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Gc 974.402 Ip6ipc 1779120
M. C.
REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01068 0962
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015
https://archive.org/details/guidetoipswichma00ipsw
pourch maco. community surce T
GUIDE
TO
Ipswich, Massachusetts
Birthplace of
American Independence
THE BIRTHPLACE OF AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE
+
1922
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V.
1279120
COME
TO
Ipswich, Massachusetts
CI LASS
INC THE BIRTHPLACE OF AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE
34
1687
The Birthplace of American Independence
By Railroad 27 miles from Boston on Boston & Maine Rail Road.
By Automobile 28 miles, State Road (Old Bay Road or Boston-Newburyport Turnpike.
104765
COMMUNITY SERVICE
SERVICE
IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS
COMMUNITY SERVICE is a modern movement which faces squarely the fact that our American communities of to-day have lost a certain unity of spirit which it is of vital importance to re-establish.
The purpose of IPSWICH COMMUNITY SERVICE is to help its citi zens use their leisure hours to the best possible advantage for themselves and others. It is an organized effort on the part of the community itself to promote the kind of activities that will enrich the lives of all, and result in better health, more happiness and a broader type of citizenship for all those who make up its inhabitants;
President Hon Geo. A. Schofield
First Vice-President
Dr.F. W. Kyes
Second Vice-President Herbert W. Mason
Treasurer William J. Riley
Executive Secretary St. Alban Kite
EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE
Hon. Geo. A. Schofield
Dr. F. W. Kyes
Herbert W. Mason
William J. Riley
Eben B. Moulton
Dr. Geo. E. MacArthur Rev. Carroll Perry Judge A. F. Welsh Joseph I. Horton M. Chas. Arthur
Miss E. G. Schollar
DIRECTORS
M. C. Arthur
James Averoff Dr. J. D. Barnev
J. Michael Burke
Ralph W. Burnham
Major J. Campbell
Chas. Canellos
Rev. Father P. J. Durcan Chas. H. Galligan
Chas. E. Goodhue
Judge G. H. W. Hayes Walter, E. . Hayward
Joseph I. Horton
Chas. G. Hull Miss Helen Kelly Chas. Lovell
Thomas R. Lord
Dr. Geo. E. MacArthur
J. Michael Lucey Mrs. Mary B. Maine
Herbert W. Mason
Mrs. Fred. A. Nason
Eben B. Moulton
Rev. Carroll Perry
Mrs.Carroll Perry
Hon Geo. A. Schofield
Miss E. G. Schollar
Henry Spaulding
Miss K. Sullivan
Mrs. W. E. Tucker
Dr. F. W. Kyes Chas. A. Mallard Arthur' Marcorelle C. Leslie Millard Harold S. Perley William J. Riley Miss Amy Stanford
Mrs. Elbert R. Titcomb Francis C. Wade
Mrs. N. Tworogowski Judge Albert F. Welsh
ERRATUM:
In regard to Old Ipswich Gaol, it has been found, since going to press, that it was built in 1652 on spot now occupied by residence of Henry S. Spaulding, Meeting House Green. Here the excentric Goody Coles and other so-called witches were detained as well as British pris- oners of war. A stone in front of present residence is the cover to the old gaol well of 1770.
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F 8444 .42
Ipswich, Mass. Community service.
Guide to Ipswich, Massachusetts, birthplace of Amer- ican independence. [Ipswich, Mass. 1922.
20 p. 224"".
"Written and ... published by Community service of Ipswich, Massa- chusetts."
SHELF CARD
Cover-title: Come to Ipswich, Massachusetts ... Contains advertising matter. Bibliography : p. 2.
1. Ipswich, Mass.
328343
22-13390
Library of Congress
Copyright A 675363
F74.16150 12:
-
This Little Guide has been written and is published by Community Service of Ipswich, Massachusetts.
It does not pretend to be complete, but it is hoped that it will be helpful to those who wish to know something about the principle places of interest in this historic town.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Ipswich in the Massachusetts Bay Colony. 1633-1917. (2 vols.)
Thomas Franklin Waters
History of Ipswich, Essex and Hamilton. 1834.
Joseph B. Felt
New England Legends and Folk Lore Samuel Adams Drake
Publication of the Ipswich Historical Society. Numbers X and XX.
The Jewett Family of America Year Book of 1912-13.
The Celebration of the Two Hundred and Fifteenth Anniversary of the In- corporation of the Town of Ipswich, Mass. 1884.
381
Copyright 1922 By Community Service of Ipswich. Massachusetts.
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1
"I love to think of old Ipswich Towne, Old Ipswich Towne in the East Countree, Whence on the tide you can float down Through the long salt grass to the wailing sea, Where the Mayflower drifted off the bar Seaworn and weary long years ago, And dared not enter but sailed away
...
Till she landed her boats in Plymouth Bay." JAMES APPLETON MORGAN.
I PSWICH has had for nearly three hundred years a story of its own, a con- tinuous self-conscious life, a record of public service and individual ex- cellence that deserves recognition. We believe all will like to know more concerning our ancient New England town, and therefore this little hand- book has been put out for the benefit of residents as well as visitors and travellers.
Each summer, thousands of thoughtful, interested people come to this historic region, and they are entitled to accurate information about the origi- nal severteenth century settlement.
We as residents have a pardonable pride in our "Ipswich Towne" and are constantly meeting people whose early family associations cluster about this charming locality and who will appreciate attempts like the following to give local color to the events and the personalities that go to make up the important material of its general history. We feel that Boston, Salem, Newburyport and Portsmouth can by no means monopolize the attention of reflective students of old colonial New England.
FOUNDING OF IPSWICH, MARCH, 1633
As early as 1608 Capt. John Smith, while on a voyage in the interest of an English Company, touched at Ipswich harbor, then known by the Indian name of Agawam. In his records he states that the natives used them kindly.
In 1633, when it became known that the French were about to make a settlement near Cape Sable, the Massachusetts Bay Colony took alarm and passed an ordinance for the founding of a plantation at Agawam, "least" as they said, "an enemy finding it void should possess it and take it from us."
The leader chosen to establish the new colony was no less a personage than John Winthrop, Jr., son of the Governor. He was ordered "to take no more out of the Bay than twelve men; the rest to be supplied by the coming of the next ships."
In the journal of Gov. Winthrop under date of Aug. 4, 1634, there is the following entry: "At the court, the new town of Agawam was named
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Ipswich, for Ipswich in England, in acknowledgment of the great honor and kindness done to our people who took shipping there."
This region was particularly fitted for tillage and the raising of cattle as the Indians had already cleared it and long used the hill slopes for plant- ing corn.
Soon after the settlement was begun, an agreement was entered into with the Indian chief, Masconnomet who sold the entire region to young Winthrop for 20 pounds sterling. The original deed, dated June 28, 1638, now in the possession of the Essex Institute, in Salem, runs in part as fol- lows:
"I, Musconominet, Sagamore of Agawam, doe by theise presents ac- knowledge to have Received of Mr. John Winthrop the some of Twenty poundes, in ful satisfacon of all the Right, property and Cleame, I have or ought to have unto all the land lying and being in the Bay of Agawam, alls Ipswich, . . . . and I doe hereby bind my self to make good the foresaid bargaine and saile unto the said John Winthrop. . . Witnesse my hand."
With the prestige that came from its being settled by the Governor's son, Ipswich early took a leading place among the towns of the Bay Colony and held it for many years. Some of the ablest and most influential men in New England lived here; Governors Thomas Dudley and Simon Bradstreet; Dep- uty Gov. Samuel Symonds; the noted school-master Ezekiel Cheever; among the prominent ministers of Ipswich were numbered John Norton, Nathaniel Rogers, Thomas Cobbet, William Hubbard, author of "History of the Indian Wars", and Nathaniel Ward, compiler of "The Body of Liberties" and author of "The Simple Cobbler of Agawam".
Worthy of especial mention is John Wise, spoken of as "The first great American democrate", who was suspended from his ministry because with John Appleton and others he took a prominent part in the Andros Remon- strance. It was because of this Remonstrance that Ipswich bears upon her seal the inscription
"THE BIRTHPLACE OF AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE, 1687"
Why, you ask, this ambitious claim of our "Ipswich Towne"? The answer is as follows: In December 1686, Sir Edmund Andros landed at Bos- ton and hastened to assume the role of Royal Governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony. One of his first acts was to pass an ordinance demanding a tax of a penny on a pound to afford him a revenue. His warrant aroused general opposition, yet it was submitted to by most of the towns, although, hereto- fore, the Colony had appropriated its own taxes according to the necessities of the moment.
In Ipswich a Town Meeting was held on Aug. 23, 1687. The night be- fore there had been a meeting of the Selectmen and other leading citizens at the house of John Appleton, Jr., at which the course of action was discussed. Constable French read the Governor's warrant. "They all agreed that this 'warrant act' for raising revenue, abridged their liberties as Englishmen."
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Next day in Town Meeting it was decided by a unanimous vote to choose a Commissioner. In the words of the original record: "They did Discourse & Conclude y' it was not ye town's Dutie any wayes to Assist y' ill Methode of Raising money wtout a Generall Asembly, wch was apparently intended by above said Sr Edmund & his Council." This was the beginning of the Amer- ican protest against TAXATION WITHOUT REPRESENTATION which finally led to INDEPENDENCE.
HOUSES AND PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST IPSWICH HISTORICAL HOUSE ALSO KNOWN AS THE JOHN WHIPPLE HOUSE
Opposite the R. R. Station .- Open daily 10 A. M. to 5 P. M. except Sundays.
This is one of the most notable houses in the United States. The exact date of its erection is unknown but all available evidence indicates that it was built before 1650, perhaps even as early as 1636. It has been called, "the best surviving example in New England of the earliest seventeenth cen- tury colonial architecture." Nowhere else will one find such superb oak beams, such solid and substantial building. Not only is the house itself one · of the finest historical monuments in the country but is also the home of the Ipswich Historical Society and has been converted into a Museum of the rarest and most interesting 17th and 18th century relics and curios. Here are to be seen ancient and spacious fireplaces, rare antique furniture, china and cooking utensils; firearms of various periods and of curious make, be sides case after case of invaluable manuscripts and early printed documents.
Among the objects of special interest may be mentioned a portrait of Rev. George Whitefield, the great preacher; the Winthrop and Saltonstall coats of arms; a copy of the famous Breeches Bible, 1615; a French musket made in Charleville, brought over by La Fayette.
The andirons in the West room are cast iron figures of Hessian troopers, those in the East room date back to 1586. There is also exhibited an auto- graph letter of the founder of Ipswich, John Winthrop, Jr.
MEETING HOUSE GREEN
This spot, one of the most historical in New England, and around which practically all the important activities of Ipswich centered, is conspicuously marked by a red Gothic church. The present edifice is the fifth erected on this site. The first, spoken of as "Ye Old Meeting House", was built in 1634 and was the ninth place of worship erected in Massachusetts Bay Colony. It was surrounded by stone walls and patrolled during services by men with muskets for fear of Indian assault. In the chapel near the church is to be seen an interesting old clock that was brought from Ipswich, England. "The Devil's Foot-print" near the entrance of the Church has much fascination for the tourist; tradition has it that His Satanic Majesty dared to enter the old Meeting House one Sunday morning but unable to stand the eloquence of one of the early divines, fled in terror to the steeple and fell to the earth.
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The spot where he left his foot-print may be seen and it is to be hoped that he never again dared to enter this sacred precinct.
On the right of the church is a tablet bearing the following inscription:
"Ipswich was settled in March, 1633. On this Hill-top the first Meeting House was built and surrounded with a stone fort. Nathaniel Ward, Nathan- iel Rogers, John Norton, William Hubbard and Thomas Cobbett were earli- est of the long line of eminent ministers. Whipping-post, stocks and prison were a few rods distant."
The site of these ancient public instruments of punishment is to-day marked by stately elms, planted by Deacon Aaron Cogswell.
*** Thus the Green is full of memories, from the earlier to the later times. Hither the hogs were driven in the morning and at the sound of the horn, blown on the Green soon after sunrise, the cows of the neighborhood were gathered that they might be driven in a herd to the public pasture lands. Great gatherings have assembled on its ledges and grassy slopes. From the ledge nearest the Meeting House, as tradition has it, Whitefield preached to thousands hushed to solemn stillness. When La Fayette was welcomed, the Meeting House was filled with the throng of citizens who paid him honor Here the militia gath-
ered for their periodic trainings Hither the people have come to worship since the beginnings of the town life, and here, the school children have found a pleasant playground for two centuries."
"No spot within our ancient township is enriched with such fragrant memories, and associations of such varied and intense interest. The early settlers set it apart for public use, and it has never ceased to be the center of the civic life of our community."
SITE OF OLD COURT HOUSE-Meeting House Green-where Daniel Webster and Rufus Choate held forth.
TREADWELL'S TAVERN-remodeled into the Agawam House, Meeting House Green. General La Fayette and his suite were entertained here Aug. 31st, 1824. Felt relates that " . he was conducted to Nat. Treadwell's Inn, where he was refreshed, and visited by some Revolutionary soldiers. He left with his suite . . . amid the benedictions of many hearts."
Passing on we find the
JOSEPH ROSS HOUSE-5 High St. It was used early in the 19th century as a lace factory, one of the first in America. About 1867 it was remodeled into the imposing looking mansion which it now is. On the many terraced slope rising back of the house, mulberry trees were planted to support the silk industry which it was hoped would prosper in Ipswich.
ANCIENT CALDWELL HOUSE-23 High St., in front of which is a boulder bearing tablet which marks the
SITE OF GOVERNOR SIMON BRADSTREET'S HOUSE. Gov. Bradstreet was (*Ipswich in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, ) Vol. I, p 422
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for 25 years an Assistant Magistrate, 10 years Chief Magistrate, and 21 years a Commissioner of the Colonial Confederacy, and "seemed", as has been said, "to concentrate in himself the dignity and wisdom of the first century of Massachusetts. . . . New England must be rich indeed in the great characters of history, if she can afford to forget so sound, so safe, so broad- minded, so sturdy a magistrate amongst her honored list as Simon Brad- street."
His wife ANN BRADSTREET was the first New England and American poetess. Here follows some of the first lines she wrote.
"To my Dear and Loving Husband:
If ever two were one, then surely we; If ever man were loved by wife, then thee; If ever wife were happy in a man, Compare with me, ye women, if you can! I prize thy love more than whole Mines of Gold, Or all the riches that the East doeth hold. My love is such that Rivers cannot quench, Nor aught but love from thee give recompense."
SITE OF GOVERNOR THOMAS DUDLEY'S HOUSE-Granite slab on High St. head of Mineral St.
Gov. Dudley was the 2nd Governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony, he was Deputy Governor 13 years, Governor 4 years and President of the Com- missioners of the United Colonies 3 years. After retiring from the Chief Magistry he came to live in Ipswich.
HIGH STREET CEMETERY contains the oldest grave stone in Essex County bearing date 1647. Martha, the young wife of John Winthrop, Jr., founder of Ipswich, also rests here. She died only a year after the settlement and probably was the first to be buried in this grave yard. Among the town notables that lie here are: Col. Samuel Appleton, 1696; Andrew Burley, 1718; Dr. Philemon Deane, 1716; Major General Daniel Dennison; Major General Michael Farley, 1789; Dr. Joseph Manning, 1784; Rev. Nathanial Rogers, 1775; Col. Francis Wainwright, 1711; Dr. Samuel Wallis, 1728, and Major John Whipple, 1722.
NORTON-COBBETT HOUSE-8 East St.
John Norton and Thomas Cobbett, two of the famous ministers of Ips- wich, lived here. Unlike most of the interesting old houses of New England this early specimen remains as it was built, having been untampered with . by succe ding generations. Note the overhanging second story.
SITE OF OLD IPSWICH GAOL-on grounds of present House of Correc- tion, Green St. Present edifice built in 1813 took place of old stone gaol erected before the Revolution in which British prisoners of war were kept. It was one of the first of its type in New England and probably in this coun- try.
It might be appropriate to state here, that Ipswich, like the other New England towrs was influenced by the prevailing witch-craft delusions. Many
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were convicted but happily, with the exception of Elizabeth How, none were condemned.
Because of its central location, Ipswich was made a Shire town; the Supreme Court as well as the Probate Court held its sessions here. Quarters now used by the "Agawam Lodge I. O. O. F. No. 52", next to Public Library, once served for the Probate Court.
EMERSON HOUSE-Turkey Shore Rd. opposite Green St. Bridge. Thom- s Emerson, ancestor of Ralph Waldo Emerson bought the site in 1638 and built the present quaint edifice some time before 1648. It is now owned by the well-known artist, Arthur W. Dow.
How TAVERN-Cor. County and Poplar Sts. (present residence of Dr. W. E. Tucker). In Revolutionary times it was owned and kept by Susanna Homans, sister of Joseph How. In 1789, Wa hington lunched at this Inn. He speaks of it in his diary as follows: "Friday, October 30th 1789. From this place, (Beverly) with escorts of Horse, I passed on to Ipswich, about ten miles; at the entrance of which I was met and welcomed by the Select- men, and received by a regm't of Militia." Mr. Felt, writing in 1834, while the memory of these stirring events was still fresh, remarks :- "George Washington . . . is escorted into town, receives a short address; dines at the Inn, then kept by Mrs. Homans .
MONUMENT WITH TABLETS-in front of South Church, Cor. County and So. Main Sts. This monument was erected by the Ipswich Historical Society in 1896 and points out the following places of historical interest.
(1) Site of dwelling house and school of Ezekiel Cheever, first mas- ter of Grammar School.
Sites of residences of
(2) Rev. Nathaniel Ward.
(3) Richard Saltonstall and Rev. Nathaniel Rogers.
(4) Site of first Meeting House of South Parish 1747-1837.
(5) Location of Rev. William Hubbard's House (Pastor of Ipswich 1656-1704) .
(6) Spot by which marched The Expedition against Quebec, with Benedict Arnold in command and Aaron Burr in the ranks, Sept. 15, 1775.
SITE OF OLD GRAMMAR SCHOOL, FOUNDED 1642-Argilla Rd. where Ezekiel Cheever, first recorded school-master of Ipswich taught (1650-1661) . He later founded the famous Boston Latin School. His Latin grammar, "The Acciderce" was used for more than a century in New England schools.
SITE OF REV. NATHANIEL WARD'S HOUSE-County Rd. & Ward St. Min- ister in Ipswich 1634-1637; jurist, scholar and author of "The Simpler Cob- bler of Agawam" also "BODY OF LIBERTIES" (code of laws adopted by town of Ipswich in 1641). It has been called: "THE FOUNDATION STONE OF OUR STATES INDEPENDENT SOVEREIGNTY."
SITE OF RICHARD SALTONSTALL'S HOUSE-Near Nat. Ward's house.
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Richard Saltonstall was a brilliant and honored resident of Ipswich in the early days and was the first on record to protest against slavery. Waters says: "In 1645, . . . single handed and alone, he lifted up his voice like a trumpet in the Great and General Court, when Capt. James Smith, master of the ship Rainbow brought into the country two negroes kidnapped from the Guinea coast. He denounced this hideous act of stealing these poor blacks as contrary to the law of God and of the country."
COLONEL NATHANIEL WADE'S HOUSE built in 1727. Cor. County Rd. and Ward St. From the 17th of June until Labor Day this house is, "A home by the way-side for lunch and rest." Col. Wade trained the original Company of Minute Men in the attic. and a copy of the document drawn up by them can be seen. Col. Wade's regiment, which included many Ipswich men, was stationed at West Point at the time of Arnold's treason. Washington ordered Col. Wade to succeed Arnold and the original order, in the hand-writing of the Commander-in-Chief, quoted in part below, is still a treasured heirloom of the Wade family.
Head-Quarters, Robinson's House 25 Sept. 1780
Sir :
General Arnold is gone to the enemy. I just now received a line from him, including one to Mrs. Arnold, dated on board the Vulture. From this circumstance, and Col. Lamb's being detatched on some business the command of the garrison for the present devolves on you. I request you to be as vigilant as possible
I am Sir, your mo. obt. servt.
(signed) Geo. Washington. (For facsimile see Ipswich in Massachusetts Bay Colony. Vol. II, p 347.)
WINTHROP-BURNHAM HOUSE-on the south side of the river on Essex Rd. This house is supposed to have been built by John Winthrop, Jr., in 1633, where he lived with his family until he moved to Connecticut in 1635. Later the place came into the possession of the Burnham family and contin- ued in their possession for more than two hundred years.
Ross TAVERN built in 1692-On So. Main St. next to Stone Bridge. One of the most interesting landmarks in Ipswich, being used as a tavern for many years.
CHOATE BRIDGE-1764-first stone arch bridge built in America. It . is commonly known as "The Old Stone Bridge" and crosses the Ipswich River on So. Main St.
*"Col. Choate's name was associated with the bridge, and was probably the moving party in the great undertaking. A tale that his horse was teth- ered near by, when the wooden arches were removed, that he might mount and ride if the popular belief that the bridge would not stand was realized, may be consigned to the limbo of idle traditions."
*(Ipswich in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, Vol. I, p 445.)
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The following "lines were composed by Mr. Clark, a blind man (of Rowley ) in 1764, and recited by him on the bridge in the presence of Colo- nel Choate and several other persons, before the ground walls were done, although the bridge was so far finished as to be passable. Among the spec- tators was Nathaniel Dutch, then a lad, who heard the verses recited, and repeated them from memory, December, 1831, previous to which time it is not known that they were ever penned or printed."
Behold this bridge of lime and stone! The like before was never known For beauty and magnificence, Considering the small expense.
How it excells what was expected,
Upon the day it was projected!
When faithful men are put in trust,
They'll not let all the money rust.
But some advance for public good
Is by this fabric understood;
And after this it will be wrote
In honor of brave Colonel Chonte.
It was his wisdom built the same, And added lustre to his fame, That filled this country with renown, And did with honor Ipswich crown.
IPSWICH SEMINARY-15 No. Main St. Incorporated on Feb. 28, 1828 This was the first endowed seminary for women in America and the first. it is said, to give diplomas to its graduates. It became immediately famou- under the direction of its two associate teachers, Miss Zilpah P. Grant and MARY LYON. (The latter afterwards founded Mount Holyoke Seminary. )
COLONEL JOHN APPLETON'S HOUSE, built in 1707-Market St. Sq. N. E. Cor. Through remodeling and additions it has a modern look. John Apple ton was one of the leaders of the Ipswich Remonstrance against the taxation measures of Governor Andros. He was fined fifty pounds sterling and made to serve a jail sentence of five months because of the courage with which he announced his convictions regarding the illegality of taxation without representation.
MEMORIAL HALL. On Central Strect, just after passing through Mar ket Square on the right, will be seen the new Memorial Hall. This buildin: is constructed of brick and is 100 feet long by 50 feet wide. The site was given to the town by one of the summer residents, Moritz B. Philipp, Esq. of New York City. At the Town Meeting in 1921, it was voted to build a Memorial Hall in memory of the soldiers, sailors and marines who served to the credit of Ipswich in all wars. The cost of the building will be ap- proximately $52,000. It is expected that the building will be completed by June 1, 1922. The people of Ipswich, justly proud of the glorious record
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