Peerless Alaska, our cache near the pole, Part 19

Author: Hallock, Charles, 1834-1917
Publication date: 1908
Publisher: New York : Broadway publishing company
Number of Pages: 266


USA > Alaska > Peerless Alaska, our cache near the pole > Part 19


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19


This is destined within two years to be the history of all the transportation lines leading to going mines of whatever sort-coal, gold, copper or tin. Railroads now building and planned for central Alaska, of which 300 miles had been completed in 1907, according to Gov. Hoggatt's annual report, comprise 2,000 miles of track. From Skagway to White Pass is the most important. This has 20 miles in American territory and 92 miles in British-America. There are a number of short roads about Nome, and one at Yakutat on the southern coast. At Fairbanks there is the Tanana Mines railway, and plans are being pushed along the Copper River valley. Starting from Valdez, there are two roads partly built, a main line to St. Michael and a branch to Eagle, the


210


'PEERLESS 'ALASKA.


latter following up the Copper River valley, thence over an imperceptible divide to the Tenana River, thence to the headwaters of Forty-Mile River and down to the Yukon, the distance being 115 miles, against 594 via Skagway and Canadian territory. Valdez, on Cook Inlet, is the only feasible starting point, geographically, for an all-American route to the interior of Alaska. It is the distributing point already for seven mail routes. Its post-office is of the Presidential class. Military telegraph lines extend to all Yukon and Tenana River points, and to Cape Nome (wireless and cable from St. Michael across Morton Sound), and the overland mail routes, soon to be followed by the railroad already begun, have dog, horse, and reindeer winter service, and heated stages running over across country which only a few years ago was a terra incognita except to Indians, trap- pers, and fur hunters. Many hundreds of interior post roads, wagon roads, and trails with bridges, have been opened up within three years under the direction of the Board of Road Commissioners, authorized by Congress in 1905. Outfitting points for miners have been removed from Seattle to Valdez and Juneau, so that the cost is little more than wholesale prices with freight added, and the buyer is saved wharfage, care of shipping, etc.


Under the improved situation gold mining in the inte- rior is stripped of much of its former hardship, and the influx of gold seekers has greatly multiplied. There are at least 8,000 miners distributed over the expansive Yukon gold region and 12,000 in the Nome district throughout the Seward Peninsula. A dozen "cities" have grown up at the mining centers, of which Circle City, Nome, Val- dez, Eagle City, Seward, and Fairbanks are the chief. Nome has a summer population of several thousand, and a three-story 80-room hotel with all modern equipments. St. Michael has 4,000 residents with large warehouses and hotels to accommodate the miners, and spacious warehouses, barracks, and officers' quarters, and other buildings for the U. S. military post. The government has eight military stations in Alaska, namely, at Dyea, Wrangell, Circle City, St. Michael, Rampart City, Pyra- mid Harbor, Sitka, and on the military road north of Valdez. In the matter of coast navigation the govern- ment has provided aids and appliances so liberally, light- houses, buoys, fog horns, tripods, and the like, that Gov.


21I


ALASKA OF TO-DAY.


Hoggatt asks for a separate lighthouse district for Alaska. So far as southeastern Alaska is concerned, the railroads have not come, because the coast is so easily accessible by the sea and the channels so readily navi- gated that, in the very nature of the case, the sea has furnished the easiest and most economical way of ap- proach.


It does not take long to move a large migration and occupy a territory where there is sufficient inducement in sight. Okla'ıoma passed from nonentity to statehood in ten years. Kansas filled up in an equal time. Utah was settled by 40,000 people in ten years. Ten thousand per- sons had moved to California one year after gold was discovered there. Fifty thousand people have moved into the Arctic Circle within ten years. One hundred and fifty thousand into the subarctic wheat fields of the Canadian northwest during the five years past.


Mining on the Seward Peninsula is no longer restricted to a few summer months. Subterranean placers belong- ing to an ancient geological period have been discovered under the tundra back of Nome, between the coast and the mountains, where men can mine the whole year round with a twelve-foot roof of frozen earth over their heads, quite comfortable out of the surface cold, and working by electric light. Copper and tin mines are being worked in regions wide apart. Extensive coal fields are being opened out. Petroleum, gypsum, silver, lead, and marble are possible assets, and railroads are hastening to reach them. All known modern contrivances to facilitate work are in use. In the days of the early prospectors everything was crude and done by hand. Now there are gravity railroads and electric and steam tramways, compressed-air drills, snowsheds, protecting apparatus, and work is prosecuted in the drifts and tun- nels the whole year round. Gold is everywhere, but it is truth to say that the only interior mines which it pays to work pending transportation are the high-grade placers such as those on the Shushitna, Chisna, Slate, Nizina, and Bremner. Anticipating the railroads, the Seward Co-operative Telephone Company have constructed last year 600 miles of double wires from Nome to Candle City, and from Nome to Kougarok via Salmon Lake, and thence to Teller and the tin region, and were planning to run a line to Penny River and eastward. The phones


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PEERLESS ALASKA.


are of the automatic central battery system, which do not require the user to "ring central." Alaska is always up to date in these days. She does nothing by halves.


Until a few years ago all Yukon miners used to drop down the river to St. Michael or clamber over the tough "divide" into Juneau and spent their dust at Dick Wil- loughby's or one or another of the semi-reputable resorts of the town, in the weary effort to while away the tedious winter. Those who have been to the camps know how it is themselves. But now there are no more dives and "Nips and Tucks" and "Damfinos" in Juneau. Aleck Choquette, King Lear, J. B. Whitford, McFarland, Pow- ers, Starr, Vanderbilt, Lynch, and the other old-timers who located the place under the original name of Harri- sonburg would not recognize it now. Everything is po- liced and proper, and the Klootchmen of years ago, who were the prey of adventurers, are now the wards of the sisters and missionaries, and the foot that slipped on the side hill then is now stayed by substantial sidewalks. Be- sides, there is a veritable bishop (Rowe), with his own diocese and an assistant bishop right there in Juneau, with a rectory and church edifice, with stained-glass win- dows and everything in keeping. Every churchman knows what this means. They all know that when the flock increases the supervision widens and extends, and that licentiousness and barbarism disappear when the totem of St. Hubert is held aloft; for the canonized churchman and the knights of St. Hubert are all in close communion together. But you should see the good Dr. Rowe on his annual visitation! His diocese embraces a semi-continental area, and a continuous circuit of 10,000 miles by water lines which formerly were traversed mainly by canoes, was then a mere episode in the career of his busy Christian life.


I remember when I first went to Alaska, in 1885, and took a venture in the first fissure prospect that was de- veloped at Lake Mountain, near Sitka, how individual- ized each dusky Siwash was at the time, and how he gave imposing "potlatches," whose cost can only be esti- mated, and buried ill-starred slaves under the four foun- dation posts of his new slab palace by way of a house- warming! Now, to-day, within sight of the spot where the dead were incinerated on funeral piles, the good and reverend Sheldon Jackson has no less than fourteen large


213


ALASKA OF TO-DAY.


and well-appointed edifices, two and three stories high, included in his Presbyterian Seminary at Sitka, whose dusky uniformed pupils are builders of model dwelling- houses and artificers in all kinds of handiwork. And so it goes on steadily, progressively, and rapidly.


No geographical division of the United States has im- proved in such ratio as Alaska. The old régime has been totally superseded, and the beneficence of the new dis- pensation has reached to its remotest confines and inner- most parts. The other day a returned lay teacher an- nounced a lecture in one of our chief Western cities, and collected a numerous audience to be informed how badly the natives of the Golden Province District smelled of fish-oil, and what barbarous crudities cropped out all along the line of their progress since the date of the ces- sion ; and when I ventured to hint in the presence of her credulous hearers that she must have been chiefly em- ployed at Kilisnoo (which is a porpoise-oil factory with a plant costing $100,000), she would fain have had us all believe that the present population of southeastern Alaska were little better than the Eskimos of Kotzebue Sound, who live on blubber and sea-oil, chiefly, because other provender is hard to get-or was until the benificent Sheldon Jackson imported reindeer from Siberia to keep the feeble spark of life aglow until times should better and every wearer of the sealskin kamelik secure a grub stake on the coast.


And what do we see to-day in Alaska as the result of the past twenty-five years' work, not to hark back fur- ther? What do we discover ethically as well as econom- ically? Why, there are no less than fifty mission sta- tions, and as many mission schools, operated by a dozen different evangelical denominations, besides half a hun- dred government public schools, working harmoniously together in the common cause of philanthropy, covering coast and interior alike, from the Aleutian chain to the land's end in the Arctic Circle, with their dark-skinned pupils dressed in the neat and telling garb of modern civilization, and the faces of every child and unsophisti- cated adult beaming with the consciousness of enlarged intelligence.


And development has taken place equally on all indus trial lines. Three lines of well-appointed freight and


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PEERLESS ALASKA.


passenger steamers ply regularly to trading posts and populous towns on the Upper Yukon. Several local lines of coastwise steamers connect Seattle and intermediate ports with Unalaska. Regular communication is kept up between St. Michael's in Bering Sea and San Francisco ; and a regular monthly mail service over a winter route is maintained with stations within the Arctic Circle as far north as Point Barrow, where there is a life-saving post as well as a school and mission. Steamboats tra- verse the interior lakes and rivers. They run up the Kuskokwim 500 miles. Far up on all the principal water- ways and tributaries there are schools, stores, and mis- sions; all the old barbarism abolished and savage tradi- tions obsolete! And the whites who are seeking ven- tures in the province keep pace with those in the States, æsthetically as well as commercially. There are summer yachting excursions to the Aleutian Islands, diurnal vis- itors to the Hoonah Hot Springs. Alpine clubs and mountain-climbers prospect the supreme altitudes of the Fairweather group and the intricacies of the glacial fields. Summer residents and mine operators pass their winters in the east and south, Seattle, New York, and Florida. The latest fashions prevail in all the principal coastwise towns.


Juneau, the metropolis, boasts a theatre and opera- house, several churches, first-class hotels, a hospital heated by steam, a fire department, telephone service, an electric light and power company, a woolen mill which manufactures suitings, steam laundries, hot and cold baths, a public reading-room and library, a high school and academy, a kindergarten, and a complement of doc- tors, dentists, and attorneys. Juneau has a shipyard, an iron foundry, bank, two newspapers well edited, a monthly illustrated magazine, millinery establishments, breweries, a dramatic club, an athletic society. She has meat markets and seasonable vegetables home grown, plank sidewalks and macadamized wagon roads, spacious warehouses, and docks 700 feet long. At Douglas Island, across Gastineaux Channel, are the famous Treadwell mines and smelters. In all respects this neighborhood is fully up to date. Already in Alaska there are twenty- five daily and weekly newspapers published. Everywhere the government, which was so slow to "take en" at the


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ALASKA OF TO-DAY.


outset, keeps pace with private enterprise, and the two go hand in hand, working out the salvation of the people, natives and new-comers alike, and grinding out wealth like a corn-sheller. Nearly all of its vast area of 600,000 square miles is in process of development. The total gold output since the purchase is stated at $II0,348,000.00. Copper, coal, fish, lumber, and fur add another great sum. Verily "Our Cache near the Pole" is a bonanza which is likely to hold out for generations to come.


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PEERLESS ALASKA.


APPENDIX A.


GAME LEGISLATION FOR ALASKA.


A BILL to amend an Act entitled "An Act for the pro- tection of game in Alaska, and for other purposes," approved June 7, 1902.


Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representa- tives of the United States of America in Congress as- sembled, That an Act entitled "An Act for the protection of game in Alaska, and for other purposes," approved June 7, 1902, be amended to read as follows :


"From and after the passage of this Act the wanton destruction of wild game animals or wild birds, except eagles, ravens and cormorants, the destruction of nests and eggs of such birds, or the killing of any wild birds, except eagles and ravens, other than game birds, for the purpose of killing the same or the skins or any part thereof, except as hereinafter provided, is hereby pro- hibited.


"Game Defined .- The term 'game animals' shall in- clude deer, moose, caribou, sheep, mountain goats, brown bear, sea lions and walrus. The term 'game birds' shall include water fowl, commonly known as ducks, geese, brant, and swans; shore birds, commonly known as plover, snipe, and curlew, and the several species of grouse and ptarmigan.


"Exemption .- Nothing in this Act shall affect any law now in force in Alaska relating to the fur seal, sea otter, or any fur-bearing animal, or prevent the killing of any game animal or bird for food or clothing at any time by natives, or by miners or explorers, when in need of food ; but the game animals or birds so killed during close season shall not be shipped or sold.


"Sec. 2. Season .- That it shall be unlawful for any person in Alaska to kill any wild game animals or birds, except during the season hereinafter provided : North of


217


APPENDIX A.


latitude 62 degrees, brown bear may be killed at any time ; moose, caribou, sheep, walrus, and sea lions from August first to December tenth, both inclusive; south of latitude 62 degrees, moose, caribou and sheep, from August 20th to December 3Ist, both inclusive; brown bear front October Ist to July Ist, both inclusive; deer and mount- tain goats from April Ist to February Ist, both inclusive ; caribou on the Kenai Peninsula before August 12th, 1912; grouse, ptarmigan, shore birds, and water-fowl from September Ist to March Ist, both inclusive: Pro- vided, That the Secretary of Agriculture is hereby au- thorized, whenever he shall deem it necessary for the preservation of game animals or birds, to make and pub- lish rules and regulations prohibiting the sale of any game in any locality modifying the close seasons herein- before established, providing different close seasons for different parts of Alaska, placing further restrictions and limitations on the killing of such animals or birds in any given locality, or prohibiting killing entirely for a period not exceeding two years in such locality.


"Sec. 3. Number .- That it shall be unlawful for any person to kill any female or yearling moose or caribou or for any one person to kill in any one year more than the number specified of each of the following animals: Two moose, one walrus or sea lion, three caribou, three sheep, three brown bear, or to kill or have in his posses- sion in any one day more than twenty-five grouse or ptarmigan or twenty-five shore birds or waterfowl.


"Guns and Boats .- That it shall be unlawful for any person at any time to hunt with dogs any of the game animals specified in this Act; to use a shotgun larger than No. 10 gauge, or any gun other than that which can be fired from the shoulder ; or to use steam launches or any boats other than those propelled by oars or pad- dles in the pursuit of game, animals or birds.


"Sec. 4. Sale .- That it shall be unlawful for any per- son or persons at any time to sell or offer for sale any hides, skins, or heads of any game animals or game birds in Alaska, or to sell, offer for sale, or purchase, or offer to purchase, any game animals or game birds, or parts thereof, during the time when the killing of such ani- mals or birds is prohibited: Provided, That it shall be lawful for dealers having in possession game animals or game birds legally killed during the open season to dis-


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PEERLESS ALASKA.


pose of the same within fifteen days after the close of said season.


"Sec. 5. Licenses .- That it shall be unlawful for any non-resident of Alaska to hunt any of the game animals protected by this Act, except deer and goats, without first obtaining a hunting license, or to hunt on the Kenai Peninsula without a registered guide, and such license shall not be transferable and shall be valid only during the calendar year in which issued. Each applicant shall pay a fee of one hundred dollars for such license, unless he be a citizen of the United States, in which case he shall pay a fee of fifty dollars. Each license shall be accompanied by coupons authorizing the ship- ment of two moose if killed north of latitude 62 degrees, four deer, three caribou, three sheep, three goats, and three brown bear, or any part of said animals, but no more of any one kind.


"A resident of Alaska desiring to export heads or trophies of any of the game animals mentioned in this Act shall first obtain a shipping license, for which he shall pay a fee of forty dollars, permitting the shipment of heads or trophies of one moose, if killed north of latitude 62 degrees, four deer, two caribou, two sheep, two goats, and two brown bears, but no more of any one kind; or a shipping license, for which he shall pay a fee of ten dollars, permitting the shipment of a single head or trophy of caribou or sheep; or a shipping license, for which he shall pay a fee of five dollars, per- mitting the shipment of a single head or trophy of any goat, deer, or brown bear. Any person wishing to ship moose killed south of latitude 62 degrees must first obtain a special shipping license, for which he shall pay a fee of one hundred and fifty dollars, permitting the shipment of one moose, or any part thereof. Not more than one general license and two special moose licenses shall be issued to any one person in one year: Pro- vided, That before any trophy shall be shipped from Alaska under the provisions of this Act the person desir- ing to make such shipment shall first make and file with the customs office at the port where such shipment is to be made an affidavit to the effect that he has not violated any of the provisions of this Act; that the trophy which he desires to ship has not been bought or purchased and has not been sold and is not being shipped for the purpose


219


APPENDIX A.


of being sold, and that he is the owner of the trophy which he desires to ship, and if the trophy is that of moose, whether the animal from which it was taken was killed north or south of latitude 62 degrees; Provided, further, That any resident of Alaska prior to September Ist, 1908, may without permit or license ship any head or trophy of any of the game animals herein mentioned upon filing an affidavit with the customs office at the port where such shipment is to be made that the animal from which said head or trophy was taken was killed prior to the passage of this Act. Any affidavit required by the provisions of this Act may be subscribed and sworn to before any customs officer or before any officer competent to administer an oath.


"The Governor of Alaska is hereby authorized to issue licenses for hunting and shipping big game. On issuing a license he shall require the applicant to state whether the heads or trophies to be obtained or shipped under said license will pass through the ports of entry at Seattle, Washington, Portland, Oregon, or San Francisco, Cali- fornia, and he shall forthwith notify the collector of customs at the proper port entry as to the name of the holder of the license and the name and address of the consignee. All proceeds from licenses, except one dollar from each fee, which shall be retained by the clerk issu- ing the license to cover the cost of printing and issue, shall be paid into a game protection fund and shall be expended under the direction of the Governor for the employment of wardens or the payment of other expenses for the protection of game in Alaska. And the Gov- ernor shall annually make a detailed and itemized report to the Secretary of Agriculture, in which he shall state the number and kind of license issued, the money re- ceived, and how the same was expended, which report shall also include a full statement of all trophies ex- ported and all animals and birds exported for any pur- pose.


"And the Governor of Alaska is further authorized to employ game wardens, to make regulations for the regis- tration and employment of guides, and fix the rates for licensing guides and rates of compensation for guiding. Every person applying for a guide license shall at the time of making such application, make and file with the person issuing such license an affidavit to the effect that


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PEERLESS ALASKA.


he will obey all the conditions of this Act and of the regulations thereunder, that he will not violate any of the game laws or regulations of Alaska, and that he will report all violations of such laws and regulations that come to his knowledge. Any American citizen or native of Alaska, of good character, upon compliance with the requirements of this Act, shall be entitled to a guide license. Any guide who shall fail or refuse to report such violations by the person employing him, or who shall himself violate any of the laws or regulations, shall have his license revoked, and in addition shall be liable to the penalty provided in Section 7 of this Act, and shall be ineligible to act as guide for a period of five years from the date of conviction.


"Sec. 6. That it shall be unlawful for any persons, firm, or corporation, or their officers or agents, to de- liver to any common carrier, or for the owner, agent, or master of any vessel, or for any other person, to receive for shipment or have in possession with intent to ship out of Alaska, any wild birds, except eagles and ravens, or parts thereof, or any heads, hides, or carcasses of cari- bou, deer, moose, mountain sheep, or mountain goats, or parts thereof, unless said heads, hides, or carcasses are accompanied by the required license or coupon and by a copy of the affidavit required by Section 5 of this Act: Provided, That nothing in this Act shall be construed to prevent the collection of specimens for scientific purposes, the capture or shipment of live animals and birds for ex- hibition or propagation, or the export from Alaska of specimens under permit from the Secretary of Agricul- ture, and under such restrictions and limitations as he may prescribe and publish.


"It shall be the duty of the collector of customs at Seattle, Portland, and San Francisco, to keep strict ac- count of all consignments of game animals received from Alaska, and no consignment of game shall be entered until due notice thereof has been received from the Gov- ernor of Alaska or the Secretary of Agriculture, and found to agree with the name and address on the ship- ment. In case consignments arrive without licenses they shall be detained for sixty days, and if a license be not then produced said consignment shall be forfeited to the United States and shall be delivered by the Collector of


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APPENDIX A.


Customs to the United States Marshal of the district for such disposition as the court may direct.


"Sec. 7. Penalties .- That any person violating any of the provisions of this Act or any of the regulations pro- mulgated by the Secretary of Agriculture or the Gov- ernor of Alaska, shall be deemed guilty of a misde- meanor, and upon conviction thereof shall forfeit to the United States all game or birds in his possession, and all guns, traps, nets, or boats, used in killing or cap- turing said game or birds, and shall be punished for each offense by a fine of not more than two hundred dollars or imprisonment not more than three months, or by both such fine and imprisonment, in the discretion of the court. Any person making any false or untrue statements in any affidavit required by this Act shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and upon conviction thereof shall forfeit to the United States all trophies in his possession, and shall be punished by a fine in any sum not more than two hundred dollars or imprison- ment not more than three months, or by both such fine and imprisonment, in the discretion of the court.


"Enforcement .- It is hereby made the duty of all mar- shals and deputy marshals, collectors or deputy collectors of customs, all officers of revenue cutters, and all game wardens to assist in the enforcement of this Act. Any marshal, deputy marshal, or warden in or out of Alaska may arrest without warrant any person found violating any of the provisions of this Act or any of the regula- tions herein provided, and may seize any game, birds, or hides, and any traps, nets, guns, boats, or other parapher- nalia used in the capture of such game or birds and found in the possession of said person in or out of Alaska, and any collector or deputy collector of customs, or warden, or licensed guide, or any person authorized in writing by a marshal shall have the power above pro- vided to arrest any persons found violating this Act or said regulations and seize said property without warrant to keep and deliver the same to a marshal or a deputy marshal. It shall be the duty of the Secretary of the Treasury, upon request of the Governor or Secretary of Agriculture, to aid in carrying out the provisions of this Act.


"Sec. 8. That all Acts or parts of Acts in conflict with the provisions of this Act are hereby repealed."


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PEERLESS ALASKA.


APPENDIX B.


HOMESTEAD ENTRIES IN ALASKA.


By T. J. Donohoe, Attorney, Valdez.


Homestead entries of public lands in Alaska may be made under the provisions of an act of Congress ap- proved March 3, 1903, extending the homestead laws and providing for a right of way for railroads in the District of Alaska.


This act provides that a citizen of the United States may, under the provisions of the homestead laws of the United States, not in conflict with the provisions of this act, enter 320 acres of the unoccupied and unappropri- ated non-mineral public lands of Alaska; that no entry shall be allowed extending more than one hundred and sixty rods along the shore of any navigable water. If any of the land settled upon is unsurveyed, it must be located in a rectangular form not more than one mile in length and located by north and south lines run accord- ing to the true meridian, and the location so made shall be marked upon the ground by permanent monuments at each of the four corners thereof, so that the boundaries may be readily traced. The record of said location shall within ninety days from the date of settlement be filed for record in the recording district in which the land is situated. Said record shall contain the name of the set- tler, the date of settlement, and such a description of the land by reference to some natural object as will identify the same.


If at the expiration of the time required by law the public surveys have not been extended over the land located, the locator may secure patent for the same by procuring at his own expense a survey of the land, which must be made by a deputy surveyor. When the survey is approved by the surveyor general, the same procedure


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APPENDIX B.


is followed as in soldiers' additional certified rights, in addition to which the settler must furnish the required proof of residence and cultivation. Patent may be ob- tained without the payment of any purchase price or other charges except the ordinary office fees and commis- sions of the register and receiver. Should the settler so desire, he may commute under Section 2301, Revised Statutes, one hundred and sixty acres of his entry by paying, in addition to the fees and commissions as in final homesteads, the price of one dollar and a quarter per acre.


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PEERLESS ALASKA.


APPENDIX C.


Table showing rate of wages and cost of living.


Rate of wages


District.


Mechanics.


Miners.


Laborers.


Cost of living per day.


Ketchikan


$5.00


$3.50 to $4.00


$3.00 to $3,50


$1.00


Juneau


5,00


3.50


3.00


1.00


Orca


5.00


3.00


1.00


Seward


5,00


2.75


1.00


Valdez


5.00


3.50 to 4,00


3.00 to 3.50


1.00


Fairbanks


15.00


7.50


7.00


2.50


Nome


10.00


6.25


5.00


1.25


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