USA > Arizona > History of Arizona, Vol. III > Part 4
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"This camp Clark, of which I speak in this letter, was the first capital of Arizona Ter- ritory. It was located at the point now known as Little Chino Valley, and remained there for three or four months before it was moved to Prescott. The 'Arizona Miner' was first published at this camp. The press had been brought out by R. C. McCormick, then secre- tary of the Territory and afterwards governor, and delegate to Congress. The 'Miner,' how- ever, was edited by a man named Hand, the first numbers being printed on colored mapping paper. It was about a 12x20 single sheet and de- voted principally to furthering the political am- bitions of Secretary McCormick."
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CHAPTER III. TRAVELS OF GOVERNOR GOODWIN'S PARTY.
LETTERS OF JONATHAN RICHMOND, ONE OF THE PARTY-ORGANIZATION OF TERRITORY -- AR- RIVAL AT FORT WHIPPLE - FORMAL PRO- CEEDINGS.
Governor Goodwin's party left Fort Larnard (Larned) in Nebraska, on October 15th, 1863. One of the members of his party was Jonathan Richmond, who came to Arizona under the promise from Judge Howell, that he would make him clerk of his court. This young man was a native of Grand Rapids, Michigan ; was educated at a military school in New England; spent a year in Oriental waters on a merchantman from Boston; served two years in the Navy during the Civil War, and, after a short residence in Arizona, finally located and spent the balance of his life on a ranch in Shawnee County, Kan- sas. To Miss Rebecca L. Richmond, a relative of Jonathan, Arizona is indebted for the follow- ing letters which describe the course of the Governor's party from Fort Larned, Nebraska, to Fort Whipple, and happenings along the way :
"Fort Larned, Kansas, "Tuesday, Oct. 13th, 1863. "My dear Mother :
"We arrived here on Sunday about five p. m., and camped about a mile east of the Fort on a small creek (or mud hole rather) called Cow Creek. We found encamped here a train of twenty-eight wagons, drawn by two hundred and eighty oxen, and one company of Mo. Cavalry as an escort. They left Leavenworth a week
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before we did and arrived here Saturday, when they were ordered to wait until our arrival here in order that we might move together, the In- dians being very troublesome beyond here. There are now camped within a stone's throw of us, five hundred Indians who have lately arrived from the north of Texas. They are a savage looking tribe; the greater part are entirely naked, others being covered with pieces of buffalo skin. They have but very few guns; their principal weapons, both for game and war- fare, being the bow and arrow. There are some among the tribe that talk our language fluently. About sunset every evening we go to see them shoot, putting up as an inducement, a piece of silver at about twenty rods distant, which will be brought down and claimed by one of the yellow skins at the second or third shot. They have been very inquisitive since our arrival, hav- ing made many inquiries as to our strength, number of soldiers, arms, etc. The Major com- manding our escort, (i. e., Co. 'I,' 11th Mo. Cavalry, Co. 'H' 4th Mo. Cavalry), is very strict in his issue of orders and in having a strong guard at night. We should have proceeded on our journey to-day, but two of the soldiers in an attempt to desert, were captured, and are to be tried by summary court-martial to-day, (thus our detention). On Monday, 5th, we broke camp at Fort Riley, and, on Tuesday, we saw the first buffalo, which, to our disappointment, on arriving near, proved to be a tame one which was feeding with other cattle. On Wednesday saw a small buffalo calf. One of the soldiers separated it from a tame herd of cattle with which it was grazing, and killed it. Late in the
JONATHAN RICHMOND.
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afternoon, just before camping, one of the sol- diers in the advance dismounted by the roadside to light his pipe. After accomplishing the feat he threw the match down, and in less than a minute the prairie south of the road was a run- ning fire. The wind was blowing fresh from the N. W. at the time, and the fire was not long in reaching and destroying the house, barn, out- buildings and six large stacks of hay belonging to a poor farmer living about a mile distant. About an hour after camping, the farmer ap- peared in camp, stating that he had lost every- thing. We went to work and soon collected five hundred dollars which we tendered him.
"On Thursday we routed a drove of fifty- seven buffalo, and in the lapse of an hour four lay dead, and were fast losing flesh in the shape of roasts, steaks, etc. On that night the buffalo meat over the camp fires scented the air for miles around.
"On Friday we had the good luck to kill three more, which has supplied us with buffalo meat for the trip. It is sliced up into small steaks and hung in the wagon to dry, when it is eaten raw or cooked, according to taste. We shall be out of the buffalo country tomorrow, but shall have abundance of game, such as antelope, deer, etc. Prairie chickens we have not had for over a week.
"The country through which we have come thus far is a vast prairie, not a tree to be seen for miles, a few only on the borders of some creek. Most of the grass along the road has been burned by the Indians in order to keep the buffalo off the track of the white man. We apprehend a great deal of trouble with the Indians between 4
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here and the Raton mountains, and are making great preparations for a strong resistance. The ox train which accompanied us from here to Santa Fe, is loaded with guns and ammunition for the Regts. they intend raising there on our arrival. The trains combined will make sixty- eight wagons, three companies of Cavalry, and about seventy teamsters, besides our party of eighteen.
"Give much love to all.
"From your son, " JONATHAN.
"P. S .- This is written in my tent on the bot- tom of a pail, and I trust you will excuse errors. Has Father written Mr. Wrightson ?
"Please ask Mary to call on Mrs. Almy for me, and explain why I did not call as I promised. Mary may give her one of my ambrotypes."
"Fort Lyon (late Wise), Colorado, "Tuesday, Oct. 27, 1863. "Dear Father :
"I wrote from Fort Larned, giving a sketch of our travels thus far, and I now propose to give an account of our long stretch of two hundred and fifty miles from Larned to our present camp.
"On Thursday, Oct. 15th, at 6 a. m. broke camp and traveled sixteen miles, camping on Coon Creek, a short distance from the camp of the Prairie Apache Indians. We found but little wood on the creek, consequently had to eat cold 'grub.' During the night our camp was surrounded by wolves, which kept up a continual howl until early morn. Soon after daylight we spied a large buffalo. In the twinkling of an eye rifles were in hand and, after a short chase, the monster was brought to the ground by the
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well-directed bullet of Atty. Gage. He had evi- dently been wounded by an arrow not long before we saw him.
"On Friday, traveled twenty-two miles and camped on the Arkansas River, which we found dry, but by digging a few feet in the bed of the river, found excellent water. Being out of the wood district, were obliged to use, as a substi- tute, buffalo 'chips,' which, to our surprise, made a better fire than the wood we had been using. The chief of a tribe of the Prairie Apaches stopped in camp over night.
"Saturday opened very cold, with strong northwest wind from the mountains. Broke camp at daylight. Saw this day many prairie dogs, small animals similar to our muskrat, which live in the river banks. About noon passed a train of ten ox wagons, bound west, and met a tribe of Indians moving East, prob- ably to Fort Larned. At 4 p. m. camped on the Arkansas, having travelled twenty miles. Obliged to dig for water and use buffalo 'chips.'
"It is amusing enough after coming into camp to see all, from the Governor down, out on the prairie, bag in hand, collecting 'chips.' On Sunday saw several white wolves skulking about in the big grass. At 3 p. m., camped on the river, having moved twenty-five miles. Found plenty of water, but no wood. During the night a report was in circulation that there were 2,000 Texan rangers twenty-five miles in our advance. Travelled twenty miles on Monday. Met the stage carrying the United States mail.
Very cold night. Tuesday walked most of the day, it being cold riding. No wood yet. Wednesday, one of the coldest days I have
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experienced in a long time. After travelling twenty miles, passing several Indian encamp- ments, we camped near the Big Tree of the Arkansas, the only tree between Larned and Lyon. Tuesday, the 22nd, very cold. Com- menced snowing at eight and continued all day. The stage passed us, going west. Got Eastern papers-St. Louis Democrat and Kansas City papers-for the small sum of twenty-five cents each. Friday, found the river frozen, and were obliged to melt ice for cooking. Met a large train of Indians, bound east. Camped again on the Arkansas. Buffalo 'chips' getting scarce. Saturday, cold and windy. Met the stage bound east. At 3 p. m., we camped ten miles from Fort Lyon. On Sunday we arrived here, and have since been enjoying the luxury of wood fires, fresh beef, etc. The buildings-officers' quarters, barracks, etc.,-are of stone, one story high, with mud roofs. They are said to be warm in winter, and agreeably cool in summer.
"There are about six hundred troops stationed here, mostly Colorado volunteers; three com- panies of cavalry, one of infantry, and two sec- tions of battery. There are quite a number of tribes of Indians camped near, which are very troublesome. During the summer, when game is plenty, they do not hang around these parts, but as soon as winter approaches they come in, and manage to beg or steal their living until spring, when they resume their wild pur- suits.
"Our party, the escort, the teamsters, and all attached to the party, have enjoyed excellent health and are in fine spirits. The killing of one of the teamsters by the assistant wagon-master
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TRAVELS OF GOVERNOR GOODWIN'S PARTY.
striking him over the head with a spade, is the only thing that has happened to mar the pleasure of the journey, thus far.
"The governor has a Santa Fe paper (Elnoro Amejicano) of the 17th of October, from which I have been reading an official report of Capt. N. J. Pishon, U. S. A., concerning the recent mining discoveries among the San Francisco mountains, 'Weaver's and Walker's District.' Capt. Pishon left Fort Craig, New Mexico, with his company, to escort Surveyor-General John A. Clark, to the newly discovered gold fields of Capt. Walker and party.
"The San Francisco mountains of Arizona lie north of the Gila, and from one hundred to two hundred miles east of the Colorado River. Pishon says in his report that the mines are far richer than any previously discovered. He was there twelve days, travelling and prospect- ing. Gold was found everywhere. No pan was washed out but yielded more or less of the yellow metal. A quantity of dirt-about two- thirds full of a flour sack-was washed and yielded $8.75. The mining ground is known to extend one hundred and fifty miles, and Capt. Walker is confident that richer mines and more water for mining purposes exist further to the east, but he cannot venture into that country on account of the hostility of the Indians. Those whom they have encountered thus far are per- fectly friendly, but the Tonto Apaches, who live just beyond, say that the whites shall not go into their country for any purpose whatever. The climate in the districts already discovered is said to be unequalled in California, being quite exempt from extremes of heat or cold.
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The whole country is covered with grass, which, in the valleys, is most luxuriant. The mountains are covered with forest timber of great rarity, there being the white and black oak, hackberry, mulberry, walnut, pine, cedar, etc.
"There is plenty of game, deer, antelope, turkey, mountain sheep, etc. A soldier here, who was with Capt. Pishon in his prospecting tour, endorses the above report. He says at the time they left the country there were not more than forty or fifty men in both districts, but that they met at least three hundred more travelling towards the new 'El Dorado.' If all that I have read and heard be true-which I have no reason to doubt-I think it will do me good to go up there and turn over a few sods. What say you? Many of the men of our train intend going into the mines on our arrival.
"We leave for Fort, Union tomorrow, crossing the Raton Mountains about eighty miles from here. Are afraid of finding snow. If success- ful, we shall arrive at Santa Fe, distant three hundred and thirty-four miles, in twenty days. "Your son, "JONATHAN."
"One hundred and four miles from Santa Fe. "Fort Union, New Mexico. "Nov. 9th, 1863.
"Dear Father:
"We have just camped, and are busy reload- ing wagons, and proceed westward in the morn- ing.
"In my previous letters from the different Forts, (Riley, Larned, and Lyon), I gave you brief accounts of our journey thus far, my letters giving descriptions of travel from Lyon
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TRAVELS OF GOVERNOR GOODWIN'S PARTY.
to our present camp I shall have to omit until our arrival at Santa Fe, which is about four days' travel from here. I will merely state that we left Lyon in a heavy snowstorm, and conse- quently found no grass for mules and horses un- til we arrived at the foot of the mountains (four days), when we found forage. We lost two mules and one horse-died of colic.
"Have just been informed by Judge (Howell) that on our arrival at Santa Fe, after stopping a week or ten days, we proceed directly to the mines, (San Francisco Mountains). They now intend establishing the Capital at or near the mines instead of at Tucson. Everyone in the party is gold struck. The fever is raging furi- ously. Mules and Mexican ponies in Santa Fe bring $200. Governor has letters here from re- sponsible men stating that fortunes are daily made, etc. We shall purchase tools in Santa Fe. At Fort Lyon I wrote and sent receipts for $40 which please send me at once as I need it for an outfit. Direct care of Judge Howell (Ari- zona party). We shall probably get our mail for the present at Tucson, Arizona, which is about one hundred miles from the mines. I write in haste. Much love to all.
"Your son, "JONATHAN."
"Santa Fe, New Mexico, "Nov. 22nd, 1863.
"Dear Father :
"We left Fort Lyon on Friday, Oct. 30th, in a heavy snowstorm, and on camping at five p. m., on the bank of the Arkansas, twenty miles from Lyon, found eight inches of snow. Saturday, 31st, pleasant, snow fast disappear-
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ing. At ten o'clock passed Bent's Fort, an old trading post owned and occupied by Col. Bent, an old Indian trader (French), and crossed the Arkansas, fording it. Had a good meal of fresh venison and rabbit.
"Saturday, cold, with strong northwest wind; broke camp at seven, and took a last look at the ' Arkansaw'; steered south thirty-three miles, and camped at Iron Springs. No grass or wood to be had. Monday broke camp at seven and proceeded. Found the roads very bad, country broken and rocky; traveled thirty-three miles and camped at the 'Hole in the Prairie'; six mules sick and one horse died. No grass to be had and were obliged to give double allowance of corn. Tuesday, cold and windy, broke camp at the usual hour and proceeded; left two dead horses and one mule. At twelve o'clock ar- rived at the foot of the Raton Mountains at a small village called Picketware, in Colorado Territory, or 'Purgatory' as called by many. Camped early so as to make an early start on the morrow. Judge Howell and I feeling tired, put on a little style and concluded to take supper at a restaurant at 'Gray's Ranch,' in- stead of cooking our own meal in camp. On dinner being announced, we presented ourselves, and were soon engaged masticating what little grub lay before us. The bill of fare consisted of bear's meat, a few boiled beans, hard bread and coffee without sugar. What a luxury ? Who would not sell a farm and come out here to board ?
"We met at the table Judge Howard, form- erly of Ann Arbor, and Atty. Hinsdell, of Kal- amazoo, Michigan, cousin of Chester and Henry
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Hinsdell of Grand Rapids. Judge Howard and Atty. Hinsdell have been in Colorado two or three years, making their headquarters at Den- ver. They were holding court at Gray's Ranch for a few days. I visited a man nearby who had been attacked and badly mangled a few days before by a cinnamon bear. The animal after- wards was killed, and weighed 800 lbs. He was a monster.
"Wednesday, broke camp at eight, and pro- ceeded; at ten passed through a small Mexican town called Trinidad, or 'Peth' where two out of every three men starve to death. Saw many fresh bear tracks in our ascent, but had the good fortune not to meet the dreaded maker thereof. Camped at six p. m. at 'The Cabins' six miles below the summit. Found plenty of wood, pine, cedar, oak and cherry, and water of the purest kind. 'The Cabins' is a level place between two tall peaks, where a large train belonging to Russell & Majors was snowed in last winter. They were obliged to build a number of small tenements or cabins, whence the name of the pass, which still remain and are occupied by many a weary and grateful traveller. In one of the cabins we found the head of an Indian woman which had not long been severed from the body. It had been scalped, but the rings still remained in the ears.
"Thursday, Nov. 5th, at eight, broke camp and proceeded and at nine passed up the 'divide,' a hill one mile long, the division line between Colorado and New Mexico. Arrived on the summit; had a fine view of the Spanish Peaks lying to the northwest, and Pike's Peak, north- east, distant one hundred miles. In our de-
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scent met a company of cavalry returning from Fort Union. They gave us gold news which furnished material for castle-building during the remainder of the journey. Passed through the 'Devil's Gate' at twelve o'clock. Camped at five p. m. at 'Truax's Rancho' on the Red River.
"Friday, Nov. 6th, pleasant. Proceeded on our march at eight a. m. Saw a large number of Mexican sheep which graze in the fertile val- leys west of the mountains, and are guarded by herdsmen. Drove twenty-five miles through a broken country-high bluffs on either side, pass- ing through what is called the 'canion.'
"Saturday. At twelve m. passed Maxwell's Rancho, said to be the finest building in New Mexico. Maxwell, an American, came out here when a boy, and on coming of age married the daughter of a wealthy herdsman. He and his father-in-law now own forty square miles of land, having 100,000 sheep and 1,000 horses, and, upon the question being put to him: 'How many cattle have you ?' says he : 'You see them graz- ing yonder,' and so you may, scattered through a district of forty miles. He has a fine house, two stories, a flouring mill; and numerous out- buildings, corrals, etc. There are about a hun- dred of his herdsmen living in small mud huts close by. They are Mexicans and get from five to six dollars a month. At five p. m. camped at Rijo, a Mexican town built and owned by Maxwell, population two hundred, houses built mostly of 'dobies,' chunks of mud about the size of a brick.
"Sunday, 8th. Drove twenty-five miles, and camped at 'Ocate'; roads rough and hilly.
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"Monday, Nov. 9th. Broke camp at seven and proceeded. Arrived at two p. m. at Fort Union, all in usual health, stock looking rather slim. Fort Union is the largest military post in New Mexico. General Carleton was present to receive us, and had all the arrangements made for our immediate advance. Leaving Fort Union, we averaged twenty-five miles travel every day, camping nights in or near some Mexi- can town. On the 12th camped at 'San Jose,' found all the inhabitants drunk. A party of Navajo Indians had visited them the day before, and driven off six thousand of their sheep. A few of the Mexicans had pursued the Indians and the remainder had got on a 'spree.' On Friday visited the ruins of 'Montezuma,' an old church in which a fire was kept up for upwards of two hundred years, with the hope that the tribe of Indians should thereby regain their chief, Montezuma, but who failed to return, hav- ing been killed by Cortez for his gold. This church is located on the road thirty miles east of this place (Santa Fe).
"Saturday, 14th. Arrived here, found the place about as we expected, built up of mud houses, mostly of one story. It is situated in a valley, but, strange to say, is watered by a stream of water not more than two feet in width. Wood is scarce, being brought from the mountains. Population not known, supposed to be in the neighborhood of six thousand.
"We leave here on Tuesday for the mines. Please direct as stated in the one accompanying. Have not time or convenience for writing the kind of a letter I wish, but trust for the future. Much love to all.
"Your son,
"JONATHAN. "
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"Pinos Ranch, New Mexico, Nov. 26th, 1863.
"Dear Father:
"We left Santa Fe at noon to-day, and travelled fifteen miles, camping about sunset. On Tuesday, Captain McFarren (Quarter- master) of Santa Fe, learning that the Judge was from Michigan, called on him, having an interest in the state, i. e., twenty acres of land about half a mile from the city limits on Bridge Street, Grand Rapids, (east side). The Judge was unable to post him, and referred him to me. Mr. McFarren invited me to the office where he produced a map of the land. He said that it was an investment (through Major Backus, who was a very intimate friend and brother officer), in fifty-five. . He has it in the hands of Ball & McKee. He wished to know of the parties, situation and probable value of the land. I told him, excepting value, not being posted very well on that score. He informed me that he paid one thousand dollars and hoped it would bring that. Now, provided he had a good title, which can be learned by calling on Ball & McKee (or writing McFarren), and you wish to invest, I think a thousand dollars would purchase. Look at it. Captain McFarren I found to be a very fine gentleman. He belongs, as did Ma- jor Backus, to the (regulars) U. S. A., and served with him several years in Mexico. He asked of Mrs. Gunnison, with whose husband, when living, he was well acquainted.
"In our conversation we brought up the min- eral wealth of the Territories; the different min- ing companies, etc. He informed me that Major Backus and several others were interested in a
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tract of land supposed to be rich with silver, (he was president of the company), but it did not amount to much, their capital being small and machinery high. The mines were probably the ones the Major, while living, was so anxious you should invest in.
"We leave here in the morning. Our mail is to be forwarded us from Santa Fe. Much love to all.
"Your son, "JONATHAN."
"On our arrival in the mines, things looking well, I will write giving directions how to come should Uncle Fred and Abel, and Mr. Briggs think best. Things look bad at present. Most of Santa Fe moves towards the mines in the spring. Several miners from Pike's Peak joined us travelling for protection under our es- cort to the mines. Write, send papers."
"Fort Wingate, New Mexico, "Tuesday, Dec. 15th, 1863.
"Dear Parents :
"We arrived here on Sunday, and have been waiting for the remainder of the train which we left on the 'Rio Grande' and which arrived to- day.
"We left Santa Fe on the 25th November, and on the 28th camped at Albuquerque on the Rio Grande, stopping eight days.
"Albuquerque is located in the rich, fertile valley of the Rio Grande which is irrigated at all seasons of the year. Wood is not to be found nearer than thirty miles, and when brought into market, brings from two to two and a half dol- lars a donkey load.
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"The population of Albuquerque is about three thousand, mostly Mexicans, or, as termed in this country, 'greasers.' The males are a very degraded, lazy, ignorant set. An officer of a company stationed there told me he had seen men go to the market in the morning with one or two eggs, and lay there in the sun all day, and in the evening return home without a sale. Their price for a single egg is five cents.
"The women are industrious, doing all of the work about the house, in and out, bringing the wood and water, the latter they carry in large jars which they carry on their heads.
"While in the city we attended a fandango (as in Santa Fe) every night.
"We left Albuquerque on December 8th, crossing the Rio Grande three miles below with- out accident. Drove four miles down the east bank and camped at a Mexican town. Attended a 'baile' (fandango) in the evening, and on the following morning broke camp, leaving the Rio Grande, drove twenty-five miles, and camped.
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