USA > California > Marin County > History of Marin County, California also an historical sketch of the state of California > Part 31
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his own. There ever upon his hands were the drops of her blood; in his ears there ever rang that last wild shriek, the groan, the death rattle in her throat, the gasp; before his mind's eye there ever arose the vision of that last sad scene and the tragic end of the life he had sworn before God and man to cherish and protect, the supplicating appeal in her face when the hand of the slayer descended upon her, the recoil, the quiver, and all was over and he a doomed man, an outcast from the society of men, and with no hope of Heaven. Peace there was none, solace could not be found, all, all was gone. In the wilderness of a far away country he tried to entomb
himself, and struggled in vain to forget. His punishment began on earth, and who shall say where the end shall be ! His grave was made on the brow of a hill overlooking the beautiful bay beside which he had spent so many unhappy days, and the ceaseless roar of the Pacific is his requiem.
In 1849, quite late in the season, a party composed of the following named persons came to Bolinas bay for the purpose of getting out wharf timbers :- Joseph Almy, Charles Lauff, Henderson, B. T. Winslow, James Cummings, James Hough, Fred Sampson, Dr. Grattan, Hiram Nott, William F. Chappell and a few others whose names have been forgotten. James Hough had the contract for getting out the timbers and employed the other men, and received two dollars per running foot for the timbers delivered at San Francisco. The timber was rafted down the bay and over the bar where a vessel was anchored ready to receive it. It was used in the construction of wharves and warehouses in San Francisco. Joseph Almy undertook to take a raft to the city, but not being familiar with the tides and currents of the ocean he was driven into the breakers on what is known as the "potato patch," and his raft went to pieces. This company had quite a large building located about one hundred yards north of the present resi- dence of W. W. Wilkins. The only passenger boat running from San Fran- cisco to Bolinas at that time was a small " double ender," run by a man with the peculiarly odd title of "Captain Town Meeting," and no other name is known for him. The only house on the east side of the bay at that time was located where Mr. Mckinnon now lives, and was occupied by a man named Johnson. There was an unoccupied shake shanty on the point on the west side of the bay. Two men by the name of Winston and Cummings were located further up toward the top of the ridge, and were engaged in making shingles. Of this party, only Joseph Almy and Charles Lauff are still residents of Bolinas. Mr. Almy was County Judge for a number of years, and Mr. Lauff is one of Bolinas' substantial citizens. Henderson after- wards married one of Rafael Garcia's daughters and died. This was the first marriage which occurred in the northern end of the township, in San Rafael in 1855. Dr. Grattan lived in Stockton for a number of years, and Hiram Nott married one of the daughters of Gregorio Briones and settled on the Mesa west of the bay. He died in 1869.
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HISTORY OF MARIN COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
In December, 1850, there arrived in that section a man by the name of John Greenwood, who was a hunter. He was the son of a Rocky Mountain hunter and a relative of the mighty nimrod, David Crockett, and had the reputation of being one of the finest shots in the country. He brought with him a young wife, not yet half out of her teens, with rosy cheeks and skin as fair as a lily, who contrasted very strangely with the tawny daughters of the native Californians. To them was born, March 15, 1852, the first child in the township, of other than Spanish parentage. Greenwood was killed in San Bernardino in 1859, but his wife is still living, having lost none of her vivacity by the added years, which seem to rest very lightly upon her head. Captain A. D. Easkoot came next, in 1851, and located at the extreme southern point on the bay. The next place north of him was located on by Captain J. A. Morgan. He lived in a ship's deck-house, which was fourteen by twenty, and seven feet high, and was engaged in farming and dairying. In 1872 he returned East, and in 1874 was thrown from a buggy and killed. The next place north was settled by Captain Joseph Almy, and the next was occupied by Greenwood. On the west side of the bay there was the Briones ranch house and a house owned by Captain George Gavitt at the point. In 1852 David Robinson and Calvin E. Woodbury built a small saloon at the point, getting the lumber out of a ship's poop. It was about ten feet square and had two banks and a deal table for poker in it. Two brothers, Thomas and William John- son came in and located on the west side of the bay, in what is still known as the Johnson gulch. They were ship-wrights and built a number of schooners there. In the same gulch a man by the name of Adams located and began raising poultry. Further north James Brayton was living in a little shanty and was growing potatoes. He afterwards went to Contra Costa county and settled. On the west side of the bay a Californian by the name of José Jesus Vuelinsuelo had built a house just back and a little to the south of the present site of the Druid Hall. During this year Captain George Gavitt began running the schooner " Eliza " from San Fran- cisco to Bolinas. He also had a saloon with the title of "Golden Racer." W. W. Wilkins, S. P. Weeks and several others came in and located in the vicinity during the year. In 1853 Captain Samuel Clark and Captain P. L. Bourne came to Bolinas, also several others. In 1854 George Hilton located on the ridge east of the bay. As yet there had not been a wagon road constructed either to San Rafael or Saucelito, and to reach the former place with a team it was necessary to go ria Olema. There was a trait over the mountain about where the present most excellent grade is, and a trail also leading to Saucelito. In 1857 T. J. and E. B. Mahon opened the first store, which was located at Woodville. They continued there only one year. In 1857 Henry Clover built and opened a store near the Briones ranch house. He sold to William Levy, and he to George Brittian and William Lacy.
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George Brittian and William Haskell opened the first store at the point in 1862. The first hotel at the point was located by John Gifford. The first dwelling house erected at the point was built by Captain Almy and the Johnson brothers. There was an abundance of California lions and bears in the woods on the east side of the bay. These lions would kill colts and small stock. They were extirpated about 1860.
SAW-MILLS .- In 1851 Captain Hammond built the first saw-mill in this section, which was located on the present site of Woodville. It was a circular, and had a capacity of about eight thousand feet daily, and was run by steam. In 1852 this mill was reconstructed by Captain Oliver Allen, and a circular saw put in, giving it a capacity of twenty thousand feet. This mill was run at times for about six years, when the machinery was taken out and shipped to San Francisco. It is estimated that all told this mill cut six million feet of lumber. The second mill was built by an associa- tion known as the Bolinas Saw Mill Company, who had also come into possession of the first mill. It was put in operation soon after the first one, and was located in a gulch very near the former. It was a steam, circular saw, and had a capacity of about eight thousand feet daily. It was after- wards sold to George R. Morris, who moved it down to what is now known as Pike County Gulch, near the head of the bay, and run there for some time. It is estimated that this mill cut three million feet. The next mill was built in December, 1853, by J. L. Moulthrop, and was located on what is known as Peck's ridge. It was a steam, circular saw, and could cut twelve thousand feet daily. It was afterwards purchased by Captain Peck and moved farther up the ridge, and was thereafter known as the Peck mill. It is estimated that this mill cut three million feet of lumber. The last mill built in that section was put in operation by D. B. L. Ross and John Ruther- ford in 1858, and was located in the road leading from Bolinas to Olema, and just south of Wm. Randall's place. This mill did not run but a short time. and it is estimated that it cut one million feet. This would make a total yield of thirteen million feet of lumber from that belt of redwood. When the mills were first put in operation it was estimated that there were over fifty million feet in those forests, but they did not approximate the estima- tion. The logs were drawn to the mills with heavy ox teams on carts, the wheels of which were made from sections sawed off from a log. The lumber was drawn to the head of the bay, and thence lightered out over the bar where it was loaded on vessels for San Francisco. The transportation of this lumber required from six to eight vessels ranging in carrying capacity from eight thousand to one hundred and twenty thousand feet each. The remnants of the old lighter wharves are all that is now left to mark the site of these busy operations, and where once there existed an industry which gave employment to hundreds of men, and yielded a handsome income, not
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even the stroke of an ax is heard. All is gone, and naught of it will ever return. In the days of the pristine glory of this forest primeval it was no uncommon thing to find trees fifty feet in circumference, and the lumber was all first-class. There was a shingle mill on Randall's place in 1858, but nothing is known now, however, concerning it.
SHIP BUILDING .- On account of the availability of lumber and timber at Bolinas, there have been probably more vessels built here than at any part of the coast outside of San Francisco. The greater portion of this work has been done by two brothers, Thomas and William Johnson. As stated above, they came to this place in 1852, and at once began operations at their busi- ness. The following list embraces the names, time of building of the first and last ones, and tonnage of all the vessels which they have built here . " Louisa," built in 1854, fifty tons register; "Hamlet," sixty-five tons ; " Lizzie Shea," forty-five tons; "Anna Caroline," eighty tons; " Effie Newell," eighty tons ; " Fourth of July," forty tons; "Leda," twenty-eight tons ; " Emma Louisa Morgan," thirty-five tons ; "Emma Frances," forty- five tons ; and "Francis," built in 1870, forty-five tons. This makes a total of ten vessels, all of which were schooners, with a total register of five hun- dred and thirteen tons, and as the carrying capacity was one-third greater than the registered tonnage, they had a total burthen of seven hundred and seventy tons. Of all these schooners only two are left, the " Hamlet " and the " Emma Frances." The "Louisa " was sunk off Duxbury reef by collid- ing with a schooner from Tomales bay ; the "Hamlet " runs to Sonoma; the " Lizzie Shea " was lost at Sitka ; the " Anna Caroline " was wrecked in the Bay of San Francisco; the " Effie Newell " was rebuilt into a steamer called the " Pearl ;" the " Fourth of July " went ashore at Tennessee Valley in a heavy north-wester, three lives lost; the "Leda " was lost down the coast somewhere; the "Emma Louisa Morgan " was wrecked inside the heads in a south-easter ; the " Emma Frances" hails from some Mexican port, and is still alive; and the "Francis" was lost off Point Reyes. The ship-yard where these vessels were built was near where Mr. H. MeKennon now resides, on the east side of the bay.
Captain, since Judge, Almy built a small schooner in 1855 which he called the " Joseph Almy." It registered nineteen tons, and had a carrying capa- city of thirty tons, and was launched in September. His ship yard was located on the Sand beach at the mouth of Bolinas bay, a short distance to the eastward of the channel. He had never built a vessel before, and knew nothing about the work practically, but he was an experienced sailor, and had a theory of his own as to how a schooner should be constructed, and he set about it to put his theory into a tangible form. Ship builders and sailors laughed at him, and prophesied all sorts of evil betidings for his craft, but he laughs best who laughs last, and the outcome proved that the builder
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of the vessel was he who had the last smile. When she was launched she proved that she was well proportioned and rode the crested waves. like a thing of life. Captain Almy continued to run her for twelve years, and then disposed of her. She changed hands frequently, being used at one time as a pilot boat. She was so seaworthy that pilots in her felt secure in going out as far as the Farallone Islands. At last, in 1876, she came into the hands of Captain Mullet, who used her in the sea lion catching business. In 1878, while in the vicinity of Bolinas bay, a storm overtook her, and she put in for shelter. While there she was chartered by a party of sight- seers for an excursion to the Farallones. The trip was made safely, but instead of coming inside the bay when they returned, they cast two anchors on the bar. In the morning when they waked up they found the vessel rolling in the breakers and dragging both anchors. The men on board were saved, but the schooner was stranded on the beach within a hundred yards of where she had been launched nearly a quarter of a century pre- vious. She had truly come home to die! Her insurance had expired just the week before, which is the only ill-luck she ever brought to any man.
SHIPWRECKS .- While there are no harbors of safety along the coast line of Bolinas township, yet it does not stand out so boldly to the sea as that of Point Reyes, and hence shipwrecks are less numerous. There is, however, one place which is very dangerous, and were it not well known and care- fully avoided by sailors, it would prove disastrous to many vessels. This is Duxbury reef, a series of sunken rocks extending in a southerly direction for a distance of about two miles from the coast. The first vessel to be wrecked on this reef was the propeller steamer "S. S. Lewis," bound from Panama to San Francisco with freight and passengers, there being four hundred of the latter on board. The accident occurred at three o'clock A. M., April 9, 1853. The night was very dark and foggy, and knowing that they were near the entrance of San Francisco bay, they fired signal guns at frequent intervals, hoping to be heard at the heads and be signaled into port. They were evidently drifting with the tide waiting for the moving light to show them where they were. At last she drifted upon the reef, and sprung a leak, but fortunately the swell carried her over the rock into deep water. She was then headed for the shore hoping thus to save the passengers. Happily they came upon a beach just at low water, 'and all on board were safely landed. The return of the tide drove the vessel upon the rocks, and by nine o'clock she had broken to pieces and her sides were washed ashore. All the freight and baggage was lost, as was also the safe containing twenty thousand dollars. More or less of the former was washed ashore, but noth- ing was ever scen of the latter, nor have divers been successful in finding it. After the passengers were landed, large tents were constructed for their accommodation, and they remained here two days till the Captain and
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Purser could go to San Francisco and get assistance, and two revenue cutters finally came and took them to their destination. While encamped here Gregorio Briones slaughtered a bullock daily and sent it to them.
The steamer " Governor," or "Eldorado " as she was also known, ran aground at one side of the channel, just at the entrance to the bay. It is not known now in what year it occurred, but evidently about 1853, as she was engaged in transporting lumber from Bolinas to San Francisco. She was an old boat, and but little effort was made to save her. Sand washed into her hold with the water, and anchored her so firmly that no effort could get her to float again.
The schooner "Josephine" went ashore on the beach just west of the channel at the entrance to the bay. No lives were lost, but nothing further is known of her.
In 1870 the sloop " Clark " was run aground at one side of the channel, at the entrance of the bay, but no lives were lost. She was an old vessel, and no effort was made to save her.
The schooner " Joseph Almy," went ashore in 1878 on the beach east of the channel, a full account of which has already been given in these pages.
In 1878 the ship " Western Shore," bound from Seattle to San Francisco, laden with coal, was driven upon Duxbury reef, and sank just inside of it, but no lives were lost. Great quantities of coal were washed ashore, and proved a rich harvest for the people along the beach.
CORD-WOOD .- This was a staple interest of Bolinas at one time, there being as high as four hundred cords of wood per week shipped from the bay. At that time there was a number of small vessels owned by Capt. J. A. Mor- gan, known as the " Mosquito Fleet," all of which were engaged in the wood carrying business. It is estimated that fully five hundred thousand cords of wood have been shipped from here, as many as ten schooners, making each two trips a week, being required during the busy season.
BOLINAS NAVIGATION COMPANY .- This organization was incorporated April 13, 1874, with David McMullen, Samuel Clark, W. W. Wilkins, Wm. J. Randall and George W. Drake, Trustees. The capital stock of the corpora- tion was fifteen thousand dollars, of which nine thousand four hundred dollars was paid up, and the shares had a face value of one hundred dollars each. A double propeller steamer was built in San Francisco, and christened " Conti- nental." When she was brought into the bay it was found that she drew too much water, and that it was unsafe to try to take her over the bar in any kind of rough weather. She was sold to Whitelaw of San Francisco, and after run- ning up and down the coast for a few years, was lost in Humboldt bay.
COPPER MINES .- In 1863 a company was organized known as the "Pike County Gulch Copper Mining Company," of which Samuel Clark was Pres- ident. The occasion of the formation of this corporation was the indication
yours Truly: ag Dieser.
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of copper ore found in extensive outcroppings in this gulch. A tunnel was run seven hundred feet into the hillside, occupying about three years, but copper could not be found in quantities large enough to pay; and the enter- prise was finally abandoned. During the same year indications of copper ore were discovered less than a mile north-east of Woodville, and Pablo Briones and William Ewings, under the title of " The Union Copper Mining Company," undertook to develop a mine. They were much encouraged, and sent several tons of the ore to San Francisco for reduction, but after work- ing at it seven years they abandoned the mine. It is probable that there is a lode of copper-bearing ore somewhere in that vicinity, for the out-croppings are common and rich with metal, but it will, however, remain for future generations to find it.
CHURCHES-Methodist .- The following sketch of the Methodist Church at Bolinas has been kindly furnished by Rev. Wm. Gordon of that place :-
The first Protestant preaching in Bolinas was by Rev. Mr. Gilbert (Bap- tist), of San Rafael. Sometime in 1861, Rev. Mr. Canberry (Methodist) came to this place and preached a number of times. In 1862 Rev. N. Burton was appointed by the M. E. Conference to the Marin Circuit, which included the State Prison, San Rafael, Olema, and Bolinas, and remained on the charge two years. In 1864 Rev. Wm. Gordon was appointed to this same circuit, and added to the already established appointments, Tomales bay and Chileno valley. With the exception of the State Prison, school-houses were the only places of worship. The place of worship in Bolinas, at that time, was a small, dingy school-house, about sixteen feet square, situated near the head of the bay, close to the County road and on the place now owned by Mr. A. Steele. The house had been taken possession of by the woodpeckers, and their rights were disputed only once in two weeks-on the Sabbath-when a few of the people gathered together for public wor- ship. During the Winter of 1865-66 the Sons of Temperance enlarged and improved the house, which made it more suitable as a place of worship, and it was used for such purpose until the Bay District School-house was built, which became the sanctuary of all religious denominations who chose to occupy it, till the three churches were built in 1877. In 1866 Rev. J. A. Burlingame was appointed to this charge, preaching at Bolinas, in connection with other points of the circuit, once in two weeks, but during the second year of his pastoral work his health failed, and his labor ceased. In 1868 Rev. B. W. Rusk was appointed to the circuit and preached at Bolinas once in two weeks during the two Conference years he remained on the charge. In 1870 the old circuit, embracing nearly all of Marin county, was divided and Rev. Mr. King appointed to Bolinas and Olema, and remained on the charge one year. In 1871 Rev. A. Williams was appointed to San Rafael and Bolinas, and remained on the charge one year. In 1872 Rev.
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John McIntire was appointed to Bolinas and Saucelito, and remained on the charge one year. In 1873 Rev. Mr. Cummings was appointed to Bolinas and remained one year. In 1874 Rev. N. Burton was reappointed to the Marin Circuit, which included Bolinas, and remained on the charge one year. In 1875 Rev. D. E. George was appointed to Bolinas Circuit, which embraced Bolinas, Olema and Point Reyes. Under the pastoral supervision of Mr. George the only camp-meeting ever held in Marin county, was conducted in a grove between Bolinas and Olema in July, 1876. Mr. George remained on the charge one year. In 1876 Rev. Mr. Dinsmore was appointed to this charge and remained one year. In 1877 this circuit was divided and Mr. Dinsmore was appointed to Point Reyes and Olema, and Rev. George W. Beatty was appointed to San Rafael and Bolinas. This was the year the Methodist Church was built at Bolinas, costing about two thousand dollars exclusive of the lot, which was donated by S. McCurdy, and is one of the finest buildings of the kind to be found in the State outside of the large towns and cities: an ornament to the place and a credit to the taste and enterprise of those who built it. It is free from all debt, and was dedicated to the worship of God December 16th of that year by Rev. F. F. Jewell, D. D., of San Francisco. In 1878 Rev. W. M. Woodward was appointed to Bolinas, and preached in the M. E. Church every Sabbath for one year when he was removed, and in 1879 Rev. S. Belknap was appointed to the place.
. PRESBYTERIAN .- In 1874 Rev. Thomas Fraser, Synodical Missionary for the Pacific coast, went to Bolinas and organized a Presbyterian church, with the following members :- Mrs. Mary Morse, Miss Elonor Strain, Mrs. Gil- lespie, Hugh Ingram, Mary Ingram, Robert Ingram, Robert D. Baily, Andrew Steele, Mrs. Jane Steele, Mrs. Joseph Morse, and Miss Ada Ingram. Rev. James L. Drum officiated as pastor for the next three years, preaching on alternate Sabbaths and holding the services in a school-house. He was succeeded by Rev. John Hemphill, Jr., who began a movement June 1, 1877, for the erection of a church building. Work on the structure was begun in September, and the house was dedicated to the service of the Lord in November of that year. The cost of the building and finishing was three thousand dollars, all of which had been paid when it was dedicated, which speaks very highly for the energy of the minister and the liberality of the people. In architecture it is gothic, and presents a very attractive appear- ance. In size it is twenty-five by sixty-two feet. The present membership numbers eighteen.
THE TEMPERANCE CAUSE IN BOLINAS .- The following has been furnished by Rev. William Gordon :- Fifteen years ago temperance reform was needed in Bolinas as well as some other places, and an effort in this direction was made by the Good Templars, who effected an organization in the Winter of
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1864-65. It had but few members and did not survive more than a few months. On the 12th of September, 1865, the Bolinas Division, No. 8, Sons of Temperance was organized by Rev. William Gordon, D. G. W. P., in his own house, and the following charter members elected to the respec- tive offices :- L. J. Foster, W. P .; John O'Harvy. W. A .; Lewis Gordon, R. S .; Louis Woodrum, A. R. S .; Jessie Cole, F. S .; J. M. Burke, P. W. P .; Loss C. Pyles, Treas .; George Davis, Con .; Peter O'Neil, A. Con .; W. B. Foster, I. S .; Edward Baker, O. S .; William Foster, Ch .; Joseph Almy, G. T. Sproat, John Jacobson, William Gordon. This division continued to prosper for several years, and included among its members nearly all the prominent citizens of the community, numbering at one time over seventy members. Their place of meeting was the school-house, near the head of Bolinas bay, which they enlarged and fitted up for their use as a hall to meet in. They accomplished a great amount of good, which has never died out, although the organization disbanded several years ago. September 23d, 1878, Bolinas Division, No. 9, Sons of Temperance was organized by Rev. William Gordon, D. G. W. P., and the following charter members elected to the various offices :- H. Strain, W. P .; Hugh Munro, W. A .; David McCoy, R. S .; William Strain, A. R. S .; Dougald McLean, F. S .; David McMullin, Treas .; Samuel McMullin, Chap .; William Betten, Con. ; James Golden, A. C .; James McMullin, I. S .; Joseph Gastael, O. S. This division is now in its fourth year, and owns its own hall in Woodville, which cost the division about five hundred dollars.
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