USA > California > Riverside County > History of Riverside County, California > Part 6
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systematic street-tree planting, which has given the city its most attractive characteristic, and the cultivation of a generous senti- ment regarding church and school interests -- that the more promi- nent among them, at least, deserve to be mentioned at this point in our record. Some are dead; some have moved to other sections; but many have left children and grandchildren who are proud of their city and as ready as were their parents to strive for its advancement.
Among the fifty or more heads of families who came to River- side during the two years following 1874, were S. C. Evans, W. T. Sayward, D. W. McLeod, H. J. Rudisill, E. W. Holmes, Oscar Ford, M. B. Van Fleet, Dr. S. R. Magee, S. S. Patton, George Miller, B. D. Burt, Frank Burt, H. A. Westbrook, George Craw- ford, John B. Crawford, R. F. Cunningham, George D. Cunning- ham, Seneca La Rue, H. A. Puls, Ira C. Haight, A. D. Haight. R. P. Cundiff, T. R. Cundiff, James Publicover, J. A. Simms, E. F. Kingman, William Finch, Albert S. White, Dr. C. J. Gill, H. P. Keyes, Aberdien Keith, H. M. Streeter, Edwin Caldwell, A. B. Derby, Dr. C. W. Packard, A. McCrary, Dr. W. H. Ball, A. P. Combs, John Downs, J. W. Hamilton, W. R. Russell, P. M. Califf, W. O. Price, J. M. Alkire, Mrs. G. M. Cunningham and family, L. Randall, and others.
The new company, upon taking charge in the early part of 1875, pushed canal construction vigorously, as well as all other departments of their work. Lands were rapidly disposed of at from $25 to $60 an acre, and the sanguine and energetic settlers, who this season located on what became known as Brockton Square (because many of them came from the Massachusetts city of that name), did not wait for the winter rains to fit their land for plough- ing, but flooded and leveled it, and by midsummer had many trees and annual crops planted and growing.
The year 1876 saw a transformation in the valley's appear- ance, for it was in this year that Magnolia avenue was laid out and planted with the shade trees which have made it so attractive. The country between Indiana and California avenues was located upon and planted for miles, and cottages and mansions appeared where a year before there was a bare expanse of uncultivated plain. The laying out and building of such a grand avenue by Mr. Evans and his associates was a stroke of good business, for
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nothing so much attracted the attention of the homeseeker as this well-advertised feature of Riverside. It is undoubtedly a fact that this work had its inception in the minds of H. J. Rudisill, a brother-in-law of Mr. Evans, a gentleman of culture and taste, who was at the time secretary of the company, and of Albert S. White, . who was intimately associated with him at the time, and who pur- chased forty acres on the avenue, and planted along its front that first long row of the native palms, never before so used in the state, and which use has since been so extensively imitated in the younger towns throughout Southern California.
Not even in the prosperous years of our later history has there been a larger percentage of growth than in this, and the excellence of the work done was a factor of importance in attract- ing the wealthy and refined. They were an optimistic people, and if the years did not always bring the financial results of which they had dreamed, they lived most happy lives under the cloudless skies, and largely drew their inspiration and pleasure from "joy's anticipated hour."
In the succeeding winter there were found upon the orange trees first planted a half dozen or more of perfect seedling oranges. This was an event of immense importance to those who had waited for years for the maturing of their trees. It was a small begin- ning for a crop which now fills annually over 6,000 cars. The quality of these first specimens proved gratifyingly superior, even when sampled in comparison with the best grown elsewhere, and this first evidence of the fitness of both soil and climate gave great encouragement. The orange production of the entire state at that time did not amount to three hundred cars. It was estimated that there were then planted in Riverside some 400,000 grape vines, 75,000 orange trees, 20,000 lemons, 5,000 each of the walnut, almond, apple and pear. This estimate suggests by the varieties planted how uncertain the settlers still were as to what crop would prove the most successful. It was anticipated that there would be five hundred orange trees in bearing the coming winter. It was en- couraging to find that the snow and the hail, which had covered the ground to the hilltops in the preceding January, had not done the harm that was feared at the time. If some of the winters were cooler than was anticipated, the summers were warm enough, and ice was a luxury, and cost three cents a pound. Hundreds of
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tons were stored in the San Bernardino mountains and hauled down for use in the heated term.
Up to this year the Riverside hotel, located about where the library building now stands on Seventh street, had been the only public house in the place. Built in 1871 by Dr. William Craig and managed by him the first year, it was transferred first to the care of A. R. Smith, and in 1872 to T. J. Wood, and in 1873 Henry Fox became the landlord, resigning it, in 1877, into the hands of Dr. Craig, who kept it until destroyed by fire in 1888. But the needs of better hotel accommodations were evident, and the company erected a two-story brick hotel on Main street, extending the second story over the Burt Brothers' store, which it adjoined. The lower story was fitted for stores and the upper for the guests. R. F. Cunningham was the first landlord, and was succeeded by W. B. Wood. This building was sold, in 1888, to John Boyd, who called it the St. George hotel. It is still used as a rooming-house.
Sunnyside school district was organized out of the territory south of Jurupa avenue in 1875. A. J. Twogood, T. W. Cover and M. F. Bixler were the first trustees. They erected a school build- ing at a cost of some $700 on Central avenue. Rev. M. V. Wright was the first teacher. A few years later the increase in population made larger quarters necessary, and this building was sold to the Swedenborgian denomination, who used it as a church for many years. The name of the district was changed to Arlington and a larger school building built, under the supervision of Trustee A. S. White, on the corner of Palm avenue and Sierra street. In recent years this property was disposed of, and, under George N. Reynolds' trusteeship, fine new buildings were located for the school's use on a site near the line of the new Magnolia avenue.
Meanwhile, the growth of the original Riverside school had compelled, first, the building of a second house like the original building; and very soon both these were so overcrowded as to make necessary the construction of a four-room schoolhouse in their place on the Sixth street grounds, and this has since been enlarged to a modern eight-room building. One of the original buildings. was moved to where the Southern Pacific station now stands on Market street, where for a time it was used as a church by the. Universalist people, and the other was moved to the southeast corner of Eighth and Orange streets and used for years as a black -.
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smith shop, until wrecked to give place to the beautiful business block which now occupies that corner.
The conditions have indeed changed since '76, when the chron- icles mention the fact that a herd of antelope were one day seen from town upon the foothills near, and that on another occasion a band of some fifty mounted Indians had one day gone trooping through the village. In those days there were no cemented irri- gating canals, and often the irrigator found his water supply cut off because the gophers had undermined the main canal banks and let floods of water out upon the streets, instead of allowing it to flow for use in the orchard furrows provided.
It was in this year that the second church was erected-a little brick chapel built on Sixth street for the use of the Methodists. Some of the labor upon it, as well as the funds, were contributed by citizens who were not members of that denomination.
This being the Nation's centennial year, the citizens felt that patriotism demanded that they should have a Fourth of July cele- bration, and the desire resulted in quite a grand affair for those primitive times. Fifty carriages and wagons formed in proces- sion to take the company to the cottonwood grove in the river bottom, where H. J. Rudisill acted as president of the day, Rev. C. Day Noble delivered the oration, E. G. Brown read the Dec- laration of Independence and Judge North, R. W. Daniels, and others, responded to toasts. In the evening there were fireworks and a dance in town.
The population of the village was now about 1,000, and that of the county (San Bernardino) about 16,000. Up to this time Riv- erside had had only a tri-weekly mail, but in response to a petition forwarded, the government gave the people a daily mail which was brought over from Colton each evening on the stage.
An unsuccessful attempt was made by the San Bernardino people to get the Southern Pacific railroad to remove the line from Colton to the county seat, the expense to be met by taxation of the entire county, of which this section was then a part. A bill was introduced in the legislature to legalize such action. This attempt aroused the indignation of the Riverside people, and a large meet- ing was held and strong resolutions passed protesting against such a proposition, and the attempt failed.
The year 1877 opened dry and dusty. The winds were espe-
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cially trying, and only about three inches of rain fell during the entire season. It is usually the case in such a winter that frost is heavy, but no other winter in the history of Riverside has been so free from injurious frosts. The dry, warm air seemed to have a strange effect upon all the deciduous trees, for peaches, apples and apricots failed to leaf out, only starting a stunted foliage in many cases by July, and setting little or no fruit. The summer was extremely hot and dry, the mercury going to 112ยบ at times, and many mountain streams dried up. Many citizens sunk wells to provide themselves with better domestic water, finding it at a depth of from fifty-five to eighty feet, and generally containing traces of alkali. Most of the water previously used had been taken from the canals, and after being purified of its most objectionable qualities by cutting into it cactus leaves, for the purpose of clearing it, it was kept in ollas after the Indian method, the process furnishing a cool, if not healthful drink. Another source of water was Spring brook, from which a citizen regularly supplied customers, until the time came when piped artesian water was introduced. Up to this time there had been many cases of fever prevalent, especially dur- ing the hot season, but since the introduction of pure artesian water these epidemics have ceased.
The local merchants still found it difficult to compete against the larger stocks carried by the San Bernardino establishments, but trade was gradually improving as the population increased. Magnolia avenue was already a fine drive, and as far down as the Crawford's corner was practically all improved. The magnolias on the street corners were small, but the pepper and eucalyptus trees were growing fast, and the palms and grevilleas were orna- mental even then.
The year 1878 opened with plenty of rain, and the hillsides were green and flower-decked, the great masses of the California poppy being especially beautiful. Orchards first planted were now coming into bearing, and the prices for oranges were as high as three or four cents apiece. George North, whose ten acres was planted to a variety of fruit, contracted to sell his crop for three years for $2,000, and everybody looked forward hopefully in con- sequence.
It was during this season that the Odd Fellows' building was erected. It was originally a two-story brick building, and only
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about one-half its present length. The lower floor was used as a public hall, and furnished a place for public fairs and gatherings until other and larger buildings were built exclusively for such use.
Among the arrivals this season were many who became con- spicuous later. The Chaffey Brothers, Dr. Joseph Jarvis, and others, from Canada, settled west of Arlington, between Magnolia and California avenues. The Chaffeys, after apprenticeship at orcharding in Riverside for several years, became convinced of the possibilities everywhere offered where a water supply could be developed, organized the successful fruit-growing colony of Eti- wanda, and the magnificent settlement, which has developed into the cities now known as Ontario and Uplands. Dr. Jarvis and brother, John T. Jarvis, have remained prominent citizens of Riverside.
Two wealthy New York families located soon after on "the avenue," J. H. Benedict building the first expensive residence in the city, the one now owned by Mrs. Gillilan, and Mrs. Le Grand Lockwood the fine ranch house known as Casa Blanca. It was the husband of Mrs. Lockwood who fitted out the Hall polar expe- dition.
The government surveyors this year finished the survey of the government lands around Riverside, and titles were at last obtained by those who had so long waited. Those who had occupied railroad lands were compelled to pay the Southern Pacific company for the increased value their own improvements had created. Mr. Roe made a list of the business and professional men in Riverside this year, who numbered thirty-five in all, including in this class nur- serymen and tree-budders. Of these there are now but three still living in Riverside, these being L. C. Waite, John A. Simms and W. W. Carr.
It was during this season that an end was put to the long delay in providing a bridge across the Santa Ana river. The San Bernardino officials seemed to think that since there never had been a bridge across that uncertain stream there was no need for it, even though the population had grown so rapidly, and had repeat- edly refused to provide one. There were very heavy rains in April, and the water ran deep and swiftly. One day a party consisting of Mr. and Mrs. L. C. Tibbetts and Mrs. Tibbetts' little grand- daughter, Daisy Summons, were returning from Colton, when, in
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attempting to ford the river, the heavy farm wagon in which they were riding began to sink in the quicksand, and, overturning, cov- ered the child under the wagon body. When the Mexican horse- men, who came to the rescue, succeeded in righting the vehicle the girl was dead. This sad accident furnished an argument which even conservative San Bernardino supervisors could not with- stand, and before another winter the first bridge across the Santa Ana was constructed.
It is interesting to note that at this time there existed down the river a school district with over thirty children, where now there is none, and that its teacher, then gaining his first experience as a pedagogue, was Edward Hyatt, now filling his second four- year term as superintendent of public instruction for the state of California. In many of the intervening years he had successful charge of the San Jacinto schools in this county.
Dovenook School was the name of a private academy estab- lished this season near the corner of Central and Streeter avenues by Rev. and Mrs. C. Day Noble, where for a few years the higher branches, as well as the lower grades, were taught.
An effort was made in November, 1875, to establish a weekly newspaper in Riverside. It was called the Riverside News, and the proprietors were two young men from San Bernardino-Robert Davis and Jesse Buck. It was printed weekly until the following July, when it died for want of support. Another abortive news- paper effort was made in the fall, but Mr. Satterfield, the owner, unable to meet his bills, attempted to commit suicide, and when he left town the printing material came into the hands of Henry Rudisill, son of the company's manager. A. S. White and J. H. Roe were contributors to this paper, which was printed in a little adobe, standing on the site of the First National Bank building.
On the 28th of June, 1878, there was issued the first number of the Riverside Press. Its first editor and owner was James H. Roe, and it has continued its existence as a weekly and daily, under different owners, ever since, and steadily maintained a character which has given it an influence for good in public affairs. Telling of the starting of this first successful newspaper enterprise, Mr. Roe says: "President Evans, who desired a newspaper established here, offered to subscribe one-third of any amount raised to start the undertaking. Without this help a successful beginning could
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not have been made. To illustrate the interest generally felt in the undertaking I will mention that John Wilbur, Sr., moved the press and material from San Bernardino and would accept no payment for his service but a thank you. Robert Honbeck was the printer in charge, but Dr. John Hall and E. W. Holmes, two vet- eran printers, laid the cases and set type on the first number. We worked the paper off on an old Washington hand press, I ink- ing the forms with a roller. The building occupied was a 12x16 board shanty, standing back from Main street about where Rouse's store now stands."
In the fall of 1878 six thousand boxes of fine raisins were sold at $1.75 a box, and the results of grape growing were so satisfac- tory as to lead to more extensive planting of the raisin grape. This season H. M. Beers netted $350 an acre from his raisins, and Capt. B. B. Handy reported his net profits at $280 an acre, and many other citizens were nearly as successful.
There was organized about this time a choral society, of which the officers were: E. W. Holmes, president; James H. Roe, vice- president; C. W. Packard, secretary; B. W. Handy, treasurer; George Leach, librarian; and Prof. J. F. Deitze, musical director. An orchestra was also formed as an auxiliary, composed of Dr. C. W. Packard, George Leach, John Bonham, Edward North, D. S. Strong, W. E. Keith, J. H. Roe and E. W. Holmes. In the fall, under the musical direction of Professor Deitze, a former member of the Germania Orchestra of Boston and of prominent German bands, these organizations gave concerts of a high character, the most prominent features of which were Mr. Deitze's violin solos, with Miss Eastman as accompanist, and several fine choral numbers with orchestral accompaniment arranged by Mr. Leach. These or- ganizations assisted in many a public entertainment during several years, and went out of existence with the loss of Messrs. Deitze and Leach.
The older citizens will remember when the back portion of the block, where the Reynolds department store now stands, was largely occupied by the Chinese, mostly used as grape pickers in those days, and how rough and filthy a quarter this shanty section was in consequence. This nuisance was only abated after considerable effort, and a Chinatown created in the Arroyo, where their habits would be less offensive. Owing to the substitution of the orange
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and lemon for the apricot and grape as a principal crop, and the use of a different class of laborers to handle it, the Chinese are no longer largely employed in Riverside, notwithstanding that they are preferred by many to those who have been substituted.
The Citrus Fair had its origin in Riverside, where it was a popular and attractive feature long before its value was fully appreciated elsewhere. Originally instituted for the purpose of comparing and studying varieties and methods of cultivation, pack- ing and marketing, it had such attractions, from an esthetic stand- point, as to make these annual exhibits of fruit and flowers popu- lar with all classes, and the interest in them drew a large attend- ance from all portions of the state. The first of these fairs was held in the Odd Fellows' building, in February, 1879, the fruit exhibit being placed in the hall on the ground floor and the lodge- room above was used as a convention hall. The committee in charge consisted of S. C. Evans, G. D. Carlton, Albert S. White, H. J. Rudisill, L. C. Waite, P. S. Russell, E. J. Davis, D. C. Two- good, Thomas W. Cover, James Bettner and E. W. Holmes. Many men prominent in public affairs, as well as those personally inter- ested in the horticultural development of the state, were in attend- ance and participated in the discussions. Among these were Gen- eral Stoneman (afterwards governor), Hon. J. De Barth Shorb, Gen. J. H. Shields, General Vallejo, Hon. Elwood Cooper, Dr. Conger of Pasadena, Hon. J. F. Crank, L. M. Holt, Mr. Chapman, and others. The participation of so many distinguished citizens from distant portions of the state indicated appreciation of the work Riverside was doing even in these early days. The exhibit was a most beautiful and novel one. It included fruit from every southern county, and the affair proved so attractive and valuable that it insured the holding of these annual fairs through a long series of years, and the ultimate building of a large pavilion in Riverside better adapted for such exhibitions.
Riverside was now becoming prosperous and attracting a larger proportion of the well-to-do, and it was laughingly said of her by envious neighbors that it was "a place where everybody had a piano and a top-buggy," which comment certainly could not have been suggested by the conditions existing a half dozen years previous. That there were some grounds for anticipating pros- perity is shown by the results chronicled regarding the returns
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obtained this season from some of the first seedling trees planted. One orange tree, planted by Dr. Shugart in a sheltered position near the house on Ninth street, now owned by Mrs. Maynard, had, when nine years old, produced sixty oranges, the following year five hundred, and in 1879 it produced two thousand seedling oranges, which sold for $37 a thousand. This tree, therefore, brought the owner $74 from a single crop. Is it any wonder that the orchardist who thus saw common seedling oranges sell at $10 net per box, and remembered that he had a hundred trees on each acre, got a little over-sanguine over the prospects, and for a time forgot the possibility of an over-supplied market? Raisin grapes were also paying splendidly. Shugart & Waite picked twelve tons of muscat grapes from an acre and a quarter vineyard, and A. P. Combs and R. H. Henderson netted a profit of over $350 an acre from their raisins, the twenty-pound boxes bringing $2 each. To insure the maintaining of a high-grade pack of raisins a Fruit Growers' Association was organized with G. W. Garcelon as presi- dent, and H. A. Westbrook was appointed inspector to see that all packers complied with the rules adopted. The production of raisins increased until the output exceeded 200,000 boxes annually, but when the industry developed in the Fresno section, over-produc- tion brought down prices, so that Riverside vineyards were nearly all transformed either into orange orchards or alfalfa fields. Apri- cots were paying handsomely at this time, but the extravagant expectations regarding the profits of citrus fruit-growing unfor- tunately led to the neglect of this fruit.
On January 1, 1880, L. M. Holt of Los Angeles, who had had considerable successful experience as the publisher of a horticul- tural magazine, purchased the "Riverside Press" from Mr. Roe, enlarged the paper, and changed its name to the "Press and Hor- ticulturist." Mr. Holt was a boomer by temperament and training. He believed in the future of horticulture in Southern California, and gave effective and energetic work in advertising it, and the growing town in which for several years he made his home. He did not "hide his light under a bushel," but Riverside shared in the illumination, and gained recognition abroad largely through his efforts. This paper later became a semi-weekly, and finally a daily, and in 1888 was purchased by Messrs. E. W. Holmes, James H. Roe and Reverdy J. Pierson. Messrs. Roe & Pierson had pur-
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chased a weekly paper known as the Valley Echo, of which J. A. Studebaker was the first owner, and this, with several other papers that had vainly tried to exist in the limited field, were merged in the Daily Press, with Mr. Holmes as managing editor.
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