USA > California > Riverside County > History of San Bernardino and Riverside counties, Volume I > Part 36
USA > California > San Bernardino County > History of San Bernardino and Riverside counties, Volume I > Part 36
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THE luxuriant growth of tropic and semi-tropic vegetation makes the creation of a garden or the beautifying of a home a pleasure.
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newspaper, and the Upland's Library Association is a body which has been developed to a high standard of perfection and service. The fraternal bodies represented are the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, the Fraternal Brotherhood, the Modern Woodmen of America and the Daughters of Rebekah.
NEEDLES. In 1883 when the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad crossed the Colorado River, there was established a little way station, which, because of its proximity to the mountains of the same name, was given the name of Needles. At that time no one saw any future for the com- munity save the shrewd railroad men who knew the value of the water supply so easily and advantageously to be utilized. The Southern Pacific Railroad had graded from Mojave, California, across the desert and at Needles joined tracks with the Atlantic & Pacific, to whom it later leased its lines, and the latter road in time was absorbed by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe. The first white settlers of Needles were the employes of the railroad company, for whose convenience Halsey Brothers conducted a small store and Monaghan & Murphy started a business establishment. The senior member of this concern, Frank Monaghan, was the first justice of the peace, and Dan Murphy was the first constable and deputy sheriff. The first school at Needles was founded in 1886, and was held in a small pole and dirt house, but was later removed to a railroad tool house. About 1890 a school building was erected, which, with its ground, cost the district about $20,000. This was destroyed by fire in 1899, and was subsequently rebuilt. In 1903 a high school course was added. In 1888 a Catholic church was erected at Needles, and since then a parochial residence has been added to the church property. The church of the Congregationalists was built in 1893, at the corner of C and Second streets. The Episcopalians likewise have their own structure, located on Second Street.
In 1888 Dr. J. P. Booth and F. H. Harberd founded the first Needles newspaper, Our Bazoo, and in 1890 E. E. Booth, of the Winslow News, purchased Mr. Harberd's interest and moved his plant to the desert town. The paper at that time was enlarged and the name changed to Booth's Bazoo. In 1891 the name was converted to The Needle's Eye, being named for the hole which nature has placed through the apex of one of the pinnacles of the Needles mountains. The climate of Needles is equable and mild except about two months in summer, when the thermometer reaches above the 100 mark, but by reason of the absolute absence of moisture in the atmosphere, the heat fails to create anything but excessive perspiration.
Needles at the present time-1921-has a Chamber of Commerce, Dr. C. E. Stanter, president ; also Methodist, Episcopal, Christian and Catholic churches, with an Indian manse. In the winter time the families return and the activities of community life take on much of social life. The population is about 4,000. The "Needles' Nugget," a splendid paper, is published every Friday. The newspaper company consists of F. B. Gabbert, president ; L. V. Root, vice president ; W. T. Henderson, secre- tary-treasurer. The Santa Fe has a large complement of men engaged in its mechanical and train service.
VICTORVILLE AND VICTOR VALLEY. Victor Valley lies on the north side of San Bernardino and Sierra Madre Mountains, just north of Cajon Pass, in San Bernardino County. The higher portions of the valley have an elevation of nearly 4,000 feet and it slopes gradually towards the north until at Daggett, 65 miles north of Cajon Summit, the
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elevation is approximately 2,000 feet. The various valleys known by the general name of Victor Valley are: Lucerne, 25 miles east of Victorville ; Apple Valley, a few miles east and south of Victorville; Mojave Valley, on both sides of the Mojave River, below Victorville; Summit Valley, on the headwaters of the West Fork of the Mojave River ; Baldy Mesa, 12 to 25 miles southwest from Victorville; Sunrise Valley, directly west of Victorville. These valleys have a combined acreage of arable land of more than 350,000 acres.
The Mojave River heads in the San Bernardino Mountains and runs due north for more than 50 miles, then swings in an easterly direction. The Mojave River is the only one in the State that flows due north, and the only river in the State without an outlet into some other river or ocean-it sinks out on the Mojave desert.
Victorville is a town of about 750 people, and is not incorporated. It lies about in the center of Victor Valley, on the Mojave River, 44 miles north of San Bernardino. The main lines of the Santa Fe and Salt Lake railroads pass through it. The town has good schools, with eleven teachers ; an M. E. church ; a weekly newspaper, the Victor-Valley-News- Herald; one drug store, ice manufacturing plant, three hotels, and one bank, the officers of which are: C. M. Moon, president; George R. Searls, vice president; John Christenson, secretary; S. A. Hedding, treasurer. There is in Victorville a plant which manufactures fibre from a desert plant commonly called Spanish dagger. This fibre is used for binding twine and rope. Near the town is the Southwestern Portland Cement Company's plant, manufacturing 2,500 barrels of cement per day. At Oro Grande, five miles north, is located the Golden Gate Cement Co.'s plant, with a capacity of 1,000 bbls. per day. The former company employs 125 men : monthly payroll is $20,000; the latter employs 80 men with a monthly payroll of $12,000.
The elevation of Victorville is 2,710 feet. There are about 2,500 acres planted to deciduous fruits in Victor Valley and 1,500 acres of alfalfa and about 8,000 tons were grown in 1920. Victor Valley Union High School District consists of the following elementary districts : Apple Valley, Baldy Messa, Big Bear Lake, Hesperia, Lucerne, Midway, Mirage Valley, Oro Grande, Sheep Creek, Sunrise, Victor. The district has a valuation of $2,644,450.
YUCAIPA. Yucaipa Valley is 8 miles from Redlands and 72 miles from Los Angeles, with paved highways topping the valley, and con- necting with Southern California's famous system of good roads. It is a mountain locked mesa, varying in altitude from 2,000 to 3,000 feet. To the northeast rises Mount San Bernardino, at a distance of only eight miles ; to the east is San Gorgonia, to the southeast is San Jacinto.
The valley embraces 15,000 acres of tillable land, about 5,000 acres are planted to trees, and bearing. Included in this acreage is the old-time Dunlap ranch, familiar to all old Southern Californians. Yucaipa Valley is known and recognized as one of the proven apple districts of Cali- fornia.
It is to California, what Hood River Valley is to Oregon, what Grand River Valley is to Colorado, and what Yakima Valley is to Washington. In 1920, eleven million pounds of apples were shipped out. Yucaipa apples are known in every principal market in the United States.
Cherrycroft, the largest cherry orchard in Southern California, is in Yucaipa, and in 1920, 10,000 people visited this famous orchard and show place.
There is an active Chamber of Commerce at Yucaipa, with S. H. Smith, as president ; J. L. Messenger, vice president, and Chester Ferris,
UPPER END, YUCAIPA VALLEY, WHERE THE BIG RED APPLE GROWS
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secretary-treasurer. The executive committee, in addition to the presi- dent and vice president, are : E. Carter, R. F. Gill and P. B. Hassbrouck.
The Congregational church is the pioneer in the Valley, emphasizing community features ; Rev. Chester Ferris, minister : Methodist, with the Rev. Nelson Hoffpauir, pastor. Both of these churches own quite well equipped modern buildings. There is a Baptist church, with Rev. Harold Doty, pastor. A Farm Bureau, with F. N. Henny, secretary, fills many needs. The Woman's Club, erected a very creditable new building the past year, valued at about $15,000. The president is Mrs. M. A. Dunham, the secretary, Mrs. L. P. Black, and treasurer is Mrs. F. H. Henny.
DEVORE HEIGHTS. When the late John A. Devore twenty years or more ago purchased about 1,800 acres of the now productive bench land on the main line of the Santa Fe Railroad, the company promptly adopted the name "Devore," thus honoring the public-spirited man who, by his liberal investments, demonstrated his faith in Devore Heights. The com- pany has expended nearly $7,000 in the construction of a handsome and substantial station, and it has become an important shipping point on the line of the Santa Fe. The prosperous settlement established by Mr. Devore is marked by the erection of many beautiful buildings, enhanced in charm by the creation of stone walls, which border the winding drives that lead to one of the most beautiful parks found anywhere. Before Mr. Devore became the owner of ranch, now known as "Devore Heights," the acreage was scarcely more than a runway for rabbits-a sage-brush wilderness. Now the fertile fields stretch away to the edge of the moun- tains. Mr. Devore, the founder, passed away in February, 1907.
BIG BEAR VALLEY is a land of romance, the land of an old-time gold excitement (with a gold mine still in operation), its cattle grazing and its resorts. It is a high plateau, nearly 7,000 feet above sea level, guarded by giant peaks of San Gorgonia. towering 11.485 feet, San Bernardino and Sugar Loaf, each over 10,000 feet high. Cradled on its bosom is this pleasant valley, wooded with giant pines which surround the waters of a lake twelve miles long and from three to four miles wide. Big Bear Lake is artificial, being formed by the construction of an immense dam ; to the northeast is a natural lake. "Baldwin Lake." named for "Lucky Baldwin," of old-time racing fame. The Rim of the World Highway nasses around the lake, making the turn as it drops from an altitude of 8.000 feet. on the crest. down to the shimmering waters.
Away back in the '60s and '70s Gus Knight. Sr .. commenced to lay the foundations of the valley's present-day fame, with his cattle ranch, and Gus Knight, Jr., hurried up the glories with the first mountain resort. The completion of the Rim of the World Highway along the mountain crest stimulated efforts of all who were making improvements on the mountains.
William Talmage went into the valley in 1892 and has been there ever since. He bought the I. S. Ranch and the I. S. Brand; and with the famous "brand" goes a story. A man by the name of James Smart owned the ranch and desiring a "brand" for branding his cattle. made the form with the letters T. S. and went to Los Angeles to have it cast and returned to Big Bear Valley, rounded up his herds of cattle and commenced opera- tions of branding ; then it was discovered that the little crook of the letter "T" had been lost on the way to Los Angeles-the only place in those days where castings were made-leaving an "I"-"I. S." Forty years ago it was a long. long way from Big Bear Valley to Los Angeles-a week then, as against four hours in 1921. There was nothing else to do but use
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the abbreviated brand with the "I. S." Today that brand is kept locked in a safe, and is worth a mint of money. So Mr. Talmage came into pos- session of the 1640-acre ranch and the "Brand." In 1913 his brothers John and Frank became associated with him in the cattle business. In the year 1921 the Talmage Brothers' returns from their cattle sales were 200,000 pounds. That of the Shay and Barker Company the same amount and the Grimes-Hitchcock (Holcomb Valley), 150,000 pounds.
In 1913 there were two resorts; in the fall of 1921, fifty-two, some with a half dozen cabins, others with a hundred. At that time less than a hundred homes were owned ; at this time over a thousand. It has grown into quite a city, with all advantages and comforts that may he found in the valleys. Community spirit is expressed in thorough organization, and the Chamber of Commerce of Big Bear Valley with its 300 members is actively concerned in all that means advancement.
During the winter a small percentage of the people remain there, but in the height of the summer season well on to 20,000 people enjoy its delights. The winter of 1921 has been the first time that a concentrated effort was made to keep open the roads during the cold weather. In this work the Chamber of Commerce is busy, although most of its members are in the valley. The officers of the Chamber of Commerce are: Presi- dent, William Talmage ; secretary, S. A. Skinner ; treasurer, Mr. Garber. Mrs. Margaret Betterly, chairman of hospitality committee, is a big factor in the progress going on up there in the green valley on the hilltops.
Mr. F. C. (Dad) Skinner and a large number of capitalists of Red- lands and Los Angeles exploit every natural feature of Big Bear Valley, with a vision before them of a wonderful city above the clouds. In the fall of 1921 the Chamber of Commerce of Big Bear Valley, the Forest Reserve and the Rim of the World-all so closely connected in mutual interests-arranged for a beautiful feature for the National Orange Show, held in San Bernardino-typical of mountain activities in all its various phases.
CAMP CAJON. On the north and east of San Bernardino Valley are the San Bernardino Mountains and beyond them the vast Mojave Desert. Through this high mountain range is a natural gap-a parting of the heights-a winding, tortuous passage, dividing the mountains and uniting the white sands on the north with the green lands of the south.
This is Cajon Pass. Cajon-pronounced cah-hone with the second syllable strongly accented-is the Spanish word for "box." Because a portion of the defile is walled by high cliffs, the early Spaniards chris- tened a portion of it "Paso del Cajon"-Box Pass. Through this pass comes the National Old Trails Highway, now paved from San Bernardino to Summit, a distance of 26 miles. It parallels the long abandoned and almost obliterated Santa Fe Trail over which, in 1849, and in the early '50s, the Pioneers came to lay the foundations for a Southland empire.
At the point in the Pass where the old trail from Salt Lake joined the one from the Santa Fe there stands a tall monument, erected in honor of those hardy adventurers. It was built in 1917 by the survivors of the forty-niners and their descendants and was dedicated on December 23 of the same year.
A short distance northward from the monument, and just 20 miles from San Bernardino, is Camp Cajon, a welcome station for the incoming motor traveler, which an eastern writer has termed "California's Granite Gate." It, too, is a monument dedicated to the present and the future as the pioneers' monument is to the past. Camp Cajon is the conception of William M. Bristol, orange grower, poet and dreamer of Highland, 25
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miles southeastward. Mr. Bristol first dreamed his dream of Camp Cajon at the dedication of the Pioneers' Monument.
Thirty years before, Mrs. J. C. Davis, a Wisconsin woman, who had spent a winter in California and had returned home, wrote and published a poem entitled "The Overland Trail," a graphic pen picture of the old trail as seen from the windows of a modern Pullman car. Mr. Bristol was present at the dedication of the monument for the purpose of read- ing this poem as a part of the formal program. It is an interesting fact that Mrs. Davis had returned to California and was residing at Devore,
SCENES AT CAMP CAJON
at the southern portal of the Pass. Without knowing that she was to contribute in any way to the ceremonies of the day, she was taken into the Bristol family car and was present to hear her poem unexpectedly read nearly a third of a century after it was written.
At the close of the ceremonies the throng adjourned to the willow grove, where Camp Cajon now stands, and, sitting on the sandy ground, at a picnic dinner. It was then and there that the need of permanent conveniences for such an occasion occurred to Mr. Bristol, and on that day he began the formulation of the plans for making his dream come true. In May, 1919, he pitched his tent in the willow grove, then a jungle, intending to take a two months' vacation from his orange grove, and build a dozen concrete dining tables, each with benches of the same
Vol. 1-17
B. P. O. E. CLUB HOUSE, CAMP CAJON
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massive and indestructible type. That was the extent of his original dream. But so enthusiastically was his innovation received by the world at large, and especially by Southern California, that his vacation was stretched to two years; and when he finally resigned as director and returned to his home, there were fifty-five tables instead of the dozen, besides numerous other structures not contemplated in the original plans. He was not only architect, but artisan, much of the actual work of con- struction being done by himself, personally, the ornamental mosaics of dark and white stone and the hundred or more metal tablets on the tables and buildings being his own handiwork. A wealth of beautiful blue granite boulders near at hand inspired and aided in the building of various structures which promise to stand for all time.
Perhaps the most elaborate structure at the camp is the Elks' outpost clubhouse, erected by all the Elks' lodges of Southern California at a cost of several thousand dollars and dedicated to loyal Elks of the world. It affords conveniences for serving a meal to half a hundred people, and, standing and facing upon California's most popular transcontinental high- way, it also proclaims that the order stands ready to meet and greet all comers to the Southland. Across its face, in beautiful mosaic of dark and white stone are the initials, "B. P. O. E.," and above this in the same artistic stonework, is the Elks' clock, with its hands pointing to the mystic hour of eleven. Below is a metal tablet carrying the entire text of Arthur Chapman's poem, "Out Where the West Begins." Elsewhere is a double tablet carrying John S. McGroarty's favorite poem, "Just California." And on the camp flag column are four stanzas of Charles L. Frazer's poem. "The Flag." Each table and stove, each broiler and barbecue pit carries a tablet with an inscription, and the name of the donor. Perhaps the spirit of Camp Cajon is best and most briefly expressed in two tablets which read, "To the desert-weary traveler," and "To the stranger within our gates." The following is the list of tables, stoves and so on, with donors and main part of inscriptions: Twenty miles to San Bernardino, the Gate City and home of the National Orange Show. Thirty miles to Redlands and famous Smily Heights. Twenty- three miles to Colton, the Hub City, where industry reigns. Twenty-five miles to East Highlands, the Buckle of the Citrus Belt. Twenty-three miles to Highland, gateway to City Creek and Rim of the World. Thirty- five miles to Mirage Valley, where things grow without irrigation. Twelve miles to Sheepcreek, watered and fertile valley. Ten miles to Baldy Mesa, where things grow without irrigation. Forty-five miles to Chino, where everything grows. Twenty-three miles north of Adalanto, the transformed desert. Twenty miles to Apple Valley, where apples keep the doctor away. Twenty-three miles to Lucerne Valley, land of abundant shallow water. Sixty-one miles to Barstow, metropolis of Mojave Valley. Twenty-four miles to Victorville, center of Victor Valley. Fourteen miles to Hesperia, gateway to Big Bear Valley. Seventy miles to Santa Ana. county seat of Orange County. At the south portal of Cajon Pass, Devore, the home of the muscat grape. Twenty miles to Del Rosa, beneath the Arrowhead. Twenty miles to Arrowhead Hot Springs, hottest springs known. Twenty miles to Rialto's orange grove. Twenty-three miles to Fontana, largest orange grove in the world. Twenty-five miles to Bloomington, orange and lemon empire. Thirty- five miles to beautiful Etiwanda, home of the grape and the lemon. Thirty-five miles to Cucamonga, with its peaches, grapes and "welcomes." Forty miles to Ontario, model city, offers opportunity. Thirty-five miles oceanward to Upland, and Euclid Avenue. To all nature lovers, by the employees of the State Hospital at Patten. Dedicated to checker players
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by the family of John Andreson, Sr., pioneer of 1850. To the "Stranger within our gates," by the family of David H. Wixom. The "West to the East ever calls," Hiram Clark and family. Dedicated to the people of Needles by George E. Butler. Dedicated to the people of Cloverdale, Michigan, by Mrs. Chas. H. Schaffer of Marquette, Mich. To commemo- rate the visit of the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, dedication tour, April 28, 1920. In honor of Fred T. Perris, who, in 1884, led the iron horse through Cajon Pass. To the Pioneers of San Bernardino Valley, by Native Sons who have gone afield. (Judge B. F. Bledsoe, Paul Shoup and others). To our Pioneers, by Arrowhead Parlor, Native Sons. To the Trailmakers, by officers and men of Santa Fe. To Highway Builders, by officers and men of Santa Fe. Redlands Rotary Club, with Rotary emblem. Riverside Rotary Club, with Rotary emblem. San Bernardino Rotary Club, with double table, and international Rotary emblem. "The groves were God's first temples," by W. M. Parker. "Now good diges- tion wait on appetite, and health on both," by A. C. Denman, Jr. "To the desert-weary traveler," by W. J. Hanford. A bake-oven, dedicated to the baking public, by W. J. Hanford. A family broiler, dedicated to the broiling public, by C. G. Lundholm. A pump, dedicated to the "drink- ing public," by W. D. Anderson. A community broiler, "Max Aron bids you broil your steak." A big range. Orange County. One barbecue pit. dedicated to the "barbecuing public," by W. J. Curtis, J. W. Curtis, Henry Goodcell, Rex B. Goodcell, Herman Harris, John Andreson, Jr., Joseph E. Rich, W. E. Leonard, E. E. Katz and Mrs. F. M. Towne. Flag column, erected by the Native Sons of Illinois, as tribute to the State of their adoption. "I love you, California." Column, its mosaics and tablets, the handiwork of W. M. Bristol, contributed by him. Flag pole, gift of J. B. Gill, formerly Lieutenant-governor of Illinois. Large tablet carrying four stanzas, Chas. L. Frazer's poem, "The Flag."
Elevation 3,002 feet.
THE ARROWHEAD-AND LEGENDS. A million men have wondered concerning the formation of the marvelous prehistoric landmark known as the Arrowhead, so clearly pictured upon the mountainside, six miles northeast of San Bernardino. Although the exact origin of the Arrow- head is apparently still undetermined, numerous legends, dealing with its supernatural creation, combining the fancy of superstition with the romance of fiction, have been extant among the Indian tribes and early settlers for many generations.
By actual measurement, the Arrowhead is 1,375 feet long and 449 feet wide, comprising an area of 71/2 acres. The material of which it is composed is different in formation from adjacent parts of the mountain, consisting chiefly of disintegrated white quartz, and light gray granite, and supporting a growth of short white sage and weeds This lighter vegetation shows in sharp contrast to the dark green growth of surround- ing chapparal and greasewood. Not a few believe that this natural mark was made by a mountain cloudburst. This wonderfully formed symbol is a distinctive feature of the locality : it may be seen as far as the side of the mountain is in sight and is used as a display mark by many busi- ness concerns as well as some organizations.
Doctor D. N. Smith, who about 1860. sought to improve the boiling sulphurous springs at the base of the mountain, had a unique arrowhead story to tell. According to him, when a young lad. at a time when his father, who was a sufferer from consumption, lay sick unto death, an angel appeared to him in a vision, and pictured a place at the foot of a mountainside designated hy a pointing arrowhead, where his father might
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be cured. Some years later, when Dr. Smith, coming to the San Ber- nardino Valley, saw the sign upon the mountain which he then named Arrowhead, he recalled the vision. Visiting the foot of the mountain, he found the springs which he discovered to be possessed of valuable medi- cinal properties and great curative powers.
COAHUILLA LEGEND. Generations ago, when the Evil Spirit dwelt in the mountains, the Coahuillas were a race of giants. Now the Evil Spirit took supreme delight in making life miserable for them. His favorite form of amusement was to roll down from the mountains huge boulders upon their rancheria and to pour drenching floods of water over the valley. The Indians naturally enough became weary of these mischievous attentions and wishing to arrange some sort of truce, one autumn day, after the evil one had been especially active, decided to seek council with him.
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