USA > California > San Diego County > San Diego > History of San Diego, 1542-1908 : an account of the rise and progress of the pioneer settlement on the Pacific coast of the United States, Volume I > Part 13
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OLD SAN DIEGO IN 1846
couple were seated at the head with the father spiritual on the right, and the father temporal on the left. Dinner being over, part of the company retired to their homes, whilst some of the younger adjourned to a booth, which was prepared in the courtyard, sufficiently large to contain several hundred people. Here they daneed awhile, and then retired. Early in the evening, people, invited and uninvited, began to fill up the booth, and soon dancing commenced. The music consisted of two violins and a guitar, on which were performed many beautiful waltzes and contra dances, together with a great number of local melodies, During the evening all took active part in the amusement, and as the poorer classes exhibited their graceful performances, the two fathers, from an ele- vated position, threw at their feet, silver dollars and doub- loons. The fandango . lasted until the morning light
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FUNERAL CUSTOMS
appeared, accompanied with all the variety customary on such occasions.
On the next day, Father Antonio, as a further compliment to the bride, had dinner prepared in the corridor of the Mission -the table reaching from one end to the other, and the place being adorned with flags. Here all the town was invited to participate, when old and young, rich and poor, lame and blind, black and white, joined in the feast. For several succeeding nights the fandango was repeated at the booth, and they had enough of feasting and dancing intermingled with the amuse- ments of the Carnestolendas [shrove-tide] to last them for some time.
The usual season for Carnestolendas is during the three days previous to Ash Wednesday, but here they commence two weeks earlier. Whilst these amusements last, it is dangerous for one to go into a house where he is aequainted, for he is liable to be well drenched with Cologne or scented water. This is aceom- plished by the following preparatory process. As many eggs as may be required, are emptied of their contents, by perforating a hole at each end, through which they are blown by the mouth. The shells are afterwards immersed in a large basin of prepared essences, with which they are partly filled, and the holes then sealed with wax. Thus made ready, they are broken upon the heads of individuals; but it must be under- stood, that this is done only where great intimacy exists be- tween the parties. Oftentimes invitations are given for a seleet company to assemble at a specified place, when all attend at the time appointed, "armed and equipped " for a battle with the eggs. On such oeeasions, as the excitement grows warm, and the ammunition becomes nearly exhausted, they resort to wet napkins, which they slap at each other. From these they have recourse to tumblers of water, and from these to pitchers, and from pitchers to bnekets, until, tired and exhausted by the exercise, they desist!
Even a funeral was made the occasion of feasting and dane- ing. Dana thus describes his first encounter with this custom in Santa Barbara:
Inquiring for an American who, we had been told, had mar- ried in the place, and kept a shop, we were directed to a long, low building, at the end of which was a door with a sign over it in Spanish. Entering the shop, we found no one in it, and the whole had a deserted appearance. In a few min- utes the man made his appearance, and apologized for having nothing to entertain us with, saying that he had had a fan- dango at his house the night before, and the people had eaten and drunk up everything. "Oh, yes!" said I, "Easter holi- days." "No," said he, with a singular expression on his face, "I had a little daughter die the other day, and that's the custom of the country."
At this I felt a little strangely, not knowing what to say, or whether to offer consolation or no, and was beginning to retire when he opened a side-door and told us to walk in. Here I was no less astonished; for I found a large room filled with young girls from three or four years of age up to fif- teen or sixteen, dressed all in white, with wreaths of flowers
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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO
their heads and bouquets in their hands. Follow- ing our conductor among all these girls, who were play- ing about in high spirits, we came to a table at the end of the room, covered with a white cloth, on which lay a coffin about three feet long with the body of his child. Through an open door we saw in another room a few elderly people in common dresses; while the benches and tables thrown up in a corner and the stained walls gave evident signs of last night's "high go."
Later in the day, the sailors rode out to the Mission and overtook the funeral procession. The coffin was borne by eight girls, who were continually relieved by others, running forward from the procession and taking their places. Behind it came a straggling company of girls, dressed as before, in white and flowers, and ineluding, I should suppose by their numbers, all the girls between five and fifteen in the place. They played along on the way, frequently stopping and run- ning altogether to talk to some one, or to pick up a flower, and then running on again to overtake the coffin. There were a few elderly women in common colors; and a herd of young men and boys, some on foot and others mounted, followed them, or walked or rode by their side, frequently interrupting them by jokes or questions. But the most singular thing of all was that two men walked, one on each side of the coffin, carrying muskets in their hands, which they continually loaded and fired into the air.
Some of the things at which Dana wondered seem natural and beautiful enough. Mrs. Whaley describes a funeral at Old San Diego, which was very similar. except that the body was carried on a bier and not placed in the coffin until the cemetery was reached. A priest walked before, saying prayers, and the musicians walked on both sides playing violins, guitars, and other instruments. At the rear followed a man with firecrack- ers which he was setting off as they moved.
The last interment in the cemetery within the presidial enclosure was that of Captain Fitch, in 1849. Nothing now remains to show that the spot was ever used for such a purpose. The Catholic cemetery on the mesa was used until February. 1874, when the large new cemetery, on the hill above the town. was laid out under Father Ubach's direction, and has been in use ever since.
On the subject of dancing and other amusements. it is again convenient to draw upon Robinson. Don Juan Bandini had his house blessed during the stay of Gale and Robinson at San Diego in 1829, and they were invited to attend.
The ceremony took place at noon, when the chaplain pro- cceled through the different apartments, sprinkling holy water upon the walls, and uttering verses in Latin. This concluded, wo sat down to an excellent dinner, consisting of all the lux- uries the place afforded, provided in Don Juan's best style. As soon as the eloth was removed, the guitar and the violin
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BLESSING BANDINI'S HOUSE
were put in requisition, and a dance began. It lasted, how- ever, but a little while, for it was necessary for them to spare their exertions for the evening fandango. So poco a poco [little by little], all gradually retired to their homes,
At an early hour the different passages leading to the house were enlivened with men, women, and children, hurrying to the danee; for on such occasions it was customary for every- body to attend without waiting for the formality of an invi- tation. A crowd of leperos [dependents] was collected about the door when we arrived, now and then giving its shouts of approbation to. the performances within, and it was with some difficulty we forced our entrance. Two persons were upon the floor dancing el jarabe. They kept time to the music, by drumming with their feet, on the heel and toe system, with such precision, that the sound struck harmoniously upon the ear, and the admirable execution would not have done injus- tice to a pair of drumsticks in the hands of an able professor. The attitude of the female dancer was erect, with her head a little inclined to the right shoulder, as she modestly cast her eyes to the floor, whilst her hands gracefully held the skirts of her dress, suspending it above the ankle so as to expose to the company the execution of her feet .. Her partner, who might have been one of the interlopers at the door, was under full speed of locomotion, and rattled away with his feet with wonderful dexterity. His arms were thrown carelessly behind his back, and secured, as they crossed, the point of his serape [sash], that still held its place upon his shoulders. Neither had he doffed his sombrero, but just as he stood when gazing from the crowd, he had placed himself upon the floor.
The conclusion of this performance gave us an opportunity to edge our way along towards the extremity of the room, where a door communicated with an inner apartment. Here we placed ourselves, to witness in a most favorable position the amusements of the evening. The room was about fifty feet in length, and twenty wide, modestly furnished, and its sides crowded with smiling faces. Upon the floor were accom- modated the children and Indian girls, who, close under the vigilance of their parents and mistresses, took part in the scene. The musicians again commencing a lively tune, one of the managers approached the nearest female, and, clapping his hands in accompaniment to the music, succeeded in bring- ing her into the centre of the room. Here she remained awhile, gently tapping with her feet upon the floor, and then giving two or three whirls, skipped away to her seat. Another was clapped out, and another, till the manager had passed the compliment throughout the room. This is called a son, and there is a custom among the men, when a dancer proves par- ticularly attractive to anyone, to place his hat upon her head, while she stands thus in the middle of the room, which she retains until redeemed by its owner, with some trifling pres- ent. During the performance of the dances, three or four male voices occasionally took part in the music, and towards the end of the evening, from repeated applications of aguardiente [brandy], they become quite boisterous and discordant.
The waltz was now introduced, and ten or a dozen couple whirled gaily around the room, and heightened the charms of
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the dance by the introduction of numerous and interesting figures. Between the dances refreshments were handed to the ladies, whilst in an adjoining apartment, a table was prepared for the males, who partook without ceremony. The most inter- esting of all their dances is the contra danza, and this, also, may be considered the most graceful. Its figures are intri- cate, and in connection with the waltz, form a charming com- bination. These fandangos usually hold out till daylight, and at intervals the people at the door are permitted to introduce their jarabes and jotas.
The bamba was a favorite dance, in which the lady would often dance with a glass of water poised on her head, or with her feet muffled in a handkerchief. The jota and the zorrita were daneed by couples and accompanied by singing. The con- tra-danza was indulged in by the better classes and young persons seldom participated.
Before 1800, few houses had other than an earth floor, and the dancing was done upon the ground, which from constant use became very hard. A wooden platform was constructed, upon
BANDINI HOUSE, OLD TOWN, (PRESENT APPEARANCE)
which the women and more skillful males might dance. After the ball was over, the men in groups accompanied the women to their homes, playing music as they went. After this, they would sometimes ride about the streets and sing or indulge in rougher sports.
"How often," exclaims Doña Refugia de Bandini, "did we spend half the night at a tertulia till 2 o'clock in the morning, in the most agreeable and distinguished society. Our house would be full of company-thirty or forty persons at the table ; it would have to be set twice. A single fiesta might cost $1,000, but . in those days the receipts at my husband's store were
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THE GAY FIESTAS
$18,000 a month. The prettiest women were to be found at San Diego."
"Ah, what times we used to have, " exclaims another. "every week to La Playa, aboard the ships-silks! officers! rebozos! musie ! dancing ! frolic !"
These "good times" continned until long after the American occupation and formed the pleasantest part of the recollections of old settlers now living. "We used to have great times here," says one, "real jolly good times. The people didn't think of anything else, then, but pleasure and amusement. We used to have fandangos, or little parties, at night. We could get up one of these balls in a couple of hours. There was horse-racing. too." Mrs. Whaley relates that on the day of her arrival, the 8th of December. 1853, there was a festival and ball at the Gila House and she was prevailed upon to go. "We had splendid dances there." she says. "The musicians were Californians and played only Spanish airs. They looked as if they were asleep while they played. I remember particularly the cascoroncs- eggs filled with tinsel and cologne water, which were broken over the heads of the daneers. I have had many a cascarone broken on my head. The suppers were also fine, but at first I found the Spanish cooking too highly seasoned for my taste."
The frequent fiestas were one of the most highly prized fea- tures of the social life of early days, and one which persisted after nearly all the other characteristic anmsements had passed away. In the Herald of September 3. 1853. Lieut. Derby wrote : "The great event of the past week has been the fiesta at San Luis Rey. Many of our citizens attended, and a very large mim- ber of native Californians and Indians collected from the vari- ous ranchos in the vicinity. High mass was celebrated in the old church on Thursday morning, an Indian baby was baptized. another nearly killed by being run over by an excited individ- ual on an excited horse, and that day and the following were passed in witnessing the absurd efforts of some twenty natives to annoy a number of tame bulls, with the tips of their horns cut off. This great national amusement; ironieally termed bull- fighting, consists in waving a serape, or handkerchief. in front of the bull until he is sufficiently annoyed to run after his tor- mentor, when that individual gets out of his way, with great precipitation. The nights are passed in an equally intellectual manner.''
On August 28, 1858, Editor Ames says: "Our quiet village was nearly deserted during the whole of last week, the greater portion of our citizens being absent at the Feast. We have heard it estimated that 3,000 persons were present at San Luis Rey during the Feast week."
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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO
Horse-racing was a common source of diversion and was in- dulged in by all classes. No feast day passed without a num- her of races, which were always attended with great interest and sometimes large sums of money were lost and won. They were usually run by two horses, in short heats of from two to four hundred yards. Dana found the population greatly inter- ested and exeited by these events. The Old San Diego race- course was on the flat ground between the town and San Diego Bay, and in the fifties and sixties some famous races took place there.
In its first number, October 3, 1868, the Union says : "To- morrow at two o'clock a two-mile race will be run over the Mis- sion track. Alfredo Carrillo names b. h. Muggins, Jesus Mar- ron names b. h. Buek. We are not advised as to the amount of the stakes, but learn that besides a large amount of money already up, the winner takes the losing horse." In early times, when money was searce, the stakes were more often in eattle.
It is to be feared that bull-and-bear fights were not unknown here, although not so common as in other parts of the territory. The animals were placed in a strong enclosure and the whole population went to see the combat, seats being provided for women and children. A hind leg of the bear and a fore leg of the bull were strapped together, and the combat sometimes lasted for hours before one of the animals succumbed.
Far more pleasant to recall are the picnies, in which it was the custom to indulge with joyous abandon. The married ladies rode on their own saddles, while the young women were carried on horseback by the young men. This service was considered a post of honor, and discharged in the most polite and gallant manner possible. A bride was often carried to church in this manner. Sometimes the pienickers would ride in wagons drawn by oxen, and, if one of their number could play, there would be both instrumental and vocal musie, going and coming. At the pienie grounds, mats were spread and a feast held, after which games were played. In the evening, after the return. the day would be finished with the inevitable dancing.
The only thing resembling dramatic performances were the pastores, or sacred comedies, in which the inhabitants took a deep interest. On Christmas night, 1837, such a pastorela was performed, and Alfred Robinson has left an account of it. Among the performers were Guadalupe Estndillo. Felipe Mar- ron, Isadora Pico, and other girls. He thus describes the per- formance and the midnight mass which preceded it :
At an early hour illuminations commenced, fire-works were set off, and all was rejoicing. The church bells rang merrily, and long before the time of mass the pathways leading to the Presidio were enlivened by crowds hurrying to devotion. T
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A MEMORABLE CHRISTMAS
accompanied Don José Antonio [Estudillo], who procured for me a stand where I could see distinctly everything that took place. The mass commenced, Padre Vicente de Oliva offici- ated, and at the conclusion of the mysterious sacrificio he pro- duced a small image representing the infant Saviour, which he held in his hands for all who chose to approach and kiss. After this, the tinkling of the guitar was heard without, the body of the church was cleared, and immediately commenced the harmonious sounds of a choir of voices. The characters entered in procession, adorned with appropriate costumes, and bearing banners. There were six females representing shep- herdesses, three men and a boy. One of the men personated Lucifer, one a hermit, and the other Bartolo, a lazy vagabond, whilst the boy represented the arch-angel Gabriel. The story of their performance is partially drawn from the Bible, and commences with the angel's appearance to the shepherds, his account of the birth of our Saviour, and exhortation to them to proceed to the scene of the manger. Lucifer appears among them, and endeavors to prevent the prosecution of their jour- ney. His influences and temptations are about to succeed, when Gabriel again appears and frustrates their effect. A dia- logue is then carried on of considerable length relative to the attributes of the Deity, which ends in the submission of Satan. The whole is interspersed with songs and incidents that seem better adapted to the stage than the church. For several days this theatrical representation is exhibited at the principal houses, and the performers at the conclusion of the play are entertained with refreshments. The boys take an enthusiastic part in the performance, and follow about from house to house, perfectly enraptured with the comicalities of the hermit and Bartolo.
In later days there was an occasional circus, which must have been a godsend to the laughter-loving people. The late Mrs. E. W. Morse, who arrived here in July, 1865, says :
A Spanish circus visited San Diego soon after my arrival. It exhibited in the evening in a corral with high adobe walls, the company having no tents. The place was lighted by strips of cloth laid in cans of lard and then set on fire. The primitive lanterns were set on high posts and at best furnished a poor light. The spectators included nearly all of the population of the town who could pay the admittance fee of fifty cents. I think the Indians were admitted at half-price. The Americans and Spanish occupied one side of the corral, and the Indians squatted on the ground on the other. The performances on the trapeze and tight-rope looked especially weird and fantas- tic in the smoky light of those primitive lanterns.
The Californians were famous horsemen, as everyone knows. Indeed, the Californian who was not a good rider was looked upon with contempt. The greatest tribute which could be made to friendship, was a present of a good horse. The usual gait in riding was a hard gallop, which was not slackened even when lighting a cigar. The trappings were heavy and gorgeous and
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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO
covered the horse from neck to tail. Many of the ladies were skillful riders. Their saddles had no stirrup, but they rested their foot in the loop of a silken band, instead.
The only other means of locomotion was in the primitive ox- carts of the time, which were truly a survival of ante-diluvian days. They had either two or four wheels, which were made of the section of a tree about four feet in diameter, sawed off about a foot thick. The body of the vehicle was set upon the axle, with no springs. A light canopy was erected over this. They were all wood, no metal at all being used. The cart was drawn by oxen, the tongue being attached to their horns by ropes. The driver walked in front, to guide the team, and the women and children in the body of the cart prodded them with sticks. This primitive contrivance was the only means of con- veyance, besides horseback riding, for many years. All freight- ing was done in this manner and many long journeys performed, as well as nearby picnics. Considerable skill was required to guide these carts safely over the crude roads. It is said that the Californians were somewhat negligent about keeping the axles greased and did not mind the frightful shrieks which usually accompanied their progress. It is said, too, that it was not uncommon for the oxen to be trained to run races, and that this diversion was often indulged in on the way to and from church.
E. W. Morse related that one Pedro Gastelhum left his home in Ensenada, with his family, and traveled in such a conveyance to the homes of friends and relatives in Sonora, fully a thousand miles. "It may have taken them six months to reach their des- tination," says Mr. Morse, "but what of it? Unlike the Gringos, they saw no need of hurrying and worrying through this life. Their countrymen occupied ranches all along the route, to which they were heartily welcome, without money and without price. whether their stay was long or short. This family returned in the same manner, having been gone about two years, and, I doubt not, have always looked upon that trip as the most enjoy- able of their lives."
This was the only vehicle in the country until the fifties. In 1853, Abel Stearns imported a carriage from Boston, which was looked upon by the Californians as a deplorable and dan- gerous piece of vanity. At Santa Barbara, where there was more wealth, we have seen that Captain de la Guerra y Noriega owned a baronche several years earlier.
The Californians were not, as a rule, fond of hunting al- though they sometimes indulged in such branches of the sport as could be pursned on horseback. It was great fun to lasso a bear and lead him home, gagged and foaming, to be kept for a bull-and-bear fight on the next feast day. For game which
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WHEN GAME WAS PLENTIFUL
had to be stalked on foot, or in boats, however, they had small taste. There was nothing of the spirit of the pot-hunter about them. The testimony concerning the abundance and variety of game in the country is quite conclusive. Besides those which have been previously mentioned, antelope were very plentiful. In the early fifties, Captain Bogart sowed a field of barley on North Island, but reaped nothing, for the antelope came along the peninsula at night and ate it up. In 1853, a party of four San Diegans, who had been camping on the hills for ten days, brought into town forty deer and "a cord" of smaller game, and this was only one instance out of many. As late as 1868 deer and antelope were plentiful at the Encinitos. In March, 1869, a son of Captain English, assisted by a Californian, cap-
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WRIGHTINGTON HOUSE, SHOWING THE COURT
tured a large wildeat on the mesa between old and new San Diego, and in December, 1871, the San Diego markets were well supplied with venison.
Dana tells how, while left in charge of a hide house in San Diego for some weeks, a part of his duties was to gather wood for use in cooking. This fuel consisted of serub oak trees, which they brought in on a hand-eart, from the hills back of La Playa. While so engaged, they had considerable sport with various kinds of game. Coyotes (which Dana ealls coatis) were so plentiful that the pack of dogs kept at the hide houses fre- quently caught and killed them. They also shot hares and
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