USA > California > Santa Clara County > History of Santa Clara County, California : including its geography, geology, topography, climatography and description > Part 2
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The tertiary is more extensively developed on the western than on the eastern side of the Mount Diablo range toward the north. The hills bor- dering the San Jose valley on the east belong to this period, and are from one thousand to twelve hundred feet in elevation. The rocks are highly altered in places. A tertiary ridge extends to the north-west, separating San José and Calaveras valleys.
The geology of the belt of elevated land between the San José valley, the Bay of San Francisco and the ocean, is rendered somewhat complicated by the intrusion of granitie rocks among the unaltered eretaceous and tertiary strata of which these hills are chiefly formed. Besides this geological form- ation, rocks similar in lithological character to those of the Mount Diablo range are found. Fossils sparingly occur. A metamorphic belt extends from Redwood City, San Mateo county, to the south-east a distance of about forty miles, forming the eastern edge of the range and the summit of Mount Bache, three thousand seven hundred and eighty feet in height, and of other high points. Limestone in detached masses, occurs at several places through- out this belt ; evidences of what was once, in all probability, a complete lime- stone belt, are found at various places, from the summit of Black mountain, back of Mountain View, to as far south as the New Almaden Mines, which lie in a ridge north-west of that formed by the metamorphic mass of Mounts Bache, Chaoual, and others. It is to be seen on Los Gatos creek, dipping to the north-east, and is less altered there than at other places where it is hard and compact, though not crystalline.
By far the most interesting and important feature of the range under consideration, is the occurrence of the extensive deposits of cinnabar in the metamorphie cretaceous rocks at the New Almaden Mines, a few miles
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HISTORY OF SANTA CLARA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
south-west of San Jose, and lying in a ridge east of the main range, culmin- ating in Mount Bache, the highest points of which are about seventeen hundred feet above tide water. The three mines-the New Almaden, Enri- quita, and Guadalupe, are in line extending over a distance of about five miles; the former is by far the most productive. The cinnabar occurs in altered shales, inclosed by extensive masses of serpentine. The ore is very irregularly distributed, though the metal-bearing portions seem confined to limited areas dipping with the strata. This is but one of the numerous localities throughout the coast ranges where cinnabar is mined, but thus far is the only one that has been worked with very great and continued profit to its owners.
In addition to the important deposits of cinnabar in this county, it also contains several veins of copper ore, which have been worked to some ex- tent. Petroleum and Asphaltum are abundant in the range of mountains between Gilroy and Watsonville, particularly on Sargent's ranch, and in Moody's gulch, near Lexington, at a point one thousand one hundred feet above the sea.
TOPOGRAPHY .- In considering the topography of this county let us pre- mise by saying that the great Santa Clara valley is but a portion of that vast plain which stretches from the Golden Gate in the north to San Juan South, a distance of ninety miles. When first peopled the whole was known as San Bernardino. It is oval in form and attains its greatest width near Mount Bache, where it is about fifteen miles. About four miles from San José, and apparently forming a barrier across the valley, are a chain of low hills, called the Hills of Tears, (so named, the legend relates, because in early times when some of the first settlers were coming up from the State of Sonora, they stopped there, and their provisions giving out caused the chil- dren to ery,) but the obstruction, however, is only apparent. About eight miles from this point the valley contracts to a width of but three miles, and so continues for some six miles, when it again expands to a breadth of nearly six miles, and thus sweeps out beyond our limits.
A chain of mountains hems in the valley on either side running north-west and south-east. From the time of its entry into the county, the eastern range rapidly rises, becomes broader and very rough, having many elevated points along it, until it culminates on the summit of Mount Hamilton, nearly east of San Jose, four thousand four hundred and forty-three feet above the level of the sea. The range then decreases in height to Pacheco's Pass, the loftiest point of which is fourteen hundred and seventy feet. The western range near the famous Almaden Mines is crowned by two grand- looking peaks that stand like stalwart sentinels guarding the precious treas- ures which lie concealed in the yet unexplored store-houses of their lesser
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brethren around. To one the Indians gave the name of Chaoual, to the other Oumouhum. The first of these has an altitude of three thousand five hundred and thirty feet ; the second, which has been modernized into Mount Bache, is three thousand seven hundred and eighty feet above the sea level.
In the cañons and on the slopes of the western chain are to be found growing in full vigor the useful redwood (Sequoia Sempervirens) as well as many oaks and madrona. Of course the march of civilization has considera- bly thinned the primeval forests, but further back, beyond the county line, there yet remains enough timber to supply many generations. On the east- ern range, comparatively few trees are found, but its swelling undulations, picturesque ravines, and wealth of natural beauty, pleases the eye, making a grand contrast with its opposite neighbor on the western side of the valley.
At a distance of twenty-five miles from San José, in the depth of these eastern gorges, the Coyote stream has its birth, and after springing into vigor, leaves its cradle, joyously leaping and splashing among the roots of trees and playing around the smooth worn sides of boulders, until it rushes into the pastoral valley, where it assumes a more staid demeanor, and lan- guidly flows in many a tortuous curve, at last finding its doom in the great Bay of San Francisco. But what a change comes over its spirit during the rainy seasons! It then becomes a swirling, treacherous torrent, sweeping here and tearing thither, carrying all before it, until lost in the mighty ocean; yet how different is its normal condition. The Summer's sun has deprived it of much of its life, but none of its beauty ; its clear stream trickles through the canons, kissing the laughing flowers, and giving life to the parched ferns and grasses in its course, while "its whimpling waters make their way" into the salt water basin. So much like human life is a stream !
The next most important creek in Santa Clara county is the Guadalupe so named after the patron saint of Mexico. It rises in the Sousal, about. three miles south-west from San Jose, is fed by many tributaries and springs, and runs in a northerly direction until it comes near the city when it takes a north-westerly course and empties itself into San Francisco bay, near the debouchure of the Coyote.
There are numerous other streams in the county, many of them being of importance on account of the mills which stand on their banks, but unhap- pily our space will not admit of our describing each in their turn, suffice it to say that all have their advantages both manufacturing and pastoral.
There are several small valleys in the county, secluded among the hills, where many settlers have made comfortable and pleasant homes. Among these are the Cañon de los Osas (Bears canon,) six miles easterly from Gilroy. which, a few years ago was a favorite resort of the " grizzly." It is a wild but exquisitely beautiful gorge, through a range of high mountains, covered
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HISTORY OF SANTA CLARA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
with live-oak, sycamore, and a dense underbush, which is still full of small game; but "Bruin " has been exterminated. The red clover and bunch grass growing luxuriantly here, are the favorite food of many kinds of game. The creeks and pools are also full of fine trout.
The Calaveras (Skulls) valley is another gem, which at one time formed the bed of a mountain lake. It is about five hundred acres in extent and is now peopled with a thriving community of farmers.
Besides these there are the San Antonio and Blackbird valleys, in Mil- pitas township; Isabel, San Felipe, Horse, and Hall's valleys in San José township, with others of less note.
SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS .-- The following remarks have been culled from " The Natural Wealth of California " by Titus Fey Cronise :-
The peculiar geographical position of this county, in a broad valley nearly. surrounded by mountains, causes it to enjoy an equable climate; but it is from ten to fifteen degrees warmer than San Francisco, being comparatively free from the cold winds and fogs which prevail nearer the coast. The greater portion of the soil on the lower plains is a rich black, sandless loam, called adobe which yields from twenty-five to thirty bushels of wheat to the acre. Many fields have been planted with grain for ten successive years without manuring-the last crop being the heaviest. This is particularly the case on what is known as Stockton's ranch, a large tract of land on the east side of the valley, purchased by Commolcre Stockton in 1847. There are other sections where the land is thus continually " cropped " with wheat, on which the yield is much lighter than formerly. Some of the land when it is new yields as high as seventy-five bushels to the acre. The wheat raised in the eastern portion of the valley, where the soil is somewhat grav- elly, sells for the highest price in the San Francisco market, and makes the finest flour.
Along Los Gatos creek, about a mile from San Jose, there is a tract of rich bottom-land which, not very long since was covered with willows, but now contams a luxuriant crop of hops. About the town of Santa Clara- the highest land in the valley-the soil is lighter and more sandy; similar land extends beyond Gilroy, thirty miles south of San José. One reason why much of the hill and mountain land on the west side of Santa Clara valley, about Gilroy, and south of that place, is retained for grazing pur- poses, is, that being within the range of the fogs from the ocean, the grass is green, and affords good pasturage during the Summer. Every year, large numbers of stock are driven from some of the southern and interior counties to be fed on the fresh pasturage of these hills. So valuable are some of these lands for this purpose, that their owners hold them at higher prices than the grain lands of the valleys.
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GEOGRAPHY, NAME, POPULATION, TOPOGRAPHY, ETC.
The high lands bounding the valley on the east and west are admirably adapted for the cultivation of the grape, to which large tracts have been applied. The soil of these hills is a dark brown, sandy loam, quite unlike that of the valley. The common California grape, which does not ripen until September, in other localities, on the hills south-east of San José, ripens in July and August. The highest ridges of the mountains are in many places densely timbered, affording a supply of good lumber and fuel. The slopes around the edge of the valley are covered with wild oats and native grasses and afford excellent pasturage for large herds of cows. The butter and cheese made about Gilroy are famous for their richness. There are very few cattle raised in the county, it being so generally under cultivation with grain and fruit.
From San José to Gilroy, a distance of nearly thirty miles, the valley, in the Summer, forms an almost unbroken wheat field. In May, June, and July, when the grain is ripening, the view of this portion of the valley is a marvel of beauty. The farmers' houses, surrounded by gardens and orchards, appear like beautiful green islands in a golden sea. A month later the whole scene is changed: The waving grain has all been cut, and huge stacks of yellow straw and dingy grain bags are piled up in all directions, the latter waiting to be transported to market. In the Spring, it presents still another aspect, when the young grain is just peeping above the black soil, and the purple and white blossoms of the apricot and peach form a striking contrast in color with the hazy neutral tint of the distant mount- ains.
The great extent of level land in this valley admits of the use of all descriptions of agricultural machinery; the consequence is that nearly all the work on the large farms is performed with almost incredible rapidity. A thousand acres are sometimes plowed, seeded and cut in less time than is required on farms of one hundred acres in many parts of Europe. This advantage, together with the much larger yield per acre, compensates for the higher price of land, labor, and material. Large tracts of this valley produce volunteer crops, which are cut for hay, yielding generally about two tons per acre.
ARTESIAN WELLS .- Naturally, Santa Clara county is not well watered. It has but few streams of any importance-the Guadalupe and Coyote, and they, save in a season when their waters are of no avail, are at best but inconsiderable mountain torrents as they flow through the valley. Happily, it was discovered that far down in her subterranean depths there flowed an abundant supply of pure, sweet, wholesome water. Is it any wonder that the gravity of the usually composed author of "The History of San José" should have been disturbed, and that he should have waxed enthusiastic in
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HISTORY OF SANTA CLARA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
these words: "As this year (1854) came rolling in, the artesian water first came surging up from its hidden depths to play and sparkle in the living light of day. What a change! What a wealth for this beautiful valley Far beyond in value the discovery of a dozen gold mines; it appeared to be the work of enchantment. This was the only thing that seemed to be wanting. All had felt that water for irrigation, and good water for drink- ing were the great necessaries of this lovely valley. Here was a genial clime, a rich soil embosomed in the hills, like a jewel in a deep setting. It was brilliant in its vernal freshness; parched in the Summer's heat. Nature herself seemed dissatisfied with her work. To complete it, she diademed the jewel with the sparkling element, and caused the fame of this land to spread, like the light of the sun, all over the earth. And now, how lovely, how enchanting has this valley become, by the just combination of the ele- ments! Now we behold the artificial currents interlacing, like silver threads, the innumerable blooming gardens, and fruitful orchards, nourishing myriads of multiform roots dyeing the leaves with living green -- the flow- ers with varied colors of deepest hue; quenching the thirst of living man, and causing him to pause, as he beholds the face of nature, to reflect upon the goodness, the wisdom, the power, and wondrous works of the Creator of all things."
The credit of having bored the first artesian well in Santa Clara county, belongs to Merritt Brothers, who, in January, 1854, completed operations on Fifth street, near St. John's street, in the city of San Jose. In the same month and year, J. S. Shepherd bored a well about three miles east of San José. When at eighty feet, the water was forced into the pipe sixteen feet above the surface of the ground. T. Meyers bored the next well, in Febru- ary. The most remarkable of these wells in the valley, however, was that constructed by G. A. Dabney, in August, 1874, near San Fernando street, San José, when, in defiance of all efforts to control it, the water rushed out when a depth of sixty feet had been reached. We are told it flooded all the surrounding lands, and the Common Council of the city declared it a nui- sance, and ordered Dabney should pay a fine of fifty dollars for every day that he allowed the water to run; but this had no effect on the well, which for six weeks produced a stream four feet wide, and six inches deep. At the end of this time, the flow of water was reduced by the sinking of other wells in the neighborhood. The following are some of the deepest wells in the county: At the old hospital grounds, three hundred and fifty-five feet; Mrs. Hensley's, three hundred and two feet; Mountain View, four hundred and sixty feet; China Smith, three hundred and seven feet; James Murphy's four hundred and thirty-seven feet; St. James Square, three hundred and sixteen feet.
It has been said by some, writing as with authority, that the artesian water
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is confined to only the northern part of this valley. The error of this state- ment is too well known to require contradiction. As a fact, artesian wells can be bored, with success, in any part of the valley, the proof of this being the existence of upwards of a thousand of these in full operation in the county.
CLIMATOGRAPHY .- The climate of California varies with almost every local- ity, preserving but one feature that is in any sense uniform-wet Winters and dry summers. During the Winter snow falls to a great depth in the Sierra Nevada, and in small quantities upon the mountains of the Coast Range, but seldom any in the principal valleys. Along the sea-board, and wherever the country approaches the ocean level, the Winters are warm and pleasant, showers alternating with sunshine, in agreeable contrast. In the Summer, the cold, northern trade-winds set in about the first of May, and sweep the coast regularly. The Spanish galleons, bound from Manilla to Acapulco, three centuries ago, steered for Cape Mendocino, where they would encounter the north-west trade, and run before it, with swelling sails, to their beautiful harbor. Cool, cloudless nights, and delightful mornings, attend these winds, but in the remote valleys beyond their influence, the Summer heat is intense and the air dry. In the valleys that lie near to the coast, like that of Santa Clara, Napa, and the Great Russian River country, the intervening chains of mountains break the blast, and make the Summers pleasureable-neither too hot nor too cold.
In Santa Clara county the Winter, or rainy season, though ushered in by occasional showers usually commences in the month of December, when veg- etation starts. The Summer winds have died away, save those that blow from the south, and come laden with welcome rain. It must not be thought, however, that we wish to convey to the uninitiated the impression that this is a season of continuous rain. Such is not the case. It is a season of show- ers, sometimes of several days' duration, followed by weeks of fine, clear, balmy weather, during which the farmer tills his soil, and sows his seed. By the month of March, the heavy rains cease, and occasional showers infil- trate the earth until May, when the verdure attains its fullest perfection, and the country looks its best. Snow seldom falls in the valley, but it fre- quently is to be seen upon the summits of the distant hills, where, how- ever, it remains but a few days, and frosts occur severe enough to destroy the more tender plants, but not to interfere with the growth of grasses, and many kinds of vegetation.
We should here observe that the Winter of 1879-80 was an unusually cold one, both snow and frost being severely felt. On January 28, 1880, a heavy fall of snow was general throughout the State, and frosts were almost too frequent. Of the snow-storm, Julius Martin, of Gilroy, a pioneer of 1843,
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HISTORY OF SANTA CLARA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
states that the only other storm of like severity, that he remembers, occurred in the Winter of 1848-9. At that time the snow in the valley was at an average depth of three inches, and all the natives looked upon the sight with astonishment, while it remained on the ground two days, when it was fol- lowed by a heavy rain, which caused the streams to rise and overflow. In the following Winter, in November, 1849, rain fell in torrents, and con- tinued to pour almost incessantly, until April, 1850, when the Santa Clara valley was inundated for weeks. But these are only isolated instances, the like of which may not occur again in a lifetime.
But to return to our subject. Except alfalfa, the grasses are annuals. Alfalfa is a coarse variety of clover with deep roots, sometimes extending from ten to fifteen feet into the earth. It has a hard, woody fibre about an inch in diameter, retains its verdure from year's end to year's end, and affords excellent pasturage for cattle. Roses remain in foliage throughout the Win- ter, and blossom in sheltered places, while various species of evergreen shrubs and trees, unknown to the Eastern climate, at once lend a cheerful aspect to the landscape. The apple, pear, peach, plum, and other varieties, are denuded of their leaves, as at the East.
And now comes the season of harvesting, which the farmers perform at their leisure, leaving their stacks unprotected, and their grain in sacks piled in the open fields for months at a time. No rain ever disturbs their labors. It is the finest harvest weather imaginable. The days are uniformly cool, with rare exceptions, enabling man and horse to accomplish the largest amount of work with the least fatigue. During the forenoon, a good breeze springs up from the north, blowing steadily till night; but unlike the cold winds of the sea-board, it is tempered to a genial mildness by the fervid rays of the sun. From May until October, the sky is usually cloudless, save with an occasional fog-bank hovering over the valley, in the early morning, which is soon dispelled by the sun. There is but very little dew; vegetation dries up; the fields become sere and brown; the roads exceedingly dusty; and a universal drought prevails. Yet, though dry, the grasses retain their nourishment, and the stock thrive thereon, until the Winter's rain again descends, and a new growth commences.
These lengthy, dry Summers are truly the perfection of this climate, the desiccated, cool atmosphere being a sure protection against malaria, hence fevers are almost unknown. The nights are positively sublime. Invariably cool enough to require thick covering, sleep becomes a luxury rarely enjoyed in other lands. It is this peculiarity of climate that gives such per- fection to the cereals, such luster and lusciousness to the Summer fruits pro- duced in the Santa Clara valley.
Next come the hazy Autumn days. The trade-winds have ceased; the atmosphere grows thick with gathering moisture; the changing currents
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whirl the dust and leaves into weird columns; the south wind settles down to its work; and the drama of the seasons is repeated.
The Thermal Belt .- In a pamphlet from the pen of J. J. Owen, editor of the Mercury, entitled the "Resources of Santa Clara Valley," published under the auspices of the San Jose Board of Trade in the year 1875, we find the following remarks in regard to what is usually know as "The Warm Belt : "-
" A few years ago, the writer, while visiting the mountains in the vicinity of Lexington, late in the Fall of the year, observed a vineyard on the mount- ain side, in the lower portion of which the leaves were sered and blighted with the frosts, while the vines further up the hill were still fresh and green. Upon inquiring into the matter he found that such was a common occur- rence-that the frosts seldom affected the upper portion of the vineyard. Other portions of the mountains were examined, on both sides of the valley, and from comparing notes with the settlers in those localities, it was ascer- tained that there was a belt of country lying upon the mountain sides that was almost entirely exempt from frost. This belt commences at an altitude of about four hundred feet above the level of the valley, and extends to an altitude of about twelve hundred feet -- including a belt of country upon the mountain sides of from one to three iniles in width, and stretching along the whole length of the valley. It is so distinctly defined that residents of the mountains in riding up from the valley, in the night time, when the air is still, can tell within a few rods where they will enter the warmer cur- rents.
" The section is known to all old residents as the Warm Belt. The explanation of this singular feature is supposed to consist in this : The warm air of the valley rising at night along the mountain sides, meets the currents flowing in over the mountains, and is formed into an eddy which hugs the land and wards off the colder temperature. In this region frost is rarely known to occur. We have seen potatoes harvested in March, in this belt, that grew and ripened in the open air during the preceding months. Oranges, too, as fine as any of the best tropical production, are grown in the. same belt- as yet upon a small scale, but indicative of what can be accom- plished.
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