History of Santa Clara County, California, with biographical sketches of the leading men and women of the county who have been identified with its growth and development from the early days to the present, Part 37

Author: Sawyer, Eugene Taylor, 1846-
Publication date: 1922
Publisher: Los Angeles : Historic Record Co.
Number of Pages: 1928

USA > California > Santa Clara County > History of Santa Clara County, California, with biographical sketches of the leading men and women of the county who have been identified with its growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 37

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The scientific staff has averaged : at Mount Hamilton, five astronomers, one assistant as- tronomer and two assistants; and in Chile, on the D. O. Mills foundation, one astron- omer and two assistants.

The Regents maintain three salaried Uni- versity fellowships in the Lick Observatory, which are open to well-prepared graduate students who have decided to make astron- omy or some of the closely related sciences the basis of professional careers.

The Martin Kellogg Fellowship in the Lick Observatory, endowed by Mrs. Louise W. B. Kellogg, widow of President Martin Kellogg. provides opportunity to one holder each year for advanced study and research under liberal conditions.

The efficiency of the Lick Observatory has been greatly increased by generous gifts of funds for special purposes from Regent Phoebe A. Hearst, Regent Charles F. Crocker, Regent William H. Crocker, D. O. Mills, Ogden Mills, and others; and by grants of funds from the Carnegie Institution of Washington, the Na- tional Academy of Sciences, and the American Academy of Arts and Sciences.

The investigational work of the Observa- tory has been exceedingly fruitful. The great telescope has surpassed the expectations of those who planned it; and its energetic use throughout the whole of every good night in the quarter century of its existence has en- riched astronomical science in unexpected ways.

The leading discoveries that have been made embrace the following : Four satellites of Jupi- ter ; twenty-nine comets; about 4400 double star systems; 250 spectroscopic binary stars;

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a companion sun to the first magnitude star, Procyon; spectrographic observations showing that the sun with its system of planets is traveling through space, with reference to the general stellar system, at a speed of about twelve miles an hour ; that the velocity of the stars increase with their effective ages; that the planetary nebulae are traveling through space with average speeds even higher than the average speeds of the stars; the North Pole Star found to be a triple star in 1899; an extensive series of photographs of the minor planet, Eros, and surrounding stars, with the Crossley Reflector, led to a new and acct- rate determination of the distance from the earth to the sun.

The following total solar eclipses have been successfully observed by expeditions whose ex- penses were defrayed by the friends whose names are recorded : 1889, January, in north- ern California, by the University of Califor- nia. 1889, December, in French Guiana, by Regent Charles F. Crocker. 1893, in Chile, by Regent Phoebe A. Hearst. 1898, in India, by Regent Charles F. Crocker. 1900, in Georgia, by William H. Crocker. 1901, in Sumatra, by William H. Crocker. 1905, in Spain and Egypt, by William H. Crocker. 1908, in Flint Island, South Pacific Ocean, by Regent William H. Crocker.

In the early days of Santa Clara County Mt. Hamilton was called La Sierra de Santa Ysabel. The name Ysabel applies now to the creek that rises to the east of Mt. Hamil- ton and that passes along its northern and western base and then makes its way north- ward to the Bay of San Francisco. At the confluence with Smith Creek, Ysabel Creek changes its name to Arroyo Honda and still further north Arroyo Honda becomes Calaver- as Creek. The valley through which Ysabel Creek flows, lying east of Mt. Hamilton, is called Ysabel Valley. The mountain was known as Santa Ysabel down to 1861 or 1862 when Rev. Leander Hamilton, an able and elo- quent Presbyterian preacher, climbed the mountain as a member of a camping party. The striking beauty of the scenery inspired his ready pen and he wrote a number of articles describing the mountain and its surroundings which after publication were extensively quot- ed. The camping party, of which he had been a member, out of compliment to him renamed the mountain Mt. Hamilton and it soon be- came the popular name. Later, the United States Government surveyors put down the official name as Mt. Hamilton and at once the name Ysabel became but a memory.

CHAPTER XIX.

The Story of Alum Rock, San Jose's Beautiful Reservation of One Thousand Acres-Judge Richards' Description of Its Beauties and Attractions- The Claim of J. O. Stratton.

The following beautiful description of one of San Jose's greatest assets is from the pen of that artist in words, Judge John E. Rich- ards. It was written several years ago for the board of park commissioners, a civic body that went out of existence when the new charter of 1916 went into effect.

" The major portion of what is now Alum Rock Park was originally a part of the public lands to which San Jose became entitled by virtue of its pueblo origin under the old Spanish regime. By an ordinance of King Phil- ip Il of Spain, each pueblo, upon its estab- lishment, was entitled to four leagues of land. This law was in effect when the pueblo of San Jose de Guadalupe was founded in 1777. Its terms were not, however, taken advantage of until the pueblo had passed from the old dominion into American control. It then laid claim to its pueblo rights and these were ac-

corded to it under an Act of Congress pro- viding for the settlement of land claims in California, passed in 1851. The allotment and survey of these pueblo lands under the act extended the eastern line thereof to the sum- mit of the first range of mountains which form the eastern boundary of the Santa Clara Valley, and thus included the tract of land which now comprises Alum Rock Park.

"That the canyon which embraces the Park contained valuable mineral and medicinal .springs and that nature had there been lav- ish in her display of picturesque landscapes, in enchanting vistas of a mountain landscape and in the variety, beauty and luxuriance of tree and plant life, was early known to pio- neer settlers in the Santa Clara Valley. The desire and attempt of private persons to ac- quire this favored spot awakened a deter- mined effort in the direction of its appropria-

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tion for public uses, which led to its official survey in 1866, and to the definite reserva- tion of about 400 acres therein as a public park, by an Act of the California Legisla- ture passed in 1872. By another Legislative act of the same year a board of commis- sioners was created for the control of the park, and for the construction of a highway into it from the City of San Jose. The beau- tiful highway which now bears the name of Alum Rock Avenue was laid out and con- structed by this first board of park commis- sioners, which was composed of Gen. Henry MI. Naglee, Edward Mclaughlin and Dr. A. J. Spencer : and to these and other of our public-spirited citizens who thus early persist- ed in making the park available for the use and enjoyment of the people, a lasting debt of public gratitude is due.

"The original survey of the park gives its area as about 400 acres. To this was added in 1872 a donation of several acres, including 'Buena Vista,' a point of grand outlook, lying just south of the park proper, by Gen. Giles A. Smith. Cyrus Jones and Lewis A. Hicks, three liberal-minded citizens, who then owned a large tract of adjoining lands. About fifty- five acres more have been added by subse- quent purchases in order to control the streams and springs which constitute its water sup- ply. The present area of the park is about 460 acres and the distance from San Jose to its center is seven miles. Two excellent highways and also an electric railway, with cars leaving the park and San Jose every half hour, connect the city with the park. The rails are now on the ground for the construc- tion of a thoroughly up-to-date broad gauge, rapid service railroad into the park by way of Berryessa.

"Alum Rock Park derives its name from the striking monolith which stands about the cen- ter of the park at a point where Alum Rock Avenue reaches the creek in its descent into the canyon. Rugged and scarred by its vol- canic origin and chemical constituents, it rises a sheer 200 feet above the stream. Double sulphates of aluminum and sodium enter largely into its composition and furnish the residuum of alum dust found along its sides and in its crevices and from the presence of which it derives its name. Around the base and sides of the rock issue several mineral springs strongly impregnated with salt and other chemical properties. One of these pours its clear, cold waters into a stone basin just east of the rock. It is labeled 'Salt Condi- ment' and is said by physicians to possess excellent tonic and curative properties for those dyspeptically inclined. The original In- dian name of the creek and canon was 'Shes- tuc' Later the Spanish settlers named the

stream 'Aguaje,' which means a 'watering place for cattle.' A portion of the creek, out in the valley and between San Jose and Mil- pitas became known in Mission days as 'Pene- tencia Creek' from the fact that the pious pad- res of Santa Clara Mission and the Mission of San Jose were wont to make penitential pilgrimages at stated seasons, to a grove of oaks which bordered the stream at that point and the name 'Penetencia' came thus to be er- roneously applied by the early American oc- cupants to the entire stream. The lands oc- cupied by the park were also formerly known as 'The City Reservation,' but the appella- tion, 'Alum Rock,' has supplanted these early names and become the fixed and official desig- nation of the park, creek and canon.

"Nature has arranged the topography of the park in three divisions, each possessing its own scenic attractions and each adapted to a particular use. The first of these embraces that portion of its area lying below Alum Rock and extending to the mouth of thie can- yon. This, by virtue of its level spaces and the picturesque meandering of its rivulet forms the ample and natural camping grounds of the park. Here gather annually an increas- ing number of lovers of outdoor life to pitch their tents beneath the shady oaks and syca- mores along the winding stream ; to enjoy the perfect climate of the park and to drink and bathe in its healthful and refreshing waters. The three chief natural features of this por- tion of the park are Eagle Rock, the Meteor and Inspiration Point. Eagle Rock is that bold and lofty escarpment which rises abruptly many hundred feet above the level floor of the park and forms a portion of its northern boundary. For many years successive fami- lies of eagles made their home among its crags and could be seen daily sweeping their majestic circles above Eagle Rock. From this lofty outlook thirty cities, towns and villages encircling the Bay of San Francisco and dot- ting the Santa Clara Valley may, upon any clear day, be discerned. Another natural curiosity of this park is the meteor. This immense black boulder of manganese stands half buried in the hillside a short way above the entrance to the park. Tradition will have it that this is a real aerolite which fell to earth within remembered time, but science in- sists that tradition is wrong in this regard and the oldest inhabitant declares that the ineteor has been there from his earliest recol- lection. Which ever is right there can be no doubt that the meteor is a most interesting natural curiosity, which every visitor to the park should see.

"Overlooking this portion of the park also rises the wooded height which aptly bears the name of 'Inspiration Point.' From the

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kiosk upon its summit the whole central por- tion of the park is visible and the view of its varied beauty and of the bay and the val- ley beyond, is indeed grand and inspiring. A byway which winds in and out among the oaks of the southern hillside leads to this ele- vation and the lover of nature who follows it to the summit will be fully repaid.

"The next and most important section of the park is that lying above Alum Rock and up to and including the baths and de- veloped springs. The chief improvements of the park in the way of buildings, lawns, lake, driveways, deer paddocks, restaurant, gardens, bath houses and other facilities for the con- servation and use of the mineral waters, are within this area, the cultivated portion of which contains about twenty-five acres. Here are the aviaries, where all sorts of birds, from the stately peacock to.the pretty California canary, furnish endless enjoyment to children. Here . er. also are the deer paddocks, where several spe- cies of these shy and graceful creatures may be seen. Across the way a big, ample and comfortable den in the mountain side is the home of a great, good-natured brown bear, while from the nooks of an enclosed sycamore some large gray squirrels and a family of chip- munks peer and chatter at whoever will offer them nuts to crack or hide for their winter store. A vine-embowered restaurant, with its wide and shaded porches invites to refresh- ment ; and yonder the children's playground with all its accessories, and the dancing pa- vilion, resound through all the summer, with merry laughter and the rhythm of dancing feet. There are no 'keep off the grass' signs upon the lawns of Alum Rock Park and the one request which the commissioners make of the public is that they will pluck no flowers.

"The baths and offices are grouped near the mineral springs ; and while not yet as elab- orate in architectural or permanent in form as might be desired, the tub and plunge baths are capable of ministering to the comfort of a considerable number of visitors daily. The time will come, and that probably soon, when the people of San Jose will awaken to the real value of the park and especially of its mineral springs as features of public attrac- tion worthy of world-wide fame, and will ex- pend sufficient money in their improvement and development to put them on a par with other resorts of far less varied excellence to which many thousands of the world's seek- ers after health, rest and pleasure annually find their way.

"While the scenic attractions of Alum Rock Park are surpassing, its chief element of use and value consists in its mineral springs. No other place in California, or hardly elsewhere, .

possesses within a like area, such a variety of pleasing and healthful chemical waters. In the immediate vicinity of the park center and within a few hundred feet of the depot there are eighteen developed mineral springs be- sides a large number of other springs not yet developed and analyzed. An analysis of several springs, made some years ago by Wil- liam Ireland, state mineralogist, shows the pre- vailing presence of soda, white sulphur, black sulphur and iron in the composition of their waters. He says: 'Sulphates are practical- ly absent from these springs, which are high- ly charged with sulphuretted hydrogen. The absence of any notable quantities of carbonate of lime and comparative abundance of sul- phuretted hydrogen give more than ordinary value to these waters from a medical stand- point.' Both hot and cold springs are to be found issuing in close proximity to each oth- The soda springs are especially agree- able to the palate, while the sulphur springs are capable of furnishing an abundance of water for the tub and plunge baths. The park commission is proceeding as rapidly as possible with the development of these springs and their inclosure in artistic and substantial drink- ing founts composed of native sandstone, of which the park has an inexhaustible supply.

"Travelers from all parts of the world, who have visited the park, agree in the statement that the most famous and popular resorts of Europe have not the equal of these min- eral springs in number and in variety and pleasing and health-giving properties of their waters; all that is needed is their develop- ment to give them and the beautiful park. which contains them, world-wide fame and patronage.

"Just above the springs the visitor enters the picnickers' paradise. A Japanese tea gar- den stands invitingly at its entrance, and be- yond the canyon widens sufficiently to pro- vide a secluded little vale covered with spread- ing oaks, alders, maples and sycamores through which the creek makes its rippling way, and among which may be seen on every pleasant day, parties of pienickers enjoying their luncheon or reclining in shady nooks along the whispering stream. Beyond the pic- nie grounds a winding path follows the creek to its forks, about a quarter of a mile above the springs; and thence up either branch of the divided rivulet one may wander along shady and romantic trails to 'The Falls'.

"These beautiful cascades may be found a little way up either fork of the creek and will amply repay the effort to reach them. Tumb- ling down over moss-covered rocks into deep, fern-embowered pools, they present artistic visions of nature in her most entrancing

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moods. The park extends some distance be- yond The Falls, but only the persistent climb- er or the occasional disciple of Walton will venture to follow the stream beyond The Falls and up into the wilder fastnesses of the canyon to their source.

"Aside from the aviaries and animal enclos- ures and from the area of cultivated gardens and grounds, Alum Rock Park is the abiding place of a considerable variety of wild birds and animals and displays a great luxuriance of native trees, plants and flowers. The dainty California canary, the cheery linnet, the shy wood-thrush and the bustling little wren in- habit every bower, while the quail's piping note or rapid whirr, and the yellowhammer's loud, clear call, are frequently heard among the wooded hills. The loiterer along quiet by- paths often hears the scramble of a startled coon or sees the graceful form of a silver fox outlined against the green hillsides, or even catches a glimpse of a wild deer gliding through the undergrowth : while the camper or picnicker can strike up friendship any hour with whole families of brown squirrels with which the canyon abounds and which through long immunity have lost their fear of man and will come and frisk around the feet of children or even eat from out their hands.

"The flora of the park is also of great and. fact, of almost infinite variety. Practically all of the trees, shrubbery and flowers, which are distinctively Californian, flourish here. During spring and summer, the California pop- py, the golden rod, the yellow buttercup and the mariposa lily glorify its banks and brown uplands, while within the canyon's shaded dells bright Indian pinks, fragrant Solomon's seal, dainty bluebells, tall, wild tulips, lusty lupins, the blue and scarlet columbine, the delicate and aromatic shooting star and a hun- dred other varieties of wild flowers, abound. All winter the toyon bushes and the madrone trees fling the glory of their red clusters of berries along the hills and stream where the abundant brown bulbs of the buckeye tell of a springtime of fragrant blooming. Thus at every season of the year the park is beautiful. "The foregoing sketch gives but glimpses of the attractions of Alum Rock Park. It must be seen to be appreciated and those who once visit it for even a hasty hour, carry away im- pressions of its variety and beauty which re- main with them a pleasing memory forever.

" "The quaint madrone, the laurel trees And countless shrubs that cover The mountain sides; the soft, warm air The blue sky bending over ;

"'Make it a spot, when weary-worn, Yon seek with loved companion,

And find the gods of rest and peace Dwell in this matchless canyon.'"

Since the above sketch by Judge Richards was written the park has undergone many ar- tistic changes and improvements strictly up-to- date. More land was acquired until now the park comprises about 1000 acres. The broad gauge railroad over a newly constructed road now enters the canyon, while automobiles, provided with proper parking grounds, come by the thousands every week. Eleven years ago the park commission began to carry out a system of permanent improvements. The tea garden was removed and a first-class cafe has taken its place. Instead of two roads to the park in the old days there are now three, the third leaving the main road at the sum- mit and half-circling the park along a beau- tiful winding way high up in the hills to the heart of the park. A new bath house has been constructed at a cost of $78,000. The cafe cost $4500. The springs have been en- cased with cement walls and the creek has been walled up to protect the park from the occasional winter floods. More improvements are contemplated. Since the adoption of San Jose's new charter in 1916, the park has been under the control of the city engineer, C. B. Goodwin.

An interesting story concerning the park was furnished in the experiences of J. O. Strat- ton. For many years he was the proprietor and manager of a hotel in the park. This hotel had been built by Woolsey Shaw, who in the late fifties had acquired by preemption and purchase over 700 acres of what was then called the Alum Rock ranch. This tract ex- tended some distance beyond the tract after- wards claimed by the city of San Jose. While Shaw was in possession of large portions of the park (then called the City Reservation) suit against him was brought by the city under the claim that about 450 acres held by Shaw was part of the pueblo lands belonging to the city. Before the snit ended Stratton had bought from Shaw that section of the Alum Rock ranch that took in the hotel, bath houses and several outbuildings. All three improvements had been made by Shaw short- ly after he had entered into possession of the land. The suit was decided in favor of the city and immediately thereafter Shaw and Stratton were dispossessed. This was in the '70s. While the suit was pending Stratton offered to give up the land he had bought from Shaw if the city would pay him $3000 for the improvements. The petition was re- ferred to the Alum Rock Commissioners, and

. .

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after the court decision they presented a re- port awarding Stratton $1000, the actual value of the lumber purchased for the erection of the buildings. Stratton accepted the award, bnt when he asked the council to confirm the commissioners' report, he met with a refusal. The council claimed that it had no jurisdic- tion. In other words it could not deal with matters of equity. Stratton admitted that he had no legal claim for reimbursement but thought it no more than just that the city

should pay him for his improvements, first because the city was then using them and secondly because he had bought from Shaw in good faith, believing that Shaw had law- ful title to the lands. Year after year Strat- ton presented his claim for reimbursement and year after year the council refused to grant it. At last Stratton gave up in despair. He died many years ago and his heirs have never made any attempt to have the decision of the council reversed.

CHAPTER XX.

The Attractions of the Big Basin, or California Redwood Park-How It Was Preserved by the Efforts of a San Josean-The Annual Forest Play in a Natural Setting.

San Jose points with pride to its great sub- sidiary attraction, the California Redwood Park, or Big Basin, as it is more popularly known. It consists of 14,000 acres of sequoia sempervirens trees and is the oldest living grove in the world. It is about twenty-five miles from San Jose in the heart of the Santa Cruz Mountains and is reached by fine high- ways from San Jose and Santa Cruz. The his- tory of its preservation is graphically told in the following article written by Wilson E. Albee and published in the San Jose Mercury of April 22, 1917 :

"Giant redwoods, mighty with the strength which had withstood the ravages of centuries, quavered at the menacing snarl of the saw mill: trembled with the throb of its engines ; moaned with the scream of the ripping, tearing steel teeth, cutting through the heart of the forest, nearer and ever nearer, and from their towering height beckoned across the moun- tains for rescue ; beckoned to those who were that those yet to come might feast on their grandeur. And there was one to answer.

"Across the range above Wright's station, a spark smouldered and burst into flame. Whipped into fury by the mountain breezes, it spread, eating its way swiftly and licking clean the forest behind it, sending up a pall of smoke seen 'round the world. From Eng- land came the call for the story and pictures, showing not only the fire, but the big trees which it menaced. Andrew P. Hill, with cam- era and plates, plied his art preservative for a day among the Santa Cruz Trees near Fel- ton, meeting, at the end of his expedition, with the unalterable opposition of Mr. Welch, pro- prietor of the hotel, who stated that the trees were a perquisite of his hostelry and that

he would do his own advertising of them. Words followed : blows might have, but what did happen was a firm determination on the part of Mr. Hill that those trees should be- long to the people.

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History of Santa Clara County, California, with biographical sketches of the leading men and women of the county who have been identified with its growth and development from the early days to the present, Part 37

Author: Sawyer, Eugene Taylor, 1846- Publication date: 1922 Publisher: Los Angeles : Historic Record Co. Number of Pages: 1928

Author: Sawyer, Eugene Taylor, 1846-
Publication date: 1922
Publisher: Los Angeles : Historic Record Co.
Number of Pages: 1928