History of Santa Clara County California with biographical sketches, Part 37

Author: Sawyer, Eugene T
Publication date: 1922
Publisher: Los Angeles : Historic Record Co.
Number of Pages: 1934

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"The baths and offices are grouped near the mineral springs ; and while not yet as elab- orate in architectural or permanent in form as might be desired, the tub and plunge baths are capable of ministering to the comfort of a considerable number of visitors daily. The time will come, and that probably soon, when the people of San Jose will awaken to the real value of the park and especially of its mineral springs as features of public attrac- tion worthy of world-wide fame, and will ex- pend sufficient money in their improvement and development to put them on a par with other resorts of far less varied excellence to which many thousands of the world's seek- ers after health, rest and pleasure annually find their way.

"While the scenic attractions of Alum Rock Park are surpassing, its chief element of use and value consists in its mineral springs. No other place in California, or hardly elsewhere,

possesses within a like area, such a variety of pleasing and healthful chemical waters. In the immediate vicinity of the park center and within a few hundred feet of the depot there are eighteen developed mineral springs be- sides a large number of other springs not yet developed and analyzed. An analysis of several springs, made some years ago by Wil- liam Ireland, state mineralogist, shows the pre- vailing presence of soda, white sulphur, black sulphur and iron in the composition of their waters. He says: 'Sulphates are practical- ly absent from these springs, which are high- ly charged with sulphuretted hydrogen. The absence of any notable quantities of carbonate of lime and comparative abundance of sul- phuretted hydrogen give more than ordinary value to these waters from a medical stand- point.' Both hot and cold springs are to be found issuing in close proximity to each oth- er. The soda springs are especially agree- able to the palate, while the sulphur springs are capable of furnishing an abundance of water for the tub and plunge baths. The park commission is proceeding as rapidly as possible with the development of these springs and their inclosure in artistic and substantial drink- ing founts composed of native sandstone, of which the park has an inexhaustible supply.

"Travelers from all parts of the world, who have visited the park, agree in the statement that the most famous and popular resorts of Europe have not the equal of these min- eral springs in number and in variety and pleasing and health-giving properties of their waters; all that is needed is their develop- ment to give them and the beautiful park. which contains them, world-wide fame and patronage.

"Just above the springs the visitor enters the picnickers' paradise. A Japanese tea gar- den stands invitingly at its entrance, and be- yond the canyon widens sufficiently to pro- vide a secluded little vale covered with spread- ing oaks, alders, maples and sycamores through which the creek makes its rippling way, and among which may be seen on every pleasant day, parties of picnickers enjoying their luncheon or reclining in shady nooks along the whispering stream. Beyond the pic- nie grounds a winding path follows the creek to its forks, about a quarter of a mile above the springs; and thence up either branch of the divided rivulet one may wander along shady and romantic trails to "The Falls'.

"These beautiful cascades may be found a little way up either fork of the creek and will amply repay the effort to reach them. Tumb- ling down over moss-covered rocks into deep, fern-embowered pools, they present artistic visions of nature in her most entrancing

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moods. The park extends some distance be- yond The Falls, but only the persistent climb- er or the occasional disciple of Walton will venture to follow the stream beyond The Falls and up into the wilder fastnesses of the canyon to their source.

"Aside from the aviaries and animal enclos- ures and from the area of cultivated gardens and grounds, Alum Rock Park is the abiding place of a considerable variety of wild birds and animals and displays a great luxuriance of native trees, plants and flowers. The dainty California canary, the cheery linnet, the shy wood-thrush and the bustling little wren in- habit every bower, while the quail's piping note or rapid whirr, and the yellowhammer's loud, clear call, are frequently heard among the wooded hills. The loiterer along quiet by- paths often hears the scramble of a startled coon or sees the graceful form of a silver fox outlined against the green hillsides, or even catches a glimpse of a wild deer gliding through the undergrowth; while the camper or picnicker can strike up friendship any hour with whole families of brown squirrels with which the canyon abounds and which through long immunity have lost their fear of man and will come and frisk around the feet of children or even eat from out their hands.

"The flora of the park is also of great and, fact, of almost infinite variety. Practically all of the trees, shrubbery and flowers, which are distinctively Californian, flourish here. During spring and summer, the California pop- py, the golden rod, the yellow buttercup and the mariposa lily glorify its banks and brown uplands, while within the canyon's shaded dells bright Indian pinks, fragrant Solomon's seal, dainty bluebells, tall, wild tulips, lusty lupins, the blue and scarlet columbine, the delicate and aromatic shooting star and a hun- dred other varieties of wild flowers, abound. All winter the toyon bushes and the madrone trees fling the glory of their red clusters of berries along the hills and stream where the abundant brown bulbs of the buckeye tell of a springtime of fragrant blooming. Thus at every season of the year the park is beautiful. "The foregoing sketch gives but glimpses of the attractions of Alum Rock Park. It must be seen to be appreciated and those who once visit it for even a hasty hour, carry away im- pressions of its variety and beauty which re- main with them a pleasing memory forever.

" 'The quaint madrone, the laurel trees And countless shrubs that cover

The mountain sides; the soft, warm air The blue sky bending over ;

"'Make it a spot, when weary-worn, You seek with loved companion,

And find the gods of rest and peace Dwell in this matchless canyon.'"

Since the above sketch by Judge Richards was written the park has undergone many ar- tistic changes and improvements strictly up-to- date. More land was acquired until now the park comprises about 1000 acres. The broad gauge railroad over a newly constructed road now enters the canyon, while automobiles, provided with proper parking grounds, come by the thousands every week. Eleven years ago the park commission began to carry out a system of permanent improvements. The tea garden was removed and a first-class cafe has taken its place. Instead of two roads to the park in the old days there are now three, the third leaving the main road at the sum- mit and half-circling the park along a beau- tiful winding way high up in the hills to the heart of the park. A new bath house has been constructed at a cost of $78,000. The cafe cost $4500. The springs have been en- cased with cement walls and the creek has been walled up to protect the park from the occasional winter floods. More improvements are contemplated. Since the adoption of San Jose's new charter in 1916, the park has been under the control of the city engineer, C. B. Goodwin.

An interesting story concerning the park was furnished in the experiences of J. O. Strat- ton. For many years he was the proprietor and manager of a hotel in the park. This hotel had been built by Woolsey Shaw, who in the late fifties had acquired by preemption and purchase over 700 acres of what was then called the Alum Rock ranch. This tract ex- tended some distance beyond the tract after- wards claimed by the city of San Jose. While Shaw was in possession of large portions of the park (then called the City Reservation) suit against him was brought by the city under the claim that about 450 acres held by Shaw was part of the pueblo lands belonging to the city. Before the suit ended Stratton had bought from Shaw that section of the Alum Rock ranch that took in the hotel, bath houses and several outbuildings. All three improvements had been made by Shaw short- ly after he had entered into possession of the land. The suit was decided in favor of the city and immediately thereafter Shaw and Stratton were dispossessed. This was in the '70s. While the suit was pending Stratton offered to give up the land he had bought from Shaw if the city would pay him $3000 for the improvements. The petition was re- ferred to the Alum Rock Commissioners, and

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after the court decision they presented a re- port awarding Stratton $1000. the actual value of the lumber purchased for the erection of the buildings. Stratton accepted the award. but when he asked the council to confirm the commissioners' report, he met with a refusal. The council claimed that it had no jurisdic- tion. In other words it could not deal with matters of equity. Stratton admitted that he had no legal claim for reimbursement but thought it no more than just that the city

should pay him for his improvements, first because the city was then using them and secondly because he had bought from Shaw in good faith, believing that Shaw had law- ful title to the lands. Year after year Strat- ton presented his claim for reimbursement and year after year the council refused to grant it. At last Stratton gave up in despair. He died many years ago and his heirs have never made any attempt to have the decision of the council reversed.

CHAPTER XX.

The Attractions of the Big Basin, or California Redwood Park-How It Was Preserved by the Efforts of a San Josean-The Annual Forest Play in a Natural Setting.

San Jose points with pride to its great sub- sidiary attraction, the California Redwood Park, or Big Basin, as it is more popularly known. It consists of 14,000 acres of sequoia sempervirens trees and is the oldest living grove in the world. It is about twenty-five iniles from San Jose in the heart of the Santa Cruz Mountains and is reached by fine high- ways from San Jose and Santa Cruz. The his- tory of its preservation is graphically told in the following article written by Wilson E. Albee and published in the San Jose Mercury of April 22, 1917:

"Giant redwoods, mighty with the strength which had withstood the ravages of centuries, quavered at the menacing snarl of the saw mill: trembled with the throb of its engines : moaned with the scream of the ripping, tearing steel teeth, cutting through the heart of the forest, nearer and ever nearer, and from their towering height beckoned across the moun- tains for rescue: beckoned to those who were that those yet to come might feast on their grandeur. And there was one to answer.

"Across the range above Wright's station, a spark smouldered and burst into flame. Whipped into fury by the mountain breezes, it spread, eating its way swiftly and licking clean the forest behind it. sending up a pall of smoke seen 'round the world. From Eng- land came the call for the story and pictures, showing not only the fire, but the big trees which it menaced. Andrew P. Hill, with cam- era and plates, plied his art preservative for a day among the Santa Cruz Trees near Fel- ton, meeting, at the end of his expedition, with the unalterable opposition of Mr. Welch, pro- prietor of the hotel, who stated that the trees were a perquisite of his hostelry and that

he would do his own advertising of them. Words followed: blows might have, but what did happen was a firm determination on the part of Mr. Hill that those trees should be- long to the people.

"This was in March, 1900. Prior to that time Mr. Hill had taken numerous pictures of the trees, spending days among them alone with his thoughts and his camera. Perhaps it was this association with the big things of the forest which added depth and breath and height to the idea which first came to him during the argument with Mr. Welch. Per- haps some part of that great strength of the forest was imparted to him, adding its pow- er to his, that he might the better fight his battle of preservation, and perhaps it was from the vastness of the forest that he drew some of that determination which withstood hun- ger and privation while the fight was on, en- abled him to surmount obstacles, accomplish the impossible and carry the Redwood bill through. the state senate and assembly in spite of the determined opposition of the controll- ing element and the governor of the state.

"It was following his argument with Mr. Welch at the hotel near Felton that Mr. Hill met John E. Richards, then an attorney, now judge of the Appellate Court, on the train. Mr. Hill told of his determination to get the big trees for a public park. Mr. Richards was impressed. That night Mr. Hill wrote out his idea in a letter to Mrs. Josephine Clif- ford McCrackin, whose home had been burned along with twenty-three others in the recent forest fire. Mrs. McCrackin forwarded the let- ter with her approval to the Santa Cruz Sentinel and it appeared in that publication in the morning, the first article ever published

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advocating public ownership of the trees. On the evening of that same day there appeared an article by Mr. Richards upon the same sub- ject in the San Jose Herald.

"Mr. Hill, upon his return to San Jose, called upon Judge M. H. Hyland and Judge A. L. Rhodes. Both were taken with the idea and Judge Rhodes urged that Mr. Hill should make the preservation of the trees his life work. In reply to a letter sent the Santa Cruz Chamber of Commerce, a resolution fa- voring the project was passed and Mr. Hill was asked by J. F. Coppe, secretary of that body, to have a like resolution passed by the San Jose Chamber of Commerce. This was done, Mr. Hill appearing before that body and was appointed chairman of a committee to work for the preservation of the trees.

"After some communication with Mr. Coppe of Santa Cruz, it was decided to throw the project into line with the educational institu- tions of the state so as to keep it out of poli- tics as much as possible and the first meeting was called to be held at Stanford University in April, 1900. Arrangements were made with Dr. David Starr Jordan, then president of the university, who lent his hearty co-operation to the movement. At this meeting there were present delegations from the Academy of Sci- ence. the University of California, University of Stanford, Sierra Club, San Jose and Santa Cruz Chambers of Commerce, Santa Clara College, San Jose State Normal School, dele- gates from the University of the Pacific be- ing invited but unable to attend.

"Up to this time those interested in line with the first idea of Mr. Hill, had been think- ing only of the Santa Cruz grove. Just at this time Mr. Hill received a letter from Mr. Coppe stating that Dr. Anderson, of Santa Cruz, a prominent botanist, had asked that the attention of the committee be called to the Big Basin trees saying: 'As your enthusiasm is for these smaller trees, so will it grow in proportion to the size, the grandeur and the vastness of those in the Big Basin.'

"The proposal was taken up with Dr. Jor- dan and it was learned that Professor William R. Dudley, of the Stanford botanical depart- ment, and Charles B. Wing, a young teacher of the institution, had made a complete survey of the Big Basin and that for seven or eight months attempts had been made to purchase the land for the university. The land belonged to a number of lumbermen, however, and the figure for purchase was too high. Professor Dudley, when informed of the proposition of public ownership hailed it with joy and en- tered with great zeal and enthusiasm into the proposed work.

"In order to learn more of the Big Basin possibilities a committee was appointed by Mr. Hill composed of W. W. Richards, Carrie Stevens Walter, Rollie S. Kooser, Mrs. Steph- en A. Jones and Andrew P. Hill. This com- mittee was joined in Boulder Creek on May 15, 1900, by a delegation from the Santa Cruz Chamber of Commerce, among whom were J. F. Coppe, secretary ; J. Q. Packard of the smelter trust; H. L. Middleton, representing some of the lumber interests and Charles Wes- ley Reed, a member of the San Francisco board of supervisors. The next morning the party went to the tie camp where they were cutting trees from five to twelve feet in diam- eter. About 300 acres of the basin had been cut in the three previous years during which a mill had been operating. Passing the camp they proceeded to Slippery Rock where they made a permanent camp and it was on May 18, 1900, while the committee was seated about the campfire that Mr. Hill suggested the organization of a club, the object of which would be the preservation of the trees. The club, known as the Sempervirens, was organ- ized and Charles Wesley Reed elected its first president and Mrs. Carrie Stevens Walter. secretary. The camp where the organization was affected, was named for the club.

"The committee traversed the basin in all directions and took numerous photographs. It was while they were driving along the China Grade road beyond the property owned by Mr. Tray, that Mr. Hill noted the ridge be- tween the San Lorenzo and Boulder Creek on one side and the waters of the Pescadero on the other. Pointing to this, he stood up in the carry-all and said: "We will build a road over that ridge from the Santa Clara Coun- ty." Some objection was raised immediately by some of the Santa Cruz members, but soon they saw that the construction of such a road would be of value to them and they became supporters of the proposal.

"Several months previous to this time a committee had been appointed to get a price on the land. No action had been reported by them. A railroad had already surveyed a way into the basin and preparations were being made to cut the whole area of 15,000 acres. Action must be taken quickly if the trees were to be saved. In the face of some op- position Mr. Hill took the upper hand, met with Mr. Middleton, conferred with Dr. David Starr Jordan and Professor Dudley and the head of the Stanford law department and an option on the land was executed at Stanford.

"Up to this time everything had proceeded nicely. Steps were taken to have a bill in- troduced in congress for the purchase of the Big Basin, but, owing to the fact that there

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was another big tree bill before that body, the action was withdrawn. Mr. Reed was appointed at a meeting held in the Palace Hotel in San Francisco as a committee of one to draw up a bill to present to the State Legislature. It was presented by Assembly- man George H. Fisk of San Francisco, but be- fore long it was reported back by the as- sembly committee on ways and means with the recommendation that it 'do not pass.' The senate finance committee returned a like rec- ommendation and another meeting was called at the Palace Hotel where it was reported that the bill was 'dead.' Mr. Hill refused to understand what the word 'dead' in this in- stance meant. He insisted that the bill could be passed no matter how 'dead' it was, and because of his enthusiasm and determination he was unanimously elected to go to Sacra- mento and take charge of the bill.

"Hardly had Mr. Hill reached Sacramento when he found that it would be a stiff fight to get the bill appropriating the needed $250,- 000 passed. He went to Alden Anderson, for- merly of San Jose, then lieutenant governor. Mr. Anderson suggested that changes be made in the bill in order to get it through the com- mittee and that the support of Grover L. Johnson be obtained. Mr. Johnson became a friend of the measure immediately upon its presentation to him by Mr. Hill, and called the bill from the table onto the floor of the house and had it reported back to the com- mittee. Mr. Hill was given a hearing and the bill was re-written and returned with the recommendation that it 'do pass.'

"This was encouraging, but Mr. Hill soon discovered breakers ahead. He learned that a certain controlling 'push' would not let the bill pass and that it would cast him $5000 to get it through. He determined that there was but one way to swing this opposition in favor of the measure and immediately took train for Santa Clara. Here he called upon Fr. Robert E. Kenna, then president of Santa Clara College, and after outlining the situa- tion to him asked that the Catholic church be committed to the bill. Fr. Kenna made a trip to Sacramento with Mr. Hill to see for himself the actual conditions. Upon their return Mr. Hill spoke at a meeting of the Jesuits, gained their support and persuaded them to send a committee into the basin to examine the trees and report back whether or not they were worth saving. Upon the re- turn of the committee action was taken with- out delay and practically the whole power of the church was placed behind the measure for saving the trees. Mr. Hill returned to Sac- ramento with a new courage. Through a re- quest of Fr. Kenna, D. M. Delmas consented to

go before the legislature and speak for the bill. His address, made after a visit to the Big Basin, was one of the most powerful ever delivered upon a public project, and created a strong sentiment for the bill.

"Hope for the passage of the bill was strong at this time. Then came word that the gov- ernor was opposed to having the bill come up to him because of the size of the appro- propriation. New conditions were imposed which at first seemed impossible to meet. It was hoped that the conditions would prove an insurmountable obstacle to the advocates of the bill, but the opposition failed utterly in their estimation of Andrew P. Hill. They re- quired a new contract on the land. Although his funds furnished by the Sempervirens Club was growing low Mr. Hill left immediately for San Francisco. Opponents watched him go. They did not expect him to return.

"In San Francisco he met Mr. Middleton and asked for a new contract on the land. 'You cannot get it,' answered Mr. Middleton. 'It is not a question of whether or not I can get the contract,' replied Mr. Hill. 'The only thing is that I must have it. What are your conditions ?'

"The conditions named were that Mr. Hill secure a guarantor who would pay the sum of $50.000 in case the state should decide to purchase the property and not be in a posi- tion to make an immediate first payment. Mr. Hill hesitated but a moment. 'I will have that sum guaranteed to you before 12 o'clock to- night,' he said.

"At 8:30 o'clock that evening Mr. Hill called upon Dr. Jordan at Stanford. Dr. Jordan could not make the guarantee. Telephoning ahead that he was coming, Mr. Hill started for Santa Clara, where he outlined the situ- ation to Fr. Kenna and suggested that if he did not have the money it was certain that 'Jimmie' Phelan or his sister, Mrs. Sullivan, could furnish it. For some time Mr. Hill ar- gued and planned and finally, with a laugh, Fr. Kenna agreed. Immediately Mr. Middle- ton was communicated with.

"The cars had all stopped running and Mr. Hill walked to San Jose, reaching the office of the San Jose Mercury at one o'clock in the morning. Going to the office of Harry G. Wells, then editor, he said, 'Mr. Wells, I want you to write the greatest editorial you have ever written.' 'You are too late,' re- turned Mr. Wells, 'the paper is already on the press.' Mr. Hill persisted, outlining his plan for laying a copy of the Mercury with the editorial on the desk of every senator and as- semblyman that morning. The request was granted. Mr. Hill writing the editorial, and

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150 copies were run off, Mr. Hill taking them on the 4:30 o'clock morning train.

"The appearance of the editorials on every desk at 8 o'clock in the morning created a stir in the legislature, because they showed that the 'impossible' conditions imposed for the passage of the bill had been met in every detail. Nor was this all of the plan of campaign worked out by Mr. Hill. At HI o'clock that morning Fr. Kenna himself arrived in Sacra- mento. After visiting the church he went to the capitol building and was assigned a room in the Board of Education. For the greater part of the day Mr. Hill brought individual members of the senate and assembly to him for conference. A poll had been taken and it was found that there were only seven senators willing to vote for the bill.

"Just at adjournment time Senator Short- ridge, upon request of Mr. Hill, asked that the legislators remain to hear Fr. Kenna speak. They all remained and Fr. Kenna was ushered to the speaker's chair to address them. His plea for the bill was simple, beautifully worded, but determined. Out of the thirty- three senators there were eighteen Catholics. When the vote was taken on the bill, which had already passed the assembly, there were thirty-two favorable votes, the only one in op- position being that of the chairman of the fi- nance committee who stated that he hoped it would carry but that it would not be consist- ent for him to vote for it.

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History of Santa Clara County California with biographical sketches, Part 37

Author: Sawyer, Eugene T Publication date: 1922 Publisher: Los Angeles : Historic Record Co. Number of Pages: 1934

Author: Sawyer, Eugene T
Publication date: 1922
Publisher: Los Angeles : Historic Record Co.
Number of Pages: 1934