USA > California > Santa Cruz County > History of Santa Cruz County, California with Biographical Sketches > Part 5
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Concerning the literary folk of this county, we mention the following: One of the best known writers of short stories was Dr. James W. Gally; his writings best known to the public are, "Big Jack Small," "Sand," "Frozen Fruit" and "Quarz." He was also a frequent contributor to the Argo- naut, Sacramento Union, and other papers. He died in Wat- sonville in 1891.
Josephine C. McCracken, who wrote for Harper Brothers and for the Overland Monthly, is still living in Santa Cruz and is on the staff of the Sentinel. James M. McQuillam, one of the editors of the Pajaro Valley Times, was a graceful writer and very much of a poet. He used to print his poetic effusions in the Poets Corner of his newspaper occasionally. One of his poems, "Lost to Society-Lost," was a gem of the first water.
One of the distinguished writers for the Overland Monthly was Georgina Bruce Kirby, who came to California in 1850, was married to R. C. Kirby, a pioneer tanner of Santa Cruz, and lived here until her death. She published a very inter- esting book of her life before coming to California, describ- ing her home life in England, her voyage to and work in America and her life at the noted Brook Farm community. Her California experiences were in manuscript form at the
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time of the death, and have never been published. William F. White was quite literary. He was author of the book, "Pioneer Times in California," and he also wrote several sketches for the newspapers. His "Striker" letters are still remembered by the pioneers. He was the best raconteur of the early days I ever met, had an easy flow of language and was always entertaining.
Dr. C. Anderson of Santa Cruz, a regular practitioner for many years, is a noted geologist and conchologist. His scientific articles are well known and his work at the Chau- tauqua assemblies at Monterey was notable for depth of knowledge. He acquired a very fine collection of shells and sea life. His writings for "Harrison's History of Santa Cruz" are most interesting. He is in very feeble health, known to but few residents, but not forgotten by old friends.
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CHAPTER VI.
PAJARO VALLEY AND WATSONVILLE.
EVOLUTION OF EL PAJARO.
About the middle of November, in the year of our Lord 1851, three horsemen were wending their way from Santa Cruz to the Rio del Pajaro, stopping a short time at the village of Soquel to talk to a few of the inhabitants who were interested in knowing where this cavalcade was going and what the object was. On being informed that the destin- ation was Pajaro for the purpose of farming, sundry mis- givings were made as to the success of the undertaking. At that period the Pajaro was an unknown quantity and doubts were expressed as to the experiment of farming anywhere but in the vicinity of Santa Cruz. However, good luck and good wishes were freely expressed toward the advance guard, the pioneers of El Pajaro. The trio of horsemen parted company with Soquel and pursued their way. Occasionally they met a coyote which gazed indifferently at the intruders and appeared to be in no fear of being hurt; with these exceptions no other animals were in the road except a pack of yellow dogs from one of the ranch houses; they barked incessantly at the horses as much as to say, "what are you doing on this road." About dusk the trio arrived at the Pajaro river and camped on its bank under the cottonwood trees that lined the banks at that time. When camp was struck, a fire was built and the simple life commenced. There was not a farm house in sight nor any appearance of a habitation; the only houses at that time were the adobe buildings of the several ranch owners. The camp mentioned
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was on the Sal-si-puedes rancho, owned at that time by Don Manuel Jimeno, who was then one of the acting governors of California under Mexican rule and to whom a grant of the Sal-si-puedes rancho had been made. J. Bryant Hill, one of the trio mentioned, had leased from the Don, 1,000 acres which he proposed to farm under improved methods, feeling confident that if under the antiquated methods of the natives, and their primitive methods of farming crops could be raised, with the American process much could be accomplished. At this period, 1851, at all the ranchos were congregated thou- sands of wild Spanish cattle which seemed to own all the land in sight and were ready to contend with anyone that denied them the undisputed possession of the land; coyotes and wolves were numerous and seemed to have formed a combination against the offspring of these wild cattle. The wolves left after a few years, but the coyotes remained to follow the depredations and were generally successful. Wild geese were numerous and as they had never been fired upon were comparatively tame; while riding near them the flock would simply leave the road open, but showed no fear of be- ing disturbed. In due course of time farming implements were brought to the rancho and the first furrow was run about three-quarters of a mile long somewhere near the land now owned by the Sellman brothers. The writer has been credited with turning the first furrow on the Sal-si-puedes rancho, but I think this is a mistake. I assisted in plowing this portion of the land, but as to running the first furrow, if I did, it must have been crooked. However that may be, grain was planted, also potatoes and other crops, which real- ized good prices. Owing to the insufficiency of the fences the wild cattle broke in and devoured several sacks of potatoes. The Pajaro river took a rise and became rampant and carried
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off several more, and as potatoes were worth in San Francisco sixteen cents per pound, quite a heavy loss was sustained.
Toward the close of 1852 quite an immigration poured into the valley, composed mainly of miners who had been unsuccessful in their calling and concluded to try farming. Some of these people went to work for J. Bryant Hill, others dispersed over the valley, became squatters and farmed on their own account. The year 1853 was a disastrous one. Potatoes, which had been planted very largely on account of the prices obtained in 1852, failed to realize any money whatever. The crop was not a failure, but the price fell to nothing and the potatoes rotted in the ground.
Sal-si-puedes rancho, containing 31,000 acres of land, was owned by Don Manuel Jimeno. The United States issued a patent for this rancho to John P. Davison, Stephen W. Tibbets, Joseph B. Crockett, Edward D. Baker, (Col. Baker, who fell at Ball's Bluffs in the Civil war), Mary J. Blair, widow, and Violet Blair, Jessup Blair and Lucy Blair, chil- dren of James Blair, deceased. The above were grantees of Don Manuel Jimeno, who conveyed his interests in the ranch to the above parties, subject to the lease of J. Bryant Hill. The principal owners at one time were N. W. Chitten- den, F. D. Atherton, Eugene Casserly, Eugene Kelly, W. F. White, Charles de Roe and others. W. F. White was the only resident land owner on the Sal-si-puedes rancho. Mr. White owned quite a large tract of this ranch at one time, but was not successful in his farming operations.
It must be borne in mind that farmers in the '50s labored under many disadvantages. Interest was very high and shipping facilities were poor. The first crop raised by Hill had to be hauled to Aptos for shipment to San Francisco. Afterwards a shipping point was established at the Watson- ville landing, now known as Camp Goodall, where produce
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was loaded in boats, carried through the surf by Indians and from the boats transferred to schooners. Interest on money. borrowed was very high, hence the pioneer farmers of the valley did not reap any great income from their investments; as a matter of fact many went "broke" and their lands passed into other hands. The people of later years profited by the experience of their predecessors and have been more successful than those of the earlier days. J. B. Hill disposed of his interests in the Sal-si-puedes to Jesse D. Carr and pur- chased a tract of land on the Salinas. The dry season com- ing on, his investment was a failure. In 1851 Hill was run- ning a threshing machine in this county. Of late years he has been a stock broker in San Francisco and is, I believe, still living at a ripe old age.
Land in the Sal-si-puedes rancho in 1855 was sold for $30 an acre. Eugene Casserly, in the '70s, divided a portion of his land into fifty-acre tracts and sold the same at $80 per acre. At the present time this same property commands a much higher price. Nothing but the bare land was offered, no fruit trees of any kind were in sight, and the adaptation of the land for fruit of all kinds had not been considered. To gaze upon the well-cultivated orchards, well-tilled farms, vineyards and other evidences of industry, enterprise and thrift, makes it hard to realize that the Pajaro valley was for a number of years a vast pasture for wild cattle of the na- tive Californians. The people on the Sal-si-puedes rancho were principally employed by Hill and until the latter part of 1852 were a community living by themselves. The county paid but little attention to this quarter until the election of 1852, when a few candidates for office visited this section. In this year (1852) California had four electors who voted for Franklin Pierce : Santa Cruz county voted for Pierce 306; Winfield Scott 186; total vote 492.
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WATSONVILLE.
Situated in one of the richest agricultural valleys of the state, Watsonville was laid out by Judge H. Watson and D. S. Gregory and derives its name from the first-named. In the same year Llewellyn Thrift and wife and Charles Mc- Dermott (the latter being one of the three horsemen men- tioned at the commencement of the article on the Pajaro valley) started a tavern and general store on Main street about where the Hildreth block now stands, or a little below. Thrift remarked at the time "If there is ever any town it will be right thar." It started "thar," and is a good sized city today. A Mr. Phipps started a tavern about the same time on Main street, generally designated at that time as Pajaro street, near the site of the present Hoffman house. The architecture of that period was rather crude; the build- ings were mere temporary shanties but served the purposes of trade and traffic for several years.
The Rancho Bolsa del Pajaro, consisting of 5,496 acres, was granted to Sebastian Rodriguez by Governor Alvarado in 1837 on a patent from the United States issued to Sebastian Rodriguez January 4, 1860. The city of Watsonville com- prises a portion of this grant. Considerable litigation en- sued between the heirs of Sebastian Rodriguez and adverse claimants to lands of the Bolsa del Pajaro. It was finally set- tled by a decree of the circuit court in favor of Rodriguez under whom a majority had derived title, and there has been no further law suits affecting the title of Rodriguez.
Those who had squatters' titles only were compelled to purchase or vacate.
The titles to property being settled, improvements were made and new buildings were erected. Many years elapsed, however, before any decided progress was made. The vil-
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lage of Watsonville was incorporated by the legislature of 1867. The first trustees of the town were, B. A. Barney, president, H. Jackson, G. M. Bockius, James Waters, Joseph McCollom, Ira Mabbit, clerk; first meeting May 25, 1868.
The first years of the existence of the town were rather turbulent. There was a large number of what have been lately termed "undesirable citizens." So called vigilant as- sociations were very much in evidence. Mob law was too much in vogue. The vengeance of the mob was generally directed toward a class that the courts could deal with and grant no favors. It is not worth while to be particular in mentioning the crimes that were committed under the name of justice.
Horse stealing was considered the highest crime, while the crime of murder was treated very lightly. In all portions of the state a similar state of affairs existed. All new coun- tries appear to have had the same experience. There was a certain class of bullies who claimed to "run the town." They all died with their boots on. There was an impromptu duel by which the town was relieved of two characters who killed each other, both firing at the same time; there had been a fixed feud between the two for a long time, ending as above No unpleasant results followed this episode.
Watsonville, like other towns on this coast, had its ups and downs. Town property remained dormant for a number of years. At the present time city property is valued at a high figure. The transposition of Watsonville from a shanty town to that of better and modern buildings has been slow but sure. The public school buildings will compare favorably with any city of the same size.
The Bank of Watsonville, incorporated in 1874, has recent- ly erected a two-story modern building with all the latest improvements and conveniences. The Pajaro Valley Bank
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was organized in 1888 and now owns a fine block in the cen- ter of the Plaza on Main street. Both banks are prosperous and do a large and extensive business. H. S. Fletcher is now president of the Bank of Watsonville. Hon. W. R. Porter, ex-lieutenant governor, is president of the Pajaro Valley Bank.
The Carnegie Library was opened and dedicated in Octo- ber, 1905. The building was built through funds obtained from Andrew Carnegie, who makes it his business to donate funds for public libraries on proper application. Before this a library was maintained in a rented building. The nucleus of a library was started in 1864 by the late Judge A. W. Blair, under the name of the Watsonville Library and Liter- ary Association. Pajaro Lodge No. 90, I. O. O. F., also started a library and the books were subsequently turned over to the city library. This library is maintained by funds furnished by the city of Watsonville, raised by taxation; it has several thousand volumes, and the leading magazines and periodicals are also on file. Much interest is taken by the directors and the librarian, Miss Belle Jenkins. This library is situated on Union street, near the Plaza.
The Plaza, which for a number of years remained un- noticed and uncared for (being used at one time as a site for a traveling circus and as a place in which to keep stray dogs) is now one of the beautiful spots of the city, of which the citizens are justly proud. The work of beautifying the Plaza was inaugurated by the Native Daughters of the Golden West, El Pajaro Parlor, and now may be seen a handsome band stand and grounds beautifully ornamented with flowers and shrubbery.
It is hardly necessary to detail all the troubles incident to the early settlement of this portion of Santa Cruz county, on the numerous farms and outlying orchards the past has
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been forgotten. A good deal has been written concerning the so-called romantic side of California. There was not much romance in the early days of this portion of the state. The tales of Bret Harte are read with avidity and pleasure, but as a true portrayal of California life they are a failure. The best story of early days in the mines was written by Can- field, whose death occurred recently. For a plain and truth- ful narrative of California life in the days of old this volume deserves a place in every library in the state. "Truth is stranger than fiction," but the latter is more sought after.
There was a bright side in the life of the settler of the early days. There was more of a community of interest and a closer feeling among them than is to be found at the present time. In times of sickness, in the hour when death entered the house, friends were numerous in offering their services, there were "Mothers in Israel" who were always on hand in attending sorrow or sickness; their services were freely given without money or without price, and they did not expect to have their pictures in the paper or to be ex- tolled for doing a simple neighborly duty. "What is there in it" was never mentioned nor thought of.
Paul Lezere, a promoter, long since forgotten, at one time a resident of Paul's Island, in Monterey county, was the first to insist that a steamer would some day enter Elk Horn slough from the Bay of Monterey and carry freight and passengers. Paul used to visit Watsonville and advocate his scheme and endeavor to enlist supporters, but like other promoters he was ignored and laughed at. In 1860 sound- ings were made at the mouth of the slough and soon after- ward a steamer entered and made a landing at the head of the slough and a landing was established about four miles
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from Watsonville. This enterprise was started by Brannan & Co., who were the pioneers in this business. Goodall and Perkins succeeded to the business and ran a line of steam- ers for several years.
A railroad communication was established in 1871, the depot being at Pajaro, in Monterey county, about a mile and a half from Watsonville. Since that date the road has been extended to Monterey, Salinas and Los Angeles. A narrow- gauge railroad was opened for travel to Santa Cruz in 1876, and is now a broad-gauge road.
BEET SUGAR FACTORY.
Several years ago, some time in 1885 or '86, the late Claus Spreckels built a sugar factory in Watsonville to be used for the manufacture of sugar from sugar beets grown in the Pajaro valley. It ran successfully for several years, until it was abandoned and a new sugar factory established by Spreckels in Monterey county, which is running at the pres- ent time and is of greater capacity than the one formerly in use at Watsonville.
Beets are hauled from Watsonville and vicinity by the narrow-gauge railway to Spreckels. At the time of the building of the factory at Watsonville Spreckels received a subsidy from the people of this county for several thousand dollars, and recently a deed from the land on which the factory is situated conditioned that if the factory ceased to be used for the purpose intended the site should revert to the contributors. It has not reverted up to the present time.
The Young Men's Christian Association of Watsonville has recently erected a large building on the upper part of
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Main street at a cost of about $35,000, this amount having been raised throughout the valley by private subscriptions. The building is well equipped with the furniture necessary for a gymnasium, and other accessories. It is an institution that the donors take considerable interest in and they are very proud of this addition to the city.
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CHAPTER VII.
THE CITY OF SANTA CRUZ.
The city of Santa Cruz was granted a charter by the state legislature of 1866, amended in 1869 and '70, again in 1875 and '76. A Freeholders charter was established in February, 1907. The common council consists now of a mayor, seven councilmen, city clerk, city treasurer, police judge, city at- torney, superintendent of schools, board of education and other appointive officials. The present city officers are:
Mayor, T. W. Drullard; City Clerk, J. L. Wright; City Treasurer, F. W. Lucas; City Attorney, H. R. Osborn; Chief of Police, Hugh Dougherty.
Councilmen, Fred R. Hoew, J. A. Pilkington, W. S. Sprin- ger, Frank K. Roberts, Phillip Hynes, H. F. Anderson.
The Fourth ward was rendered vacant by the death of the incumbent, in November, 1909. No councilman had been ap- pointed to fill the vacancy up to January, 1910.
Very little progress was made in building up the city for many years after this incorporation, no perceptible improve- ments were manifest. In 1872 the late John Brayer, at that time postmaster, decided to move the office from its location at the head of Pacific avenue to the I. O. O. F. building then newly erected. It was considered at that time that the office was being moved out of the way of business, for at that period to be near the postoffice was considered quite an ad- vantage from a business standpoint. The I. O. O. F. build- ing is now in the center of the city. The postoffice is now located on Walnut avenue, off Pacific avenue. On Sunday morning November 14, 1909, the I. O. O. F. building suffered
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from a disastrous fire. The main lodge room was complete- ly destroyed, stores on the main floor suffered material dam- age to their several stocks, loss estimated at $50,000. May 7, 1899, Sunday, this building suffered from a fire very simi- lar to the last one. It was later re-built and the stores were soon rented.
In 1885 a new board of councilmen was elected, composed of younger men than had heretofore been chosen. Under the guidance of the new council a system of sewers was built; a municipal water system was acquired and several other improvements were made. Bonds were voted for and issued by the city to pay for the contemplated improve- ments. In 1887 a boom in real estate was started which did not last long and was a failure. Real estate was very much depressed for several years. For the last six years, however, there has been a steady improvement in land values and many new houses have been erected in different sections of the city, many residences of modern architecture have re- placed those of an earlier period. Sewers have been quite an important factor in selecting a building site. Of late years, "Is there a sewer" was invariably the question before any attempt was made to purchase a home. The main streets of the city have been placed in a better condition than ever before, and forty miles of concrete sidewalks have been laid. In East Santa Cruz, in the annexed district, about $50,000 has been expended by the people under the direction of the city government for sewers.
I had almost failed to note the Cliff Drive which follows the sea shore from the lighthouse up the coast, which for those fond of gazing upon the ocean is a trip long to be re- membered. The breakers dash against the rock-bound shore, especially during a storm, throwing the foam over the cliff,
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which is a magnificent sight and demonstrates the power of the waves when lashed into a fury by a southeast gale.
The San Lorenzo river that runs through the city on its way to the bay of Monterey, with its banks well lined with trees of various kinds, is a very fascinating stream. In the proper season salmon are caught in large quantities, as they enter the mouth of the river and start to run up stream. A visit to the railroad wharf will repay anyone interested in fishing. Here may be seen the fishermen mending their nets in the same manner as the men of Galilee mended theirs, and the boats (some of them sailboats and others gasoline launches), are being made ready for the next trip. The fish- ermen seem to be a very contented class of people; they do not let the questions of the issuance of bonds disturb their harmony, but work on from day to day totally indifferent to the various troubles of the times.
The sea gulls form an interesting picture; being quite tame, they dart from the wharf to the water to pounce upon the refuse thrown aside by the cleaners. Whales visit the bay during the season for the amusement of the visitors- Fred Swanton has them trained to appear at the proper time.
There are three bridges beside the railroad bridge near the mouth of the river, and another, a very handsome con- crete bridge, recently built by the Union Traction Company for its street railway, running towards La Veaga Heights. There is at this time a desire for more bridges across the San Lorenzo river to accommodate the increased travel. The main or covered bridge, as it is called, was built under a con- tract given to the Pacific Bridge Company in 1874 for $14,- 000. The sum of $15,000 was appropriated for this pur- pose; bonds were issued to pay for this bridge and also for one across the Pajaro river at Watsonville. The above bridges are built of redwood timber, though the demand at
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this time is for concrete structures as being more durable and artistic. As there appears to be conflicting ideas about the cost of the bridge built several years ago it may be as well at this time to state the cost and method of payment which is above noted.
La Veaga Park is a magnificent tract of land located about two miles from the city overlooking the bay. This was a gift from Señor de La Veaga to the city of Santa Cruz and comprises several acres. Besides the natural woods Señor La Veaga planted many eucalyptus and walnut trees and shrubbery of different kinds. Some day this gift will be ap- preciated more than at the present time.
At the present time, January, 1910, the city of Santa Cruz is wrestling with the question of calling an election for is- suing bonds for necessary improvements. The question of municipal ownership of public utilities is also agitating the cities of Santa Cruz and Watsonville. Several other cities in the state appear to have similar troubles.
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