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60
GROWTH OF THE CITY
city cars on Main and the adjacent streets. It is intended that the use of this structure will make it possible to des- patch cars from the station at the rate of one every minute.
T.
Mr. H. E. Huntington, the genius whose brains and money have conceived and built up the system of trolley roads which enables the resident and the visitor to most easily enjoy the natural beauties and advantages of the country surrounding our city, is one of the remarkable men of the age. Broad-minded and enterprising, he has not only made his own business a great success, but has contributed by his ability as much as anyone to the material progress of Los Angeles and its environs.
The Los Angeles Pacific is a purely suburban line, using its ten miles of track within the city limits only as a connecting link between the metrop- olis and the new towns which are springing up all the way to the sea- shore. It was a pioneer road in build- ing electric car lines to any of the Southern California beaches, its initial line being built in 1895 from Los An- geles to Santa Monica, a distance of eighteen miles. Since then it has attained a trackage of over 200 miles and it keeps at present 290 passenger cars in daily requisition. In
61
ANGEL'S FLIGHT
addition to its general service, it conducts the popular bal- loon route excursions which visit all the seaside resorts along its lines, showing the beauty of Pacific Coast towns. This road makes a special feature of its express and freight service and has arranged a system of thirteen trains, some with over ten cars 'each, which, in addition to the regu- lar mail cars, carry most of the express and freight which comes from the seacoast towns west of Los Angeles.
Besides having one of the best electric railway systems, urban and interurban, in the country, Los Angeles can boast of the most unique, interesting and pict- uresque inclined railroad in the world. Right in the heart of the city, ascending Third street from Hill, is a 304-foot incline on which are operated two quaint little cars. which carry passengers every minute of the day up Third street hill, 100 feet from the level of Hill street. At the top of Angel's Flight is a rest pavilion overlook- ing the city and above that 100 feet is a tower called "An- gel's View," from which can be obtained a sight of the city from the sea to the mountains. This little railroad is so well patronized that in its six years of existence the records show that it has carried more passengers per mile than any other railroad now in operation, and this abso- lutely without accident-a truly creditable history.
LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
Los Angeles is in many respects much like other cities of its size. It has its theaters, restaurants and amusement parks. There are a number of good stock companies, a high-class vaudeville theater, and traveling players from the East stop in town for a week's engage- ment.
Then there is the Chinese theater and the oriental joss houses. Situated near the Plaza and not far from old Soñora town, the Chinese quarter is in the heart of an interesting district. There we see the merchants with their fascinating wares, beautiful embroideries, gorgeous Satsuma, hideous images of the gods and the weird charm-like ornaments.
Facing the Plaza is the Church of Our Lady of the Angels, built in the days when Sonora town was the great pueblo of California. Here the old families came to worship and the padres said mass. The old church contains paintings by the mission Indi- ans of their idea of Via Crucis. Weird and grotesque as the pictures seem, they are, nevertheless, in- teresting and valuable.
On the outskirts of town is the Los An- geles Ostrich Farm and the Indian Crafts Exhibition. Alexander Pope once uttered a profound truth in saying that "the proper study of mankind is
63
INDIAN CRAFTS EXHIBITION
man," and nowhere can this be pursued with greater interest or more advantage than among the aboriginal in- habitants of the Western Hemi- sphere. A permanent exhibition of a most fascinating life that is fast being changed by the ever advancing world of progress has been installed in the Indian Crafts Exhibition, near Eastlake Park.
Realizing the great and growing interest which is felt in the Indian, there are gathered together here in Los Angeles representatives of prac- tically all the important tribes, espe- cially those noted for their handi- craft, and placed before the visitors to the Indian Crafts Exhibition what it would cost months of time and great expense for the enthusiast in Indian lore to see in any other way. There are gathered here typical groups of Indians from various tribes of both North and South America, who live in their primitive habitations, wear their native dress and work
at their aboriginal handicrafts.
The Indian Crafts Exhibition occupies fifteen acres of land on Mission Road, near Eastlake Park. and is readily acces- sible from Los An- geles and Pasadena. Taking advantage of the natural growth, there has been de- veloped a woodland
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LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
primeval in the heart of the Land of Poco Tiempo, where rocks are in the rough from the Great Creator's hand. and where the wondrous hues of creation are fresh and glowing today as they were when the morn- ing stars sang together for joy. Here one may see the Navajos, those rare blanket weavers and quaint silver work- ers; the potter too plies her craft and the bas- ket weaver is busy.
Chief Son - i - hat's House and Totem - Pole, by far the most historic in Alaska, were purchased and brought here at great expense and form part of the Exhibition. This Totem-Pole is the first and only one ever sold and taken from Alaska to stay.
The principal Exhibition Building is an exact repro- duction of one of the old Maya Palaces of Yucatan, and without doubt represents the highest type of architectural
65
THE PARKS
development of pre-Columbian man on this continent. It is divided into two large Exhibit Halls, one containing only goods of Indian manufacture and the other souvenirs. The Indian room contains a large and rare collection of aboriginal handicraft-Navajo blankets selected for their weave, coloring and dyes; pottery and basketry. In fact, the Indian room contains the best and most complete collections of genuine Indian curios in America.
PARKS
It is a sensible and beautiful custom of the Spanish people when establishing a new town or pueblo, that of devoting a larger or smaller square of land, usually in
the center of the settlement, to be used as a plaza or park. This was customarily planted with trees and flowering plants, furnished with stone or cement seats. where young and old gathered in the evening to listen to the music of some improvised orchestra and to discuss the gossip of the day. There is scarcely a town in all that part of the Americas settled originally by Spaniards without its plaza or park. And thus it is not strange that the original pueblo of Los Angeles was built around the Plaza which still retains its Spanish name.
About it in those early days were clustered the homes of the aristocrats, and within its small area the dons and
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LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
señoritas gathered of an evening to listen to the sweet strains of Spanish guitars and to discuss the small news of the day. This old Plaza is now but a small open
space in the midst of the Mexican and Chinese quarter.
The little lesson taught by the found- ers of the pueblo has not been lost upon the inhabitants of the great city, and Los Angeles has more area devoted to public parks and play grounds than any other city near its size on this continent. There are sixteen public parks, with a total
area of 3,750 acres. So much of this acreage was a part of the orig- inal pueblo grant or was purchased or do- nated in the early days that the total amount expended for purchase money by the city is only about $16,000 for property worth millions of dollars.
In 1887 the present Westlake Park was a desolate alkaline mud- hole. Today it is one of the beauty spots of the city, surrounded by beautiful homes, one of the most picturesque and note- worthy of which is The Bivouac, the residence of General Otis. The park contains thirty-five acres, of which the
67
ECHO PARK
lake covers ten acres. English white swans, storks, peli- cans and water fowl vie with sail and row boats in giving vivacity and life to its placid waters. A short trip on the Sev- enth street car line to this beauty spot is well worth while.
Eastlake Park on the old Mission road toward the eastern limits of the city contains fifty-six acres, eight of which are covered by the lake. Thousands of visitors assemble here on Sundays and holidays to hear the band concerts and to enjoy a row upon the lake or a rest beneath the trees, of which there are some three hun dred varieties. There is a large conservatory, two hundred varieties of cacti and a zoological garden containing speci- mens of most of the wild animals indigenous to the country.
Echo Park, distin- guished by the scheme of English landscape gardening developed through- out its thirty-three acres, is not as pop- ular as the two parks previously mentioned, but is a delightfully quiet and restful retreat, largely frequented by those who choose its pleasant paths for an opportunity to repeat to willing ears, the sweetest story ever told.
In the foothills to the northwest and furnishing a full
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LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
view of the city and surrounding country, is Elysian Park, containing five hundred acres of hills and valleys. woodland and garden. There is a propagating house for plants and trees for the other city parks. In the year 1887 alone, 37,000 trees were planted here. The whole place is a study in color and the perfume of its rose gardens may be encountered a mile away. The old don- key trail, Camino del Burro, is now a beautiful boulevard,
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from Fremont Gate past the magnificent collection of trees and the botanical gardens.
Out on Boyle Heights, commanding on clear days a sight of Pasadena, the Soldiers' Home, and in the dis- tance Santa Monica, San Pedro, Long Beach and the sea, is Hollenbeck Park, donated to the city by W. H. Workman, a noted pioneer citizen, and Mrs. Hollenbeck. for whom it was named. The aviaries here contain an interesting collection of strange and beautiful birds. There are concerts on Sundays, and a row on the long narrow lake is always enjoyable. This park is in the midst of a pleasant residence district.
The largest of the parks and one of the latest donations is named Griffith Park after the donor, Hon. Griffith J. Griffith, and contains 3,015 acres among the foothills.
69
CENTRAL PARK
When fully developed as a pleasure ground, it will be one of the most magnificent in the world.
Central Park, in the heart of the city, contains four and one-half acres of forest trees, shrubs and flowers. There is also a monument erected to the mem- ory of the 7th Cali- fornia Infantry U. S. V. and a handsome bronze cannon cap- tured at Santiago and presented to the city by General Shafter. Just across the street is the handsome home of the California Club and the Audi- torium, one of the finest amusement halls of the country.
Sunset Park of twelve acres is given up to oil wells and litigation. There are South Park, Terrace Park, Syca- more and Prospect, St. James and Chester Place, all filling their parts in the general scheme of pleasure grounds for the million people who, before many years, will rest and refresh their minds and bodies therein.
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LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
BEACHES
Los Angeles is a city of beaches, and their natural beauties combined with their accessibility make them the favorite resorts both in summer and winter. Most of the
beaches are towns in themselves-well- equipped with bank- ing houses and com- mercial institutions and school systems, which would be a credit to cities of more serious preten- sions. They are not merely pleasure re- sorts - they are towns of stability and resource con- taining pleasant houses and commodious hotels striving to delight the pleasure-loving tourist and to bring comfort and well-being to its citizens.
Santa Monica is the oldest of the beaches and is reached on the Los Angeles Pacific through a delightful country of fruits and flowers. Taking the trip by way of Holly- wood, the line passes through that beautiful city of attractive and magnificent homes, just eight miles from Los Angeles. In this val- ley of Hollywood,
71
HOLLYWOOD
pines and palms grow in equal profusion side by side with the fruits and flowers of the temperate and sub-tropic zones. It is known as a place where the largest number of plants from widely different climes thrive with as much or more vigor than in their natural countries. The meteorological records for over thirty years show that Hollywood enjoys the privilege of high rainfall and less variation between the different seasons of the year than any other locality in Southern California, and consequently the plants can obtain a continuous growth. One hundred and fifty dif-
ferent species of the palm, twice as many varieties of vines and climbers, bamboos, and thousands of varieties of trees and shrubs, indigenous to the hottest and coldest regions, combine to make a display of vegetation here that has no rival anywhere. Hollywood has many magnificent homes and here live many of the leading business men of Los Angeles.
Beyond this garden spot is the busy little railroad town of Sherman, embracing twelve acres, lying near the western extremity of the Cahuenga valley-only a few years ago a waving barley field. It was originally a por- tion of the Rancho la Brea, a thriving farming community, but was built up into its present state by the employes of the Los Angeles Pacific Railway Company. The carshops and the power-house were erected there in 1894. Few
72
LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
people realize that this attractive modern town was once the headquarters of the notorious bandit, Tiburco Vas- quez, who was twice in San Quentin for horse stealing. After perpetrating one of his many crimes, he hid in the mountains near Sherman, from where he committed many robberies and mur- ders around Los Angeles. He was finally trapped and hung in 1875.
Five years ago Sawtelle was another barley field. but now is a flourishing community with a resident population of about 1,500. Near it is the National Soldiers' Home, for which the Federal Government has provided 700 acres, which at present is in a high state of cultivation. Here 3,000 war-scarred veterans smoke their pipes in peace and dream over the battlefields of long ago.
From here the line goes directly into Santa Monica, six- teen miles from the city of Los Angeles. Located on the high bluff, one hundred feet above the sea level, this quaint and charming resort looks down into beautiful wooded canyons and over the placid sea. In the matter of climate, Santa Monica reaches as near perfection as can be desired. The records for many years past show that the summers are from twelve to eighteen degrees cooler than in the interior.
73
VENICE
and the winters are not less than ten degrees warmer. When the heavy snows crown the mountain peaks of the coast range, the foothills to the east and north of Santa Monica are carpeted in green and the visitors from colder climes are enjoying life out of doors under the vines and fig trees. As a town Santa Monica can point with pride to its school system, its churches, its public buildings, and its long driveways. It has a system of boulevards perfect for auto- mobiling, which communicates with the interesting points inland and with the beaches beyond. Travelers always de- light in the hedges of calla lilies and the acres of carna-
tions which bloom in all seasons. Its hotels are picturesque and comfortable, and though it is the oldest it is also one of the most modern of the seaside watering places.
Just beyond Santa Monica and once a part of it, but now an incorporated town, lies Ocean Park. It has proved one of the best home towns on the seacoast, be- cause it was found that houses could be built, streets and sidewalks graded and covered with cement on the sand, making desirable homes at moderate prices. It has re- cently erected a new bath house.
Just beyond this is the Venice of America-unique among cities. It was founded with the object of being an educational and amusement city, and has built its own breakwater, 90 feet at the base and 500 feet long, using 60,000 tons of rock. It really seems like a dream city, 5
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LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
where culture and beauty harmonize-where the gondolas in the canals remind one of the Doges of its ancient namesake. Along Windward Avenue are substantial build-
ings of brick, concrete and iron, and every ten feet there is a massive iron column, supporting the beautiful ar- cades, like the Rue de Rivoli, Paris. Its hotels are large and of fire-proof construction, and the Auditorium, which has the finest organ that money can buy, and the ship hotel, Cabrillo, are modern in the extreme. Venice is a city of contrasts, where ancient memories vie with modern improvement.
Traveling along the beach south from Venice, we come to Playa del Rey-Playground of the King-with its beautiful two - mile lagoon and the long- est single span con- crete bridge in the world. It has an aquatic amphithea- ter, capable of seat- ing 5,000 people, and an immense audi- torium of Japanese architecture facing the sea, whose double verandas look out upon turfed and landscaped grounds and on stretches of sandy beach. It is one of
75
REDONDO
the finest fishing resorts and on the lagoon are held boat races in which the crews of the navy often participate.
Following the ocean, the car line passes through many pretty beaches on the way to Redondo. Time was when this was a quiet, retired vil- lage; always beautiful and picturesque, it affords too many attractions for the sum- mer and winter visitor to be anything but the active city that it is. It seems to have been created especially for rest, recreation and enjoy- ment of life. For miles and miles there is a stretch of sandy beach, along which may be found countless numbers of beautiful seashells and the highly prized moonstones, which are found here in great- er profusion than at any other part of the coast. Nothing can surpass or equal the beauty of the violet beds and the carnation gardens which are found at this Beach of the Round Hills. The carnation grounds cover fourteen acres.
and from them nearly 10,000 carnations are shipped daily. At the time of President McKinley's visit to the Fiesta, 30,000 white carnations were supplied for the decorations of his carriage.
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LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
It is a pleasant ride south from Los Angeles on the Long Beach line. The car goes out past Ascot Park and the Seal Gardens, through the thriving town of Watts, on past the older town of Compton in the center of the
great dairy district. Not far from here and still on the line of the railroad is the Dominguez ranch, formerly a land grant from the King of Spain to Juan Jose Domin- quez. The rancho was originally the San Pedro, and contained 100,000 acres. Not far from the ranch- eria is the old battle- field where General Fremont fought his last battle. Just a few miles beyond is Willow Sta- tion, the junction point of the line.
Immediately south of this is Long Beach, the Atlantic City of the Pa- cific. From a dead vil- lage of five years ago, it has sprung into prom- inence as one of the new noted beach resorts of the California coast-a city of more than 20,000 people situated within easy reach of Los Ange- les, just twenty miles south. Its location is an ideal one for delightful homes, as a seaside resort and as a commercial
77
LONG BEACH
center. It is built on a plateau at an elevation commanding a wide outlook seaward to the ocean and Catalina Island. and landward over the fertile plains to the foothills of the Sierra Madres. At the base of the bluff, extending for ten miles from San Pedro on the west to Alamitos Bay on the east, lies a beach unequalled on the entire Pacific Coast, a sand boulevard, hard and smooth as a pavement, so broad that at low tide ten teams may be driven abreast upon it. From the bold promontory of Point Firmin east- ward, the coast line forms a crescent bay, which serves as
Avalon Bay, Catalina
the southern frontage to the town of Long Beach. This and the shelter from the prevailing winds given by the heights of Palos Verdes on the west, explain the salubrity of the climate which makes Long Beach popular, both as a summer and winter resort.
The awakening of commercial ambition has had a stimu- lating effect upon the growth of the city. The streets are broad and straight. The banks and business blocks are prosperous and modern and the hotels are noted through- out the west. The bath house, the second largest on the coast, is pleasing in appearance, ample in accommodations, and is the pride of the city and the joy of every visitor. The great pier, constructed at a cost of $100,000, is with-
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LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
out an equal on either coast in size or excellence of con- struction. There are two decks extending 1,800 feet over the ocean, the upper being exclusively a promenade, and the lower always used by automobiles and other vehicles. At the outer end vessels of the deepest draft can land. Connected with the pier by a broad promen- ade is a three- story auditori- um with a large assembly hall. capable of seat- ing 6,000 people. This is used as headquarters for the Chautauquans and the numerous con- ventions which assemble at Long Beach each year.
From Long Beach it is a pleasant ride to San Pedro, the southern port of entry. San Pedro has always been a shipping center since before the days when Dana's ship anchored there to take on hides. A port of wonderful
possibilities, within its harbor a score of vessels lie and its wharves receive the tonnage of fleets laden with lum- ber from the northern camps. It is the place where two
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SAN PEDRO
great railways traversing almost the entire continent from east to west and covering many square miles of territory, touch tide-water on the Pacific. The government has
spent six years and more than $3,000,000 on the stone breakwater, which is more than two miles in length and encloses a deep harbor where several navies might safely ride at anchor. A channel is being dredged into an inland tidal basin to form an inner harbor, which when completed will embrace an area of eleven miles, to be used for dock- age, and will make San Pedro the second harbor on the coast. Toward Point Firmin is Terminal Is - land, a narrow strip of land with the ocean on one side and the still waters of the bay on the other. On the beach can be found beautiful seashells and mosses, which, added to its protected situation and safe surf bathing, make this a restful and exclusive resort.
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LOS ANGELES-IN AND ABOUT
From San Pedro through the magnificent harbor formed by the immense breakwater built by the government at a cost of $3,000,000, across twenty-three miles of placid, blue Pacific, a comfortable steamer takes the delighted traveler to Santa Catalina, beautiful isle of the sea-designed by Nature as an ideal pleasure park. Here one may rest from all one's troubles, past and future: Avalon, the star above
Boat Landing at Avalon
the crescent bay, is languidly but charmingly inviting. The seals greet you clumsily but graciously, and the boat- men will transport you to fairy scenes hitherto undreamed. It is useless to attempt to describe the marine gardens which are seen through the glass bottoms of the row- boats and launches designed to furnish full views of these wonders of Nature's skill in decorations. There is no sight on land or sea more exquisitely beautiful. Fishes of all colors and hues are in full view swimming in the depths amidst a luxuriance of foliage outcoloring and outhueing themselves. Human fishes, the men-divers, may be seen picking coins from the sands of the ocean twenty to fifty feet below the surface. You may spend the day about this beautiful bay, and you will want to
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SANTA CATALINA
prolong your stay; but if you have only the one day, take the trip by coach road and trail to Little Harbor on the opposite side of the island. Santa Catalina Island is a
continent in miniature-a land of superlatives. It is the only place known where the game Tuna may be caught with rod and reel. In addition yellow tail and black sea bass help to furnish sport in this fishermen's paradise. The mountains furnish facilities for the hunter who may be ambitious to kill a mountain goat, and the valleys and canyons supply excitement in the form of doves and quails for the man with the shot- gun. The archæologist and the historian find material for surmise and study, and the romancer will surely ab- sorb inspiration upon the lofty peaks or along the rocky shores. The weary worker and tired traveler will find rest and refreshment in some spot of his own choosing in this fairy-land.
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