Men and memories of San Francisco in the "spring of '50", Part 12

Author: Barry, Theodore Augustus, 1825-1881; Patten, Benjamin Adam, 1825-1877
Publication date: 1873
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : A.L. Bancroft & Co.
Number of Pages: 312


USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > Men and memories of San Francisco in the "spring of '50" > Part 12


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Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14


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shade, the lifeless, hanging body, whose head and features, seen in "the phases of the moon," horribly grotesque, seemed nodding and grin- ning contemptuous defiance at his executioners.


Stuart, murderer as he was, had something almost redeeming, as he walked to death, look- ing, to the casual glance, no different from the other men, in whose ranks he walked erect and firm, with gleaming eye and unblanched face, dressed in a full suit of black, with every out- ward indication of a gentleman.


Watching the chances has been rewarded oftentimes by rich results in San Francisco. There are two rich men in this city, who accu- mulated the bulk of their wealth by watching for accidents in the business of other men; for omissions in legal documents; for little loop- holes, wherein to insert one finger, until a larger orifice might be worn, and a lodgment ob- tained, from which to worry off the just and rightful owners, by bluffing, annoying, harass- ing, or, that failing, to compromise, i. e., black- mail. When we say there are two, we must not be understood as saying there are only two, for doubtless there are scores of them; but this particular couple are, and have been for many years, under our especial observation, attracted


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first, many years ago, by a most cruel and treacherous act, which robbed a widow and sev- eral orphans, leaving them entirely destitute.


These men have emissaries constantly on the watch for any flaw in titles, any discrepancy in dates, any complication of circumstances, during which the crowding of claims, or pressure for payment, would ruin a man financially; which facts, brought to their knowledge, brings them down immediately on their prey. No home, no wife nor children, no domestic agony, are con- sidered for a moment, when these men are legally enforced; and if the wrongs, the op- pression, the ruined men and separated families, and all their wretchedness, through the rapacity of these two men, could be recorded, 'twould be a most damning record. They have never committed any act without the sanction of law. They are among our first citizens; they flaunt their wealth most arrogantly; but, as the old farmer said of one of his neighbors who was exceedingly blasphemous, boasting that his crop was in, all safely housed, without praying for the Divine aid he didn't want and didn't believe in, "Yes, yes, neighbor ; but God doesn't settle with everybody in October !" And our two highly respected citizens still flourish.


Smaller rogues sometimes watch the chances,


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with very profitable results-for the nonce; though no man or woman ever wronged another, without punishment equal to the offense, and without being conscious of it when the penalty came.


There was an English Jew in San Francisco in the early days, who was very plausible, cour- teous and respectable in appearance. What he did for a livelihood was not known or ques- tioned, perhaps, as no one confined himself to one particular vocation. The merchant or the mechanic might follow, ostensibly, but one oc- cupation, might be in his office or shop at just such stated hours as the merchant or mechanic of to-day; but he would be speculating in a dozen operations if they promised good profits, -and they mostly did then.


This Israelitish subject of H. B. M. formed the acquaintance of the Peralta family, and quite soon ingratiated himself in their favor. The native Californians were as unsuspecting as they were hospitable and honest, trusting im- plicitly their fellow-men. About that time, a sale of land on the Peralta tract brought in a large sum of money to its owner. The money · was paid in gold coin, upon the counter of Pal- mer, Cook & Co's Bank, in the presence of Col. Hayes, Major Caperton and Mr. Cook, of the


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firm. The obsequious and solicitous friend was there, attending to the interests of El Señor Peralta, and advised him not to leave so large an amount in one bank, for fear of acci- dents; but to distribute it in fifty thousand dollar deposits in the various banking houses, which sage counsel was followed. The old gen- tleman did not notice that the amount placed in Davidson's Bank was on a certificate in favor of his officious friend. He did notice, however, that his attentive and constant visitor was ab- sent after that day; and subsequently learned that he had drawn the deposit at Davidson's, and left on the first steamer for other climes.


The original owners of California lands were shamefully robbed, wronged and despoiled by squatters, and the thieving lawyers who set them to their work. The most infamous schemes were hatched by law firms in San Francisco, to rob the noblest, kindest men on the earth-the Rancheros of California. The recital of some facts would be of extreme interest to the pub- lic, and more exciting than pleasant to some of our first citizens.


Palmer, Cook & Co. were ever the friends of the old Spanish proprietors, aiding them with money and advice. Nearly all the great claims


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were settled through their house, unselfishly and honorably on their side, and in the best interests of their clients; and never, to our knowledge, was this banking firm anything else than an aid and help to all honest men seeking their cooperation.


Moses Ellis was of the firm of Ellis, Crosby & Co., on Sansome street, between Jackson and Pacific, in the spring of '50. Mr. Ellis was a very successful merchant, and left San Fran- cisco a few years since to reside in some village in Massachusetts. We believe the California fever attacks him periodically, and we consider it a mere question of time as to when he shall succumb. We think that George Sanderson, who had been in Stockton since '49, came to San Francisco, and took Mr. Ellis' business on Front street, when the latter gentleman retired.


A. J. Ellis, who was at work one day in '49. near Montgomery and Jackson streets, ran a splinter under his nail, and on the spur, or the splinter of the moment, with that choleric im- petuosity which is characteristic of him, threw his plane as far as he could into the open lot, now covered by the Metropolitan Theatre, vow- ing that he would never do another day's car- pentering. He never has, and survives remark- ably well.


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There was a Mr. William Sharron in San Fran- cisco in the spring of' 50, who was a broker and commission merchant. He lived on the corner of Union and Mason streets. We do not know whether it was the gentleman who figures so prominently in the financial affairs of San Fran- cisco to-day. We merely remember a gentle- man of that name, and that he lived in the above mentioned place. We know that he is a man who has very little to say; but that he is heard from to considerable purpose occasionally, which induces us to believe that the Mr. Shar- ron of '73 and the Mr. Sharron of the spring of '50 are identical.


R. N. Berry was the lively broker, operator and commission merchant of those days; and subsequently, as long as his health permitted the exercise of his remarkable energies and fer- tile brain. Business to him was a mere pas- time, like a recreation to ordinary men. Mr. Berry's management of business affairs was like the action of the painter, writer or advocate who has genius to aid his labors.


There were two brothers Sanchez, real estate brokers, on Clay street, above Montgomery, Bernardino and Santura. There was also a Joseph Sanchez, a broker, on Broadway, be-


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tween Stockton and Dupont, but we do not know that he was a brother of the Clay street firm.


Robert Turnbull was a broker on Washing- ton street; and J. Ambrose Hooper was in the same business on Jackson street. They were active, busy men.


James McIlwain was a wide-awake broker in those days, and is to-day; but he was a mere boy then, although he could sell merchandise with any of the men, and was a lively feature in the streets, rattling back and forth on his long-tailed, scampering pony. To-day, as in the spring of '50, his word is as good as his bond.


Asa and George Loring were manufacturing jewelers in San Francisco in '50. Whether they were of the firm of Loring & Hogg, in Ward's Court, or whether they were with Hayes & Lyndall, on Clay street, we are uncertain; but we do know that they were good craftsmen, and good citizens. Asa is long since dead. George worked in Grass Valley for many years since '51-'52, but is at present employed in the U. S. Mint at San Francisco.


Robert Shankland was of the firm of Shank- land & Gibson, auctioneers, on Kearny, between Washington and Jackson. Mr. Shankland now


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leads a bucolic life, in company with Mr. James L. Riddle, near Mountain View.


The Hon. Thos. H. Selby was of the firm of Selby & Post, metal dealers, on Sacramento street, between Kearny and Dupont, in the spring of '50-active, shrewd and enterprising then as now.


Isaiah C. Woods, who was the manager of Adams & Co's banking house in San Francisco, was never understood or appreciated by the general public. He is one of the ablest busi- ness men ever in San Francisco. Had he been allowed to settle the affairs of Adams & Co., it would have been far better for the creditors of that firm. Mr. Woods is a man who would, in any other city than San Francisco, have been considered a valuable acquisition to its business men-its men of brains-its great movers and workers-and not only permitted, but requested to remain where he was-would have been aided and cooperated with, in continuing the house of Adams & Co.


Mr. Woods can originate any enterprise, clearly and feasibly, which, if carried out in detail, un- der his direction, will eventuate prosperously for the public and the projectors of the scheme. There was too much misrepresentation, preju-


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dice and excitement at the time of the Adams & Co. failure; it was a very bad affair, but ought not to have been charged to I. C. Woods in all its disastrous mismanagement. Such men, with a fair chance, make business and prosperity for any city; and any such men's withdrawal, voluntary or compulsory, from business, is a public misfortune. We have always considered Mr. Woods as ranking in ability with I. Fried- lander, W. C. Ralston, Jabez Howes, J. Palmer, Charles Cook, Harry Meiggs, and the late Henry Haight-men of broad, comprehensive vision, never forgetting the grand perspective, far- reaching to the horizon, because of some puny obstacle held temporarily before their eyes.


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CHAPTER XXVI.


WHERE the Grand Hotel stands, on Market and Second streets, there was, in 1849, and up to 1853-4, a sand-hill, which was the subject of long and well-contested litigation, with strangely fluctuating fortune for the claimants on either side. It was taken to the Supreme Court and de- cided in favor of one party ; a rehearing granted, and, after another long struggle, decided in favor of the other party. Then the ulti- mately successful ones were forced to hold it by force of arms. We remember Selim and Fred. Woodworth and Stephen Teschemacher arm- ing and equipping themselves with shotguns, revolvers, sandwiches and stimulants, and en- camping on the ground to hold possession against squatters, as late as 1853. In 1857 it was leased to Mr. Pease, brother of E. T. Pease, who occupied it as a coal-yard, at a merely nominal price, to hold possession for its owners. Although Second street was well built up on both sides, from Market to Rincon Hill, Mar- ket street, west of Second, was little more than


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a sand-waste. Father Maginnis' Church and a few straggling buildings were the only objects to mark the street line; and for a long time after Kearny was navigable to Market and across into Third street, there was a high sand- bank across Market, so high that the person walking from Kearny into Third, could not see the "Devisadero" heights, beyond the Mission If we remember rightly, the obstruction re- mained there until excavated by the track- layers of the Market Street Railroad.


At the corner of O'Farrell and Dupont streets, in 1855-6, was a laundry; but the lat- ter street was a cul de sac, unless you scaled the almost perpendicular sand-bank directly across the street, at the end of the laundry building, which feat accomplished, you saw a quiet val- ley, with a little, shallow laguna, a few cottages, and a garden and hot-houses of considerable dimensions, where Monsieur Habert cultivated exotics. The diminished domains of that gar- den still remain on Eddy street, near Powell, and a signboard informs the public that M. Vivien is the successor of M. Habert. This region was called St. Ann's Valley then, and the way to the Mission was easy for horses or pedestrians across this valley, the ground being


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generally firmer than round about it. As you went on, you saw a little church-belfry above the sand-hills; the same building now standing on the corner of Geary and Mason, and used at present as a school-house. A big sand-hill stood where Starr King's Church, the City College, and the blocks of buildings on both sides of Stockton, between Geary and O' Farrell, now stand.


A large wooden house, the residence of Dr. Gates, stood on the hill at the south- west corner of Geary and Stockton; as high -the ground floors of it-as the roof of the College building on the opposite corner now is from the present street level. In '59 or '60 this building was lowered and placed on the Geary street line, where it now stands, occupied by Dr. Calvert, dentist. In '60 and '61 Mr. Ohm, the importer of watches for so many years in this city, came to live in the cottage adjoin- ing the building last mentioned, and soon after purchased the fifty-vara lot in the centre of the block, on the Geary street line, and erected the four commodious dwellings now thereon. Long after this time, the Union Plaza-ground was covered by a sand-hill, so high that the neighbors on the surrounding streets could see only the roofs of the houses opposite their own.


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Near the corner of Powell and Geary, on the latter street, was a three-story wooden build- ing, used as a laundry. The same building is now on Powell, just below Geary, on the east side of the street, and now answers for a double house. Where Dr. Hemphill's Church now stands, there was a single story cottage and stables, occupied by the owner of the property. A pretty little girl with flaxen curls used to live there; and often, when we passed that way, she put her tiny hands through the railing of the fence, for us to shake, and wish her "Good morning!"


Where the Scotch Presbyterian Church stands, on Mason street, near Eddy, there stood, until three or four years ago, the house of Henry Gerke, the great viniculturist.


Mr. Gerke built on this spot in 1847, more than a year before the discovery of gold in dig- ging the Sutter mill-race. The Gerke House was a capacious wooden building, two stories, with a high roof, and broad, sheltering veran- das on both stories-a comfortable, homelike dwelling. We used to look upon this house with peculiar feelings of regard and interest years ago, when passing it; standing solitary among the sand-hills, so remote from even the


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little city which was itself so far away from all the rest of busy human kind. It seemed so strange a place to build a home-away from all society, out of sight of every human habita- tion-so still by day and lonesome after night- fall, year after year-until gregarious man- kind approached, with steady creeping tide of population, until its flood surrounded them on every side, and Fate or Chance, as if resenting the long and silent isolation of that old home, built on the very spot a church, where hundreds now meet in congregation, and raise their voices in loud united praise and songs of thanksgiving.


The Waverly House was a large, four - story wooden building, on the north side of Pacific street, between Montgomery and Kearny. It was painted a dark brown, and the words "Wav- erly House" painted in huge white letters upon its front. It was very well conducted, and quite a comfortable place, at five dollars per diem, per capita. The house stood upon an un- even portion of the street, and the platform be- fore the entrance was, at its eastern end, raised but two or three steps above the ground, while, at the western extremity of the hotel front, it ended twelve feet above the ground, without rail or guard of any kind. We remember an


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invalid passenger (a Mr. Chapman) who arrived in June, '50, being sufficiently recovered to take a little evening exercise on the platform, walked back and forth a few times in the dark, and then, thinking to extend his promenade round the corner, walked off, severely injuring him- self, and prolonging his stay at the "Waverly." 4


The hill, up Clay street to the postoffice, on the corner of Pike and Clay, was very steep in the spring of '50. The Plaza was an open, un- interrupted space, from the buildings on Clay street to those on Washington street. . Steps were cut into the ground along where the side- walk now borders the Plaza, and in some places on the opposite side-quite an aid in climbing for letters at the postoffice. Colonel Geary opened the first postoffice on the corner of Washington and Montgomery; thence he re- moved to the corner of Washington and Stock- ton; thence to the corner of Pike and Clay. Here, long lines of patient men, six and twelve months from home, via Cape Horn, waited for letters. The looker-on could see happy faces and sad ones turning away from the windows, whence issued sealed missives more portentous than the contents of Pandora's box! The win- dow-clerks rarely, if ever, had change for a


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dollar, and the happy recipient of a letter cared nothing at such a moment for his change.


It was said that some fellows made quite a good salary by selling out, when near the window, to some new comer, with more money than patience. In 1851, the postoffice was removed to the zinc- covered building on the northeast corner of Dupont and Clay, the westhern half of which house was occupied at the same time by E. Wilson, as a restaurant. Mr. Wilson afterward opened Wilson's Exchange, now the American Exchange, on Sansome, near Sacramento street. We never pass these old postoffice neighbor- hoods, without imagining the air peopled with invisible beings, haunting the spot where they were born of joys and sorrows, engendered in the hearts of men, excessively emotional.


The first brick building on California street was erected for Fitzgerald, Bausch & Brewster, who were, prior to that time, on Sacramento street. This brick building stood where the California market now stands. Where Mr. Stevenson's large brick building now stands, on the southwest corner of California and Mont- gomery streets, Leidesdorff's cottage stood in 1849. It was a one-story building, with a pyra- midal kind of roof. The front of the house


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faced the east as nearly as any point, for it stood diagonally on the lot. There were two windows and a door in the front; the door was reached by a little flight of steps to a platform, with a railing. There was a railed enclosure, com- mencing at the Montgomery street south end of the house, and the west end on California street. There was a large wooden building on this corner in '50 or '51. Payne & Dewey had an auction and sales room in the lower story. John Middleton also had an auction room in the same place. Clayton once kept a restaurant, called the "Jackson House," in the same build- ing. Madame Martin, since of the Maison Doré, N. Y., used to keep lodging rooms in this house.


A sketch of Montgomery street, by Pender- gast, showing the front of this building, and Chinamen at work in the erection of Parrott's stone building, now occupied by Wells, Fargo & Co., may be seen at Barry & Patten's. The stone for the Parrott building was dressed and fitted in China. The tenants of Mr. Stevenson's build- ing accord its owner the reputation of being the most obliging landlord in the city; and it is generally understood that the building pays the best interest of any property on Montgomery street, and Mr. Stevenson's tenants do not like to look farther and fare worse.


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Hull & Ryckman were the proprietors of the " New World" building, on the northeast cor- . ner of Commercial and Leidesdorff. The lower floor was a large saloon, and the upper stories were offices and lodging rooms. We remember that a man who had been employed in the building, painting, papering, or doing something else, was remonstrated with by Mr. Ryckman for negligence or dishonesty in his work, when he became insolent, saying to Mr. Ryckman, " If you were a younger man I would whip you." "Oh, don't let that deter you in the least," said Mr. Ryckman, getting up from his chair, and closing the office door. "I'll not ask any odds on that account," he continued, walking up to the man and giving him a rousing box on the ear. The man exerted himself with all his ability, but was soon compelled to suc- cumb, and gladly departed when Mr. Ryckman pointed to the door.


Nash, Patten & Thayer built and owned the " Kremlin," on the southeast corner of Com- mercial and Leidesdorff. The lower floor was occupied by a saloon, bar and restaurant, and the upper floors by lodging rooms. The restau- rant was on the Leidesdorff side of the building. It was on the beach, in the rear of this building, where Captain Folsom shot Mr. Nathaniel Page


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-or Mr. Page's watch-as the ball struck the time-keeper, which foiled the death - dealer. This assault took place on the beach, nearer to . Halleck street than Commercial, but it was all open water outside Leidesdorff street. The tide came up under the "New World" and "Krem- lin" buildings, as late as May 4th, when both houses were destroyed by fire.


John H. Redington was of the firm of E. S. Holden & Co., druggists, on Sansome, between California and Pine, in 1850. Subsequently Mr. Redington was with Andrew J. Almy, on the southeast corner of Clay and Montgomery. Dr. Holden has since resided in Stockton, and been Mayor of that town. He is a very active railroad man, with views and energy far in ad- vance of that dozing village by the San Joaquin. Mr. Redington has been in the California Sen- ate. Mr. Almy died some years since, and W. H. Keith occupied the old store on the corner of Clay and Montgomery for some time prior to removing across the street, into Howard's building, now occupied by James G. Steele & Co.


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CHAPTER XXVII.


IN the summer of 1850 we lived in a little cottage on Montgomery street, somewhere be- tween Broadway and Vallejo; the precise spot we cannot tell, as there were no land-marks to designate street lines, the whole neighborhood being precipitous, rough and uneven, save where some little space had been leveled for a house or tent. There were very few habitations of any kind, after passing the line of Broadway.


Nearly opposite our domicile was a little tent, its only occupants, a woman and child. The mother was seldom seen; the daughter, a deli- cate, interesting child of eight or nine years, was often at the opening of the tent, shyly ob- serving us, with childlike curiosity, as we went down to the city in the morning and returned at evening. The mother and child were dressed in poor, soiled, mourning garments, but their attire could not make them seem coarse or un- refined. In the occasional glimpse of the mother, we could discern the unmistakable


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lady-that something which all can see and none describe. We never spoke with her, knew nothing of her, not even her name; but knew she was a well-bred, accomplished lady. She had a poor, jingley, old piano in her wretched, little canvas apology for a shelter; but she never indulged in any trashy music. Early in the morning and late in the evening we heard her practising, with the facility and grace of a musician-a style which even the muffling can- vas could not hide. Sometimes, though seldom, she gave a little scrap of a sonata, a fragment of Mozart, Beethoven or Sebastian Bach, with exquisite effect, but never any trash.


In our daily and constant going and coming, we made friends with the little, lonesome-look- ing girl, so pale and quiet; and she was always watching for us, morning and night-a pure pleasure for us, so far from home and children. We often brought her some trifle-a toy, a little paper of confectionery, a cake or picture-book, which she received at first shyly, but with much pleasure; and after our better acquaintance, with an unconcealed delight, that made the moment as much to us as to her poor little fragile self-worth all the day beside. One evening at our return we missed her, and lin- gered awhile to meet her, but she did not come.




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