USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The beginnings of San Francisco : from the expedition of Anza, 1774, to the city charter of April 15, 1850 : with biographical and other notes, Vol. II > Part 4
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YERBA BUENA COVE AND ISLAND From the "Annals of San Francisco."
THE MOONMANGE OF SAN FRANCISCO
Nos let er Clay ascet diminishing in both direc- des unti h disappeared; the flat below was about im bibórod toot wide at Clay street wliers the bank Mabel ik- line of Montgomery Furet. This I whoowns & Richardsou's map.
The Milu of November 14, 1792, Captain Woodyer in comminand of H. B. M. sloop- Wery sailed into the port of San Fran- A Le pioned the Punta del Cantil Blanco Wer Halad) he was saluted by Two guns, to which As night closed in a fire was lighted Ka ifu Teach before the presidio and other guns E &. he did mot underund their Der racy sail, LEKBY BLEZY CQAE VED IZTYND southern conil to constani capestallion of seeing the lights of de lown, all which he proposed to anchor. As done But not appear he found himself at eight d'dock in situg core with sit fathoms of water and a fear bottom, and he dropped his anchor to await the rium of dayIn the morning he discovered LA wo horage to be in a most excellent small bay, A mile from the nearest shore. To cante and theen grazing on the surrounding Wwwikened in the seu Skrers the most pleasing Kroons, but they could perceive neither habi- mus inhabitants. Shortly after sunrise a At Homemen were seen coming over the hills to the beach and on sew Ewe a boel to the couver was favored with the good company
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497
FATHER DANTÍ CALLS ON VANCOUVER
of a priest of the order of Franciscans and a sergeant in the Spanish army for breakfast. The priest expressed his pleasure at the arrival of the English captain and assured him he would confer special obligations upon them by commanding any re- freshment or service he or his mission could bestow. The sergeant informed Vancouver that in the absence of the commandant, he was directed to render him every accommodation the settlement could afford. Attending his visitors ashore after breakfast Vancouver was presented with a fat ox, a sheep, and some vegetables. With permission of the sergeant Vancouver erected a tent for the accommo- dation of his men engaged in procuring wood and water; this being, I presume, the first structure of any kind erected on the site of modern San Francisco. The English officers amused themselves with shooting quail and in the afternoon the boat brought off Father Antonio Dantí, principal of the San Fran- cisco mission, and Don Hermenegildo Sal, ensign in the Spanish army and comandante of the post. Sal suggested that Vancouver move his ship to the presidio anchorage as being more convenient and accessible. This was done on the following day and the Englishmen were entertained with the greatest courtesy and hospitality. Vancouver's descriptions of the country, the bay, the presidio, and the garrison are most interesting. His entertainment included a trip to Santa Clara on horseback and so pleased and appreciative was he at the courtesy shown him
498
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
that although treated with such cold and distant formality on the occasion of his second visit in 1793 that he left California in disgust, he named the point below San Luis Obispo Point Sal in honor of his San Francisco host .*
In a letter to the governor advising him of the Englishman's visit, Sal says that Vancouver entered in the night and passed down the bay and anchored about a league below the presidio in a place they called Yerba Buena.t That is the first reference we have to the name of the little cove where forty- three years later Richardson's tent marked the beginning of the modern city. Vancouver's map, which is here reproduced, shows the anchorage in Yerba Buena cove, in other words, off the foot of Market street. In this cove of Yerba Buena the Predpriatie a Russian frigate, under command of Otto von Kotzebue, dropped her anchor October
* Sal was sharply reprimanded by the governor (Arrillaga) for permitting Vancouver to see the poverty and defenceless state of the California establish- ments, and particularly for allowing him to visit the Santa Clara mission. Bancroft says, (Hist. Cal. i, 702): "It (the battery on Point San José) was known as the Battery at Yerba Buena designed to command the shore stretching westward to Fort Point and that stretching eastward to what was called later North Point, together with that body of water between that shore and Alcatraz island, already so called, known as the anchorage of Yerba Buena, though it does not appear that any other vessel except that of Van- couver ever anchored there. Thus it will be seen that the name Yerba Buena, while it may have been given in a general way to the whole eastern part of the peninsula from Black Point to Rincon Point, was applied in these early times to the North Beach region and not, as is commonly supposed and as was the case after 1830, to the cove south of Telegraph hill." "Vancouver's anchorage was about midway between Black Point and North Point. Van- couver's Voyage Atlas." Compare Vancouver's map with that of Lieutenant Warner on page 724.
VANCOUVER'S MAP OF THE ENTRANCE TO SAN FRANCISCO BAY, SHOWING HIS ANCHORAGE' Reproduced from his atlas.
For BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
Which hosted with such cold and distant The occasion of his peroni visit in le bor California in disgust, he named San Luis Obispo Point Sul in honor Prahato host .*
To Ibe governor advising hum of the Ian's wincc. Sal says that Vancouver entered inte gr and pasted down the bay and anchored Abose & Laure below the presidio in a place they called Veita Buena Y That is the first reference we have to the name of the little cove where forty- Minne pous Tun Richardson's won marked the bem dog of the modern city. Vancouver's map ro Te reduced, shows the anchorage in
ИНЕ ОТ ПРИНЯТИЯ ЭНТ НО ЧАМ З'ЯНТНОЈЛАТ foot o ИЗЈАЯОНОКА МІН БИІWOН AЯ ОбгиАяІспа the .asits aid moit bsouborqed . command o
dropped her anchor October
un fer thue governar (Arrillaga) for permitting and Cancelstate of the California establish
Juin him to visit the Santa Clara mis ion 0 .70 ): "It the battery on Point San Jo e o Vorba Buena designed to command the shor Wint and that stretching eastward to wha
ther with that body of water between that ! so called, kn , vn as the anchorage of Yerb
that any othe ve sel except that of Var Thw it will be seen that the name Yerba Buen
to the whole eastern part o
applied in these earl. t1.
wàs the
de scanhe Tongs MiL' "Vancouver'
-
You Lieutenant
-
٢٠-٦- ١ ١
9
٢٠١٠٠
PORT SC PRIVCISCO.
499
ANCHORAGE IN YERBA BUENA COVE
8, 1824, "in the little bay surrounded by a ro- mantic landscape where Vancouver formerly lay." In 1825 Captain Benjamin Morrell in the American schooner Tartar anchored in Yerba Buena cove, and November 6, 1826, Captain Frederick William Beechey, R. N., in H. M. S. Blossom entered the port and dropped his anchor "in the spot where Vancouver had moored his ship thirty-three years before." Auguste Duhaut-Cilly in the French ship Le Héros anchored here January 27, 1827. In fact so well was this anchorage becoming known that on November 14, 1827, Governor Echeandía gave orders for the erection of a guard house on the beach to be occupied by a corporal and three soldiers. If this was done, all trace of it had disappeared before December 4, 1835, when Richard Henry Dana in the ship Alert anchored in Yerba Buena cove. Around him was a solitude. The only other vessel in the cove was a Russian brig which had come down from Sitka to winter and take back a cargo of grain and tallow. On rising ground above the beach an enterprising Yankee, he says, years in advance of his time, had put up a shanty of rough boards where he carried on a very small retail trade between the hide ships and the Indians. This enterprising "Yankee" was William A. Richardson, an English- man, and the structure was simply a canvas tent stretched on pine posts. This stood on what was later Dupont street, on the block bounded by Dupont, Stockton, Clay and Washington streets.
500
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
On the site of this tent Richardson built in 1837 the adobe "Casa Grande" which up to 1848 was one of the largest and most pretentious buildings in town. This was the "Casa Fundadora" of the Limantour diseño. The house which escaped the fires that repeatedly destroyed San Francisco was taken down in 1852, and its site was afterward occupied by the Adelphi Theatre.
In February 1834 the comandante of San Francisco, Ensign M. G. Vallejo, wrote to Governor Figueroa complaining that the Villa de Branciforte which, until 1828, had reported the padrones (census lists) to the comandancia of San Francisco, now re- fused to do so and he asked to be informed what were the limits of his domain. After some cor- respondence the governor advised the comandante that his jurisdiction comprised all the territory north of the Las Pulgas rancho and of a line parallel with the boundaries of the ranchos of Castro and Peralta; that is, all the northern frontier and down to San Mateo on the peninsula and Alvarado and Niles on the contra costa. All the functions of local government-executive, judicial, and econom- ical-were exercised by the comandante. On the 4th of November Governor Figueroa addressed a letter to Vallejo stating that the territorial diputa- cion had on the previous day ordered the formation of a civil government for the partido of San Francisco by the election of an ayuntamiento consisting of one alcalde, two regidores, and a sindico-produrador,
501
THE PUEBLO FORMED
saying, "I also notify you that the ayuntamiento, when installed, will exercise the political functions with which you have been charged; and the alcalde, the judicial functions which the laws, for want of a juez de letrado confer on him; you remaining re- stricted to the military command alone; and receiv- ing, in anticipation, the thanks due for the prudence and exactness with which you have carried on the political government of that demarcation." On the same day he addressed Vallejo another letter as follows:
"Political Government of Alta California. General Comandancia of Alta California.
"This government, satisfied of the zeal and activity which characterize you, as well as the patriotism which animate you, sees in your note of the 24th of October ultimo, a new proof of your desire for progress, and of your untiring efforts for the enlightenment of your country and of your fellow citizens.
"In consideration of this, it takes pleasure in making known to you that, with the consent of the Most Excellent Territorial Diputacion, it has adopted entire the plan you have presented in your note referred to, with respect to the pueblo of San Francisco, declaring its boundary to be the same which you describe in said note; that is, commencing from the little cove (caleta) to the east of the fort, following the line drawn by you to the beach, leaving to the north the casamata and fortress; thence following the shore line of said beach to Point Lobos on its southern part; thence following a right line to the summit of El Divisadero, continuing said line towards the east to La Punta del Rincon including the Canutales and El Gentil; said line will terminate in the Bay of the Mission of Dolores.
"This government, as a proof of the confidence with which your services inspire it, has directed that you should have the honor of installing the first ayuntamiento in that pueblo of San Francisco, for which you have already done so much.
502
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
"In consequence, you will proceed in the time and manner prescribed by law, in the election of the municipal authorities, in order that they may be installed the first day of January of the coming year, 1835, designating for town houses the buildings which you deem most fit.
God and Liberty,
José Figueroa.
"Monterey, November 4, 1834. Don Mariano G. Vallejo,
Comandante Militar of San Francisco. A true copy Zamorano."
The above described line, commonly called the Vallejo line, was adopted by the United States board of land commissioners as the southern boundary of the pueblo of San Francisco, and may be indicated by a line drawn from Steamboat Point on the south side of Rincon Point (Fourth and Berry streets) to the Divisadero (Lone Mountain); thence to the south side of Point Lobos. The validity of this document was hotly contested by the attorneys for the United States in the Pueblo Lands case, but its authenticity was sworn to by Vallejo and accepted by the land commission.
The official returns show that an election was held at the presidio in the comandante's house on the 7th day of December 1834, at which eleven electors were chosen; and that these electors met on the following Sunday and chose the members of the ayuntamiento of the new pueblo who were to enter upon the duties of their respective offices on the first of January 1835. This was the first election
503
FRANCISCO DE HARO
in San Francisco, and the highest number of votes cast on December 7th was twenty-seven. Francisco de Haro was elected alcalde and Francisco Sanchez, secretary. Francisco de Haro had come in 1819 as sub-lieutenant of the San Blas infantry at the time of the Bouchard attack. He took part in various military expeditions and in 1822-3, was secretary of the newly created territorial diputacion. On May 12, 1837, he bought from José Antonio Galindo the Rancho Laguna de la Merced (San Francisco and San Mateo counties) for a consideration of one hundred cows and twenty-five dollars in goods. His wife was Josefa, daughter of José Sanchez, and his twin sons, Francisco and Ramon, were grantees in 1844, of the Potrero de San Francisco, later known as the Potrero Nuevo. These two young men, with their uncle, José Reyes Berreyesa, were among the first victims in California of the American conquest, being slain by Frémont's men at San Rafael in June 1846. The death of his sons was a terrible blow to De Haro. He would brood over their murder for days at a time and he never recovered from it. He died November 28, 1849. Francisco Sanchez was a grandson of a soldier of Anza's company of founders and his father came with the expedition. He served in the presidial company and was appointed captain of the militia company organized in 1837 for the defense of San Francisco.
504
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
He was captain of the port in 1845, and acting comandante of San Francisco at the time of its occupation by Montgomery.
The growing importance of San Francisco bay and the increasing number of ships coming for hides and tallow determined Governor Figueroa to estab- lish in Yerba Buena cove a commercial town or trading post. The cove was two and a half miles from the presidio and about the same distance from the mission. It was small and well protected and had the best anchorage in the bay. Under the instructions and guidance of the priests and after plans drawn by them, the Indians at the missions around the bay built schooners or launches in which the missions sent down their produce to the vessels in Yerba Buena cove and brought back the goods received in exchange. Captain William A. Rich- ardson, who may be considered the first inhabitant of Yerba Buena, obtained two schooners from the missions of Santa Clara and Dolores which he manned with Indian crews and employed in collecting and bringing to the ships produce from the missions and farms around the bay. He charged as freight twelve cents a hide and one dollar a bag for tallow. The tallow was melted and run into hide bags of five hundred pounds each. For grain the freight was twenty cents a fanega.
When Figueroa decided to establish a town in the Paraje de Yerba Buena he withdrew from settlement the land running two hundred varas back from the
Linero del Pueblo pla la playa del N.O.
Lina del Monte
Monte
Solar de D" Guille Richardson
Pueblo
Aqua
1
₡
Calle de la fundacion
del
Mision
Lindero
1
-
Lomas y Montes
Loma
-
Lina Monte
· Cañada
--
Aguna Salina
-
Cantil
Laguna butte
playa
Punta del Embarcadero
Baja Mar
RICHARDSON'S PLAN OF Facsimile of an exhibit in the Limantour C
Terra plana po oficina del Gobierno
1
.
Lomas de Arena
Camino la
505
RICHARDSON'S PLAN FOR THE TOWN
water front. He also instructed Richardson to draw a plan for the town; this was done and the plan accepted. I reproduce the draft. He made but one street, the "Calle de la Fundacion," upon which he projected the "Solar de Dr. Guillo. Richardson." On September 29, 1835, Figueroa died, leaving a reputation for honesty and ability in the discharge of his duties.
About the middle of 1835 José Joaquin Estudillo applied to the governor for a grant of two hundred varas of land in the place called Yerba Buena. As the application was for a larger amount than that designated for house lots (solares) the matter was referred to the territorial diputacion which decided that the ayuntamiento of San Francisco had power to grant lots of one hundred varas in the place called Yerba Buena, at a distance of two hundred varas from the beach. I find no record of Estudillo's receiving this lot. The first grant on record is that to William A. Richardson, June 2, 1836, and is signed by Estudillo, he having been elected alcalde January Ist. Richardson claimed that he had been granted the lot in 1835. He had probably been permitted to occupy it provisionally in that year, as it was in 1835 that he had put up the structure described by Dana. In 1837 he built the "Casa Grande" on the site of the tent.
In the winter of 1835-6 Jacob Primer Leese, a native of Ohio, then residing in Los Angeles, was advised by some shipowners, trading on the coast,
506
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
to establish a store and commission house in San Francisco. He consulted his friends Nathan Spear and William S. Hinckley of Monterey, and induced them to join in a partnership for establishing a business in that place. Through the favor of Governor Chico he obtained the grant of a one hun- dred vara lot on what was later the block bounded by Dupont, Stockton, Sacramento, and Clay streets and there built the first house in Yerba Buena. It was completed in time for a celebration of the fourth of July 1836, and the American flag was on that day hoisted for the first time in San Francisco. The celebration was a great event. Leese invited the officers of the frontier garrison, the people of the mission, the officers of the ships in the harbor, and the rancheros of the whole country side. They came from Sausalito, from Cañada del Hambre, from San Antonio, from San Pedro, Las Pulgas, and from far and near. Lieutenant Martinez and his handsome daughters, Susana, Francisca, Rafaela, and Dolores were there; Richardson and his wife- another daughter of Martinez-with their daughter, Mariana; Victor Castro and wife-another daughter of Martinez; José Joaquin Estudillo and wife and daughter Concepcion; Francisco Guerrero and his beautiful wife, Josefa, a daughter of Francisco de Haro; De Haro and his daughters Rosalia and Natividad-all the beauty, wealth, and fashion of northern California graced the festivities, and the
SAN FRANCISCO IN 1837 From a lithograph of the original drawing by JOHN J. VIOGET, certified by JACOB P. LEESE.
Th BEIASILOS OF SAS FRANCIS( )
dure and commisnen ucawe in San Fre Malted his friends Nathan Spear Welley of Monterey, and induced partnership for establishing a That place. Through the favor of Libu be obtained the grant of a one hun- Id on whey was later the block bounded By The 15 50sken, Sacramento, and Clay streets Dans les the first house in Yerba Buena. It . wwwopined In time for a celebration of the fourth TEY 18 6, and the American flag was on that 0 465 for the first time in San Francisco. rollon was a great event Lerse invited Wmontier Parrion, the people of
's in the harbor,
vd gniwsib Isnigiro ods to dqsigodtil & mort.
.nezaI q lobAl yd boAtitiso TabolV . I MHol fide. They
From Canada del Hambre,
Trony San Pedro, Las Pulgas, wu from lar and near. Lieutenant Martinez and Ho oudsom e daughters, Susana, Francisca, Rafaela, mil Ex loyee were there; Richardson and his wife- an thes doughrim of Martinez with their daughter, Mawww, Victor Castro and wife another daughter di Maria Jome Joaquin Astudillo and wife and Sángbut Lawcepsion; Francisco Guerrero and his lowsomit wór. Josefa, a daughter of Francisco de It. De Haro Bod bis daughters Realia and Nativilid all the beauty, wealth, and fashion of wodhvor California graced the fumivities, and the
-
( NOW SAN FRANCISCO ) IN THE SPRING OF 18ST.
Faut P Les YERBA BUENA
... .
-
1
507
FIRST BUILDING ON MONTGOMERY STREET
feasting, dancing, and other forms of entertainment including a picnic at Rincon Point, were kept up for three days.
Leese's house was used for a store and dwelling, but he found it inconvenient to do business so far from the water. Both Richardson's and Leese's lots, which were adjoining, fronted on Richardson's "Calle de la Fundacion," a road running from northeast to southwest and leading from Yerba Buena to the presidio. Later this portion of the road was swung into its present position as Dupont street, by Jasper O'Farrell. In 1837, or 1838, Leese obtained permission to erect a building on a hundred vara lot near the beach. Here he built a large wooden store and dwelling on what became the westerly line of Montgomery street, between Sacra- mento and Clay, where he lived and conducted his business until 1841, when he sold the building and the four lots* to the Hudson's Bay company.36
Near the beginning of 1838 Nathan Spear, a native of Boston who came in 1823 via Honolulu, bought of Captain Steele, master of the American bark Kent, a ship's house twelve by eighteen feet, and placed it near the beach on what is now the northwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets. Spear was permitted to occupy this lot by Governor Alvarado, who was a personal friend. He would not be naturalized and could not, therefore, be granted land. A little later Spear built a wooden
* A one hundred vara lot makes four fifty vara lots.
508
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
store building just north of "Kent Hall," as the ship's house was called, and here he lived and conducted his business until 1846, when he sold out his business and his half of the lot to William H. Davis. In 1838 John Perry, an American mer- chant, came from Realejo, Nicaragua, and asso- ciated himself with Spear in business; Perry became naturalized and Alvarado granted to him the fifty vara lot which Spear occupied and he deeded it to Spear. William S. Hinckley, Spear's partner, owned the north half of the lot.
On the 18th of January 1839 Governor Alvarado addressed an official communication to the alcalde of San Francisco, in which he stated that inasmuch as many individuals had asked for solares for building houses in the lands of Yerba Buena which had previously been withdrawn from settlement, and as he was desirous of advancing the commerce in that recent congregation of settlers, he therefore had decreed that grants for house lots could be made of any part of said prohibited lands.
JACOB P. LEESE
Born in St. Clairsville, Ohio, August 19, 1809; died in San Francisco, February, 1892; came to California in 1833; built the first dwelling in Yerba Buena (San Francisco) in 1836 and established the first business house.
ROSALIA LEESE The first child born in Yerba Buena (San Francisco), born April 15, 1838.
THE BEGINKINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
More building just north of "Kme Hall" as the ship's home was called, and here he lived and cowtuled Tos business until 1816, when he sold ont Il bwines and his half of the Jot to William 1878 John Perry, an American mer- 17 % foon Realejo, Nicaragua, and asso- ali -if with Spesr in business; Perry became Gurbet and Alvarado granted to him the fifty was In which Spear orcepie and be deeded it to Spokr Wwtm S. Hinckley Spul'i partner, owned The north ito
or Alvarado ni beib ;0081 .QI Jaugul oidO affivaiis? . 12 ni mod alcalde
.sauod zeniaud saint ont bolleildstes bisders for
of Yerba Buena which
Lawn from settlement,
W desire8881 21 liqwancing the commerce m ihal recent congregation of letters, he therefore bol decreed That grants for house lots could be made Many pur of said prohibited lands.
CHAPTER XV. THE VILLAGE OF YERBA BUENA 1839-1846
I N the year 1835 the bay of San Francisco was a vast solitude through whose bordering groves ranged the red deer, the elk, and the antelope, while bears, and panthers, and other ferocious beasts frequented the hills and often descended upon the scattered farm yards. The five mission establishments in its vicinity did not contain above two hundred white inhabitants while the few ranchos were of great extent and widely separated. Boats manned by Indians came down the creeks from the missions with their loads of hides and tallow for the ships anchored in Yerba Buena cove. The growth of the little settlement was slow and in 1844 it contained only about a dozen houses and not over fifty permanent inhabitants.
In 1839 Governor Alvarado ordered a survey of Yerba Buena, and the alcalde, Francisco de Haro, employed Jean Jacques Vioget, a Swiss sailor and surveyor, to do the work which was completed in the fall of that year. Vioget's survey laid out the blocks between Pacific, California, Montgomery, and Dupont streets, and shows Dupont street intersected at Clay by the Calle de la Fundacion, which branched off to the northwest towards the "Puerto suelo." Montgomery street is interrupted at Clay street by a lagoon that made in from the beach and occupied portions of the two Montgomery street blocks between Clay and Pacific streets. On the south, Montgomery street was again inter-
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