USA > California > The conquest of California and New Mexico, by the forces of the United States, in the years 1846 & 1847 > Part 2
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"The southern part of Upper California, between the Pacific and the great westermost chain of mountains, is very hot and dry, 'ex- cept during a short time in winter. Further north the wet season increases in length, and about the Bay of San Francisco the rains are almost constant from November to April, the earth being moist- 3 2 2
18
GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE.
cned during the remainder of the year by heavy dews and fogs. Snow and ice are sometimes seen in the winter on the shores of this bay, but never further south, except on the mountain-tops. The whole of California is, however, subject to long droughts."* Heavy rains are of rare occurrence, and two years without any is not unusual ; notwithstanding which, vegetation does not suffer to the extent that might be inferred, because, in the first place, many small streams descend from the mountain ranges, supplying the means of both natural and artificial irrigation ; and, next, that the country near the coast is favoured with a diurnal land and sea breeze; and, from the comparatively low temperature of the sea, the latter is always in summer accompanied with fogs, in the latter part of the night, and which are dissipated by the morning's sun, but serve to moisten the pastures and nourish a somewhat peculiar vegetation abounding in beautiful flowers.
"Among the valleys of Upper California are many streams, some of which discharge large quantities of water in the rainy season ; but no river is known to flow through the maritime ridge of mountains from the interior to the Pacific, except perhaps the Sacramento, falling into the Bay of San Francisco, though several are thus represented on the maps. The valleys thus watered afford abundant pasturage for cattle, with which they are covered; California, however, contains but two tracts of country capable of supporting large numbers of inhabitants, which are that west of Mount San Bernardin, about the 34th degree of latitude, and that surrounding the Bay of San Francisco, and the lower part of the Sacramento ; and even in these, irrigation would be indispensable to insure success in agriculture."
In reply to inquiries of the author of these sketches, as to the area of Upper California, William Darby, the well-known Ameri- can geographer, writes : "The provincial terms of New Mexico, and of Upper and Lower California, have been, and are yet, rather designations of indefinite tracts than of real defined political sec- tions. The Pacific ocean limits on the west, and by treaty, N. lat. 42° on the north ; but inland and southward, it is in vain
* Greenhow.
19
GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE.
to seek any definite boundary. In order, however, to give as dis- tinct a view as the nature of the case will admit, let us adopt the mouth of the Colorado and Gila, or the head of the Gulf of Cali- fornia, as a point on the southern boundary of Upper California. The point assumed coincides very nearly with N. lat. 32°, and, if adopted, would give to that country a breadth of ten degrees of latitude, or in round numbers 800 statute miles from south to north. As already stated, the Pacific Ocean bounds this country on the west, and lat. 42° on the north. To separate it on the east from New Mexico, we must assume the mountain chain of the Sierra Madre, or Anahuac, which, in this region, inclines but little from north and south : whilst the Pacific coast extends in general- course north-west and south-east. These opposite outlines contract the southern side to about 500 miles, and open the northern side to rather above 800 miles ; giving a mean breadth of 650 miles. The area, for all general purposes, may be safely taken at 500,000 square miles. The general slope or declination of this great region is westward, towards the Pacific and Gulf of Cali- fornia."
Mr. Darby adds : "The climate of the western slope of North America has a warmth ten degrees at least higher than the eastern, upon similar latitude. The cause of this difference is the course of prevailing winds in the temperate zones of the earth, from the western points. Thus the winds on the western side of the conti- nent are from the ocean, and on the eastern from the land. I have in the present case given ten degrees of difference, in order to be within bounds ; but am confident that above N. lat. 32º, and within two or three hundred miles from the ocean, the climatic difference in winter, on equal elevations of surface, is far nearer twenty than ten." The author's investigations would lead him to the convic- tion that the climatic difference is considerably above ten degrees, and that Mr. Darby may be correct as to the higher point. It is, however, a subject yet undetermined, and one which the author is aware now engages the philosophical investigation of one of the ablest and most deservedly honored sages of America, Albert Gallatin, from whose conclusions the public will need no appeal.
20
GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE.
The visit of Captain Wilkes, of the United States Exploring Expedition, was made in 1841. He refers to very great difficulty in obtaining accurate information in relation to Upper California ; the country, at the time of his visit, and for several years previous, having been in a state of revolution. He found it suffering under · a drought of eleven months' continuance, and hence his first view was unfavourable as to its beauty or fertility, nor did subsequent experience materially alter this impression, except as to the regions to which allusion has been already made.
" The soil is as variable as the face of the country. On the coast range of hills there is little to invite the agriculturist, except in some vales of no great extent. These hills are, however, admirably adapted for raising herds and flocks, and are at present the feeding-grounds of numerous deer, elk, &c., to which the short, sweet grass and wild oats that are spread over them afford a plentiful supply of food." Captain Wilkes concludes: "The valley of the Sacra- mento, and that of San Juan are the most fruitful parts of California. particularly the latter, which is capable of producing wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, &c., with all the fruits of the temperate, and many of the tropical climates. It likewise offers pasture grounds for cattle. This region comprises a level plain, from fifteen to twenty miles in width, extending from the bay of San Francisco, beyond the mission of that name, north and south. This may be termed the garden of California ; but although several small streams and lakes serve to water it, yet in dry seasons or droughts, not only the crops but the herbage also suffers extremely, and the cattle are deprived of food." The most extensive portion of Upper Cali- fornia-the inland plain between the "California" and the Colorado range of mountains-is an arid waste, destitute of the requisites for supplying the wants of man. "This plain is a waste of sand, with a few detached mountains (some of which rise to the region of perpetual snow) whose positions are unknown; from these flow small streams that are soon lost in the sand. A few Indians are scattered over the plain, the most miserable objects in crea- tion."
The climate varies as much or more than its natural features
21
GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE.
and soil. On the coast range, it has as high a mean temperature in winter as in summer. In fact, the latter is the coldest part of the year owing to the prevalence of cold,. damp and uncomfortable north-west winds, rendering fire often necessary for comfort in mid- summer. Thirty miles, however, from the coast, the climate undergoes a great change, and according to Captain Wilkes, "in no part of the world is there to be found a finer or a more equable one than in the valley of San Juan," and none can be more salubrious.
The Sacramento is the largest river in California. The San Joachim is next in importance. "There are many small streams that flow through the different valleys, and afford partial opportu- nities for irrigating the land ; but there are none of them navigable except the Sacramento."
Upper California has one of the finest harbours in the world, in which the combined fleets of all the naval powers of Europe might ride in safety. "This, however, is the only real good har- bour which the country possesses ; for the others so called may be frequented only during the fine season, being nothing more than roadsteads, affording little safety and but few supplies to vessels."
" Among these bays are that of Monterey, the capital of Upper California, and that of Santa Barbara and San Pedro. The two last are partly protected from the swell of the Pacific ocean by the islands that cover them."*
The yield of wheat, small grain and vegetables, is said to be great, and very remarkable, but, as agriculture cannot succeed in Upper California, but by irrigation, it has hitherto happened that it has been principally occupied as a pastoral country-as costing least labour to rear cattle, for which it is only necessary to pro- vide keepers, and have them marked. The numerous animals which are there slaughtered for little more than their hides and tallow, do not putrefy and become offensive as they would in other climates, but, as wood is not everywhere as abundant as their
* Captain Wilkes.
22
GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE.
bones, the last are sometimes used to supply the place of the former, in the construction of garden fences, &c.
The principal towns are enumerated by M. de Mofras, together with their population. His account of the soil, exports, &c., is interesting, and accurate, doubtless, of the time to which it refers. Since then, however, the population has been increased by emi- gration. M. de Mofras gives a very minute account of the state of affairs in California, in 1842. His work was published under the immediate direction of the French minister, Marshal Soult, by order of the king of France.
The area of Upper California he gives at 500,000 square miles, and the population exclusive of Indians scattered over this extent he classifies as follows :
Californians descended from Spain, 4000
Americans from United States,
360
English, Scotch, and Irish, 300
European Spaniards, 80
French and Canadians,
*80
Germans, Italians, Portuguese and Sandwich islanders, 90
Mexicans,
90
Total,
5000
Among the English and Americans, he states, are many run- away seamen, but most of them are immigrants from the west. The location of this population is given as follows :
San Diego,
1300
- Santa Barbara,
- 800
Monterey,
1000
San Francisco,
800
Scattered,
1100
Total, . 5000
The three most important establishments in the country, are the factories of the Hudson Bay company, and the most important of all, New Helvetia, founded by Captain Sutter, a retired officer of the Swiss Guards of Charles X., disbanded at the revolution of the three days of 1830. This enterprising gentleman emigrated from
23
GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE.
Missouri to California, in 1838, 1839, and has formed the nucleus of the future empire on the Pacific. Captain Fremont, on his visit to Captain Sutter, 1844, states that on his first settlement he had some trouble with the Indians, but by the occasional exercise of well-timed authority, converted them into a peaceable and in- dustrious people. On application to the chief of a village, he obtained as many boys and girls as he can employ; and there was at that time a number in training for a woollen factory. He bought out the stock of a Russian establishment, the owners of which wished to leave the country, consisting of a large number of cattle, artillery, &c., and makes payment for them annually in grain. His fort mounts twelve cannon, and can hold 1000 men, but is garrisoned with forty Indians, in uniform. The imports and exports of California, M. de Mofras gives as follows :
Imports.
Exports.
Mexican flag,
50,000
65,000
United States flag,
70,000
150,000
English flag,
20,000
45,000
Miscellaneous flag,
10,000
20,000
Total,
150,000
280,000
The articles exported are, hides $210,000; tallow $55,000; peltries, wood, &c. $15,000; total $280,000. The business done under the Mexican flag is not in Mexican vessels, but in those belonging to citizens of other countries, doing business in Mexico. In 1841, of eleven vessels that reached California under the Mexican flag, only one, a boat of eighty-six tons, in the service of the government, was Mexican. In relation to the soil of Cali- fornia, he remarks as follows :
" The soil is often in the valleys, two metres deep : the superior strata are formed in part of organic detritus, and are, of course, extremely fertile. The soil is never naked, grass covers it through the whole year. The gramineous plants attain the height of eight or ten feet. But the trees of California, if not the largest, are at any rate the tallest, on the globe.
"The seasons follow the same course as in (southern) Europe, and the year is divided into two well-marked parts, the season of
1
24
GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE.
rains, which begins in October and ends in March, and the dry season, which embraces the remaining six months of spring and summer.
" Once only since the colonization of the country, has snow been known to fall in the plains.
" To resume, Upper California is, on the whole, admirably fitted for colonization. This province presents the greatest facilities for raising cattle, for cultivating corn, plants, and for the grape ; it might contain twenty millions of inhabitants ; and its ports are a point of necessary communication for vessels going from China and Asia to the western coasts of North America ..
"It is beyond doubt, that so soon as an intelligent and laborious population is established there, this country will occupy an ele- vated rank in the commercial scale ; it would form the entrepôt where the coasts of the great ocean would send their products, and would furnish the greatest part of their subsistence in grains to the north-west, to Mexico, to Central America, to Ecuador, to Peru, to the north coast of Asia, and to many groups of Polynesia -such as the Sandwich isles, the Marquesas, and Tahiti."
The number of emigrants that have arrived, as far as heard from, may be estimated as about three thousand. Others are on their way, to a much greater amount.
Of the present condition of the country, in addition to what will be necessarily said in other chapters, as connected with mili- tary events, the following extract from the "California Star," edited by the chief of the Mormon emigrants, will, perhaps, suffice for the purposes of our mere outlines :
" YERBA BUENA AND SAN FRANCISCO BAY .- The only journal upon which the people at a distance can rely, with any degree of certainty for facts and correct description, is the plain but well- written work of Col. J. C. Fremont, which we recommend to every one who feels an interest in learning any thing in relation to the former history or late condition of the country.
"In consequence of the difficulty which Colonel Fremont laboured under in getting access to the different parts of the country, he was unable to give that accurate information relative to this
25
YERBA BUENA.
part, which he could and would have done under other circum- stances. To supply the deficiency in all these works, (some of which have obtained an extensive circulation,) so far as it relates to this part of California, we have obtained from the most authen- tic sources the description of the town and bay, which follows :
" Yerba Buena, the name of our town, which means, GOOD HERB, is situated on the south-west side of the principal arm of San Francisco Bay, about five miles from the ocean, on a narrow neck of land, varying from four to ten miles in width-the narrowest place being sixteen miles south-west of the town. It is in latitude 37° 45' north. This narrow slip of land is about sixty miles in length, extending from the point formed by the bay and the ocean to the valley of San Jose. The site of the town is handsome and commanding, being an inclined plane of about a mile in extent from the water's edge to the hills in the rear. Two points of land-one on each side, extending into the bay-form a crescent, or a small bay in the shape of a crescent, in front, which bears the name of the town. These points afford a fine view of the surrounding country-the snow-capped mountains in the dis- tance-the green valleys beneath them-the beautiful, smooth, and unruffled bay in front and on either side, at once burst upon the eye. There is in front of the town a small island, rising high above the surface of the bay, about two miles long and one wide, which is covered, the greater part of the year, with the most exu- berant herbage of untrodden freshness. This little island is about three miles from the shore. Between it and the town is the prin- cipal anchorage. Here the vessels of all nations rest in safety and peace, and their flags are displayed by the aromatic breeze. Two hundred yards from the shore, there is twenty-four feet water, and a short distance beyond that as many fathoms. The beach, immediately in front of the now business part of the town, is shelving, but it will, no doubt, in a short time be filled up, and become the most valuable part of the place.
"The climate here is, in the winter, which is the rainy season, damp and chilly. During the balance of the year, it is dry, but chilly in consequence of the continual strong winds from north C
26
VALLEY OF SAN JOSE.
and north-west. There is but little variation in the atmosphere throughout the year; the thermometer ranging from fifty-five to seventy degrees, Fahrenheit.
" Yerba Buena is one of the most healthy places on the whole coast of the Pacific. Sickness of any kind is rarely known among us. The salubrity of the climate-beauty of the site of the town-its contiguity to the mouth of the bay-the finest har- bour on the whole coast, in front-the rich and beautiful country around it, all conspire to render it one of the best commercial points in the world.
"The town is new, having been laid off in 1839, by Captain John Viogt, and, notwithstanding all the troubles in the country, has gradually increased in size and importance. It now contains a population of about 500 permanent citizens. Two years ago there were but about 200.
"Three miles south is the mission Dolores, on Mission Creek, surrounded by a small valley of rich and beautiful land. The water from this creek can easily be brought by means of aque- ducts to any point to supply vessels. For the supply of the citi- zens, the best of well-water is obtained in every part of the town, by boring the distance of forty feet.
" In going south from Yerba Buena, the traveller passes over this narrow neck of land ; a most delightful region, interspersed with hills, valleys, and mountains-the valleys rich and beauti- ful-the hills covered with tall pines, red wood, and cedar, that have withstood the tempests and whirlwinds of a century, and the mountains rising in majestic grandeur to the clouds. In passing out, the valley of San Jose opens to the view in all the loveliness of the climate of Italy, and beauty of the tropics. This valley is about sixty miles in length, and ten in width. The Puebla (which means an incorporated town) is the principal place of busi- ness for the valley, and is about five miles from Santa Clara, the landing on the bay, or, as it is termed here, ' the embarcadero.' Passing on from here, north-east, the traveller, in a few hours' ride, reaches the straits which separate the Suisun Bay, formed by the confluence of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, from
27
SOIL OF CALIFORNIA.
that of San Pablo. Here it seems that the accumulated waters of a thousand years had suddenly rent the opposing mountain asunder, and flowed with tremendous force to the great bosom of the deep.
" On the north side of the bay, from the straits to Sausilita, is one of the finest districts of country in all Upper California.
" Next to Yerba Buena, Sausilita is the best point on the whole bay for a commercial town. It is seven miles, a little east of north, from this place, on the opposite side of the bay, and has long been a watering point for vessels.
" An attempt has recently been made to lay off and build up a town at the straits, to supersede the two last-mentioned places. It will, no doubt, however, be an entire failure.
"San Francisco bay being the safest and most commodious har- bour on the entire coast of the Pacific, some point on it must be the great mart of the Western World. We believe Yerba Buena is the point, commanding, as it does now, all the trade of the sur- rounding country, and there being already a large amount of capi- tal concentrated here.
" The town of Yerba Buena is called, in some of the old maps of the country, San Francisco. It is not known by that name here, however.
" The town takes its name from an herb to be found all around it, which is said to make good tea, and possessing excellent me- dicinal qualities ; it is called good herb, or Yerba Buena."
The Honourable Willard P. Hall, member of the House of Representatives of the United States, who, it will be seen in a sub- sequent chapter, brought opportunity and intelligence to the proper determination of the geographical character of the country, thus expressed himself :- " As to California, I am not prepared to speak with much certainty. All I can say is, the climate is de- lightful, the situation is excellent, but the soil is not to compare with ours (of Missouri.) It rains but little, and crops can only be raised by irrigating the land. California is a good stock country, the grass is now green, and resembles ours in May. I am told
28
NEW MEXICO.
every thing is parched up in summer. The valleys are small, and the mountains many and extensive."
On the other hand, publications giving an enthusiastic commen- dation of California have appeared in the newspapers of the day, but generally without the name of the author, whereby their ex- perience might be tested.
New Mexico, lying eastward of Upper California, and separated from it by the mountain chain of the Sierra Madre, has, as already observed, never been accurately defined. It may, for all useful purposes, be restricted to the narrow valley of the Upper Rio Grande. The name of "New Mexico" was applied by the early Spanish conquerors to their possessions along the north-west coast. Under later Mexican viceroys, "New Mexico" referred to the intendancy on the Rio Grande. In 1803, Humboldt supposed this intendancy to contain 44,000 square miles, and 40,000 inhabit- ants. Lieut. Abert, who accompanied Gen. Kearny to Santa Fé, estimates the population, from official records that fell under his inspection at Santa Fé, at about 100,000. Humboldt and all others who have described this country, represent it as generally sterile, and, for its latitude, excessively cold-the coldness compared with its latitude proving its great elevation above the oceanic level. "It would be presumption to assign an area, even approximately, to a country not one outline of which we can fix with any exactness."* It is true that Humboldt lays down the boundary, but changes have so altered the acceptation of the geographical term "New Mexico," as to produce the conclusion at which Mr. Darby arrives. Of other particulars of this country, enough will, perhaps, be said in the course of the military narrative, to render our sketches intelli- gible to the general reader. Those who seek a more detailed knowledge of California and New Mexico, will doubtless refer to the very interesting and able works here quoted, as well as to others.
. Wm. Darby.
1 29
MILITARY OPERATIONS IN MEXICO.
CHAPTER III.
Principal Military and Naval events of the Mexican War, antecedent to, and cotemporaneous with the operations of the forces in California and New Mexico.
A SERIES of military achievements more uninterruptedly suc- cessful than history has record of, already covers the reputation of Scott and Taylor, and of their Generals, together with that of their coadjutors, with such renown as will for ever form a part of the inheritance of American patriotism. It is not within the scope of this work to enlarge upon their fame, however grateful the undertaking, but rather to enumerate in this chapter, somewhat chronologically, their principal battles, &c .; so that when events, which so greatly distinguished the skill and energy of commanders and their conrades in another quarter of the war, come to be here spoken of, they may readily be compared in point of time with like heroic deeds of their fellow soldiers further south.
General Taylor took position, at Corpus Christi, on the 15th August, 1845; from thence moved westward, on the 11th March, 1846 ; and, on the 28th of same month, reached the east bank of the Rio Grande, opposite to Matamoras. These movements were made in pursuance of orders from the War Department, issued 28th May, 1845, and 13th January, 1846.
Mexican battery opened on Fort Brown, May 3d, 1846.
Matamoras occupied by the American forces under Major- general Taylor, May 18, 1846.
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