USA > California > Santa Barbara County > Santa Barbara > The early days of Santa Barbara, California, from the first discoveries by Europeans to December, 1846 > Part 2
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Natives undoubtedly inhabited this coast for many generations, as their bural places would indicate. Their numbers have been generally over-estimated, yet the valleys about Santa Barbara were very populous at the time of the arrival of the first Europeans. But with the founding of the Presidio, the idle, careless life which for ages of the past they and their ancestors had lived, was with one stroke ended. Civilization, indis- pensable to those reared amidst its blessings, was fatal
21
THE ABORIGINES
to these children of barbarism; and in a few years nearly all passed away.
The story of the lost Indian woman of San Nicholas Island well illustrates to what crude conditions of liv- ing the Indians could adapt themselves; yet how dele- terious were the effects of the comforts of civilization. Formerly a large number of Indians lived on the Is- land, but many were exterminated by a force of Indians from Alaska, who accompanied a party of Russians on one of their periodical visits to hunt otter.
In the year 1835, a schooner, named Peor es nada," was sent by the padres to bring the remaining Indians to the mainland. After they were collected on the beach, prepared to embark, one of the women, noticing the absence of her child, begged the captain of the schooner to wait while she went to search for it. Be- fore her return, a storm of great violence arose; and as there was no harbor at the island, it became necessary to set sail and run before the wind. After the storm abated, the schooner made its way to San Pedro, and the Indians were taken from there to the Mission ranch- erias. It was the intention of the captain of the schoon- er to return to the island for the woman; but he was ordered by the owners to sail for Monterey and take a cargo of lumber from that port to San Francisco. While entering the Golden Gate, the schooner was cap- sized and her crew were lost; and as there was no other vesssel on the southern coast sufficiently large to make the passage to San Nicholas with safety, all hope of im- mediately rescuing the woman was abandoned and she was soon forgotten.
In 1851; Mr. George Nidever, when visiting the island, was surprised to find, on the hard beach, human footprints the size of a woman's foot. Before he was able to make any satisfactory investigation, a strong
*NOTE :- The English equivalent is "Nothing is worse."
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EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
wind arose, which made his stay at the island precar- ious, and he returned to the mainland.
Reference to the footprints recalled to the minds of others the fact that an Indian woman had been aband- oned on the island sixteen years before. In the follow- ing year Mr. Nidever returned to the island in the hope of finding her; but again a storm drove him away be- fore meeting with any success.
In July, 1853, he again sailed for the island with a crew of men, prepared to make a thorough search. The first day spent on the island they were unsuccessful, but on the second day a basket was found; and shortly after- wards, three small huts made of ribs of the whale and covered with brush were discovered. A short distance from the huts they observed another, in which was seated an Indian woman surrounded by dogs. She pre- sented a most strange appearance with her long hair falling over her bare shoulders, and with a garment, made of the greenish black feathered skins of the cor- morant, partly covering the rest of her body. By her side were some roots, and when first noticed, she was in the act of separating some blubber from a piece of seal skin.
She had probably not seen a human being for eigh- teen years, and showed signs of alarm at sight of Mr. Nidever and his companions; but when they ap- proached and showed no disposition to harm her, she arose and offered them some of the roots to eat. She had undoubtedly lost the faculty of expressing herself in language, as neither Mr. Nidever nor any of the Indians who afterward met her could understand what she said; yet when by signs he conveyed to her the idea that she was to accompany him to the mainland, she showed much pleasure and hastily gathered together her few belongings in readiness to depart. Among these were a number of water-tight vessels, similar in appear-
23
THE ABORIGINES
ance to jars, but constructed of grass and lined with bitumen.
The party remained a month at the island, during which time she cheerfully assisted in the work; and when not otherwise engaged wove baskets of grass, which she lined with bitumen, by placing in the bottom a small portion, and upon this a pebble heated very hot. The basket was then rotated rapidly, so that the melting bitumen spread and covered the inside with a smooth coating.
Upon reaching Santa Barbara, she was taken to the home of Mr. Nidever, where she was cared for by his wife. It was supposed that her child had died, soon after she was abandoned on the island; and, evidently, her only companions were the dogs. Although never able to express herself so as to be understood, yet she was of a cheerful disposition, and frequently sang when at work. She lived, however, only a very short time after her rescue from the island, and her death was un- doubtedly due to changed conditions of living.
THE EARLY EXPLORERS
AFTER the conquest of Mexico and the discovery of the Pacific several explorers, eager to emulate the suc- cess of Cortez and Balboa, sailed along the western coast of North America. One of them, Juan Roder- iguez Cabrillo, was the discoverer of Alta California, and was the first European who is known to have visited the shore of Santa Barbara. He was a navigator of con- siderable energy and courage, and although a Portu- guese by birth, was engaged in the service of Spain. Believing that the Atlantic and Pacific oceans met in such latitudes as would afford an easy communication between the old world and the new, he resolved, if pos- sible, to make this discovery.
Accordingly, he set sail with his two ships on the 27th of June, 1542, from the Port of Navidad, Mexico. He directed his course northward, and after touching at several points of Baja California entered the harbor of San Diego, in September of that year, and thus became the discoverer of Alta California. Leaving San Diego a few days later, he continued his voyage up the coast, landing at the different islands as he passed, and touch- ing at different points on the mainland, at each of which places he went through the formality of taking posses- sion of the land in the name of his soverign.
About the middle of October, just fifty years after Columbus discovered America, he entered the harbor of the present City of Santa Barbara, and as he ap- proached the shore he was met by natives, who went out in their canoes and received him with demonstrations of friendliness. It has been maintained that he landed on the beach of the present City of Santa Barbara, and was conducted by the Indians to their village, where
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THE EARLY EXPLORERS
presents were exchanged. After leaving the valley of Santa Barbara, which he described as one of great fer- tility, he crossed to the Islands of Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, and San Miguel; and thence continued his way northward to a point on the coast almost within sight of the bay of San Francisco.
The severity of the winter storm made it impractica- ble to proceed further; and, accordingly, he returned southward and landed on the Island of San Miguel. It was his intention to winter there and recover from a recent injury to his arm; but on January 3, 1543, he died. On that little island of the Pacific, in sight of the lands of his discovery, within sound of the never-ceas- ing roar of the ocean, which he had made subservient to his purpose, the great explorer found a fit resting- place. No trace of his grave remains. His name and his deeds are almost forgotten.
Other voyages followed, and in the summer of 1602, Sebastian Viscaino set sail from Acapulco, with three large vessels and a transport. Under his command was a force of about two hundred men, and three Carmelite friars. He directed his course northward along the western coast of North America, and on the 12th of November, 1603, entered the harbor of San Diego, where he remained ten days. He then continued his course to the north and entered the present harbor of Santa Barbara.
One of the Carmelite friars who accompanied Vis- caino, was Antonio de la Ascension, a man of consider- able learning who compiled information regarding the countries visited, made maps, and gave names to the places visited. It was his custom to name each new place after the particular saint whose festival occurred on the day on which the place was entered. Conse- quently, the 4th of December being the anniversary of the death of Santa Barbara, her name was given to the
26
EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
bay which they entered that day and to the shore where the City of Santa Barbara is now located.
Some authorities claim, however, that Viscaino did not land on the shore at Santa Barbara, but that the ships were visited by the natives, who went out in their canoes and welcomed the newcomers with solemn chanting. Afterwards the chief of the Indians went aboard the ship of Viscaino with presents, and observ- ing that the sailors were unaccompanied by their wives, and wishing to persuade them to visit his people, he offered as an inducement to give ten wives to each sailor. But as Viscaino did not regard the inducement suffi- ciently alluring, he continued his voyage northward and then returned to Mexico. Although he was not the first discoverer of California, yet his voyage was im- portant on account of the maps and authentic informa- tion which he was able to furnish Europe, regarding this part of the world.
The history of the patron saint of Santa Barbara must be of interest to all who visit the city named after her; and while some discredit has been thrown upon the legend, yet it probably contains much that is true, as the essential features are in keeping with the spirit of the age when she is said to have lived. It is related that she was born in the year A. D. 218, in Nicomedia, a city of northern Asia Minor, and was a daughter of Dioscorus, a man of rank and influence among the Romans. At this time, Alexander Severus, an emperor friendly to the Christians, ruled at Rome; and it is not improbable, as is related, that Barbara was made a convert to Chris- tianity by the famous Origen, who lived at that time. Upon the assassination of Severus and the usurpation of Maximinus, a great change took place in the treat- ment of the Christians by the Romans. Origen tells us that Maximinus, fearing that the Christians would avenge the death of Alexander Severus, commanded that the bishops and other Christians of influence
.
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THE EARLY EXPLORERS
should be killed. Acting under the authority of this edict, the pagan priests and magistrates persecuted and put to death, not only the bishops, but the Christians of all orders.
The legend of Santa Barbara relates further, that Dioscorus was one of the many who were indefatigable in their persecution. His cruelty was so extreme that Barbara, whose gentle nature had become more refined and ennobled under the influence of Christianity, be- sought him to spare the Christians. When, however, he discovered that she too had become one of that hated sect, he ordered her to be confined in a tower, and for a time had recourse to various arts in the hope of per- suading her to abjure her religion. As he was unable in this way to accomplish his purpose, he inflicted upon her the most cruel torments, which she bore with wond- erful fortitude for a girl of but seventeen years of age. At last, unable by either arts or torments to influence her, he became so enraged at his failure that he slew her with his own hand. After her death, Barbara was re- vered as a saint by the Christians, and among some of the nations was venerated as the patroness of artillery.
Although Viscaino had carefully examined the coast of California, and had furnished to Spain not only maps but also reports of its resources and fertility ; yet so illimitable seemed the other territory that Spain had acquired in North and South America, that over a century and a half passed, before California became again an object of interest to the outside world.
Two causes finally led to a renewed interest in Cali- fornia. The Russians, who had acquired possessions in Alaska, began about the year 1750 to explore the Coast of California from the north, so that Spain became ap- prehensive that she might lose this part of her territory; and another and equally effective cause was the desire of the Franciscan order which in connection with that of the Jesuits had been most successful in building a
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EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
chain of Missions through northern Mexico and Baja California, to establish Missions along the coast of Alta California also.
Accordingly, in 1768, orders were issued by King Charles III, of Spain, to the Viceroy in Mexico, that San Diego and Monterey should be occupied and gar- risoned; and two expeditions, one by land and one by sea, were at once determined upon. When Father Junipero Serra, who had charge of the Missions in Baja California, was informed of the intended expeditions, he at once signified his intention to accompany them in person; and the Missions previously established were called upon to furnish the necessary priests and church paraphernalia, as well as the horses and cattle, required for the new Missions.
In the following year, the expeditions set forth for San Diego. The one by land was exposed to many hardships; the other by sea was also not without its misfortunes, as one of the vessels lost its bearings, and sailing too far northward landed by mistake on one of the islands which form Santa Barbara Channel. On the beach of this island the padres lost a small iron cross, which was found by the natives, who returned it, as the vessel was about to sail, and in commemoration of this circumstance, the island was called Santa Cruz.
After the founding of San Diego Mission, Governor Portola, Father Serra, and Sergeant Ortega, who sub- sequently became comandante of the Santa Barbara pueblo, marched northward along the coast to Monte- rey, passing, en route, the present site of Santa Barbara, which they named San Joaquin de la Laguna.
Monterey, being founded, other Missions were speed- ily established along the coast in the southern and cen- tral parts of the state; but the country bordering on Santa Barbara channel was the last to receive the at- tention of Spain. In 1775, however, Felipe de Neve, who had hitherto been only nominal governor; received
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THE EARLY EXPLORERS
his commission from the king of Spain as governor of California, with instructions to make Monterey the seat of his government. As none of the Missions lying be- tween San Diego and Monterey were protected by pre- sidios, Neve realized the importance of establishing a presidio and Mission on the Santa Barbara Channel; and with the sanction of the king of Spain and the as- sistance of Junipero Serra, preparations were made to accomplish this object. Although delayed in carrying out his plans, in the spring of 1782, the Mission of San Buenaventura was founded; and it was then decided to at once found another Mission on the Channel ten leagues further to the north, and to build a presidio at such place as should be determined upon, for the pro- tection of the channel Missions.
THE PRESIDIO
ABOUT the middle of April, 1782, Captain Jose Fran- cisco Ortega, in command of fifty men and accompanied by Governor Neve and Father Junipero Serra, left the newly founded Mission of San Buenaventura and marched along the coast between the ocean and the high cliffs which flank the ocean side. There were no roads in those days, but Indian trails extended along the beach. Indian villages were met with here and there; and when the pioneers crossed the Rincon Creek and entered the fertile valley of Carpinteria, these villages became more numerous. At last they reached the la- goon which formerly existed in the lower part of this city and covered the present estero, reaching up to the old De la Guerra gardens. Passing around the lagoon, they found on its western side a large Indian village, to which the name San Joaquin de la Laguna had prev- iously been given, and which was ruled over by Yanon- ali. Here it was decided the new presidio should be built.
The 21st day of April, 1782, was the natal day of Santa Barbara. It is not difficult to relate what oc- curred on that memorable morning, for what the re- cords fail to mention is supplied by a knowledge of what occurred at the founding of other presidios. The soldiers, with faces bronzed by exposure and clad in leathern waistcoats and leggins, were assembled near the intersection of Canon Perdido and Santa Barbara streets, where now only a few of the old buildings, crumbling to dust and forgotten, remain to mark the site of the presidio. From the many rancherias throughout the valleys the Indians had come, impelled by curiosity and awe; and it must have been with in-
31
THE PRESIDIO
tense interest that they watched the newcomers and wondered at their purpose.
Father Junipero, clad in alb and stole, stood in a hastily constructed chapel of brush before a roughly hewn table used as an altar. The soldiers, under the command of, Governor Neve and Captain Ortega then formed in a square, and having laid aside their shields and lances, knelt with bared heads while the reverend Father with uplifted hands invoked the blessings of heaven upon the congregation and their undertaking. After the dedication of the spot, the cross was raised, mass was celebrated, and an impressive sermon was preached. With these simple ceremonies was founded the City of Santa Barbara; and a record of the events, in the handwriting of Junipero Serra and signed by himself, is preserved among the old archives of the parochial church.
It was the expectation of Junipero Serra, who was entirely absorbed in the advancement of the Church, that as soon as temporary dwellings were provided for the accommodation of the soldiers, work would be com- menced on the founding of the Mission; but Neve felt that their position among unknown tribes would be in- secure until the fortifications and buildings of the pre- sidio had been at least partly completed ; and, therefore, declined to take any immediate steps towards the found- ing of the Mission. The venerable Serra was greatly disappointed at the decision, and shortly afterwards left Santa Barbara for the Mission of San Carlos, which he had founded at Monterey. He was nearly seventy years of age, yet he traveled all the distance on foot, as was his custom. It was his last long journey, and there on the 28th of August, 1784, he died.
The name of Junipero Serra deserves more than a passing notice, as it is inseparably connected with the founding of the Missions of California, the influence of which, in enlightening the crude minds of the natives,
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EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
has perhaps been too little appreciated. Serra was born on November 24th, 1713, at Petra, in the island of Ma- jorca, and was baptized as Miguel Jose, but he assumed the name of Junipero when he became a monk of the order of Franciscans. At the time that the Jesuits were expelled from Mexico, and the Missions which they had built in Baja California were turned over to the Franciscans, Serra, who was then living in Mexico, was made the presidente of those Missions. When he began the task of founding the Missions of Alta California, he was about fifty-five years of age, tall, and erect in stature; and although his constitution had been en- feebled by constant vigils and fasting, yet he possessed both the indomitable perserverance and energy essen- tial to the accomplishment of such an undertaking. In his efforts, he was actuated by none but the purest and most disinterested of motives, regarding himself as a chosen instrument for the conversion of the Indians. His self-imposed penances and acts of contrition were worthy of a monk of the Middle Ages; and the high es- teem and affection with which he was regarded is best attested by the manner in which the news of his death was received. When he ceased to breathe, and the toll- ing bells of San Carlos Mission conveyed the sad news, the whole population mourned. A weeping crowd of soldiers and neophites assembled at his bier, and form- ing a long procession, carried he remains and placed them before the altar, where they remained in state until borne to their final resting place.
After the religious ceremonies of dedicating the pre- sidio had been performed, temporary lodgings of brush and mud were prepared for the soldiers; and these were surrounded by a palisade, constructed of branches of oak and sycamore trees, making an enclosure of about sixty square yards. The foundation of the permanent presidio was then begun on a slight eminence, about fifty feet above the level of the sea, and flanked on the
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THE PRESIDIO
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EARLY DAYS OF SANTA BARBARA
left by the lagoon, which approached near to one of the walls. The exact location is easily determined by re- ference to the Sloyd school which occupies what was the easterly corner.
The plan of the presidio was simple; yet, when car- ried out, showed how admirably it was adapted to the purposes for which it was designed. The buildings were constructed about the sides of an open piece of ground approximately three hundred and twenty feet square, the front of the buildings forming unbroken lines facing the square, and the rear of the buildings forming a wall. For additional protection, an outer wall was planned to surround the buildings and leave an open space about eighty feet in depth between it and the buildings. Thus, if the enemy had been able to sur- mount the outer wall, they would still have been con- fronted with the almost solid wall formed by the rear of the houses, and exposed to the fire of the soldiers from the openings, used as windows.
It must not be assumed that the presidio was laid out with the scientific exactness, or that the proportions of the several buildings conformed to any arbitrary stand- ard, as the drawings of some historians would incline us to believe. The little force which founded and built the presidio was unaccompanied by either engineer or architect, so that the walls lacked the mathematical exactness of right-angled parallelograms; and the buildings were of slightly different lengths and heights. But the difficuties under which the builders worked should atone for any such irregularities which added to the interesting appearance of the presidio, rather than detracted from it.
The permanent buildings were substantially built of adobe and mortar, resting on solid stone foundations. The first to be erected occupied the northeast and south- west sides of the quadrangle, and were used as dwell- ing houses for the soldiers. The main entrance, which
35
1721831
THE PRESIDIO
was on the side towards the ocean, was about twenty feet in width and was always carefully guarded. To the right of this entrance, were the storehouses; and on the left the guardhouse and also the house of the ser- geant. Directly facing the entrance, and on the north- west side of the square, was the church, the high roof of which, surmounted by a wooden cross, made it the most noticeable structure of the presidio. The rest of this side was occupied by the dwellings of the officers, of which that of the comandante occupied the posi- tion farthest to the right and at the northerly corner of the square.
The outer wall which surrounded the buildings was built of adobe, resting on a foundation of stone, and had a thickness of seven feet and a height of twelve feet. In addition to the main entrance, there was a small opening in the southwest side of the wall, which was frequently used, but which could be easily closed, in case of necessity. At the easterly corner of the presidio was erected a bastian, in which was stationed a small iron cannon. Two other iron pieces and one brass six- pounder, which were placed in the square facing the entrance, completed the artillery.
As the Mexicans were most expert riders, and as a very large country was under the protection of but a handful of soldiers, it was but natural that they should be prepared to be converted at any moment into a com- pany of cavalry. Accordingly, the spaces on both sides of the main entrance and between the buildings and outer wall were used as corrals, where the horses could be stabled.
The garrison was supplied by springs of water, near at hand; but as a precaution against a siege, a well was sunk in one corner of the square. With a supply of water and with storehouses filled with grain, with can- non for protection against attack, and horses ready for sallies, this small force of light-armed soldiers was
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