USA > Colorado > Sketches of Colorado: being an analytical summary and biographical history of the State of Colorado as portrayed in the lives of the pioneers, the founders, the builders, the statesmen, and the prominent and progressive citizens Vol. 1 > Part 4
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In the Spring of 1853, Captain John W. Gunnison, under the direction of the Secre- tary of War, conducted an expedition through this section, exploring a desirable route for a projected railroad to the Pacific coast. Fol- lowing the Kansas river and Smoky Hill route, he arrived at Bent's Fort, which they found in ruins. Continuing west, they crossed
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what is now known as La Veta Pass. Leav- ing Fort Massachsuetts August 23, the San Luis Valley was traversed to Cochetopa Pass, thence through the mountains to that region, where the names of Gunnison county and the Gunnison river, now bear his own. The Black canon being impassible, they took a course towards what are now Montrose and Delta. Blue river was the name applied to the Gunnison. They followed the Grand for some distance, and on the Sevier river in Utah, the brave explorer met his death. When eating breakfast, just before sunrise, they were attacked by the Pah-Utes. Fifteen arrows were shot into the body of Captain Gunnison, and, that they might be sure of his death, the Indians cut out his heart.
One of the interesting expeditions through Colorado, was connected with the Mormon troubles in 1857, when Gen. Albert Sidney Johnston was sent against them with a large body of troops. Their provisions running short, Captain Marcy was dispatched to Taos, New Mexico, with Jim Baker as guide, for supplies. It was a perilous and hazard- ous trip, in which many hardships were en- dured, but they were successful. At the time of his visit to Denver, during a cele- bration of the Festival of Mountain and Plain, Jim Baker, the old scout, pointed out the probable site of their camp, when Marcy's relief party passed this way.
Although other explorers, surveyors and expeditions, about this time, and later, came to Colorado, the period of frontier exploration and that of the trapper and the trader, had reached its zenith and started on its decline. For more than 300 years the region now em- braced in Colorado, was historically con- nected with the explorations of the Spanish, French and American. No prominent set- tlements had been established, but the build- ing of the frontier posts was leading the way to more permanent advancement. It was an age of historic names. There were army officers who later became distinguished in the Civil War; scientists prominent in special lines of research accompanied exploring expe- ditions. In addition to those mentioned in this sketch, could well be added Oliver P. Wiggins, the aged scout, and companion of Kit Carson, who still resides in Denver. Recently there has been erected the handsome monument in Denver, dedicated to the Colo- rado pioneers, and the noble figure that crowns it, is that of Kit Carson. There was Maj. Fitzpatrick, who was the agent of the Indians for the upper Arkansas, at the time of his death, about 1855. He was succeeded by Robert Miller, who was accompanied west by a boy of eighteen-John W. Prowers-who later (1861) established the .first permanent
herd of cattle down the Arkansas, their range including the region between Caddo and the mouth of the Purgatoire. Miller was suc- ceeded by Col. A. G. Boone, Indian agent and commissioner, through whom was made the treaty with the Indians, whereby the latter surrendered a large part of the plains to the government. There were Col. Pfeiffer, R. B. Willis, Rufus B. Sage, Tom Tobin, Tom Boggs, Philander Simmons, Jim Beck- wourth, Pattie, Nugent, Sir George Gore, for whom the Gore range and Gore canon were named, Chabonard, the Gerrys, John Paisal, Peter A. Sarpy, Autobeas brothers, Robideau, Dick Wooten, Tim Goodale, Maurice, Col. John M. Francisco, and the list could well be extended. Col. Pfeiffer, companion of Kit Carson, was especially known in southern and southwestern Colorado. Jim Beckwourth, part negro, was with Louis Vasquez, at the latter's fort, at the mouth of Vasquez Fork, now Clear Creek, in the early trapping days. Col. A. G. Boone, a grandson of Daniel Boone, and secretary to Gen. William Ashley, came west about 1824, and was associated with the Bents, St. Vrain, Vasquez and Kit Carson. J. O. Pattie, the trapper and trader, in 1824, lived a life of thrilling adventures some of which are described as having occured in Colorado. J. A. Sarpy, of French descent, was from St. Louis, and erected the old trading post in Colorado that bore his name. O. P. Wiggins first came to this region about 1834, and early saw service with the American Fur Company, and now is one of the few sur- vivors of the old time trappers. Col. John M. Francisco came west in 1839, was at Fort Massachusetts 1851, and was one of the founders of La Veta, Colo. Godfrey and Elbrige Gerrey, who were identified with the fur trade in Colorado and the Rocky Mountain region, are said to have been descendants of Gerry who signed the Declaration of Inde- pendence. The Autobeas brothers were es- tablished on the Huerfano. R. L. (Dick) Wooten, prominent, especially in the southern part of the state, was also, for a short time associated with the early settlement of Den- ver. Ruxton Creek at Manitou, bears the name of another well known explorer. The story is told that Maurice, a French trader, built in 1830, a fort on Adobe creek, in the Arkansas valley, and there collected a small Mexican settlement, which in 1838, assisted by the Utes, defeated the Sioux and Arapa- hoes, after a bloody fight. The Vigil, St. Vrain, Maxwell, and other Spanish land grants bring in the additional names of such men as Lucien Maxwell who was with Fremont, Beaubien, and others. John Smith, another early trapper, was residing on the site of what is now Denver, when the gold hunters came.
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Thomas E. Breckenridge, later of San Miguel, Colorado, came near perishing with Fremont, in the San Juan on his fourth expedition.
Francis Parkman visited the St. Vrain re- gion in the early days. On June 23, 1911, Centennial Chapter, D. A. R., Colorado, un- veiled a granite shaft on the site of Fort St. Vrain, on which there was the following in- scription: "Fort St. Vrain, built about 1837 by Col. Ceran St. Vrain. General Fremont reorganized his historic exploring expedition here, July 23, 1843. This fort was also vis- ited by Francis Parkman and Kit Carson."
George S. Simpson, coming west from St. Louis about 1835-6, was identified with the early history of Colorado and New Mexico as a trader and merchant. He was with Cap- tain Marcy and Jim Baker in the relief expe- dition for Gen. Johnston's army in the lat- ter's campaign against the Mormons in 1857. When Marcy, in that journey, camped where Denver now stands, George S. Simpson panned out gold in Cherry Creek. He married in Taos, N. M., Nov. 30, 1842, Miss Juana Suaso of Spanish descent. While residing at what is now Canon City, Colorado, in 1844, his daughter, Isabel, (later Mrs. Jacob Beard of Trinidad, Colo.,) was born near the mouth of the Royal Gorge. It is claimed that she is the first child of American and Spanish blood, born within the boundaries of Colorado. At his request, Simpson was buried in a tomb cut in the solid rock, near Trinidad, known as "Simpson's rest." Some act of vandalism at this tomb, caused the Boy Scouts of Trini- dad to bring before the General Assembly of Colorado, in 1911, the question of protecting monuments in this state.
The hunters, trappers and traders, must now give way to the era soon to come that of the gold hunters and the wild rush of thous- ands to the Mountains. George S. Simpson,
of that older type the pre-mining era, made known in a poem, his request to be buried in "Simpson's Rest." As it tells of the heart and sentiment of a brave and heroic class of the early Americans in the west, it is herewith published.
Lay me at rest on yon towering height Where the silent cloud shadows glide-
Where solitude holds its slumberous reign Far away from the human tide.
I fain would sleep near the old pine tree That looks down on the valley below,
Like a soldier guarding a comrade's grave, Or a sentinel watching the foe.
'Twas a refuge once, in the bygone time, When a pitiful fate was near,
When my days were young and full of love For a life I held too dear.
Through all the long years that have passed away
Since that night of storm and dread
I've prayed that the boughs that sheltered me then
Might wave o'er my dust when dead.
Delve deep my grave in the stern gray rock; In its rigid embrace let me rest,
With naught but my name on the stone at my head
And the symbol of faith on my breast.
One mourner may remember where sleeps In his rock ribbed tomb, the lone dead,
May breathe for the loved one to heaven a prayer,
A tear to his memory shed.
(To my administrators, executors and assigns.) GEORGE S. SIMPSON.
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CHAPTER V.
Discovery of Gold-Wild Rush to the Pike's Peak Region:
N 1858, the discovery of gold on Cherry Creek, at one time the name of Denver itself, opened a new era for what is now Colorado. A decade previous, gold had also been found in Califor- nia, and during that period of ten years, tens of thousands had crossed and recrossed the plains and mountains of the west. Long since the Santa Fe and Oregon trails had been established. Women had traveled overland to the Oregon country in 1836. The Mormons had already settled at Salt Lake. Part of the American army had traversed the southwest, and some through Colorado, in the Mexican War. Gen. Albert Sidney Johnston, who later lost his life in the Confederate Army, had led an armed force against the Mormons in 1857. It was now common for men, women and children to cross overland. California trails were es- tablished. For these reasons, and others, the days of exploration, in the sense of those of the Spanish, French and early American, had ended when considered in the broader and higher sense. The era of the explorer in the plains and Rocky Mountain region, really closed with the rush to the California gold fields, or, at least, should not extend beyond 1850. There have been explorations since, and others will come in the future, but not in that grander list which includes Coronado, Moscoso, Espejo, Onate, Pike, Long, and Fremont's earlier expeditions. Neither Fre- mont's fifth expedition, nor that of Gunnison, should be considered as such. They came too late. That was simply frontier work. After 1850, there were explorations, but more in the line of investigation and development.
That was the true meaning of the Pike's Peak mining excitement. It was development. There was still a frontier, and just as brave and heroic work to be accomplished. It simply differed in kind and method. Gold in pay- ing quantities was found on Cherry Creek, 317 years after Coronado is said to have crossed the threshold of Colorado. From 100 to 250 years prior to Cherry Creek, the Spanish had been engaged in mining near Fort Garland, and in the San Juan, in the Gunnison country and western Colorado.
That is the old and first mining region in this state. But it did not bring results. There was no permanent development. The slaughter of the bison or buffalo, and the killing of the fur bearing animals during the trapping period, while affording some trade, was not development. Nothing was perma- nent. It was the California and Colorado prospector and miner, who gave the west its first steady prop. He not only timbered shafts and tunnels, but built homes and com- monwealths. Thus was led the van for other states in the west, in the meantime, agri- culture and other industries taking hold. Every large stream, mountain range, and extensive valley and plateau, had long since been known in Colorado. The explorer had early done his work but the west was waiting -there was something lacking-something was needed. That something came with the American miner. Long's expedition had re- sulted in placing the "Great American Desert" on the map, and it was sometime be- fore the farmer learned through the Greeley Colony, and similar work at Fort Collins and elsewhere that he had anything to do in this region, but he later established himself in a most abiding and successful manner, and he too came to stay. If the bison could live on the plains, so could cattle, and later there followed the era of the great cattle kings.
No one knows who first found gold within the present confines of Colorado. James Pursley or Purcell had obtained it on the Platte before Pike came. The Spanish and French discovered it. Early American explorers, army officers and trappers gave accounts of it. During the California rush overland, many an immigrant picked up specimens, and made successful tests for it in the sands of mountain streams. The "first" to find gold in Colorado has not been "discovered," but this much is known, that it was the Pike's Peak excitement that brought results. Development followed, and per- manent settlement, growth, progress, and civilization came to the Rocky Mountains. The right people had come to Colorado at the right time.
There seems to have been a combination of circumstances that led to the Pike's Peak excitement, and the mining of gold along
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Cherry Creek in 1858, which resulted in the founding of Denver, and the upbuilding of Colorado. This brings to notice and con- sideration, what is commonly known as the "Cherokee" story. A party of Cherokee Indians, who had had some experience min- ing for gold in Georgia, followed the stam- pede to California. En route they panned gold from Cherry Creek, also Ralston Creek, and small streams tributary to the South Platte in this locality, in 1850. Some of them urged a more thorough investigation, but the majority had the California fever, and their journey to the Pacific coast was re- sumed. There is another story to the effect that some Cherokees, possibly another party, discovered gold on Cherry and Ralston Creeks in 1852, and returning, exhibited specimens of their find, in Kansas and other sections. It is well to remember that the Cherokees at this time were more or less civilized, and their expeditions were not conducted in the same manner as the nomadic and more warlike Indians of the plains. These finds led to what seems, later, to have been several re- ported discoveries by Cherokees, but possibly they may be resolved into two separate parties or expeditions, from which many rumors may have emanated. John Smith, the trapper who was living on the site of Denver when the founders of the latter city came, had been engaged in 1857 in placer mining with some Mexicans in this vicinity, at what were known as the "Spanish" and "Mexican Diggings." The Cherokees returned from California, disappointed on their venture in the far west. During the winter of 1857-8, in the Missouri and Kansas river regions, and even farther east and south, there was considerable pub- licity as to "gold finds" in the Pike's Peak country. There may have been in this, a combination of both old and new reports. The Cherokees who had been removed from Georgia to the Indian Territory, a party of whom had visited this region in 1850, when passing through to California, again began agitating the question of exploring the Pike's Peak region. Some of the Cherokees who had washed out gold here in 1852, may also have assisted in spreading these reports. In the spring of 1858, John Cantrill with a party of traders from Salt Lake, returning to West- port, Missouri, exhibited specimens they had picked up on Ralston Creek and the streams in this vicinity. Some of the party of Cap- tain Marcy's command which camped on the Denver site in the spring of 1858, also found gold. Early in 1858, Little Beaver and Fall Leaf, two Delawares, when in Lawrence, Kansas, also exhibited gold nuggets, claimed to have been obtained by them in the Pike's Peak country. Thus from several and sepa-
rate sources, reports spread through the country to the east and south that there was an abundance of gold in this section, and Pike's Peak, being the most prominent and natural physical point, all these finds had their bearings in connection with that his- torical mountain, and hence the term "Pike's Peak Region" or "Country", became a general one for this entire section, although the discoveries mentioned, were made to the north of it, and in the vicinity of Denver.
As the Cherokees had formerly resided in Georgia, the reports that eminated from them, and possibly others, spread to that state, and came to the knowledge of W. Green Russell, and others, later associated with him in his western enterprise. Green Russell as he is commonly known had already taken up a land claim in Kansas, but was now in Georgia. Russell was anxious to engage in the venture, which finally resulted in an organized ex- pedition of whites and Cherokees, known as the Russell-Hicks party, Russell representing the whites and George Hicks, a Cherokee lawyer of prominence, being the leader for the Indians. Russell was not the original discoverer of gold on Cherry Creek, nor in the vicinity of Denver. Others had found the precious metal here, and the country was filled with the reports relating to these dis- coveries. Russell is entitled to historical prominence as a promoter and organizer, and his work gave a permanence to what had hitherto been reports and rumors. Follow- ing the Arkansas through Bent's old fort, and then skirting the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains, passing Pike's Peak, and crossing the divide, along the old route of the Cherokees in 1850, they reached Cherry Creek, and with varying results engaged in placer mining along this stream, the South Platte, Ralston Creek, Dry Creek, and other small affluents. The Cherokees did not long remain, not encouraged by the outlook, and some of the whites of the original party, also returned east, but Russell and about a dozen others continued in this region, making fur- ther investigations. He also made a tour of several weeks through the mountains, re- turning again to this section.
The Russell-Hicks Company was only a few days in advance of what is known as the Lawrence party, from Kansas. The gold that had been exhibited by the two Dela- wares in Lawrence, had aroused an interest in the Pike's Peak country. John Easter, later well known in the Cripple Creek min- ing district, organized an expedition, and in June, 1858, was close on the heels of the Rus- sell-Hicks party of whites and Cherokees. After leaving Bent's Fort, and following the Arkansas to the mouth of the Fountaine-
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qui-Bouille, and thence northward, they en- camped at Pike's Peak early in July, 1858. Several of them ascended the Peak, and among the number, was Mrs. James H. Holmes, the first woman to accomplish the feat. These Lawrence people were colonizers as well as gold seekers, and started the town of El Paso, now Colorado City, but disappointed in the arrival of settlers, the old site of El Paso was vacated. This party explored southward and southwest to the vicinity of the Sangre de Cristo, and later joined the Russell camp on Cherry Creek. Having failed in their El Paso town scheme, and realizing that this region must have somewhere a commercial center, they founded the town of Montana, out near what was later the cotton mills, and thus Denver had its start. Here were erected the first buildings in the city, for the Russell party had been following more of camp life. Montana was later abandoned, and the houses within a few months were re- moved to more favorable sites, established in what is still the boundaries of Denver. Auraria, now west Denver was started on the west side of Cherry Creek, and St. Charles on the east side, now known as east Denver. The following is the record of the founding of St. Charles:
"Upon the waters of the South Platte river, at the mouth of Cherry Creek, Arapahoe County, Kansas Territory, September 24, 1858. This article of agreement, witnesseth that T. C. Dickson, William McGaa, J. A. Churchill, William Smith, William Hartley, Adnah French, Frank M. Cobb, J. S. Smith, and Charles Nichols have entered into the following agreement, which they bind them- selves, their heirs and administrators, execu- tors, assignees, etc., forever to well and truly carry out the same."
In this agreement it was provided that they lay out 640 acres, and that each member have 100 lots in the new town site. It is now interesting to read the following provision that was incorporated in this old town site agreement, that; "if the country ever amount- ed to anything," John Smith and William MeGaa were to "separately claim the frac- tional or westside section of the creek, and use their influence to see that it eventually becomes part of the property of the Com- pany." Soon afterward, Russell and his Georgians returning from their trip of ex- ploration, and failing to enter into an arrange- ment with the St. Charles Company, founded one of their own on the west side. It was named Auraria, for a village in Georgia from whence the founders had come. Henry Al- len, who had arrived with an Iowa party, October 29, 1858, surveyed the townsite, and he erection of cabins was begun. The most
of the first town, called Montana, people and houses, were moved to Auraria, which, with the preference given it by new arrivals, flourished over St. Charles, its less fortunate rival. Another party of Kansans arrived in November, and among them were Gen. Wil- liam Larimer and Richard E. Whitsett, who revived the now languishing town of St. Charles. The Larimer party on Nov. 17, 1858, changed the name to Denver, in honor of Gen. James W. Denver, then Governor of Kansas, as this section was then included in Arapahoe county, that territory. At a meet- ing held Nov. 22, a constitution was adopted for the Denver Town Company, with the following officers: E. P. Stout, president; William Larimer, Jr., Treasurer; and H. P. A. Smith, Secretary. The Board of Directors were : E. P. Stout, William Larimer, Jr., R. E. Whitsett, C. A. Lawrence, William Mc- Gaa, Hickory Rogers, William Clancy, and P. T. Bassett. There were forty-one share- holders, each of whom, within ninety days, agreed to erect a building on one or more of his lots. Curtis & Lowry were awarded the contract to survey and plat the town site of the original Denver. Auraria afterward be- came a part of the town, and the east and west sides were incorporated into one city. Thus it will be seen that the old Denver came from three original town sites: first, Montana, located about five miles up the South Platte; second, St. Charles, on the east side of Cherry Creek; third, Auraria, on the west side. The first trading establishment in Denver was conducted by John Smith for Elbridge Gerry; the second by Blake & Williams; and the third, by Richard Wooten and his brother, December 25, 1858.
A quiet winter was followed by activity in the spring of 1859. Doyle & Solomon then arrived with several loads of goods and opened in Auraria, a large warehouse, being a pre- tentious rival to the east side (Denver) where St. Charles had first been established. Promi- nent among the early arrivals were D. C. Oakes, who brought with him, the first saw mill to this region, and William N. Byers, the latter arriving with a printing press pur- chased in Omaha. On April 23, 1859, Mr. Byers printed the first issue of the Rocky Mountain News, the first paper in Denver and the Pike's Peak region. Jack Merrick the same day published the first and only issue of the Cherry Creek Pioneer, but a little later in the day. It was a race between the two papers as to which would "go to press" first. The entire town was interested, and gamblers were betting on the result. From stories handed down by pioneers, the Rocky Mountain News, started as a weekly, was published from one to three hours in advance
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of its rival, which was at once absorbed by the News, it having been purchased by Thomas Gibson who was associated with Mr. Byers. As spring advanced, arrivals from the east rapidly increased. Men and women were coming, who were later prominent in the commercial, political and social life of the west. Conditions were crude, but there began that evolution toward the high po- sition that is now occupied by Denver and Colorado. Means of communication is one of the essentials of any American settlement, but there was no postoffice. This difficulty was removed by Henry Allen, who established a private mail route to Fort Laramie, the nearest postoffice, about 200 miles distant. The messenger of this improvised "rural" route, who left about May 1, 1858, returned with a heavy mail of letters and papers. But in the meantime, the first coach of the Leaven- worth & Pike's Peak Express Company had brought to Denver its first mail.
The product realized from placer mining in Cherry Creek and vicinity was not suffi- cient to give permanency to that industry. The gold in the sands of these streams at the base of the foothills, must have a source. It came from the mountains, and here the search was continued. This led up to two im- portant discoveries which forever established Colorado as a great mining state. George A. Jackson, native of Howard county, Missouri, who had also engaged in mining in California, discovered gold placers near Idaho Springs, and John H. Gregory opened the Gregory lode in Gilpin county, which led to the min- ing and development of fissure veins. George A. Jackson came in the spring of 1858, and after a short delay in Auraria, proceeded to the Cache la Poudre, accompanied by an old trapper, Antoine Janniss, and prospected for gold, also engaging in business at a trading post called "Laporte." Later with Tom Golden and Jim Sanders, he established a winter camp on the site of what is now Golden. On January 7, 1859, he washed out gold on Chicago Creek, a short distance above its confluence with Vasquez Fork (Clear Creek), and then returned to his camp at Golden. In April, Jackson revisited the place of his discovery, accompanied by a number of Chicago Capitalists, whence the name Chi- cago Creek, and in a week's time, his work realized him the sum of $1,900. He sold his interest in these claims, and in 1860 was operating in California Gulch. For many years he was a prominent resident of this state.
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