USA > Connecticut > Middlesex County > A statistical account of the county of Middlesex, in Connecticut > Part 4
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Introductory and General Observations.
Boxing and horse-racing, which were once, not infrequent amusements in Middlesex, have entirely ceased. Gambling is rarely practised ; and the votaries of dancing are less numerous and less zealous, than they were twenty years ago.
In addition to the libraries of professional characters and of private gentlemen, we have now in Middlesex, 22 public libra- ries, containing in all, about 3,500 volumes. Most of, these are books of value. See note R.
In most of our parishes, are charitable associations ; many of which are formed by benevolent and pious females.
The only society which extends through the county, is a Bible Society, formed in November last, auxiliary to the American Bible Society. What this will accomplish, is unknown, but its prospects are flattering.
1
A
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF THE
TOWN OF MIDDLETOWN.
THIS Town is bounded by Haddam and Durham on the south, by Meriden and Berlin on the west, by Weathersfield on the north, and by Connecticut river on the east. It formerly extend- ed across the river, and included the town of Chatham. Its length north and south, is about nine miles, and its breadth from Weathersfield line to Middletown city, is four and five miles, thence it suddenly increases, by reason of a bend in the river, to ten miles. Its area cannot be accurately calculated, but will not vary greatly, from 43,520 acres.
It embraces four parishes, viz. Middletown, Upper-Houses, Middlefield and Westfield parishes, the three last of which, appear to have derived their names, from their relation to the first.
As early as March 1650, a committee was appointed to explore the lands in Mattabesett, the Indian name by which this town was called, and report what advantages they would afford for a plantation. The committee reported that subsistence might be procured in them for fifteen families ; a fact, which shows what imperfect ideas the first settlers of Connecticut had, of the pro- ductiveness and value of the soil. In the course of that year a settlement commenced upon them, near the Connecticut, to the north and south of Little river. A larger number of families than the committee contemplated was soon in the town, who were invested with town privileges in September of the succeeding year. In November 1653, the place was called Middletown. The number of taxable persons the year after, was thirty-one, and there were probably about as many families. From these, others were formed, or moved in from other places, and in 1670, the number of families was fifty-two.
33
Town of Middletown.
Though these had become inhabitants at different periods, it was agreed that all who were householders this year, should be considered as proprietors, and that after laying out a large com- mon and a hundred and fifty acres for a parsonage, the undivided lands should be laid out according to their lists. According to this agreement, all undivided lands, which then belonged to them, were laid out afterwards.
As a large proportion of the present inhabitants of Middle- town, are descendants of those who were householders, in 1670, it may not be unsuitable to give their names in this work ; noting with an asterisk the few names which have become extinct. These were as follows, viz. Nathaniel Bacon, William Cornwell, John Cornwell, Samuel Cornwell, William Cornwell, Jun., John Hall, Richard Hall, John Hall, Jun., Samuel Hall and Giles Ham- lin, from England; David Sage and Thomas Wetmore, from Wales ; Thomas Ranney, from Scotland ; Alexander Bow, George Hubbard, Joseph Hubbard, Daniel Hubbard, Thomas Hubbard, Anthony Martin, John Savage, Samuel Stocking, Samuel White, Thomas Willcox and John Willcox, from Hartford ; Thomas Al- len, Obadiah Allen, William Lucas, Andrew Warner, Robert War- ner and John Warner, supposed to have been from Windsor ; John Kirby, Daniel Harris and William Harris, said to have been from Boston ; Nathaniel Collins and Samuel Collins, from Cambridge ; Thomas Miller, John Ward and William Ward, from Rowley ; Sa- muel Stow, Thomas Stow and John Stow, from Concord; Isaac Johnson, from Roxbury ; William Briggs*, William Cheney, Jaf- fres Clements *; Honory Coll*, George Durant*, Samuel Eggles- ton, Edward Foster, Isaac Lane*, James Tappen*, and Edward Turner.
In this list, the name of Robert Webster, Esq. who was an early and principal settler does not appear. He probably de- ceased or moved away before 1670, and the same may have been true of some other settlers.
Most of the above named persons, settled within the limits of the first society of Middletown, and a large portion of them within the limits of the city. Those, by the name of Kirby, Martin, Ranney, Sage, Savage, Stocking, White and Willcox, and per- haps some others, settled in the Upper-Houses.
The inhabitants within the first society, gradually extended themselves down into the South-Farms, and afterwards into Mo- romos. They were early joined by the ancestors of the Browns, Gills, Phillipses, Rockwells, Southmayds, Starrs, and Sumners ; as they were in succeeding periods, by the ancestors of the McGills, Meigses, Treadways, &c.
The people in the Upper-Houses, were joined by the ances tors of the Shepherds, and of some other families.
34
Statistical Account of Middlesex County ;
The settlement, within the parish of Middlefield, began about 1700. The earliest settlers there, were Samuel Allen, Benja- min Miller and Samuel Wetmore, who removed from the first society. With these, persons soon united, by the name of Ba- con, Hubbard, Stow, Turner and Ward, from the same society ; by the name of Camp, Coe and Lyman, from Durham ; of Bird- sey, from Stratford; of Bartlett, from Guilford ; and also per- sons by the name of Chilson and Hale.
The first white inhabitant of Westfield, was Edward Higby, a native of Long-Island, who settled about 1720, at the foot of that bluff, which from him is called Higby Mountain. Hc de- ceased in November 1775, aged about 90. The other early settlers, were Benjamin Atkins, Benjamin Bacon, Nathan- iel Bacon, John Bacon, Joseph Bacon, Joseph Cornwell, Joseph Doolittle, Samuel Plumbe and Daniel Roberts, from the first society ; John Warner, Israel Willcox, John Will- cox and Jeremiah Willcox, from the Upper-Houses ; Joseph Clark, a native of West-Haven; Nathaniel Churchell from Weathersfield; Edward Boardman and Josiah Boardman, from Glastenbury ; David Dowd, Richard Dowd, Joseph Graves and Asahel Dudley, from Guilford.
In January 1689, the Legislature of Connecticut, granted to the towns of Middletown, Weathersfield, and Farmington, all the vacant lands between their bounds, and the bounds of Walling- ford, (which then included the towns of Cheshire and Meriden,) for the purpose of establishing a new plantation. This grant covered the tract generally, now constituting the town of Berlin, which was incorporated in May 1785. In the south-eastern sec- tion of this tract, some families from Middletown settled, by the name of Sage, Savage and Willcox, about the commencement of the last century. These, with others, belonged to the town of Middletown, until the incorporation just mentioned.
A portion of the lands in Middletown, were given by Sowleag, the great sachem of Mattabesett, to John Haynes, for sometime governor of Connecticut, probably before any settlement was made in the town. On the 24th of January 1662, Sepunnemo and other chiefs, knowing the gift of Sowheag to Mr. Haynes, sold to Samuel Wyllys and others, doubtless as agents of the co- lony or town, all the remaining lands in Middletown, including Chatham, extending six miles east of the river, and as far west as the Court had granted the bounds of the town; excepting 300 acres, which they reserved for the heirs of Sowheag and Matta- besett Indians, to be laid out on the east of the river ; and a tract on the west side, previously laid out for Sawsean, to remain for his heirs for ever.
The reservation on the east side of the river. will be noticed
35
Town of Middletown.
in the account of Chatham. The other reservation, appears to have been in the neighbourhood, now called Newfield, where the Indians held lands as late as 1713.
On the line between this neighbourhood and Staddle-Hill, they had a grave yard. Their bones also have been found, in the south-eastern part of the Upper-Houses, on the bank of the Connecticut.
Sowheag, just mentioned, was a powerful sachem. He had his castle on the high ground, in the west part of what is now the city of Middletown, still called from this circumstance, Indian Hill; where he was able, by means of his whistle, to call around him many warriors, whose wigwams were thick on both sides of the Connecticut eastward. His dominion extended not only over these, and other Indians in Middletown and Chatham, but over the Piquag, or Weathersfield Indians, whose sagamore, Se- quin, was subject to him : and as a part of the original township of New-Haven, was purchased of Montowese, Sowheag's son, it is probable, that his dominion embraced some of the Indians in that town.
Although Sowheag had given lands to Governor Haynes, as has been related, and had thereby conferred an obligation upon the English ; he afterwards showed himself to be a base and treacherous man. In April 1637, some of his Indians at Weath- ersfield, conducted and aided the Pequots, as appeared af- terwards, in the incursion which they made into that town, where they killed six men as they were going into the field, and three women, and took two maids captive. Sowheag entertained the murderers, and treated the people of Weathersfield in a haughty and insulting manner. It seems that the people of Weathersfield, had previously offered him some provocation. On hearing of their differences therefore, the General Court were disposed to forgive him, and appointed a committee to compromise all dif- ferences with him. But he wholly refused to give up the mur- derers, and continued his outrages against the English. The Court therefore, in August 1639, determined to send one hundred men to Mattabesett, and take the delinquents by force. They notified their friends at New-Haven of their determination, both that they might receive their approbation, in an enterprize of such general concern, and that they might make the necessary arrangements, for defending their own plantations. Governor Eaton and his Council viewed it important, that the murderers should be brought to punishment; but in existing circumstances, deemed the measure proposed for doing it inexpedient, and dis- suaded the Connecticut Colony from pursuing it.
In addition to the Strait-Hills, which cross the south-eastern scetion of this town, and Wallingford Mountains on its western
5
36
Statistical Account of Middlesex County ;
border, described in the introductory observations, there are several hills of some note. Indian Hill has been already men- tioned. South from this, high elevated grounds extend to the borders of Durham, which, taken collectively, are called Long- Hill. In the Upper-Houses, is Prospect-Hill, thus named, from the fine view which it affords of the surrounding country ; par- ticularly of the windings of Connecticut river, of the city of Mid- dletown, and of the north-western portion of Chatham. In the back parts of the town, are Staddle-Hill, Three-mile-Hill, Pow- der-Hill, and some others.
These hills, in general, are capable of cultivation. The in- terval and level lands throughout the township, are good, and some of them excellent.
There are two streams in Middletown, deserving particular notice, viz. Little river, and Sumner's creek.
The former and larger of these streams, is sometimes called Ferry river, in the ancient records of the town, because a ferry was kept for a long period near its mouth, on the road from the city to the Upper-Houses.
The largest branch of this river, more appropriately called Little river, rises in Farmington Mountain, passes through Ber- lin, and enters Middletown at the northwest, where it receives a small mill-stream from Westfield parish.
The only other considerable branch rises in a spring, eight or ten rods in circumference, at the foot of Bluff-Head, the eastern-most point of Totoket or Branford Mountain, a little north of the source of a river, which runs southerly into the Sound. It takes a course nearly north, runs through Durham, the parish of Mid- dlefield, and the west part of the first society, where it assumes the name of West river, and forms a junction with Little river, about a mile from its mouth. This has a fall in Middlefield of 30 feet, and it furnishes a number of excellent mill-seats.
A much more interesting fall is on the small mill-stream in Westfield, just mentioned. This runs on high ground till it arrives to about the center of the society, where it falls down a rocky excavation which it has formed, 60 or 70 feet, in the course of a few rods. The scenery was formerly much more romantic, by reason of lofty pines and evergreens which stood beside the fall.
On this river, principally within the Upper-Houses, is a large meadow and swamp, overflowed in times of freshet.
Sumner's creek, like Little river, has two considerable branches, Miller's brook, and Pamcacha river, both of which are important mill-streams.
Miller's brook rises in Miller's pond, in the northeast corner of Durham, pursues a northerly course, till it strikes Pamea-
37
Town of Middletown.
cha river, where it turns eastward, runs a small distance, and empties into the Connecticut. On this brook Mr. Thomas Mil- ler erected a corn-mill for the use of the town in 1665, which is doubtless the reason of its being called Miller's brook.
Pameacha river has its sources, in hills near the borders of Durham, runs also northerly, till it strikes Warwick's brook, where it turns eastward, and passes on between high rocky banks, to the other branch.
Shad and small fish are taken in considerable quantities, at the mouth of Little river. The fishery in Sumner's creek was formerly so important, that an act was passed by the Legislature in 1726 for regulating it.
At the bottom of Prospect-Hill, west of Middlesex turnpike, is a chalybeate spring. This has been known, and occasionally visited, for many years. About 1810, a bathing-house was erect- cd near it, and it became a place of considerable resort for peo- ple in the vicinity, for one or two seasons ; but it is now gene- rally neglected, and the house is removed.
Iron has never been found in this town in large quantities. Some has been discovered about Higby Mountain.
A lead mine was opened about forty years ago, near But- ler's creek, as it enters Connecticut river, two miles southeast from the city. The vein runs north-easterly towards the river, and ' as it approaches it, sinks abruptly into the earth. It is inclosed in a granite rock, which renders it difficult to get the ore. It is mineralized with sulphur, and is partly steel-grained, and partly cubic lead ore, the former containing the greatest portion of sil- ver, but neither enough to pay the expense of separation : it also contains a portion of zinc. Large sums of money were ex- pended here by foreigners, before the American Revolution. When that commenced, it was in the hands of Col. James, a Bri- tish officer, who had raised one hundred half-barrels of the ore, and prepared it for exportation. This the government of Con- necticut seized, as they did also the mine, which they improved, till the great expenses of carrying on the business, induced them to abandon it. The vein was followed thirty or forty rods, and was in some places very rich, but generally poor.
Free-stone, or rather dark gray sand-stone, abounds in Middle- town. Many of the loose stones on the surface are of this de- scription. It is found not only in sinking wells, but appears more or less in the bed and banks of the various streams. This is not sufficiently fine in all cases, for any work where much ornament is required, but is suitable abundantly for building stone, and might be used for this purpose with great advantage. The walls of the Sword Factory wholly, and of the Pistol Factory in part, are built of it, taken from the bed and banks of West river. In
38
Statistical Account of Middlesex County ;
other cases the stone is suitable for fire-places, underpinning, step and grave-stones, and has been used for these purposes for a long period. As early as 1726, the selectmen were directed to take care of the quarries on the west side of the river, as well as on th east side, or in Chatham.
The first opening was made on the bank of West river, a mile from the Connecticut, near the turnpike road leading to Meri- den. This has been improved at different times to a considera- ble extent. Within a few years, many of the stone have been used in the city, and some have been transported to other places.
Beside a stratum of carth, the stone here, in some cases, is covered with a shelly rock, composed principally of oxyd of iron, and clay, not having sufficient sand to harden and hold it together. It is from ten to twenty feet thick, imposed on a stra- tum of black slate, beneath which is a stratum of blue slate, fre- quently including veins of pit coal. Beneath these is gray sandstone, and then the slate recurs ; and thus these different strata appear, as far down as the earth has been explored. In some cases the slatestone is from ten to fifteen feet thick, so strongly impregnated with bitumen, that it will burn. Here the veins of coal are much the largest and most frequent.
Another quarry was opened west of the Turnpike road lead- ing to Durham and New-Haven, two miles from the city, about twenty years ago.
A third quarry was opened at Laurel-Hill in Middlefield, two and a half miles southwest of the city, at a more recent period.
Many years ago, stone was taken from a quarry in the back part of the Upper-Houses. This is of an indifferent quality.
None of these quarries are extensively improved just at the pre- sent time, and some of them are wholly neglected.
The appearances of coal already noticed, with some other facts, have induced several gentlemen to search for coal in this town. The earth has been explored by boring sixty or seven- ty feet. But though goal has been discovered, it has not been found in sufficient quantities to defray the expense of digging for it. But appearances are so favorable, and the object is so important, it is hoped the search will not be given up, without a Inore thorough examination.
Limestone exists near Higby Mountain, and has been used to a limited extent.
The inhabitants of the southern, western and northern parts of this town, are very generally farmers, and as the lands in those parts have long since been taken up for farms, the population has increased very little for many years. There were 80 dwell- ing houses in Middlefield in 1745, and but one more in 1815. The population of Westfield, for the same length of time, has
39
Town of Middletown.
been nearly stationary. The increase in the Upper-Houses, has been confined principally to the village in the south-eastern section of it, as the increase in the first society has been to the city. Young enterprising men, trained to husbandry, unable to get farms in their native town, have removed from time to time, to other parts of the country. But of these numerous and almost perpetual removals, generally, no particular information can be given.
In 1784, Hugh White Esq. moved from the Upper-Houses to Whitestown, in the State of New-York. In the course of a few years, some families from Middletown and other places settled around him. In 1788, the town of Germanflats was divided, and the western part, within which he and his associates lived, was called in honour of him, Whitestown. The new town, at its incorporation, extended over the whole western portion of New-York ; a tract, which did not then contain 200 English in- habitants, but which before Mr. White's death, in 1812, contained more than 280,000. The present town of Whitestown, including the large and flourishing village of Utica, and the fine villages of Whitesborough and New-Hartford, will transmit his name to dis- tant generations.
Two persons, inhabitants of Middletown, have been capitally punished, namely, Thomas Starr and Peter Lung.
On the 26th of July 1796, Starr stabbed Mr. Samuel Corn- well, a nephew, in seven places in the trunk of his body, with a penknife; of which wounds he languished a few days and expired. For this offence, he was tried and condemned at a spe- cial session of the Superior Court, held in Middletown, Decem- ber 1796, and executed at Haddam, on the 14th of June following.
Lung was convicted of murder, committed, by various wounds and bruises, on the person of his wife, of which she died, some- time in the course of the night of the 31st of July 1815. A spe- cial Court held in Middletown, on the last Tuesday of August in the same year, condemned him to be executed on the 23d of No- vember. But as the Legislature, at their intervening session, set aside the doings of that Court, he had a second trial at Haddam in December, where he was again condemned. His execution took place at Middletown, on the 20th of June 1816.
Shipbuilding has been carried on in the village of the Upper- Houses, in one yard, for a century, and in a second, for half that period. The inhabitants of that village, have been moderately concerned in navigation for many years. Several neat houses were erected there, about 1804, and the village and parish both, are very pleasant.
But the principal business in Middletown is done in the city. This was incorporated in May 1784.
40
Statistical Account of Middlesex County ;
Its situation is remarkably pleasant, and strikes the eye with peculiar pleasure, not only from Prospect-Hill, but from the high grounds in Chatham, and towards the Staits.
It is nearly surrounded by water, having Little river on the north, West river on the west, and Pameacha river and Sum- ner's creek, in part, on the south, a line from West river to War- wick's bridge, being the remaining southern boundary. The eastern boundary of the city is high water mark, on the cast side of the Connecticut.
Its medium length may be a mile and a half, and its breadth, exclusively of the river, is about the same.
From the Connecticut the ground gradually rises for half a mile westward. Within this space are nearly all the build- ings in the city, and most of them are on the eastern half of it, on Main-street, running parallel generally with the Connec- ticut, and on streets at right angles with this, running to the river.
The dwelling houses in the city, 299 in number, are very ge- nerally convenient, and some of them are elegant buildings. These, with the various stores and shops, are constructed in most cases of wood; a few, and those more recently erected, are of brick. They are one, two and three stories high ; but vastly the greatest proportion of them, are of the second description.
The public edifices are five churches, attended however by people from all parts of Middletown parish, two Banks, a Court- house, Gaol and Alms-house.
In the winter of 1669-70, a shipwright was allowed to build vessels in this place, and shipbuilding has probably been carried on most of the time since that period. Two yards were formerly occupied ; one only is improved at the present time.
There may have been a very little navigation from the pe- riod, in which shipbuilding commenced. In 1713 and 14, seve- ral wharves were allowed to be built on the Connecticut. Be- fore the revolutionary war, an extensive and profitable trade was opened with the West-Indies.
In 1811, the year preceding the late war, there belonged to Middletown, and mostly to the city, 7 ships, 21 brigs, and 4 schooners, employed in foreign trade, and 1 schooner and 6 sloops, employed in coasting, amounting to 6,000 tons. By the war the navigation was much reduced, and in the close of 1815, 3,537 tons of shipping only, belonged to the town.
The foreign trade of the city, is principally with the West- Indies, and the coasting trade is with the city of New-York, and the Southern States. The more important articles of exportation are live-stock, corn-meal and lumber, collected partly from this town, and partly from the country. Rum. molasses and sugar are the principal articles, imported.
41
Town of Middletown.
Sixty or seventy years ago, there were only four merchant stores in this place. At that time, there were but few mechanic shops, and no public offices and no important factories.
There are now in the city, 11 stores of dry goods ; 22 groce- ry stores ; 2 hardware stores ; 2 crockery stores; 1 fur store ; 2 apothecary stores ; 1 paper store ; 2 book stores ; 2 book binde- ries ; 2 goldsmith's shops ; 4 taylors' shops ; 3 milliners' shops ; 1 hat factory; 2 bakeries ; 3 butchers' stalls ; 2 tallow chan- dleries ; 2 tanneries ; 3 shoe stores ; 2 saddler's shops ; 4 lum- ber yards ; 3 cabinet shops ; 2 chaise-makers' shops ; 2 tinner's shops ; 4 blacksmith's shops ; 2 rope walks ; and 1 sail loft.
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