USA > Connecticut > New London County > Groton > Historic Groton : comprising historic and descriptive sketches pertaining to Groton Heights, Center Groton, Poquonnoc Bridge, Noank, Mystic, and Old Mystic, Conn. > Part 6
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The post office, after nearly seventy years of varying activity, was finally discontinued on the first day of November, 1902. Two in- tersecting rural free delivery routes serve to keep the inhabitants of the village in touch with the outside world. The telephone like- wise cheers its solitude, but the trolley has passed it by. The state is doing its best for it by making of the long defunct turnpike. whose traffic was diverted by railroad and steamboat more than fifty years ago, a finer highway than the original projectors ever dreamed of. Its neat and commodious chapel suggests that the spiritual interests in whose behalf it was founded over two hundred years ago, are in nowise neglected. It is not, like the "Sweet Auburn" of Goldsmith's melodious numbers, a "Deserted Village;" but one of similar memories, born upon the threshold of a vanishing era; which for obvious reasons has been unable to keep pace with an ever hurrying procession.
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HISTORIC GROTON
Poquonnoc Bridge
By MRS. CYRUS AVERY and REV. O. G. BUDDINGTON
T SHIE village of Poquonnock Bridge is very pleasantly situated in the southern part of the town of Gro- ton, about two miles east of the Groton and New London ferry, at the head of the river bearing its name. The river connects it with the waters of, Fisher's Island Sound, about two miles distant. This stream with its natural beauty, and with its facility for transportation, makes a most de- sirable location for the village. Added to this the Groton and Stonington Trolley Co's line running directly through the village, and the station of the New York, New Haven & Hart- ford railroad leave nothing more to be desired
SCHOOLHOUSE Oldest in Town
for transportation facilities: The population consists of about one hundred families, for the most part consisting of resident, English speaking people, there being but an exceeding- ly small per cent of foreign element, offering a most favorable contrast to the modern News England village.
As far as can be ascertained the first settlers in what is now the village of Poquonnock came from New London in the year about 1652-53. About this time Mr. James Morgan occupied a grant of land and built a house
on a site near the village and near a house built later which has successively passed through six generations of James Morgans. About the same date Nehemiah Smith came from New London, and built on what is now known as the Smith homestead, near Smith's lake. This house was destroyed by fire dur- ing the Revolutionary war, and a great grand- son at a later date built over the cellar of the former building, and this house is standing at the present time and is occupied by descend- ants of the family. Smith's Lake, and Smith's cemetery are familiar sites and date back to those days of long ago.
About the same date of 1652-53 James Avery was granted land situated west of the village and built what has been known as "The Hive of The Averys." The central portion of the house with later additions stood for above 250 years, being destroyed by fire July 30th, 1804. This interesting building was a land mark for generations, and its accidental destruction was greatly and generally regretted. The beauti- ful Avery Memorial Park and shaft now mark the site of the ancient building. These early settlers were men of sterling character, and occupied prominent places in shaping local and colonial affairs not only in their own locali- ties but in the colonies as well.
Farming, railroading, and sea food produc- tion, are among the leading industries. Many large and fertile farms are found in the out- lying districts, whose owners maintain them in high efficiency through modern and up to date methods. Probably, what is known as the Gardner farm lying along the east bank of the river extending from its head to the somid, is the largest in the county, if not in the state.
Railroading is a more recent industry, hay- ing been introduced with locating the exten- sive freight yards of the New York, New
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Haven and Hartford railroad about the station which has been changed from Poquonnock to Midway as it is about half way between New York and Boston. In addition to the freight yards, the erection of a round house, coal pocket, ice house, and hotel has formsned employment for hundreds of men many of whom make their homes in the village.
From time immemorial Poquonnock river and the adjacent waters of the sound have been
reaches back to its earliest settlement. Here Elder Park Avery established a "New Light Congregational Church" in the days of White- field and his zealous coadjutors. The church dechned as he grew old, but religions efforts were continued.
After a time a Sunday school was estab- lished and maintained which has continued to this day. The church which grew out of the Sunday school was constituted August 18th,
H
POQU'ONNOG BRIDGE AND CHURCH
noted for their abundant supply of sea food, both scale and crustacean. This has furnished occupation for many, and members of certain families have followed it through successive generations until the highest skill and success has been attained. Of more recent date the culture of oysters .has been introduced by pri- vate enterprise through the laying out and stocking of beds in the river.
The history of Pognonnock Bridge Baptist Church as such begins with the year 1856, but the history of the Christian work on this field
1856, with twenty-five members. Rev. S. B. Bailey was the first pastor, and continued with them about eighteen months. The next was Rev. George Mixter followed by Revs. Alfred Gates and John E. Wood who raised a com- Wany of volunteers and went with them to the war. Next comes Rev. Thomas Dowling fol- lowed by Revs. Curtis Keeney and William .A. Smith.
Through the earnest faithful work of mem- bers, with the help of outside friends, the money was raised for a new and larger church
-
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edifice, dedicated November 8th, 1871, with The church has a handsome Avery menio- rial window presented by Jeremiah Harris of Groton, whose mother was Mary Avery Har- Rev. Louis Sands as pastor. He was succeed- ed by Elders William A. Smith, Stephen Per- kins, E. C. Miller, George W. Pendleton, C. E. ris. The fiftieth anniversary of the organiza-
OLD AVERY HOMESTEAD
Tullar, N. T. Allen, and F. H. Cooper. Rev. tion of the church was appropriately celebrat- ed August 19th, 1956. O. G. Buddington the present pastor was a Groton boy, a graduate of the Mystic Valley The present number of members is 122. The
AVERY MEMORIAL PARK
Institute in 1877. He supplied the church from 1904 to 1907, when he accepted a call to the pastorate.
officers are as follows: Clerk, Daniel Morgan : deacons, Cyrus Avery, William T. Burrows. Charles C. Palmer ; treasurer, Cyrus Avery.
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A good graded school, well filled with pupils, with a building centrally located is one of the indispensable accessories to the intellectual
probate judge, selectmen, with a large hall for public meetings, and is thoroughly up to date in its construction, and appointments.
RESIDENCE OF THE LATE ELISHA SEABURY THOMAS
Called " fligh Boek Place" and situated at the head of the Eastern Point and lower l'ognonnoe road Mr. Thomas purchased this land in 1865 of Park William Avery, being the southern portion of the farm known as " Birch Plains," and named it from the ledge on the rise of ground at the north of the farm " On which High Rock like a grim giant stands Covered with moss and seamed by glacial scars,
As it hath stood through all the centuries"
The land has always been owned by a descendant of Captain James Avery, to whom it was granted in 1652
life of the village. The erection of a new school house at present is an agitated ques- tion.
A beautiful and commodious town hall has
A race track with all necessary accompani- ments for athletic sports and a rifle range es- tablished by the state, for the practice of the State militia, are among the many acquisi-
GROTON TOWN HALL.
recently been erected at a cost of above $25,- 000, through the generosity of Mr. Morton F. Plant, a resident of the town. This mag- rificent building contains offices for town clerk,
tions, pointing to a desirable and central loca- tion, and to an extensive outlying domain, by no means yet exhausted, but invitingly open to future enterprise and growth.
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Picturesque Noank By MARY E. BURROWS
OANK lies on the N. Y., N. H. & II. railroad, seven miles cast of New London, on the point reach- ing out to the waters of Long Is- land sound, where the Mystic river empties into them. The scenery is some of the most picturesque on the Atlantic coast. At the south lies the broad expanse of blue water of Long Island sound, broken at the southern horizon by Fisher's Island as a sky line for the immense picture. Between that and the main land are dropped here and there
Noank, or "Nauyang," has no hazy history, but clear cut and defined from the days of 1614, six years before the landing of the P'il- grims. This was the summer camping ground where the Pequots came from their interior winter quarters above Mystic and Fort Hill ( then Pequot Ilill). Their nets, made of wild hemp, set across the north cove, gathered in the plentiful supply of fish, or from their ca- noes they speared them, and caught the other game of the waters. The whole long summer they roved independent and happy, gorging
NOANK GENERAL VIEW
smaller islands of various shapes and forma- tions, some like round, green dumplings, some of solid rock, barren but grand, and some with rank vegetation with dwelling houses showing their bright colored roofs amongst the ver- dure. The widened mouth of the river forms a broad, safe harbor, and with the deep chan- nel makes Noank's shipping facilities of great value. This is the "Nanyang" of old Indian days, meaning according to Prof. Eno of Yale, "a point of land."
themselves with the good things of the salt waters provided by nature in such bountiful quantities. Then, when the autumn came, back again inland where their corn had been growing all this while, back to business again, Yike other summer sojourners of modern times, to their idling, hunting, their intriguing, and preying on their brother neighbors. And Nan- vang was left to its fall beauty, it's stillness and solitude, with only nature's own noises. The trees whispered softly, the small game
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HISTORIC GROTON
scuttled here and there in search of food; the squirrels chattered or scolded at each other as the case warranted, while they cunningly tucked their winter stores in the trunks of trees or the ground. The birds called each other together for their winter migration, and took their southward flight, and Nauyang was so still, so calm, so beautiful, while the blue waters of the great ocean rolled in through Wiccopesette and broke with a swish-swish -- lap-lap on the east shore. And on the west shore of "the point of land," it gurgled in and out among the rocks, then ran laughing out
come down from Ledyard with their baskets for sale.
In the lottery, the point where the light- house stands was drawn by James Morgan, hence its name, Morgan Point light. The land where the little old house stands, the home of Rev. A. J. Potter, and owned by his grand- father, Thomas Potter, in Revolutionary times, was drawn by John Davie first town clerk of Groton, who afterwards succeeded to his ti- tle, Sir John Davie, and returned to England to his title and estates.
As the arrival by water is much more beau-
STREET SCENE
again to the cove, and found its way to the sound. Nanyang, ever beautiful, whether in the year 1614 or Noank of the 19005.
After the raid of John Mason on the P'e- quots, and their dispersion, some of them finally wandered back to Nanyang, where they settled with "C'assasimamon" as their chief, until 1667, when they were sent to a reservation in the town of Ledyard. The land, in 1712, was drawn by the whites by lottery, allowed and sanctioned by the Hartford as- sembly. The Indians were granted the right of hunting and fishing at Nanyang as before, and as late as 1857 would make summer camp there for a short time, and in the early 60s
tiful than the prosaic way by railroad or by trolley, let us trim the sail, put up the tiller. and round lighthouse point, the extremity of "the point of land," and take a general view of the coast line of the town, which is built on both sides of a hilly ridge running northward about one mile. The shore line furnishes the best view of the industries of the place, so we will sail to the north dock and begin our ob- Servations from there. As we swing slowly to the wharf, we find that all is bustle and hurry, for some of the most hustling captains of the community have just arrived with large cargoes of fish to be iced and prepared for shipment to New York. The wharf presents
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a grand mix-up of rubber boots, squirming and flopping fish, ice, barrels, big strong hands and jokes. Every moment now must connt that they may catch the next train out. In a few hours time you may see these same men lounging like lords of leisure, or slowly spin- ning some sea yarn, as though there was no larry in the world; but now it means get their fish to market, the sooner the better, the more money to them.
The cargoes of these vessels, with things favorable, represent a financial value of $5,000 or $6,000, while their running expenses will amount to $200 a week, a good reason for hus- thing. Some of their largest cargoes are taken
there, too, all are intensely busy. We will step over there and see what enterprise they are promoting. We can just run across lots at the Zend of the wharf here, for everyone in Noank goes across lots when they choose. Here we find a small marine railway for the use of smaller vessels to hanl out on for painting, scrubbing the bottoms, canlking or any slight repairs. A minute more we are at that "other wharf." The man in the "seven leagne" boots, with a long-handled scoop net, is taking the green, snapping, fighting lobsters from a great car at the head of the dock, where they have been stored until they disgorged the bait they so greedily devoured, wholly indifferent to the
SHORE SCENE
directly to New York in their vessels, others shipped as described. Could we turn our gaze backward from thirty to sixty years and view the shores, wharf and harbor, we would see a small city of masts, which belonged to the fishing fleet, then flourishing. From seventy- live to one hundred vessels went out and came in, making their trips to New York for their market. Many of those old captains have made their last port, and cast their anchors in the long haven of rest, and only their cosey little homes, so lovingly built by them, remain as their memorial. The younger generation have taken up other business, and the present numbers of the fleet are much less, though the Imsiness is very profitable.
From here the next wharf can be seen and
state of freshness or putridness it might have been in, or waiting until the proper time for New York shipment. These are scooped into large baskets, swung on to a set of immense scales to be weighed, then packed into barrels with ice, still fighting, grabbing at anything or any one. A fellow lobster caught in the great claw is relentlessly snapped, his claw erushed to atoms, or a careless handler will have as nearly the same treatment as said carelessness will allow. Here are agents of New York firms buying from the lobstermen. such as wish to dispose of their catch in that way, while others send directly to dealers in the metropolis, or in near by cities.
The amount of capital invested in the lol- ster business each year in Noank is very con-
RESIDENCE OF MR. HARRY A. ANDERSON
....
RESIDENCE OF MR. CHARLES H. SMITH
RESIDENCE OF CAPTAIN MOSES A. FISH
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HISTORIC GROTON
RESIDENCE OF CAPTAIN BENJAMIN W. LATHAM
-
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servatively placed at $40,000. In early years those in the business depended entirely on sail to reach the lobster ground, subject to the freaks of wind and tide. In 1893, A. V. and his brother, Wayland Morgan, made a depart- ure by introducing steam in their sail boats, using a hollow mast, which served as a smoke- stack. This proved a success, as the pots could be hauled by steam. Later, gasolene motors were installed, and now are the uni- versal custom, and in the "wee sma' " hours of morning, from two a. m. and on, according to the time of tide, one may sleepily hear the pop- pop of the motors, as they start upon their day's business, and we turn over in bed to fin- ish our comfortable morning sleep. After the lobster season, these boats fish until about Dec. ist, shipping to the cities.
A short walk to the south, or, if you prefer, a row boat, as the distance is hardly worth getting the sail boat under way again, we come to the beginning of those fighting, grab- bing, disgusting looking, but delicious tasting, lobsters, the Connecticut state hatchery, pre- sided over by Capt. Latham Rathbun, estab- lished for the purpose of artificially supplying the waters of the sound, so rapidly being de- pleted by the immense demand and consump- tion of the crustacean. It is intensely inter- esting to note the process. The work begins in May and lasts until about the third week in July. A tank is built in the upper story of the house, and the sea water from the east end of the building (which is built with a door opening directly on to the water ), is pumped by gasolene or electricity into this tank. . 1 large pipe leads from the tank down to the ground floor, connecting with small pipes run- ning the water into glass jars holding about two gallons, standing on a long table for that purpose, also to a receiving tank from there, and out again to the ocean waters from whence they came. The mother lobster, which is bought by the state superintendent. and is protected by law for its spawn, is now relieved of the eggs by the hand and carefully separated from a lump that the water may re- volve each separately. These are now placed in glass jars, one-half million of them to a jar,
and the water turned on, the force being regu- lated by a small valve at the bottom of the jar, that the eggs may revolve at a certain speed. ^The water running in forces that already there over into the receiving tank, causing a never ceasing rotary movement to the eggs that hatches the small lobster, which rises at once to the top and is floated over into the tank. These are about one-third of an inch long at that time, and immediately begin their life work of eating. They are taken away al- most immediately and emptied into the waters of Long Island sound.
On experimenting as to keeping them until larger and better able to care for themselves, it was found that in about three weeks they were in the fourth stage, that is, about three- quarters of an inch in length, beginning to form shell, and perfect in shape. It is impera- tive at this stage that they should be turned out to provide for themselves, as they will die if they are kept longer. The forming of their shells gives them weight, which sinks them to the bottom, and they naturally require heavier food. Four to five years complete the growth to the lawful market size-nine inches. One season's hatchery brings out fifty million young lobsters, which would seem on a fair way to restock the waters, but their minute size at time of putting them overboard causes great loss, as many are eaten by larger fish, and only a very small proportion mature.
On our way here from the lobster wharf, we passed by the firm of J. 11. Paine & Sons, Inc., builders and repairers of steam and gaso- lene engines, marine and stationary, also their galvanizing plant, the whole with a capacity of twenty men. The sail loft of Mrs. J. Pal- mer Williams does a steady, lucrative business each year.
There are four firms for building small boats, of which Jeremiah Davis is the veteran builder of them all. Late years, these are about thirty to thirty-two feet long, with twelve to fourteen feet beam. From that size they vary to skiffs of ten or twelve feet, also to motor launches. This enterprise of the village amounts in financial results to over $12,000 ; year, running to about $15,000 some years,
HISTORIC GROTON
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The shipyard of R. Palmer & Son Co. is in the lower part of the village, towards the "Light- house" point and extending well on to the "Narrows." This is one of the largest wood shipbuilding plants on the Atlantic coast, and employs about four hundred men. The ship- yard was opened in 1851 by John Palmer, who was ordained deacon of old Fort Hill church in 1821, and later served the Noank church in the same capacity, when it was formed in 1843, till the time of his death. After his death, his two sons, John and Robert, succeeded to the business under the name of R. & J. Palmer.
at the expiration of seven years' service in that capacity, the records show he had cradled five hundred vessels safely without a mishap or error attributed to his work. As the years ad- vanced and his son, Robert, Jr., came to ma- turity, he became a member of the firm and it became Robert Palmer & Son Co., each Rob- ort having his special department, but making a united whole. New methods of doing work called for modern machinery, which was in- stalled as the occasions demanded until at the present date it is one of the finest equipped yards in the country.
D
ROBERT PALMER SOW &CO
SHIP YARD
NOANK'
THE SHIPYARD
Nothing seemed too difficult for these two men to attempt to hanl out on their marine railways and they always ended in success. The work enlarged until the death of the older brother John, a man of sterling worth and loyal Christian character, when it became the business of Robert Palmer. Under his man- agement the ever increasing busines called ou! the natural abilities and executive qualities he possessed. The marine railways have been under the direction and superintendence, for a number of years of Charles R. Palmer, only surviving son of John Palmer, the former member of the firm. His record does honor to the older members and their training when,
Suppose we take a walk round the yard and see many things new to us and immensely in- teresting. This long red shop is the oldest building. In the upper story we find the floor covered with strange lines, which to us seem only a confused mass, meaning nothing at all ; but there stands a short heavily built, oldish man with short, gray hair-Mr. Led- vard Daboll, who tells us. "that is the draft- ing of some new vessel," and he certainly ought to know, for he has drafted on these same floors for many a long year, he says over fifty, and the years have used and touched him kindly.
Now here in this room, begin those vessels
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on the stocks which we can see from the win- dows, looking toward the north, south and west. Vessels of various kinds and in differ- ent stages of progress meet the eye. There
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SCHOOLHOUSE
is the staunch little aggressive tug boat, built te breast all kinds of weather and hardship of life, its only object to get there with its tow. There is. the dapper, spick-span. dandy yacht, like a society belle, designed only for pleasure and will sail the world over to find it ; also the steamboat of a passenger or freight line combining some of the elements of both the others. Then the just useful, without beauty, the railroad floats and coal barges. But the wonder of their construction and their great clumsy dignity of usefulness, strongly appeal to one as he goes from one to another watching the different stages and workman- ship.
Ilere is one just begun by laying the keel ; then comes the square body frame which is set up beginning at the middle of the craft and worked towards either end; then the kilson, cants, stem and stern post, next the ceiling or inside planking and the deck. A large iron band, six inches by three-quarters inch in thickness, is then bound round the top, and iron bands, three and one-half inches by one- half inch in thickness run down the sides diag- onally and cross diagonally, thus forming a stay of iron in form of diamonds over the en- tire body of the vessel. The. frame is cut away for these so when they go into place they are flush. This is one of the most interesting
stages, such provisions of strength, and re- sistance for weight, weather and endurance.
As the outside planking begins, the salting begins. Usually at this announcement a smile of incredulity creeps over the countenance of the uninitiated, thinking they are being guyed, but a great quantity of sah is poured in as the planking proceeds. . This is to preserve the wood. The outside planking is of planks of 4 to 7 inches, which are spiked with galvanized spikes 8 and to inches long, also trenails driven through from outer to inner planks fas- tened at both ends with wedges driven in, butt bolts riveted at the end. and every condition for strength attended to. The caulking is also interesting. We see the men open the seams with an iron, and oakum, which is slightly twisted, similar to candlewick but the size of a man's wrist, is forced into the opened seam and driven in until the oakum is as solid as the plank itself and thoroughly water tight. The planers follow the canlkers as they work.
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