USA > Iowa > Story County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Story County, Iowa > Part 16
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HISTORY OF IOWA.
first jealousy was between the north and south sides. After this some business houses were built where the jail now stands. Then the business from the north was moved to the south side, and finally the true prophet, in the person of J. H. Sinclair, took the corner now occupied by Mr. Ringhiem. There was also a furniture honse, that of Cessna & Frazier, south of the park. Davis & Cory were pioneer merchants at Iowa Center. From all accounts business was run on very primitive and inartistic methods by this firm. Cory was a Baptist exhorter, or preacher, and Davis an awkward, honest, good-natured man, who was afterward elected county treasurer, and generally spoken of as "Uncle Tommy." Baldwin & Young and M. M. & T. J. Ross also were early business houses at Iowa Cen- ter. T. J. Ross became county treasurer. F. M. Baldwin has continued in business from that time, and has long been the senior of the firm of Baldwin & Maxwell, a house that has prob- ably done a total volume of business greater than that of any other firm in Central Iowa.
J. C. Sladden did business in an early period at Cambridge and Iowa Center. The Larsons are very old merchants of Fairview (Story City).
The general surface of this county is that of a comparatively level plain. In the early times many people thought much of it too nearly level for general husbandry. It is true that Skunk River flows across the entire length of the county from north to sonth, and has many miles of tributaries from the east and the west, all of which are so far below the general level . as to furnish opportunity for the easy outflow of any superabundant moisture. The same condition is seen on the borders of Minerva Creek, in the northeast, and Clear Creek, in the southeast, but in seasons of excessive rain- fall, when the face of the country was covered
with the heavy coating of the native grasses as then seen, the wild sod was like a sponge from which the grasses prevented evaporation. There were also innumerable depressions in the general surface, shallow cups of a few square rods in extent, or covering several acres, as the case might be, in which the water would stand throughout the summer. Some of these ponds would have a depth of two or three feet, while others would have but a few inches. But to such an extent did water prevail on the surface that several thousand acres were con- demned as swamp and overflowed lands, and so certified and granted by the general Govern- ment.
This character of the surface gave the lands of the county for many years an unsavory rep- utation. Thousands of acres were in reality at that time almost without value for crops of grain or grass. The settlers could see that by the treading of domestic live stock the outlets of these ponds were lowered, and lost their spongy character, and that gradually the sur- faces of the ponds were contracting. But to many an emigrant seeking a home the repre- sentation that such were the richest lands, and would in time be more valuable than the lighter soils in other counties, was not heeded, and they went farther, often, perhaps, faring worse. The passing traveler, too, sometimes found himself mired in a pond or slough, and went his way deriding and cursing "the frog- ponds" of Story County. All this has greatly changed. The mere settlement of the country has in places turned the quaking bog into a pasture of solid footing. The destruction of the wild sod has opened surface drains that leave the low places dry and firm. Grading up highways and opening roadside ditches have given increased drainage facilities. Above all these perhaps the use of tile in the farms and on the highways has had the greatest effect in
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this matter. To-day the county gives returns for judicious farming, acre for acre, that will compare favorably with the best counties in Iowa. The roads also have been improved, the streams have been bridged, and the trav- eler may pass not only in safety and comfort, but with absolute pleasure, wherever he will. The level lands have a recognized value in the market according to the certainty and amount of their liberal returns for labor expanded, and are sought as an investment and for homes by those who are the best informed. This differ- ent condition of the country in early times, and the sluggish character of Skunk River, had their influences also on the early settle- ment, and such intercourse among the pioneers as might be practicable. In some seasons the river bottoms were overflowed from bluff to bluff, and for weeks at a time the smaller streams were not fordable. There were no bridges. If to this are added the difficulties of crossing the flat prairies, meandering the ponds and wading the sloughs, it is not to be wondered that the widely scattered and small settlements should be little known outside of their immediate neighborhoods. As before stated, under these circumstances the citizens respectively of the eastern and western parts of the country were to each other as Jews to Samaritans.
It is scarcely possible to convey to those who have settled in Story County within the past ten years, much less to those who became citi- zens at a later date, the influence upon the set- tlement of the county exerted by the annual overflow of Skunk River, and the exhibition of the hundreds of rush ponds that covered the county in the early days. Neither of these was of very great importance, considered only in rela- tion to the amount of surface they occupied, but they influenced the value of every acre of good land, whether near it or not. Now the
river is well bridged, the approaches have been graded up, and some lahor has been done toward facilitating the outflow of the surplus waters that follow the heavy or long continued rains. Many of the large bends in the river have been ent off by ditches constructed especially through Polk and Jasper Counties, and this has measurably relieved many bottom lands farther up the stream. Before this work had been done, and before the grades had been made and the bridges built, Skunk River was a terror to the traveler in Central Iowa. Its moral effect was such upon the people of Des Moines that when that city sought an outlet for a first railway connection, the supposed ex- pense and trouble of grading and bridging that river near Cambridge, in Story Connty, was an element in bringing the directors to the deter- mination to make the railway connection with- out crossing the river. They for that reason voted to connect with the Chicago & North- Western at Ames, notwithstanding they wanted the most direct connection possible with the East; also, because of the width of the bottoms and the height of the grade necessary in mak- ing passable crossings, the county and township authorities were slow to incur the heavy expense. Besides, the difficulty of grading and bridging ordinary roads across the sloughs and ponds entailed a much greater expense than would have been necessary had the general surface drainage been naturally better. It is therefore a fact that the early settlers have been so heav- ily taxed in this direction that the delay in meeting some of these demands has been ex- cusable.
The bearing of this question upon the de- velopment of the county has been such that its further illustration seems appropriate; and as the conditions have been so thoroughly changed and improved within the past fifteen years that one is liable to forget the former
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state of affairs unless reminded by actual facts and experiences, a few of them are here mentioned.
In those days driving across the country with success gave scope to the tact and judg- ment of the driver which is now rarely remem- bered. To haul heavily laden wagons across treacherous fords and bottomless sloughs with- out accident, was the work of genius supple- mented with courage. Passable fords were as well known then as the principal bridges are now; and to be informed as to the least danger- ous points of attempting the various "big sloughs" was to have valuable wisdom. Even as late as from 1860 to 1865 some of those who lived on the bluffs which overlooked the cross- ing of Skunk River, near Cambridge, were em- ployed as guides in crossing the expanse of low ground that is now to be passed on the grade and bridges, without a thought as to why they were built where there is ordinarily no water. The guide, on horseback, governed by landmarks known to himself, would lead the way, avoiding the deeper places and the softer ground, followed by the team of the traveler, midside deep in water, the flood entering the carriage, the lady passengers and the luggage piled somewhat promiscuously upon the highest seats, room being made for them by the driver in broadcloth vacating the vehicle and striding one or other of the unhappy horses that floun- dered on with the load. The writer of this once saw the attorney-general of Iowa in this absurd position, accompanied by his wife and children. This must have been as early as 1860, for the distinguished gentleman fell in battle during the war. Is it to be wondered that the memories of the early traveler in Story County should not be cheerful, and that he should regard one such experience as more than enough ?
Perhaps no single incident in pioneer life
better illustrates the freaks of Skunk River in its palmy days, and also the courage and skill that were born of extremity, than does the ex- perience of one even now a citizen in the vigor of life. It was an occasion in which Mrs. Julia Walker, then Miss Romane, took an involun- tary and remarkable bath. In the fall of 1862, with a horse and buggy, on her way to visit some friends in Mitchellville, a little before sun- set she reached the crossing near Plummer's, about two miles from Mitchellville. The road wound among the bayous in the bottom, through the timber, and was not a pleasant or attractive drive under its best conditions. But covered with water, the light fading, the dark shadows of the tress playing upon the surface and misleading the eye and judgment, it must needs have been a very brave girl that would attempt the treacherous passage at such an hour.
The fair Julia had little time for parley with the child near Plummer's house, who told her that men on horseback had crossed during the day. She had already driven many miles to find a bridge that showed above the flood, and being so near her destination, did not hesitate. With a stout heart she began to thread the labyrinth out and in among the trees, with water from fetlock to midside, holding her water course until the bridge was reached and the raging channel safely crossed. Though twilight was deepening, she was full of hope, for through openings in the trees could be seen the far-off shore. But soon the party came to grief. Deeper and deeper went the buggy, until the brave driver took perch upon the seat, as the tide rolled through the box. Even this resource failed, for, in a moment, withont notice, all footing was lost, and horse, buggy and driver went into the depths. The subse- quent events will probably never be told in their exact order. After a lapse of more than
J.a.Bigelow
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a quarter of a century, Mrs. Walker is the sole survivor of what might have been a sad trag- edy, and she has little disposition to give the world her best impressions and recollections. No doubt she was more engrossed in those try- ing hours with the results to be attained than with the manner of their accomplishment. In imagination can be seen, even in the growing darkness, a somewhat obscure and tragic pict- ure of a rather ghostly horse, harness and buggy, in a waste of waters, badly confused as to the present, and almost hopeless as to the future. In the foreground of this scene, in what might safely be called a dissolving view, are glimpses of damp calico and other portions of feminine apparel, alternately floating and clinging about the form of a woman in a des- perate situation, but stout of heart, and with no thought of quitting until the job was done.
But imagination will not do justice to the actual scene. Kate Shelly in her wild flight through the woods, over the pathless bluffs, and across the swollen river, in her errand of life and death had solid footing. Julia Ro- mane was in the flood, not above it, and had before her the task of saving her own life, aud rescuing the only other living thing in sight, the faithful horse. Both of these she accomplished. It seems that in the plunge in which all were engulfed, the buggy and its oc- cupant were thrown forward, and Miss Romane was not only on the horse's back, but securely fastened there by means of the interlacing of her steel-ribbed crinoline and the turrets of the harness. This fastening she could neither undo nor break. In his struggles the horse broke from the vehicle, and got a temporary but insecure footing, and his involuntary rider found no way of freeing herself but by slip- ping out of her heavy clothing, and leaving her garments on the horse. This she did, and, after securing her horse to a tree, to
prevent him from following her, for the poor beast seem to feel that in her assistance his safety was to be found, she struck out for land. In her wanderings she crossed the main chan- nel and attempted to stride a floating log, in the hope that it would help her on her way, but in the two attempts she made the log turned so quickly as to go over her each time to her grave peril. But she had already learned to swim, or rather she "found she could swim," and she breasted the current thereafter without the aid of floating logs, and finally reached the north shore about half a mile below where she had entered the water some hours before.
Seeing a light that promised shelter and aid, she carefully advanced, and found it to proceed from the window of Mr. Plummer's dwelling. Knocking at the door, she was admitted by a thoroughly frightened little girl, sole occupant of the house, the remainder of the family, with some hastily summoned neighbors, being then engaged in exploring the river for the lost woman, who was supposed to have been drowned. Miss Romane made a hasty con- tract with the child for some much-needed clothing, arrayed herself as best she could in misfit garments a world too small, and serenely awaited the surprise of her good friends on their return home, and their congratulations on her brave and successful struggle with the noted river on a bender.
In 1864-65 the Western Stage Company connected the State capital with the Chicago & North-Western Railway at Nevada. This line of railway being then extended farther west than any other, and affording the best means of get- ting from Des Moines to the world outside, and vice versa, the coaches did a rushing business. The highways were even then neither graded nor bridged, except at points where they were otherwise impassable. Much of the line of
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HISTORY OF IOWA.
travel was over the unenclosed prairie, and wherever practicable followed the dry and hard summits or divides, often at an expense in dis- tance. Of necessity many low places were to be crossed on the quivering sod, or through depths of mud where much travel had worn it through. In these experiences the wily Jehu would drive at the bog in fury, hoping to so far pass it by virtue of inertia that the leaders could at last reach solid footing on the farther side and drag forth the coach before it had time with its human freight to sink hopelessly in the mire. Many an absurd and sorrowful experience was had in transit. If the coach "mired down," fair women were borne on the shoulders of brave men to solid ground. Heavy baggage was removed as best it could be done. Extra force of team and driver, with long ca- bles, were transferred from other coaches. Farmers were induced, by round sums in hand paid, to extricate the coach, or carry the load to the nearest station, or to the end of the route. These adventures were not confined to the humble and unknown traveler, but judges, gov- ernors, generals, some of whom still live, could tell tales of woe then experienced.
It was in one of these coaches that the world came near losing the valuable services of its recent distinguished and most able first as- sistant postmaster-general. He was then the youthful and plain " Ret " Clarkson, full of hope, courage, and promise, engaged on the staff of the great journal of which he has been so long editor and owner with his no less able brother. The coach was overturned, and Mr. Clarkson was very seriously hurt. He was brought to Nevada, where he laid by for repairs which only time and care could give. Thus did Story County in that early day have somewhat to do with civil service reform.
The early settlers did not expect nor demand of the Government the amount of consideration
now accorded to the pioneer. Before the days of free homesteads, land for the landless, and squatter sovereignty, as political slogans, it was thought to be fair treatment to the man on the frontier if the Government gave such protection as enabled him to save his scalp for his own head. He was charged from 5 to 25 cents for each half-ounce letter, according to the distance. There was no free delivery even in cities, and the family in the country that was within a few miles of a post-office was in luck to that extent. The post-office least distant from the settlement on East In- dian was at Apple Grove, in Polk County. This was a station of the stage company on the lines both from Iowa City and Oskaloosa to Fort Des Moines, then briefly described as "The Fort." The lines from the east, by way of Newton, and from the southeast, by way of Toole's Point, came together near the Apple Grove station. It happened that some of the settlers on East Indian had friends at Trul- linger's Grove. The mail of East Indian set- tlers was sent to Trullinger's by unofficial hands, and forwarded as opportunity offered. Settlers west of Skunk River got their mail in these times at "The Fort." These were the conditions and facilities for Story County, from the first settlement until the building of the county seat was begun.
The first post-office established in the county was at Nevada. It happened that when the commissioners met, June 27, 1853, to locate the county seat, T. E. Alderman was present. He then determined to make the proposed town of Nevada his future home. On his return to his residence in Henry County, he made appli- cation for the postmastership of the office, which must necessarily be soon established at the new county seat. His recommendations were from his home in Henry County. The application was granted; his commission was sent him.
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He was directed to employ a carrier on the route to Fort Des Moines and back once a week. Under these instructions Joseph P. Robinson was employed to perform the service. The route was established by way of Iowa Center, Peoria, Cory's Grove and Daniel Justice's, on Four-Mile. The first trip was made in November, 1853. This first post-office in the county was kept in the famous pioneer store of T. E. Alderman, he having pluckily carried out his intentions of being the first set- tler in the town, first merchant in the county and first representative of the post-office de- partment. The receipts for the first quarter were $1.25, of which the postmaster had sixty per cent of a total of 75 cents. But the day of small things is not to be despised. This ap- parently insignificant establishment, with one mail in seven days, was but the harbinger of a service that now delivers its precious parcels through eighteen offices, some of which are supplied an average of five times each day, and seven days in every week. If those were the days of hope these are the days of fruition. The mails became more frequent as population increased. The weekly was followed by semi and tri-weekly trips, and supplemented by mails on other routes. It was not till Feburary, 1864, that the mails came daily.
Post-offices were next established at New Philadelphia and Bloomington, to be served from the office at Nevada, and for the trans- portation of the mail on that route, Joseph A. Fitchpatrick was the contractor. This was un- doubtedly a "star route, " for it is well re- membered that when it was impassable to every other conveyance, the contractor, still known affectionately to his intimate friends as "Joe," then a mere boy, braved storm and flood on foot in the service of the Government, and never missed a trip. His compensation was 75 cents for each trip, once a week.
In the Fifth General Assembly the Sena- torial and Representative districts which in- cluded Story County were severally repre- sented by Hon. James C. Jordan, of Polk County, and Hon. S. B. McCall, of Boone County. Both these gentlemen being neigh- bors and well acquainted with their constitu- ency in this county looked well to the local in- terests. Among the acts secured by them were several for the location of State roads. It was provided in one of these that Wesley A. Daniel, of Tama County, Nathan F. Yeo- mans, of Marshall County, and Samuel Mc- Daniel, of Story County, should be commis- sioners to locate a road from Toledo via Mar- shall to Nevada. The act provided that the commissioners, or a majority of them, should meet on the first Monday in April, or within six months thereafter, at Toledo, or at some other point by them agreed upon, and taking to their assistance a surveyor and the necessary chainmen and markers, and having been duly sworn to the faithful discharge of their several duties, to proceed to locate said road accord- ing to law. These commissioners and their assistants were to receive a per diem that was to be paid from the county treasury. Another act of the same General Assembly provided for a similar road from Fort Des Moines via Nevada and Eldora to Cedar Falls. John Keigley was the commissioner from Story County. The same law made it the duty of Evan C. Evans and T. J. Adamson, on the part of Story County, to establish a similar road from Newton via Nevada and Smithville, in Story County, to Homer, in Webster County. At the same session and in the same manner similar highways were located from Marietta via Nevada, Boonsboro, Jefferson, and Ma - son's Grove to Ashton, in Monona County; and from Nevada to the town of Rapids, in Boone County.
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This General Assembly also adopted resolu- tions instructing and requesting the Iowa Senators and Representatives in Congress to use their influence to procure additional mail facilities as follows: "From Fort Des Moines via Nevada, Minerva Grove, Henry Grove, and Eldora, to Cedar Falls, in two-horse coaches, once a week." "From Newton via Nevada and Smithville to Homer, the county seat of Webster County, in two-horse coaches, once a week." "From Cedar Rapids via Vinton, Toledo, Marshall, Marietta, Nevada, and Boonsboro, to Jefferson, in two-horse coaches, semi-weekly." These acts and resolutions were approved by the governor in January, 1855. Accordingly, at an early day, mail routes were established between Des Moines and Eldora, between Newton and Homer, be- tween Marietta and Boonsboro, all of which crossed Story County. Sheffield Post-office was established near Smithville, in Howard Township, of which Samuel Bates was the post- master; and an office was established at Fair- view of which F. W. Rhoads was the first post- master. This office was named Story City, which finally became the name of the town. An office was also established at Cambridge, of which Jairus Chandler was the first post- master. For a time this office supplied mail to an office in Ballard Grove, but there was no regular carrier. The service fell to the neigh- bors, and was performed according to conven- ience. There was also a post-office at an early date on the west side of Indian Creek, about a mile north of Maxwell. It was named Goshen, and the postmaster was the elder Jeremiah Cory.
The first mail from Eldora arrived on the evening of October 8, 1858. It came in a hack drawn by two horses. On this route there was an office established at the residence of W. M. Kelley, Section 26 of Richland town-
ship, of which Mr. Kelley was the postmaster. The office was named Johnson's Grove.
It is said that the people of no other nation have the capacity of Americans for adapting themselves to circumstances. The western American, especially, having sundered old ties, while forming new ones, unconsciously appro- priates the better peculiarities of his new asso- ciates, and lops off some of his own that may well be spared. In this way he becomes a more rugged citizen, and runs on a broader gauge. His environment has an influence on him socially. He yields to necessity, and learns to lend as well as borrow. His table and that of his neighbor are much alike, of necessity, and he accepts and extends courtesies without thought of hospitality. This freedom was so common among the pioneers that liberality was scarcely rated as a virtue. Still, self-interest may have had something to do with extending civilities to strangers. It was an object to have them locate here, and the intention was to make matters agreeable. Politeness grows on that it feeds. Frank courtesy became a habit with the western pioneer, who was not by nature or education a bear or a boor, and he thus learned to let the light of his countenance be seen by his associates. This western free- dom has had the sneers of dudes who affect superiority to such emotions as are generous and manly, but its indulgence has had much influence in forming the character of western men whom the world delights to honor.
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