USA > Iowa > Clayton County > History of Clayton County, Iowa : from the earliest historical times down to the present : including a genealogical and biographical record of many representative families, prepared from data obtained from original sources of information, Volume I > Part 10
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Succeeding issues contain advertisements of B. S. Forbes' Cash Store, at Garnavillo, the New York Store, kept by Thomas Cole & Bros., at Colesburg ; H. D. Evans, general merchandise at McGregor's Landing. The pages are enlivened by a lengthy debate between Mur- dock and Professor Craig, relative to "Mind and Matter," and Pro- fessor Craig also contributes lengthy series of articles on geology and spiritualism. Very naturally, the new paper dwells at considerable
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length upon Clayton county and its various communities. No better picture of the county as it was in 1853 could be given than is presented by these articles which are quoted, at length.
CLAYTON COUNTY-ITS RESOURCES AND ITS PROSPECTS
This county contains an area of 792 square miles or 506,880 acres. On the first of January, 1853, there were about 431,880 acres purchased from government and about 75,000 remaining unsold. According to the best information we have been able to obtain, there is not over one- tenth part of the purchased land which is now under cultivation. This makes 43,180 acres, leaving a balance in the county of 463,692 acres as yet uncultivated. Deduct from the total amount one-fifth part for waste and timber land-which we think quite sufficient, in as much as the timber lands compose a large portion of what is now denominated waste land-and we have left, 405,504 acres of arable land, or nearly ten times the amount now under cultivation. The present population of the county is at least 7,000, being an increase in the last two years of 78 per cent, or 36 per cent per annum. We can hardly expect this increase of population to continue for the next ten years ; but suppose it amounts to 25 per cent, on the average, our population will amount on the first day of January, 1863, to nearly 25,000, equal to double the present population of Dubuque county, city inclusive. We learn that the surplus, in wheat alone, for the last year, will not be less than 40,000 bushels, or 8,000 barrels of flour. Assuming then, that our former calculation is correct, and we shall have a surplus, in the article of wheat alone, of 400,000 bushels, when all the land is once under cul- tivation. Adding at least one-half for superior culture, and we have a surplus of 600,000 bushels, or 120,000 barrels. As a large portion of the county is well adapted to growing stock, there is no doubt but the future surplus will consist more of beef, pork, horses, sheep, etc., and less of the one article (wheat) which now forms almost the entire article of export. We nearly overlooked the fact that there will be some 15,000 or 20,000 bushels of oats and as much corn sent away in the coming spring. . Our water power is abundant and of the best quality ; and our timber will compare favorably with any portion of the west.
There is, perhaps, no county in the state which possesses more manufacturing advantages than this. Turkey river, which meanders the county from northwest to southeast, will furnish (when the capital and business of the country will warrant its improvement) an almost unlimited water power. There are also several important branches putting into said river, which furnish water power but little inferior to the main stream. Several mills have been already erected, and others are being built on the main river and its tributaries ; but we shall speak more particularly of these under the head of Towns and Villages. In the east and northeastern portions of the county are several smaller streams upon which a number of mills have been erected, and an abundance of power remains unimproved. Our com- mercial advantages are at least inferior to no other county in the state, except it may be Lee county. The Mississippi river-which forms
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the great natural commercial channel for our exports and imports- washes our entire eastern boundary, upon the western shore of which are already situated four enterprising and rapidly growing towns. These towns must, at no distant day, necessarily, furnish, in a great measure, the commercial exchanges, not only for this, but for the contiguous counties, especially those in a western direction. And here we would call the attention of these counties, not only directly west of us, but of those also in a southwest direction to the fact that they are several miles nearer the Mississippi river in this county than at any other point. For instance : Independence, in Buchanan county, is twenty-five miles nearer the river at Guttenberg, Clayton or Mc- Gregor than at Dubuque. But we are digressing.
Our prospects are soon to brighten by the completion of the rail- road to the Mississippi river, opposite Dubuque, when we shall be in direct communication with the eastern markets. This will not only add largely to the emigration here, but will furnish a larger scope for our surplus produce, etc. We learn from an authentic source that the Milwaukee and Mississippi road has now fixed its western terminus opposite Dubuque. Undoubtedly the present policy of the company dictated the precise course which has been pursued, otherwise their wisdom would have sought a different location; but that the wants of this portion of the state and the western portion of Wisconsin will at no distant day call for a road commencing not over twenty-five miles either above or below the mouth of the Wisconsin river, and thence running east to connect either with the Milwaukee road at Madison, or the Chicago road through the Jaynesville, Beloit and Belvidere road, appears to us as absolutely certain. This once com- pleted, and ten hours' ride will bring us to either Milwaukee or Chicago, and two and a half days to New York, Boston, Philadelphia or Washington City.
Towns in 1853-After this glowing discription of the county as a whole the early numbers of the Herald give descriptions of the various towns of the county. These are as follows:
Buena Vista-This town is situated on the Mississippi river in the southeast part of the county. It was laid out October 31, 1848, by William H. Stevens, who subsequently sold it to H. H. Day, the present proprietor.
Francis Cole, of Colesburg, a flourishing inland town situated in Delaware county, erected the first frame building at Buena Vista, which was used for a store house; but owing to the sparse settlements in its immediate vicinity, the town did not improve much until the summer of 1851. Early in the summer of 1851, William H. Stevens and Tobias Walker accidentally discovered a vein of lead ore just back of the town, which soon changed the scene to a kind of second California. Miners flocked in from all directions, and steam 'boats, which rarely called at the place before, were now loaded with miners, merchants, mechanics, speculators and pickpockets, all in search of the almighty dollar. The town, which before only contained a population of about a dozen more or less, now (1851) numbered about five hundred-the price of fare varying according to the size of the tree against which, if you were lucky enough to be in season, you might
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lean at night. On the first of October, 1851, Messrs. Brady, Lubeck and others, laid out an addition to the town, called Upper Buena Vista. Lots sold at enormous rates, and the town improved in a rapid manner. On the twenty-second of June, 1852, Charles Brady laid out another addition, called Middle Buena Vista. After the first excite- ment incident to such mining towns was over, the place continued to improve ; business settled down into its proper channels, and the town at this time is in a prosperous and flourishing condition. Chauvette, Day and Little, we believe, have the principal leads at this time. What yield of mineral they are getting we do not know, but should like to be posted up on this and any other matters relative to the place, by some one of its citizens who may feel an interest in doing it.
McGregor-This town is situated in the northeastern portion of this county, on the Mississippi river, and directly opposite Prairie du Chien. It has been long known as a point for storing government supplies destined for Fort Atkinson, and goods for the Indian traders, up to the time the Winnebago Indians were removed to Crow Wing river, in Minnesota Territory. The town was surveyed in the summer of 1846, but like most of the towns in this county, did not improve very much previous to the year 1850. Since that time the improve- ments have been of that steady and firm character which characterize all our river towns, and argue well for their future prosperity. The road from McGregor to Fort Atkinson (distance 49 miles) follows one unbroken divide, or ridge of land, and in natural advantages probably is not surpassed by any route in northern Iowa of the same length. Nature formed the road, leaving man but little to do beyond appropriating the same to his own use and behoof forever. The town has a good steamboat landing, and has several stores, which are doing a good business. H. D. Evans (whose card will be found in our columns) is doing a large business, and also wholesaling a considerable amount to the back country. We believe there are two public houses at this place, and a steam saw-mill being erected, together with several mechanic shops of the different trades, etc., etc. On the whole the town is in a thriving condition, and no doubt is destined to reach a position far beyond the speculations of the can'ts and standstills, who wonder if that fine edifice just erected is not the last which will ever be built, or if the last discovery in science or the mechanic arts is not the ultimatum of human perfection.
Guttenburg-This town, which was formerly called Prairie la Porte, (meaning Door of the Prairie) is situated on the west bank of the Mississippi river, in Town. 92 north, range 3 west. The prairie upon which the town is situated comprises about one thousand acres, a portion of which was originally purchased from the government by the county commissioners of this county, and surveyed into lots, a part of which were sold for the benefit of the county, and the whole were subsequently sold to the Western Settlement Society of Cincinnati, Ohio. Said society, after laying out a large addition to the town, and getting the name changed to Guttenberg, sold the lots in what were termed sections, each comprising three lots and an acre lot, said acre lots being situated on the bluffs, and designed principally for resi- dences. We have never witnessed a more picturesque view of the
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Mississippi river than from this part of the town. That portion of the town along the brink of the river rises some fifteen feet above high water mark, and gradually descends towards the bluffs. Had the land naturally ascended from the river in proportion as it descends, it would have been one of the best town sites on the river, between St. Paul and St. Louis. This natural defect will in a great measure be remedied, in time, by building dikes, filling up, etc .; in fact, the corporation has already expended a considerable amount for this purpose. The town was incorporated by an act of the legislature in 1850, and an enter- prising spirit is manifested by its citizens, truly commendable, in levy- ing taxes for the purpose of grading roads to render the place easy of access from the surrounding country, and for other purposes.
Mining is carried on to a considerable extent in the vicinity, and must be paying extremely well at the prices for mineral. There have been two smelting furnaces erected on Miners' branch. This stream also furnishes water power sufficient for manufacturing purposes. The town contains a population of from five to six hundred; has a good steamboat landing, two public houses, and several stores, some of which are doing a large business. The county seat was first located here, and at that time-Iowa being but a territory, under the immediate jurisdiction of the Federal Government-the costs incident to litigation were drawn from the pockets of Uncle Sam. The parties litigant, jurors, etc., like all others who feed at the public crib, were not in the habit of dispatching business on the locomotive principle; although, if the legends of trading can be relied on, the application of steam was occasionally made to facilitate their operations.
Clayton-The town of Clayton is the youngest of all the rising towns of Clayton county. It was surveyed in the fall of 1849-the present site of the town being a dense forest of timber previous to that time. The place is situated on section 1, township 93 north, range 3 west ; it is six miles from Garnavillo and fifteen miles from Elkader. The beginning of business at the place was made by Frank Smith & Co., who, in the fall of 1849, erected a warehouse and store and com- menced the mercantile business. The town did not improve much until the fall of 1851, when it took a start, and has steadily improved until the present time. There are now three stores in the place, and another is soon to be opened by the enterprising house of Clark & Rogers, now of Garnavillo. There is also a fair complement of mechanics of various trades, and from the preparations made by some of them, we conclude that manufacturing to a considerable extent will be car- ried on there, especially in wagon and plow making. Some idea of the business of the place may be obtained from consideration of the fact that Clark & Rogers and Frank Smith & Co., have purchased about forty thousand bushels of grain, mostly wheat, which amount has nearly all been obtained since the first day of January, 1853, neither of those firms being prepared to purchase to any extent previous to that time, for want of warehouse room. Messrs. Frank Smith & Co. will complete their large steam sawmill in June or July next and Messrs. Linton and Douglass have their sawmill, situated on Read's creek, nearly completed. These mills will largely increase the business of the place, and will be of great benefit to the surrounding country. Clayton
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has heretofore carried on a considerable commerce in steamboat wood, obtained principally from the islands of the river near the place. These islands are swamp lands, and have recently been given to the county by the state. The county judge-in pursuance of a plain duty imposed by law-recently made a descent on the wood choppers engaged in despoiling those lands of their timber, and we learn that-either in consequence of his warnings, or of the recent thaw-the wood choppers have desisted, at least for a season. Clayton has a good steamboat landing, excellent timber in its vicinity, good building stone, and, like all the river towns of Clayton county, a good country back of it, and like all of them a bright prospect for the future.
Garnavillo-This town is situated near the geographical centre of the county, on a high, rolling prairie, and six miles from the Missis- sippi. The county seat was formerly located at Prairie la Porte (now Guttenberg) but for the last ten years has been at this place. It can hardly be expected that we should boast very highly of either our com- mercial or manufacturing advantages, although we are in close prox- imity to both. We are only six miles from the Father of Waters, and have a stream only two miles distant, which affords admirable water power. A sawmill was built on this stream last fall, by our townsman B. F. Forbes, who intends building a flouring mill at no distant day. There is another sawmill being erected by Corning & Brothers a short distance below the former. There is a Court House (such as it is) at this place, one public house, five stores, four churches and one printing office, (the Herald). There are the county offices also, and several mechanic shops of the different trades. There will be several buildings erected this season, providing lumber can be obtained and we think it high time, where an ordinary log cabin rents for forty dollars a year payable semi-annually, in advance.
Volga City-This town is situated on the Volga, a branch of Turkey river, and is nine miles from Elkader and 25 miles from the Mississippi. It was laid out into town lots in the summer of 1852, and quite a number have been improved. The enterprising proprie- tors, W. H. and A. L. Gould, have already erected a sawmill and are now building a flouring mill at this place. A portion of the water power has already been applied to other mechanical purposes. It is situated on one of the main thoroughfares, leading from the interior portion of the state to the river, and will, beyond doubt make a thriv- ing village.
Elkport-This town is on Turkey river, 15 miles from the Mis- sissippi. It was laid out in 1853, but we are not in possession of sufficient information relative to the place to state with accuracy the amount of improvement which has been done. A belief has been entertained that steamboats would some day ply regularly between the mouth of the river and this place and even as high up as Elkader, but in this age of railroad progress it is very doubtful whether it would pay to make the necessary improvements to render the river available.
Millville-Is on Turkey river and possesses some indications of a town, although at present it is in about the same predicament that the sun was directly after the commands of Joshua. The town busi- ness is done here, and there is a flouring mill, post office, etc. It was
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formerly a kind of tributary to the great town of Winchester, the whereabouts of which may be learned from some of the old maps of Iowa in about 1837, when Cassville was aspiring to be the capital of Wisconsin.
Monona-This place is situated on a high prairie, 12 miles from McGregor and on the main road to Fort Atkinson. It has a public house, two stores, several mechanic shops; and is surrounded by a beautiful country. We have seen no place in Iowa where the beauty of the landscape in summer was more attractive than this place.
Elkader-This town is on Turkey river about 16 miles from the Mississippi at Clayton, and 18 at McGregor. It was surveyed into lots in the summer of 1846. The almost unlimited water power at this place forms a nucleus around which, at no distant day, a populous and enterprising village is sure to grow, as the country around it is sure to advance in population and wealth. The enterprising firm of Thompson, Sage & Davis improved the water power, and erected a saw and flouring mill here at an early day. The latter will compare favorably both in size and workmanship, with any in the middle or northern states. We understand that they have bought this season, upwards of 30,000 bushels of wheat, which was raised in the vicinity and west of the place-the most of the crops raised in the eastern portion of the county being sold at different points on the river. Chester Sage retired from the firm last spring, and we have been informed that T. Davis, of Dubuque, has purchased the entire interest of John Thompson and will move there during the coming months. Carter & Co. and Freeman & Lawrence, are each doing an exten- sive mercantile business. There are one or two smaller establish- ments in the place, also a foundry, wagon and carriage shop, plow shop and many other kinds of mechanical business carried on, which, from appearance, we should think were doing well.
RIVER TRAFFIC
A picture of the eager activity of the time is given in the Herald of April 22, 1853. It says: "The river is now open to St. Peters, and boats are making their regular trips. The late rains have raised the river so that there is no difficulty in the largest boat running over the rapids and no hindrance need be anticipated for some time to come. Several boats have been through heavily loaded with freight and crowded with passengers. Most of the passengers, thus far, have been destined to the upper country, although many have stopped at different points in this county. Those who have come here report themselves as only the advance guard to what are coming this season, and, if we mistake not, many who have gone to the upper country for the purpose of locating farming lands will yet return to northern Iowa before making their investments.
"Many of our merchants are in the cities making their purchases, and some have already returned with heavy supplies, and are dealing them out at low figures. Every department of business seems to have received a new impulse, and is generating strength from day to day. Especially is this true of our river towns. The call for tenements of
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different kinds was never before equal to this; anything that will pass for a house, brings a large. rent, and the supply nowhere equals the demand."
The same issue gives the vote of the county as follows : For regis- ter of Des Moines improvement, H. R. Warden, 177; George Gillaspy, 265; for commissioner, Des Moines river improvement, Uriah Biggs, 83; Josiah H. Bonney, 285; for drainage commissioner, John M. Gay, 107; E. H. Hiett, 553. About half the votes of the county was polled. Testing seed corn is not such a recent fad as some may think for this paper tells that "William Schultz, one of our large and classical farm- ers, has shown us a sample of the corn which he saved for seed, and which he has tried, and every kernel has come well. He says that he is careful to pick his seed before the first frost, and secure it in a proper manner, and his seed has never failed since he has been in Iowa (12 years)."
Business Conditions-Business continued to boom and in May the Herald sounded a note of triumph as follows: Strangers are contin- ually coming among us seeking locations, and real estate is changing hands rapidly. The Excelsior, that model boat as her name indi- cates, has just passed up the river with a heavy load of freight and pas- sengers. We understand that over one hundred passengers left the boat at the different river towns in this county, most of whom were in search of locations for farming purposes, and hailed from the Key- stone State. The Excelsior is but one of six or seven first class boats (besides several smaller ones) which run in the upper trade this sea- son, and nearly all come loaded to the guards with freight and pas- sengers, a large proportion of which are prepared to make permanent settlements among us. Our merchants generally have bought much larger stocks than usual; the most of them are just receiving their goods, some are yet absent making their purchases, and one firm, who b't very early, have already ordered and received in store a large addi- tional supply from New York by express. Our villages have thrown off their old garments, (not very old they were, either, but still nearly old enough for some of them to become hide-bound in) and have gone to work in earnest to improve their appearances, not in the way of selling lots at exorbitant prices, but with the trowel, plane, saw, and brush. Many large and permanent buildings are being erected, which would do credit to any town in the northwest. In short, business of all kinds has received an additional impulse approaching one hundred per cent over any former precedent. That which was considered doubtful yesterday proves tenable to-day and requires an increase to-morrow ; and so it will doubtless continue until some great crash in the monetary affairs of the commercial system shall put a check to the wheels of progress for the time being, and which may come next year, or perhaps not in the next ten years, and possibly not even then.
The ever increasing activity is shown by the establishment of a semi-weekly stage between Guttenberg and Garnavillo which was hailed with great delight. The mining interests at Guttenberg were considered of much importance and the prospects were thought to be most promising, as is shown by the following statement: "We are
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informed by Mayor Kriebs that the mines in the bluff directly back of the town are being worked to good advantage, Dr. Lodowick hav- ing raised as much as fifteen hundred pounds of mineral in one day. This is pretty good, with the price of mineral at $25 and $30 per 1,000 Ibs. We are told that this mineral yields 82 per cent of lead. The diggings on Miners Creek are yielding sufficient to pay well for work- ing them. The smelting furnaces are both doing a good business. Mr. Kriebs also informs us that the people of Guttenberg have voted a tax for the purpose of building a large schoolhouse, costing from $2,000 to $3,000 ; proposals for building will be advertised for in a week or two. The diggings on Miners Creek are paying fair wages. We were told by Mr. Holmes, that he had a prospect from which he and a hand were taking out from five to seven hundred pounds a day. We under- stood that Guttenberg corporation scrip brings ninety cents on the dollar, with the prospect of bringing dollar for dollar in a short time. So far as we had opportunity for observing, the mechanics, the labor- ers, the farmers, miners and merchants are prospering, business is flourishing, and every thing gives evidence of a favorable business season.
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