USA > Iowa > Scott County > Davenport > History of Davenport and Scott County Iowa, Volume I > Part 10
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Capt. Clark claimed the honor of being the father of the first white child born in Scott county. This son, David H. Clark, now a resident of Polk county, in this state, was born in Buffalo, the 21st of April, 1834.
For many years the town of Buffalo attracted much attention and bid fair to become a serious rival to Stephenson, then just merging into existence. But Davenport and Rockingham were soon laid off and a ferry being established be- tween Davenport and Stephenson by Mr. LeClaire, travel was directed to that point and the division of the country into counties left Buffalo in no enviable situation. It had been the most prosperous town in this region of country, do- ing a large business with the emigrants to the territory who were then begin- ning to settle up and down the river and along the Cedar valley, furnishing grain and provisions of all kinds to the newcomers. Capt. Clark spent much time in showing emigrants the country and assisting them in making claims, and prob- ably did more toward the early settlement of this country than any other man that ever came into it. He died at Buffalo, October 25, 1839.
To show the prospects of Buffalo as a point of interest at that day we might relate a circumstance that occurred in reference to the value of town lots. After Davenport was laid out, Major Wm. Gordon and some others, proprietors, called on Capt. Clark and offered him an even exchange of forty or sixty lots in
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Davenport for an equal number in Buffalo, but the captain declined, regarding it as a poor offer, as it probably looked to be at that time.
It will be seen by reference to the map of Scott county that it lacks a town- ship in the southwest corner (No. 78, N., R. I, E.) of being square. As it has always been a mystery to many, particularly to the new comer, why this township should have been set off to Muscatine county, while it so naturally belonged to Scott, I will here explain.
In the first territorial legislature which convened at Burlington, in December, 1837, an act was passed creating the boundaries of Scott county, as well as many others. Unfortunately for the well-being of many a town site and village this honorable body had too many speculators in town lots among its members. Dr. Reynolds, then living three miles above Bloomington, now Muscatine, being a mem- ber, had laid off a place called Geneva upon which all his efforts for the county seat were centered. The manner and extent in laying off the counties were of course to decide the destiny of many a town site which had been made espe- cially for the county seat. The object of Dr. Reynolds was to press the upper line of Muscatine county up the river as far as possible so as to make Geneva cen- tral and lessen the chances of Bloomington which was an applicant for favor. The Davenport and Rockingham member, Alex W. McGregor, Esq., knew that if the Scott county line ran too far down the river, Buffalo, then a rival and by far the most populous and important town above Burlington, would stand too great a chance, so that a compromise was entered into and this township was given to Muscatine county which gives to our county its present ill-shaped ap- pearance.
Buffalo with all her just claims was sacrificed by placing her in the lower end of the county. Dr. Reynolds' grand scheme was frustrated, for Blooming- ton got the county seat for Muscatine county and Davenport and Rockingham "doubled teams" on Buffalo, got the county seat and then fought for choice of location, as will be noticed under its proper head. This was the killing stroke to Buffalo. Davenport ultimately received all the benefits derived from the trick- ery and corruption of legislative enactments while Geneva, Montpelier, Salem, Freeport, Mouth of Pine and some half dozen more towns that were laid out along the Mississippi river from Muscatine island to Davenport "went under" carrying with them all their visionary schemes for greatness and power.
Buffalo township has more timber land than any other in the county. There are thousands of acres now covered with a growth that has arisen since the first settlement that will cut from twenty to fifty cords of wood to the acre. It is es- timated that there is five times as much timber in Buffalo township as there was at the time of the first settlement in 1834, a fact showing how easily timber may be produced, if cared for, and the annual fires kept out of the woodlands.
There is another very important item to appear in the history of this town- ship. Coal was first discovered here in 1834 and as early as 1835 and 1836 was dug and sold to steamboats at the mouth of Bowling's creek which empties into the Mississippi about half way between Buffalo and Rockingham. The first bank opened was about half a mile up this creek, and was worked to consider- able extent by Dr. A. C. Donaldson who settled in 1837 near its mouth. Still higher up this creek, some three miles, Benjamin Wright and Capt. E. Murray,
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from Zanesville, Ohio, opened a bank in 1838 and furnished coal to Davenport and Rockingham for 15 cents per bushel, and from that day to this mines have been opened and worked in almost every part of the township until at the present time more than twenty-five coal mines are open and ready for work. The most ex- tensive now in operation are near Buffalo and belong to Capt. W. L. Clark & Co., who are getting out about 1,000 bushels per day. They are preparing to lay a rail track to the river and when completed the company will be able to deliver on the bank or in barges from 2,500 to 4,000 bushels per day. Their road will accommodate many other banks now open and that will be opened along the track. The coal now obtained is far superior to that formerly dug and is said to be a better article for making steam and for other purposes, giving off more flame and igniting very readily. Experienced steamboat men who have examined this coal and used it say that 1,000 bushels of it will go further and make more steam than 1,200 bushels of the Rock river coal.
Capt. W. L. Clark, son of the original proprietor of Buffalo, is now a resi- dent of Davenport, but holds large interests of lands and coal banks in this county. The very lands claimed by his father in 1832 soon after the Black Hawk war are still in the possession of Capt. W. L. Clark.
James M. Bowling from Virginia, now a resident of Davenport, settled in Buffalo township the 4th of July, 1835, at the mouth of Bowling's creek. He purchased the "claim" of one Orange Babbett, the quitclaim deed to which has recently been presented to the State Historical society by Mr. Bowling. This property now belongs to Capt. Leroy Dodge. Mr. Bowling commenced farming in 1835. That fall he went back to Virginia, married and returned in 1836 with his wife and two sisters. In 1837 he had the prospect of a fine crop, but the Indians who still loitered about the country were encamped upon this creek. In June there were some 500 Indians living near him and very troublesome. They set fire to the prairie and burned up the fence surrounding his corn which was at the time six inches high. The Indian horses then ate much of it and he was com- pelled in the heat of summer to cut timber and make rails to enclose his field again ; but notwithstanding all his misfortune, he succeeded in raising a very good crop. The Indians, however, were a constant annoyance to him.
In his absence on one occasion a lot of Indians came to the house and Mrs. Bowling having the door fastened by putting a gimlet over the latch, with his sisters, remained in silence for some time until they pushed out the chinking of the cabin near the door and running in their arms pulled out the gimlet, when Mrs. Bowling and sisters braced themselves against the door and by main strength kept them at bay until weary of the effort to make an entry they left the premises. This is but one instance among many of the trials and hardships to which the first settlers were exposed and through which they passed with patience and toil.
Although Buffalo became almost extinct after her defeat and downfall, yet in 1855 it was resurveyed and mostly purchased by the Germans who settled in and around the town. It has a steam mill, three stores, an Episcopal church organ- ized and one of Disciples or Christians. Both societies worship in the school- house. Buffalo now contains about 500 inhabitants and is one of the most beautiful town sites on the Mississippi river.
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Many of the first settlers of this township are still living at Buffalo enjoying in affluence the sure reward of their early struggles. One among the many who have retired from the more active pursuits of life and now enjoy life's comforts is Capt. Leroy Dodge, who emigrated to Iowa in 1836 from the state of New York. He was for many years a pilot on the Mississippi and then commander of steamboats. Having secured some 400 acres along the river and bluff above Buffalo, he built him a pleasant cottage on the banks of the river and turned his attention to agriculture, principally to stock raising, of which he has some noble specimens. In 1852 he represented Scott county in our state legislature. He was an unflinching democrat and loved the cause of human rights.
Among others who settled at an early day in this township were Joseph and Matthias Mounts, Elias Moore and Andrew W. Campbell. Mr. Campbell was among the most enterprising of the early settlers, having opened a large farm on the bottom land of the river. He sold it to Henry C. Morehead at an early day and removed to the prairie near where the town of Blue Grass now is, where he opened another large farm that now belongs to his heirs. He was elected in February, 1838, one of the county commissioners, it being the first election ever held for officers under the county organization. He also filled other places of responsibility and trust. Being fond of travel and adventure, he frequently took excursions into the interior of Iowa while it was yet in the possession of the Indians, seeming to forget all business cares and enjoy very much the solitude and loveliness of our western wilds. In the spring of 1850 he crossed the plains to California and returned by way of the Isthmus that fall. The following sum- mer he again set forth for California by the overland route in company with a son and a married daughter whose husband was in California. His health had been for years somewhat impaired and his constitution broken. On Green river, in the great basin of the Rocky mountains he sickened and died, and his bones are left to moulder in the cheerless desert with no lasting monument to point the weary pilgrim to his lonely grave.
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CHAPTER III.
ROCKINGHAM TOWNSHIP.
In ascending the river from Buffalo, we next enter upon Rockingham town- ship, the settlement of which began simultaneously with that of LeClaire, Prince- ton and the Groves. This township comprising the bluffs of the Mississippi is somewhat broken, and was formerly covered with heavy timber. The bottom lands that are above overflow are excellent farming lands. The settlement was begun at Rockingham in the fall of 1835. Col. John Sullivan, of Zanesville, O., James and Adrian H. Davenport, Henry W. Higgins and others, purchased the claim that had been made upon the present site of Rockingham which is directly opposite the mouth of Rock river.
Like many other places selected in those days for town sites, Rockingham "possessed many advantages," the most prominent of which was that it would command the trade of Rock river which at that time was supposed to be navigable. It was laid off into lots in the spring of 1836. Its location upon the banks of the Mississippi with Rock river on the opposite side was well drawn and litho- graph maps made and circulated in eastern cities and presented a picture of much beauty. For a while it was a place of considerable importance. Emigrants un- acquainted with the annual overflow of the Mississippi were deceived. To the eye in low water, all was beautiful and many a settler felt happy in finding so delightful a home in the west. But with the rise of the river, its vast sloughs were filled and the embryo city became an island. All communication with the bluff was cut off by a slough running back of the town near the bluffs so deep, it is said, that keelboats had often navigated it with heavy loads. The first overflow was considered an "uncommon occurrence." The second a thing that might "never happen again," and unknown "to the oldest inhabitants."
In March, 1834, Adrian H. Davenport made a claim on Credit island. This island containing nearly 400 acres belongs to Scott county, it being on the Iowa side of the channel of the Mississippi, and lies just above the mouth of Rock river and a little above the town of Rockingham. The early French traders had a trading post on this island and credit was here first given to the Indians, hence the name "Credit island" was given to it. Soon after the settlement of Mr. Davenport upon this island he was joined by his father, Marmaduke Davenport,
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who had been Indian agent at Rock island. This island was purchased from the government by Mr. Davenport and is now owned by Mr. J. H. Jenny of this city. On the 14th of August, 1834, Mr. Davenport had a son born which was the second white male child born in the county, unless one of Levi Chamberlain's of Pleasant Valley be the second. This child of Mr. Davenport's died while young. The Davenports in the selection and location of Rockingham became proprietors and were dry goods and grocery merchants for many years.
In 1850, A. H. Davenport and his father removed to LeClaire where his father died in 1852, much respected for his many social and Christian virtues. Adrian H., his son, while living at Rockingham in 1838 received the appointment from Gov. Lucas of sheriff of Scott and Clinton counties, Clinton being attached to Scott for judicial purposes. The office he retained for twelve years and filled it with great fidelity and acceptance to the people. He was ever a democrat, a man of untiring energy of character and of moral worth. By his removal to Le- Claire in 1850 he not only secured to himself an ample fortune, but probably did more for the building up of that beautiful and enterprising city than any other man in it. He was in 1860 mayor of the city of LeClaire and will be more immediately identified when we come to speak of this part of our county.
James Davenport, his uncle, and the one more particularly interested in the laying out of the town of Rockingham, removed from that place in 1848 to Shulls- burgh, Wisconsin, about fourteen miles from Galena where he has been largely en- gaged in mining. Not only has he been successful in his new employment and se- cured to himself ample stores of this world's goods, but has made himself useful in trying to arrest the progress of intemperance among the miners; employing none but sober and industrious men and by precept and example teaching with humil- ity the pure principles of Christianity before which irreligion and vice have very much diminished.
The Ist of August, 1836, Col. Sullivan returned from Zanesville with his family and some emigrants for settlement. The town on the Ist of May of this year contained two log cabins, one being occupied by A. H. Davenport and his family and the other by Mr. Foster. Mr. Sullivan brought with him a small stock of goods and removing his store from Stephenson where he had been trad- ing for a year, he erected a small building and soon opened a dry goods and gro- cery store. In the fall and winter of 1836 Rockingham contained some thirteen houses and about 100 inhabitants, among whom were Col. Sullivan and family, the Davenport families, Millington and Franklin Easly, Capt. John Coleman and brothers, William Lingo, Messrs. Mountain and Cale, John Willis, S. S. Brown, Henry C. Morehead, David Sullivan, Etheral and J. M. Camp, William White, William Dutro, H. W. Higgins, Cornelius Harold, Richard Harrison, James B. McCoy and E. H. Shepherd. Dr. E. S. Barrows located here in the fall of 1836. He was the first practicing physician located on the Iowa side of the river be- tween Burlington and Dubuque. For many years his practice extended over a large extent of country, embracing Clinton, Cedar and Muscatine counties. In 1843 he removed to Davenport and continued his practice, until a few years since he retired to enjoy in quiet the fruits of his early labor. He has ever stood at the head of his profession and has been president of the "Iowa State Medical society."
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Of the early settlers of Rockingham many are still inhabitants of Scott county. Some have died and many settled in other portions of the state. We should like to speak more in detail of the early trials and difficulties through which they passed ; of their joys and sorrows, of disappointed hopes; and be allowed to fol- low each in his fortunes since the days of old Rockingham, but the limit of this work will not allow. There is, however, one truthful remark that may be writ- ten. No village of the "far west" at that day could boast of a better class of citizens or those of whom she could be more proud than Rockingham, both on account of their high toned moral character, their social and friendly qualities and for their kind and liberal attentions to the sick and to the stranger. Many a wanderer from the home circle has been made to know this, when, laid upon a sick bed in a far western village, he has found the kindly tones and skillful hands of woman, in his sick room, and had at the same time substantial proof that he was not forgotten by the "sterner sex."
A large hotel was erected by the proprietors in 1836 and kept for several years by H. W. Higgins and was one of the best public houses west of the Mississippi river. It is still standing, and is occupied by W. D. Westlake, Esq. Capt. John Coleman still lives in this fallen city, the last of the first settlers. In the spring of 1837 two more dry goods stores were opened, one by the Davenports and one by John S. Sheller & Co.
During the years of 1835, 1836 and 1837 a few settlers made claims back from the river, along under the bluffs and on the edge of the prairie. Among these were David Sullivan, in 1835, immediately back of Rockingham under the bluff. His farm extended to the bottom lands. Rufus Ricker also settled the same year and Rev. Enoch Mead in the winter of 1837. The Hon. James Grant opened a large farm in 1838 upon the edge of the prairie at a little grove called at the time "Pica- yune grove." He enclosed 320 acres, much of which he put under cultivation. He introduced the first blooded stock into the county, if not into the state, and did much for the agricultural interests of the county at that early day. The stock introduced by Judge Grant at that time has been of immense value to our county, the fruits of which may be seen in the herds of many of our best farmers.
Among those who settled on the bluffs and on the edge of the prairie were Lewis Ringlesby, Esq., E. W. H. Winfield, John Wilson, more particularly known as "Wildcat Wilson," from having often, as he said, "whipt his weight in wild cats," and John Friday who broke the first ground upon the bluffs, seven acres for himself and four for Mr. Winfield.
Flour in the winter of 1836 was from $16 to $20 per barrel; corn meal, $1.75 per bushel, and no meat of any kind for sale at any price, except deer, wild turkey and other wild game, of which there was plenty at that day in the timber lands of the bluff.
John W. Brown, Wm. VanTuyl and John Burnsides also made claims or pur- chased them on Ma-ka-tai-me-she-kia-kiah-Sepo, or Black Hawk creek, just above Rockingham in 1836. John Wilson obtained that fall two bushels of seed wheat from John Dunn, who had settled in Allen's Grove which seed he had brought from Ohio. Mr. Winfield sowed the wheat that fall and cut the crop the follow- ing year with a sickle. Such were the beginnings in agriculture by the settlers of 1836.
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At this early day business of all kinds was dull and the inhabitants sought pleasure and pastime in hunting and fishing. Enormous specimens of the finny tribe were taken, and to the newcomer were objects of surprise and curiosity. Catfish were taken weighing from 150 to 175 pounds. I caught a species of the pike called the muskelunge in Sugar creek which empties into Cedar river in June, 1837, that weighed 351/2 pounds and measured 51/2 feet long. The same summer E. W. H. Winfield caught a catfish in the Mississippi at Rockingham that weighed 175 pounds. Having hauled it up in front of the hotel it was soon sur- rounded with spectators. A little daughter of H. W. Higgins having caught a sight of the monster fish through the crowd, as it lay floundering on the ground, and not knowing exactly what it was, or the exact cause of the excitement, started off upon the run, exclaiming, "There, now, if I don't go and tell my Pa. They have killed our old sow." The river and the forest furnished ample sport as well as food for the early settler. Venison was often purchased for 2 or 3 cents per pound. Wild turkeys for 25 to 50 cents, and prairie chickens were so plentiful that they were generally given away by the sportsmen.
In the summer of 1837 a steam saw and flouring mill was erected by Capt. Sullivan, it being the first of the kind built in Scott county, or upon this side of the Mississippi between Burlington and Dubuque. A Methodist church was or- ganized in 1836 and in the fall of 1837 Rev. Enoch Mead gathered a small church of the Presbyterian order. In 1840, the Rev. Zachariah Goldsmith, an Episco- palian, organized a church. 'All congregations worshipped by turns in a small church building, erected by common subscription. It was also used as a school house. In 1838 Rockingham contained forty-five houses including stores and work- shops, and in 1839 there were four dry goods and three grocery stores, beside a drug store and some whiskey shops. Mechanics of nearly all trades had set- tled there, but the financial state of things at that date was so low that but little was done in the way of trade.
Scott county was organized and named after Gen. Winfield Scott, at the ses- sion of the legislature of Wisconsin territory which met at Burlington in De- cember, 1837, The same act provided for holding an election for the county seat on the third Monday of February, 1838. Rockingham and Davenport being the only points to be voted for, the polls were to be opened at the Rockingham house in Rockingham and the Davenport hotel in Davenport, and at the house of E. Parkhurst, in the town of Parkhurst, now LeClaire. This same legislative act also provided for an election to be held two weeks after the county seat elec- tion for choice of county officers, at which last election Rockingham elected her candidates. The commissioners were B. F. Pike, Alfred Carter and A. W. Camp- bell, with E. Cook for county clerk.
The great importance of the county seat election is apparent. The fortunate town in the election was to become important from having the seat of justice. Great preparations were made for a spirited contest. The matter had been before the legislature and an attempt was made to locate it by that body, but a scheme of bribery and corruption among some of its members was brought to light and an act then passed to leave it to the people. The leading men in the contest upon the Rockingham side were Col. Sullivan, the Messrs. Davenport, Dr. E. S. Bar- rows, G. B. Sargent, J. S. Shiller, J. C. Higginson, W. Barrows, H. W. Hig-
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gins, Wm. VanTuyl, O. G. McLain, Fitzpatrick, Phipps, Shepherd and others, besides many that were non-residents of the town who lent their influence and time upon the occasion. Davenport had her LeClaire, Col. Davenport and sons, Judge Mitchell, James McIntosh and brother, D. C. Eldridge, John Owens and a host of others, men of means, talent and influence.
Rockingham in this first election, if conducted on fair principles, had no cause to fear the result. She had no need of resorting to unfair means to gain the election. The southern part of the county at that time was the most densely populated. She could poll more votes than Davenport, beside which the LeClaire township at the head of the rapids took sides with Rockingham, expecting at some future time to effect an alteration in the county lines on the north so as to make LeClaire more central and of course it was policy to vote for the most southern point in the election.
The returns of the election were to be made to Gov. Dodge, of Wisconsin, we then belonging to that territory. The act specified that the place having the largest number of votes should be declared the county seat, and that it should be the duty of the governor upon such return being made to issue his proclamation accordingly. Davenport, well knowing her weakness and want of "material aid," entered into a contract with a man by the name of Bellows from Dubuque to fur- nish voters at so much per head, board, whiskey and lodging to be furnished by the party requiring service.
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