USA > Iowa > Madison County > History of Madison County, Iowa, and its people, Volume I > Part 21
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Early in the fall it was the supreme but oft neglected duty of a settler to burn wide fire guards around the exposed sides of his improvements. These guards were made by first plowing three or four furrows next to the improvements, and another set of furrows several rods on the prairie side. Sometimes the latter furrows were not plowed. Then the first very calm spell that came the whole family, if large, or two or three neighbors, were called on, and the grass outside the inner furrows was set on fire in one place, close to the inner furrows, if no outside furrows were plowed, or if plowed the fire was set further out.
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Each person was supplied with hazel, willow or other small bundles of switches, easy to wield with the two hands. One person would extend the firing line slowly and cautiously, because the wind might prove treacherous and blow quite sud- denly from any direction. When the fire had burned back far enough, it was whipped out with the switches. And thus the work proceeded until the fire guard was finished. Usually, burning fire guards was done some windless evening and often lasted until far into the night.
Besides accidents caused by a sudden rising of the wind, or negligence in whipping out the last spark, once in a while inexperienced settlers would attempt the work alone. Soon after David Cracraft, of Union, a large wheat grower and flouring mill man of his period, came here in 1847 he put up a large amount of fine hay, which was exposed to prairie fires. Ile plowed a fire guard around the stacks and had sent for some neighbors to help burn a strip outside the plowed ground. As was his custom, he got in a hurry, and started a fire at a considerable distance back from the plowed furrow, while a light breeze was blowing toward the hay stacks. As the fire increased in volume, the wind increased in force, as always it does around a prairie fire, and when the blaze reached the furrows, sparks blew across and ignited the hay stacks; Cracraft's neighbors arrived in time to see them all burn. He was a tenderfoot on the prairie but learned his lesson well. He had a lot of stock and was compelled to buy hay until grass time.
In spite of all preparations against prairie fires quite occasionally the guards would be jumped by sparks of flying leaves, grass, or rolling, tumbling weeds. Tumbling weeds were greatly in evidence in those days and were the cause of great danger in times of fire. They grew to great size, several feet in diameter. Before a high wind they would roll many miles, or until they reached timber or some obstruction like a fence. In case of a prairie fire they carried flame a long distance over burned or plowed ground.
Among the great fires in the county was one that came down Coon divide from the northwest about the year 1850. The wind, shifting more northerly as it approached Lee Township, jumped North River at several points between the four corners of Jefferson, Lee, Union and Crawford townships and the mouth of Cedar, burned over the divide to Cedar, jumped that stream and made its way clear to the banks of Middle River in Crawford Township. It swept Coon divide far down toward the Des Moines River and did much destruction to fences, even on Middle River.
These fires were constantly a menace to improvements-until the early 'hos- along the divide south of Middle River, along both sides of Grand River, along the divide between North and Middle rivers and all along Coon divide. The danger rapidly decreased as the prairies began to settle up.
CALIFORNIA TRAILS
The California travel across this county was along four routes or roads during the years 1849, 1850, 1851 and 1852. The route more largely followed was then known as the "North Fort Des Moines road," being the one staked out by the Guyes and their companions while on their way to Des Moines to vote in August, 1846, elsewhere described ; and later a portion of the state road from Des Moines
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to Indiantown in Cass County. This road was followed up to section 16 in Union Township, thence westerly along the dividing ridge of Cedar and North River into Douglas and on to the western portion of the county, where it joined the route west from Winterset in Jackson Township. This route was selected by one Clark of Council Bluffs, who, early in 1849, had passed along posting printed notices giving the advantages of this route, directions to follow and special places where hay and corn were in supply. The next important route followed, entered the county a mile northeast of where St. Charles now stands, passed Joel Clanton's house, crossed the early time ford above the present Clanton bridge, westerly along the old time road on "Hoosier prairie" to old "Buffalo Mills" on Middle River, and up the hollow to Winterset. As to the latter place, there usually was abundant feed for sale. The third route in importance was the dividing ridge road between Middle River on the south side and North River and Cedar on the north side to Winterset, at which point it united with the In- dianola and Knoxville road, continuing westerly along the crest of the divide to Middle River, crossing in Adair County. The fourth barely touched this county along its north line, following the Coon on the south side and on westward, passing around the head of North Branch in Penn Township. There was less feed supply along this route and less water and timber. Thus it was not a favorite route, although a few miles shorter than its competitors. After leaving Madison County the feed supply was slim until the traveler reached Council Bluffs. But as the wagon trains outfitted and started on their way at such time in the spring as to reach this portion of the journey about the time grass was big enough to satisfy the trains, no dry feed was necessary beyond.
People nowadays can have little idea of the magnitude of the overland travel in the years of the gold excitement. Along in the middle of May to the first of June hundreds of teams, usually drawn by two, three or four yoke of oxen cach spring passed along this way bound for the land of gold. In 1850, in one day during the latter part of May, 105 wagons passed through Winterset. Often at the Middle River crossing near the west of the county, over two hundred teams were in camp at one time. The price of corn in 1849 and 1850 was frequently $2 a bushel, and while sometimes it was less, at other times it was whatever the seller chose to ask. Hay sometimes reached as high as $50 per ton. The first two years, however, $20 may be considered to have been an average price. Farmers hauled their surplus corn and hay for miles to the roads where they waited for the expected trains of emigrants. If the trains had been fortunate in laying in a supply on the way the leaders had the best of the situation and "jewed" the farmers down to a reasonable price; if not supplied, the farmers' prices for forage were set to fit the emergency.
This California travel afforded the only market, and a remunerative market. to the farmers during those years. And the best of it was that it gave them gold and silver, the only kind of money the Government would accept for entry of lands.
HORSEBACK RIDING
During the first twenty years of the settlement of the county, country people and most of those even in town moved about in one of three ways-in wagons, on
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horseback, or on foot. If a man and his family were going to meeting, to town or elsewhere, he hitched up a team of horses, if he had one, or else his yoke of oxen. As late as 1800 there have been counted the teams driven to a religious meeting, and oxen were in the majority. Up to 1860, perhaps, there were but three family carriages in the whole county, outside of Winterset, and very few there. Buggies were unknown in the country for use.
During that period with country people the most genteel way of moving around was on horseback. Of course the horses were what are now called "plugs," and worked in harness most of the time. Nor were saddles to be found at every house. Probably not a third of the farmers owned a saddle until after 1860. But nearly every farmer owned at least one horse-about nine out of ten. Riding bareback was so common that one with a saddle was apt to be particularly noticed, that is the saddle was. And if a man got a new saddle it was the talk of the neighborhood and the owner became the cynosure of all eyes; and these were some of the questions put to him: "What did you have to pay for it?" "Where did you get it?" "Does it ride easy?" "Can I use it one day next week to try it, since I have been thinking of buying one myself ?" and a score of other excited and anxious queries. Borrowing saddles was a great custom and cases have been known where a man would walk two miles to borrow a saddle, and carry the saddle home on his back, so he might, for the pride of riding in the "thingumbob," make a horseback trip of but three miles to meeting. Generally the temptation in such cases to fib about the ownership was not overcome by the preacher's sermon. Usually. the borrower modified the statement by saying he was "on a trade" for it and was trying it.
The great ambition of every young woman was to own a side-saddle. Com- monly, they rode bareback and were experts. One with a new side-saddle rode as in a balloon. The difference was observable between the girls who had a new one and she who rode her mother's old saddle-the one with a new saddle care- fully displayed all of it she could, while the one using her mother's old one was equally as careful to conceal the trapping with her riding skirts. For a ragged and faded old side-saddle was far from a thing of beauty.
CHAPTER XXII TRANSPORTATION
EARLY ROADS IN MADISON COUNTY By A. J. Hoisington
The first road petition was considered by the Commissioners' Court of Mad- ison County, October 2, 1849, and the following order made :
"That the petition of Enos Berger and others for a road commencing at the north end of Front street (street next east of the square) in the Town of Win- terset, in Madison County, to run thence on the nearest and best route to the east line of said county in the direction of Fort Des Moines be granted and the fol- lowing gentlemen be appointed viewers: Silas Barns, Esq., Isaac Clanton, John Wilkinson, and that A. D. Jones be appointed surveyor on said road. Road bond of A. D. Jones and S. B. Casebier filed previous the granting of said petition. And that said viewers and surveyor shall meet at the Town of Winterset on the first day of November, 1849, or within ten days thereafter, to commence said view and survey, and proceed otherwise according to law."
The petition was signed by the following persons: E. Berger, William Comp- ton, William Phipps, A. D. Jones, Joshua Casebier, William Stephenson, Leonard Bowman, A. D. Jones (twice signed it), William Gentry, J. K. Evans, James Thornbrugh, John Butler, David D. Henry, J. C. Casebier, William Combs, P. M. Boyles, G. W. McClellan, Samuel B. Casebier, Major Farris, David McCarty, Alfred Rice, S. Barns. (Foregoing is the spelling of their names as signed.)
This effort for a highway went no further-was unpopular, and was antag- onized by those settlers north of Cedar and on North River and northwest of town, who wanted the Des Moines road located along a route making northeast to Brown's Ford on North River (in southeast corner of Jefferson Township) and on by Badger Grove to the fort. Besides, effort was made by those on Clanton Creek and by those located around what came later to be "Buf- falo," on Middle River, southeast of town, to establish the main highway from the east along that route. In those days and for a long period later great effort was made to establish a road and commercial center where St. Charles now is. But A. D. Jones, George McClellan and others then much interested along the divide between Cedar and Middle River, renewed their effort and on January 8, 1850, Jones presented another petition, which was granted, and Asa Mills, D. H. Whited and Samuel B. Casebier were appointed viewers, with Jones as surveyor, to meet and locate the road on the fourth Monday in March, 1850. This effort died "a bornin" and got no further.
Again, July 18, 1850, Enos Berger and others petitioned for a road "forty feet wide, beginning at the east end of Court Avenue, in Winterset, and running
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easterly to the former residence of A. D. Jones (now Tileville), thence following the dividing ridge to the top of the same westerly of the house of G. W. McClel- lan, thence northeasterly to a place west of where the California track passes said house, thence east to a ridge that leads directly to the dividing ridge, thence along said ridge, passing the house of John Carroll, where the California track passes said house, thence the nearest and best route for a road along said dividing ridge to the county line, in the direction of Dudley on the Des Moines River."
This petition was granted also and the following viewers appointed: Charles Wright, William Combs, Irvin Baum, with A. D. Jones, surveyor, who were to meet the first Monday in September, 1850. Finally, October 7. 1850, William Combs and Irvin Baum certified that on September 9th they had "viewed and established" said road and found it "of public utility" and that the distance was twelve miles and twenty chains (1214). Scarcely a foot of the present road is on the line then located but it was the foundation route for the present one. The field book of that survey shows that it ran from the east end of Court Avenue, passed east of Wilhoit's fence, north to T. Spencer's field to the second mile post cast of Bird's Grove, on south of Blair's field, to a "stump south of Deshaser's former residence;" on to the fourth mile tree of white oak, and on from one tree to another to a place described as "last of slough;" on through "thicket timber" to "Carroll's timber," to seventh mile post on prairie in ( now) Crawford Township, on to the east county line. The route may be easiest described as following the top of the dividing ridge from Winterset to the Warren County line. At the county line it tied on to a road extending casterly to Linn Grove, in War- ren County, on North River.
The route of this road was already much traveled and had been used since April 30, 1846, when the Guye colony made the first wagon tracks from Linn Grove to near the county line and on the following day from there to the timber. near the township line between ( now) Union and Crawford townships, north- westerly of the future Patterson, following the crown of the ridge all the way, at which point the colony diverged northwesterly down the long ridge through the timber and crossed to the north side of Cedar Creek. It is not known who drove the first wagon from the point where the Guyes left the ridge up the divide through the timber to near Winterset, but it is probable that it was the large colony which arrived near Winterset a very few days after the Guyes came. and consisted of Philip and McDonough (Thomas) Boyles, John Butler, Asa Mills, Lemuel Thornbrugh and others.
This route became the first one traveled any considerable distance from east to west in Madison County. Its history since the eventful days of April 30 and May 1. 1846, when the Guye colony made the first trace, is a long and important one.
The Commissioners' Court rarely held a session that a petition or petitions for new roads did not appear for the consideration of that body. And. this is not a matter for wonder, as the country was practically in a state of nature, and highways were absolutely necessary-in fact, one of the first requisites to the consummation of settlement. The opening and making of roads was an ex- tremely important matter to the founders and builders of the county, and for that reason petitioners for a road always got a ready and considerate hearing by the commissioners. Among other early roads viewed and laid out in Madison
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County may be mentioned the following, as appears of record in the minutes of the Commissioners' Court :
At the October term, 1850, "the petition of Jesse Young and others, asking for a road commencing at the county line of Madison, east of Joel M. Clanton's farm, running thence the nearest and best route to Winterset, be granted, and the following persons were appointed viewers thereof, to wit : Absolom McKinzie, S. Barns and John Dorrell; and Simmons Rutty, surveyor, all to meet at the house of J. M. Clanton on the first of November, 1850, or within five days thereafter."
January term, 1851. Ordered, "That the road commencing at the east end of Court Avenue in the Town of Winterset, Iowa, and running thence by way of George Mcclellan's and John Carroll's to the east line of the County of Madison be established and made a lawful highway."
April term, 1851. Ordered, "That the petition of Charles Wright and others, calling for a road commencing in the Town of Winterset, Madison County, Iowa, to run thence south 80 rods, thence on the most practicable route to or near Bertholf's Mill, on Middle River, thence on the most practicable route on the south line of the county in the direction of Pisgah, be granted, and that Samuel Peter. J. M. Watson and Silas Barns be appointed viewers, and Simmons Rutty surveyor of said road, who shall meet at Winterset on the first Monday of June, A. D. 1851, or within five days thereafter, and proceed to view and survey said road according to law."
The above are but samples of the legislative work accomplished by the law- making bodies of Madison County during its formative period. To enumerate all the petitions for roads granted and rejected would be a heavy and thankless task, and not at all interesting to the general reader. For these reasons no further space will be given to the subject. .
THE FAMOUS BLUFF ROAD
The most famous of Madison's highways is the Bluffs road, so named, some one will say, because there is not a hill on it. The Bluffs road really got its name from Council Bluffs. In the old day this was the road to Council Bluffs, over which the stage line ran. It used to be called the "Council Bluffs Road." Later they dropped it to "The Bluffs Road," and now it goes by the name of "The Bluff Road."
The Bluff road runs through a country of fine flat farms. The beauty of the country it traverses is apparent to all. The land rolls gently ; the soil, the incom- parable black soil, three or four feet deep, makes the farms unequaled for fer- tility. The Bluff road today is a fine, well graded county highway on which one drives for miles between fine farms. Eight miles out of Winterset you strike the first hill at the old Ham Lee farm. From there on to Middle River the country is broken. The old Bluff road in the '6os angled out of Winterset from the Hawkins place on Court Avenue. where Sam Anderson now lives, southwest across a bit of prairie that remained open for years, because John Leonard owned it, to the Smith place where James Baird now lives. Then, as now, it ran out west, past the Stinson cabin, where Judge Lewis has his work shop. Rube Hanner lived in a log cabin where Fairmount stands. Across the road, where Melllree lives, Josiah Arnold, a fine old Ohio man, built a home and lived there many years.
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The Roberts' home-the old stone house that stands near the city wells-famous for being an underground station for escaping slaves, came next, and then Newt Gordon's farm on top of the little hill. The house is now gone and the orchard cut down. Richard Bruce's farm was next. From the Bruce farm west was open prairie until after the war, the settlers closing in steadily until the road was a continuous lane. The stage line ran over this road to Fontanelle, through Lewis to Council Bluffs. Greenfield was a yellow house. The Bluff road crossed Middle River at Tom Tucker's in Adair County, swinging north to follow the big divide. Tucker drove the stage.
During the settlement of the county after the war the Bluff road was always dotted with covered wagons in trains of sometimes thirty or forty, a dozen. two or three, and singly. One was hardly ever out of sight. The "movers" camped along the road and grazed their stock as they went along. . \ fence was necessary for a farm on the Bluff road in those days, for nearly all the wagons had cattle with them. The settlement of Kansas and Nebraska was going on at the same time and the Bluff road was the main thoroughfare through Southern lowa. At the Hi Smith farm the road branched to Nevin, crossing Middle River at the Wight bridge and going through the present Hebron -then Schwens and later Busby's. Those who crossed the Missouri at Ne- braska City or Brownsville went that way.
The spring at the city wells was the first camping place for the movers. They used to cut the bridge and steal the rails from the fence for their fires. At Baugh Branch and at Wight's many of them camped. The farmers along the road had all come to this country in covered wagons and they gave hundreds of tons of hay, and hundreds of bushels of corn away to the movers. The wikl hay was plenty. All they had to do was to cut it. "Help yourself" was almost an invariable answer to a mover who asked for hay. Tom Roy used to set aside a stack for the "movers."
The first settlers along the Bluff road chung to their farms. There were few changes in many years, but when the land hunger commenced the new comers looked with covetous eyes on the fertile, fat farms. Of the real old settlers along the road Judge Lewis, Jonathan Gordon, and George Tracy alone remain. The Arnokls, Goshorns, Gordons, Beerbowers. Lawsons, Bruces. Foshers, Roys, Rehards, Smiths, Hawks, Perkins, Lees. Grosscups, Georges. Foxes, are all sold out.
BRIDGES
The Cox bridge, in Union Township, marks one of the oklest crossings of North River. In 1868 Cox, whose homestead was just south of the crossing. contracted with the county to put a bridge in. The structure was entirely of wood, but when it was taken down in 1913. to be replaced by a modern steel bridge, the timbers were found to be in a splendid state of preservation.
Eli Cox and his sons, George, John and Alfred, built Madison County quite a number of bridges of the wooden, covered kind. They sawed the lumber at their own mill, and built the framework of solid oak. The piers were of stone quarried near the bridge sites, making them entirely home-made structures. Even the mortar used in the piers was Madison's own product, the sand being
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hauled from the creeks and the lime burned in local kilns. Cox commenced to build bridges in 1864, his first one being placed over North River, on the De Soto road, near Jonathan Cox's farm. All his first bridges were of the uncovered kind, because the board of supervisors of early days had too many bridges to build, and they could not afford the covered ones.
One of the first covered bridges Eli Cox built was the Donahue bridge, over North River, near the eastern line of the county. It stands here today a testi- mony to his honest workmanship. The cover protected the timbers and pre- vented rain from getting into the joints and around nails and bolts. When these old bridges are taken down the timbers are invariably found to be in a good state of preservation.
But the wooden bridges in Madison are fast giving way to steel structures. Modern road traffic demands heavier bridges. The county supervisors refuse to take chances of a bridge going down with threshing outfits and entailing a suit for damages. When a wooden bridge becomes shaky it is condemned and a new steel structure replaces it.
Bridging the streams of Madison County has been an expensive proposition. The bridge fund always has been expended to the penny. North Branch, North River, Middle River. Jones Creek, Clanton, South River and Grand River and their tributaries have many crossings. The demands for good roads and well bridged streams will keep the county bridge fund exhausted for some years to come. In the old days a man was content to get across a stream on any kind of a bridge. The steam threshing outfits now demand a heavy bridge and a man in his heavy motor car, when he hits a county bridge full tilt at forty miles an hour, swears if it gives him a bump or he can feel the slightest tremor.
The new bridge cost $8,024 when it was finished. It ought to last for all time. It has a span of ninety-six feet. A bridge over Steele's Branch, on the Patterson-St. Charles County road, which was finished in the fall of 1913, has a span of sixty feet and cost $4,150. The plans are on file for a new steel bridge over Middle River, on the Greenfield road, that will have a span of 100 feet. County Engineer Hiatt estimates that it can be built for $6,000, because steel is 20 per cent cheaper than when the Cox bridge was built. It may be built in 1915. The county has spent the last four years for bridges as follows :
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