USA > Iowa > Winneshiek County > History of Winneshiek county with biographical sketches of its eminent men > Part 13
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The Methodist Church was built in 1873. This denomination had held services previously in other buildings. To the Rev. Mr. Webb is
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HISTORY OF WINNESHIEK ,COUNTY.
said to belong the honor of being the first minister of this denomination to officiate in the place.
Frankville continued to prosper until the Milwaukee & St. Paul Rail- road cut it off ; then came its decline. The town numbers about 300 inhabitants, has several stores, two churches, an excellent school, and possesses many wealthy and influential citizens-men noted throughout the county for their sterling qualities. Most of these are men who came to the county poor, or comparatively so, but through industry and perseverance have been enabled to accumulate a handsome competency.
CHAPTER XV.
HESPER.
Hesper Township in 1851 -Two Explorers, and their Search for Homes-E. E. Meader-The First Cabins-Opening the First Farm - Official Survey of the Northern Boundary -The Last Civilized Dwelling West of the Mississippi-The First Arrival of Members of the Society of Friends-Russell Taber Builds a Saw Mill-The First Merchant-The Friends Erect the First House of Worship -. The First Hotel-The First School House-A Town Organization Effected --- Hesper's Railroad Schemes -The Indian Scare -The Educational Interests -The Library Association -The Lutheran and Methodist Churches -Hesper's Lodge of Good Templars -Con- clusion.
Previous to 1851, the territory now embraced in Hesper Township was wholly uninhabited and almost unexplored. In February, of that year, two immigrants, in search of a location, left their families at one of the settlements on the Volga, in Clayton County, and set out with the intention of pushing their explorations through Winneshiek and beyond, or until they found a region of country which would satisfy them as a future home, 16
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HISTORY ,OF WINNESHIEK COUNTY.
When they passed through Decorah there were then in the place only three houses (log cabins) occupied by three families-Day, Painter and Morse. Proceeding eight or ten miles to the northwest, they met with a warm welcome, and found lodging at the house of a man named McIntyre, on the very outskirts of the Winneshiek settlements. In those days, when passing travelers were seldom seen, and neighbors few and far between, the loneliness of the pioneer families was often very oppressive, and the arrival of an entire stranger was greeted as warmly as the visit of an intimate friend under other circumstances. The desire for society seems inherent in the human heart, and any one coming to settle on the frontier was sure of a hearty welcome from those already located. There was, for the same reason, a feeling of distrust and antipathy toward land speculators, who would select the choicest tracts and hold them, unimproved, till the labors of actual settlers upon adja- cent tracts had greatly enhanced their value. Kindly as our two ex- plorers were received, their inquiries about land were coolly met, and not very satisfactorily answered, till their entertainers were convinced that they came with a view to actual settlement, and not as speculators. Then a man named Waterman, who was at McIntyre's, told of a scope of country lying to the northward, which he believed would just meet their wishes, and offered to go with them next day to view it, as he was intending to locate a claim in the same vicinity. The offer was gladly accepted. The next morning being very cold, yet with but little snow upon the ground, it was decided to leave the team at McIntyre's and proceed to make the intended explorations on foot. Several other men, including McIntyre and son, joined company with them, making eight in all. After several miles' tramping, they came into the neighborhood of the site where the village of Hesper now stands. An inspection of the surface, soil, timber, water-supply, and general " lay of the land," satisfied the immigrants that this was the place they were looking for, and that further exploration would be superfluous. At that time this portion of the county had not been surveyed (was not yet upon the market) and as the boundary line between Iowa and Minnesota had not. been run, there was some doubt as to whether it lay in the State or the Territory. Our immigrants, therefore, decided to go to the land-office at Dubuque, learn, as far as possible, whether the chosen spot lay within the State of Iowa, and take steps for securing a claim to such lands as they had selected.
One of these men was E. E. Meader, the first permanent settler in Hesper Township, and still one of its honored citizens. He was born
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HİSTORY OF WINNESHIEK COUNTY.
in the State of Maine, in the year 1814, was married to Lydia A. Felker 1836, removed to Southern Indiana in 1837, where he followed the occupation of a carpenter and builder. Having decided to change his location and calling, he started with his family for Iowa in the autumn of 1850, to seek a home and devote himself to the cultivation of the soil, the wonderful fertility of which he had heard so highly praised. In one of the Clayton County settlements he found a temporary stopping place, when, falling in with a Mr. Frazier, from Wisconsin, who was, like him, seeking a new home, they came together in the manner just related, and made their first inspection of the lands upon which they afterward settled.
Visiting the land office after their prospecting tour, they were assured that the locality chosen would fall within the State of Iowa, and so they made immediate preparations to return and begin improvements. Ac- cordingly, in March they came with their teams, encamped in the woods, and prepared building sites as follows : Meader on what after- ward proved to be the southeast quarter of section 10, and almost on the very spot where his present residence stands ; Frazier on the south- west quarter of the same section, the site now occupied by the dwelling of Thomas Truman. They next cut and hauled together logs for build- ing a house on each site, and then were obliged to go eight miles to obtain hands to help put them up. Some weeks previous to this Water- man had come with his family, and encamped on a part of section II, near where Russell Taber's steam mill now stands, and was engaged in making sugar from the sugar-maples in the surrounding woodland. On the occasion of raising the two houses Mrs. Waterman presided over the culinary department, and the simple meal, composed of such mate- rials as were obtainable, and served in a style suited to the circumstances, was eaten with a hearty relish. The occasion was one of general good feeling and social hilarity, and was long remembered as the first gather- ing in Hesper Township of that kind which early settlers in any coun- try know so well how to appreciate. When the company dispersed, there were to be seen standing, the walls of the two pioneer cabins of the neighborhood-the walls simply. The roof and floor were to be an afterwork. In the days following the proprietors cut timber and split out enough clapboards, or " shakes," to roof both buildings, piled them outside the walls, and then started back to the Volga settlements for their families. For some reason, now forgotten, Frazier did not return to his claim till the following autumn, so that the Meader family was obliged to come alone. Late in the evening of the 11th of April, 1851,
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HISTORY OF WINNESHIEK COUNTY.
they reached Ackerson's, about four miles from their destination, where they were persuaded to pass the night. But early next morning, with- out stopping for breakfast, they pushed on to their new home, set out the cook stove beside the unfinished house, and there, in the open air of that chill April morning, Mrs. Meader prepared and set before her hus- band and five children, the first of many thousands of meals which she was destined to serve upon the same spot.
The walls of the house had not even a doorway, and the first pro- ceeding after breakfast was to cut an entrance, and then to put on the roof, for which purpose a supply of nails had been brought in the wagon. By night the family had a shelter overhead, and a loose, tem- porary floor of split boards; but the walls being entirely without chink- ing, and only a blanket hung across the doorway, the first night, which was stormy, with wind, rain and snow, was cheerless enough.
By a dint of hard labor, patient endurance, and the advance of the season, they were, in the course of a few weeks, settled in comparative comfort.
The next most pressing matter was to get in a crop of corn before the season for planting was past. To Mr. Meader farming was a new oc- cupation, and especially such farming as was adapted to the location and circumstances in which he found himself placed. He succeeded, how- ever, in obtaining help to break ten acres of prairie, and proceeded to plant it in a manner familiar to all early settlers of the prairies, but strange enough to persons from the older states, and to very many of the present residents of Iowa. The tough prairie sod, thinly sliced and turned over by the breaking plow, afforded no loose soil for covering the corn if planted in the ordinary way; so the expedient was adopted of cutting a hole with an axe or crowbar, dropping in the seed, and pressing the cut together with the foot or by another blow with the implement used. This was the usual process of planting " sod corn," and often a fair crop was realized, with no further labor except gather- ing, the toughness of the sod precluding the possibility of any cultiva- tion. In this way was planted the first ten acres of corn in the new settlement. But when it was all in, and had laid long enough to be up and growing, a new difficulty appeared, and one the possibility of which our newly-fledged farmer had not anticipated-the seed was bad, and had rotted in the ground. Nothing remained to be done but attempt to procure seed that would grow, and then re-plant the field. After much inquiry and trouble a sufficient quantity of an inferior variety of corn was found which seemed to have retained its vitality, and the re-
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HISTORY OF WINNESHIEK COUNTY.
planting was accomplished by the 6th day of June. Although the season was quite unfavorable, a comparatively fair crop was gathered. amply sufficient for house supply, with a small surplus for sale. A small crop of buckwheat was also raised that first season.
The same summer a man named Larsen, a native of Norway, located a claim on the southwest quarter of section 9, and nearly the same time a Mr. Brown located on the southeast quarter of the same section. Frazier arriving with his family in the fall, so the extreme isolation of the first few months was in a great measure relieved.
The following spring marked an epoch of interest in the history of this locality, as well as in that of the State, for then it was that the official survey of the northern boundary was entered upon. For several days the Engineer Corps made the little settlement their headquarters while engaged with their duties in the vicinity, and added to its material prosperity, as well as enlivened it socially during their stay. Stopping again as they returned from the final completion of their labors, they reported that the house of one Nichols, erected that spring five miles west of Hesper, but on the Minnesota side, was the last civilized dwell- ing they fell in with on their route from the Mississippi River to the Big Sioux.
In the summer of 1853 there was quite an influx of settlers, among whom might be mentioned Tristram Allen, a member and minister of the Society of Friends, or Quakers, who, with his family, came from Michigan in August of that year, and bought out Frazier's claim, upon which he settled and lived for almost twenty years, or until a short time before his death, which occurred in 1873.
Two months later several other families of Friends came from some part of Michigan and settled, some of them within the limits of this township, and some just over the line in Minnesota. Thus was begun the nucelus of the Quaker Settlement at Hesper, which has ever since been one of the prominent features of the place. Among those who came at this time was Geo. N. Holway, a native of Massachusetts, but for a time before his coming to Iowa a resident of Michigan. He pur- chased and settled upon the claim located by Larsen, on section 9, where he lived for a number of years, and then removed to Decorah, where he still resides. Also Joseph Gibbon, D. Allan, Ansel Rogers, and Abraham West.
In the spring of 1855 was held the first regularly organized meeting of the Society of Friends in the new settlement, and in the course of the summer a number of families of that persuasion came in from Ver-
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HISTORY OF WINNESHIEK COUNTY.
mont, adding materially to the Quaker element and to the prosperity of the settlement. Among these were Russell Taber and his brothers, who, having purchased the claim originally located by Waterman, began to make preparations for erecting a steam mill. This they got in running order, so as to do sawing, before winter set in. This mill, with its sub- sequent additions and enlargements, still stands on the north side of the village of Hesper.
During the winter a small building was put up, a stock of goods pro- cured, and the first mercantile establishment in the place was opened, by H. H. Whaley, on the corner now occupied by Meader's store.
With opening spring came another influx of immigrants, among them, several families of Friends, from Indiana, and in the course of the sum- mer of 1856, the members of that society erected a meeting house, on the southwest corner of section 10, from which place it was, a year later, removed to a lot within the bounds of the town, then being first laid out.
On the third day of July, 1856, T. N. Wilson arrived with his family from Jackson County, where he had stopped for two years after coming to the State, from the East. Immediately after his arrival he began preparations for erecting a house, which, with subsequent additions and enlargements, is the hotel he now occupies. On the last day of July, the building was so far completed that the family moved into it, and on the third day of August it was first opened for the entertainment of travelers, since which time it has been the principal stopping place for strangers in the town of Hesper.
The following year still more marked advances were made in the way of enterprise and improvement. In April, the first Methodist Quarterly Meeting was held in Wilson's house, and the Rev. Mr. Lease, then quite a young man, was placed upon the charge as minister. In the summer a school house was put up on a lot where the building now stands, but ' no longer used for its original purpose ; it is now known as the " Grange Hall." The first term of school in this house was taught by Edward W. Holway, and at this time a resident of Cresco, in Howard County.
The same summer a blacksmith shop was erected by H. A. Maydale, and several other buildings going up, with quite a demand for building lots, it was decided to lay out a town under the name of Hesper, a con- clusion which, it seems, was not fully entertained previous to this time. Accordingly a survey was made, a plat drawn on the 27th of December, 1857, and recorded on the 25th of February, 1858. From that time forward the place had a definite name and prospect. The township was
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HISTORY OF WINNESHIEK COUNTY.
organized the same year, it having previously been included with Burr Oak, and shortly after,-the exact date of which the writer has been unable to ascertain, the Hesper Postoffice was established. with H. H. Whaley as first Postmaster.
Year by year the little town slowly improved and increased in size and importance; not with the mushroom growth of temporary points of speculation, nor with the great strides of a central trading mart, but with the steady, healthy prosperity of a quiet rural village, which is all it claims to be.
It is true that an occasional railroad scheme has raised anticipations almost to fever heat, and for a time accelerated the common pulse-rate, but these are only what every community are liable to be attacked with at intervals, making a casual disturbance of equilibrium, but in no way interfering with the general steady course of events.
Though peopled so largely with the peace-loving Quakers, this town- ship furnished a full quota of soldiers during the war of the rebellion, and at the time of the Indian outbreak in Minnesota, the settlement was thrown into a state of great anxiety and fear on account of its exposed and comparatively defenseless situation. Couriers were dispatched in every direction, men and arms collected, and preparations made for as stubborn a defense as possible, in case the worst should come. But the mounted scouts sent out to scour the country to the northwest, after a ride of many miles, and an absence of several days, came back reporting no signs of Indians in all the country through which they had passed. In the course of a few weeks the excitement died away without any sanguinary result, but it is still fresh in the memory of those who passed through it, as a season of general trepidation, panic and distress.
The educational interests of the place early began to assume a degree of no small importance. Scholars from other parts of the county and adjoining portions of Minnesota, flocked to the public school of Hesper, and their progress in learning gave it a deservedly high reputation. In the course of time the old schoolhouse was found to be too small to ac- commodate the pupils. and the present elegant and well arranged build- ing was erected, in 1872.
In March, 1868, a library association was formed, under the name of " The Philomatheans," and a small, but well-assorted circulating library was collected, which has done much toward cultivating the literary taste of those who have taken advantage of the privileges offered to the mem- bers of the association, 'The number of volumes now in the library is two hundred,
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HISTORY OF WINNESHIEK COUNTY.
Hesper has likewise, always shown an unusual interest in the cause of morality and religion. The membership of the society of Friends at this place being yearly increased by immigration from the New England States, Michigan, Ohio and Indiana, it became necessary to build a larger place of worship, which was accordingly done in the summer of 1870. About the same time, or perhaps a year earlier, there being a heavy Norwegian population in the surrounding country, and these be- ing mostly of the " Established Church " of their own country, they erected a Lutheran church just on the outskirts of the village southward. It is a neat frame building, with a bell-tower, which contains a good, clear-toned bell. On occasions of the regular church service, the audience room is always crowded with an eager and attentive congrega- tion.
In 1873 there was a Methodist Church built, in a pleasant location in the western part of town. This elegant structure, surmounted by a graceful spire, adds much to the attractive appearance of the village, besides affording a comfortable and pleasant place for the religious ser- vices of the society.
In the cause of temperance Hesper has always maintained a high rank. No drinking saloon has ever been able to secure a foothold in the place, and the only attempt ever made to establish one was nipped in the bud by the friends of temperance, who were thoroughly aroused by the threatened invasion of their community by a foe so destructive of morality and good order. In the year 1861, a lodge of Good Templars was organized and kept in active working order for some time, but it was, at length, suffered to go down. In February, 1876, a reorganiza- tion was effected, and now the Hesper Lodge is one of the largest and most active in the state, with an enrollment of 125 members in good standing.
Having no railroads or other means of public transportation, Hesper has never figured very largely as a point for trade. The interest in this direction being at present limited to two dry goods and general variety stores, and one drug store. In manufactures and mechanic arts it ranks rather higher, there being a steam saw mill and general wood-work establishment, with a small foundry and machine shop in connection with it; three wagon and sleigh shops, three blacksmith shops, three boot and shoe shops, one for harness making, one tailor shop, one mil- linery establishment, and a photograph gallery.
To the visitor the village presents a remarkably attractive appearance, on account of the almost universal air of neatness and comfort exhibited
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HISTORY OF WINNESHIEK COUNTY.
by the dwelling houses and and their surroundings, as well as on account of the elevated location, from which a charming view is obtained over much of the surrounding country, and especially to the northward.
And, finally, the people of Hesper, though regretting the inconvenience of their isolation from railroads, seem generally satisfied that their town- ship is second to none in the county, in the possession of those elements which go to make a community healthy, self-supporting, law-abiding, comfortable, intelligent and happy.
CHAPTER XVI.
OSSIAN.
The Value of Thoroughfares-Ossian Thirty Years Ago-Its Founders -An Account of its Earliest Settlers -A Western Tavern -- The Original Town Site-The Second Addition-Ossian the Rendezvous of Counterfeiters-The Establishment of a Postoffice-Its First Post- master-The First Merchant-The First School House and First Teacher -The Assessments of Early Days-First Death -First Doctor -Newspaper History -Hoisting the Stars and Stripes -A New Era in the History of the Place -The Churches -Ossian's Importance and Prospective Future.
In the infancy of Winneshiek County, as with all new countries, the location and opening of each thoroughfare for travel was hailed with as much joy as was the prospects of a railroad in latter times. The per- manent location of a thoroughfare insured the prosperity of those living in its immediate vicinity, for over these roads must come the sea of immigration flooding the land. Over them must be transported the products of the country and the necessaries of life needed by the settlers -no luxuries were in demand-and as a natural effect following the cause, along the margin of these thoroughfares, at convenient distances, small towns, or the germ of such, sprang into existence, serving as a center at which the commercial interests of the country could be trans- acted. No wonder then that the location of roads were much striven 17
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HISTORY OF WINNESHIEK COUNTY.
for, and especially those of that character known as State roads. State roads were located by the State, and were considered permanent, while county roads would be re-located or discontinued. The location of a State road ever furnished an object of contention, and was regarded covet- ously by all the settlers that it would be likely to affect in the remotest degree; consequently the reason of the strife between the settlers on Washington Prairie and those along the Military Road, in trying to secure to themselves the location of the State road, spoken of to some extent in the history of Frankville.
Although the settlers along the Military Road failed in securing the (their) cherished object-the location of the State road past their doors -yet they possessed one thing to furnish them consolation-they had the Military Road, over which, at this time, the principal travel was done.
In 1850 there came to the county a man who was impressed with the beauty and fertility of a certain section located on the margin of the old Military Road. It was on an undulating prairie, in which Nature had seemed to vie with herself in spreading upon it her store of wealth with a lavish hand. The land was dressed in the tints of summer, and the occasional leafy groves breaking the monotony of the aspect lent en- chantment to the scene. The land smiled with radiance, decked as it was in the adornments of nature. As the man contemplated this pano- rama his heart filled with admiration, which could find expres- sion only in rapture over the scene spread out before him. Here at last was the place that he had long sought and had found not. Like Archimedes, he felt like exclaiming aloud, Eureka! Here, on the margin of the old Military Road, he would settle and make for him- self a home. The question whether to pitch his tent here or not was not debatable. To behold the location was to decide in its favor.
This man, like others who settled near the main thoroughfares in a new country, had his dreams of the future, and saw stored away in his castles built on air the reward which he surely hoped to reap at a distant day. Feeding on his bright hopes of the future, here on this wild, beautiful and isolated spot he willingly became an exile for the time being. He believed his location suitable for a large town, and fondly hoped, as settlers came in and the country matured, that others would be of like opinion, and gather about him, actuated with the same desire -the building of a town which he hoped would eventually become the capital of the county. At this time, for a distance of five miles around
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