USA > Iowa > Iowa County > The history of Iowa County, Iowa, containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c. > Part 33
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The old dragoon trail from Iowa City to Fort Des Moines originally followed the general course of Bear Creek, and for many months after the establishment of Fort Des Moines there was not a single human habitation
255
HISTORY OF IOWA COUNTY.
after leaving the timber on Bear Creek, west of Marengo, until reaching the Fort on the Des Moines, a distance of ninety miles.
· Little Bear Creek-This stream must not be confounded with a stream of the same name in Poweshiek county, for be it known, there are Little Bear creeks many. The stream of that name in Poweshiek county, like its namesake in Iowa county, is a tributary of Big Bear Creek, and empties into it from the south. The small streams which constitute the head waters of that streams, rise east and north of Grinnell. The course of the stream is to a point very near the center of the county, where it courses to the north and empties into Big Bear Creek some four or five miles from the east line of the county. The Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railway follows the valley of this stream, from its junction with Big Bear Creek a distance of some twelve or fifteen miles westward. The length of the creek is from twenty to twenty-five miles.
Little Bear Creek of Iowa county is of less consequence. It rises near the south line of Hartford township in section 32, and flows in a north- eastern direction until it empties into Big Bear Creek in section 4, Sum- ner township about four miles miles southwest of Marengo. Little Bear Creek was a favorite location of early settlers as there were some excellent groves of detached timber skirting its banks. The length of this stream is about eight miles.
Honey Creek-This is another popular name for streams in Iowa, and Iowa county does not enjoy a monopoly. Many small streams were thus named from the fact that swarms of wild bees and much honey were found by the early settlers in the timber which grew along their streams. The stream of Iowa county known by that name enters the county and flows in a northwest direction through the township of that name, emptying in the Iowa River in section 12, about ten miles above Marengo. Originally there was a dense growth of timber extending from a point two miles north of this stream southward toward Bear Creek, a distance of some seven or eight miles. This was also a favorite location for the early settlers and at the head of this grove, at a very early day, was begun the settlement which afterward developed into the town of Koszta.
North English River-This stream rises south of Grinnell, and flows in a southeastern direction, leaving Poweshiek county in section 24, town- ship 79, range 13. There were, originally, numerous valuable groves of timber along the course of this stream, the most important of which was Harklerode's Grove, named thus in honor of William Harklerode, who first settled in that region of country. Following the irregular course of the river in that county, it has a length of from twenty-five to thirty miles. It enters Iowa county at the west border of Lincoln township about midway, and its general course is south of east for a distance of about twenty miles where it leaves the county at the southwest corner of Greene township. At a point about two miles from the west line of the county was originally the beginning of an extensive grove which followed the general course of the river and extended a distance of twelve miles. The timber of this grove aided much in the early settlement of that part of the county and the set- tlement which was early begun at the south extremety of this timber at length resulted in the town of Millersburg. This stream has two tributaries in the county flowing from the south, they are Middle English and Deep rivers. The last mentioned stream rises in Poweshiek county about four miles northwest of Montezuma, and flows in a southeastern direction until
256
HISTORY OF IOWA COUNTY.
it enters Iowa county, where it turns northward and empties into North English river about two and a half miles from the west county line. Mid- dle English, so named because it is between North English and South Eng- lish Rivers, is a stream of considerable importance, but not so much as formerly. In the early settlement of the county there was an abundance of timber along its banks which afforded the best quality of material for the building of fences and houses.
Old Man's Creek-Though not a large stream this creek posesses more historical importance than any other in the county. It was near a grove which skirts Old Man's Creek that the first settlement in Iowa county was made.
Other Streams-Beside the streams already mentioned there are numer- ous other small streams, some of which have been deemed worthy of a name, and others which are nameless. Among the former may be men- tioned Gritter Creek, Deep Creek and Devil's Run, all in the south part of the county and tributary to the North English River. Clear Creek is in Iowa township and leaves the county without mingling its waters with those of any other stream. The streams are numerous in the north and south parts of the county, the "Divide," or middle portion being almost destitute of living water.
As before remarked, there is not a county in the State where the streams are more numerous, or more generally distributed. The streams flow in a like direction, as if for a like purpose-that of watering and refreshing and beautifying the country, and making it one of the most favored and goodly regions which the sun shines upon. Many years, and possibly ages, ago, they digged their winding channels and nutured a growth of forest trees, from which the pioneer might construct his rude cabin. After years and years of waiting, the white man came and found the country ready for his abode. It should be the abode of happiness and contentment, but we fear that too often from the valleys and the hills go up murmurings and com- plainings, instead of what would be more appropriate-the voice of un- ceasing gratitude and praise.
TIMBER.
The first settlements of the county were invariably made in the timber or contiguous thereto. The early settlers so chose both as a matter of necessity and convenience. The presence of timber aided materially in bringing about an early settlement, and it aided in two ways: first, the county had to depend on emigration from the older settled States of the East for its population, and especially Ohio and Indiana. These States originally were almost covered with dense forests, and farms were made by clearing off certain portions of the timber. Almost every farm there, after it became thoroughly improved, still retained a certain tract of timber commonly known as "the woods." The woods is generally regarded as the most important part of the farm, and the averge farmer regarded it as in- dispensable. When he emigrated West, the great objection to the Iowa country was the scarcity of timber, and he did not suppose that it would be possible to open up a farm on the bleak prairie. To live in a region devoid of the familiar sight of timber seemed unendurable, and the aver- age Ohio and Indiana emigrant could not entertain the idea of founding a home far away from the familiar sight of forest trees. Then again, the
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N & Holbrook
259
HISTORY OF IOWA COUNTY.
idea entertained by the early emigrants to Iowa, that timber was a neces- sity, was not simply theoretically ethical. The early settler had to have a house to live in, fuel for cooking and heating purposes, and fences to enclose his claim. At that time there were no railroads whereby lumber could be transported from the pineries. No coal mine had yet been opened, and few, if any, had been discovered. Timber was an absolute necessity, with- out which personal existance, as well as material improvement, was an im- possibility. No wonder that a gentleman from the East, who in early times came to the prairie region of Iowa on a prospecting tour with a view of permanent location, returned home in disgust and embodied his views of the country in the following rhyme:
"Oh! lonesome, windy, grassy place, Where buffalo and snakes prevail; The first with dreadful looking face, The last with dreadful sounding tail! I'd rather live on camel hump, And be a Yankee Doodle beggar, Than where I never see a stump, And shake to death with fever'n ager."
The pioneers were in the main descendants of the hardy backwoodsmen of the East when that was a new country. When farms were opened in that country a large belt of timber was invariably reserved from which the farmer could draw his supply of logs for lumber and fence rails for fencing, and fuel for heating and cooking purposes. Even to the present time a farm without this accompanying patch of timber is exceedingly rare in those countries.
Having from their youth up become accustomed to the familiar sight of timber, there is no wonder that the early immigrants were dissatisfied, de- prived as they were of the familiar sight of timber and shut off from the familiar sound of the wind passing through the branches of the oaks.
Then, again, timber was an actual necessity to the early settler. In this day of railroads, herd laws, cheap lumber and cheap fuel, it is easy enough to open a farm and build up a comfortable home away out on the prairie, far from the sight of timber. But not so under the circumstances sur- rounding the first settlers. There was no way of shipping lumber from the markets of the East, coal mines were unknown, and before a parcel of land could be cultivated it was necessary to fence it. In order to settle the prairie countries it was necessary to have railroads, and in order to have railroads it was necessary that at least a portion of the country should be settled. Hence the most important resource in the development of this Western country was the belts of timber which skirted the streams; and the settlers who first hewed out homes in the timber, while at present not the most enterprising and progressive, were nevertheless an essential factor in the solution of the problem.
Along either side of the various streams which flow across the county were originally belts of timber; at certain places, generally near the mouths of the smaller tributaries, the belt of timber widened out thus forming a grove, or what was frequently called a point, and at these points or groves were the first settlements made ;. here were the first beginnings of civiliza- tion; here began to operate those forces which have made the wilderness a fruitful place and caused the desert to blossom as the rose.
17
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HISTORY OF IOWA COUNTY.
Much of this primeval forest has been removed for the building of houses and construction of fences; other portions, and probably the larger part, have been ruthlessly and improvidently destroyed. This destruction of timber has been more than compensated by the planting of artificial groves and there is now in the county more timber than at any other time in its past history.
Among the most abundant of all trees originally found was the black walnut, so highly prized in all countries for manufacturing purposes. Tim- ber of this kind was very plentiful and of good quality originally, but the high prices paid for it presented itself as a temptation to destroy it, which the people, frequently in straightened circumstances could not resist. Red, white and black oak are still very plentiful, although they have for many years been extensively used as fuel. Crab apple, elm, maple, ash, cotton- wood and wild cherry are also found. The best timber in the State is to be found in this county.
Detached groves, both natural and artificial, are found at many places throughout the county, which are not only ornamental, in that they vary the monotony of the prairie, but likewise very useful in that they have a very important bearing on the climate. It is a fact fully demonstrated by the best of authority that climate varies with the physiognomy of a country.
CLIMATE.
· The climate is what is generally termed a healthy one, subject however to frequent and sudden changes from heat to cold. The winters, however, are as a general thing uniform, although there seems to have been very marked modification in the climate during the past few years, resulting, doubtless, from the changes which have taken place in the physognomy of the country.
At one time it was asserted with much confidence that the climate of the Mississippi Valley was warmer that that of the Atlantic States in the same latitude, but this idea has long since been exploded by observations which have been made in both regions.
From Blodgett's Climatology of the United States we learn that the " early distinctions between the Atlantic States and the Mississippi Valley have been quite dropped, as the progress of observation has shown them to be practically the same, or to differ only in unimportant particulars. It is difficult to designate any important fact entitling them to any separate classification; they are both alike subject to great extremes; they both have strongly marked continental features at some seasons and decided tropical features at others, and these influence the whole district similarly, without showing any line of separation. At a distance from the Gulf of Mexico to remove the local effect, the same peculiarities appear which belong to Fort Snelling; Montreal as well as to Albany, Baltimore and Richmond."
As this county is nearly on the same parallel as central New York it is fair to presume that the climate is nearly identical, provided the above be true, yet observation shows that there is a perceptible tendency to extremes as we go further west, owing to the lakes and prairies, probably, and shows that the spring and summer are decidedly warmer, and the winters colder here than in New York. From the open country, the great sweep of the winds and the force of the sun, the malaria arising from the rich prairie
261
HISTORY OF IOWA COUNTY.
lands in counteracted and dispelled so that the climate here is as healthy as in any portion of the known world.
March and November are essentially winter months, as the mean temper- ature rises but little, if any, above the freezing point. The hottest days occur some years in July, and in other years they occur in August. Obser- vations made during the period of twenty years show that the hottest day of the year has ranged from June 22d to August 31st. During that period the hottest day of the year occurred twice in June, nine times in July and nine times in August. The coldest days occur some years in December and in other years in January, while observation has established the fact that not unfrequently the coldest day occurs in February. During a period of twenty years, extending from 1850 to 1870, the coldest day occurred seven times during the month of February, nine times during the month of January, and four times during December. The coldest day came earliest during the year 1851, when it occurred on the 16th of December, and it came latest in 1868, when it was the 10th of February. The days upon which the temperature most closely approximates the mean annual temper- ature occur in April and October. During a period of twenty years they occurred in no other months, except in 1866, when the day most nearly ap- proximating mean annual temperature occurred November 2d.
During a period of thirty-one years, extending from 1839 to 1870 the latest appearance of frost has ranged from April 5, to May 26, and its earliest appearance has ranged from September 2 to October 23. This is true of all the years except 1863, when there was frost every month of the year, the latest frost occuring August 25, and the earliest August 29. During those thirty-one years the latest frost occurred twenty times in April, twenty times in May and one time in August; the earliest frost occurred nineteen times in September, twenty-one times in October and one time in August. It will thus be seen that with the exception of the year 1863, when there was frost every month in the year, there was no frost during the months of June, July and August. Heavy frosts of such severity as to destroy fruit seldom occur later than April 15; even during the year 1863, when there was frost every month, there was none of sufficient severity to damage any- thing after that date.
With regard to rain-fall Prof. Parvin, who is the best authority in the State, says: "The array of facts presented will, it is hoped, prove to be of much interest to the residents of the State of Iowa and the Mississippi Valley, and also to dwellers upon the seaboard by furnishing a datum whereby a comparison may be made as to the temperature, amount of rain- fall, causes thereof and also their distribution throughout the seasons of the year. Eastern meteorologists have been greatly surprised at the amount of precipitation of vapor in the valley of the Mississippi, overlooking the fact that the rain-winds are from the northeast, and here they are from the southwest. The amount of precipitation has not diminished since the first settlement of the country, and probably will not as the area covered by timber has not decreased with the settlement of the State, and it is not likely to in the future; on the contrary is increasing, and is likely to in- crease with the growth of the settlements in age and extent. The peculiari- ties of our soil and climate are such that the past decades have demon- strated that our State can endure an extreme of droughtor rain with as little or less loss than any other cultivated region of our country."
The largest rain-fall during any one year since the settlement of the
262
HISTORY OF IOWA COUNTY.
country was in 1851 when it amounted to 74.40 inches; the least was in 1854 when it was only 23.35 inches, August was the month of greatest rain-fall and January the least.
The following table shows the amount of rain for each year during the twenty-one years from 1848 to 1870:
. 26.29 inches.
1848
.59.27
66
1849
49.06
1850
74.49
1851
59.49
1852
45.78
1853.
23.35
1854
28.38
"
1855
38.17
66
1856
39.52
1857
51.28
66
1858
32.65
66
1859
25.10
66
1860
47.89
66
1861
44.78
1862
. 33.75
1863.
51.57
1864
45.34
1865
43.37
1866
42.18
1867.
46.00
1868
47.56
1869
Observations have gone to show that a large proportion of the rain which falls in this locality is accompanied by southwestern winds. Twenty per cent of the rainy days were occasioned by north northeast winds; eighteen per cent by east southeast winds; forty per cent by south south- west winds and nineteen per cent by west northwest winds; or, to sum up, sixty-two per cent of the rains occur in connection with winds from a west- erly course. The greatest rain-fall in a given length of time occurred in August, 1851, between the hours of ten o'clock F. M. of the tenth and three o'clock A. M. of the eleventh a period of four hours during which time 10.71 inches fell. The wind both days was from the northeast. The great- est snow-fall was on the 21st day of December, 1848, when 20.50 inches fell; the next largest snow-fall was on December the 28th, 1863 when the amount was 15.10 inches in twelve hours.
The winter of 1848 will never be forgotten by the early settlers. The snow commenced early in November, before the ground had become frozen, covering the earth with a heavy coat of white, and continued until the unprecedented snow-fall of December 21, before alluded to, which was the most fearful one ever witnessed in the county. The snow continued at a depth of over three feet until the following February. Often there were heavy driving storms, and after a few days cessation followed others of such driving force as to render it impossible for the settlers to venture out or to get from place to place without danger of being lost or frozen to death.
263
HISTORY OF IOWA COUNTY.
There being yet comparatively few settlers in the county, and not a great deal of marketing to be done or foreign trade to be transacted, travel was not sufficient to keep the roads open or form a beaten track in any direc- tion. If any one found it necessary to venture out any distance from home the driving winds filled up his tracks almost as fast as he made them, so that he was unable to find the same track upon returning.
. The inhabitants of the pioneer cabins were completely snow-bound all winter, never venturing out except in cases of absolute necessity, and then it was at the peril of their lives, or at least of frosted ears and toes, espe- cially if they had any great distance to go. It afforded unparalleled oppor- tunity for enjoying home life in the case of those who were fortunately fa- vored with the necessary comforts, but to those who were not thus favored it was a terrible winter.
It is said that it was no unusual thing to make several attempts to get through the snow-drifts, by those who were on account of pressing want driven to make the attempt.
This was probably the only winter since the first settlement of the county that the snow was so deep and the cold so severe as to occasion want and suffering of a general character.
The year 1863 was a peculiar cold one throughout. As before remarked, frost occurred every month of the year, and in order to be comfortable it was necessary to keep up a fire occasionally each month, July and August not excepted.
Persons who have been in the county quite a number of years say that it is very seldom that the frost injures the corn crop, it being a characteristic of the climate that when the spring is late the fall is either quite hot or lengthened so as to fully mature the crop. At one time it was supposed that fruit could not be successfully raised in this section. This is probably true with some varieties of fruit, particularly the peach. The mean time for late frosts is May 4, and the mean time for the flowering of fruit trees is May 5, and the peach being a very delicate tree, the buds are liable to be destroyed by the late frosts, even though the body of the tree survives the rigors of the winter. With regard to apples and all kinds of small fruit the experience of many years has gone to establish the fact that this region has no equal in the United States.
PRAIRIES.
Prairie is the prevailing characteristic of the State; though the prairies are not so large as in Illinois, nevertheless Iowa is emphatic- ally a prairie State. Prairies are less numerous and of less extent in Iowa county than in any of the counties to the north and west. The land is more broken and timber more abundant than in Poweshiek, Washington, Tama and Benton, nevertheless prairie land may be said to be the prevail- ing characteristic. The soil will compare favorably with the best prairies of Illinois, and there are none in which the soil is of inferior quality. On nearly all of the divides between the rivers and running streams are found large tracts of beautiful, rolling prairie lands, well drained, easily culti- vated, highly productive and conveniently located to water, timber, mills and markets. The character of the soil in these prairies is such that good crops are raised even during very wet and very dry seasons. The soil is light and porous, so that ten hours of bright sunshine will dry the road3
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HISTORY OF IOWA COUNTY.
after a heavy rain, and fit the plowed field to be cultivated. The same pe- culiarity of soil which enables crops to withstand much moisture and thrive during a very wet season, also enables them to endure prolonged drouths -- the soil being very porous is capable of absorbing a large amount of water during the rainy season, and when the drouth sets in the forces of nature bring back to the surface the surplus moisture from the subterraneous store-houses with as much ease as the water in the first place was absorbed. This is not the case with that quality of soil commonly known as hard-pan; the subsoil not being porous, only a small quantity of water is absorbed, after which it gathers on the surface in pools and is then carried away by the process of evaporation; drouth sets in, and as soon as the moisture is exhausted from the surface soil, plants wither and die.
GEOLOGY.
The geological characteristics of the county are varied and interesting. In this progressive age, and the advanced stage of scientific research, the intelligent people of Iowa county will not fail to be interested by a some- what elaborate dissertation upon the subject of local geology as applied to the formation of their own lands, the constituents of their own soil, and the comparisons and contrasts which will be made with other and adjoining counties. In discussing this subject we draw not only upon facts of our own observation, but avail ourselves of the best authority at our com- mand.
· By reference to the best and most recent work on the geology of Iowa it will be seen that Iowa county is partly in the Devonian strata and partly in the Subcarboniferous. A line drawn from the northwestern corner of Hartford township to a point a little west of the southeast corner of the county would very nearly mark the boundary between these two forma- tions. The porportion is as one to two, one-third being Subcarboniferous and two-thirds Devonian.
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