Fergus' directory of the city of Chicago, 1839, Part 6

Author: Fergus, Robert, 1815-1897, comp
Publication date: 1876
Publisher: Chicago, Fergus printing company
Number of Pages: 88


USA > Illinois > Cook County > Chicago > Fergus' directory of the city of Chicago, 1839 > Part 6


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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A country so recent as this cannot be presumed to afford very abundant materials for history. The incidents, however, connected with the rise and progress of the city, the causes which first gave it an impulse, and the works of public and domestic improvement - upon which its future prosperity depend-together with such events as transpired upon the spot at an early day, may, perhaps, furnish a narrative not altogether unin- teresting, and not inconsistent with our present purpose. For a western settlement, Chicago can claim no inconsiderable degree of antiquity. In regard to its earlier history, however, very little can be affirmed with any degree of certainty. The original proprietors and first inhabitants of the region were, of course, the aborigines. The description of the first appearance of the vicinity, by some of its earliest explorers, leads to the belief that they were here from a very early period ; that this was then, and from time immemorial had been, the site of an Indian village. Maj. Long, among others, mentions the number and apparent antiquity of the trails centrcing here as evidence of the truth of this position. It is to be regretted that so little can be ascertained with certainty of the live-


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and fortunes of the various tribes which, at different times, flourished on the spot. The melancholy truth that they have passed away from their ancient dwelling-places constitutes about all we know of them. Those wild races of primitive men have been swept away by the onward march ·of civilization. Their rude wigwams and bark canoes have given place to the princely dwellings and the stately ships of another and a different class of beings. Chieftain and warrior are gone. It is only occasionally that a miserable remnant find their way back from their new homes in the more distant west to witness the transformation which is going on in this land of their forefathers. Their visits are becoming less and less frequent. Each year witnesses so many changes that soon they will cease to recognize in the scene any semblance of its former self. All will soon be changed-save only the beating of the waves on the shore of the lake, over which man can exercise no control. The Illinois, the Shawnees, and the Pottawatomies will be no more. They may survive for a time beyond the father of waters, or on the shores of the Pacific, but fate seems to have decreed that, ultimately, the whole race are to become extinct.


The French were the original discoverers and settlers of the west. As . early as the latter part of the sixteenth century, while the English Colonies were yet clinging to the shores of the Atlantic, almost two hundred years :ago, their voyages and expeditions to this region commenced. In a few years they discovered, and, to some extent, settled, the whole vast region from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico-a distance of more than 3000 miles. Their undertaking, at that early day, was one of no little difficulty and danger. It was, nevertheless, commenced with a spirit, and carried on with a degree of perseverance and sagacity, unexampled in the history. · of adventure. The limits of the present sketch will not permit us to give the details of these expeditions. It would be unpardonable, however, to pass over in silence the exploits of those brave and self-devoted men, through whose exertions the resources and capabilities of the west were


first made known. It is to be feared that they have failed to receive, . at the hands of posterity, the reward to which their achievements entitle them ; that, while we have been lavish of praise upon the discoverers of . other portions of our country, we have failed to pay suitable tribute to the memory of these first pioneers in the region we inhabit-these pilgrim fathers of the west. If to penetrate thousands of miles into the heart -of a continent, bidding adieu for months to the comforts of home, braving hunger and thirst and the savage, can be said to command our admiration and gratitude, then these men have distinguished claims upon us who are now reaping the fruits of all their toils and sufferings. The earliest of these expeditions, as well as the most distinguished, were those of Marquette and LaSalle. The former occurred in the year 1673, and resulted in the discovery of the Mississippi-the original object and design of the · expedition. To this expedition is probably to be ascribed the honor of paying the first visit to Chicago, it being the prevailing opinion that it passed through here on its return to Canada, ascending the Illinois River and crossing to Michigan. Perrot, by some writers, is believed to have been here a few years earlier. The story of Marquette, who voluntarily remained among the Illinois Indians, and found at last a solitary grave on the eastern shore of Michigan, at the mouth of a river bearing his name, is familiar to all.


With the expedition of LaSalle, in 1680, Chicago cannot be so clearly identified. This expedition, however, was productive of more important · consequences to the west, generally, than the preceding one. The Mis- sissippi was navigated to its month ; forts, at favorable points, erected ;


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the shores of the great Lakes thoroughly explored, and permanent set- tlements, at several points, commenced. The expeditions which succeeded those of Marquette and LaSalle were of minor importance, being princi- pally designed to sustain the colonies already planted, and to prosecute the traffic which had previously been entered into with the natives. Although no positive testimony exists on the subject, it is highly probable that Chicago was frequently visited by the French during their passage- to and from the west. Having once been here, they must ever after have appreciated the advantages of the situation, both in a commercial and military point of view, -their sagacity in these matters seklom failed them. In their magnificent scheme of a chain of military posts, connecting Canada and the Gulf of Mexico, Chicago, doubtless, formed an important link, being at the head of the Lakes, and affording so many facilities to attain the interior.


The French Colonies in the west, sustained by emigration, continued from the first to prosper and flourish. Under the general name of Lou- isiana, which they assumed at a later period, they were made the frequent subject of grants from the crown to individuals and companies. AAbout 1717, they are found the property of the celebrated Mississippi Company. which, at the time, gave rise to much speculation throughout Europe. At the close of the French and Indian War, Louisiana was transferred. by treaty, to the British. During the Revolution, the territory comprising the present State of Illinois became, by conquest, the property of Virginia. by which State it was erected into a county, under the name of the County of Illinois.


Virginia ceded it to the General Government at the time of the cession of western lands by the eastern states. In 1800, the present State of Illinois became a part of Indiana Territory, having a population of about 3000. In 1809, it became a Territory by itself, with a population of 12,282, and, in 1818, was admitted into the Union.


On the 3d of August, 1795, at the treaty held by General Wayne, with the Pottawatomies and other tribes at Greenville, the title to six mile- square of territory, at the mouth of Chikajo River, as it is expressed in the treaty, was obtained by the United States. From the language of thi- treaty, it appears that a fort had formerly stood on the land thus ceded. which renders it pretty certain, that the French, who alone could have required anything of the sort, had made a settlement here, many years before. In 1804, Fort Chicago was built on the site of the present Fort.


About the same time, the American Fur Company, having been organized shortly before, established a trading station, under the protection of the Garrison. The little colony thus planted here, some forty years ago, for military and trading purposes, may be regarded as the first attempt to effect a permanent settlement of Chicago. The regular and monotonous life led by this little community, for the first eight years, afforded few incidents worthy of particular notice. In 1812, however, the war broke out with England, the consequences of which were peculiarly disastrous to all the Western settlements, exposed as they were, especially those in Illinois, to the hostility of neighboring tribes of Indians. The causes which conspired to render the Indians hostile at this time, are generally well understood, and may be traced to the machinations of Tecumseh. and other English emissaries, whose influence extended through all the tribes, being felt as far as the remote regions of Lake Superior. Chicago being then an extreme frontier post in this direction, and the country in every direction around it, full of Indians, with a force inadequate to its defence, was considered so much endangered as to require its evacuation ..


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This being resolved upon at Detroit, Capt. J. Heald, the officer in com- mand here at the time, received an order to abandon the Fort, and pro- ceed with the troops to Fort Wayne. This evacuation, on account of the fatal consequences which followed it, and the fact, that some of our present citizens were themselves here, and had friends here at the time, has always been regarded with interest, and may be considered a memora- ble event in the annals of Chicago. The transaction may, therefore, not inappropriately be given somewhat in detail, in this connection. Beside the Garrison, there were several families residing here at the time. Mr. John Kinzie, father of John H. Kinzie, Esq., present Register of the Land Office in this City, occupied a house on the North side of the River, a little East of the present site of the Lake House .* The evacuation took place on the 15th of August, six days after the reception of the order from Gen. Hull, and the day before the disgraceful surrender of Detroit, by that officer, and not after, as some writers have erroneously represented it. In the meantime, a larger body of Indians, mostly of the Pottawato- mie nation, had assembled in the vicinity of the Fort. This has gener- ally been represented as a voluntary movement on the part of the Indians -- but the most correct opinion appears to be, that Capt. Heald collected them himself, requiring of them an escort for the troops, and promising to give them the factory stores, a considerable quantity of which, were on hand at the time. Whether this be the fact, or not, some understanding of the kind undoubtedly existed on the part of the Indians, and the non- fulfillment of the agreement, by Capt. Heald, according to their expecta- tions, may have occasioned the line of conduct which they subsequently adopted, which proved fatal to the lives of 55 of the party, and had well- nigh brought about the destruction of the whole. The stores on hand were composed in patt of a quantity of liquor, and some arms and amu- nition. These it was deemed imprudent to give the Indians-and they were destroyed, a part being thrown into the River, and the residue deposited in a well within the Fort. One of the arms thus disposed of, a brass piece, was found a few years since, by some people employed in dredging the River-another, it is said, remains there to this day. The stores not destroyed were distributed to the Indians. Under these circum- stances, about nine o'clock, on the morning of the 15th of August, the party, composed of 54 regulars, 12 militia, and several families, amount- ing in all to about 70 persons, left the Fort, under the escort of Capt. Wells, and about 30 Miami Indians. Their route lay along the beach of the Lake, between the water on the left, and a succession of sand-hills on the right. They had proceeded about a mile and a half from the Fort, and had attained a point a short distance beyond the present residence of Mr. H. B. Clarke, t and were advancing, unconscious of danger, when Capt. Wells, who it appears, had strayed for some purpose, some distance from the main body, discovered the Indiaus in ambush behind the sand-hills. At the same time, another party was seen interposing in the rear, between them and the Fort, which they had just left. The alarm was immedi- ately given-the dead march struck up, and the troops marched directly up the bank, upon the Indians. The action did not commence, as has generally been represented, by firing, on the part of the Indians. After firing one round, the troops charged, and succeeded in dispersing the Indians in front. But the disparity of numbers was too great. The most determined bravery was displayed by the troops, but it could avail little against the superior force opposed to them, protected by the sand-hills


* East side of Rush Street, from North Water to Michigan Streets.


t South of Sixteenth Street.


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behind which it had entrenched itself. In 15 minutes, nearly the whole party were killed or wounded, and all the baggage in the possession of the enemy. ('apt. Heald drew off his men, into the open prairie, and took possession of a slight elevation, out of reach of the bank, and every other cover. The Indians, after some consultation, made signs for Capt. Heald to approach them. He was met by a Pottawatomie Chief, called Blackbird, who requested him to surrender, promising to spare the lives of the whole party, in case of compliance. After some parley, the terms were agreed to, and the arms delivered up. The survivors were marched back to the Indian encampment, near the Fort, about the spot where State Street now opens to the River, and where the present Market is located. Here, some of the prisoners, those who had been wounded, were murdered in the most shocking manner, by the squaws, who ap- peared to take great delight in exercising their knives and besmearing them in the blood of their unfortunate victims. The small number sur- viving, were distributed, according to the custom of the savages, among the different members of the tribe. Mr. J. Kinzie, Sen., however, whose family, from the first, had been protected by some friendly chiefs, although he was himself engaged in the action, with the troops-succeeded in procuring the release of Capt. Heald and lady, who were sent by him · to St. Joseph, and thence to Mackinaw, whence they made their escape. The remainder of the prisoners were retained, but, it is said, were treated with great kindness, and most of them surrendered to the British, at Detroit, in the following spring. The day following the action, the Indians burnt down the Fort, and dispersed. Such are the leading par- ticulars of this unfortunate action, collected, principally, from an eye-wit- ness of the whole. Capt. Heald has been subjected to much blame, a portion of which was undoubtedly merited. His management of the Indians was injudicious throughout, and the destruction of the stores, to say the least, imprudent. The evacuation, under existing circumstances, was remonstrated against, by Mr. Kinzic and Capt. Wells, both of whom. from long intercourse with the Indians, had become familiar with their character, and were enabled to anticipate and foretell the result which ensued. Capt. Wells had been bred an Indian warrior, and was a brave and skilful soldier. He unfortunately fell early in the action, and was found with, his face blackened, after the same manner of the Savages, when they meet with disappointment.


The Fort was rebuilt in 1817, when it took the name of Fort Dearborn. It was occupied, except at short intervals, by a Garrison, until 1837, when, the Indians having generally left the country, it was finally cvacuated, and has never since been re-occupied as a military post. It remains in much the same condition as in '37, except the pallisades, which were removed, the past spring, and their place supplied by a handsome fence. It has since been occupied by officers and agents in charge of the public works, and their families. Fort Dearborn being almost the only memento of the past, in the midst of so many creations of the day-the necessity of any alteration in its appearance is to be regretted.


Until 1832, and even so late as 1833, little or nothing was done towards making a commencement of the City-it probably not entering into the imagination of any one, previous to that time, that a town of any import- ance was to be here at all, at least, not for many years. In 1832, its appearance and condition was much the same as in 1823, when Major Long, who visited the place that year, describes it "as presenting no cheering prospects, and containing but few huts, inhabited by a miserable race of men, scarcely equal to the Indians, from whom they were descended


.


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-and their log or bark houses as low, filthy, and disgusting, displaying not the least trace of comfort, and as a place of business, affording no inducements to the settler-the whole amount of trade on the Lake, not exceeding the cargoes of five or six schooners, even at the time when the Garrison received its supplies from Mackinaw." This picture, though perhaps too highly colored, presents, in the main, a correct view of Chicago, in 1832. In 1830, there had been a sale of Canal lots, the best bringing only fifty or one hundred dollars, many of which have since become the most valuable in the City. Up to about that time, the present most business, and densely populated part of the City, was fenced, and used by the Garrison, for some purpose of husbandry, or pasturage. So late as '35 or '6, the fires usual on the prairies in the fall, overran the third and fourth wards. There were only some five or six houses, built mostly of logs, and a population of less than one hundred.


One of these houses, formerly the property of the Fur Company, was, until a short time past, occupied by Col. Beaubien. About So rods to the south of that, stood a house, once occupied by Colonel Owens, but since washed away by the Lake. A house, known as " Cobweb Castle," on block No. I, was formerly the abode of Dr. Alexander Wolcott.


The dwelling of Mr. John Kinzie stood east of the Lake House. A log building at the corner of Dearborn and South Water Streets, and the once celebrated tavern of Mr. Mark Beaubien, on the site of the Saugan- ash, generally known as the eagle, together with a building on block 14, and a cabin, occupied by Robinson, the Indian Chief at Wolf Point, con- stituted all the buildings, except the Fort, to be found here in 1832. Sometime this year, however, Robert A. Kinzie built a store at Wolf Point, the first frame building in Chicago. In 1834, several brick build- ings were erected.


The commerce of the place, up to this period, was equally insignificant. In fact, there was none, unless the traffic of the Fur Company, can be dignified with that name. Vessels occasionally ventured here, but so seldom, that the arrival of a schooner was an event of no little moment, and created a sensation throughout the community. The year 1832, may then be regarded as the period from which to date the commencement of the City. Many causes, the Indian war among them, conspired, about this time, to bring Chicago into general notice. What was called the " Western Fever," had begun to rage generally, throughout the country. -Thousands were flocking from the East, to seek homes in the West. The first premonitions of the speculating mania, had manifested them- seives. Eligible sites for towns and cities, were sought out, and eagerly appropriated. The superior advantages of Chicago, in this period of gen- eral enquiry, when enterprise was universally aroused, and incited by the hope of sudden wealth, could not long escape public attention.


The attention of Congress had been called to the importance and necessity of a harbor, and an appropriation was confidently relied upon at the next session. Gen. Winfield Scott, who explored the country during the Indian war, took a lively interest in this work, and addressed a letter in relation to it, which was subsequently laid before Congress. The con- struction of the Illinois and Michigan Canal had also been finally resolved upon by the State legislature. Active measures were being taken to sur- vey the different routes, and to estimate the cost of the various plans pre- pared. Hence the commencement, and completion of this important work at no distant day, might confidently be relied upon. The resources of the State, too, were beginning to be more generally known, and better appreciated. The most alluring reports of the character of the soil-its


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productiveness-the facilities for making farms on our prairies-together with the salubrity of the climate, were circulated far and wide. The most strenuous exertions were made, and with the most signal success, to pro- mote emigration. Enterprise, stimulated by interest, and the hope of gain, was aroused, calling forth and concentrating upon this one object, all the resources and capabilities of the age. Capital was enlisted, and credit and unlimited confidence invoked to its aid. Money, owing to excessive bank, and even private issues, was abundant, and loans to any amount were effected with the greatest ease. The west suddenly became the centre of men's thoughts and wishes, and Chicago, as the most impor- tant point in the west, the goal to which all directed their aspirations.


Such are some of the prominent causes which may be said, at the period referred to, to have given the first impulse to the city. That it grew and prospered as it did, under their operation, will excite no surprise-the result could not well have been otherwise. Its progress, accordingly, until about 1837, has no parallel-it was rapid in the extreme. Buildings went up as if by magic-stores were opened by the hundred, and speedily filled with merchandise; people of every calling and pursuit in life, laborers, mechanics, and professional men, influenced by a common purpose-the hope of success in their several spheres of action-came together here, and entered at once with a zeal and activity into the schemes of improvement projected. The sale of Canal lots, in 1830, has been already mentioned. In 1833, a great Indian payment was held here, near the present site of the Lake House. In the latter part of this year the work on the harbor was commenced, and, during the same year, the present Light-house was erected, the old one having fallen down. In 1835, the population of the place was said to amount to 5500, a computation which probably included transitory persons, a great many of whom were here at the time. The actual population, however, that year, could not have been much less than 3000. In 1836, another sale of Canal lots took place, which was attended with much excitement, and occasioned a large collection of people from distant quarters. The prices were extravagantly high. In 1836, a branch of the State Bank was located here. On the 4th of July, 1836, the cere- mony of breaking the first ground on the Canal took place at Canal Port, * in presence of a large concourse of spectators. During the winter of '36-7 the Act to incorporate the City passed the State Legislature, and, in May succeeding, the first election under the Charter was held, which resulted in the choice of Wm. B. Ogden to the office of Mayor. The growth of commerce, thus far, kept pace with everything else. The community were dependent, during the first few years, entirely upon supplies from abroad; this, together with the great influx of emigration, and the travel which began to set in in this direction, gave employment to a considerable amount of shipping, and steamboats and schooners began to pły regularly between this port and Buffalo.


During this brief but exciting period, the community fortunately found time to devote some attention to things of greater importance than the accumulation of this world's goods. Before or during 1836 as many as six churches had been organized, and suitable buildings provided for their accommodation. These churches, together with such as have since been established, have always received a liberal support, and are now in a flour- ishing condition. Neither was the subject of education wholly neglected. The school section, which, fortunately, lay contiguous to the city, and was proportionately valuable, was disposed of in 1834, and the avails applied


* Now Bridgeport.


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to the support of common schools. Means for the diffusion of general intelligence were also provided.


In IS34, John Calhoun commenced the publication of the Chicago Dem- ocrat, and. in the following year, Thos. O. Davis established the Chicago American, both of which papers still exist-the latter under the name of the Chicago Express, being published daily. These papers, together with the Prairie Farmer (Agricultural), the Western Citizen (Abolition), the North- Western Baptist. (Baptist), and the Better Covenant (Universalist), which have since been started, are ably conducted, and have an extensive circulation.




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