History of Lee County, together with biographical matter, statistics, etc., Part 3

Author: Hill, H.H. (Chicago) pbl
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: Chicago, H.H. Hill
Number of Pages: 910

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March 7, 1868, the high waters with floating ice swept away the free bridge and battered down one pier of the railroad bridge, pre- cipitating two spans into the river. It also washed out 120 feet of the south end of the dam.

At the present writing Rock river is recording another epoch in her historic fame. The tide is rushing down like a mighty ocean, overflowing her banks at a depth, it is claimed, much greater than ever known. The water is fifteen feet above low-water mark, and two feet above the highest, with a velocity in the current of six to seven miles per hour.

The Dixon Telegraph says: "The freshet which now rages down the Rock river is one of the most remarkable ever known. At the present writing (April 20) the water in the river is nearly two feet higher than the highest water mark registered by the oldest inhabit- ant, and the flood is still swelling, and ' Where will it stop?' is the anx- ious inquiry of every one. Water street, below Galena, is covered; and Col. Dement was compelled to move his horses from the stable, and has since commenced moving out of his residence. On the 3

HISTORY OF LEE COUNTY.

north side about twenty families were compelled to leave their houses; the flats below Bridge street are completely inundated, and people are working in boats to secure barns, sheds, and other out buildings from being carried down the river. The water sweeps over the street at the north end of the bridge over two feet deep."

Green River .- This stream rises in the Inlet swamp east of the center of the county, as has been described, and flowing to the southwest through a beautiful grove in Lee Center township, mean- dering on to the south of Amboy city to the great Winnebago swamp, emerging from the county at the southwest corner, from which point it continues on through Bureau and Henry counties to mingle its waters with those of Rock river a few miles east of the city of Rock Island. This stream with its tributaries traverses the entire length of the county, through the Winnebago basin, which begins in the county eastward and gently recedes to the southwest, extending far beyond the boundary of Lee county.

NATURAL HISTORY.

Timber .- The emigrants to this county, as in most of northern Illinois, had not to contend with a universal primeval forest, as in many portions of the west. There were no great forests to hew down with the axe, and by patient toil for a generation to clear up a farm for their sons to inherit; but they found, interspersed over a fertile prairie, groves of timber of almost every variety common to this latitude ; soft and sugar maple ; black walnut and butternut; yellow and white poplar; oak, of white, black and other varieties; of ash we find the white and black varieties; hickory of the princi- ple varieties; lin or basswood, gum, ironwood, cherry, crab-apple, wild plum, thorn, hazel, etc.

Flowers and plants of great variety, embracing the timber and prairie flowers of almost every kind and hue found in the latitude, decorate the grassy prairie, the rocky bluffs and borders of the streams. Among the prairie plants may be mentioned one that has proved an annoyance to many an unsuspecting traveler, is what is commonly known as the "Wild Parsenip." The great poet William C. Bryant says of this plant: "Let me caution all emi- grants to Illinois not to handle too familiarly the 'Wild Parsenip,' as it is commonly called, an umbelliferous plant growing in the moist prairies of this region. I have handled it, and have paid dearly for it, having such a swelled face that I could scarcely see for several days."

Wild Animals .- Of the nobler beasts of the unbroken prairie and wild forest was the buffalo, more properly called bison, cover-

NATURAL HISTORY.

ing the prairies in great herds; while the stately elk, the timid deer, and fleet antelope roamed over the plains and through the groves. The tender, juicy grass of the plain, the cool shades of the groves, and the refreshing waters of the fountains and streams that abound in this country, make it a paradise for the wild grazing herds. But these have retreated before advancing civilization beyond the great waters of the Mississippi, while some of their number have left their bones to bleach on the prairies and mingle with the soil of Lee county, though their kind are now far removed from the reach of the hunter's rifle. Of carniverous beasts were the bear, the prairie and timber wolf, the wild-cat, the lynx, and the panther. The bear and the panther have disappeared from the habitation of the old pioneers

of the county. In addition to these may be mentioned a variety of smaller animals, such as the beaver, the otter, the mink, and the muskrat, of the amphibious animals; the woodchuck, the red and gray fox, the raccoon, the opossum, the skunk, and the brown and white weasel. These are valuable for their fur. The smaller ani- mals are the prairie squirrel, gray and striped, Norway rats, moles, and the invincible mouse.

Fowls .- The native fowls of Lee county embrace almost every species from the bald-eagle down to the humming bird. Among the game fowl may be mentioned the wild swan, goose, brant and duck among the water-fowls that throng the rivers, ponds, and lakes ; the plover, snipe, woodcock, prairie chicken, pheasant, quail, wild pigeon, turtle dove, and meadow lark. To these may be added water-fowls that attract but little attention by the epicurean ; such as the sand-hill crane, and his smaller neighbors; the king fisher, etc. Of forest birds are found the bluejay, the robin, the bluebird, the peewee, and many others usually found in this lati- tude. The Virginia nightingale, commonly called the "redbird," seldom appears in the forests in this vicinity ; and the same may be said of many birds of beautiful plumage and sweet song that are found in the more southern sections of the state. A variety of ra- pacious and vulturous birds are also found ; the bald eagle, the vul- ture, the buzzard, the crow, and a number of different kinds of the hawk species. The crow has appeared in the more modern years of the county's history. It was formerly unknown in this part of the country. The plaintive notes of the whip-poor-will are occasionally heard at nightfall coming from the shady grove.

In an early day the water-fowls visited the waters of Lee county in great numbers. It was one of these annual visitors that awakened the poetical genius of Bryant when he wrote that excellent and clas- sic poem :

HISTORY OF LEE COUNTY.

TO A WATERFOWL.

" Whither, midst falling dew, While glow the heavens with the last steps of day, Far through their rosy depths dost thou pursue Thy solitary way ?

Vainly the fowler's eye Might mark thy distant flight to do thee harm, As, darkly limned upon the crimson sky, Thy figure floats along.

Seek'st thou the plashy brink Of weedy lake, or marge of river wide,

Or where the rocking billows rise and sink On the chafed ocean side ?

There is a power whose care Teaches thy way along that pathless coast- The desert and illimitable air- Lone wandering, but not lost.

All day thy wings have fanned At that far height, the cold, thin atmosphere, Yet stoop not weary, to the welcome land, Though the dark night is near.

And soon that toil shall end ; Soon shalt thou find a summer home and rest, And scream among thy fellows; reeds shall bend Soon o'er thy sheltered nest.

Thou'rt gone, the abyss of heaven Hath swallowed up thy form ; yet on my heart Deeply hath sunk the lesson thou hast given, And shall not soon depart.

He who from zone to zone Guides through the boundless sky thy certain flight, In the long way that I must tread alone Will lead my steps aright."

Pisciculture .- Nature did much in stocking the streams of Lee county with a variety of fish; and some of choice quality. Among the native tribes are found the pike, the pickerel, the several vari- eties of perch; of bass, both rock and black; the cat and buffalo; of suckers are caught the black, the white and red-horse. From the great numbers of these latter which, in an early day, passed up' the rock river in the spring and returned in the fall, the state has received its vulgar name of the Sucker State. The modern im- provements on the river, dams, drainage from manufactories, and the seine, have reduced their number.

GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS.

The geological formations of Lee county are of more than usual interest, both to the mechanic and artist. There is found the finest building rock, and the purest for manufacturing quicklime ; and fossil rock capable of the highest polish, presenting a face variegated and beautiful. The scientist may find almost every formation from the lower silurian system up to the alluvium forming the basis of the fertile soil of this region of country.

In the vicinity of Rock river may be found the St. Peter's sand- stone which out-crops on the river above Grand Detour. We find the Trenton or buff, and blue lime ; Galena limestone, without mineral deposits as at Galena ; Cincinnati group; green and blue shales, with surface deposits ; sands, clays, soils, and gravel beds.

Quarries of the finest building rock are found along the Rock river for miles below and above Dixon. Those below are of lime and sand, and work easily when just removed from the quarry, but harden on exposure to the atmosphere, a quality very desirable in building rock. A blue limestone quarry is situated three miles north of Dixon, west of the river, on Alex. Charter's farm ; and a little below this is Strong's quarry of the same kind of rock. The same is quarried on the east side of the river two miles northeast of Dixon ; and going twelve miles east of Dixon, along the northern border of the county, it crops out at Ashton, where some of the finest quality of building stone is quarried. A quarry is also opened on the farm of R. M. Peile, Reynold township. Lee Center furnishes building stone for the necessary supply of all demands in the central part of the county.

An extensive lime kiln and quarry, known as Dement & De Puy's quarry, are located on the south side of the river above the water-power, and under the College hill.

The geology of Lee county is rich with scientific interest, and abounds in some localities with fossil deposits. Two or three miles northeast of Dixon, and east of Rock river, are quarried the finest specimens of fossil rock, composed of shells of various varieties, and so imbedded together as to form a texture as compact as marble, and capable of as fine a polish.

The geological deposit of primary importance is the quarternary system, which embraces all the superficial material, including gravel, sands, clays, and soils. These are the more recent accumulations, which cover the older formations and lay the foundation and give origin to the soil from which we derive our agricultural resources. "This system may be properly separated into four divisions, to wit : post-tertiary, sands, and clays, drift clay and gravel, loess and allu-

HISTORY OF LEE COUNTY.

vium. The post-tertiary sands occupy the lowest portion in the series, and consist of beds of stratified yellow sand and blue clay of variable thickness, overlaid by a black or chocolate-colored loam soil, containing leaves, branches, and trunks of trees in a good state of preservation. This is an ancient soil which has been covered by the drift deposits, consisting of blue, yellow or brown clays, contain- ing gravel and boulders of various sizes," water-worn fragments of rocks, which have been carried down from the northern shores of the great lakes. Above this we sometimes meet with beds of gravel.

The subsoil over the northern part of the state is predicated upon the drift deposits, but it differs from them essentially in its character, and probably owes its origin to other and more recent causes than the drift agencies. It is generally composed of fine brown clay, which differs in its appearance from the clays of the drift. Hence we may infer that its origin is due to some cause subsequent in its ac- tion to the accumulation of these deposits, and uniform in its effects over formations essentially different in their constituent materials. In the first volume of the report on the Illinois survey Prof. Les- quereux has given the following on the formation of the prairies, which explains the origin of the brown clay and the subsoil above it. He says : "It is evident that the black soil of their surface (the prai- ries), as well as the clayey sub-soil, whatever the thickness of these strata may be, have been formed in place by the agency and growth of a peculiar vegetation. In stagnant water, whenever water is low enough to admit the transmission of light and air of sufficient quan- tity to sustain vegetable life, the bottom is first invaded by confervæ, and especially by characeæ, and a peculiar kind of floating moss (hyp- num aduncum). These plants contain in their tissue a great pro- portion of lime alumina, silica, and even of oxide of iron, the ele- ments of clay. When exposed to atmospheric influence the characeæ become covered with an efflorescence of scarcely carbonized or pure iron. Moreover, this vegetation of the low, stagnant waters feeds a prodigious quantity of small mollusks and infusoria, whose shells and detritus greatly add to the deposits. The final result of the de- composition of the whole matter is that fine clay of the sub-soil of the prairies which is indeed truly impalpable when dried and pul- verized and unmixed with sands."

While it seems entirely satisfactory to recognize the origin of the soil of the prairies from the growth and decay of vegetable matter in shallow ponds and marshes, with the animal remains that abounded in them, there are, however, traces of currents of water and floating ice generally from the north, though it is claimed by good authority

EARLY HISTORY.

that there were counter currents. Boulders are found in different parts of the country, distributed over the surface of the ground, which have been carried down by the moving ice and deposited as strangers on the prairie soil. A good place to study these stones is on the bluffs southeast of Rock river, about one mile above Dixon, and on the east slope of a ravine that drains into that river opposite the island.

Along the bluffs of Rock river may be found the loess deposit, which is described as " a fine mechanical sediment that seems to have accumulated in a quiet lake or other body of fresh water. It is com- posed of brown, buff or ashen gray marley, sands, and clays, and contains numerous land and fresh-water shells of the same species with those inhabiting the land and waters of the adjacent region."

Along the Rock river valley and in the Inlet and Winnebago basin we meet with alluvium, as well as along some of the smaller streams. This consists of sand, clay, and loam, irregularly stratified with greater or less organic matter from the decomposed animal and vegetable substances that are imbedded therein.

The soil of Lee county is fertile, well drained, and adapted to agriculture and stock growing. A number of the citizens of the county are engaged in the latter, and have many broad acres set in clover and blue-grass, which grow most luxuriantly.

EARLY HISTORY.

Prior to the Black Hawk war .- For the early history of the territory now embraced in Lee county we are called back to the early days of Dixon's Ferry. It was the establishment of this en- terprise, as the first improvement of the country, that invited to the banks of Rock river the early pioneer settlement, that laid the foun- dation for the future development of an intelligent and prosperous community, and the building of the city of Dixon. The circum- stances leading to the discovery of this locality have been noticed in their proper relations to the discovery of Lee county.

Prior to the establishment of the ferry at this place, the broad, fertile prairies and the beautiful groves of Lee county were left to the wild beasts and wandering tribes of aborigines. The Galena mines having been opened, there was a rush of emigration to that locality from the southern settlements along the Illinois river, by the Rock Island route. But a Mr. O. W. Kellogg taking the more direct route from Peoria-then Fort Clark-drove his team across the country, in 1827, traversing the wild prairies, fording streams, and camping at night without any shelter save the starry expanse above, which seemed like a vast crystal canopy resting down upon

HISTORY OF LEE COUNTY.

the boundless prairie sea which surrounded him on every side. Reaching Rock river he crossed the stream at a point a few miles above the present site of the city of Dixon, probably at the head of Truman's Island ; passed between what is now known as Polo and Mount Morris ; thence west of West Grove, from which point he turned north to Galena. This prairie path-finder opened the route afterward known as " Kellogg's Trail." This path was soon occu- pied by many fortune seekers, who disregarded the fertile soil over which they were passing, and in which mines of wealth were stored that would be inexhaustible for generations to come. Soon, how- ever, it was discovered that this was not the most direct communi- cation between the lower settlements and the mines, hence in the spring of 1828 John Boles, bearing to the west of Kellogg's Trail, crossed Rock river at the present site of Dixon, not far from the location of the Galena street bridge, possibly a few rods below this point. This path, known as "Bole's Trail," became the com- mon route between the above points.

The crossing of the river prior to the establishment of the ferry was attended with difficulties and perils. The method is described by John K. Robinson in the following manner: "The method of crossing the river with teams before the establishment of a ferry was primitive and simple. On arriving at the place of crossing the wagons were unloaded and the loads carried over in canoes by the Indians. The wagon was then driven with the side to the stream and two wheels lifted into a canoe, then shoved a little out into the river; another canoe received the other two wheels, when the double boat was paddled or poled to the other side. The horses were taken by the bridle and made to swim by the side of the canoe, while the cattle swam loose. Then commenced the lifting out of the wagon and reloading, after which the journey was renewed, and all hands happy that the task of crossing the river was com- pleted."

" Once James P. Dixon, well acquainted with the hardship of crossing, arriving on the banks of the river with the mail wagon called to the Indians for their assistance, but received no answer. Vexed at their delay, and at their arrogance when they did assist, he boldly unchecked his horses so as to give them a chance to swim, and crossed the river with the mail and wagon in safety."

This incident illustrates some of the inconveniences to which the early pioneers were subject. The Indians were not reliable as ferry- men in the manner as above described, being frequently absent, or ill disposed to render immediate assistance; and it was only when the river was low that it could be forded. To relieve the traveling

EARLY HISTORY.

public of this annoyance, and to open an avenue of pecuniary gain, Mr. J. L. Bogardis, of Peoria, attempted the establishment of a ferry at this point some time in 1827, or early in 1828. The enter- prise, however, was a failure ; for the reason that the Indians, who had been accustomed to pilot the strangers across the river in their primitive style, were unwilling that the white man should create a competition in the business over which they held a monopoly ; and therefore they swooped down upon the two workmen, who had the boat for the ferry well on the way, and burning the superstructure they ordered the men back to the place from which they came. The . workmen made a hasty retreat, leaving the red-men in possession of the situation, including a shanty 8×10 feet, which they had erected on the bank of the river.

In the spring of 1828 Josep Ogee, a French Indian half-breed and interpreter, settled here, erected a cabin on the bank of the river, and established the first ferry without molestation from the Indians. Ogee's wife was a Pottawatomie woman, and his relations and customs were allied with their own people, so that he was permitted to abide in peace and conduct his ferry until the spring of 1830, when he sold to John Dixon, whose name the city of Dixon bears to-day. Mr. Dixon had induced Ogee to build the ferry to accom- modate the United States mail, which he was carrying from Peoria to Galena. On the 11th of April Mr. Dixon arrived at the ferry with his family and took charge of the transportation of the travel- ing public across the river. He was regarded by the Indians as the "red-man's friend," whom they called "Na-chusa ;" which is a con- traction of Nadah-churah-sah, and signifies, "head-hair-white ;"' referring to Mr. Dixon's white, flowing locks, which came prema- turely.

The first tavern opened in this vicinity was in 1829, by Isaac Chambers, who built a house for public entertainment in Buffalo Grove, through which he had cut a road for the new trail from the ferry to Galena, two miles distant from the Bole's Trail, which it in- tersected some distance north of the grove. This was the first white family in this part of the country. That the reader may have a just idea of the hardships of those days, and the primitive style in a pioneer tavern, we give an extract below from the pen of John K. Robinson, an eye witness to many of the things of which he writes, who came to the county in 1832, and became conversant with the facts here related :

"From 1829 to 1835 the travel crossing Rock river at the pres- ent site of Dixon was extensive. In early spring the emigration to the lead mines was one perpetual rush-like in character to the gold

HISTORY OF LEE COUNTY.

fever of later years. It swept over Rock river in swarms of from five to twenty teams a day through May and June ; then again there was a mighty stream southward during September and October. Among the many passing through we had of ministers : John Sin- clair, John T. Mitchell, and Erastus Kent, all honored as faithful men and able ministers ; judges : Thomas Ford, afterward governor of Illinois, and Young ; lawyers : Mills and Sheldon ; and black- legs whose name is legion. Accommodations were furnished the travelers as far as the beds, bedding, and table room of the "tavern " would reach. Between the two houses forming the long, one-story portion of the building was a ten or twelve foot hall, with a doorway at either end, facing the north and south. Entering the hall from the south, on the west was the family sitting-room, on the east was the travelers' and hired help's room, each room eighteen feet square. The furniture of the west room consisted of two beds, quite a number of chairs, and a table extending clear across the room, where the meals were taken in cold weather; in warm weather the meals were taken in the hall. The east room contained four beds, one in each corner. When driven to extend this bed-room, the "shake-down " was resorted to, which was of common occurrence. A buffalo robe or bear skin spread on the soft side of the floor, with a blanket or quilt for covering, made a bed good enough for anybody. The floor was often covered in both rooms, and the hall filled to overflowing, with these hastily and easi- ly prepared beds. Floor room was not always of sufficient propor- tion to accommodate the entire party ; the remainder encamped all about the premises, there was room enough out doors for all. Owing to the base of supplies being so distant-Peoria ninety miles, and Galena sixty-five miles-we were often driven to extremi- ties. No weather or bad roads satisfied hunger or stayed travel. Armies, feeling this gnawing, grow restless and insubordinate. Our own family and travelers gave vent to human nature without stint. Few could take in the difficulties of having the whole of a large caravan to feed. The Inlet stream was unbridged and frequently swimming, and in that direction our supplies were often crossed un- der water before they reached us. Our horses were taught swimming and became proficients in that calling. I have been employed a lit- tle below the present road crossing Inlet creek, swimming horses and wagons across one way and back the other, for more than two hours at a time, and once safely swam a four-horse team attached to a wagon loaded with lumber across the stream at the imminent risk of myself and team. Mail stages were three times submerged and ruined in Inlet. Northward, Apple river and both Plumb rivers

EARLY HISTORY.

were alike difficult to cross and much more dangerous, as the cross- ings were bad and the current rapid.

Father Dixon did his trading with the Indians as a matter of necessity. He had lived at Peoria and learned the character of the average trader and determined to deal more justly with the Indians than had been done. He ingratiated himself with them as their ad- viser and friend, strongly urging them to a civilized life and habits of sobriety, diligence and honesty. The store-room in which he traded with the Indians was in the east building (the two-story house), where he sold powder, lead, shot, wampum, tobacco, pipes, shrouding (a coarse cloth), blankets, guns, beads, needles, awls, knives, spears, muskrat and otter traps, calicos, etc., and but one thing at a time. Why? The Indian is a thief always and every- where. In return he had their furs, dressed deer skins, moccasins, and fancy articles made by the female portion of his traders. These found a ready market in Galena, Peoria, and St. Louis.

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History of Lee County, together with biographical matter, statistics, etc., Part 3

Author: Hill, H.H. (Chicago) pbl Publication date: 1881 Publisher: Chicago, H.H. Hill Number of Pages: 910

Author: Hill, H.H. (Chicago) pbl
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: Chicago, H.H. Hill
Number of Pages: 910