USA > Illinois > Winnebago County > Rockford > History of Rockford and Winnebago County, Illinois, from the first settlement in 1834 to the civil war > Part 23
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CHAPTER XLVII.
WORCESTER A. DICKERMAN .- ROCKFORD AS HE SAW IT IN 1844.
W JORCESTER A. DICKERMAN was born in Green county,
New York, September 10, 1820. He came to Rockford in 1844. Upon his arrival he immediately went into partnership with his cousin, G. A. Sanford, under the firm name of W. A. Dickerman &Co., in the dry goods business. Their store was a two-story brick structure on the old Second National Bank corner. After four years they removed to a building which stood on the site of H. H. Waldo's book-store, where the busi- ness was continued for several years. The banking house of Dickerman, Wheeler & Sanford was then founded, which did business in the old building on the southeast corner of State and Main. Mr. Wheeler retired and was succeeded by Dr. R. P. Lane. The firm name was Lane, Sanford & Company, with Mr. Dickerman as the silent partner. This firm did a private banking business until the national banking system was introduced, in 1865. The firm was given the second banking charter, under the name of the Second National Bank.
Upon the retirement of Mr. Dickerman from the banking business, he devoted his attention to insurance. He was one of the incorporators of the Rockford Insurance Company, and from 1884 to the time of his death he served as examiner in the mercantile department. Mr. Dickerman was school commis- sioner from 1847 to 1849. In 1847 he was united in marriage with Miss Caroline Thomas, eldest daughter of Dr. Alden Thomas; and in 1897 they celebrated their golden wedding. Mr. Dickerman was prominent in church work. He was a mem- ber of the First Congregational church until 1849, when the Second church was formed. He became a charter member of the younger society, and in his later years he was familiarly known as its senior deacon. Mr. Dickerman wasfor some time the pur-
236
HISTORY OF ROCKFORD AND WINNEBAGO COUNTY.
chasing agent for Rockford seminary. The highest type of gen- tleman is born; not made. Emerson says: "When private men shall act with vast views, the lustre will be transferred from the actions of kings to those of gentlemen." Mr. Dickerman belonged to this class. He was upright and genial; and prob- ably never made a personal enemy. Full of years and crowned with honor, Mr. Dickerman passed away July 19, 1899. His immediate surviving family are Mrs. Dickerman; Miss Kather- ine, a daughter; and a son, Harry W.
A short time before his death Mr. Dickerman prepared for this volume a chapter of reminiscences of Rockford as he saw it in 1844. It is a pleasant running commentary on men, places and things. An exact reproduction of his reminiscences would necessarily involve a repetition of statements already familiar to the reader; but the remainder of this chapter is substantially as Mr. Dickerman gave it to the author, although it contains a few slight repetitions of facts previously given.
A ride in an open lumber wagon of about three days, com- ing from Chicago with Alonzo Corey, who had been in the city with a load of wheat, brought us to Rockford. Though some- what tiresome, we expected some inconveniences, and accepted them gracefully. To one who had lived among the Catskill mountains, the open prairies had much of interest. Garden Prairie was very attractive. Mr. Corey would say : "Wait until you see the Rock river country." The State road from Belvi- dere was principally through wooded land. As we came to Bela Shaw's place, unexpected improvements appeared : a row of thrifty young poplar trees set in front, a half circle formed inside, with an avenue from that to the dwelling; also an ave- nue from the street to the barn. Mr. Shaw was a justice of the peace; very dignified, guarding well the morals of the commu- nity. He was an excellent specimen of a Canadian English gentleman. From Mr. Shaw's residence to the village, there were about one and a half miles of prairie, which afforded a very extended view in all directions. The high ground ou the east was timber-land, known as "Big Woods." South, west and north the outlook was attractive. Stages in passing were often stopped by request of passengers to take in the beautiful view. There were a few patches of cultivated land and small dwell- îngs, but nothing to obstruct the view in any direction. "And now," says Mr. Corey, "this is the part of the Rock river valley
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FIRST VIEW OF ROCKFORD.
of which I have told you." Truly, I had never seen a prettier picture. I think there were no buildings between Mr. Shaw's home and the village, which was completely shut out of view by the forest, and no church spires to indicate its location. Frink, Walker & Co.'s stage barn near the present watering- trough on Kishwaukee street, was the first building. A two- story building, corner of State and First street, occupied in part by Laomi Peake, a harness-maker, was the best in town. There were then no other shops. Mr. Peake was an energetic, industrious man. A little farther west was the postoffice. Charles H. Spafford was the postmaster. He was a genial, upright, frank-hearted man, well adapted to the business, and very popular. His two brothers, John and Catlin, were on a farm three miles south on the Kishwaukee road. Mr. Spafford's successor under James K. Polk's administration, was Charles I. Horsman, who removed the office to the west side of the river. Willard Wheeler had a store and tin-shop near by. He was a very decided character, sometimes called obstinate; always aiming to head off the West-siders, who were alert and ready to guard their own interests. Near at hand Searle & Worthington had the only drug store in town. Dr. Searle was quite a politician, and the store was a sort of political head- quarters. William Worthington was a quiet man, and highly esteemed. He was fond of music, and particularly the drum.
On the south side of State street Lewis Holmes had a shoe- shop. The Washington Temperance House came next, kept by so-called Judge Blackstone, a popular landlord. Volney Marsh and Thomas D. Robertson, young married people, were among his fashionable boarders. Across East State street, on the corner, was the Rockford House, known as the stage house, kept by Andrew Brown, a very good landlord. Directly north was the New York store, kept by A. H. H. Perkins, a genial, active business man. He was popular, and had a good trade. On the southwest corner of State and Main, now called Madison, was a two-story brick building. It was the largest in town, with the most complete stock of goods, owned and conducted by E. H. Potter. He was a very decided, upright business man, prominent in thechurch and everything that pertained to good citizenship and the prosperity of the village, and particularly East Rockford. He was the father of Mrs. William Lathrop and Commodore E. E. Potter. He built and occupied the brick building now owned by Rev. Mead Holmes as a residence. Mr.
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HISTORY OF ROCKFORD AND WINNEBAGO COUNTY.
Potter had a brother, Herman B. Potter, a farmer, and a man highly esteemed. His dwelling stood on ground now occupied by the First Congregational church. He also had another brother, Joel B. Potter, a farmer, who resided two miles from the village. He was formerly a Presbyterian clergyman. His health had failed, but he was still an active and valuable man in the church. I first knew him as Sunday-school superintendent in the Congregational church. The second story of the Potter store was occupied by Jason Marsh and James M. Wight, the principal law firm in the town. They were public-spirited citi- zens. Mr. Marsh was a bold, daring man, a fluent speaker, ready for any emergency, and well adapted to a new country. He was very active in securing the arrest and conviction of noted bur- glars and horse-thieves in connection with the Mulford robbery. Some of these had been the more dangerous because they were well-known citizens. Their duplicity was shown in their appar- ent anxiety to ferret out horse-thieves, while at the same time they were keeping them fully advised of all proceedings. Mr. Wight did not make a specialty of pleading at the bar; but he was a thorough lawyer, and highly appreciated as a counselor.
The descent from the Potter store to the river was quite steep. The surface of the river was four feet lower before the dam was built. Teamsters with heavy loads called it the hardest hill, from the river bank to Madison street, between Chicago and Rockford. The road was quite sandy, and frequently the teams were doubled in order to make the ascent. On the south side of State, Mrs. Preston, since Mrs. Selden M. Church, had a dwell- ing, and was married there. The crossing of the river was by ferry-boat, which would carry two teams at a time. John Fisher was ferryman, and he was assisted by Asher Miller. Rock river was a clear, beautiful stream at its ordinary stage. Sosmall a portion of the prairies was under cultivation that the soil did not wash into the stream. Its banks sloped gently from the ford, as far up as one could see. There was a small island near the present water-works, and another farther north. Both were nearly submerged by the effect of the dam. A large number of teams crossed the river at the ford. In ordinary stage of water it was from two to two and a half feet deep, all rock bottom. It was quite an attractive sight when several teams followed in succession. In this way they saved the ferriage fee. Many teams were employed in transporting merchandise from Chicago to Galena and points up the Mississippi. On their return trips
239
GOODS PURCHASED IN NEW YORK.
they often bought wheat and sold it in Chicago. At times, when the ice in the river had not become strong enough, and about the season it was breaking up, neither ford, ferry nor row- boats were available, however important one's business might be. Sometimes this condition continued several days. The bridge, when completed after much delay and discouragement, formed a bond of union between the two sides; but it must not be supposed that perfect harmony existed among the leading men in the management of their respective sides. William E. Dunbar, E. H. Potter, Willard Wheeler and Dr. Searle were on the East side; and Charles I. Horsman, G. A. Sanford, John A. Holland, S. M. Church and T. D. Robertson were citizens of the West side. They were representative men, loyal to theinterests of Rockford, but much more loyal to their respective sides. Sharp conflicts were frequent.
On the West side, between the river and Main street, there was one building, a dwelling, on the north side of State. There was none on the south side until reaching the corner of State and Main. A two-story brick building, nearly new, was occupied by G. A. Sanford as a general store. He kept the largest and best stock of goods on the West side. He had about eleven hundred dollars invested, and enjoyed a very good trade. He was a leading man in all new enterprises for village improve- ment on the West side; he was thoroughly interested in whatever contributed to the religious, educational or business prosperity of the village. Mr. Sanford was a man of great energy, and had just completed a term as sheriff of the county. He had many desperate characters to deal with; and nothing but his determined bravery enabled him to succeed. Mr. Sanford was acquainted with every resident in the county, and was held in high esteem. He took in a partner, then twenty-four years of age. The manner of doing business was quite different from the present, and some particulars may be of interest.
The money was in great variety, gold and silver as well as paper. There were no banks, and funds were exchanged as far as possible by such as could buy New York exchange in Chi- cago. Gold, for purchasing goods, was carried in money-belts to New York. Hiram R. Maynard was about to go into busi- ness. He entrusted his money and gave full authority to the junior partner to purchase a general stock. In the aggregate it was quite a sum of money, for the time, to take along. He would have been a good subject for the thieves that infested the
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HISTORY OF ROCKFORD AND WINNEBAGO COUNTY.
country if they had known his treasure. The partner started for New York on Thursday, February 20, 1845. He had a fine, large buffalo-robe to protect him from the weather. The ice in the river was breaking up; but two strong men in a row-boat crossed among floating cakes of ice, and took a mud wagon stage on the East side. The roads were bad, but two nights and a part of three days brought him safely to Chicago on Satur- day. The partner stopped at the American Temperance House, well kept by Brown & Tuttle. This was a newer and better building than the Tremont or Mansion. The Sherman was the only brick hotel in the city, located on its present ground. The partner attended the First Presbyterian church on Sunday. This was a one-story, frame structure. There were nothing but frame churches in Chicago at that time. On Monday he took the stage by way of Michigan City to Detroit ; stage again from Detroit through Canada to Buffalo, traveling night and day; railroad from there to Albany; flat rail; and two days from there to his old home in the Catskill mountains. As the goods could not be shipped until the opening of the Hudson river and the Erie canal, he delayed purchasing until that time. The canal boats were loaded in New York, and towed to Albany. It was considered very good time if goods camefrom New York to Rockford in three weeks. The partner returned by way of the lakes, and arrived in Rockford May 1st, and most of the goods were received during the month. Mr. Maynard's stock also came in good time, and he expressed himself well satisfied with his selection.
The sign of W. A. Dickerman & Co. was seen on the brick store, corner of State and Main. It was about twenty by fifty deep; counter on one side, and the east end was now filled with a well selected stock of dry goods, groceries, crockery, hard- ware, and some drugs. Such a stock was kept as found ready purchasers from all parts of the county. The partners were never happier in a business way than then. Before harvesting, grain was all cut with hand cradles, and raked and bound by hand, which required additional help and greater supplies. I took our team and went to Galena, which then had a large wholesale grocery trade, mainly in the mining region. Steam- ers brought their supplies from New Orleans and St. Louis, and shipped away their lead. I purchased a supply of goods and returned within a week. This purchase gave us a complete stock until fall purchases could be made in New York.
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WEST STATE STREET.
On the Ashton corner was a two-story brick hotel, called the Winnebago House. Thence west there were no buildings on either side of State, until we arrive at the court house, which was the pride of the whole county. The new building was well adapted to the needs of the community. The main building was a court room, with two rooms in rear for jury, and a wing on each side, occupied respectively by the county clerk, recorder, sheriff, circuit clerk, and probate justice of the peace. The last office was held by Selden M. Church, who occupied the west wing. The court room served a good purpose for lectures and public gatherings. It was then the only public hall in town. A brick jail in the rear, near the present location, was really the best in the country, and considered very secure. Samuel C. Fuller, the jailer, was a man well fitted for the time; he was ready for any emergency, and perfectly fearless. He had the Mulford robbers and several desperate horse-thieves in charge at one time. A special guard was kept at night for a time dur- ing their confinement awaiting trial ; also to convey them across the country to the penitentiary after their conviction.
On the McPherson corner, north of the court house, was the residence of Dr. Alden Thomas. He was a natural gentleman, reliable, and active in church and society work. He had nearly retired from medical practice. On the Horsman estate, which retains its trees and natural appearance more than any other place in the city, resided Abiram and Mrs. Morgan. Though rather a small house, their good cheer made it abound in hos- pitality. Their daughter and her husband, Charles I. Horsman, were very genial, and made their home attractive. They were fond of society. Parties were frequent, and guests from Belvi- dere and Freeport were usually in attendance. No party was considered complete without the presence of Mrs. Morgan. Their church home was the First Baptist, where they were gen- erous contributors.
West on State street, this side of Kent's creek, which was then quite a large, beautiful stream, was a cemetery, near Mrs. Richings' residence. But another retired place had been selected in the woods, which it was supposed would not be disturbed for many years; and most of the bodies had been removed there. When the Galena & Chicago Union railroad was built, the company wanted the grounds. The proceeds of that sale purchased the beautiful West side cemetery, and furnished a fund for its improvement. The bodies were again removed,
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HISTORY OF ROCKFORD AND WINNEBAGO COUNTY.
and owners of lots in the former grounds were given lots in the new cemetery.
The first house west of the city limits was occupied by a Scotch shepherd. His sheep often came down and fed in the woods. In hot weather they found a comfortable place under the Congregational church, which was built on a block founda- tion, about two feet off the ground. Nearly every family kept their own cows, as there was a large range for them in which to run. It wassometimes difficult to find them if they did not come home at night. To remedy this perplexity, many put bells on them. Each owner aimed to get one that he could recognize at a distance. It was quite pleasant music when several cows came home together. There were but few enclosed farms between Rockford and Twelve-Mile Grove.
Before going down on Main street we hear the stage-driver's horn. Frink, Walker & Co.'s tri-weekly mail stage is coming in from Galena. See that skilled driver cracking his long whip over his horses! How beautifully he drives down State street ! He is the admiration of all the boys, as he reins up his pranc- ing horses at the Winnebago House. In fact, he attracts every- body. It equaled a special train at this time, for he brings distinguished company : Judge Thomas C. Brown, M. D. John- son, Thomas Drummond and E. B. Washburne, of Galena ; Thomas J. Turner and Martin P. Sweet, of Freeport. They made a specially quick run, less than eighteen hours from Galena. They came to attend circuit court. It was expected then to see several lawyers from other counties attending courts. The best horses and most gorgeous coaches started and came in from the two ends of the line, to and from Rockford. They crossed the river on the ferry-boat to the stage house on the East side, and then to the stage barn, where a fresh relay of horses and another driver were provided; and soon the passengers are moving rapidly toward Chicago. About the same time the stage rushes in from Chicago, and brings the United States mail. Then comes the rush for letters by all who have twenty-five cents to pay the letter postage. In this stage come the lawyers, Allen C. Fuller, James M. Loop and Stephen A. Hurlbut, of Belvidere. The excitement of the arrival and departure of the stages for two days is now over, and we will go down Main street.
The Horsman lot, Porter's corner, is vacant to the court house. Where Daniel Dow's block now stands, he had a small,
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FEVER AND AGUE.
one-story building, a shoe-shop, in which he worked. George Tullock worked for him. They were young men. This shop was a popular resort in the evening to discuss the news of the day. In the autumn, on bright sunny days, fever and ague subjects found the front a pleasant lounging-place. They sat on boxes and joked each other about his pale, sallow face. Their recitals about jarring the house, and shaking themselves out of their boots, either amusing or frightening their families, were quite ridiculous. Fortunately, most of the houses were only one story at that time. Here comes Uncle Stone, an old vet- eran, who lives near the cemetery, on the bank of Kent's creek, by the mill-dam, which is a regular breeder of ague. He has had a hard tussle with it fortwo or three years. "How about the chills this year, Uncle ?" "I had an awful time yesterday ; thought I would shake my teeth out; folks all sick; but I'm goin' ter wear the ager out this year or quit. It comes only once a week now." "Well, you don't look much like conquering such a powerful enemy ; it is more likely that you will be laid away in the cemetery." As a parting salute to Fever and Ague, I say that I never heard a good word spoken for you; though you mingled in good society, you always commenced the fight when we were convalescing from bilious or typhoid fever; and how- ever polite our solicitations, you never left until driven away by good health.
Very near Mr. Dow's shoe-shop was G. A. Sanford's resi- dence, with many additions. This was my home about two years. A part of it may now be seen on the lot south of Keyt's livery stable, near the centre bridge. A house on this lot was the first one occupied as a store by John Platt and G. A. San- ford, and as a dwelling by them and D). D. Alling and their wives. On the Chick House corner was a dwelling house occu- pied by Albert Sanford and Hiram R. Maynard. Both were recently married ; they were men of strict integrity, and were highly esteemed for generous, kindly acts in daily life. Albert was one of those genial, social neighbors who could brighten the dark places of many sick and discouraged ones, and always ready to lend a helping hand. On the east side of Main street, near Loomis' store, was a dwelling occupied by H. W. Loomis, his father and mother. On the Winnebago Bank corner was a dwelling occupied by H. L. Rood, an active man, but not then engaged in business. He was gentlemanly and affable; looked after the strangers, and was ever ready to show them the
244
HISTORY OF ROCKFORD AND WINNEBAGO COUNTY.
village, for which he always predicted a bright future. H. R. Maynard built a one-story store on the Masonic Temple corner, which he occupied a short time. It wasthen used by C. A. Hunt- ington as an academy. The Second Congregational church was organized in this building in 1849. It is now used as a black- smith's shop near Mrs. Brett's block. Near the south corner, now the site of the Brown Building, was a small cabinet-shop. Boston rockers, Windsor chairs, wooden seats, other articles of furniture, and coffins were manufactured here. I do not recol- lect any other buildings on this side of the street until arriving at Ephraim Wyman's bakery. This was located near the ford. It was convenient for emigrants and teamsters to get their supplies, as many camped out, and slept in their wagons at night. This was cash trade, and valuable, as the village pat- ronage was small. Kent's creek was forded somewhat east of Main street. Wyman's bakery was the place where the young men could indulge in the luxury of his home-made beer and ginger-bread, and enjoy his good cheer. We remember him as a generous, whole-souled man. His business naturally attracted the hungry and destitute; and if worthy they were never turned away. His daily life was exemplary, and his counsel good. The records of Winnebago county show that very important trusts were committed to him; and he never proved false to the con- fidence reposed in him. Opportunities were not lacking for him to secure a competence, but he preferred the consciousness of doing right at all times. Like many of the early business men, he came to the close of his life in limited circumstances, and left the inheritance of a good name. After the bridge was built he came up on State street, and started a boarding house.
The log and frame dwelling, supposed to be the first build- ing on the west side of the river, was occupied by Germanicus Kent. When Main street was opened it was removed across the creek. Mr. Kent was associated with Mr. Brinckerhoff. They nominally owned several tracts of land south and west of the village, which have since become very valuable. They were unsuccessful in their enterprises. Mr. Brinckerhoff left town before I came, and Mr. Kent's family removed the year that I arrived. I had but little personal acquaintance with them; but I always heard them spoken of in the highest terms. There was a dwelling where the Emerson stone warehouse now stands, south of the Northwestern railroad track, occupied by Deras- tus Harper, the bridge contractor. On the northeast corner of
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SUNDAY AT THE FERRY.
the same block, was a dwelling owned and occupied by Nathan- iel Wilder, a good blacksmith, from Keene, New Hampshire. He was a genuine New England Yankee. Block seventeen, next north, was covered with a fine growth of oak, with no build- ings. On the corner north of the postoffice was a dwelling built by Mr. Brinckerhoff. It was the first house for a great many new-comers until they could build. Sometimes three families were thus accommodated at the same time. The building still stands on the same ground. The prettiest building on the street was called "The Cottage," and was occupied by John W. Taylor, who came here with his young wife from Albany, New York. They were genteel, excellent people. For a time Mr. Taylor sold goods in a store on the corner of Main and Chest- nut; but it was closed when I came. David D. Alling's carpen- ter's shop, a little north of it, still stands. His dwelling was near it. Mr. Alling was fond of hunting, and very successful. He usually had some dried venison hams hanging in his shop. Mr. Alling built the house for W. A. Dickerman, on North Main street, before that street was opened. The house was one of the best, and almost the first that was covered with pine lum- ber. This house is now owned by William F. Woodruff. A house where the Blaisdell block now stands completed the buildings on South Main street, which was the most thickly settled of any part of the West side.
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