USA > Illinois > Lee County > Recollections of the pioneers of Lee County [Illinois] > Part 37
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The old dwelling referred to stood where the express office is now lo- cated. It was then occupied by Mr. Wynkoop's family. The teacher remembers, as do some of her pupils, a certain sleighride in which her fine new winter bonnet fared badly; they were overturned in a huge drift and it was found at the bottom of the pile. But, though, like truth, it was "crushed to earth," it "rose again," but never to its former glory. Upon another occasion she remembered of going to a party at Gov. Char- ter's with a merry crowd in an ox-wagon, with E. B. Stiles for driver.
L. A. RAMSAY.
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MRS, SARAH JOHNSON.
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Pioneers of Palmyra.
P ALMYRA was originally settled by an adventurous race of pioneers, the great majority being of New York or New England descent. They made long and toilsome journeys from their "storm and rock bound coasts," or the inhospitable soil of their pine-clad hills, to follow the course of empire, that they and their posterity inight enjoy a grand heritage which had been denied them in the land of their nativity. We, their descendants, who are enjoying the fruits of their sacrifices, gladly avail ourselves of the privilege of paying a tribute to their virtues. Not many of this heroic band remain, a few veterans still linger on the stage, but alas! most of them lie beneath "the low, green tent, whose curtain never outward swings."
The first settlement was begun in the spring of 1834, by old Mr. Mor- gan and his sons, Harvey and John, and Benjamin Stewart. who settled in the south side of the grove, known as the Gap. They were followed in the autunin by John H. Page and wife, and Stephen Fellows, with a large family.
The following spring, 1835, new accessions were made. W. W. Bethea, Absalom Fender, with a large family, Capt. Oliver Hubbard, a numerous family of Gastons, Smith Gilbraith, William T. and and Elkanah Bush, Daniel Beardsley, old Mr. Thomas and sons, Enoch and Noah, Daniel O'Brist, Nathan Morehouse, Jeff Harris, Anson Thumniel, brother of Rev. C. B. Thumniel, James Power and sons, Thomas and Jeptha. From 1836 to 1845 large additions were made to the infant settlement, most of the following being weil known families: John C. Oliver, Noah Beede, Abijah Powers, Frederic and Henry Coe, Walter Rogers, Reuben East- wood, William Myers, (afterward known as the "Prophet"), Hiram Parks, W. W. Tilton, Timothy Butler, Hugh Graham, John T. Lawrence, John Lawrence, Abner Moon, John Lord and son, John L., Jarves N., and David Holly, Win. Martin and nephews. James, Jacob and Tyler Martin, Cypt. Jonas M. Johnson and sons, William Y, and Morris, with families, and son-in-law, Eben H. Johnson and wife, Joshua Seavey and sons, Jesse
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and Winthrop, Joshua Marden and son, William, Albert and John Jen- ness, Harvey E. Johnson, Charles and Dana Columbia, Levi Briggs and father, Thomas Monk, Wm. and John Benjamin, Truxton and Lemuel Sweeney, John and Joseph Thompson, John Norris, Win. and Lock wood Harris, Wm. Burger, Wm. Stackpole, Rev. Wm. Gates, James Gates, Wm. Ayers, Thos. Ayers, L. Deyo, E. Deyo, Col. Leman Mason and sons, Sterne, Volney and Rodney, Moses Warner and sons, Henry Moses and George, Major Sterling, Henry and Gustavus Sartorius, Nehemiah, Wm., Fletcher and Morris Hutton, Abram O'brist, Martin Blair, Wesley At- kinson, Thomas and Moses Scallion, John Carley, - Hardin, - Beach, -- Tomlin, Martin Richardson, Benjamin Gates, Mathias Schick, Anton Harms, Charles A. Becker, Henry Miller, Becker Miller, Mr. Curtis, Mar- tin and Wm. Brauer, Wm. Miller, John Morse. Nearly all of the earlier arrivals settled in the groves until they could secure claims from the government and build thereon. They were thus saved many hardships, fuel being close at hand and free to all and shelter afforded from the blasts of winter.
Plenty of wild game abounded, furnishing a supply for the larder. Wild fruit was also in abundance, blackberries, raspberries, gooseberries, grapes, plums, crab-apples, etc. Some families made sugar and syrup by boiling the sap from the fine maple trees for which Sugar Grove is noted. We learn that this custom was in vogue among the Indians when settlers arrived in 1834. Fine springs of water existed in various places, one of the best known being upon Frederic Coe's farm, near Sugar Creek. This was a general resort for many years. A peculiar contrivance, shaped like a harrow, with boards nailed across, wide enough to hold two barrels, and to which a horse was attached, furnished the motive power for the household supply. This was called in local phrase, a "lizard." At a later day, one well is said to have been used by fifteen families, some of them living two miles away.
In those primitive days nearly everybody went to church, and from other motives than display of dress or fine equipage, it is to be presumed.
. People rode in lumber wagons for a long time before anything better could be afforded. Many of the older people had chairs put in for their ac- commodation. A few came in vehicles drawn by oxen, which were chained to trees in the grove near by, during service. A member of one quite prominent family conveyed his household to hear the gospel in a wagon, the wheels of which were sawed out of solid blocks of wood. It is said the creaking and groaning of that vehicle was something unearthly and could be heard a mile or more away. It is safe to assume that one fam- ily, at least, was always on time. ·
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A good deal of sickness prevailed until the country was well settled, fevers and ague being the principal complaints. It was supposed to have been caused by the poisonous vapors arising from the freshly turned prairie sod. All distinction was leveled in those days; the common "brotherhood of man" found its noblest expression during that trying period. Men proved the most devoted of nurses and many a friendship was cemented thereby which endured throughout a life time.
It is hard for us to realize how the country appeared in those early days, when the road front Dixon's Ferry to Gap Grove was a mere trail winding in and out where it was most convenient. A double log house stood in front of John Lord's residence, where the road now runs. One side was occupied by Smith Gilbraith's family. One of the earliest pioneer women, now deceased, remembered seeing a large Indian en- campment, covering the hill where now stands the house upon Miss J. A. Johnson's farm. The red men selected the site on account of a fine spring of water which was a great resort for thirsty travelers for many years.
One day a party of them called at her father's when starting out on a hunting expedition. They first peered in at a window, as was their in- variable custom, and upon entering took an original method to beg for food-their commissary-general producing a roasted cat from an old leathern bag strapped to his waist, over which they had spared them- selves the trouble of dressing. A broad grin was on every face as he went through the pantomime of pointing to the unfortunate feline and from thence to his mouth.
The first public burial ground was upon Capt. Fellows' place, now owned by Miss J. A. Johnson. It was situated on the south side of the road on the hill east of the barn. Some of the early interments were Dan Beardsly in 1839, 'Squire Bethea's wife and three children, Capt. S. Fellows' two daughters (Margaret and Mrs. Allen, who died in 1836), and a Mr. Gee, for whom "Gee's Grove," northeast of Woosung, was named. It was not very much used after the cemetery at Gap Grove was estab- lished. Most of the remains were re-interred at that place, though quite a number found a final rest in the Sugar Grove burying ground less than twenty years ago.
Previous to this, burials were upon private grounds. There were two graves upon the Power's place at Gap Grove. One was upon the hillside east of the barn, of whose tenant even the very memory has perished. The other was that of a stranger who came up from Kentucky on horse- back and died of what was supposed to be Asiatic cholera, the night of
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his arrival. His friends never knew his fate. He was buried in the or- chard near the road. The picket fence surrounding his grave was a fa- miliar landmark for many years.
The cemetery at Gap Grove was located in 1840, the new church being completed that spring. The first interment was that of Capt. Fellows Feb. 8, 1840. It was once a beautiful spot, but now sadly gone to decay. It was partially restored about twenty years since, a new fence being built and undergrowth removed. It is situated midway between two fine groves, commanding a good view of Rock River and grand scenery beyond. A son of one of the pioneers from an eastern state, who visited his parents' graves at an early day at that place, upon his return home wrote an elegy, from which we make the following selection:
Crowning that loveliest pralrie swell With wide old woods on either hand, Are humble graves, where slumber well The earlier Fathers of the land; The bold, adventurous pioneers Who here cast down their weight of ycars.
Men of stout hearts and willing hands. Who years ago "Ho! Westward!" passed,
Fortunes to win in rich, broad lands, These narrow claims laid sure at last And spite of codes, or settlers' law, Their titles hold, without a flaw.
Speak low-tread softly; here repose Heroes, whose praise should never cease. Not leaders of invading foes, But of the mightier hosts of peace, They came; and noblest conquests made With furrowing plow and trenching spade.
Stay-haste not hence, but look abroad, And this vast landscape grasp and scan, - This loveliest of the works of God, The Paradise restored to man- None fairer shall the eye explore, Though thrice our orb be circled o'er,
Look southward, where Rock River flows With shinlng current fresh and free; Through rolllng prairies, whose green rows Rise, like long swells upon the sea; And far beyond, this expanse o'er, Wave groves upon the outer shore.
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Turn northward now, and here behold Where Plenty. ceaseless, pours her horn More bounteous than the dream of old, Palmyra's matchless fields of corn; Stretching away, with scarce a bound, Their tall pikes hem the view around.
And right and left. the green old grove Of stalwart trees, where cool streams run, And herds from unfenced pastures rove, And shelter seek from storm and sun; To these the heart all fondly clings As pilgrims to the desert springs.
And meet it is, these men of toil- The goal of their long journey won- Should slumber in the generous soil, Their tasks of life all nobly done; And in the spot they loved the best, Be gathered to their final rest,
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For Earth, kind mother, loves that band Who dress her flelds, and fence and plow,
And sow and gather from her land, And eat her bread with moistoned brow- The faithful to that first behest, She folds more kindly to her breast.
And none more faithful toiled than him Whose unstained memory I would fain
Wrest from oblivion, cold and dim, With numbers of a worthier strain; But ah, this harp but lethe brings For grief bears heavy on its strings.
Like all true Americans our ancestors soon established schools. Mrs. Hubbard, afterwards the wife of W. W. Tilton, taught young children in her own house at an early day. A private school was also conducted at the Fender place (now owned by James Sneed) by Wm. Y. Johnson.
A private school was also taught at Prairieville in an upper room of a house by Levi Gaston. A rough building, never finished, which stood halfway between Gap Grove and the old Fender homestead, was used at least two winters for school purposes, W. W. Bethea being the pedagogue. But the true historic building was the old log school house, standing on the southwest corner of John H. Page's field (now owned by Mr. Selig.) It was near the forks of the road and surrounded by a locust grove. There the children of the pioneers learned the alphabet and "the three R's," at
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least, before better accommodations were afforded. Many of those pupils have since become distinguished in various walks of life, as ministers of the gospel, educators, physicians, legislators, newspaper writers and man- agers of large business enterprises.
We learn from an old letter, written by a pioneer lady in January, 1845, that the school numbered nearly fifty pupils. Some of the early teachers were the following: Win. Y. Johnson (afterward an Episcopal clergymen), John Norris, Emeline Dedd (afterward his wife), Abigail Norris (a sister who married Noah Thomas), Sarah Badger (a sister of the Amboy Badgers), and Calista Mason, danghter of Col. Leman Mason and subsequently the wife of Morris Johnson. This lady is now living in Colorado and recalls the circumstance of teaching the future president of the Anglo-Swiss Milk Condensing Co., Geo. H. Page, his a-b-c's.
As the country increased in wealth and population frame buildings for school purposes were erected in several districts. The one at Gap Grove stood across the road from Mrs. Hutton's house. The one at Sugar Grove was probably built in 1847. It was located near the site of the present church and school edifice. It was severely plain, unpainted, un- fenced and destitute of shade. Simplicity also reigned within. The high-backed benches, with their ungainly desks, separated by aiseles, were elevated from one to two feet or more above the floor, sloping down an inclined plane, and were marvels of ugliness. Not a map adorned the walls nor was any apparatus furnished, with the exception of a black- board. There was not even a bell to summon the pupils from their play, the teacher having to rapon a window with a book or ferule. In the year 1857-8 a brick church with basement for school purposes was built near the old site.
A phonetic school was taught at Gap Grove in early days by Rev. A. B. Pikard, a Methodist minister from Mt. Morris. His son taught the system at the same time in the little log school house standing near John Lord's residence. The former is living at an advanced age at Canon City, Colorado, and still advocates his hobby. His son is a wealthy capi- talist of Denver.
A famous school which "rose, flourished and fell" was taught by the Judd brothers in the old "Hall" at Gap Grove. It was for advanced stu- dents and was attended by large numbers, many from a distance coming on horseback. The old building is still standing and is one of the land- marks deserving notice, having served in the somewhat varied capacities of a steam saw mill, dwelling, schoolroom, church and ballroom, in addi- tion to all other purposes for which a town hall is generally used. Conld
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the old walls speak they would tell of many scenes of revefry in which two generations participated in the days when their motto was "Let joy be unconfined."
A Campbellite minister once carried on a successful revival there dur- ing the Judd regime. Their converts were quite often taken down to the river at midnight and baptized.
There was much travel during early times, consequently taverns were quite numerous. One was kept by Capt. Fellows at the Peck place and another by John C. Oliver near by at the Hughes farm. Travelers were · rarely refused lodgings at that period, hospitality being accounted one of the cardinal virtues in the pioneer's creed. To use a homely phrase, "the latchstring was always out" to all who stood in need.
The times have sadly degenerated since that era. Prosperity some- times tries people more than adversity. Blacksmith shops were plenty, there being no less than four. James Carley was the pioneer in the busi- ness-his shop standing a little west of Mrs. John Lawrence's residence. He was assisted in his labors by a man named Beach, a slave to strong drink, who belonged to a family of high standing in an eastern city. He was an expert penman, keeping the accounts in a neat manner. John Lord's shop was started in 1841-his son,, John L. Lord, acquiring the property twelve years later. Matthias Selrick's establishment dated from 1843 at Prairieville. Another accommodated the people on the north side of the grove, being operated by Charles Columbia in a log house just across the road from Reuben Eastwood's dwelling (now owned by Theodore Wilson. This was subsequently removed across Sugar Creek to the Columbia farm (the McLary place) and the business carried on by a brother, Dana Columbia, for many years. There were four shoemak- ers, at least, three of whom plied their vocation during the winter months. Flax was raised, prepared and spun for shoe thread and other uses upon the little wheels which are such a curiosity to the rising gen- eration. A grist mill was built upon the Elkhorn and run many years by a Quaker, "Uncle Josey Wilson," as he was generally called. His flour, made from winter wheat, it is said, could not be excelled. Sawmills were established both on the Elkhorn and Sugar creeks.
Usually farmers made three or four trips to Chicago during the year, carrying wheat, pork, etc. Provisions were usually taken along, also horse-feed. "Tripp's Tavern" at Malngin's Grove was a favorite stopping place, being about midway on the journey. Corduroy roads often had to be made over swampy ground by laying down fence-rails. Frequently the sacks of grain had to be conveyed on the backs of the owners across
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the dangerous places. Evidently our forefathers never for once imagined they were having a holiday excursion upon those occasions. The stay in the city was as brief as business would admit: sometimes a load of lum- ber, shingles and other building material would be purchased and brought back or a large supply of groceries laid in, neighbors co-operating for the purpose. If there was room passengers with their trunks would be brought to Dixon It was always a joyful time for the children when they discovered the long-watched-for wagon returning and were later per- mitted to sample the contents of certain packages. Probably no apples they ever tasted afterward had near so fine a flavor as those which came to them from the great city by the lake.
Pioneer days were not all filled with the dull routine of care; singing schools, revival meetings, spelling contests, etc., varied the monotony. Occasionally, many of the "F. F's" would "thread the giddy mazes of the dance" or indulge in the amusement of a charivari. Concerning the latter tradition has handed down the following: A- large proportion of the staid citizens of the little community at Sugar Grove met one even- ing at the house of a prominent resident where a newly married conple was supposed to be staying. The usual "concourse of sweet sounds" was evoked and various pranks played-one leading spitit, who afterward balanced the scales of even-handed justice for many years, being reputed to have climbed the roof and executed a song and dance movement thereon, beginning with "my old daddy had a gun," etc. After two hours of the din the proprietor of the beseiged castle, a brother of the bride, by the way, appeared upon the scene and quietly informed the merry-makers that they had been "barking up the wrong tree," as the bridal party was at least ten miles away, as it afterward proved.
Singing schools were held, both at the Gap and Sugar Grove by a famous teacher, one Durgen. They were numerously attended for sev- eral winters. Spelling schools were quite popular also, more attention being paid to orthography than at present. Sides would be chosen and a "spelling-down" contest would ensue until only one combatant was mas- ter of the field. The sole method of illumination of those "dark ages" was by candle power. Families were expected to furnish their quota of "tallow dips" upon such occasions. They were arranged in sockets at intervals upon the walls and quite often in their last stages would drop unctuous favors upon the unlucky being underneath. School papers would sometimes be read, always enlivened with items of a decidedly personal nature. Illuminating oil in lamps for school use at Sugar Grove was employed about 1857. The fluid first in use was camphene.
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Notices for evening meetings would be given out, sometimes from the pulpit, to convene "at early candle light," meaning at an early hour.
Sunday schools were quite well attended during pleasant weather, though the system in vogue of requiring children to commit verses to memory and the lack of attractive literature was not well calculated to draw pupils. Bible classes for elderly people were then unknown. Prizes were frequently offered to the two scholars who would commit the most verses to memory-bibles and testaments being the usual awards. After the teacher had listened complacently to the recital of a chapter or two by rival competitors and prompted several others through their weekly "stint" there was usually no great surplus of time left for comments on the lesson. One thing we always had in great sufficiency-tracts! Like the cruse of oil and barrel of meal, the stock never diminised. They supplied in some measure (or were supposed to) the lack of good libra- ries. Some were written in narrative form, others consisted of direct appeals to the sinner to flee from the wrath to come. The two most in demand, or supply rather, was "The Shepherd of Salisbury Plains" and "The Dairyman's Daughter"-wherein some of the good people were thankful for the small favor of salt to eat upon their potatoes, and the worthy shepherd was always pleased with the weather, for whatever pleased the Lord pleased him also.
We had Sunday school celebrations every summer, usually on the 4th of July. They were generally held at the Gap, though once we went in a long procession to Buffalo Grove. The children would meet at some point and march in couples to the grove, where seats were provided. Singing and speech-making usually took up the time till dinner was served. Tables were always provided and bountiful meals served, basket picnics being then unknown. Upon one oceasion some people from the old country were present and brought strange looking victuals-among others, custard pies pleasantly flavored with ripe currants! But the crowning joy of all the festivities came just before breaking up, when _certain mysterious boxes, kept in the background, were opened and the delicious contents passed to eager claimants. Children were not in much danger of being cloyed by sweetmeats at that era, most of their confec- tionery being of the home made variety. Consequently a few sticks of "store candy" and two or three bunches of raisins in their possession caused them to feel that the summit of earthly bliss was attained.
The first church in Palmyra was at Gap Grove, on the site of the school house now there. It was built jointly by the Congregationalists and Methodists and occupied alternate Sundays by those two denomina-
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tions. The dimensions were 24x36. It was painted white outside and within, with the exception of the pulpit. Long benches, with backs to them, seated the congregation. Only one stove was used for heating the building. The windows were destitute of blinds or curtains. Tin sock- ets for candles were arranged upon the walls, with reflectors at the back. Congregational singing was in vogue at that era. John H. Page, assisted by a tuning fork, was always depended on to "pitch the tune" for a long period. At evening meetings, when candles proved refractory upon the pulpit, some officious brother would dextrously trim the offending wick while those in the background were either entirely neglected or attended by volunteers who generally employed Nature's snuffers. Only a few names of the early ministers can be recalled-Rev. Copelin (Congrega- tlonal) being one of the best remembered. Barton Cartright came occas- ionally, but it was never on his circuit. Previous to this period services were held at. Capt. Fellows' (Rev. James McKaig being one of the minis- ters], and at a little log schoolhouse which stood near Horace Gilbert's residence at Gap Grove.
Mrs. Martha Parks, now in her 85th year, remembers attending church there the first year she and her husband lived at the old homestead, in 1839. Rev. Arrion Gaston was the officiating clergyman upon that occas- ion. Mrs. Parks is also the only survivor of those who organized the Dixon Baptist church in 1838. "Mother Dixon" being a very active and devoted member.
It is worthy of mention, also, that Mrs. Parks' daughter, Mrs. Thomas Ayres was named by Mrs. Dixon, for herself, "Rebecca Dixon," and gave her a town lot as a name present. She urged Mr. Parks to accept the deed, and have it recorded, but he "thought it would never amount to anything," and did not do so. The fact that the lot is now occupied by Alexander & Howell's store makes comment unnecessary.
The early records of Palmyra are rather meager; E. B. Bush was the first postmaster; and the first justice of the peace, after township organi- zation in 1839, were Levi Gaston and W. W. Bethea. who were succeeded by Mathias Schick and Henry A. Coe, J. Morris Johnson and W. W. Til- ton, constables, from 1839. were Eben H. Johnson, David B. Contrell, Martin Fender, W. W. Tilton, Morris Johnson, Charles Columbia, Vol- ney Mason, Charles Martin and Dana Columbia.
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