USA > Indiana > Marion County > Indianapolis > Early reminiscences of Indianapolis, with short biographical sketches of its early citizens, and a few of the prominent business men of the present day > Part 1
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Gc 977.202 In3no 1326932
M. L.
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 02302 2483
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Allen County Public Library Genealogy Center
http://www.archive.org/details/earlyreminiscenc00nowl
EARLY REMINISCENCES C
OF
INDIANAPOLIS,
INDIANA
WITH
SHORT BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES
OF ITS EARLY CITIZENS,
AND OF A FEW OF THE PROMINENT BUSINESS MEN OF THE PRESENT DAY.
BY JOHN H. B. NOWLAND.
" I have a work to do, A work I must not shun; One path I will pursue, Until my aim be won; What others do I need not ask, Enough for me I know my task."
INDIANAPOLIS: SENTINEL BOOK AND JOB PRINTING HOUSE. 1870.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year IS70, BY JOHN H. B. NOWLAND,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the District of Indiana.
DEDICATION.
1326932
THE dedication of a book is generally considered as a com- pliment and mark of respect from the author to a personal friend, and significant of pure and disinterested friendship.
Although the writer of this has many old friends worthy of such consideration, yet he can not in one work bestow it upon all. He has, however, selected from among the number one who is well worthy this slight testimonial of regard; and would that the work was more worthy to be dedicated to one who was his early friend; rejoiced in his prosperity, and ever cheered him in adversity; the companion of his youth, and for years the inmate of the same house, and who in a treacherous world has never deserted him.
I therefore respectfully inscribe "Early Reminiscences of Indianapolis, with Short Biographical Sketches of its Early Citizens, and a few of the Prominent Business Men of the present day," to EDWIN J. PECK, the steadfast friend, the honest man, and the devoted Christian.
THE AUTHOR.
INDIANAPOLIS, March 1, IS70.
PREFATORY REMARKS.
WHEN a writer assumes to give reminiscences or sketches from per- sonal knowledge or observation, he will have to use the personal pro- noun I oftener than might seem to be in good taste. In this I hope the reader will pardon me, as I have to depend almost entirely upon my personal knowledge and observation for the facts of this history for the first five years after the settlement of Indianapolis.
There are few, very few, persons now living who were here previous to the year 1825; of that class of old citizens several have died within a few years, therefore I have to depend upon my own impressions for reminiscences prior to the year named. Those impressions, however, were formed at a very early period of my life (six years of age), and at a time when once stamped upon the young mind, are indelible and can never be erased. They are, indeed, more fresh in my memory to-day than others that occurred but a few years since; for their cor- rectness I would appeal to any person living here at that time.
Therefore, I shall write what I know, and what I have seen of Indianapolis, from 1820 to 1870; and try to convey to the reader an idea of what Indianapolis was in its incipient state.
The sudden rise, the energy of its population, the excellence of its institutions, its railroad facilities, the whole character of its people and prosperity, render Indianapolis prominent among the cities that have recently sprung into existence throughout a land notable for individual enterprise; and being most happily endowed with the natural advantages of climate and soil, makes it one of the most de- sirable cities of the great West. It is, therefore, meet that its present population and the country should know something of its beginning, and of those to whom they are indebted for converting it from a howl- ing wilderness to its present state of prosperity and social happiness, before the last of those old pioneers shall have passed away.
The origin and condition of a city which has so recently become prominent among the chief cities of the Union, is a subject calculated
vi
PREFACE.
to awaken attention among minds inquiring the effects of government, and other causes, on the destinies of the human race.
As I remarked before of the pioneers of the wilderness, there are but few spared to enjoy the prosperity they contributed so much to produce. They can not look with apathy upon such exertions as will tend to perpetuate the history of the past; while the rising generation among us will naturally entertain a curiosity to know something of the men that founded and established the city of their birth and residence.
Indianapolis, situated as it is in the midst of one of the finest agri- cultural and grain growing countries of the great West, it is not astonishing or surprising it has made the rapid stride to prosperity and wealth it has within a few years. It has only been about fifteen years since there was adequate facilities for the transportation of the great surplus of the country to market. Since that time its march has been onward.
It is not my purpose, in this work, to attempt to show, from the cen- tral location of Indianapolis, its great advantages over other cities of the West. I leave that task for more able and wiser heads than mine. My object is merely to give reminiscences and sketches of its first set- tlers, and snatch from oblivion its past history, and sketches of those who have contributed so much to develop the resources of the country, and the great drawbacks against their energy, enterprise and industry they had to contend with. 'Tis with the past I expect mostly to deal, in a plain, unvarnished way; if it answers no other purpose, it may serve as a landmark for some future historian.
In giving a correct history of the times, I will have to refer to some characters and circumstances the fastidious reader may think unworthy of notice. But I assure them I do not have to draw upon my imagina- tion to find them; the characters were a part and parcel of the popula- tion, the circumstances a portion of the history; "truth is stranger than fiction," and these reminiscences would be incomplete without them.
Could the first settlers of Indianapolis, who for forty years "have slept the sleep that knows no waking," upon the banks of White River, awake to consciousness, how they would wonder and stare to see the village of log cabins they left, transformed into a city of sixty thousand inhabitants; its twelve railroads centering into one common depot; its thirty or forty magnificent temples dedicated to the worship of the only true and living God; its gorgeously decorated saloons of pleasure
vii
PREFACE.
and fashion, almost unequaled in tales of fairy land; its hundreds of wooden steeds that canter or gallop at the will of the riders ;- would they not, like Rip Van Winkle, when he inquired for Jacob Stein, ask for something they had left behind ?
Since I commenced writing these short sketches, I have recurred so often to names once familiar, and to scenes of my carly youth and school-boy days, when there was not a cloud to obscure my sun, nor a ripple upon my sea of life, when every brook and tree were as old acquaintances, I have been ready to exclaim with the poet,
"O! would I were a boy again, When life seemed formed for sunny years."
The reader will pardon me, I hope, if I use some of the cant phrases and other expressions of the "early settlers." I would here remark, "I have no friends to reward nor enemies punish." What I know, and what I have seen of Indianapolis, I shall write as General Jackson construed the Constitution, "as I understand it." Therefore, if there are any who think I have not given their name the prominence they would wish, it will be the fault of their history, and not of my pen.
In this work I will attempt to show the great variety of characters found in the early settlers of this city, and what I know personally of its history for fifty years.
EARLY REMINISCENCES.
SELECTION OF THE CAPITAL.
ispada
THE act of Congress of April, 1816, granting Indiana ad- mittance into the Union, also donated four sections of unsold public lands as a permanent seat of government, or capital of the new State.
In consequence of the central portion of the State yet. belonging to the Indians, the selection of the land was post- poned and not made until the summer of 1820. The Legis- lature that assembled in the winter of 1819-20, appointed ten commissioners, viz., Stephen Ludlow, John Conner, John Gilliland, George Hunt, Frederick Rapp, John Tipton, Joseph Bartholomew, Jesse B. Durham, William Prince, and Thomas Emerson, to make the selection.
Frederick Rapp and other members of the commission from the Southern part of the State, met at Vincennes about the middle of May, 1820, preparatory to joining the others, at the house of Wm. Conner on White River, and near where the location would most likely be made.
Matthias R. Nowland (the father of the writer), and his brother-in-law, Andrew Byrne, had been visiting some friends and relatives in Lawrence County, Illinois. On their return home, they happened at Vincennes at the time that portion of the commission were about to start to the upper White River, or the newly acquired territory, to carry out the objects for which they were appointed.
10
Early Reminiscenses.
My father and uncle were persuaded and induced to join and accompany the party. The first settlement they found, after entering the new purchase, was at the Bluffs of White River, where there were about a half dozen families settled, including that of Jacob Whetzel, near whose cabin they en- camped one day to rest themselves and jaded horses. At this point the commission was not yet full; those that were there were very much pleased with the country, and after- wards proposed revisiting that place and giving it a more thorough examination.
The next stopping place or camping ground was on the east side of Fall Creek, at its junction with White River. Here they also remained one day, and most of them were favorably impressed. My father told them if the location was made here he would not only move out to it in the fall, but would try and induce other Kentuckians to join him. At that time there were about four or five families here, viz., Hardings, Wilson, Pogue, and McCormicks, all of whom had come that spring.
My father and uncle remained at the camp at Fall Creek, while the others went to join their associates at the house of Wm. Conner, near where Noblesville now stands.
The whole commission now for the first time being together, they proceeded to examine Mr. Conner's favorite locality, which was near the present site of Noblesville. Very few fa- vored that place, and the whole party returned to their old camp at the mouth of Fall Creek.
After a few days' further examination, this site was almost unanimously chosen on the 7th of June, 1820, and the whole delegation were greeted by the few families here with demon- strations of joy, 'and their scant stores of provisions freely divided with the commissioners.
I shall never forget the tears shed in my father's family when he returned home and announced his intention of re-
11
Removal to the New Purchase.
moving to the new purchase in Indiana. This news was not long in finding its way to the ears of his numerous friends, who did all in their power to dissuade him from carrying out his intentions. They told him that he would never be permitted by the Indians to reach White River, if he started ; that he was endangering the lives of his whole family; in short, every argument was used to deter him from attempting so hazardous an undertaking; but all arguments were of no avail; his mind was made up the moment the selection of the site was made by the commissioners.
PREPARATIONS FOR AND REMOVAL TO THE NEW PURCHASE.
My father immediately set about making preparations for re- moving. He had no difficulty in selling his suburban residence of ten or twelve acres, and realized quite a handsome amount to begin with in a new country. He disposed of every article of wood or iron furniture that was not indispensable, or that could possibly be done without. He then loaded a large six- horse wagon with heavy necessary furniture and provisions sufficient for the winter use.
The beds and bedding, and most of the clothing, were so arranged and packed as to be carried on the backs of horses. Feather beds were rolled up and tied together in such a way that one would rest on each side of the horse, forming a platform on the back of the animal, where one or two children could ride. My mother and grandmother were provided with single horses and side saddles, and when the whole caravan was in motion, would remind a person of a cavalcade of Bedouins, or Arabs. In this way, about the middle of October, 1820, we left our home in Frankfort, Ken- tucky, to seek our fortune among strangers, in a wilderness whose population was almost entirely savage.
As a start in a journey is the main point, and when started
12
Early Reminisceners.
half accomplished, my father only intended to go seven miles the first day and stop at the house of an old friend, at the Sulphur Springs, to which point we were accompanied by several of his friends, who held high carnival during the eve- ning. In parting with friends, all of whom were there to see us start, there was none more deeply affected or showed more heartfelt sorrow than the old negro woman who had nursed all my father's children. When parting with my mother, she fell on her knees, and prayed that God would watch over and protect her old mistress, and her children, from the tomahawk of the wild "Ingins," which brought tears to the eyes of all present. This good old woman would have come with us, but was deterred only by the fear of the Indians. My sister, now Mrs. S. H. Patterson, of Jeffersonville, and myself, were placed on the platform made by feather beds, on the back of one of the horses. In descending a steep hill the first day we started, the horse stumbled, landing her and myself on the rocky road, with beds on top of us.
In about four days we reached the Ohio, at the mouth of the Kentucky River. Here we encountered the first difficulty of any moment. The ferry-boat had left the spring before for parts unknown. Fortunately the river was quite low, and the only possible way of getting over was to unload the wagon and take it to pieces, and ferry over in a skiff a por- tion at a time. The running gear was taken over in this way and put together; then the large body or bed was floated over; then the furniture was taken over and reloaded, and the horses swam over; and last the family were ferried over the evening of the second day, and camped for the first time in Indiana, on the north bank of the Ohio River.
The ferryman at that time was George Ash, well known in frontier history, having, when a child, been taken prisoner and raised entirely by the Indians. He lived on the Indiana side, could scarcely speak a word of English, wore rings in
13
Removal to the New Purchase.
his ears and nose, and dressed in Indian style. Although he had a very good house, he had not a chair or bedstead in it, and lived in every way like a savage.
From Ash's Ferry, as it was then called, we went by way of Versailles to Napoleon, in Ripley County; this occupied two days. Although we had an open road, it was quite hilly and rough. At Napoleon we camped near the house of William Wilson, son of Isaac Wilson, living at that time in this place, of whom I will speak in another sketch. Here we bought corn, and had it ground into meal on a small hand-mill belonging to Mr. W. This occupied one day. Here ended the road, and commenced Berry's Trace, which had to be cut out before the large wagon could get along.
The first house from Napoleon was that of Montgomery, on "Flat Rock," about nine miles above where Columbus now stands. Here we were detained one day in consequence of the wagoner having foundered one of his horses. While here we were overtaken by Henry Bradley, his brother William, and Bob Sacre, who had agreed to meet us at the mouth of the Kentucky River. This acquisition in numbers and strength, with three additional trusty rifles, was truly encouraging, and gave confidence to the whole party, especially two young men, James Graves and Nathaniel Jones, who had begun to show signs of fear soon after we crossed the Ohio River, so much so my father was afraid they would take the back track.
From Montgomery's the next house was that of Captain John Berry, father of Colonel Nineveh Berry, now of Madi- son County. Mr. Berry lived at the mouth of Sugar Creek, on Blue River, about three miles from where Edinburg now is. There also we stopped one day and replenished our stock of fresh meat by the purchase of a hog, and one of the party, I think Mr. Henry Bradley, killing a fine buck. My father had stopped at Mr. Berry's in the summer, and formed quite an attachment for him.
14
Early Reminiscences.
About the time we were there, a circumstance happened that gave name to a creek in that vicinity, which it now bears, and will, I suppose, as long as water runs in its bed. Nineveh Berry, then quite young, had killed a deer; with the deer on his shoulder and gun in his hand, he attempted to cross the creek on a log; the bark of the log slipped, throwing Mr. B., deer and gun into the water. When he went home, he told his father the circumstance, who immediately named the creek Nineveh.
The next day we reached the house of Loper, which was where Berry's Trace crossed that of Whetzell's, about three miles southwest of Greenwood. This place is now owned by William Law. It may be proper here to say there are two places in Johnson County, known as where Loper's cabin stood. This point is where his first house was. He after- wards sold this place, and built another cabin about five miles east of it, on a creek now known as Hurricane. We stayed at Loper's on the night of the third of November. The next morning set in a violent snow storm. Mr. Bradley proposed to my father to take the family on horseback, and go on and have them a warm dinner by the time they would arrive with the wagon. This he did, and we arrived about twelve o'clock, the fourth day of November, at the house of that good old Samaritan, Isaac Wilson, which was on the northwest corner of the State House Square. About four o'clock Mr. B. and friends came in with the wagon.
It was on this evening, my little eyes (as old Johnny Ewing would say) first opened upon a live "Ingin," of which I had heard so much. I had gone to the river with the teamster to help him water his horses. At the river one of the Hardings detained me to ask questions about the "new comers," what their names were, and where from. By the time I had an- swered the various questions, the teamster had reached the wagon; the horse I was riding was very restive, and finally
15
First Winter in Indianapolis.
threw me. I jumped up, and followed along the path; when about where Miekel's brewery stands, I met a "big Injun." I don't know which was the worst scared, he or I; but I suppose I was. I did not stop to ask him any foolish ques- tions, or compliment him upon his warrior-like appearance; but I think I made about as good time between that and the wagon as there is on record. One yelp and a few jumps took me to the wagon. What became of him I did not look back to see. And here commences what I know and have seen of Indianapolis.
FIRST WINTER IN INDIANAPOLIS.
We found Mr. Wilson with quite a large family of his own, although he told my father he would be welcome to the use of one of his two cabins until such time as he would be able to build one for himself; but that a Quaker from Wayne County, named Billy Townsend, had been out and raised a cabin and covered it, but had neither cut out a door, window, or place for a chimney. It was situated in the middle of Kentucky avenue, about midway between Illinois and Ten- nessee streets.
My father did not take the liberty of cutting out the doors and chimney, lest he would not get them in the place the owner wished; so he pried up two corners of the house and took out the third log from the bottom, which would, by climbing, be sufficient for ingress and egress. A few boards were removed from the middle of the roof for the escape of smoke, the fire being built in the middle of the room on the ground, there being no floor. This house had neither "chink- ing or daubing." My mother lined the inside walls by hang- ing up rag carpeting, which rendered it quite comfortable for the short time we occupied it. The whole entire male popu- lation were prompt to tender their services to assist in build- ing a cabin of our own; this, with seven men already at my
16
Early Reminiscences.
father's command, enabled him in a few days to have a com- fortable cabin, which he built on the west bank of the ravine (where the canal now runs), about midway between Washing- ton and Maryland streets.
At this eabin of Townsend's, the men enjoyed very much the going in and out of my grandmother. She was quite a large but short woman, pretty near as thick as she was long, and none enjoyed the fun more than the old lady herself.
Our new cabin was eighteen by twenty feet square; the chimney, which was in the east end, would take in a "back log" eight feet in length, and a "fore stick" ten feet. There were two doors, one on the north, and the other on the south side, opposite. These doors were made in this way to facili- tate the making of fires. The back sticks were about eighteen inches in diameter; one end was placed on a sled called a " lizard," to which the horse was hitched, and driven through the house until the log was opposite the fire-place, and then rolled to its place in the fire; and so with the fore stick; and the smaller fuel carried in and placed on top; the two large sticks would last about twenty-four hours.
Although this was one of the coldest winters ever experi- enced in this country, the ground covered with snow from the time we arrived here (4th November) until the first of March, we lived as comfortable and contented as " Friday and Robin- son Crusoe;" there were "none to hinder or make us afraid," with the exception of our dusky neighbors-they were pretty quiet during the winter.
The day before Christmas of that year, one of our house- hold killed a turkey in front of our door, and where Wash- ington street crosses the canal, that weighed twenty-three pounds before it was dressed. It was so fat that the fall from the top of the tree burst it open.
About four o'clock, Christmas morning, we were awakened by a salute from eight or ten rifles, and the ery of "Get up,
17
Indian Attempts to Cut a Door Down.
Kaintuck ; we want some of that old peach brandy and honey;" which my father understood very well to be some excellent peach brandy he brought from Kentucky, of which they had drank freely while building our cabin. When he opened the door, the entire male portion of the Harding and McCormick population stepped into the cabin, and gave three cheers for "Old Kaintuck, the new comer."
After paying the brandy the highest compliment in their power by drinking freely of it, they went to and saluted the inmates of the different cabins in a similar way. There was no petty jealousy in the people at that day ; all seemed on an equality; indeed, they seemed to think their only safety from their dusky neighbors was in unity and harmony-all seemed as members of one common family.
There were several accessions of families during that win- ter. A large portion of them were from Kentucky, among which were Robert Wilmot, George Buckner, Maxwells, Cow- ans, Daniel Shaffer (the first merchant), and many others. It was a noticeable fact that when one of the settlers should visit his old home, it would be followed by an increase of the population from that locality.
The two Messrs. Bradley stayed pretty much all winter, and assisted in clearing land preparatory for raising a "crap" the ensuing summer.
AN INDIAN ATTEMPTS TO CUT A DOOR DOWN.
One bright, sunny Sunday morning, about the middle of March, 1821, my father and myself took a walk to the river. When within about fifty yards of the house of John McCor- mick (which stood where the toll-house now stands, at the east end of White River bridge), we heard cries of "Help ! Murder !" etc., coming from the house. We ran, and by the time we got there several men had arrived.
18
Early Reminiscences.
It appears a well known and desperate Delaware, known as Big Bottle (from the fact that he generally carried hung to his belt a very large bottle), had come to the opposite bank of the river, and demanded to be brought over. Mr. McCor- mick not being at home, his wife refused to take the canoe over for him, knowing that he wanted whisky, and when drinking was a very dangerous Indian.
He set his gun down against a tree, and plunged into the river and swam over, and when we reached the house was as- cending the bank, tomahawk in hand, preparatory to cutting his way through the door, which Mrs. McCormick had barri- caded, At the sight of the several men he desisted from his intention, and said he only wished to "scare white squaw." He was taken back to his own side of the river in the canoe, and admonished that if he attempted to scare the white squaw again her husband would kill him. This rather irritated him, and he flourished his scalping-knife toward her, and intimated by signs from her head toward his belt, that he would take her sealp; but he never did, as I saw it on her head a few weeks since. She now lives in Johnson County, two miles north of Waverley. The husband of this woman, John McCormick, built this house, the first in this place, February 26th, 1820, when commenced the first settlement of Indian- apolis; although it has been asserted by some that George Pogue was here and settled in 1819, which I am prepared to show, by the most indubitable evidence, is not the case, and that John McCormick was the first, and that it was the latter part of February, 1820, and then followed, that spring, the Harding families, Wilsons, Pogues, which were about the only families here when we came on the fourth of November of that year.
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