USA > Massachusetts > Middlesex County > Melrose > Ancient Melrose and some information about its old homesteads, families & furnishings, 1915 > Part 1
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org.
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6
F 74 . M57 G63 Copy 1
ANCIENT MELROSE
A Resume of ye Early History of ye City com- piled from Authorative Records and Documents
Published by the MELROSE HISTORICAL SOCIETY PRICE 25 CENTS
ANCIENT MELROSE
AND SOME Information about its
Old Homesteads Families & Furnishings
Compiled and annotated by LEVI S. GOULD AND FRANKLIN P. SHUMWAY
PUBLISHED BY THE MELROSE HISTORICAL SOCIETY 1915
Reading Nen: ,SE
James Steens
N.2.94.
E
W
Nie Ergo poles STONEHAM
Na Road
Capilar
Emerne
S
Long Pono
Stan chan
Ende
Swains Fond
N25-1993 Poles
Reading Pour.
Wait. Truera
Solen Roads
laut Deters
July Mills
Medfood Good
Jill, Taverna
Hatches House
CHELSEA
y. Cull Bradburyof
about 120 genes
Charlestown Do
Chelsea Road
THE
Medford River
Eet Pond So . 1. 11
Long Pond 5.1.92
Swains Pend 60:24
SEP 30 1915 CCIA410766
16 0
¿.
201
PLAN OF MALDEN (INCLUDING MELROSE) MADE IN 1795
MEDFORD
MALDEN RIVER
Pap Biraura A
MS3° E 120 /2010, Jf32°& 830 holes
PLAN f MALDEN Contains 8826 Acers including Water and Roads Survey'd D 1795 By Peter Tufts jun
Nav 30'E 275 polis
CHELSEA
PREFACE
The Melrose Historical Society desires to extend their thanks to the family of the late E. H. Goss, Esq. for permission to reprint ad libitum from his "History of Melrose" matter and cuts relating to the early life of Melrose and to Mr. H. Willard Clark for the use of original photographs of the "Phineas Upham" house and grounds.
The illustrations and text of this book are all copyrighted and must not be reprinted unless written permission is given by the owners of the copyrights on same.
The thanks of the Society are also tendered to the many advertisers whose advertisements made it possible to issue this book without expense to the Society.
FRANKLIN P. SHUMWAY, President.
Melrose. September 1st, 1915.
COPYRIGHT 1915 Melrose Historical Society
BOSTON MASS. OLD COLONY PRESS
EARLIEST VISITORS
O NE of the many voyages of the intrepid and heroic navigator, Captain John Smith, was made in 1614, when he first visited the New England coast. He sailed from London, in the month of April, with two ships and forty-five men. The object of the voyage was, "to take Whales, for which we had one Samuel Cramton, and diners others expert in that faculty, and also to make tryalls of a Myne of Gold and Copper; if those failed, Fish and Furs were then our refuge to make our selues sauers howsooner."
Not meeting with much success, and finding "this Whalefishing a costly conclusion," and filled with his usual spirit of exploration, he says: "Whilst the Sailors fished, myself with eight others of them that might best bee spared," ranged up and down the coasts of Maine and Massachusetts, "in a small boat," visiting the various harbors and rivers. Dur- ing this time, he continues: "I was vp one riuer fortie miles, crossed the mouths of many, whose heads are reported to be great Lakes." When he entered Boston Harbor, he says: " I tooke the fairest reach in this Bay for a river, whereupon I called it Charles River, the name of our Royall King Charles."
How far inland, around the Charles, Mystic and Malden Rivers, Captain Smith pene- trated is not known. He may have visited our pleasant valley and its surrounding hills, but he has made no record of such an event. Without doubt he traversed a goodly portion of the territory of Charlestown and Malden, as three months were occupied in these travels and explorations.
In his quaint manner he describes this seetion as follows:
"And then the Countrie of Massachusetts, which is the paradise of all those parts. For heere are many lles all planted with corne, groues, mulberries, saluage gardens, and good harbours. . . . And of all the foure parts of the world that I have yet scene not inhabited, could I haue but means to transport a Colonie, I would rather liue here than anywhere; and if it did not maintaine it selfe, were wee but once indifferently well fitted, let vs starue. . there is vietuall to feede vs, wood of all sorts to build Boats, Ships, or Barks; the fish at our doores; pitch, tarre, masts, yards, and most other necessaries onely for making? And here are no hard Landlords to racke vs with high rents, or extorted fines to consume vs; no tedious pleas in law to consume vs with their many years disputations for Justice; no multitudes to occasion such impediments to good orders, as in popular States. So freely hath God and his Maiesty bestowed those blessings on them that will attempt to obtaine them, as here euery man may be master and owner of his owne labour and land; or the greatest part in a small time. If hee haue nothing but his hands, he may set vp his trade; and by industrie quickly grow rich."
In September, 1621, ten men, under the leadership of Captain Myles Standish, with Tisquantum, or Squanto, and two other Indians, left Plymouth on a voyage of discovery. They were gone four days. They landed, evidently, on the Malden shore of the Mystic River, and travelled up through Medford. Their diary states:
"On the morrow we went ashore, all but two men, and marched in Armes vp in the Coun- trey. Hauing gone three myles, we came to a place where Corne had been gathered, a house pulled downe, and the people gone."
They went as far as the residence of the former Chief Nanepashemet, parleyed and bartered with some Indians and returned to Plymouth, reporting the result of their obser-
[5]
vations. Many other exploring expeditions were made by those who followed the Pilgrims in 1620 to our shores.
These were engendered by the different grants made in England about this time. The territory of which Melrose forms a part, was granted to Robert Gorges by "The Council established at Plymouth, in the County of Devon, for the planting, ruling, ordering, and governing of New England in America," of which the Earl of Warwick and Sir Ferdinando Gorges, father of Robert, were the most prominent members. This Council claimed autho- rity "over the region extending from Delaware Bay to Newfoundland and westward over unknown countries to the great South Sea." This grant to Robert Gorges conveyed
"all that part of the mainland commonly called Messachusiac, on the north-east side of the Bay known by the name of Massachuset, together with all the shores along the sea for ten English miles in a straight line towards the north-east, and thirty miles into the main- land through all the breadth aforesaid."
Soon after Robert Gorges granted to John Oldham and John Dorrell
"all the lands wthin Mattachusetts Bay betweene Charles River and Abousett [Saugus] River, Containd in lengt by a streight lyne 5 myles vp the said Charles River into the maine land north west from the border of the sd Bay including all Creekes and points by the way and 3 myles in length from the mouth of the foresaid river of Abousett vp into the maine land vpon a streight lyne S: W: including all Creeks and points, and all the land in bredth and length betweene the foresaid Rivers, wth all prrogatives Ryall Mynes excepted."
In 1628 many settlers came to Salem, among them Ralph, Richard and William Sprague, sons of Edward Sprague of Upway, in Dorsetshire. Soon after arriving, these brothers, with several others, with the approbation of Governor Endicott, went on an exploring expe- dition, in a westerly direction, traversing the intervening territory between Salem and Charlestown; thus passing through and examining on the way, portions of Lynn, Saugus, Melrose, Malden and Medford; fording three rivers, Saugus, Malden and Mystic, before reaching their destination, Mishawam, now Charlestown. Returning the Sprague brothers remained in Salem but a short time; for they soon after retraced their steps and settled in Charlestown, and were among those referred to in a letter written in 1629, by Rev. Francis Higginson.
"There are in all of vs both old and new planters about three hundred, whereof two hundred of them are settled in Neihumkek, now called Salem: and the rest have planted themselves at Masathulets Bay, beginning to build a towne there which wee doe call Cherton, or Charles Towne."
There were many descriptions of our New England territory sent home to England by these early adventurers, some of which seem to us of today somewhat overdrawn and too enthusiastic; but none of these writers were so thorough and enthusiastic as was William Wood, who, after his return to England in 1634, gives a complete and detailed history of this whole territory. His work was entitled, "New Englands Prospect. A true, lively, and experimentall description of that part of America, commonly called New England: discovering the state of that Countrie, both as it stands to our new-come English Planters; and to the old Native Inhabitants .- Laying downe that which may both enrich the knowledge of the mind- travelling Reader, or benefit the future Voyager."
In the second part of this work Wood gives a complete description of the Indian tribes then inhabiting this region. It has besides, the first map of "The South Part of New-Eng- land, as it is Planted this Yeare, 1634," wherein he locates the various rivers, settlements, etc. Herein is shown "Spott pond," "Misticke pond," "Horn ponds," and others.
Two large and powerful tribes held sway in this region when our fathers landed, - the Massachusetts and the Pawtuckets. The renowned sachem of the Pawtuckets was Nane- pashemit, who took up his abode on the Mystic River in 1615, and was killed there three
[6]
Compliments nf Chandler & Un., Jur.
Retailers nf
Ladies' Apparel - Millinery Dry Goods Linens - Carpets-Bugs
151 Oremunt Street, Boston
[7]
THE PHINEAS UPHAM HOUSE BEFORE RESTORATION
or four years later. He was the father of Sagamore John of the Mystic, Sagamore James of Lynn, and Sagamore George of Salem. George finally filled the place of his father, and was sachem of the Pawtuckets. During the residence of Nanepashemit in Medford, his lodge was on Rock Hill, where he could best watch the approach of his enemies. . . . The territory for many miles round Mystic River was owned and occupied by small tribes or detachments, each having its own head. Medford and some of the adjoining territory belonged to Sagamore John, whose Indian name was Monohagnaham, and who was friendly to our ancestors, and gave our fathers permission to settle, and afterwards appraised them of premeditated attacks by unfriendly Indians.
Sagamore John had his headquarters in Malden, his home being in the southern part of the town, now Everett, "upon a ereek, which runs from the marshes between Powder- Horn Hill and Winnesimmet, into the Mystic River at Swecetzer's, or Beacham's, Point." From which point the ancient road laid out in 1653 ran through Everett, Maklen via Forest Dale cemetery and Wyoming cemetery, Lynde, Lebanon, and Green Street Melrose to the "Reading Ponds."
FIRST SETTLEMENTS
Originally the territory of Melrose belonged to the town of Charlestown, which was settled in 1629, and was a far more extensive region than that now belonging to it. It then included what is now Somerville, Malden, Everett, Woburn, Burlington, Melrose, Stone- ham, a small part of Cambridge, West Cambridge and Reading, and a large part of Medford. Town after town was taken from it, gradually diminishing its territory until it became the smallest town, territorially, in the State. Woburn, comprising Burlington, was taken from it and incorporated in 1642; Malden, in 1649; Stoneham, in 1725; Somerville, in 1842. In 1717 and 1725, a large traet called "North Charlestown," was set off, part to Malden and part to Reading. In 1754, another tract, including several large farms, was set off to Medford, and now forms the eastern part of that city. A tract was set off to Cambridge in 1802, and to West Cambridge in 1842. Thus was Charlestown, now a distriet of Boston, reduced to its present limits.
In a few years after the settlement of Charlestown, the inhabitants from that town and other sources, began to cross over the Mystic River, and settle at Mystic Side; it was thus known as early as 1634; and when Thomas Coytmore, "a right godly man," built a dam, and soon after a mill at "Black Rock," on "Three Myle Brook."
Near the present center of Malden, quite a settlement had been established; and, owing to their distance from Charlestown proper, very soon the inhabitants began to think of forming a new town, and having taken the necessary steps, on May 11, 1649, the General Court passed the following vote:
"In answer to the peticon of seull inhabitants of Misticke side their request is graunted, viz., to be a distinet towne of themselves, & the name thereof to be Maulden."
Malden was named after the town of Maklon, England, by Joseph Hills and others, who came from that town. "The affections of the first planters of New England still chung, as was natural, to the soil of their nativity; and they designed, by the names they betsowed on the places of their abode, in this land of their adoption, to keep alive in their breasts the tender associations of home."
In 1727 Malden lost quite a large tract of territory which would now have formed a part of Melrose had this action not have taken place. A number of families in the extreme north of the town were dissatisfied by "being so remote from the Middle of the Town that they are under great Inconvenience and Difficulties to attend the publick worship there, and their Civil and Military Duties in the Said Town, and that they ly much nearer to Reading," ete. Their prayer to be set off to Reading was favorably acted upon
[9]
by that town, which petitioned the General Court for their annexation and this was also favorably acted upon by Malden, May 22, 1727. L. S. G.]
The section thus lost to Malden shortened the town more than a mile, and carried with it some of the wealthiest inhabitants. It is to this addition to the limits of the old town of Reading that the town of Wakefield owns the peculiar configuration of its southerly por- tion embracing the present village of Greenwood.
The names of the ten families thus changing their town connections were: William Green, Thomas Upham, Nathaniel Evans, David Green, John Walton, Samuel Evans, John Evans, Richard Upham, Samuel Howard and Thomas Green. In 1734, still another tract of the northwestern part of Malden was set off, by Legislative act, to the town of Stoneham. There was a cluster of Green families in this part of the town who were also remote from religious privileges, and who were not embraced in the action of 1727. A petition to the General Court, June 21, 1734, signed by John Green, Isaac Green, John Dexter and Jonas Green of Malden, and David Green, Thomas Green and Samuel Green of Reading, which peti- tion set forth "their Difficulty to attend the Public Worship of God in their Towns by Reason of their Remoteness from the meeting house;" and praying "That they and their familys and Estates may by order of this Court be annexed to the Town of Stoneham." Favorable action was granted Dec. 21, 1734. This territory comprised most all of that now known as the Melrose Highlands, and it remained a part of Stoneham until 1853, when, after much opposition on the part of that town, it was reunited to the territory of Melrose.
The Commons was an extensive tract of land belonging to the town of Malden, embrac- ing about thirty-five hundred acres, which was nearly one-half of the town, as then con- stituted. About twenty-three hundred of these acres covered all of the eastern part of what is now Melrose, and most of what was onee the northerly part of Malden; that por- tion now known as Greenwood. It was the land lying east of Ell Pond, and east of Lebanon and Green Streets, extending from a little way below Swain's Pond in the south, up into Wakefield, then Reading, to Smith's Pond, now ealled Crystal Lake; and to within about half a mile of Reading meeting-house. It was "full of stately timber," and, say the Charles- town records: "indeed generally all the country round about was an uncouth wilderness."
We are told that when our ancestors made their settlement at Shawmut, now Boston, they sent out a number of persons to examine the country to the North, who, having searched the first range of hills, probably the range near us, then covered with forests, returned and reported, that, having reached a mountainous and rocky country, they deemed it best to come back, as there was little probability that the settlement would ever extend beyond these mountains.
DIVIDING THE COMMON LAND
Dec. 25, 1694 Deacon John Green, John Greenland, Tryal Newberry, Phineas Upham, Thomas Newhall, Lieutenant Joseph Wilson and Henry Green were chosen to proceed with the division of the "Commons" according to the direction "of ye formar commite namely those gentillmen That are chosen out of this town." Many other votes giving details for accomplishing this important matter were passed; among them the following:
"Also agreead upon by ye commitie yt for ye deuiding of ye common euery properioters name shall be writ distintly: and yt ye lots be well shuffled together: And one man chose by ye town: To draw ym out of a bag: and ye first man yt is drawen shall have ye first lot in ye common beginning as aforesaid And so sucksesiuely as ye all drawen To the pro- portion of 1000 accres and then to proseed in ye same way and method for another 1000 accres.
It is also agreead upon by ye commite That there shall be 2 pols in breadth between euery Raing of lots for high wais: and that euery mans lot shall Run Eighty two pool in leangth for yt end.
[ 10]
Also that "this comitee hes pouer to improue An artis to lay out ye lots," and that John Sargeant Jr., be authorized "To draw ym out of a bag."
Mr. Corey, who has made a very thorough study of these "Commons" and their dis- position, says:
The allotment was finally completed; and the record begins as follows:
"Recorded May ye 30: 1695: An a Greement of the Town of malden In deuiding of The common The first deuision begining at the upar end next to nathaniell eueness land by Charlstown line: In mannar as followeth: ye lots Runing 82 pool in length."
This division, which contained nine hundred and thirty-one acres and fifty-one poles, was laid out in seven ranges and seventy-four lots. It comprised the northern portion of the town between the bounds of Boston and Charlestown. The Evans farm of sixty acres, on the westerly side of the road, and the woodland, which had been reserved for the ministry, on the easterly side, alone parted it from the Reading line at Smith's Pond. This tract of common was broken by the Green farm, by a piece of land north of L Pond which belonged to the estate of Thomas Coytmore as early as 1653, by ten acres of meadow "aboue the old cow pen in Mauldon" which Joseph Hills had sold to Henry Evans in 1660, and, per- haps, by smaller lots of appropriated land. [This division extended to our present Howard Street.]
The second division of the two thousand acres, containing nine hundred and forty-two acres and twenty-eight poles, was laid out in six ranges and seventy-five lots. [Extending from Howard Street to south of Grove Street.] Beginning "by elle ponde," it stretched over the highlands towards the Boston line, covering the country east of the Reading Road [Main Street] and north of Swain's Pond. [Quite a large proportion of this territory is now known as East Side.] Some of the ways reserved for passage between the ranges in this division became highways in time and still exist. [Porter, Upham, and Grove Streets.] . . . These two divisions comprised the territory known as the two thousand acres and contained, together, eighteen hundred and seventy-three acres and seventy-nine poles, as measured by Mr. Fisk, the "artis."
The third division is described as "The third diuision for the Remander of the wood Land one the este sid the mill brook called the three hundred ackrs Begining at sargent Skiners Lote and are to rune 40 poles in length." Its seventy-four lots embraced three hundred and eleven aeres and fifty-eight poles of the woodland between Swain's Pond and Scadan. [Now known as "South East," and includes the high summit of Mount Hood.]"
The balance of these "Commons" now divided, was on territory now Malden. There were seventy-four proprietors and freeholders who shared in this allotment; the names are all given by Mr. Corey, in his History of Malden, pp. 376-7.
Soon after this division was made many of the lots were sold to persons who had no inter- est in the common land, and about the year 1700, many of the people who already owned, or now bought, began to build houses and settle upon their lots.
A piece of land at the eastern end of Ell Pond, where now stand the ice-houses, was reserved for a watering place, and for the washing of flax, the material of which the home- made clothing of the early inhabitants was made. It appears that the abutters began to encroach upon this public water resort, and April 17, 1699, Corporal John Green, Phineas Upham, and Joseph Floyd were chosen to run
"ye bounds and renew ye marks between proprioters land: and ye small peece of common land: adjoining to L pond: which was left for convenence of watering."
[11]
SOLDIERS AND SAILORS MEMORIAL BUILDING
U. S. GRANT POST No. 4, ON MOUNT HOOD-1910
MOUNT HOOD
Mount Hood, which was formerly known as "Bear Hill," is situated in the southeast- erly part of Melrose near the Saugus line. This elevation, the highest in this vicinity, commands an extensive view which inchides twenty-seven towns and cities. Nahant and Revere Beach seem to be at one's feet, a fine view of the waters of Massachusetts Bay follows, and then turning inland, the eye is greeted with delightful scenery everywhere, stretching even to the New Hampshire hills.
Tradition states that upon this summit the Wampanoag Indians, whose Sachem in early Colonial times was Massasoit, lighted the signal fires by which they communicated with other friendly tribes as far away as Mt. Wachusett, near the foot of which dwelt another tribe of "good" Indians with whom they engaged in barter and exchange.
In 1907 Mount Hood was purchased by Mr. John C. F. Slayton, who constructed a road to the summit and there erected an observatory which was afterwards partly des- troyed by fire but will be restored.
On the opposite page is a reproduction of a photograph of the Veterans of U. S. Grant Post G. A. R., No. 1, taken on the occasion of an outing given for them at Mount Hood on Memorial Day, 1907.
The other illustration is the Soldiers' and Sailors' Memorial Building, of Greek architec- ture, which was constructed of Quincy granite
obtained from the old Court House in Boston.
The corner stone of this splendid building was laid on May 30, 1912, by the Grand Lodge of Masons of Massachusetts, accompanied by the Hugh DePayens Commandery, K. T. and the Wyoming Lodge of Masons.
The finely finished and fitted up G. A. R. Hall, the Veterans' Club Room and the Ladies' Parlor, together with the finely appointed kitchen and Banquet Hall occupy the front part of the building.
Directly in the rear, connected with the G. A. R. Hall, and entered by lobbies on the north and south sides of the building, is the Auditorium, with a seating capacity for eleven hundred people, including two beautiful boxes and a stage finely equipped for dramatic, musical or forum purposes, and with a lighting system, throughout unexcelled.
This unique building was made possible by the generosity and efforts of Mr. John C. F. Slayton, chairman of the Building Committee, who devoted more than one year's time of per- sistent effort to overseeing the construction of the building, creating and solidifying public sentiment in its favor. He also gave more than one-fourth of the whole cost, provided the granite for the structure, and contributed the interior furnishings, boxes, pianos and stage equipment.
In the G. A. R. Hall hangs a portrait of Mr. Slayton, with a bronze tablet, inscribed with this enduring tribute :---
JOHN C. F. SLAYTON
WHOSE VISION GENEROSITY AND LEADERSHIP MADE THIS MEMORIAL OF PAST HEROISM A PRESENT REALITY AND AN INSPIRATION TO A NOBLER COMMUNITY LIFE PRESENTED TO THE CITY OF MELROSE BY HIS FELLOW CITIZENS MEMORIAL DAY 1913
[13]
NORTH MALDEN NOW MELROSE
At the time the Boston and Maine Railroad was completed, (in 1845) the territory of Melrose, then known as "North Malden," and earlier as "North End," was very sparsely settled. Very soon after it commeneed operation, July 4, 1845, people from Boston and other places, began to investigate our pleasant vale for residences; and in a short time many families had here made their homes. The church, business, town and social relations were so separated from the centre and main town of Malden, that the citizens began to agitate a separation from the mother town, and the setting up of a municipality by itself; and in 1848, and 1849, this matter was most earnestly canvassed, and action taken. On March 22, 1849, an aet was reported to the House of Representatives for the incorporation of the Town of Melrose, which was passed April Io, almost unanimously; but it failed to receive the concurrence of the Senate by a vote of twenty-seven to three.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.