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TEEM
Gc 974.402 Ea96t 1381526
M. L.
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 00086 1853
EASTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 1651-1951
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7
Kelsey
EASTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS C
1651-1951
EASTHAM'S THREE CENTURIES
Donald G. Trayser
NAUSET ON CAPE COD Alice Alberta Lowe
The P
INTRODUCTION Henry Beston
ILLUSTRATED
N
OF EASTH
NAUSET 1620
1
NCORPOR
THE EASTHAM TERCENTENARY COMMITTEE
1951
Copyright 1951 by THE EASTHAM TERCENTENARY COMMITTEE EASTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS
Six Hundred Copies of This Edition Have Been Printed of Which This is No. 145
Hancock Press, Lexington 73, Mass.
Foreword
1381526
In the Eastham Annual Town Meeting Warrant dated January 20, 1949, Article 33 reads:
To see if the town will vote to appoint a committee to form plans in commemoration of the 300th anniversary of the town's incorporation.
The Town did so vote -- unanimously.
Thus the Eastham Tercentenary Committee came into being.
Now, after two years of individual spade work and or- ganizational collaboration carried on in enthusiastic support of the distinguished literary talent which good fortune has so kindly bestowed upon us, the Committee with justifiable pride presents this Tricentennial brochure in the firm belief it not only will be read with interest and enjoyment by the folks and friends of Eastham but also will endure as an historic nar- rative for future generations.
So-acting in the capacity of a sort of epistolary toast- master, as it were-it becomes the pleasant task of the writer to herewith express the gratification which the Tercentenary Committee feels over the rare combination of circumstances that have so happily lent themselves to the success of the project.
High on the agenda of credits stands the remarkably gen- erous response on the part of the good people from near and far to the subscription plan-a sure fire indication of the es- teem which residents, visitors and boosters all hold for the fine old town, its history and its traditions.
Further. One might well travel far and search widely, yet still not find a two-leaf clover of good luck comparable with that which Dame Fortune has so opportunely bestowed up- on us-Henry Beston and Donald G. Trayser. It is the charm- ing preface by the former-so well known as the author of that
. 5202 3 -
Goods $5,00
vi
FOREWORD
masterpiece of Cape Cod lore, The Outermost House-coupled with a story of Eastham, the like of which has never before been written, now set forth by the latter, a distinguished his- torian and man-of-letters, that will give the book a worthy place in the library of Cape Cod literature.
Finally-To Alberta Lowe and to all the other good people who both directly and indirectly have so courteously permitted the use of their writings and reproductions from photograph collections, the Tercentenary Committee expresses deep appreciation and sincere thanks.
HARRY S. YOUNG,
General Chairman.
THE AUTHORS
Donald G. Trayser, Clerk of the Courts for the County of Barnstable, is author of "Barnstable-Three Centuries of a Cape Cod Town."
ac Alberta A: Lowe, of Reading is granddaughter of the late Sylvanus Knowles, of Fort Hill, Eastham, and has done considerable research in Eastham history.
Henry Beston, of The Fo'castle, Eastham Dunes, and Chimney Farm, Nobleboro, Maine, is author of "The Outer- most House," "The St. Lawrence," in Rivers of America series, "Northern Farm," and many other works.
170
Contents
Foreword, by Harry S. Young V
Chairman, Tercentenary Committee
Introduction, by Henry Beston . xi
EASTHAM'S THREE CENTURIES Donald G. Trayser
I THE KINGDOME OF NAUSET 1
Of Early Explorers 3
6
Of Nauset and the Pilgrims . Of the Nauset Indians . 8
II THE FOUNDING OF EASTHAM 11 .
The Confirmatory Grant 14
Eastham, The Mother Town 16
Early Town Affairs 20
23
The First Comers
23
Eastham and Wars
29
Of Eastham Churches . .
34
IV
SOME 19TH CENTURY HAPPENINGS
39
Of Eastham's Canal
39
The Great Epidemic .
41
Of Camp Meeting Years
43
Two Eastham Poets .
45
Travel by Land and Sea
50
V EASTHAM AS A MARITIME TOWN
.
55
Storm and Shipwreck .
55
Of Nauset Beach Life Savers
61
Eastham's Two Lighthouses
69
Of Eastham Shipmasters
75
VI THREE CENTURIES IN RETROSPECT .
82
Some Eastham Industries
82
Nauset as Seen by Visitors .
95
Eastham in 1951
103
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
III
OF FIRST COMERS, WARS AND CHURCHES
.
viii
CONTENTS
Statistics, Notes and Bibliography
·
106
NOTES FROM NAUSET ON CAPE COD Alice Alberta Lowe
Same Eastham Sea Captains · 111
Stage Coaches, Taverns and Stores 129 ·
Notes on Eastham Schools . 133 ·
Notes on Eastham Organizations
138
Old Houses of Eastham 140 .
Of the Old Cemeteries
146
Town Halls and Town Officers .
150
Acknowledgments
160
FRIENDS OF THE EASTHAM TERCENTENARY
The Eastham Tercentenary Committee 163 -
List of Individual Subscribers 164 ·
Commercial and Professional Directory
· 175
.
.
Illustrations
THE OLD WINDMILL .
Frontispiece
CHAMPLAIN 1605 MAP
. 4
FIRST ENCOUNTER TABLET .
7
POPPLE 1730 MAP
18
DOANE HOME SITE
24
GREAT ROCK
27
PETER HIGGINS .
31
METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH .
36
UNIVERSALIST CHURCH
37
JEREMIAH'S GUTTER .
40
CAMP MEETING SCENES
42-44
HEMAN DOANE
. 46
1795 MAP
52
CAPE ANN WRECK
56
KATIE J. BARRETT WRECK
58
HAROLDINE ASHORE .
60
FIRST LIFE SAVING STATION
63
ALBERT MILLER WRECK
64
NAUSET C. G. STATION
65
SCHOONER LILY WRECK
66
BILLINGSGATE ISLAND
68
BILLINGSGATE LIGHT .
71
THREE SISTERS OF NAUSET .
73
NAUSET LIGHT . .
74
CLIPPER NORTHERN LIGHT
74
OLD SALT WORKS
84
PAINTING, SALT WORKS
85
EASTHAM IN 1951, MAP
88-89
BLACKFISH ASHORE
90
OLD FRENCH CABLE STATION
93
FRENCH CABLE CREW
94
SALT POND AND INLET
96
THOREAU MAP .
98
NAUSET BEACH IN SUMMER
100
THE OUTERMOST HOUSE .
102
SURF AND DUNES AT NAUSET
110
CAPTAIN FREEMAN HATCH
114
.
48
PRENCE PEAR TREE
.
.
X
ILLUSTRATIONS
HATCH MONUMENT .
. 116
SHORE OF TOWN COVE
119
PENNIMAN WHALEBONES
125
PENNIMAN HOUSE
127
NORTH EASTHAM STREET SCENE .
128
FOUR OLD BUILDINGS
130
M. E. Church
Old Grammar School
Eastham Depot
Brackett's General Store
TWO OLD TIMERS
. 132
EASTHAM ELEMENTARY SCHOOL .
137
SWIFT HOUSE-1741
141
THREE OLD DWELLINGS
142
Crosby Tavern
Sylvanus Doane House
Thomas Gill House
THREE VENERABLE HOUSES
144
Peter Higgins House
Harry Collins House Ella Mayo House
"UNCLE" THOMAS GILL
148
NEW AND OLD TOWN HALLS
151
TIMOTHY SMITH
152
TOWN HALL WITH ADDITION
. 153
CHARTER MEMBERS, FIRE DEPARTMENT
155
FIREMEN'S ASSOCIATION
. 156
GREAT POND SCENE
159
THE TERCENTENARY COMMITTEE
. 162
EASTHAM FAMILY SCENE
174
TOWN HALL AT CHRISTMAS ·
. 183
TERCENTENARY WELCOME SCENE
184
Introduction
A traveler from the mainland, once he has turned the el- bow of the Cape and continued northerly, will presently en- counter one of the most beautiful and dramatic landscapes in America. It is the great scenic view of the marshes of East- ham spreading eastward channeled with winding creeks to a barrier wall of dunes travailed by wind and wave, and beyond these dunes, the sea. The light in the sky will have changed to the observant and musing eye. Throughout the immensity of space the sun's brightness is reflected from the two great mirrors of Cape Cod Bay and the North Atlantic, and the western sky in particular is at sundown one of the burning windows of the world, beautiful beyond telling when some golden planet stands in the twilight clarity above the woods.
The community seated thus between two seas is one of the oldest in English-speaking North America, being of early seventeenth century origin. An Indian community preceded it upon these moors, and it was once the Algonquin tongue which was heard on the rounded, grass-covered hills and along the shores of the bay. Champlain, visiting and exploring the southern New England coast in 1605, gives a sketch of this Red Man's Village, and shows it as large and populous. Out- wardly nothing remains of it today but a debris of arrow- makers' flakes at certain stations on the marsh shore, grooves in a boulder, and the occasional arrowheads one finds now and then as one searches the terrain. All is gone, and yet places in America where the Indian lived his life in its primitive vitality and awareness always seem to keep a kind of ghostly remem- brance of him in the intangible air. Something of the sort lingers in the Eastham scene, and it means that the American earth of Cape Cod and the human spirit were conscious each of each before history began.
The Yankee community thus took possession of memor-
xii
INTRODUCTION
able fields. It was in its origin an offshoot of Plymouth and the Pilgrims, but all this you will find in Mr. Trayser's care- fully documented and most readable pages. As the small boat in which the settlers crossed Cape Cod Bay left behind the blue headland of Manomet and approached the low-lying shores of Eastham, these Englishmen little knew what was to seize with power upon their hearts and imaginations. What was to take possession of them was Cape Cod (already named by Gosnold) the Cape of the great beaches timelessly thunder- ing with the surf of the North Atlantic, the Cape of the blue ponds and the wind-shorn woods and thickets, the Cape of the bulwark wall facing the vast tumult of the northeasters and the snow, the Cape of the blue summer days and the white gulls flying at sundown from the shallows of one sea to the creeks of another. A new human being, a new figure in history, the Cape Codder, was to rise out of this alliance of the Atlantic, a noble landscape, and the American by heritage. Deep-sea sailors and sailors of the coasting trade, captains of nineteenth century clippers, fishermen of the Georges, life-savers and coast- guards of the outer beach, farmers and alert traders, all these were to come, along with the patient and courageous women who stood by them through their robust existences. Is it a wonder that the Cape as a place has a hold on American imag- ination which has scarce a parallel? Out of Eastham has come something which has given strength, color, romance, and depth of feeling to the whole American adventure.
Eastham this year celebrates its tercentenary. May the occasion prosper mightily and be worthy both of the town be- tween the seas and of those who in all these thrice hundred years have loved it with such pride and depth of feeling.
HENRY BESTON.
The Outermost House
Eastham Dunes
Eastham's Three Centuries Donald G. Trayser
I
1651
1951
The Kingdome of Nauset
Even on Cape Cod, where neither man nor nature have ever run to the commonplace, the Town of Eastham has al- ways seemed endowed with a rather special charm and char- acter. This it derives from things both seen and unseen: from its geography as well as its history, from its plains, moors, marshes and dunes lying betwixt two seas, and its origins as the Cape's old Pilgrim town. Its qualities of uniqueness might solemnly be analyzed, but to no great end. Those who love Eastham know well this distinctive character, and most visitors sense it soon after they turn northward as the long arm of the Cape turns, cross Jeremiah's Gutter, and encounter the rolling plains which stretch between Eastham's great outer beach and its bay shore.
These plains bearing the ancient Indian name of Nauset- called by the Pilgrims "The Kingdome of Nauset"-together with its moors and marshes, give the town a physical appear- ance quite unlike the face of any other Cape Cod town. They have been synonymous with Eastham all through its history, and never have they failed to impress the beholder. The Pil- grims came near to moving their colony seat here, and did send a goodly group of their "considerablest" to found Nauset. When Timothy Dwight, president of Yale, visited Eastham in 1800 and in one vast panorama saw both broad ocean and magnifi- cent bay and the plateau between, he thought it a sight few places on the continent could match; when he returned, trav- elling southward, and surveyed the bay shore wastelands, he concluded that nothing could equal Eastham's "dreariness and desolation." So run impressions of old Nauset-often looked over, rarely overlooked.
Such contrasts as seeming both magnificent and dreary to a single observant visitor are not unusual in this old town ly-
2
EASTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS
ing thirty miles out in the Atlantic from the mainland of Massa- chusetts, where the sun rises from the ocean and sets over the bay. Indeed, they contribute to its distinctive character. Where the fourteen other Cape Cod towns present rolling and hilly aspects, only Eastham has its level plains. Not the Cape's oldest town, by half a dozen years, yet only Eastham was founded by the Pilgrim old-comer stock right out of Plymouth. Perhaps most curious in its long past is that East- ham began as one of the largest towns in area on the peninsula and ended as the smallest, save one. Such are just a few dis- tinctions; those who cherish Eastham over any other place on earth know many more.
Surely it is not by mere chance that in all the literature of Cape Cod, which fills many shelves, the two most memorable works-those which most happily record through the percep- tive eye of philosopher and naturalist the true heartbeat of the old Cape-both dwell long and lovingly on Nauset, its plains and its great beach. In these, Henry David Thoreau's cen- tury-old classic, "Cape Cod" and Henry Beston's modern classic, "The Outermost House," more than in the dry bones of names and dates and events which here follow, one may feel and perhaps even glimpse that usually invisible spirit, the genius loci that hovers over Nauset.
"Eastham," began our diligent parson-historian Enoch Pratt a century ago, "is in latitude 41° 51' N, and longitude 69° 56' W." Which, to a generation of seafaring Cape Cod- ders, quite properly put first things first, as if to say, "Look. On the chart of the whole wide world I put my finger exactly here, on this bit of terra firma called Eastham, the position of which I give you and the history of which I shall now relate." This, Parson Pratt proceeded to do very well, carefully setting down the happenings of Eastham's first two centuries in a slender volume still cherished in many an Eastham home today.
Now another, a third century, has passed. Generations have been born here more familiar with road signs than lati- tudes and longitudes, lived out useful lives and passed on to their fathers, since the good parson laid down his pen. In this
3
THE KINGDOME OF NAUSET
year of our Lord nineteen hundred and fifty-one Eastham joins the select group of New England towns which have existed as bodies politic for three hundred years. Which is to say, of course, that a fitting moment has arrived in the tide of the years, for its citizens to pause and survey anew their town's long past. For if anniversaries have any significance, it is as peaks from which to look backward, that from the past, and past courage, we may derive understanding and courage for to- day, and tomorrow.
OF EARLY EXPLORERS
Nauset Indians, Pilgrims and corn seem to stare at one from out of Eastham's early years. But to begin at first things, one should turn to the explorers who visited Nauset and what they here saw. One thing was a sandy point or rather the re- mains of a sandy point, at the entrance to Nauset harbor, long since completely submerged. Bartholomew Gosnold, the Eng- lish explorer, in 1602 called it Point Care and the surf around it Tucker's Terror. De Monts and Champlain, the French ex- plorers, in 1605 labelled it Mallebarre. Captain John Smith in 1615 noted it down as Isle Nawsit; still later its remains bore the more prosaic name of Slut's Bush. Inside this submerged point or bar, Champlain and De Monts entered Nauset harbor in 1605 and passed four days.
During the French visit occurred a much unhappier en- counter than the later Pilgrim First Encounter always remem- bered with capital letters. The French stay began happily enough, for as they approached a friendly Indian appeared, "dancing all over," in Champlain's own words. One gets the first glimpse of Nauset Indians and corn from his account. As to Indians, he saw a girl "with her hair very neatly dressed," and, not surprisingly, "with a skin colored red." The men, he wrote, cut the hair off the top of their heads; their bodies were "well proportioned"; and from their general appearance, he concluded, "they have a good disposition." As to Nauset corn, Champlain saw it growing in July five and a half feet tall; and
-----
Barre
L
L
M
M
PE
H
P
P
M
P
2
2
forse
100. 200.000, 800
3 3 3
-
Les chifres montrer: les brafes d'eau.
À Les deux entrées du port.
B Dunes de table ou les laura. ges tuerent vn Matelot de la barque du Geur de Mous.
C les lieux ou fur la barque du Geur de Mons audir port.
1 H Dunes de fable où il y a in O Dunes de lable.
D Fontaine fur le bort du port. į pint bois & force vignes.
' E Vas noiere detesedantaud.s . I Ifle a'a pointe des dunes
: * port.
; L Les muitous & habanús des fan tages qui cultiver tia terre
F RLilesu.
G porae riviere ou on prend M Ball. s & bancs de falle tant cannte de roiffon. ....
a l'ont. ce que dedas ledit post.
P La cofte de la mer.
Q La barque du Geur de Poi- trincourt quand i. y fut deux aus aprés le Geur de Mons.
R D. Heute des gens du fieur de Poitrincourt.
3
5
THE KINGDOME OF NAUSET
he noted, "some less well advanced, which they plant later"-a practice still followed in Nauset after three and a half centuries by those who like their corn to ripen at an eatable rate.
Testifying to the fertility of Nauset fields, the Frenchman saw Brazilian beans, squashes of varied sizes, tobacco and some roots "having the taste of an artichoke." Trees? Champlain saw woods filled with oaks, nut-trees and "beautiful cypresses, which are of a reddish color and have a very pleasant odor." Cedars-and many may yet be found at the Cedar Bank. The Nausets must have remembered a hard winter for when the French by sign language inquired about weather they indicated, with sand, and by pointing to the Frenchmen's white collars for the color of snow, "that it fell to a depth of a foot."
The unhappy portion of the Nauset visit occurred when several Frenchmen went ashore with large kettles for fresh water. An Indian snatched one of the kettles from a sailor, fled, and outdistanced his pursuer. In the ensuing confusion of shots and arrows, the sailor was killed. Champlain himself, coming ashore in the pinnace, fired his musket and it exploded and nearly killed him, he recorded. Then he simply says, "The dead man was brought in, and some hours later was buried." And thus an unnamed Frenchman, of whom Champlain wrote only the bare fact that he was a carpenter, from St. Malo, was buried in the sands of Nauset in 1605-undoubtedly the first European laid to rest in the soil of Massachusetts.
Others after the French logged Tucker's Terror and Malle- barre, but nearly two decades pass before one finds more in- teresting views of Nauset, its Indians and its corn.
CHAMPLAIN'S 1605 MAP OF NAUSET HARBOR
Note his name for it near the top margin: "Malle Barre." His key to letters on the map, translated, goes: A, The two entrances to the port; B, Sand dunes where the Indians killed a sailor from the barque of the Sieur de Mons; C, The spots or places where the barque of Sieur de Mons anchored in the port; D, fountain or spring on the shore of the port; E, A river emptying in the port; F, Brook or stream; G, small river where quantities of fish are taken (showing an Indian net); H, Sand dunes with small tree growth and heavy vines or underbrush; I, Island at the point of dunes; L. Houses and abodes of Indians who cultivate the soil; M, Sand banks with low spots at the entrance and within said port; O, Sand dunes; P, Sea shore; Q, Anchorage of the barque of the Sieur de Poutrincourt, two years after Sieur de Mons; R, Passengers landing from the Sieur de Poutrincourt.
6
EASTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS
OF NAUSET AND THE PILGRIMS
"By breake of the day" on the nineteenth of November, 1620, from a small vessel of large significance in American his- tory, anxious eyes made out the first landfall of the Pilgrims in the New World. That landfall, a Cape Cod mariner has carefully worked out, was unquestionably Nauset. W. Sears Nickerson even plotted the Mayflower's exact position as E by S nine miles of the site of the present Nauset Coast Guard Sta- tion, when, as William Bradford, the Pilgrim historian and colony governor later wrote, " ... we espied land, which we deemed to be Cape Cod, and so afterward it proved. And the appearance of it much comforted us, especially seeing so goodly a land."
Because of Isle Nauset, Tucker's Terror, Mallebarre, Slut's Bush or whatever one chooses to call it, the Mayflower did not then pause at this goodly land. Instead it turned south to the shoals of Pollock Rip, then north to drop anchor at Province- town. But the Pilgrims visited Nauset before they ever set eyes on what was to become Plymouth. They looked it over while the Mayflower swung at anchor in Provincetown harbor. Seeking a likely place for settlement, the Pilgrims thrice sent out exploring parties, and on the second day out of the third expedition, a band of seventeen men led by Captain Myles Standish camped the night of December 7th, 1620, beside a fire, behind a barricade, near the bay shore of Eastham.
At dawn-"twilight in the morning"-the Indians at- tacked. "The crie of ye Indeans was dreadfull," wrote Brad- ford. "Their note was after this manner:"-and over the cen- turies, although no scholar has ever translated it, the cry still rings rather dreadfully: "Woath, woach, ha ha hach woach."
Although awed and surprised the Pilgrims under the cool leadership of Captain Standish quickly returned shots for In- dian arrows. "There was a lustie man and no whit lesse val- iant, who was thought to bee their Captaine" who stood his ground behind a tree until one of the Pilgrim musket balls "made ye barke or splinters of ye tree fly about his ears, after
WHERE PILGRIMS MET INDIANS-This bronze tablet on a boulder, overlooking the bay shore reads: "On This Spot/Hostile Indians/Had Their /First Encounter /December 8, 1620/Old Style / With /Myles Standish, John Carver, William Bradford, John Tilley, Edward Winslow, John Howland, Edward Tilley, Richard Warren, Stephen Hopkins, Edward Dotey, John Allerton, Thomas English, Mas- ter Mate Clark, Master Gunner Copin and Three Sailors of the Mayflower Company /Provincetown Tercentenary Commission 1620-1920."
which he gave an extraordinary shrike, and away they wente all of them."
Neither Indian nor Pilgrim blood was shed that day, it is pleasant to relate. Happy in their deliverance, the Pilgrims
8
EASTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS
grubbed from the leaves eighteen arrows, "headed with brasse others with Harts horne & others with Eagles clawes" which the Englishmen, perhaps the first souvenir hunters in America, sent back to friends with Captain Jones of the Mayflower. A memorable incident, that First Encounter. Its site has since appropriately been marked by a bronze tablet, where Samoset road meets Cape Cod Bay.
After the encounter the Pilgrims at once embarked in their shallop, sailed along the bay shore until they found a har- bor to their liking, and did not return to Nauset until after their permanent settlement at Plymouth. But they never for- got Nauset, the Indians, nor the Indian corn. Bradford later called the encounter "the Huggerie, that is, Fight, that our dis- coverers had with the Nausites." The Pilgrims visited Nauset often during the next two decades; the Nausets here returned to them the lost Billington boy; and Nauset corn fields again and again yielded life saving food to Plymouth colonists.
OF THE NAUSET INDIANS
Of the Indians who lived here in the "Kingdome of Nau- set" and gave their name to the town for its first years, one may catch only fleeting glimpses in old records. They were the principal tribe of the easterly half of the Cape, their territory included all of the outer Cape, and westerly to Mashpee, and their principal settlement was about Town Cove. To the north, the Pamets, and to the south, the Manomoiets were sub- tribes of the Nauset family. Their chief sachem when the Pil- grims came was Aspinet. Though unfailingly friendly to the Pilgrims, bitter in their memory remained the villainy of Cap- tain Thomas Hunt, a subordinate of Captain John Smith, who in 1615 took captive twenty-seven Indians, seven of them Nau- sets, and sold all into slavery in Spain. Aspinet, portrayed by the Pilgrims as noble and kind, died in 1622, fugitive from Myles Standish and his warriors, then violently putting down an alleged conspiracy against the whites.
After Aspinet no single sachem seemed to lead all the
9
THE KINGDOME OF NAUSET
Nausets, and the next of record bore the prosaic name of George. From Mattaquason, sachem of Monamoyick (Chat- ham) and George, the settlers of Nauset bought the lands on which they founded the town. Of these purchases, one ac- count is never forgotten. "It was demanded who owned Bill- ingsgate?" goes the story. "The Indians said, 'Not any owned it.' "Then,' said the committee, 'that land is ours.' They ans- wered, 'It is.'" The Pilgrims, Thoreau commented, evidently regarded themselves as "Not Any's representatives." Years later an Indian called Lieutenant Anthony claimed title to Billingsgate, collected modestly for it, and gave a name, as well, to Lieutenant's Island, off Wellfleet.
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