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Historic Heures & Spets
CAMBRIDGE
AND NEAR~
BY TOWNS
BY
JW. FRECIE
Go 974.401 M58f 1805045
M. L
REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION
GEN
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01188 7020
450
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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015
https://archive.org/details/historichousessp00free_0
HISTORIC HOUSES AND SPOTS
IN
CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS
AND
NEAR-BY TOWNS
BY
J. W. FREESE PRINCIPAL OF THE WASHINGTON SCHOOL, CAMBRIDGE
" God sifted a whole nation that He might send choice grain over into this wilderness "
BOSTON, U.S.A., AND LONDON GINN & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS The Athenaeum Press 1897
COPYRIGHT, 1897 BY JOHN W. FREESE ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
1805045
PREFACE.
FOR more than twelve years I have been searching out and studying the most ancient homes of Cambridge and other historic towns and cities near by, for the benefit of the pupils under my charge. As we made our annual rounds, the disappearance of old "landmarks" became, year by year, more noticeable, and thus it occurred to me that a favor might be conferred upon many by giving in this modest little work definite location and brief account of the most famous old houses. To the schoolchildren of Cam- bridge and other places this work may be specially useful, supplemented as it is by original and picturesque views, and also by brief references to famous persons with whose names some of the houses are associated.
It has been my conviction for years that the study of local history is the best introduction to the study of more general history, and in this view I have been confirmed by the ever-increasing historical pilgrimages, and above all by the testimony of great men who have made the study of history their profession. Prof. H. B. Adams, of Johns Hopkins University, says :
" History, like charity, begins at home. ... The best students of universal history are those who know some one country or some one subject well. The family, the hamlet, the neighborhood, the community, the parish, the village, town, city, county, and State are historically the ways by which men have approached national and international life."
iii
iv
PREFACE.
The facts I present have not been evolved from "inner consciousness," for, although I have had access to original sources, I have also gleaned freely from Drake's Land- marks and various local histories. My indebtedness is, therefore, easily seen and heartily acknowledged.
So far as both cover the same ground, Historic Houses and Walker's Historical Map may be advantageously used together.
JOHN W. FREESE.
CAMBRIDGE, MASS., 1897.
NOTE .- It is probably true that the writer has overlooked some historic house or spot that, in the mind of the local antiquarian, may be considered important. If so, correspondence with re- spect to it or to any error that may have been made is earnestly solicited, to the end that this book may be made as useful as pos- sible, in case a second edition should be called for.
J. W. F.
CONTENTS.
. -
PAGE
INTRODUCTION
1, 2
ARLINGTON
. 35-41
BEDFORD
59-62
BEVERLY
127, 128
BILLERICA
63-65
BOSTON
. 82-94
CAMBRIDGE
3-34
CHARLESTOWN
139, 140
CHELSEA
118-12I
CONCORD
. 52-58
DANVERS
. 129-131
DEDHAM
106, 107
DORCHESTER .
95-97
HINGHAM
109, 110
IPSWICH
. 134
JAMAICA PLAIN .
104, 105
LEXINGTON
. 42-51 LYNN
136, 137
MALDEN
7I
MEDFORD
67-69
MILTON 7
98-100
66
LANCASTER
vi
CONTENTS.
PAGE
MISCELLANEOUS OLD HOUSES
.
141-144
QUINCY
108
ROXBURY
101-103
SALEM
122-126
SAUGUS .
. 135
SOMERVILLE
. 75-81
STONEHAM
. 74
SUDBURY
III-114
SWAMPSCOTT
· I 38
TOPSFIELD
132, 133
WATERTOWN
. 115-117
WINCHESTER
70
WOBURN
72,73
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
THE ADAMS HOUSES
108
THE GOVERNOR BELLINGHAM MANSION 118
3
" THE BISHOP'S PALACE " 15
THE OLD BOWLDER . 44
THE BRATTLE HOUSE 5
THE BROWN HOUSE . II5
THE PARSON CAPEN HOUSE 132
CHRIST CHURCH (Cambridge) . I3
CHRIST CHURCH (Boston)
93
THE CRADOCK HOUSE
68
THE HOME OF EMERSON 56
THE EVERETT HOUSE 96
THE OLD FAIRBANKS HOUSE 106
THE OLD FIRST CHURCH I24
FANEUIL HALL 88
THE HILL-BOARDMAN HOUSE I35
THE LEE HOUSE 4
THE ABEL LOCKE HOUSE 37
THE LOWELL HOUSE 12
THE LONGFELLOW HOUSE
7
THE OLD MANSE
57
THE AUSTIN HOUSE
viii
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
MASSACHUSETTS HALL
2I
THE MINUTE-MAN 54
THE MUNROE TAVERN 47
THE REBECCA NOURSE HOUSE 129
THE OLD STATE HOUSE 86
THE OLD SOUTH CHURCH 84
THE PIERCE HOUSE
95
THE OLD POWDER HOUSE 79
THE PRATT HOUSE I20
THE PRESIDENT'S HOUSE 17
THE ISAAC ROYALL HOUSE
67
THE RUGGLES HOUSE
II
THE SALTONSTALL-WHIPPLE HOUSE I34
" SUNDAY SCHOOL " HOUSE I28
BENJAMIN THOMPSON HOUSE 72
THE SAMUEL TUFTS HOUSE 76
THE VASSALL MONUMENT ·
9
THE VOSE HOUSE 98
WARD HOUSE 123
THE WASHINGTON ELM 18
THE . WATERHOUSE HOUSE 20
THE WAYSIDE INN III
A WOLF PIT 136
THE AMOS WYMAN HOUSE 64
·
HISTORIC HOUSES AND SPOTS
IN
CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS, AND NEAR-BY TOWNS.
THE citizens of Cambridge, now over 80,000 in number, might well lay claim to several unique distinctions for the city of which they are so justly proud. First, it must be remembered that Cambridge is the seat of the oldest and most distinguished university in America.
The opportunity thus offered for broad learning and gen- erous culture is the probable reason for a second distinc- tion : viz., that Cambridge has lately become also the seat of Radcliffe College. Here are also two divinity schools besides the one directly connected with the University. The spirit of emulation fostered by these institutions of learning, together with the influence of several excellent preparatory schools, has undoubtedly had a most beneficial effect upon the public schools and should receive a measure of credit for their efficiency. The public schools of Cam- bridge are noted for their excellence. As Cambridge was contemporaneous with Boston in her settlement, and was also for a time the seat of government, she has left the im- press of her hand upon the fundamental law of our beloved Commonwealth.
Her soil was also the first rallying-point of patriots to repel British aggression, and here Washington first unsheathed his sword in defence of our liberties.
In fact it is a matter of some surprise that, as Lexington and Concord have contended with some spirit as to which was entitled to the larger share of honor for the glorious
2
HISTORIC HOUSES AND SPOTS IN CAMBRIDGE.
deeds of April 19, 1775, Cambridge should not also have put in her claim. She could have done so with a good show of reason, for the first detachment of British troops for Concord, as well as their reinforcements, passed through Cambridge. Those of the early morning were pursued the whole distance to Concord by a company of Cambridge men, about seventy in number, who "fully participated in the perils and the glory of that day." A company of fifty minute-men, twenty-five of whom were Cambridge men, had previously been formed and were also actively engaged on that day. "The conflict has generally been called the ' Concord Fight' or the 'Lexington Battle'; but the carnage was greater in this town than in any other, - greater, indeed, than in all others combined, if it be true, as has been stated by a diligent investigator, that 'at least twenty-two of the Americans, and probably more than twice that number of the British, fell in West Cambridge.' Four native citizens were killed near the Jacob Watson House (now standing) in North Cambridge. Thus we have twenty-six, or more than half of all the Americans whose lives were sacrificed on that memorable day."
Cambridge bore her part well not only on April 19, but during the siege of Boston. With a fort at Lechmere's Point, another - Fort Washington -on Waverly Street (restored and enclosed by the city with a costly iron fence), and another at Captain Patrick's island, the town may be said to have been a fortified camp.
Her eminent citizens, native and adopted, are indeed a crowning distinction. They need not be mentioned. Every- body knows them.
Lastly, Cambridge is the mother of towns, and is proud of her children. At one time her territory comprised Brighton, Newton, Arlington, Lexington, and Billerica.
1
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Lee.
3
Cambridge.
16.51
THE AUSTIN HOUSE.
This interesting old house is now numbered 21 Linnæan Street and was built, in 1657, by Deacon Jonathan Cooper and continued to belong to his descendants for three gen- erations. In the will of Walter, of the third generation, we find these quaint specifications: "I will that my beloved wife, Martha, should have out of my movable property, 40 pounds, lawful money, also my silver cup and my Mare and chair and the best cow and one of the pigs. . . . I also will that she should have the west half of my dwelling house and the liberty of the ovens in t'other room."
It became successively the property of Jonathan Hill, Deacon Frost, and, in 1807, of the late Mrs. Austin, whose husband, Rev. Mr. Seiders, took her name. She died, in 1885, childless.
4
Cambridge.
THE LEE HOUSE.
This, with one possible exception (the Austin House), is the oldest house now standing in Cambridge.
At the beginning of the war with England it was owned and occupied by Judge Joseph Lee, a rather lukewarm royalist, who lived in Boston during the siege but was allowed to return to his home after the war, where he died in 1802. Of all the historic houses of Cambridge, this, to my mind, if judged by its venerable outward appearance, has the strongest claim to the title of "antique."
It is on Brattle Street, near Appleton Street, and was probably built before 1660.
5
Cambridge.
THE BRATTLE HOUSE.
This is on Brattle Street (formerly called Tory Row), near Brattle Square. It seems first to have been occupied by a William Brattle, who " was successively physician, preacher, and lawyer." During the siege of Boston it was the head- quarters of General Mifflin, who on one occasion entertained here the accomplished Abigail Adams, wife of John Adams, presenting to her his eccentric friend General Charles Lee, together with his (Lee's) dog " Spada."
After the war the property was restored to William Brattle's son, Thomas Brattle, who expended much time and money in cultivating choice flowers and fruits on the grounds that extended from Brattle Square to Ash Street and to the river. For a time Margaret Fuller lived here.
6
Cambridge.
THE GOVERNOR BELCHER HOUSE.
This house is on Brattle Street, corner of Hawthorn. It was built about 1700, and came into the possession of Jona- than Belcher in 1717. He afterwards became Sir Jonathan, and was governor of Massachusetts and New Hampshire from 1730 till 1741.
In 1736 it became the property of Colonel John Vassall, who sold it to his brother, Major Henry, whose widow, Penelope, sister of Isaac Royall, lived in it at the beginning of hostilities. Here Dr. Benjamin Church, the first dis- covered American traitor who was condemned to exile, was for a time a prisoner. The vessel on which he sailed for the West Indies was not heard from afterward.
This house was probably used as a hospital early in the war of the Revolution. The owner of the house, Mrs. James, states that on one of the old doors may still be seen the name B. Church, Jr., heavily cut in the wood.
7
Cambridge.
THE LONGFELLOW HOUSE.
This Colonial mansion was commonly known as the Craigie House, but is now usually pointed out as the Long- fellow House. It is numbered 105 Brattle Street, and was built, about 1759, by Colonel John Vassall the younger. He, being a tory, fled at the beginning of the Revolution. Soon after his flight the house was occupied by Colonel John Glover with his regiment. Washington took posses- sion July 15, 1775, and left it in April, 1776.
Then in succession came Nathaniel Tracy, Thomas Russell, Andrew Craigie (who entertained here the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria), Jared Sparks, Edward Everett, and Joseph E. Worcester of dictionary fame.
Longfellow first roomed here in 1837 and afterward in 1843. After Mrs. Craigie's death he came into full posses- sion of the house. Here nearly all his works were written.
8
THE LONGFELLOW HOUSE.
Longfellow's feeling for the old Colonial house was one of the deepest interest and veneration. Miss Longfellow says, " He was never willing to make the slightest change in even the smallest particular, even for comfort or convenience." It stands to-day as it was originally built by Colonel Vassall, with the enlargements by Dr. Craigie. The poet sings :
Once, ah! once, within these walls, One whom memory oft recalls, The Father of his Country dwelt. And yonder meadows broad and damp The fires of the besieging camp Encircled with a burning belt. Up and down these echoing stairs, Heavy with the weight of cares, Sounded his majestic tread ; Yes, within this very room Sat he in those hours of gloom, Weary both in heart and head.
LONGFELLOW.
The room occupied by Washington was a large second- story front room, facing southeast. The room underneath it was used by Washington for his study and later by Longfellow for the same purpose.
Once, during the siege of Boston, Washington entertained Franklin here, concerning whom, on this occasion, General Greene said :
" Attention watched his lips, And conviction closed his periods."
9
Cambridge.
THE VASSALL MONUMENT.
It is in Christ Church burying-ground, Massachusetts Avenue, near Harvard Square. Its horizontal (red sand- stone) slab has cut upon its upper surface a vase and an image of the sun, - a hint of the origin of the name Vassall (vassol).
If rumor can be credited, two slaves were buried here, one at the head, the other at the foot, of the tomb of Madame Vassall.
In the village churchyard she lies, Dust is in her beautiful eyes ; No more she breathes, nor feels, nor stirs ; At her feet and at her head Lies a slave to attend the dead, But their dust is as white as hers.
LONGFELLOW.
IO
Cambridge.
THE LECHMERE OR SEWALL-RIEDESEL HOUSE.
This house formerly stood on Brattle Street, corner of Sparks, but is now the third from the corner, and has been remodeled in recent years.
It was first occupied by Richard Lechmere, former owner of Lechmere's Point, East Cambridge, and afterwards by Jonathan Sewall, both royalists. The spot where it formerly stood should be visited for the sake of the beautiful linden trees so warmly spoken of by Baroness Riedesel. The house was assigned for her use and the baron's after the surrender at Saratoga, in September, 1777, and is often called the Riedesel House. The lindens must have been good-sized trees even then to have elicited encomiums from the baron- ess at a time when she had so little cause for enthusiasm, her husband being a prisoner.
II
Cambridge.
1
THE RUGGLES HOUSE.
It is now 175 Brattle Street, and is said to take its name from its builder, one Mr. Ruggles, the last of the king's foresters in America. It descended to his brother, Captain George Ruggles, but passed into the hands of Thomas Fayerweather before the Revolutionary War.
It then became the property of Mr. William Wells, in the possession of whose grandchildren, the Newells, it now is. Mr. Wells had here a private school for boys, three of whom at least have since earned more than a national reputation. Reference is made to James Russell Lowell, William Wet- more Story, and Thomas Wentworth Higginson.
The Ruggles House has a dignity and charm peculiar to itself and is " beautiful for situation."
12
Cambridge.
CHRIST CHURCH.
" We love the venerable house Our fathers built to God : In heaven are kept their grateful vows; Their dust endears the sod."
Christ Church (on Garden Street, opposite the common) was built 1759-1761, and was opened for public worship October 15, 1761, the Rev. East Apthorp being the first minister.
On New Year's Eve, 1775, General Washington held service here, Colonel William Palfrey reading the service. Connecticut troops were quartered here about the time of the battle of Bunker Hill. The body of an English officer, Lieutenant Richard Brown, killed on Prospect Hill, Somer- ville, was placed beneath this church, where is also the tomb of the Vassall family.
I3
CHRIST CHURCH.
The lead organ-pipes were melted into bullets by the soldiers, the church being tory property. Two pieces of a communion service - a silver flagon and a covered cup - given to King's Chapel, Boston, are now the property of this church.
Our ancient church ! its lowly tower, Beneath the loftier spire, Is shadowed when the sunset hour Clothes the tall shaft in fire ; It sinks beyond the distant eye Long ere the glittering vane, High wheeling in the western sky, Has faded o'er the plain.
OLIVER WENDELL HOLMES.
14
. Cambridge.
THE LOWELL HOUSE.
This interesting old mansion, which is now commonly known as Elmwood, is on Elmwood Avenue, near Mt. Auburn.
It was probably built about the year 1760, and seems to have been owned by John Stratton, of whose heirs it was purchased by Lieutenant-Governor Oliver. It was at one time the home of Governor Elbridge Gerry, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, and vice- president of the United States from 1813 to 1814. After the battle of Bunker Hill it was used as a hospital.
It finally became the property of the Rev. Charles Lowell, father of James Russell Lowell, who was born here February 22, 1819. Lowell's study was on the left of the entrance hall, - a large room with its window overlooking "the long green levels among the trees on the lawn." The room back of this, with shelves lining the walls, was used as the poet's library.
15
Cambridge.
"THE BISHOP'S PALACE."
It is 10 Linden Street, and was built, about 1761, by the Rev. East Apthorp, the first minister of Christ Church, and received its title in derision from his persecuting enemies.
It is one of the finest of the old houses of Cambridge. After Mr. Apthorp it became the property of a Mr. John Borland of Boston, who is said to have built the third story the better to accommodate his domestic slaves. It served both as headquarters and barracks for General Putnam and his Connecticut troops till about the time of the battle of Bunker Hill.
After the surrender at Saratoga it became the residence of Burgoyne.
It is now (1897) the home of Professor William H. Niles of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. The house, set in a large garden, is grand in proportions and architect- ure, and, as has been justly said, " is fitted in every respect to bear the name which still clings to it."
16
Cambridge.
THE HOLMES HOUSE.
This was a gambrel-roofed house supposed to have been built about 1700. It stood on Cambridge Street, second house from the corner of Massachusetts Avenue, and was torn down about a dozen years ago. It was conveyed to one Jabez Fox in 1707 and by his heirs to Jonathan Hastings and finally to Rev. Abiel Holmes, father of Oliver Wendell Holmes, who was born here August 29, 1809. It was the headquarters of General Ward and, after the battle of Lex- ington, of the Committee of Safety and for a short time of Washington. Here Benedict Arnold received his commis sion as colonel, and on the green in front were assembled the troops to listen to prayer, by President Langdon of the College, invoking divine aid in their behalf, preparatory to the battle of Bunker Hill.
The poem " Old Ironsides " was written here.
17
Cambridge.
THE PRESIDENT'S HOUSE.
This quaint old dwelling on Massachusetts Avenue, Har- vard Square, is also known as Wadsworth House, and now contains the office of the bursar of the College. It was the home of the presidents of the University for a hundred and twenty-three years, 1726-1849, - President Wadsworth being the first occupant; the others were Holyoke, Locke, Langdon, Willard, Webber, Kirkland, Quincy, and Everett. It was intended as headquarters for Washington. He was escorted from Watertown the 2d of July, 1775, by a com- pany of horse and a large body of mounted civilians to the President's House. For some reason or other he stayed but two weeks and then transferred his effects to the Vassall House, which he seems to have preferred.
In this house the royal governors were entertained on occasions of anniversary celebrations, as were many other persons of dignity and note. Some of the beautiful elms that now cast their shadows upon the old house are said to have been planted by President Willard.
18
Cambridge.
AF
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THE WASHINGTON ELM.
UNDER THIS TREE
WASHINGTON
FIRST TOOK COMMAND
OF THE
AMERICAN ARMY
JULY 3d, 1775.
19
THE WASHINGTON ELM.
A hint as to the great age of this tree is given in the fact that Washington had a platform placed within its branches, from which he was enabled to overlook the army encamped on the common.
It is visited annually by a large number of persons from all parts of this country and from abroad, who gaze upon its massive form with mingled feelings of awe and admira- tion. It is now tenderly cared for, and though the vicissi- tudes of time have impressed upon it the indelible marks of decay, it is likely to last for many years to come.
" A goodly elm of noble girth That thrice the human span - While on their variegated course The constant seasons ran - Through gale and hail and fiery bolt Has stood erect as man."
20
Cambridge.
THE WATERHOUSE HOUSE.
This well-preserved and interesting old house, built in 1753, is numbered 7 Waterhouse Street. It was for many years the home of Dr. Benjamin Waterhouse, who was born at Newport, R. I., in 1754, studied in London, Edinburgh, and Leyden, and was "professor of the theory and practice of physic in the medical school of Harvard College " for thirty years. He introduced the art of vaccination into the colonies, for which he was much persecuted.
The house contains many historic curios, among which may be mentioned a "six-month" clock, the gift of the stamp officer, Peter Oliver, whose granddaughter, Elizabeth, was the doctor's first wife ; also two portraits, - one of the doctor, by Frothingham, and the other of his mother at the age of ninety, by Washington Allston, at the time a student in Harvard College and an occupant of a room in the house.
The present occupant of the house is Miss Mary H. Ware, daughter of the Rev. William Ware.
21
Cambridge.
MASSACHUSETTS HALL.
Massachusetts Hall (west side of the college yard, south of the Johnston gateway) is the oldest of the college build- ings proper now standing, and was erected in 1720, during the presidency of John Leverett.
Holden Chapel is frequently, but erroneously, given the honor of being the oldest, but it was erected in 1745, Edward Holyoke being president. Massachusetts Hall has been the college home of not a few who afterwards became famous. Among these there is one at least whose memory it is a delight to cherish and revere, - Judge Joseph Story, first Dane Professor of law at Harvard, who was at the same time Associate Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States.
22
Cambridge.
THE HICKS HOUSE.
The Hicks House, which is now standing on Dunster Street, corner of Winthrop, was built by John Hicks, who was killed on the day of the battle of Lexington, and whose name is on the monument in the burying-ground adjoining Christ Church.
The spot where he fell is marked with a tablet on Massa- chusetts Avenue, near Spruce Street :
AT THIS PLACE
APRIL 19, 1775
FOUR CITIZENS WERE KILLED
BY BRITISH SOLDIERS
RETREATING FROM LEXINGTON.
23
Cambridge.
THE MARGARET FULLER HOUSE.
The house in which Margaret Fuller was born, May 23, 1810, is still standing on the corner of Cherry and Eaton Streets, Cambridgeport, and is visited annually by many persons. America thus far, probably, has not produced a woman intellectually her superior. She was noted as a teacher, as an editor, and as a writer and literary critic. In 1847 she became the wife of the Marquis d'Ossoli of Italy. The vessel on which she was returning to her native land with her husband and young son was wrecked within sight of it, she being among the number lost. Emerson and Hawthorne were her warm friends, and she visited the latter when he was living in the community at Brook Farm, Roxbury.
24
Cambridge.
THE HOME OF WASHINGTON ALLSTON.
The house in which Washington Allston, the celebrated painter, lived, while a resident of Cambridge, is not now standing, but was formerly on Magazine Street, corner of Auburn, his studio being nearly opposite. He was born in South Carolina, November 5, 1779, and showed a love for art at an early age. He entered Harvard in 1796, and went to Europe in 1801. In Rome he studied four years, acquiring the name of "the American Titian." He is also known as America's greatest historical painter, many of his most costly works being now possessed by wealthy Boston families. He was twice married, his second wife being a daughter of Chief Justice Francis Dana of Dana Hill, Cam- bridge. He died in Cambridge on July 9, 1843.
25
Cambridge.
TABLETS.
Since the next best thing to knowing the history of a place is the knowledge of its location, historic spots of inter- est, which are now marked by tablets, will be designated.
HERE STOOD
THE FIRST SCHOOLHOUSE
OF CAMBRIDGE BUILT IN 1648.
The tablet with the above inscription is on the west side of Holyoke Street, opposite the home of the Hasty Pudding Club.
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