USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Charlestown > Historical sketch of Charlestown, in the county of Middlesex, and commonwealth of Massachusetts : read to an assembly of citizens at the opening of Washington Hall, Nov. 16, 1813 > Part 1
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Facsimile reprint, published by Geo. 11. Elliott of Lowell , Mas, about 1880.
AN
HISTORICAL SKETCH
OF
CHARLESTOWN,
IN THE
COUNTY OF MIDDLESEX,
AND
COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS,
READ TO AN ASSEMBLY OF CITIZENS
. AT THE OPENING OF
WASHINGTON HALL,
NOV. 16, 1813.
BY JOSIAH BARTLETT, M. D.
BOSTON :
PRINTED BY JOHN ELIOT,
No. 5, Court-Street,
1814.
.
THE following ADDRESS was prepared, with notes, for the MASSACHUSETTS HISTORICAL SOCIETY; and this pamphlet, copied from the second volume of the second series of its collections, page 163, is respectfully inscribed to the CITIZENS OF CHARLESTOWN, in testimony of the author's gratitude for THEIR various and repeated tokens of confidence and esteem.
May 9, 1814.
-
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PULL -WANY
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3956
1
SKETCH OF CHARLESTOWN.
THERE are periods in society, as well as in the life of an individual, when it is peculiarly proper, by a review of past occurrences, to trace the progress of improve- ment, and excite such feelings, as may lead to future usefulness. On this occasion, when we are convened in such auspicious circumstances, and may rationally esti- mate the advantages of a laudable exertion for ourselves and our posterity, I deem it appropriate to attempt a general sketch of our municipal history, and offer such observations as comport with the design of our present meeting.
Among the intrepid advocates of civil and religious freedom, who encountered the dangers of the ocean, and the greater danger of the wilderness, were nine or ten persons,* who, in the summer of 1628, travelled by land from Naumkeak, now called Salem, and, under the au- thority of governour Endicot, constituted this placet an English settlement. They here found an "English thatched house pallisadoed," and occupied by Thomas Walford, a smith by trade, of whom no particular account is preserved. By the Indians, who were very numerous, it was called Mishawum, and their chief was John Saga- more, by whose consent these enterprising travellers set- tled themselves in the neighbourhood of TOWN HILL,
* Among whom Ralph Sprague with his brethren Richard and William are particularly named in the record.
t Charlestown, lying in lat. 42°, 23' N. and long. 4" E. from the meridian of Cambridge, is of an irregular form, about 7 1-4 miles long, and I mile in average width. Its bounds (formerly very extensive) were established by the General Court, March 3, 1635. It now lies S. W. on Cambridge, N. W. on Woburn, N. W. and N. E. on Mistick river, and S. E. on Charles river, from which its name is derived. The natural divisions are distinguished by within and without the neck. The first includes a peninsula, formed by Mistick and Charles rivers, somewhat of an oval form, about a mile and a quarter long, and half a mile wide, upon which the town is built, and which is joined to the main by a narrow isth- mus. The second division contains a great quantity of fertile land, rendered valuable from its vicinity to an excellent market.
4
HISTORICAL SKETCH
which was fortified* the year following, against invasions, with which the English were threatened.
On the margin of that memorable eminence we are now assembled; it has been repeatedly a citadel of de- fence, a resort for the instruction of youth, and devoted to the service of the Almighty. Here our fathers resisted the threatenings of untutored savages ; here they taught the rudiments of science, and projected measures for their future happiness ; here, if tradition is correct, they worshipped beneath the shade of a venerable oak, and perhaps anticipated a period like the present, when their descendants, on the same spot, in a spacious temple,t should pay their weekly adorations to the GREAT CREA- TOR; and in a convenient edifice,¿ dedicated to patriot- ism and philanthropy, should gratefully respect their memories, and cultivate the principles they so assiduously supported.
In 1629,§ Gov. John Winthrop arrived here with fifteen hundred persons, and resided several months,|| during which time a church was gathered, which was the second in Massachusetts. The governour and other publick officers were accommodated with a building called the great house, [ on the westerly side of our pre- sent market square, and near the late residence of the Hon. James Russell ** deceased. The remainder resided
* This was "performed by all hands, viz. of men, women and children, who labour in digging and building till the work is done."
t The Congregational meeting house. # Washington Hall.
§ The arrival of Gov. Winthrop is stated by himself, Dudley, Mather, Holmes, and others, to have been in 1630; but the original town record, vol. I. page 3. makes it in 1629, and the figures in the margin and text are perfectly plain.
M "The first Court of Assistants was held in Charlestown harbour, on board the Arabella, Aug. 23, 1630, present, Gov. Winthrop, Dep. Gov. Dudley, Sir R. Saltonstall, Messrs Ludlow, Rossiter, Nowell, Sharp, Pynchon, and Bradstreet." The Hon. Simon Bradstreet was governour in 1679, and his descendants have continued here with reputation to the present period.
{ Built in 1628, on account of the patentees, by the Hon. Thomas Graves, who planned the fort on town hill, and was appointed to " moddle and lay out the form of the town with streets," and to "measure out to each inhabitant a two acre lot to plant upon." He is spoken of as " a person skilful in mines of iron, lead, cop- per, mineral salt, and allum, fortification of all sorts, surveying, &c." He was an Assistant with Gov. Endicot, and appointed a sea commander by Oliver Crom- well. His descendants were citizens of repute, and sustained important offices.
** The ancestors of Mr. Russell were among the first settlers of the town, and enjoyed the most important legislative, judicial and municipal offices. He died in 1798, aged 83, and was a descendant of the fourth generation, who successively,
5
OF CHARLESTOWN.
in cottages, booths and tents. These persons, having experienced great sufferings from a variety of causes,* became so unhealthy, that many died soon after their ar- rival, in consequence of which, the governour, with many of the survivors, removed over Charles river to Shawmut, which they called Boston, and others engaged in the set- tlement of Watertown, Cambridge, and other places, leaving but seventeen male inhabitants.
In 1632,t the small pox was very destructive to the natives, which rendered the lives of the emigrants more comfortable, and hastened an increase of their country- men, who, early in 1633, amounted to fifty eight, most of whom had families. At this period a church was again gathered ; the house; which Gov. Winthrop had occu- pied was purchased as a place of worship, and used as such till 1716, when a meeting house§ was erected on the northerly part of the square.
In 1634, the town was organized, delegates were elect- ed to the General Court, selectmen|| and other officers were appointed; and from that time it gradually popu-
- among other places of great trust, sustained the office of assistant or counsellor in the province. His son, the Hon. Thomas Russell of Boston, an eminent merchant and philanthropist, was a native of Charlestown, and was also a representative of Boston, and a counsellor. He died April 8, 1796, aged 56. An eulogy on his character was delivered May 4 following, by John Warren, M. D. and is published.
* It is said that but one spring of fresh water was then to be found, and that , upon the beach, near the present scite of the state prison. However this may be, no town is now better supplied.
t The winter of this year was severe, and there was a scarcity of provisions. In the spring a vessel arrived from Virginia with Indian corn, which sold for ten shillings a bushel.
John Sales was the first inhabitant convicted of theft. He was publickly pun- ished, and " all he had was taken to make restitution."
# "April, 1633. Agreed and concluded by the inhabitants that the sum of ten pounds be collected of the said inhabitants, and be paid to John Winthrop, Esq. governour, and the rest of the gentlemen interested in the great house built in anno 1628, by Mr. Graves and the company's servants; which is for the pur- chase of the said house, now the publick meeting house in this town ; all which was accordingly done." This is a specimen of the early records of the town, which are very minute and entertaining to those who acquire a knowledge of the wri- ting of that period. The town clerk was Mr. Increase Nowell, who was after- ward secretary to the colony.
§ This building was 72 feet long, 52 feet wide, and 34 feet (three stories) high, with a steeple. The cost stated at 2000 pounds.
" The number of "deputys at court" this year was three ; and of selectmen, eleven. The names of persons admitted inhabitants were recorded, and on the 8th of March, 1635, it was agreed, that "whosoever is warned to appear at any town meeting forty eight hours before the time appointed, and shall fail, unless the occasion be extraordinary, shall forfeit and pay eighteen pence."
6
HISTORICAL SKETCH
lated and improved, until a large part of it fell a sacrifice to the ravages of war.
On the state of the town during an hundred and forty seven years to this event, it may be remarked, that the inhabitants were industrious, sober, and cultivated good principles. Publick worship was regularly attend- ed, schools were as well regulated as the state of society would allow. Navigation, which consisted principally in the whale fishery and West India trade, though not ex- tensive, was prosperous; the mechanick arts were cher- ished, and advantages were derived from ship-building, the manufactory of rum, loaf sugar, candles, leather and potashes.
Judicial courts were early instituted, and continued until the revolutionary war. A dry dock was made in 1678, above the present draw bridge, near the navy yard, and was the only one in the country. The small pox* and other contagious diseases have generally prevailed when they did in the metropolis; and there have been several firest distressing to individuals, the most remark- able of which was in 1749, occasioned by the villany of three negro servants, who were convicted of poisoning their master,¿ and two of whom were executed, the other becoming evidence for the king.
A ferry,§ communicating with Boston, which was re- puted to be the best regulated of any in the province,
* The last spread of the small pox was in the autumn of 1792. The number inoculated was 1334 (879 inhabitants and 455 strangers) of which 9 died. 12 had the disease the natural way, of whom 5 died. Vaccination is now generally prac- tised.
t There is an account of several fires in Charlestown, during the eighteenth century, in the Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society, Vol. I, second series, p. 81, &c.
# Capt. John Codman, a respectable citizen, and an active military officer, de- stroyed by arsenick. The servants were named Mark, Phillis, and Phæbe, who were favourite domesticks. The man procured the drug, and the females admin- istered it. Mark was hanged, and Phillis was burnt at the usual place of execution in Cambridge. Phæbe, who was said to have been the most culpable, became evidence against the others. She was transported to the West Indies. The body of Mark was suspended in irons on the northerly side of Cambridge road, about a quarter of a mile above our peninsula, and the gibbet remained till a short time before the revolution. Are there any other instances of burning or gibbeting in the annals of New-England ?
§ This ferry was first rented to Edward Converse for forty shillings a year. In 1640, it was given to Harvard College, and afforded a handsome revenuc. The bridge at the same place now pays it two hundred pounds a year.
7
OF CHARLESTOWN.
was established in 1631 ; and one was opened without the peninsula, to communicate with Malden, in 1640. There is now at this place a convenient bridge,* erected in 1787.
On the retreat of the English troops from Concord, April 19, 1775, a great part of the inhabitantst of this town abandoned it, and they were dispersed in various parts of the country. On the 17th of June of that year, the Americans began a breastwork on Breed's Hill, which was discovered at Boston the following morning, when a severe cannonade commenced. In the afternoon an attack was made by the British, who, after a severe conflict, obtained a dear bought victory .¿ During the battle the town was set on fire, when the meeting house, a court house, prison, county house, two school houses, and a work house,§ with upwards of three hundred and eighty dwellings and other buildings, valued on oath at five hundred and twenty three thousand dollars, were totally consumed, and two thousand persons, being the whole population of the peninsula, were reduced from affluence and mediocrity to poverty and exile.
Connected with these solemn transactions was the death of the Hon. Joseph Warren,|| a distinguished states-
* Malden Bridge was finished in six months, and cost 5300 pounds. The prop- erty is vested in 120 shares. It is 2400 feet long, including the abutments, 32 feet wide, has a convenient draw, and eight lamps. The Mistick river, over which it passes, is, at high water, 23 feet deep. The property is perpetual, but the toll is subject to alteration at the expiration of fifty years. The president is the Hon. John Phillips of Boston.
t James Miller, aged 66, and Edward Barber, aged 14, were killed on that day.
# The Americans engaged in this enterprize were commanded by Col. Pres- cott, and stated at 1500. The British (being the flower of the army) were com- manded by Gen. Howe, and stated at 3000. The loss of the former, in killed and wounded, was 450, and of the latter 1050. For an accurate account of the tran- saction, see Marshall's Life of Washington, vol. II p. 226.
§ The scite of the meeting house was on the northerly part of the square, in front of the house now owned by the Hon. Matthew Bridge. The court house was on the easterly part of the square, in front of the estate belonging to the heirs of the Hon. Thomas Russell, deceased. One of the school houses, which was built for a town house, and on which were the town bell and clock, was on the spot where the congregational meeting house now stands; the other, with the prison, county house, and work house, were on the margin of town hill, in the vicinity of the present school house.
# The day previous to the battle, Warren, at the age of 35, was appointed a major general, and acted on this occasion as a volunteer. He was buried on the field; but was afterward removed, and publickly interred at Boston, where an oration was pronounced, April 8, 1776, by Perez Morton, Esq. It was published.
8
HISTORICAL SKETCH
man, an eloquent orator, and an intrepid warrior, who fell an early sacrifice on the altar of freedom.
During the siege of Boston, that division of our terri- tory, which we distinguished by without the neck, and where there are several vestiges of fortifications,* was principally occupied by the American troops, and the in- habitants were consequently subject to considerable in- conveniences, which it has been supposed were fully compensated in 1778, by a temporary residence of the British and Hessian army, captured at Saratoga; whose necessaries and conveniences were purchased with spe- cie, whilst the circulating medium of the country was a depreciated paper currency. This section was exclu- sively agricultural, with the exception of the alewife fish- ery at proper seasons, until within a few years, since which the manufactory of bricks has afforded employ- ment for many of the citizens. Its growth has been gradual ; it has furnished a full proportion of the town officers, and has derived peculiar advantagest from its connexion with the peninsula.
On the removal of the seat of war in 1776 many of the former inhabitants returned from their exile,¿ and commenced according to their respective means, to re- pair their waste places. A few of the number were able to erect convenient dwellings, whilst others, like their hardy predecessors, were only covered with temporary shelters. Those, who can call to mind the occurrences of that interesting era, must recollect their mingled emo- tions of despondency and pleasure. The only objects that retained their former appearance were desolated streets, and the grave yard of their ancestors and rela- tives ; but by a consideration of mutual sufferings, it was the endeavour of every individual to meliorate the con-
* There are several hills in this town, famed in the American annals, the most of which command extensive prospects. On the peninsula are Bunker's and Breed's on the N. E. side; and on the S. W. are Town hill (which has been much reduced) and a small hill used as a burying ground. Without the neck are Prospect, Winter, Plowed and Cobble hills (on this is the seat of the late Joseph Barrell, Esq.) with three others of less note, called Quarry, Reed's and Walnut hills.
# Particularly in schools, and the high ways.
# Mr. Timothy Thompson, jun. was the first person born on the peninsula, af- ter the town was opened; and Susanna Hooper (now Mrs. Haven) was the first female.
9
OF CHARLESTOWN.
dition of his neighbour; to cultivate harmony, and unite for the benefit of the whole. "A block-house, erected by the enemy, at the place* originally fortified against the natives, was appropriated to the discharge of our civil duties, to the publick services of religion, and to the education of youth. Here, uninfluenced by political dissentions, we gave our first suffragest for a chief magistrate and legislators, under the constitu- tion of this Commonwealth; when, in the true spirit of republicanism, we exulted in the commencement of a government, achieved by our ablest statesmen, and cal- culated to promote our own happiness with that of our posterity.
At the expiration of nine years to 1785, the buildings on the peninsula were one hundred and fifty one, and the population was five hundred and fifty. The buildings without the neck, were one hundred and twenty eight, and the population four hundred and forty nine, making but a small difference at that time, in the geographical divisions of the town. The present number of inhab- itants, including temporary residents§ for employment, is nearly six thousand, of which about five-sixths reside on the peninsula, where the natural population has been unusual|| from a constant accession of young families. The buildings have increased in twenty eight years from one hundred and fifty one, many of which were tempo- rary and are abolished, to the present state of respecta- bility and convenience, which far exceeds our former situation.
The principal streets were widened, straightened and improved, and the market square was regularly laid out,
* Town Hill.
t Sept. 4, 1780. The votes for Governour were 48. Lieut. Governour 39. Senators 38. In 1813, the votes for Governour were 821. Lieut. Governour 821. Senators 819.
# The buildings and inhabitants were numbered at this time, when a concise account of the town, was published in part, in the Boston Magazine; and after- ward entire in No. 1 and 2 of the American Recorder (Dec. 9th and 13th, 1805) a newspaper printed at Charlestown, but which was not long continued. That publication was prepared by the author of this sketch, and embraces some of the facts to that period, which are here stated.
§ Estimated at 900, including women and children.
Il It appears by extracts from the new year's sermons of the Rev. Dr. Morse, that in the last 25 years, the number of births on the peninsula, was 3225, and of deaths 1510.
2
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HISTORICAL SKETCH
soon after the opening of the town in 1776 ; to facilitate which, a lottery was granted, and the state taxes were remitted for seven years. These with a brief, for assist- ance to erect a meeting house, and a partial support to the aged and infirm, who were reduced by the conflagra- tion, were the only instances of legislative aid for the sufferings of the inhabitants in the cause of their coun- try ; though a seasonable application on this subject, was respectfully submitted to the continental Congress, by a committee* appointed for that purpose.
Our publick buildings are four meeting houses, five school houses, in one of which is a town hall ; a powder magazine belonging to the Commonwealth, and an alms house.t The present number of dwellings,¿ stores,
* Hon. Nathaniel Gorham and Thomas Russell.
By the report of a committee of Congress dated Philadelphia, May 16, 1777, they sympathize with the sufferers, and consider the estimate of damages to be very moderate; but they "apprehend that if Congress were to pay that valua- tion, claims much more extensive, and of a similar nature, will be made by other sufferers, and subject the United States to the payment of sums of money which, in the present exigencies of their affairs, cannot be spared from the support of the present just and necessary war."
In 1784 Mr. Gorham, at the request of the sufferers went to England to solicit aid; but this mission (which was disapproved of by many) like that to Philadel- phia, was unsuccessful.
t A Congregational meeting house, 72 feet long, 52 feet wide and 27 feet high to the eaves, erected in 1783, and widened to 84 feet in 1804. It has a large tow- er, and elegant steeple. A bell of 1300 weight (which has been twice broken and replaced) was presented by Messrs. Champion, Dickason and Burgis, merchants of London, and an elegant clock, by the Hon. Thomas Russell. These are the property of the town. A convenient chapel, 26 feet long, 21 wide and 10 1-2 high, for parish and church meetings, lectures, &c was built by subscriptions in the church in 1809, on part of a valuable parsonage lot, bequeathed in 1703, by Mr. Richard Sprague.
A Baptist meeting house, 65 feet long, 50 feet wide and 29 feet high, erected in 1800. It is handsome and convenient, with a cupola and bell, but was relin- quished by the society for whom it was built, and now belongs to an individual.
A Baptist meeting house, 65 feet long, 50 feet wide, and 14 feet high, built with brick in 1810. It is a well finished, respectable edifice, and belongs to the society who occupied the building above described.
A Universal meeting house, 62 feet long, 62 feet wide, and 34 feet high, built with brick in 1810. It is commodious, and handsomely finished.
Two of the school houses are built with brick, two stories high, and are on the peninsula; the three others are of wood, and properly located without the neck. There is a building erected by Major Timothy Walker for an Academy, which is kept by Oliver Brown, A. M.
The Magazine on Quarry hill, is a strong stone edifice of a conic figure, and has been erected many years.
The Alms house is a wooden building, two stories high, with proper accommo- dations for the keeper, and for the persons who are subjects of such an institution. The keeper is Mr. Gideon Foster.
¿ Of these, some are elegant, many are spacious, and others are convenient. A law has lately passed, requiring a certain proportion of every new building to be of brick.
11
OF CHARLESTOWN.
barns, &c. is eight hundred and fifty, of which six hun- dred and seventy are on the peninsula.
In 1812 an application was made to the legislature, for the reestablishment of Judicial Courts, which was pro- bably defeated, by an influence, that has recently decided on the erection of a court house and jail at Lechmere's Point in Cambridge; an establishment which is consid- ered injurious to us, but which we are told will be com- pensated by an intended spacious causeway, to connect us with that territory.
In 1803 an avenue was opened at the easterly part of the town, in nearly a direct line from Salem, by means of a turnpike road, and the erection of Chelsea Bridge .*
The Congregational church, established in 1633, has continued to the present time; a Baptist church was founded in 1801 ; a Universal church in 1811, and there are other religious societies, by which we enjoy the pri- vilege of attending publick worship according to our va- rious opinions ; and it is honourable to the different sects, that there is no apparent discord on this important sub- ject.t
* This Bridge was built across Mistick river in 1803, about a mile below Mal- den bridge. It is longer, but of the same width, has two draws, and is accom- modated with lamps It cost 53000 dollars, which is held in 2400 shares, half of which are the property of the Malden Bridge Corporation. It reverts to the Commonwealth in 70 years. The President is Hon. Nathan Dane of Beverly.
t The congregational ministers are as follows.
Rev. John Wilson, settled in Aug. 1630, and removed with his church to Bos- ton the Nov. following. He died in 1677, aged 78.
Rev. Mr. James settled 1632. He went to Virginia in 1646.
Rev. John Harvard, officiated a short time, and died in 1638. Age unknown. Rev. Thomas Allen, settled in 1638, went to England in 1651, and died in 1673. Aged 65.
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