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Gc 974.402 B81w 1634279
1
M. L.
REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01105 9257
n
Gc 974. B81w 1634
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015
https://archive.org/details/historicalsketch00wood 1
HISTORICAL SKETCHES
OF
BROOKLINE, MASS.
BY
HARRIET F. WOODS.
BOSTON: Published for the Anthor, bn ROBERT S. DAVIS AND COMPANY. 1874.
1634279
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by HARRIET F. WOODS, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
This work is printed for Subscribers, only.
-
RIVERSIDE, CAMBRIDGE: PRINTED BY H. O. HOUGHTON AND COMPANY.
PREFACE.
THE sketches of which this volume is composed, do not claim to be an exhaustive Town History, but are prin- cipally a series of articles written under the title of " Brookline as it was," and published in the " Brookline Transcript," during the years 1871-2. They are chiefly descriptive of the oldest streets and houses, with biograph- ical sketches of some interesting persons, and local anec- dotes and events. These papers have lately been care- fully revised and corrected by the author, who has added new matter, including a chapter on Brookline in the late war.
She has been largely indebted for material, to the writings of Rev. Dr. Pierce (whose biography is con- tained in this work), to old family records and legal doc- uments, and to verbal information from old inhabitants of the town. Deacon Thomas Griggs, Benjamin B. Davis, Esq., the late Dr. S. A. Shurtleff, George Craft, Esq., A. W. Goddard, Esq., the late Otis Withington, the Misses Heath, and many others, have contributed valuable information. The various publications of the New England Historic Genealogical Society have been frequently consulted, as also the genealogical works of Bond, Savage, and others.
iv
PREFACE.
In the winter of 1873-4, Miss Abby L. Pierce (daugh- ter of Rev. Dr. Pierce above-mentioned), desirous of seeing these sketches preserved in a permanent form, vol- untarily undertook the labor of obtaining subscribers for this object, and to her industry and perseverance the success of the undertaking is chiefly due. To this lady, and to Robert S. Davis, Esq., who has kindly arranged for the printing of the work, the writer herewith tenders her heartfelt thanks. Also to all who have in any way. contributed to the interest or correctness of the work, or to the enterprise of placing it before the public, she gratefully acknowledges her indebtedness. It is hoped that it may be read with as much pleasure as it has been written.
H. F. W. CYPRESS ST., BROOKLINE, April, 1874.
CONTENTS.
+ -
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
EARLY SCENES, SETTLEMENTS, AND EVENTS. - SEPARATION FROM
BOSTON. - OLD FAMILIES AND THEIR LANDS · · . . 9
CHAPTER II.
THE " PUNCH BOWL." - FIRST PUBLIC COACHES. - J. DAVEN- PORT. - THE " WHITE ".'HOUSE. - VILLAGE DOCTORS. - WY- MAN AND DOWNER HOUSES . 18
CHAPTER III.
THE DEPOT GROUND. - THE DAVIS ESTATE. - SAMBO. - DANA TAVERN. - TOM COOK. - THE BAPTIST CHURCH . 39
CHAPTER IV.
HARRISON PLACE. - ST. MARY'S CHURCH. - LINDEN PLACE. -
THOMAS A. DAVIS. - ASPINWALL AVENUE, OR, " PERRY'S LANE" 59
CHAPTER V.
THE ASPINWALL FAMILY. - THE COLONEL. - THE DOCTOR. - THE OLD SCHOOL-HOUSE ON SCHOOL STREET . . . 67
CHAPTER VI.
THE SHARPS. - CURIOUS OLD PAPERS. - THE SEWALLS. - ED- WARD DEVOTION. - CAPTAIN WINCHESTER. - THE GRIGGS FAMILY. - HARVARD STREET, CONCLUDED 98
vi
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VII.
WASHINGTON STREET. - HOLDEN'S HILL. - THE LEEDS PLACE. -
THE PUBLIC LIBRARY . 125
CHAPTER VIII.
THE FIRE DEPARTMENT. - THE DANA PLACE. - MISS ANNA DANA 135
CHAPTER IX.
THE HALL HOUSE. - THE TOLMAN HOUSE. - THE CROFT HOUSES. -"BLACK SUSY." - MISS HANNAH ADAMS. - DR. WILD. - THE BLAKE PLACE. - THE ASPINWALL PLACE . . 148
CHAPTER X.
THE ROBINSON, WITHINGTON, AND COREY PLACES. - CYPRESS STREET. - BOYLSTON STREET. - GIDEON THAYER. - DR. SHURT- LEFF. - BRADLEY'S HILL . 175
CHAPTER XI.
BOYLSTON AND BRIGHTON STREETS. - WALNUT STREET. - HOUSES ALONG THE LOWER PART. - THE WALLEY OR BIRD HOUSES. - THE CLARK HOUSE. - THE CEMETERY . 199
CHAPTER XII.
THE OLD BRICK SCHOOL-HOUSE. - MASTER ADAMS. - THE STONE SCHOOL-HOUSE. - THE FIRST CHURCH. - REV. MR. ALLEN. - REV. MR. JACKSON . . . 225
CHAPTER XIII.
REV. DR. PIERCE : BIOGRAPHY. - MR. PHILBRICK AND THIE ANTI- SLAVERY MOVEMENT. - POLLY HATCH : ANECDOTES, HER MAR- RIAGE AND DEATH · . 251
vii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIV.
THE GARDNER FAMILY AND HOUSES. - THE BOYLSTON, OR HYS- LOP PLACE (COLONEL LEE'S). - THE ACKERS PLACE. - OLD INDIAN BURIAL PLACE . . 284
CHAPTER XV.
THE HOUSE OF SAMUEL WHITE, ESQ., AFTERWARDS THE HEATH PLACE. - " AUNT WHITE." - THE WINCHESTERS . 313
CHAPTER XVI.
HEATH STREET, CONCLUDED. - WARREN STREET. - ANECDOTE OF JOSHUA BOYLSTON, DEACON CLARK, MISS PRUDY HEATH, COLONEL PERKINS. - GODDARD AVENUE. - THE GODDARDS IN THE REVOLUTION. - A PATRIOTIC FAMILY. - COTTAGE STREET. - THE LEE PLACE . 344
CHAPTER XVII.
CLYDE STREET. - NEWTON STREET - " PUTTERHAM." - THE CRAFT PLACE (NOW THE DENNY PLACE). - THE OLD SAW- MILL. - SOUTH STREET. - ANCIENT HOUSE ATTACKED BY IN- DIANS. - JAMES GRIGGS. - THE KENDRICKS . . 373
CHAPTER XVIII.
HIGH STREET CHURCH. - CHURCH OF OUR SAVIOUR. - GOSPEL CHURCH. - LOCAL INDUSTRIES . 396
CHAPTER XIX.
A BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE MILITARY HISTORY OF BROOKLINE . 406
BROOKLINE SOLDIERS WHO LOST THEIR LIVES DURING OR IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE REBELLION · . 422
HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF
BROOKLINE.
CHAPTER I.
.
EARLY SCENES, SETTLEMENTS, AND EVENTS. - SEPARATION FROM BOSTON. - OLD FAMILIES AND THEIR LANDS.
L OOKING westward from the hills of Boston in Gov- ernor Winthrop's time, Charles River Bay was spread at high tide, an unbroken sheet of water from Cambridge shore to Roxbury Neck. Our present Brookline lay in full view, with its wood-crowned heights, now Corey's and Aspinwall's hills, lifting themselves up against the sunset, and its green slopes and winding brooks lying between.
It was but two miles across the bay, and here the thriving colonists of Trimountain, " which was bare of wood except here and there in clumps," came in their boats for house timber, as their successors did for ship timber.
Here, too, they found " arable grounds and meadows," and soon availed themselves of them for pasturage. The early Shawmut settlers soon explored Charles River, and no doubt its tributary Muddy River, which was navigable as far as our present boundary line near Pond Avenue. Across the broad bay, the stealthy Indians in their birchen
2
-
.
10
HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF BROOKLINE.
canoes, glided from their coverts along the woody shores of. the two rivers, fishing perhaps where the Public Garden at present spreads its attractions ; or startling a wood-cutter with the twang of an arrow aimed at a wolf, which howled where the steam whistle now shrieks. In the " forest primeval " which shaded the site of our beautiful Longwood, on a knoll in the centre of what the early settlers called " the great swamp," the Indians had one of their forts, or strongholds, and here probably were encamped " the ten Sagamores and many Indians," which gave Governor Winthrop his first occasion to men- tion the hamlet of Muddy River. The oft-quoted record reads thus, under date of 1632 : -
"Notice being given of ten Sagamores and many Indians being assembled at Muddy River, the Governor sent Captain Underhill with twenty musketeers to make discoveries, but at Roxbury they heard that they were broken up."
The old fort, which remained an object of historic interest in a tolerable state of preservation until 1844-45, was built of palisades, inclosing about an eighth of an acre of ground in square form and surrounded by a ditch about three feet in depth, and a parapet three feet in height, with an opening or gateway on each side, one of which was toward the swamp. The residence of William Amory, Esq., is located upon the site of this fort.
The next notice of this place in "Winthrop's Journal," is in vol. i., p. 290, as follows : -
" In this year (1633), one James Everett, a sober, discreet man, and two others, saw a great light in the night at Muddy River. When it stood still, it flamed up and was three yards square. When it ran, it was contracted into the figure of a swine. It ran as swift as an arrow towards Charlestown and so up and down about two or three hours. They were come
£
11
GRANTS OF LAND AT MUDDY RIVER.
down in their lighter, about a mile ; and when it was over they found themselves carried quite back against the tide to the place they came from. Divers other credible persons saw the same light, after, about the same place."
The editor of the " Journal " in a note, says of this phenomenon : -
"This account of an ignis fatuus may easily be believed on testimony less respectable than that which was adduced, Some operation of the Devil, or other power beyond the cus- tomary agents of Nature, was probably imagined by the re- lators and hearers of that age; and the wonder of their being carried a mile against the tide became important corroboration of the imagination. Perhaps they were wafted, during the two or three hours astonishment, for so moderate a distance by the wind. But if this suggestion be rejected, we might suppose that the eddy, flowing always in our rivers, contrary to the tide in the channel, rather than the meteor. carried their lighter back."
In 1633, " It was ordered that a sufficient cart bridge shall be made in some convenient place over Muddy River," which was the first bridge at the crossing of the present town boundary line.
A more substantial bridge of stone and gravel was built by the town of Roxbury in the following century.
In 1635, it was ordered " that the poorer sort of in- habitants, such as are members, and likely so to be " (of the church probably) " and have no cattle, have their proportion of planting ground, laid out at Muddy River those that fall between the foot of the hill and the water to have four acres upon a head, and those farther off to have five."
From ancient records it seems that grants of land were often made here in those early times to induce settle- ment.
12
HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF BROOKLINE.
On the 30th December, 1639 : -
"It was agreed that five hundred acres be laid out at Muddy River for perpetual commonage to the inhabitants there and the town of Boston, to begin at Mr. Hibbons's lott, and so go into the countrey as the land will afford before any other allott- ments are layd out hereafter.
" A true Coppie as entered with the records of the Town of Boston.
Examined per
JOSEPH PROUT, Town Clerk."
In 1640, the boundary line between Muddy River and Cambridge was fixed, and has so remained; but the boundary between Brookline and Roxbury, and between Brookline and Boston, has been subjected to several changes.
In 1675, Wood, in his " New England's Prospect," al- ludes thus to this locality : -
" The inhabitants of Boston, for their enlargement, have taken to themselves farm houses in a place called Muddy River, two miles from their town,* where is good ground, large timber, and store of marsh land and meadow. In this place they keep their swine and other cattle in the Summer, whilst corn is on the ground at Boston ; and bring them to town in the win- ter."
In 1686, the inhabitants of Muddy River hamlet pe- titioned for school privileges and the right to maintain them, and the following order was passed in compliance with their request : -
" That henceforth the said Hamlet be free from Town Rates to Boston, they henceforth maintaining an able reading and writing master."
This arrangement was gladly accepted, and the people
* Across the bay.
-
13
A PETITION.
of the hamlet agreed to pay the schoolmaster £12 per annum, and tax the individuals who availed themselves of the school for the balance necessary for the support of the master, abating in part or wholly the school rates of the poor. This is the first entry upon the records of the town. Three men were annually chosen at the Bos- ton town meeting to manage the affairs of the hamlet, which began to be called Brookline about this time, though still a part of Boston. A committee of three men was chosen to decide where the centre of the town was to be found, that the school-house might be located there, and they fixed upon the triangular piece of ground in Walnut Street, just west of the present Unitarian church. The town fathers of those days having "tasted the sweets of liberty," soon came to a vivid perception of the inconvenience of having their local affairs managed by Boston, and on the 11th of March, 1700, they pre- sented a petition to be set off as a town by themselves, as follows : -
" To his Excellency, the Governor, Council, and Assembly.
"The humble petition of the Inhabitants of Muddy River. Humbly Sheweth, That they are a Hamlet belonging to Boston, have been lately settled there and sometime since in the year 1686 being grown to a good number of inhabitants represented to the Government then in being, praying to be acquitted from paying duties and taxes to the Town of Boston, being then willing to bear their own public charges of Bridges, Highwaies, and Poor, and were accordingly then released and ordered to maintain a Reading and Writing Schoole as the order annexed will show, which accordingly we have ever since done, and now further humbly pray that being grown to a greater number of good settled inhabitants we may be allowed a separate right to have Selectmen, and all other rights belonging to a Township,
14
HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF BROOKLINE.
which may further encourage us as we are able to settle a min- ister and other benefits amongst us, and we shall ever pray.
SAMUEL SEWALL, JR., BENJAMIN WHITE,
THOMAS STEADMAN, SEN'R,
JOHN WINCHESTER, SEN'R,
THOMAS GARDNER, SEN'R, SAMUEL ASPINWALL,
JOSEPH WHITE, JOSIAH WINCHESTER."
This gave great offense to the town authorities, and a town meeting was called, the petition was read and the reasons therefor debated, which resulted in a negative vote, and moreover the laying on again of the town taxes, from which they had been for some years excused, though they did condescend to allow them a schoolmaster who should be appointed by the selectmen and paid out of the town treasury.
This, however, did not quiet the inhabitants of Brook- line. In 1704 the subject was renewed, but no favorable action was taken, and in 1705 another petition was sent in, signed by thirty-two of the inhabitants, to the Assem- bly and Council, as follows : -
" To his Excellency, the Governor, Council. and Assembly, in General Court convened. The humble petition of the inhabit- ants of Muddy River, sheweth.
"That at a session of this honorable Court, held at Boston on 13 August, 1704, the said inhabitants exhibited their humble petition praying, that the said Muddy River might be allowed a separate village or peculiar, and be invested with such powers and rights, as they may be enabled by themselves to manage the general affairs of the said place. Which petition has been transmitted to the Selectmen of the Town of Boston. that they may consider the same; since which your humble petitioners, not having been informed of any objection made by the Town of Boston, aforesaid, we presume, that there is no obstruction to our humble request made in our petition.
" Wherefore we humbly beseech your Excellency, that this honorable Court will be pleased to proceed to pass an Act for
£
15
SEPARATION FROM BOSTON.
the establishing of the said place a separate village or peculiar, with such powers as aforesaid, and your petitioners shall ever pray.
SAMUEL SEWALL, JR.,
JOSIAH WINCHESTER,
THOS. GARDNER,
JOHN DEVOTION,
BENJAMIN WHITE,
JOSEPH GARDNER,
THOMAS STEDMAN,
THOMAS STEDMAN, JR.,
JOHN WINCHESTER,
JOHN ACKERS,
SAMUEL ASPINWALL,
JOSIAH STEDMAN,
ELEAZER ASPINWALL,
THOMAS GARDNER, JR.,
WILLIAM SHARP,
RALPH SHEPARD,
EDWARD DEVOTION,
ABRAHAM CHAMBERLAIN,
JOSIAH WINCHESTER, JR.,
PETER BOYLSTON,
JOHN ELLIS,
JOHN ACKERS, JR.,
JOHN WINCHESTER, JR.,
WILLIAM ACKERS,
THOMAS WOODWARD,
BENJAMIN WHITE, JR.,
- HOLLAND,
CALEB GARDNER,
GARDNER,
JOHN SEAVER,
JOSEPH WHITE,
HENRY WINCHESTER."
The " prayer" of the above petition was granted on the thirteenth day of November, 1705, as appears by the fol- lowing record of the town grants : -
" Anno Regni Annæ Regina Quarte.
" At a great and general Court for her Majesty's Province of the Massachusetts Bay, in New England, begun and held at Boston upon Wednesday, 13th May, 1705, and continued by several prorogations unto Wednesday, 24th October, following and then met 13th November, 1705.
" In Council.
" The order passed by the Representatives, upon the Petition of the inhabitants of Muddy River, a Hamlet of Boston, read on Saturday last,
" Ordered, That the prayer of the petition be granted; and the powers and privileges of a Township, be given to the in- habitants of the lands commonly known by the name of Muddy
16
HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF BROOKLINE.
River, the Town to be called BROOKLINE ; who are hereby en- joined to build a meeting-house, and obtain an able Orthodox minister, according to the direction of the Law, to be settled amongst them, within the space of three years next coming.
" Provided, that all Common Lands, belonging to the Town of Boston, lying within the said bounds of Muddy River, not disposed of, or allotted out, shall still remain to the proprietors of said lands.
· " Which order, being again read, was concurred, and con- sented to.
JOSEPH DUDLEY.
"Taken from Mr. Addington's copy sent to the Town.
" A True Copy Examined by me,
ISAAC ADDINGTON, Secretary.
" Recorded by me,
" SAM'L SEWALL, JR., Town Clerk."
. Thus, the General Court and Governor Dudley, having taking the matter into their own hands, established our identity as a town. For a hundred and sixty-five years we believe no one was found who regretted the separa- tion from Boston, or desired to relinquish the liberty of an independent town.
The old boundary line of the town, on the side next to Roxbury, came down what has till recently been called Village Lane, from the direction of Chestnut Street and the Lee place, and the lot known as the Oliver Whyte place was in Brookline, while the house lot of J. A. Guild and all the houses on that side of the street were in Roxbury. The line crossed the street at the present entrance of Pearl Street, and the brick blacksmith's shop and all the rest of the village below it were in Roxbury. The line followed the brook, now the sewer, and then all the windings and turnings of Muddy River till it met the corners of Boston and Cambridge in the channel. When Brookline Avenue was built, a person going from the corner, by the gas works, to the junction, would go in and
-
£
17
THE CENSUS.
out of Roxbury eight times. The " crooked things have been made (comparatively ) straight," in this direction.
The town became a part of Norfolk County in 1793, and according to a survey in 1844 contained 4,695 acres.
The first census of the town on record, was, in 1790, 518 inhabitants ; in 1800, 605 ; 1820, 900; 1840, 1,265; 1860, 5,164; 1870, 6,650.
The centre of the town was also the centre of popula- tion for many years, there being in 1796 thirty-eight houses above the church and school-house, and thirty- four below. In 1844, by a census taken by order of the selectmen, there were found eighty-eight houses and one hundred families above the centre of the town, and one hundred and twenty-four houses and one hundred and fifty-six families below; in the whole, two hundred and twelve dwelling-houses and two hundred and fifty-six families. All that part of Boston Highlands from Muddy River for a half mile or more east, including Parker's Hill and Heath Street, and what was on this side of Muddy River till it met the old Brookline boundary, was called " Roxbury Precinct."
In this area lived several families, whose lands lying along the borders and some of them partly in both towns, had many interests in common and whose histories are blended and identified with both. Among these were the names of Craft, Heath, Griggs, Wyman, Downer, and Brewer.
The old " Punch Bowl" Tavern was the nucleus around which " the village " gathered, partly in Brookline and partly in Roxbury, and from this as a starting point the various houses and families of interest, in former days, will be successively described.
18
HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF BROOKLINE.
CHAPTER II.
THE " PUNCH BOWL." - FIRST PUBLIC COACHES. - J. DAVEN- PORT. - THE " WHITE " HOUSE. - VILLAGE DOCTORS. - WYMAN AND DOWNER HOUSES.
F ROM the first settlement of the town, until the Mill- dam was built, the present Washington Street was the only road to Boston in this direction, and the heavy teaming from the country towns west of us necessarily came through Brookline. There was an immense amount of travel of this kind, as there were no railroads then in existence, and thus the ancient Punch Bowl Tavern was a necessity of the times ; here all the teams stopped for " refreshment for man and beast," and this old building as a nucleus, gathered around itself the village which took its name. Even to this day this place is remem- bered by old men in New Hampshire, Vermont, and the back towns of this State as "the Punch Bowl Village."
The original house, built by John Ellis long before 1740, was a two-story, hipped-roof house, to which, as increasing patronage made it necessary, the proprietor made additions from time to time by purchasing old houses in Boston and vicinity and removing them hither. The result was in the aggregate a curious medley of old rooms of all sorts and sizes, connected together in a non- descript manner and presenting an architectural style, which, if we might apply a geological term to it, we should call a conglomerate.
The rafters of the original house were cedar posts,
19
THE " PUNCH BOWL."
just as they came from the woods with the bark on. This old tavern and its outbuildings occupied all the space on the street from the brick blacksmith's shop, now occupied by J. Madore, to the provision store of Brown Bros. It was of a yellowish color, and had a seat running along the front under an overhanging porch, or rather projection of a part of the second story, where loungers congregated to discuss the news of the day. In front of it and near each end was a large elm tree ; under the westerly one stood a pump. This tree and pump remained until within a few years, the other was long ago destroyed. The ancient sign, sus- pended from a high, red post, gave a name to the tavern and the village, and swung its hospitable invitation creak- ing in the wind for nearly a hundred years. The design was a huge bowl and ladle overhung by a lemon tree, resplendent with fruit, some of which lay around the bowl as if fallen from the tree.
Here the Selectmen of the town used to have an annual supper, and on one of these occasions the old building came near being destroyed by fire. They had sat round the table smoking, after the repast, and probably dropped fire upon the table-cloth, which was gathered up and thrust into a closet by a servant. Soon after retiring, the family were wakened by the smell of smoke, and flames arising from the closet burst through to the chamber overhead, where the landlord's children slept. The frightened children rushed out in their night clothes to the neighbors' houses ; the night was bitterly cold, and the ground covered with ice, and but for the landlord's promptness and presence of mind, the whole establish- ment would have been speedily reduced to ashes. With- out stopping to put on a single garment, just as he sprang from his bed, he gave the alarm and seized a
20
HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF BROOKLINE.
bucket of swill which he dashed upon the burning mass in the closet, closed the doors carefully after him, and brought water from the pump, directed the labor of oth- ers who came with their buckets, and put the fire out and saved the building, though the flames actually reached the attic. There was at that time an engine in the village kept in a house which stood in what is now the front yard of the Oliver Whyte estate. It was owned by Brookline and Roxbury in common, as the south side of the street from Village Lane to the creek be- low Pond Avenue was then a part of Roxbury. The extent of the patronage of the old " Punch Bowl " may be roughly estimated from the fact that it was common for a row of teams to occupy the side of the street above and below the tavern, from what is now Harrison Place, to the gas works in a continuous line, while the men and horses were being fed and rested. The " Punch Bowl" was not patronized by this class alone, however, but was a famous place of resort for gay parties, not only from the surrounding towns, but even from Boston, and was much frequented by British officers just before the Revolution.
The mill-dam, the bridges, and the opening of the Worcester railroad, at last took all the business away from the old " Punch Bowl." It was bought by Mr. Isaac Thayer about 1833, and torn down. Much of the ma- terial was of solid oak, and was used in building nine houses which he erected on the site of the old buildings. These are all standing, including the four buildings be- tween the brick blacksmith's shop and the brick house next to Lyceum Hall, the houses occupied by J. Darragh and J. Dustin, and the first three houses on the left in White Place .* These last were built on the site of the
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