USA > Massachusetts > Hampden County > Holyoke > Holyoke, past and present, 1745-1895. > Part 1
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HOLYOKE PAST AND PRESENT
HOLYOKE PUBLIC LIBRARY
HOLYOKE PUBLIC LIBRARY
HOLYOKE PAST AND PRESENT 1745-1895
TRANSCRIPT PUBLISHING COMPANY, PRINTERS, HOLYOKE, MASS.
The publisher desires to return thanks to those who have in any way assisted in furnishing data for this sketch of Holyoke life, or have made any suggestions regarding material or the best places of securing it. The illustrative work is of the best, having been done by the Boston Engraving and McIndoe Publishing Company. The following people have taken special photographs for it: M. P. Warner, H. A. Collings, D. W. Simpson, George Nesbitt, E. Netherwood.
L. L. JOHNSON.
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014
https://archive.org/details/holyokepastprese00unse
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE.
PAGE.
ABBOTT, W. H., .
99
COLSON, CHARLES D.,
76
ASSISTANT MARSHAL PATRICK HERBERT,
78
CONWAY, MARTIN P.,
77
ATHLETIC PARK,
96 CORNER ESSEX AND MAPLE STREETS,
91
BACK STREET DRIVE,
18
CORSER, MISS RAE,
152
BAPTIST VILLAGE CEMETERY,
25
CRAFTS' TAVERN,
I5
BATES, E. T.,
107 89
CURRAN, JAMES J.,
76
BEE HIVE, .
97
DRINKING FOUNTAIN IN HAMPDEN PARK,
92
BONVOULOIR, PIERRE,
7I
EASTHAMPTON ROAD, NORTH OF CRAFTS' TAVERN.
60
BOXES ON LEFT SIDE OF OPERA HOUSE,
95
ENDEAVOR CHAPEL, .
47
BOYS' CLUB,
109
FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH,
27
CAIN, A. M.,
IOI
FLAT-IRON BLOCK,
97
CALLAHAN, JOHN A., .
86
FORD & ROSS' STORE,
. I42
CANOE CLUB HOUSE, .
II3
FORESTDALE CEMETERY,
I20
CAPTAIN MILLER PLACE,
15
FRISSELL'S BLOCK, G. C., .
144
CHAREST, O. Z. E.,
145
GALLUP & Co., C. H.,
I43
CHASE, MAYOR HENRY A.,
71
GERMAN EVANGELICAL LUTHERAN CHURCH,
44
CHIEF LYNCH,
75
GILLIGAN, P. J., .
IO2
CHILDS, CHARLES HUDSON,
I32
GRIFFIN, M. J., .
119
CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE ROSARY,
43
GRIFFITH, JAMES EVELETH,
149
CHURCH OF THE PRECIOUS BLOOD,
40
HADLEY FALLS BANK NOTE,
II7
CHURCH OF THE SACRED HEART,
42
HALE, GEORGE H.,
IO7
CITY HALL,
70
HAMMOND, WILLIAM CHURCHILL,
151
CITY OF HOLYOKE SEAL,
69
HARDY, JOHN D.,
77
CLARK, EMBURY P.,
IOI
HASTINGS, CAPTAIN FRANCIS H.,
79
.
F
.
CREST OF DAM, .
50
BEND OF THE RIVER, .
5
PAGE.
HIGH STREET, LOOKING SOUTH, 90
METCALF, CAPTAIN, .
II2
MONUMENTAL WORKS OF H. M. COOK, I54
MOQUIN, VAL, . 73
HOTEL HAMILTON,
147
MORGAN HOMESTEAD, 18
HOUSE OF PROVIDENCE HOSPITAL,
148
NEWCOMB, CHARLES L.,
INGLESIDE, 24
INGLESIDE HOTEL,
68
NEW M. E. CHURCH, 34
IVES, DWIGHT, .
156
NICHOLS, WILBUR F.,
84 II7
JUDD, DWIGHT O.,
103
NOLAN, JOHNNY,
NORTH SIDE OF DWIGHT STREET, 90
KENILWORTH CASTLE INTERIOR,
125
O'CONNOR, DR. J. J., . I55
KANE, EDWARD A., 72
KENNEY, DANIEL W.,
72
OLD FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, 26
66
OLD POLICE COURT ROOM, 65
KIRTLAND, E. L.,
81
LAFORTUNE & Co.'s STORE,
138
LAMB, CAPTAIN, .
II2
ON INGLESIDE ROADWAY, . 61
OPERA HOUSE,
94
LANDERS, DENNIS J.,
74
ORIGINAL CUT OF DAM,
54
LAWRENCE, HIRAM BARTLETT,
82
PAROCHIAL SCHOOL, CHURCH OF THE PRECIOUS
BLOOD, 158
PHILLIPS, JAMES,
99
LYNCH, J. J., 87
MACKINTOSH & SONS' PLANT, D.,
I31
MARBLE HALL,
I34
PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH,
45
MEDALLION, I30
RAND, REV. THOMAS,
28
·
OLD SECOND CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, 31
OLDEST INHABITANT,
9
L'AMOUREAUX, GEORGE H. D.,
87
LETTER CARRIERS, I18
LOOMIS, W. S., .
103
PRECIOUS BLOOD CHURCH AND PAROCHIAL RESI- DENCE, I35
6
HILDRETH, JOHN, 74
HOME SCHOOL, NORTHAMPTON STREET,
I33
NEW GRACE CHAPEL,
73 I57
JUDD, WILLIAM E., 84
OLD BROWN HOUSE, . I6
KENILWORTH CASTLE, SUMMER RESIDENCE OF E.
OLD LOCK-UP, .
C. TAFT, 124
PAGE.
PAGE,
RAPIDS BELOW THE DAM, . 55
STRETCH OF ROAD,
II
RED CLIFF BOAT HOUSE, . 113
SULLIVAN, LIEUTENANT PATRICK H., 79
RESIDENCE OF C. E. MACKINTOSH, 137
SYTONEHA LODGE, 114
RESIDENCE OF EX-CONGRESSMAN WHITING, 127
THE CITY HOSPITAL, . I22
RESIDENCE OF EX-MAYOR SULLIVAN, I37
THE DAM, SPRING FRESHET OF 1895,
8
RESIDENCE OF J. F. KNIGHTLY,
123
THE ELY HOMESTEAD, INGLESIDE, .
59
RESIDENCE of THEODORE SPAMER,
123
THE FARNUM PLACE, 62 48 THE GERMAN REFORMED CHURCH, .
146
RIO VISTA,
II4
THE MAPLEWOOD,
138
ROSEMOUNT GREEN HOUSES,
I4I
THE OLD HOLYOKE HOUSE,
63
SAM ELY PLACE,
52
THE OLD RAND HOMESTEAD, .
21
SANS SOUCI CLUB HOUSE, .
115
THE WILLIAM SKINNER SILK MILL,
I30
SCENE ON THE RIVER,
56
TOWN OF HOLYOKE SEAL, .
57
SECOND BAPTIST CHURCH,
32
TOWN RESIDENCE OF E. C. TAFT,
I28
SECOND CONGREGATIONAL, CHURCH,
30
TWADDLE, CITY MARSHAL GEORGE H.,
78
SECTIONAL VIEW OF THE DAM, .
53
UNITARIAN CHURCH, 41
SHEEHAN, JOHN F.,
150
VIEW OF DAM WITHOUT APRON,
49
SMITH, DR. G. H.,
I53
" WAYSIDE HOME," .
64
SOCIETY EMBLEM,
106
WHITING PAPER CO. NO. I, I29
SOLDIERS MONUMENT IN HAMPDEN PARK,
93
WHITING PAPER CO. No. 2, I29
160
WHITING STREET FARM, . 20
ST. JEROME CATHOLIC CHURCH,
38
WINDOW OF MCAUSLAN & WAKELIN'S STORE, 139
ST. JEROME CEMETERY,
I2I
WINDSOR HOTEL, 94
ST. PAUL'S EPISCOPAL CHURCH,
36
WOODRUFF COAL & WOOD CO., 140
STEBBINS, W. H. H., .
104
Y. M. C. A. BUILDING, 108
STREETER, P. A.,
I04
YOUNG WOMEN'S CLUB,
IIO
RESIDENCE OF WILLIAM SKINNER, .
I26
RILEY, FRANCIS J.,
86
THE LYMAN BLOCK,
7
SPRINGDALE,
PAGE.
SPRING FRESHET OF APRIL 17, 1895. HIGHT OF WATER ON DAM, 10 FEET 4 INCHES.
IRELAND PARISH.
HE old turnpike road leading from Northamp- ton to Springfield has no unique history, nor does it differ so much from the everywhere familiar thoroughfare which pursues its desultory way through New Eng- land. Its course is not as the bird flies, it has hardened since these old fields were young, when the first lines of its afterward famous course were freshly drawn by rustic feet seeking a pleasant, as well as direct way to the nearest neighbor, store or church. It is one of the most beautiful drives hereabout, for time helped form it into a fine roadway, and here the four hundred of at least three cities try the speed of the best their stables afford.
Not far enough from the river to ever forget its influence, the road wanders on, often giving glimpses of a valley whose pastoral beauty has caused many an experienced traveller to say that its like cannot be found here or in the old country. It has a history, it is an old settler, it has seen men come and go, it has heard the sound of the horn blown by the representatives of rapid transit on the THE OLDEST INHABITANT-1751. old "Telegram" line, which was supposed to be, at that time, the very embodiment of lightning-like speed. The rafting and boating days have known the old road, over it were transferred
9
the cargoes from river boats intended for the farmers' use. Then the freight was drawn by stout oxen who were not responsible if casks of rum formed part of their burden. And near this road, some time before 1745, settled an Irish family named Riley, and the presence of this small foreign population made a name and fame for the region. The presence of English settlers quietly engaged in agricultural pursuits had not been deemed important enough to make the settlement where Holyoke now is more distinctive than the "Third Parish " (West Springfield), but from this time it became known as " Ireland Parish," probably because the one Irish home attracted others of the same nationality to these fertile fields. The exact location of this historic family was in the south part of the town near " Riley Brook," and here they enjoyed the soft airs, heard the summer songs of birds, were happy in fields as green as those of their own island, until that time came when this particular branch of the Riley family removed to that bright realm for which their sojourn in such a favored spot had doubtless somewhat prepared them.
But " Ireland Parish " remained. It was too good to be lost sight of. The "field " lying to the south and west of it was an unpromising tract in which sand largely predominated. Very unlike the pleasant farm lands was this lonesome tract, with two roads straggling down through it from the old turnpike, but in the magnificent stretch and fall of the "Long" river which skirted it, lay the power which has made the city influential and famous the world over. It was not a sudden change of conditions, it was the knowledge of men applied to what had always existed, a grand power of nature made to serve man.
In Indian history this site is remarkably deficient. Whatever he may have been in his estimation of the industrial or fine arts, the original inhabitant was singularly keen in his summing up of natural advantages, and the " field" offered him no inducements. Rather would he locate in the higher hills and mountains, visiting this place only in the course of a hunting or fishing trip. Then the "Great Falls" swarmed with salmon and the forests were filled with game. Indian lore taught the young brave when to take the trail and he found his reward, but at no time did he locate here. In 1870 Professor Hitchcock of Amherst was present and superintended the opening of many graves on Depot Hill on what was called the Mosher tract, now covered with buildings, just north of Canonchet Park. Many skeletons and relics were uncovered, all of which went to Amherst College and are now kept there. Skeletons have also been unearthed at Springdale. The incident of finding an Indian grave on Depot Hill, in what is now Canonchet Park, only proves that some warrior grew weary of life's journey and laid him down while on the march far from the resting place of his fathers. The excavations which disclosed this grave were made in 1890, by the Water Power Co., when the ground was being graded for park purposes. The one lasting memento of the brave
IO
STRETCH OF ROAD.
II
who rested there were the copper beads which rolled down over the sand when the dark, oblong space which marked the grave was profaned by the touch of the spade. These baubles of a long forgotten day were preserved by the company, and a few are in the possession of residents of the city.
The old Fairfield homestead, on Northampton street, has its Indian legend, which proves again that the presence of savages was intermittent. One night when Lucas Morgan, then master of the place, approached his stable, his horse refused to enter, and putting out his hand, Morgan felt the warm head of an Indian crouching below him. Mr. Morgan made good time in getting to the house, and later, blows from tomahawks on the stout kitchen door told of the presence of the enemy. One shot was fired by the master of the house and all disturbance ceased. In the morning were found in the snow tracks of three men, and the dog of the farm lay dead before the door, killed by an Indian tomahawk.
Before coming to the annual hunt, the Indians set fire to the woods before them, in order to drive the game ahead, and this was the time for white settlers to " look alive." Then they "forted " together nights in a barricaded building on " Ball's corner" and survived the scares and adventures which were the portion of early settlers in those days.
One of the earliest settlers was Benjamin Ball, great-grandfather of the late Colonel E. H. Ball, whose son James now occupies the old homestead whose first occupant came in 1745, though the ancestor of this family, Francis Ball, came to Springfield in 1640.
Following close upon the arrival of the first Ball came an important occasion, the master of the place had an "Arbor Day" of his very own, and in the spring of 1751 planted near the southeast corner of what is now the home lot, an elm tree, known up and down the "street," as the "Ball elm." The tree stood in the roadway, but the changes have passed by the grand elm and never disturbed it. When the late Benjamin Coit bought a portion of land once the Ball farm, the tree was left on the Coit side of the fence, and now Harlan Coit is its envied possessor. Genera- tions have lived in its shadow, have passed on, leaving vacant places for the next in line, and still the old tree throws its shade far out over the road and shelters innumerable families of birds.
About thirty-three years ago the old Fairfield homestead was the scene of a reception tendered to the old residents, both this and the other side of the river, and then was read by a lady of Northampton street, the following poem, which truthfully gives, from memoranda preserved by R. M. Fairfield's father, the location of the old farms and names of their inhabitants :
I2
On all things here beneath the sun Change and decay are seen, So near allied we find the two They're almost one, I ween. The past, the far off buried past, One-half a century fled,
In fancy let us walk the streets With those, the bygone dead. We'll call and take a birdseye view North from our sister town, And note the people who then lived From Street to Ashley town. Holyoke was then a thing to be, West Springfield was its name, And where our present village is, Was all unknown to fame. The gray haired sire who guides this pen Would fain a pardon ask
If memory fails him somewhat now In prompting such a task.
The Streets were Joshua, Glover, John, Fairfields but one was told, Morgans in number five or six, The best of stock, I'm told. Tuttles in number only two, Ludden, the smith, we find,
He'd shoe your oxen or your horse And do it to your mind.
The names of Walker, Dickerman, Of Wood and Ewing true, Are just as good for aught I know, Though to this street they're new. The old hotel where Judd now lives, And, by the way, I've thought 'Twas something of that nature now, Though drink there can't be bought. No church or deacon then were found Where later we had both, And yet the people kept so straight 'Twere safe to take an oath.
A potash manufactory In rear of Crafts' then stood, Or what is now well-known as Crafts', The quality was good. A store, too, nearly opposite, One Bartlett kept, 'tis said,
But who he was or whence he came It is not now sung or read. A school house next in turn we find. Where great men learned to spell, And judging the present by the past, Their work was done quite well. Latin, with algebra and Greek, Were to that school unknown,
Yet manners, gentle and polite, Found here a name and throne.
Where Crafts, one Judson, now resides, There lived two Morgans then, May be were brothers, may be not, Don't question close this pen, Enough to say the name is dead From this ancestral tree.
The blood still flows in Holyoke veins, Though dead the name may be.
And cooper's shop, I'm told there stood, Where waves the maple bougli, And shoemaker then lived and reigned Where live the Farnums now. Chapin, the elder deacon's sire, Where Edwin Street now lives, And opposite was Justin's home, The race I'll not now give. Another cooper plied his art, Would make or mend or sell, And where Leroy Ball now lives There Francis Ball did dwell, With Phœbus Atkins just below, There's no house now, I ween. A blacksmith, too, there plied his trade, But now no building's seen.
Where Samuel Allyn's pleasant home Nestles in quiet grace, A deacon surnamed Rogers lived, But gone are all his race. And just below in grandeur stood Close by a little hill A wholesale drunkards' factory, Surnamed a brandy still.
In those old days credulity Was taxed and taxed again, And witches, ghosts and hobgoblins Then walked and talked with men. The legend tells a frightful tale, True now, no doubt, as then, Of one who disappeared from earth And then came back again, And gave the people left behind To plainly understand That he was hurried from this world By murder's bloody hand. People assembled far and near The horrid tidings spread, And ax and spade were made to work While crowds stood by with dread. The mangled body would be found, 'Twas buried here and there, And lips unused to supplicate Were heard in humble prayer, That they might find the poor, For then he'd lay him down
And sleep in quiet and in peace. Till the last trump shall sound. The search was vain and ghost grew tired Of walking thereabout, And went where ghostly visitants Are prone to go no doubt. To me this old time mystery Coincidents explain, For buildings one in three were then, Distilleries by name.
I3
And men into their cellars rolled Brandy full many a cask, And why not spirits visit those, With spirits filled, I ask?
Art had not changed fair nature's face Though time was stealing on apace Those fifty years ago.
The noble stream untrammelled rolled In freedom and in pride,
The name of Ball in those old days, Stood as it stands to-day, And may its lustre never dim Or honor pass away.
And Humeston, another name For honesty and worth,
Its power unknown, was not controlled, It knew no artful guide, Till man, the giant master mind, Subtle and cunning still,
Contrived the monster power to bind Subservient to his will.
Old Tom need not his watches keep But take a little doze.
A score of years shall not have passed Writes this prophetic pen,
For Holyoke's destiny is cast By these, her living men.
The "field" of fifty years ago, The Holyoke of to-day,
Such names as Stuart, Parsons, Chase, As Stursberg, Greenleaf, Brown,
Shall for the present moment form The burden of my lay.
Old time can ne'er such names efface, They're bound to know renown,
With Newton, Prescott, Whiting, Page, With Ewing, Smith and Frink, With Wiggin, Merrick, Jenks and Flagg, We can at croakers wink. And hundred lesser lights, Whose flame upon the city's shed,
They work with heart and might, Their motto go ahead.
This generation shall not sleep In its long deep repose.
With Rand an honor to the town That gave their owners birth,
'Twas vain to foam and rage and tear. The noble stream was bound,
With Day and Ely, Ives and Smith, In Holyoke's history old,
Among the many more beloved Than words have ever told.
The whitened waters only roar And shake the solid ground.
We're rich in all that goes to make A city of to-day, And shall we not some morn awake In some such real way?
The Miller homestead which was torn down a dozen years ago was at the time of its destruction supposed to be the oldest house in town. The Miller family was among the first settlers in the Connecticut Valley and the house in question was erected about the year 1749 by Capt. John Miller, who took part in the capture of Louisburg in the French war of 1748. At that time and for many years after, the Miller farm covered a large portion of the land now occupied by the city of Holyoke. After Captain John Miller's discharge from the army he married and took his bride to his new home. This property remained in the Miller family for more than a century after the "new house" was built by Captain John Miller. During the Revolutionary war and for many years after, the house was occupied as a tavern, being the half way house on the old stage route between Northampton and Springfield and in the days before steam cars usurped the old time stage coach. Many a mug of "flip" was brewed in the old "south room" which served as the bar. It is not known that General Washington ever partook of its hospitality or slept therein, but he could have done so had he been travelling that way. Tradition has it that in the latter part of the last century a man was hanged for stealing a watch, from that same bar room. The last of the Miller family to occupy the place was Abner Miller, who sold the property in 1857 and moved to Easthampton, where he afterwards died.
14
CAPTAIN MILLER PLACE, NORTHAMPTON STREET.
15
CRAFTS' TAVERN.
The property was purchased by Gilson Judd in 1858 and the old house was torn down in 1884. The picture was taken in the summer of 1883.
That part of Northampton street near the site of the old Miller house, has an air of greater antiquity than any other part of the street within the Holyoke line. Here is "Crafts'," the tavern of 60 years ago, here the stage stopped, here the mail was delivered for the "parish," and here when the days are long and the breath of summer fills every part of the stout old building, can the visitor listen to stories of the old days told by one whose intellect and energies are keen and whose executive ability is vig- orous, Mrs. Chester Crafts, who, at the age when most women lay aside their duties, still reigns queen of the old tavern, mistress of her own home. North of the old inn was a store where everything could be bought. This was kept by "Chet" Crafts, the hotel proprietor. Nearly opposite are the mulberry trees planted when the silk worm craze was at its height, here the weather beaten house first erected for a corn kiln, now occupied by Mrs. Sophie Williston, who is drawing a pension for services of her husband, a soldier in the war of 1812, next to the home where the late Deacon Hervey Chapin died a few years ago, after a long and useful life.
Farther down the street, just south of THE OLD BROWN HOUSE. Ball's corner, John J. Conkling kept a store, and where the Harlan Coit family live was the tavern kept by Amos Allen. Another house which enjoyed to the full the flavor of a long gone time, was the Samuel Ely place on Depot hill, of whom mention is made later. This branch of the Ely family has many descendants prominent in Holyoke life today, and is an illustrious name. Enoch Ely once lived in what is known as the old " Brown house," which stands in the "street" just south of Willow street.
16
Mr. Ely had fought in the war of the colonies against Great Britain and afterwards took part in Shay's brief rebellion. It is related that during the surging up and down the valley of the insurgents who refused to pay the taxes imposed after the war, the old house was fired upon and until within a dozen years the bullet holes could be seen in the strong double front door. They were fired there by the rebels in their search for Enoch, who at that time was probably in the woods. A pleasanter chapter in the history of the old house are the stories related by Horace Brown, the owner, of the days when the stretch of river just below the city was used as the Yale-Harvard course, and the crews were quartered in this house on the "street," then used as a hotel. Here the "boys" consumed the viands which make blood, muscle and bone, and lounged under the fine elm trees when not practicing in their shells.
Three years after the establishment of the First Congregational church society is found the beginning of the "deestrict" school record, showing that religion and education supplemented each other in the good old New Eng- land way. The book, a pamphlet with a dark brown cover of heavy paper, very much worn and ragged as to edges, and yellow and stained within, bears on its pages the hand-writing of men whose hands grew too weary to chronicle earth's records many years ago and passed on, leaving memoirs of disinterested endeavor to those who took up the responsibilities of their elders. Again, for he touched the life of the early days at every point where his influence could be used for good, we find Elder Rand active and alert in school matters. Under date of October 25, 1814, it was voted in the school record book, "that Rev. Thomas Rand make the fires in the mornings seasonable and to be exempt from furnishing wood." To understand the reference to wood it is necessary to refer to the first entry in the record. After stating that the record is "A school book for the Middle District in 3d parish of West Springfield, be- gun Nov. 29, 1805," it is voted "that we bring one-fourth of a cord of wood for each scholar that we send to school, in our turns, as we shall draw in our turns, or pay eight shillings for each cord of wood that the committee shall provide ready and fit for fire." 'The same evening it was voted that "we give Caleb Humeston three shillings a week for boarding Miss Sally Clapp three months." Peresh Hitchcock was moderator of this meeting. The school house was located near Mr. Rand's home and as late as 1821 we find voted, "that Rev. Thomas Rand make the fires in the morning seasonable as he has usually done," so this became like other attributes of this good man, a habit as long as such offices were necessary. The wood question seemed to have been a troublesome one. October 25, 1814, voted "that those who were behind in wood bring first, and all that bring wood bring a bill of the same to Caleb Humeston." Under date of Nov., 1807, it is found "that each scholar be provided with one-fourth of a cord of wood at the school house cut for the fire and corded." Also voted "that Caleb Humeston be a committee of inspection of the wood."
I7
MORGAN HOMESTEAD, NORTHAMPTON STREET.
18
BACK STREET DRIVE.
Mr. Humeston as clerk must have suffered some discouragement, for Monday, May 11, 1818, he records : "According to adjournment I attended at the school house, there was no man appeared and of course no business could be attended to. Attest. Caleb Humeston." During the early days of the school these men promised to pay the sum opposite their names, 50 cents, for "a stove in the school house :" Caleb Humeston, Samuel Gill, Noah Wolcut, Stephen Chap- in, Eli Thorpe, Miles Dickerman, Elijah Hitchcock, Seymour Gill, Justin Chapin, Thomas Rand, Nathaniel Thorpe, Harmon Fuller, Abraham Ives.
One of the last entries is September, 1849, in which Miles Dickerman is moderator; Abraham Ives, clerk ; Miles Dickerman, committee ; Abraham Ives, assistant committee. And then came the time when old things became new and the town of Holyoke was incorporated.
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