Ryal Side from early days of Salem colony, Part 1

Author: Pierce, Calvin P
Publication date: 1931
Publisher: Cambridge, Printed at the Riverside Press for the Beverly historical Society
Number of Pages: 266


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RYAL SIDE FROM EARLY DAYS OF SALEM COLONY


CALVIN P. PIERCE


Gc 974.402 Sa32pi 1822518


M. L.


REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION


ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01095 5927


(Beverly)


A157-51


-


RYAL SIDE FROM EARLY DAYS OF SALEM COLONY


RYAL SIDE FROM EARLY DAYS OF SALEM COLONY


By CALVIN P. PIERCE


With Illustrations


CAMBRIDGE Printed at The Riverside Press for THE BEVERLY HISTORICAL SOCIETY


MDCCCCXXXI


SHOWING SUBDIVISIONS AND LOCATIONS OF LANDMARKS, ACCORDING TO OFFICIAL AND PRIVATE SURVEYS


A Woolestone (Danvers) River


21


21


21


3 Elliott Street - new part, 1810


4 Junction of Elliott Street and Dark Lane


5 Long; also Leach's Cove


6 Old Leach burial lot


7 Site of Lawrence Leach house


8 Old way through Ryal Side


22


8x Cressy Street


9 Brackett's Cove


IO Muddy Cove


17x Old Green Street


18 Proprietor's Way


28 King's Cove


35 Ellingwood's Cove


35x Abraham Reid's house C Bass River


36 Pine Cove


D Draper's Lane


70,55'


54


12 Leased to John Leach - 1677 waterway


42° 34'


AFolly Hill


P


1


14


0


14


17


20


23


0


0


12


12


13/19


16X


140


15


25


2b


12


15 X


2.5


13


44


13


120


90 X


IN


Powy


ER


10


11


11


To Flag in the


TT


3 º


A


Beverly


A


33


32


35 %


Hospital Pt.


37


Woodberrys Pt.


c


40


Tucks Pt.w


BEVERLY HARBOR


Ig First landing-place -


land, black oak tree


1635


shall - 1636


30 Leased to John Green - 167


9 Israel Green's house


site of first house


40 John Green's house


H Captain John Dodge house


I Felton's Meadow


42 Bushnell Lot - 1636


T Holton's; also Creesy's Meadow


43 Land of Henry Herrick


32x Newman's Corner


Land of Edmund Grover -1636


K House of John Batchelder, Sr.


16 Land of Nicholas Hayward - 1642


25 Granted to William King - 1636


33 Stoney Cove; also Aunt


26 King's Lane


Betty's Cove


45 Land of Gervas Garford


L House of John Batcheider, Tr.


M Herrick's Bridge


N Henry Cook's Lot - 1638


18x Giles's Lane; also Batchelder's 29 John Scudder's house and tannery -- 1642


29x Granted to Edmund Mar-


37 Salt House Point


37x Location of Salt House F Henry Herrick's Rock


38 Ensign Dixie's Cove


G John Green's Gate and


2 Boundary - Leach and Barney, since 1643


13 Leased to John Batchelder - 1677


20 Present location of U.S. M.A.A. Club House


21 Conant Street


13x Head bound of John Batchelder's land, white oak tree.


21x Horse Bridge


14 Cornelius Baker farm


15 Land of Cornet Howard


15x Chanted Swamp


16x Land of Abraham Warren-1635 17 Old way into Ryal Side


27 John Friend's cornmill - 1647


34 Granted to Henry Skerry -1654


-1636


B Present location of Bridge Street


0 John Dodge land


P John Raymond farm


E Mill Lane - 1657


12x Head bound of John Leach's


I Land of Jacob Barney


30x Green's Hill


31 Coal Pit Hill, site of Ryal


22 Cabot Street


23 Balch Street


32 Granted to John Winthrop, Jr. - 1639


4I Draper's Point - second landing-place


Side Schoolhouse


24 Old Planter's Path


II Leased to John Tompkins and II others - 1677


22


.19


17


29x


.


A


'Salem Bridge:


RYAL SIDE FROM EARLY DAYS OF SALEM COLONY


By CALVIN P. PIERCE


With Illustrations


CAMBRIDGE Printed at The Riverside Press for THE BEVERLY HISTORICAL SOCIETY


MDCCCCXXXI


COPYRIGHT, 1931, BY BEVERLY HISTORICAL SOCIETY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED


PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.


1822518


TO MY FRIEND MISS KATHARINE PEABODY LORING PRESIDENT OF THE BEVERLY HISTORICAL SOCIETY


For her interest and encouragement in the publication of this work and for her benevolent activities and patriotic public service, this volume is respectfully dedicated.


INTRODUCTORY


ALTHOUGH the chapters which comprise this volume do not furnish a complete account of the original ownership of all the lands of the early settlers of Ryal Side, I have taken from the records of the Registry of Deeds and Probate Court for Essex County, records of the Quar- terly Courts for Essex County, Salem and Beverly town records, Essex Institute, Beverly Public Library, Bev- erly Historical Society, Church records, private diaries, published surveys, and other reliable references, such information as I could gather, in the limited time at my disposal from a daily employment, concerning the set- tlement and early ownership of these lands, and which I hope will, at least, give to some future student a suitable beginning for research work, as well as provide for those presently interested an acquaintance with the names and settlements of those who, nearly three centuries ago, established their homesteads on these lands.


From the Batchelder and Cressy genealogies and from Stone's 'History,' I have considered some informa- tion and data, which, upon verification, I have found reliable and of assistance.


When I began this pastime some twenty years ago, the older residents, who had known the district for many years, and who might have given me authentic informa- tion concerning landmarks and of people and events of the last century, had passed away, but the kindly as- sistance I received from Mr. Alvah J. Bradstreet pro-


viii


INTRODUCTORY


vided a key which revealed the solution of several pro- blems and cleared what was, in the beginning, a hazy situation. I now thank him for his interest.


I have received also from Mr. Albert H. Richardson, City Engineer, and the employees of his office, Miss Alice G. Lapham, Mr. P. Russell Bosworth, Miss Mabel B. Perry, Mr. Fred H. Wallis, Mrs. Lizzie W. Flint, Mr. Ulysses G. Haskell, Miss Marjorie H. Stanton, Libra- rian, and the employees of the Beverly Public Library, generous assistance which I sincerely appreciate. The friendly disposition shown by Mr. George H. Snow, who provided much of the photographic work shown in this volume, calls for my grateful recognition.


I must not forget the interesting and instructive hours I have spent with Mr. George W. Dodge, 151 Conant Street, Danvers, whose reliable information concerning events in the neighborhood of his home, and covering a period of eighty years of his life, has been to me of ma- terial profit and personal pleasure.


CALVIN P. PIERCE


EXPLANATORY


EXCEPT where the records refer to and spell the name of the district otherwise, it will be spelled in these chapters in accordance with that form in common usage, 'Ryal Side.' There is no authority for any particular manner of spelling nor in the form of the name. It is spelled and referred to in the ancient records as 'Ryal Side,' 'Rial Side,' 'Ryal Syde,' 'Ryall Side,' 'Royall Side,' 'Ryalls Side,' 'Royalls neck,' 'Royalls neck Side,' 'Royalls neck on the Cape an Side,' and perhaps a few other forms. I have seen 'real sid' employed as a designation.


As the district lies between Bass River on the east and Frost Fish River on the west, there is the formation of a neck of land, which accounts for the name appearing in the early records as 'Ryalls neck' or 'Royalls neck.'


A genealogist of the family refers to the emigrant woodsman, from whose name the name of the district was given, as spelling his name 'Ryal'; with later mem- bers of the family, it was 'Ryall,' while those of later ancestry chose 'Royall.'


The names of the various rivers, brooks, hills, coves, meadows, swamps, ways, and other landmarks by which they were known in the early days, but now lost in the passing centuries, are indicated on the map near the first cover and in the text, and of these, Bass River alone retains its original name and was so called nearly three centuries ago. Granted lands and leased lands are shown on the map near the last cover.


CONTENTS


RYAL SIDE: ORIGIN OF THE NAME - EARLY SETTLERS AND THEIR LANDS I


LEASES OF THE COMMON LAND OF RYAL SIDE IN THE YEAR 1677/78 12


LANDS OF RICHARD INGERSOLL 18


LANDS OF LAWRENCE LEACH


24


LANDS OF JACOB BARNEY


30


THE SALT HOUSE AND NEWMAN LANDS 36


LANDS OF WILLIAM KING


49


ROBERT STONE ESTATE


61


FAMILIES OF EARLY DAYS WHO LIVED NEAR KING'S COVE


64


THE OLD CORNMILL


75


MILL STREET - 'A HIGHWAY FROM THE MILL AND MEETING HOUSE'


84


LANDS OF JOHN BACHELOR


91


LANDS OF JOHN BATCHELDER, 2D


98


ESTATE OF JOSHUA BATCHELDER IO8


ESTATE OF JONATHAN BATCHELDER


II5


ESTATE OF JOSIAH BATCHELDER I2I


ESTATE OF JONATHAN CRESSY, 2D


130


JOHN CRESY -HIS ANCESTRY AND ESTATE


I3I


LANDS OF JOHN GREEN I40


THE SECOND PARISH CHURCH


150


THE RYAL SIDE SCHOOL 160


INDEX 167


ILLUSTRATIONS


SHOWING SUBDIVISIONS AND LOCATION OF LANDMARKS, ACCORDING TO OFFICIAL AND PRIVATE SURVEYS


Frontispiece


SALTHOUSE POINT AND DIXIE'S COVE 2


HEAD BOUNDS OF THE BATCHELDER LANDS 14


FROM BROWN'S FOLLY, LOOKING WEST 20


HOUSE OF RUFUS PUTNAM 28


BASE OF FOLLY HILL


32


SALTHOUSE POINT, LOOKING WEST FROM THE GREEN LANDS


38


SKETCH OF SALTHOUSE POINT


38


REID'S AND NEWMAN'S


42


THE 'POINTING ROCK' AT STONEY COVE


44


KING'S LANE, LOOKING SOUTH


50


ANDREW ELLIOTT HOUSE


58


KING'S COVE


64


JOSEPH MASURY HOUSE


70


AT THE HEAD OF BASS RIVER


76


THE OLD CORNMILL 78


BENJAMIN ELLIOTT HOUSE


90


JOHN BATCHELDER, 2D, HOUSE


IO2


JOSHUA BATCHELDER HOUSE


IIO


THE GREAT ELM TREE II2


xiv


ILLUSTRATIONS


ASA AND NATHANIEL BATCHELDER HOUSE I18


THE AUNT SARAH CRESSY PASTURE I18


DODGE-GILES HOUSE I28


THE OLD BLACKSMITH SHOP


I28


JONATHAN CRESSY, 2D, HOUSE


I30


DEACON JOHN CRESY HOUSE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CEN- TURY I36


DEACON JOHN CRESY HOUSE OF THE TWENTIETH CEN- TURY I36


JOHN GREEN HOUSE I42


ON THE GREEN LANDS LOOKING TOWARD BEVERLY I46


ON THE GREEN LANDS LOOKING TOWARD THE CORN- MILL I46


MR. JOHN PORTER AND WIFE, HANNAH I48


SECOND PARISH CHURCH BUILDING, NORTH BEVERLY 152


RYAL SIDE SCHOOL OF 1890 162


RYAL SIDE SCHOOL OF 1900 164


GRANTED AND LEASED LANDS At end


RYAL SIDE FROM EARLY DAYS OF SALEM COLONY


RYAL SIDE


ORIGIN OF THE NAME - EARLY SETTLERS AND THEIR LANDS


THE origin of the name 'Ryal Side' undoubtedly arose from the direct association with these lands of an English emigrant by the name of William Ryal, or Ryall. He came in 1629 on one of the three ships in the service of the New England Company which sailed at the same time, the George Bonaventura," Lyon's Whelp, and Talbot.2 The letter from the Governor and Deputy of the New England Company to Captain Endicott at Salem, dated Gravesend, the 17th of April, 1629, con- tains the earliest reference that can be found concerning him:


'William Ryall and Thomas Brude, Coops and Cleav- ers of Tymber, are entertained by us in halfes wth Mr Craddock or Go pray inoyne other that can assist them unto them and lett them pvide some Staves and other Tymber of all sorts to bee sent us by the Talbot, Whelpe or other 2 Shipps that come after.' In the letter there is also found another reference: 'We have advised you of the sending of Willm Ryall and Thomas Brude, Cleavers of Tymber.'


It appears that by occupation William Ryal was a


I The Bonaventura sailed from the Isle of Wight, May 4, 1629.


2 The Whelp and Talbot sailed from the Isle of Wight, May 11, 1629.


2


RYAL SIDE


cooper and cleaver of timber, his ability as a woodsman being the probable reason for his selection by the New England Company as one of the two men to labor in the forest of the common lands of Salem. His name is not mentioned in the town records of Salem, nor in the records of the Quarterly Courts. As the earliest known records of Salem appear to be as of 1634, Ryal un- doubtedly went away from the place as early as that year.


By way of inducement or additional compensation for his settlement and labor, he may have received a grant of land from the town, of which there is no record, but if such a concession was extended to him, the assign- ment of these lands to subsequent grantees indicates a reversion of any rights or privileges he may have re- ceived from the Town of Salem upon his removal to Sagadahoc (Maine), where, in 1635, he obtained posses- sion of a large tract of land out of the grand patent.


In a letter to former President John Adams, dated October 10, 1809, Dr. William Bentley, of Salem, writes: 'Gov. Endicott came to Salem in 1728 [error for 1628]. His farm still retains his name. Opposite to him, the King's Forrester, Mr Rial was ordered to settle & the name "Rials side" is still retained.' I


Mr. Ryal appears to have been willing to part with some of his concession at Casco Bay, for in the journal of Governor Winthrop, under date of May 15, 1639, the Governor states: 'One Mr. Ryall having gotten a patent at Sagadahoc out of the grand patent, wrote to our governor and tendered it to our government, so we I Diary of Dr. William Bentley.


SALTHOUSE POINT AND DIXIE'S COVE


From Ward One Playground, looking west. William Ryal hewed timber on these shores, 1630


3


ORIGIN OF THE NAME


would send people to possess it. The governor ac- quainted the general court with it, but nothing was done about it for we were not ready for such a business, having enough to do at home.'


The first mention made of the locality in the town records of Salem appears in the minutes of the Select- men, where the following action was recorded at a 'meeting held on the 25 of the 2 moneth 1638':


'Item ther is granted to Mr John Winthrop Jun. liberty to set a Salt house upon Ryalls side with wood for his occasions about the same house and Comon for 2 Cows to pasture in.' I


While this was the first reference to the name, the district was the subject of official attention of the Selectmen, as several grants of land had been made and the grantees had established their homes here prior to that time, for in 1635 the Selectmen voted, 'That Lawrence Leach, Richard Ingersoll & others be sure to lea(ve) roome for high wayes for Carts to bring home wood &c.' 2 On December 28, 1635, the Selectmen agreed 'That Abram Warren may haue a 10 acre lott and an howse lott.' 3


In this wild and unsettled region the pioneers came to establish their homes, secure admission to freeman- ship, obtain grants of land and build their cabins. The woodsman's axe was the tool used to provide shelter for the settler and his family and from the streams and forest came his sustenance until he could secure the


I Salem Town Records, volume I, page 70.


2 Salem Town Records, volume I, page 9.


3 Salem Town Records, volume I, page II.


4


RYAL SIDE


necessary implements to obtain from the soil a better and more comfortable condition of living. After he had provided himself with shelter, it became necessary for him to find the most convenient way to his neighbor's plantation, to the streams, the springs, and later, to the meeting house, the cornmill, and the sawmill as these became established.


The drift ways for cattle were, in some instances, found to be sufficiently well located for convenience of public travel, and they were engaged by the town, widened and determined as town highways, parts of which are existing and used today.


While the records seem to indicate a ready thrift and progress on the part of some of the settlers, there are evidences of hardship and poverty in several cases and the uphill struggle for existence was plainly evident in the meager and scanty inventory of their worldly possessions.


Early after the establishment of Salem Township, there was a requirement upon the intended settler that his application for admission as an inhabitant should be approved before he could obtain a settlement, and upon becoming a freeman his privileges were extended and a grant of land was made to him which he was sup- posed to improve and use for the material welfare of himself, advancing the value of the lands he ac- cepted.


In a number of cases it is evident that the land as- signed to some of the early inhabitants was not im- proved by them and was afterward granted to other applicants, either by reason of abandonment or from


5


ORIGIN OF THE NAME


other causes, and it also appears that lands were as- signed which were not available, the lack of a sufficient record being sometimes the cause of conflict and action at law.


Disputes over land boundaries and the laying-out of highways were not uncommon at Ryal Side in the early days and the records show in several instances that Jacob Barney and Jeffrey Massey, two members of the Board of Selectmen, were usually called to adjust the difficulty.


According to the Salem town records, the lots or grants were laid out and the lines defined by the 'lott layers,' who from as early as 1635 were vested with this authority. It was made compulsory that those to whom lands had been assigned should report 'to the men appoynted to lay out bounds ... And that eurie mans bounds may be recorded upon ye penaltie of Xs I (pvided that those deputed to lay out bounds be paid for yr paynes).'


There is very little in either the town or court records that affords an adequate description of the exact loca- tion of the lands of the early grantees, and to attempt their location by following the information crudely de- scribed in the instrument, metes and definite bounds not being given, is a problem. A considerable number of them, however, have been accurately placed.


Springs, brooks, and wells are commonly mentioned as points and bounds, and the actual location of these affords a source of proof, but in the passing of centuries, many of such landmarks have become nearly obliter-


I Ten shillings.


6


RYAL SIDE


ated, and the trees, stumps, and bushes, also frequently referred to, have long since disappeared.


Although the development of the lands, the building of new streets, and other geographical changes have caused a removal of the original walls separating the lands of the various proprietors, erected perhaps from two to three centuries ago, many miles of them are still standing and their courses are found on the map of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, made from the survey of 1848,' which will correspond with such information as may be found in the town records and the recorded deeds of the prior owners of the sub- divisions.


The description found in the report of Richard Leach and Francis Nurse, in the lay-out of the land assigned to Elizabeth Newman,2 a daughter of John Winthrop, Jr., by order of the Town of Salem in 1678, found in the Book of Grants, is the best, and in fact the only definite, account which fairly describes the location of lands officially assigned at Ryal Side. They were probably enjoined by the town to be as accurate as possible in this matter, as this lay-out of forty-four acres was the result of an agreement in settlement in an action to recover, brought by the heirs of John Winthrop, Jr.3


Names associated with lands at Ryal Side, as indi- cated by the earliest town records, were Lawrence Leach, Richard Ingersoll, William King, Abraham War-


I Land divisions and landmarks are shown on map in the first part of the book.


2 Granted lands and leased lands are shown on map in the last part of the book.


3 Records of the Quarterly Courts of Essex County, volume 6, page 244.


7


ORIGIN OF THE NAME


ren, Henry Herrick, Jacob Barney, John Batchelder, John Kitchen, Thomas Robbins, Nicholas Hayward, John Leach, John Friend, Esdras Read, John Holgrave, John Marston, John Scudder, John Porter, Edward Bishop, John Green, John Tompkins, Jr., Joshua Ray, Samuel Leach, Richard Leach, Robert Cue, John Flint, John Dodge, Cornelius Baker, Henry Cooke, and John Bulfinch.


Many of these men received grants of land in the earliest days of the establishment of the Town of Salem, some as early as 1635, and others were purchasers of the rights in the lands of the original grantees. Some of them were active in the affairs of the township and lived at Ryal Side until their death.


For valuable assistance or services, parcels were granted to town officials who did not live here, notably Jeffrey Massey, a selectman, and Henry Skerry, marshal of the town.


Of the old planters whose names are here given, those of Lawrence Leach and Richard Ingersoll ' appear first in the town records and Abraham Warren 2 next, in May and December respectively, in the year 1635.


Leach and Ingersoll were neighbors. Mr. Leach lived on the western side of the 'greate hill' (Folly Hill), and the wall which now may be seen running over the hill, south of the Salem Reservoir, marks the northerly boundary of his lands. He lived here until he sold his farm to his son, Richard, taking up his residence in a small house which stood at what is now the junction of


I Salem Town Records, volume 1, page 9.


2 Salem Town Records, volume I, page II.


8


RYAL SIDE


Mckay and Elliott Streets, which was included in the cornmill property which he bought of John Friend.


Mr. Ingersoll lived on the point of land called 'Inger- soll's Point' through which Liberty Street in Danvers now runs to the river. He was the ferryman and lived here until his death. His lands lay west of Mr. Leach's, the easterly boundary being what is now called 'Dark Lane.' His farm was next possessed by Jacob Barney after considerable litigation with the Ingersoll heirs.


Abraham Warren had a small acreage in the vicinity of the golf grounds on the northerly side of Elliott Street and his house was here. At his death, the inventory taken by his son-in-law, John Green, showed a scanty estate.


Dark Lane, Cressy Street, and a major portion of Elliott Street, comprised the old way 'Through Royall side,' which was there as early as 1650 and was the only way which gave the planters, living in the western dis- trict, access to John Friend's cornmill on Bass River, which was established as early as 1647.


The lands earliest assigned lay in the northern portion of the district, while many acres in the southern part were designated as 'townes comon' and were disposed of to various lessees under a general lease by the Town of Salem, February 1, 1677,' 'for ye full space and tearme of one thousand years.' A great part of these lands lay south of Cressy and Elliott Streets, extending to Bass River on the south and Danvers River on the west.


The boundaries of the land leased to these men were made sufficient to cover the one hundred acres leased to


I Salem Town Records, volume 2, page 269.


9


ORIGIN OF THE NAME


each, in addition to and enclosing the lands already held by them in fee; as, for instance, the lots granted to John Bulfinch and John Marston, lying south and north of Elliott Street, respectively, near Eastern Avenue and Hillside Avenue, were within the Batchelder boundary, John Batchelder, 2d, having acquired these lots.


At the time of the incorporation of Beverly, October 14, 1668,1 its western boundary extended no further than Bass River and a line running northerly from the head of that river by Horse Bridge to the Wenham line, ex- cluding Ryal Side and the territory lying between Frost Fish Brook and Bass River.2


Religious association with Beverly was permitted to the people living within these boundaries by vote of the Town of Salem in 17II.


Prior to 1753, the boundary line separating Beverly from Salem began at 'A Rock at ye head of Bassriver .... Which rock is alsoe twenty four foot or thereabouts from a small brooke North Northwest & from said Rock nigh North & by west half a point westerly athwart Capt. Dodges Dwelling house 3 six foot to ye Eastward


I Passed October 14, 1668, Mass. Archives, volume CXII, pages 182-183.


2 On May 28, 1659, the people on the Cape Ann side of Bass River, peti- tioned the General Court to be established as a separate township. This was referred to Salem with the understanding that, if there were no objection, Salem was to set the bounds. Salem set the bounds December 14, 1659, and Bass River was to be the easterly boundary. May 27, 1668, the people of Cape Ann side again petitioned that they be incorporated as a town. On the same date, the General Court 'on perusall of their petition judge meet to grant their request' if Salem concurred. Salem replied, 'that they did not see cause to consent further.' On October 14, 1668, 'The Court on perusall of this returne, Judge it meete to grant that Bass River be henceforth a township of themselves, referring it to Salem to accommodate them with lands & bounds suitably for them & that it be called Beverly.'


3 A portion of the boundary rock was removed when Mckay Street was


IO


RYAL SIDE


of his brik Chimney as it now stands.'' This line con- tinued 'in ye same point of ye Compass' across the arable land of Captain John Dodge to the land of William Rayment, thence to near the land of Deacon Peter Woodbury to Horse Bridge and passing on through the land of Captain William Dodge to the Wenham line.


All territory lying west of this line and Bass River to Frost Fish Brook continued a part of Salem until September II, 1753, when it was annexed to Beverly.2 Thus Ryal Side did not become a part of Beverly until about eighty-five years after the incorporation of the town.


This territory continued a part of Beverly until April 27, 1857, at which time the western portion of it was annexed to Danvers as indicated by the present line.


The meadow stream running out of Bass River, northerly, now known as 'Bell's Brook,' was formerly called 'Horse Brook,' and crosses Conant Street a short distance westerly from Cabot Street, and the bridge at this point was called 'Horse Bridge.'


In the early part of the eighteenth century, the dis- trict was known as the 'Precinct of Salem and Beverly,'


constructed. The site of Captain John Dodge's house was at the first tee of the United Shoe Machinery Athletic Association golf course and the line ran through the land of the United Shoe Machinery Corporation, northerly, parallel with Mckay Street.




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