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Gc 974.402 F66s 1214080
M. L.
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01100 0483
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015
https://archive.org/details/historyofflorenc00shef_0
THE
HISTORY OF FLORENCE,
MASSACHUSETTS.
INCLUDING A COMPLETE ACCOUNT OF THE
NORTHAMPTON ASSOCIATION OF EDUCATION AND INDUSTRY.
ILLUSTRATED.
EDITED BY CHARLES A. SHEFFELD.
FLORENCE, MASS .: PUBLISHED BY THE EDITOR. 1895.
COPYRIGHT, IS94, By CHARLES A. SHEFFELD.
1214080
TO MY GRANDFATHER,
Samuel Lapham bill,
WHOSE KINDNESS AND BENEVOLENCE, WHOSE MORAL COURAGE, REMARKABLE SAGACITY, AND TIRELESS ENERGY WILL EVER BE GRATEFULLY REMEMBERED BY THE CITIZENS OF FLORENCE, I DEDICATE THIS BOOK.
PREFACE.
MANY events have occurred in Florence that have rendered it a village of especial interest and have given it distinction, and this work is offered to the public in the hope that not only its present citizens, but those who will make Florence their home, in years to come, may find it both interesting and valuable.
Three years ago, upon the suggestion of a friend, a book illustrating the picturesque attractions of the village was conceived, and a beginning made. As no one could be found to contribute an adequate historical sketch, the writer reluctantly assumed the task.
A little research revealed a mine of material as yet undisturbed by the historian's pickaxe, which made it apparent that something more comprehensive than a mere sketch was needed, and the result is the history that forms Part I. However, the original idea of giving variety to the text by having many contribute has not been abandoned, but instead of the six articles, at first projected, the number has been in- creased to thirty-seven.
We take pleasure in acknowledging our great indebtedness to the researches of Sylvester Judd, Esq., and to the files of the Gazette, which have yielded valuable material. Other sources of information have been the town and county records, the manuscript documents of the old "Community," and the memories of aged persons. We are under special obligations to our contributors, whose assistance has added much to the value of the work.
The engravings were made by the Springfield Photo-Engraving Company and the Boston Engraving Company from pen and ink sketches, of which the greater number were the work of Miss Susanne Lathrop, and of which four were contributed by Miss Helen Louise Davis, and from photographs by Clifton Johnson, Ferdinand Schadee, W. A. Sheldon, and the Editor. The landscapes on pages 70 and 91 were photographed by Miss Mabel Hinckley, who manifested as an
4
PREFACE.
amateur photographer the enthusiasm and devotion that were distin- guishing traits of her character. To her the Editor owes his interest in the camera, an interest that finally led to the inception of this book.
To the custodians of the records in public offices and to their clerks ; to the librarians at the Center and Florence; to James R. Trumbull, for valuable assistance with the Judd manuscripts ; to E. C. and E. E. Davis, for instruments loaned to take altitudes ; to The Price & Lee Co., for permission to use the map of Florence ; to Charles F. Warner, for per- mission to use the biographical sketch of C. C. Burleigh, first published in the Hampshire County Journal; to Miss Ella C. Elder and Miss Ellen E. Osgood, for helpful and painstaking criticisms upon the Editor's manu- script ; to Arthur G. Hill, for unwearied co-operation in many directions, as well as to the multitude of other friends, at home and abroad, whose kindness has been unfailing .- the Editor hereby tenders grateful thanks.
FLORENCE, MASS .. December 22, 1894.
CONTENTS
PART I.
CHAPTER I. TOPOGRAPHICAL. PAGE.
Natural Features of the Territory-Description of Ancient Localities, and Places of Special Interest, II
CHAPTER II. INTRODUCTORY.
How Northampton was Settled-The Nonotuck Indians-The Deed of North- ampton-Condition of the Country as the Settlers Found it-The Divis- ion of the Lands at Nonotuck, .18
CHAPTER III. FROM 1654 TO FIRST SETTLEMENT.
The First Visit of the English to Florence Territory, and the First Owners of Land there-The First Enterprise in Florence-The Sawmill of Ly- man Brothers, Wright & Parsons-The One Acre Grant to Parsons, and its Contribution to the Early History of the Place-The Hulberts, 22
CHAPTER IV. FIRST SETTLEMENT.
The French and Indian Wars Hindered the Settlement of Outlying Dis- tricts-The Settlement Begun-The First House Built-Daniel War- ner the Second Settler-Story of the Phelps House-Gaius Burt Comes in 1798-Josiah White and His Oil Mill-First House in the Center of the Village, 1809, .
20)
6
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V. SETTLEMENT CONTINUED. PAGE.
The Tavern of Solomon Warner-Captain Julius Phelps Comes in 1815 --- Enoch Jewett, 1816-William Warner, 1817-The Seth Warner House- Colonel Thomas Pomeroy, 1820-The Dwight Farm-The Oliver Warner Tavern in the Twenties, 37
CHAPTER VI. FROM 1831 TO 1835.
The " Traveler's Home "-The Tavern Stand ; and an Evening Scene-Early Roads and Bridges-The Later History of the Saw, Grist and Oil Mills, 45
CHAPTER VII. MULBERRY FEVER AND SILK ENTERPRISE.
Early Biography of Samuel Whitmarsh-The Northampton Silk Company -- Later Enterprises of Mr. Whitmarsh-David Lee and Lydia Maria Child-Josiah Gilbert Holland, 55
CHAPTER VIII. NORTHAMPTON ASSOCIATION OF EDUCATION AND INDUSTRY.
The Spirit of the Times-The Transcendental Movement-Kindred Associa- tions. Brook Farm and Hopedale-The Projectors of the Northampton Association-Why Florence was Selected as the Site of the New Ven- ture-The Leaders Buy the Silk Company's Property-The Preliminary Circular-Organization-Constitution and By-Laws-Items from the Secretary's Book, . 65
CHAPTER IX. VORHAMPTON ASSOCIATION .- Continued.
The Years 1843, 1844, 1845. 1846 Causes of the Dissolution-Membership List-Notes, . 87
CHAPTER N. ABRIDGED ANNALS.
How Florence Took its Name-Population-First Store-Post Office Estab- Ished Casualties-Cemeteries, . 107
PART II.
OLD COMMUNITY TIMES. PAGE.
Reminiscences,
By Frances P. Judd. 115
When I was a Boy,
118
By George R. Stetson.
When I was a Girl. By a Community Maiden. 23
A Young Man in the Community, 126
By Giles B. Stebbins.
What I Found at the Northampton Association, By Frederick Douglass. 129
The Hutchinsons' Visit,
By John W. Hutchinson. 132
RELIGIOUS HISTORY.
The Congregational Church, 137
Historical Sketch. By Rev. E. G. Cobb. Quarter-Centennial-1866-1891. By Frank N. Look.
Methodism in Florence, 142
By Mary E. Gould.
The Church of the Annunciation, .
145
By Rev. P. H. Gallen.
The Free Congregational Society,
By Henry B. Haven.
EDUCATIONAL HISTORY.
The Florence Public Schools, . 151
By William D. Miller.
The Kindergarten, . 156
Manual Training,
159
By Rev. Frederic A. Hinckley.
The Florence Lyceum,
By Judge Daniel W. Bond. 161
S
CONTENTS.
HISTORIC REMINISCENCES.
PAGE.
Florence, By Mrs. Helen T. Clark. 165
The " Underground Railway." 165 By Joseph Marsh. The Florence Dramatic Club, 168
By Arthur G. Hill.
The Sewing Machine Band, 171
By Edward Birge.
The Fire Department, 176
By Clayton E. Davis.
The Eagle Base Ball Club, 179
By One of the Players.
My Early Recollections. 186
By John B. O'Donnell.
The Munde Water Cure, 190
By Paul F. Munde, M. D.
Florence in the Mill River Flood. By Clayton E. Davis. 193
Florence and the War. 197
By Joseph B. Whitehouse.
What Florence Needs,
By William II. Riley. 201
The Village Improvement Society,
By W. L. Wilcox. 202
BIOGRAPHIES.
Samuel Lapham Hill. 205
Preface. By Seth Hunt Biographical Sketch. By Arthur G. Hill.
Charles C. Burleigh, 211
By Sethe Hunt
Daniel Greene Littlefield.
By the Editor. 214
Mitted Theodore Lilh
From the . Memorial 216
By George P. Warner. 210)
9
CONTENTS.
PAGE.
Elisha Livermore Hammond,
By Harriet B. Gardner. 221
Mary White Bond, . 224
By Martha Bryant Cary.
George A. Burr, 227
By Frank N. Look.
Henry Herrick Bond, 230
By Elizabeth Powell Bond.
John Lord Otis, 233
By the Editor.
INDUSTRIAL INTERESTS, 237
HISTORY OF FLORENCE
1681
1894
CHAPTER 1
TOPOGRAPHICAL
NATURAL FEATURES OF THE TERRITORY .- DESCRIPTION OF ANCIENT LOCALITIES, AND PLACES OF SPECIAL INTEREST.
A BRIEF account of the topography of Florence is necessary to familiar- ize the reader with the ancient names of certain portions of the territory, and to save the continual use of foot notes. Both the old and the mod- ern names are given, and the aim has been to afford a thorough under- standing to all interested.
BOUNDS .- Florence is not incorporated, being simply a part of the city of Northampton, and distinct division lines between the village and adjacent places have never been drawn. The limits of Florence are as vague as some of the original landmarks in the ancient deeds. Individ- uals have ventured opinions as to how far the village extended, but no two have agreed on just the same boundaries. After consulting many citizens, the following lines have been drawn :-
The natural geographical center of the village is near the junction of Main and Maple streets. From this point as a center, with a radius of a little more than three fourths of a mile, or, to be exact, two hundred and fifty-eight rods, describe a circle. The 1894 map plainly shows this circle. If this boundary was made to include more territory to the north and west it would represent the average opinion of those consulted.
Florence is beautifully situated two and one half miles west of North- ampton center, and bounded as above embraces parts of Wards five and seven, and the whole of Ward six of the city, and the circle with a diame- ter of one mile and three fifths incloses an area of about thirteen hundred acres.
ELEVATIONS .- The principal part of Florence is a plateau considerably above the level of Northampton, but the village includes a few elevations worthy of distinctive names.
1 2
HISTORY OF FLORENCE.
Bear Hill is near the northwest boundary of Florence, and north of the John F. Warner homestead. It might be called a continuation of the elevation extending from Haydenville, through the northeast portion of Leeds. From the junction of Bridge road and North Main street, a gradual rise northward for thirty rods brings one to the southern sum-
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WIRD 7
WARD 6.
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AFLOR
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1814
MAP OF FLORENCE .- 1804.
mit, but the highest point is forty rods to the north. This has an eleva- tion of about two hundred feet from the level of the plain below. Bear Hill is the largest and highest hill in Florence. When the Warners came here it was said that they had "moved to Bear Hill." The name is of ancient origin, having been used as early as 1754.
Buti' Aut is next in size to Bear Hill. Strictly speaking it is not wholly within the village limits, the southeastern declivity being part of But State It rises about one hundred feet above the general level of
13
TOPOGRAPHICAL.
the meadows to the west, and takes its name from Edward Baker. (See " Baker's Meadow.") The road running northeast and southwest over its summit was for a long time the only traveled way from Florence to Bay State. Many of the older residents remember climbing the hill in going from village to village.
Brush Hill and Strawberry Hill are names applied to the same eleva- tion, the former being the ancient and the latter the modern appellation. The summit is eighty rods northeast of the steam railroad station. In olden times there were numerous "Brush " Hills in the western part of the township of Northampton. This "Brush " Hill is found in deeds bearing the date of the opening years of this century, and for a long time the hill was known by this name.
FROM BEAR HILL-DOWN THE RAILROAD TRACK.
STREAMS .- Mill River is the only stream of any size within the limits of Florence. It enters the village at the northwest and flows southeasterly. One branch of the river rises in the hills of Goshen, and the other in the southwestern corner of Conway. These branches uniting, the river fol- lows a southeasterly course and empties into the Connecticut River at the "ox-bow." It is noted for its many water privileges, and was made mem- orable by the great flood that swept down its channel in 1874. entailing great loss of life and property.
Broughton's Brook : The northeast corner of Florence, east of Hol- yoke street, is drained by a small brook, which was known in olden times as Broughton's Brook. John Broughton, formerly of Springfield, was
14
HISTORY OF FLORENCE.
one of the first settlers at Northampton in 1654. The brook issues from the woods east of Chestnut street, and flows southerly through the meadows, entering Mill river at Bay State. When electricity came into use as the motive power on the street railway, a dam was built across this stream near Locust street. At one time it must have been quite a stream, but for several years the amount of water in the brook has been gradually decreasing.
PONDS-Warner's Pond is the modern appellation of the small body of water lying between Locust and South Main streets. Soon after 1825 (before 1830) Enoch Jewett built the dam across Broughton's Brook, and raised this pond. The pond takes its name from Joseph Warner, silk manufacturer, for a long time proprietor of the mills now com- monly called Leon- ard's Silk Mills, sit- nated several rods south of the pond. Before Mr. Warner owned the mill the pond was sometimes BAKER'S HILL .- LOOKING FOWARD MOUNTAINS. called Holland's Pond Harvey, son of Harrison, and brother of Dr. Josiah Gilbert Holland, - at one time having had an interest in these mills.
Regni Pont: In many early deeds we have found a reference to Round Poud. This name seems to have been applied to the pond, or more truly speaking to the hole, that is now called Frog Pond. It lies just north of Warren street. In olden times the water in this locality was more abundant than now, and William Strong, born 1820, says that when he was a boy and living here (18.30-40), the pond covered consider- able ground, and that quantities of muck were dug from it each season.
WINDOWS, Broughton's Maddow: The first record of land granted to the original settlers of Northampton, in the territory now embraced by Florence, was a grant of five acres in the meadows in the western part of the village, now known as Ross's Meadow. Broughton's Meadow was used to denote this locality nearly two hundred years, from 1657 to the dissolution of the "Community " in 18.46.
Bikos Metiex : The only way that an early grant of land could be designated or described was by comparing its position with another plot Hotel for some geographical peculiarity, or by its being owned by a per-
15
TOPOGRAPHICAL.
son conspicuous in the affairs of a certain neighborhood. A descriptive term found continually in the old town records is "which lyes up the Mill River." This seems a vague way to designate a piece of property, but with the aid of an additional landmark the land was plotted to the satisfaction and understanding of those concerned. A spot in Florence that served as a landmark, or general reckoning place, in the early days of Northampton was known as Baker's Meadow. This meadow is small in size and lies in the southerly part of the village, south of River road and north of Mill River, the western end being about one hundred rods below the dam of the Nonotuck Silk Company. It is one of the few places so described by the town authorities that after a period of two hundred years the boundaries may still be traced. But for this clear description the very early history of the village would have remained in obscurity, since had we failed to recognize Baker's Meadow the task of locating the one acre grant to Samuel Parsons (mentioned in Chapter IV.) would have been a hopeless one.
The original grant as taken from the town records is as follows :- "The Record of Mr. Edward Baker's land :- More granted to him by the Towne of Northampton as is above expressed lying up the Mill River a prcell of Meadow lying compassed partly with a steep bank somewhat like a halfe moone northerly, easterly against the hill and a brooke, Bordering on the Mill River Southerly, (at) the other end of the Meadow the hilly bank comes to the River ; containing in estimation nine acres be the same more or lesse."
The date of this grant was April 2, 1662. An examination of this meadow will show how well the grant describes the spot. It is probable that Baker's Hill was like everything else in the vicinity, "Neere Baker's Meadow," and after a time took the name which to this day commemo- rates the first owner of the meadow below.
WARNER'S (LEONARD'S) POND.
Stoddard's Meadow : The original Stoddard's Meadow comprised the land east of Water street and south of Mill River, and, in the language of the authorities, "lys on the south side of the Mill River opposite or against the land granted by the towne to Edward Baker, and is known
16
HISTORY OF FLORENCE.
by the name of Baker's Meadow." In 1701 this triangular meadow was granted Mr. Stoddard for setting up a sawmill. Later Stoddard's Meadow was the name given to all the interval land between Nonotuck street and the river, from the oil mill on the west to Baker's Hill on the east.
PLAINS .- According to Temple and Sheldon's " Northfield " this term as used by the early settlers had a restricted meaning. It was not applied to level lands in general, but to certain well defined tracts that had some common peculiarity of soil and condition, were nearly free from trees, and could be readily cultivated.
Bear Hill Plain is mentioned in the early deeds and is on the map of 1754. This name was applied to the flat country north of the railroad track, south and east of Bear Hill, and to this day it is sometimes called " the plains."
BROUGHTON'S MEADOW.
The Millstone Mountain Plain recorded on the early maps extended from Bridge road near the Catholic Cemetery south and west to Locust and Hatfield streets. When the railroad was built from Northampton to Williamsburg in 1867 the cut in the vicinity divided this plain into two parts.
Broughton's Meadow Plain is occasionally found in the early records. and included the upland above the river, now the center of the village. Before the formation of the " Community " the term was in common use to designate this locality. Like the greater part of the ancient names this one has long ceased to be used, and is only found in the musty records of the past. The transfer of ownership ordinarily welcomes a new appellation, unless the spot bears some peculiarity so great as to render it and the old name inseparable.
TOPOGRAPHICAL.
MISCELLANEOUS .- Some points of special interest, additional land- marks, it may be well to describe.
Burt's Pit, named for Gaius Burt, lies near the southwestern boundary of Florence, off the road leading to Easthampton. It was previously called Seeger's Swamp. Large quantities of muck are annually dug in this region. "Burt's Road " leads to the pit.
Bear Hill Swamp lies northeast of the hill, in the rear of Spring Grove Cemetery.
ELEVATIONS .- For those who enjoy facts the following table has been inserted. With few exceptions the altitudes have been taken specially for this volume. Figures give the height above mean sea level. The general level of Florence is about 270 feet. Slight mathematical calcu- lations will give the relative height of any point.
Junction Main and Maple streets, 275 feet.
Bear Hill, north summit, 494
Bear Hill, south summit,
430
Baker's Hill, 335
Strawberry Hill,
325
Fortification Hill,
332
Millstone Mountain,
300
Junction Federal and South Main streets,
214
Dam of Nonotuck Silk Company, 232
Dam at Bay State Cutlery, 202
Junction Nonotuck and Maple streets,
235
Floor of Meadow street bridge, 243
MILL RIVER-FROM BRUSH SHOP BRIDGE.
--
CO-MIAN HALI BROUGHTON'S MEADOW-VILLAGE IN DISTANCE.
SCHOOLHOUSE.
METHODIST CHURCH.
CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH.
CHAPTER II.
INTRODUCTORY.
HOW NORTHAMPTON WAS SETTLED .- THE NONOTUCK INDIANS .- THE DEED OF NORTH- VMPTON. - CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY AS THE SETTLERS FOUND IT. - THE DIVISION OF THE LANDS AT NONOTUCK.
IN order properly to follow the course of events leading to the settle- ment of Northampton and Florence, let us briefly consider what otherwise might seem out of place here. The great English emigration to this country which began with the coming of the Pilgrims in 1620, reached its highest mark in 1630, and ten years later had nearly ceased. During this time twenty thousand English came to New England. Towns multiplied rapidly. Differences of opinion in matters of town govern- ment led some adventurous ones to emigrate to the Connecticut Valley, and by 1636 the towns of Wethersfield, Hartford, Windsor, and Spring- field had been founded.
The " Great Falls," as the Indians called the rapid water at South Hadley, hindered the settlement of the attractive country north of them. because all supplies had to come to the new plantations by way of the Connecticut river, therefore no one desired to be above boat navigation. So it was eighteen years after the settlement of Springfield, before North- ampton was founded by men from Wethersfield, Windsor, and Springfield.
The Nonotuck Indians occupied the portion of the Connecticut Valley extending from South Hadley Falls to Mount Wequomps (now Sugar Loaf). In 1690 the tribe numbered not far from three hundred souls, and not more than one hundred of these could have been warriors. They had forts on both sides of the river. They lived on fish, game, nuts, fruits, berries, tuberous roots, Indian corn, pumpkins, and after the English came they raised a kind of bean. They had several cultivated fields of from twelve to twenty acres each. The English always pur- chased the land from the Indians, who knew what a deed meant.
19
INTRODUCTORY.
THE DEED OF NORTHAMPTON.
" Be it known by these presents, that Chickwallopp, alias Wawhillowa, Nenas- sahalant, Nassicohee, Kiunks, Paquahalant, Assellaquompas, & Awonusk, the wife of Wulluther, all Nonotuck, who are the chief & proper owners of all the lands on the west Side of Connecticut river at Nonotuck, on the one * do give, grant, bargain & Sell unto John Pynchon, of Springfield, on the other party, to him, his Heirs, & Assigns, all the Grounds & Meadows, Woods & Ponds & W lying on the west side of Quonetticut river, beginning the Small river (below Munham) called Sankrohonk, & So up by Quonetticut river to the little meadow called Capawonk, namely, to the little brook or Gutter on this Side Capawonk, which little brook is called Masquampe, and the Grounds lying Westward from Con- necticut river (within the Compass Aforenamed) for nine Miles out into the Woods, viz .: as far as Manshoonish is from Springfield,-for So it was expressed to the Indians,-all that Tract of Grounds from Sankronk riveret, & Quonack- quck called Munham, Poihnack, Petowwag, Aspowounk, Luckcommuck, Assat- tayyagg, Nayyagg, Nayyvumkegg, Masqump, & by whatsoever other names the Said Grounds are called, & all out into the woods from the great river for 9 Miles within this compass, The aforesaid Indians, & in Particular Wawhollowa, Nenessahalant, & Nassachohee, being the Sachems of Nonotuck, do for them- selves, & with the Consent of the other Indians and owners of the said Grounds. Sell, Give, and Grant unto John Pynchon, of Springfield, & to his Assigns for & in the Consideration of One hundred fathom of Wampam by Tale & for Ten Coats (beside Some Small Gifts) in hand paid to the said Sachems & owners. all the land aforesaid as * these presents have bargained, Granted & Sold to the said * Pynchon all & Singular the Said lands free from all Incum- brances of Indians, provided the Said Pynchon Shall plow up or cause to be plowed up for the said Indians Sixteen acres of land on the Easterly side of Quo- netticut river, which is to be done Sometime next Summer, 1654; And in the mean time, viz., the next Spring 1654, The Indians have liberty to plant their present Cornfields, but after that time they are wholly to leave that west Side of the river, & not to plant or molest the English there.
" All the Said Premises the Said Pynchon & his Assigns Shall have & enjoy Absolutely & clearly forever, all Incumbrances from any Indians or * their Corn- fields. In Witness of this presents the said Indians have Subscribed their marks this twenty-fourth day of September, 1653."
THE MARKS OF THE INDIANS.
PAQUAHALENT. NENASSAHALENT.
CHICK WALLOP.
NASSICOHEE.
SKITTOMI.
The Indians
NOTE .- This deed was witnessed by four white men and three Indians.
were Wutchamin, Nammeleck, and Skittomp, alias Unquask, of Chicquabee.
* Omissions in deed.
20
HISTORY OF FLORENCE.
Pynchon was agent, purchasing the land for the settlers. This sale of Nonotuck embraced the territory in the present towns of Northampton, Easthampton, Southampton, Westhampton, and a part of Hatfield and Montgomery. Chickwallop, Umpanchella, and Quoquont were the prin- cipal Nonotuck chiefs, and claimed the southern, middle, and northern
part of the territory, respectively.
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