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WAYLAND;
AN HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY
DOROTHY SLEEPER WALSH
C. 2
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974.44 WALSH
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WAYLAND PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 4869 00060 2753
1 2
WAYLAND : AN HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY OF WAYLAND - 1933
by Dorothy C. Sleeper (Walsh)
(NOTE: Mrs. Walsh now lives at 5 Lakeview Road, in Cochituate, and teaches grade 5 at the Claypit Hill Elementary School, in Wayland. She was born and brought up in the town of Wayland, and attended elementary and secon- dary schools in this community. She wrote this history of Wayland while she was attending the high school, at the age of fifteen or sixteen years. The original, con- taining many old photographs, and manuscript in her own handwriting, is still in her possession, and she has kindly given the Social Studies Coordinating Curriculum Committee, of which she is a member, permission to duplicate the materials in the book. 2/21/63 - Helen E. Timson, Chm. of the Committee)
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DEDICATION :
I dedicate this book to the memory of those whose deeds it relates.
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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Boston Public Library
https://archive.org/details/waylandhistorica00wals
** TABLE OF CONTENTS **
DEDICATION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
i1
OLD CONNECTICUT PATH
1
MAP OF EAST SUDBURY SHOWING FIRST ROADS ABOUT 1640 (illustration)
2
THE SUDBURY RIVER
3
THE ORIGINAL INHABITANTS
4
SAILING WESTWARD FROM OLD ENGLAND
5 5
THE FIRST CHURCH IN WAYLAND: 1640 (illustration)
6
"LET US PRAY"
7
A TOWN DIVIDED
8
THE SEAL OF WAYLAND ( illustration)
9
THE SEAL OF WAYLAND
10
THE HAYNES GARRISON ( illustration )
12
THE KING PHILIP WAR IN WAYLAND
10
THE BROWNE GARRISON ( illustration )
13
THE OLD TOWN BRIDGE
14
WAYLAND'S TAVERNS
15
THE SHOE INDUSTRY IN WAYLAND
16
TODAY'S INDUSTRY
17
TRANSPORTATION'S DEVELOPMENT
17
THE GROWTH OF THE SCHOOLS 19
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS WHICH LED THE EARLY PEOPLE TO CHOOSE WAYLAND FOR A SETTLEMENT
20
POINTS OF INTEREST, MONUMENTS, AND OLD NAMES, ETC. 20
HOW COCHITUATE IS RELATED TO THE TOWNS SHOWN ON THE MAP 20
ADDITIONAL NOTATIONS
21
MAP 22
HOME, OUR HOME!
.
"OLD CONNECTICUT PATH"_ -
In the early 1630's when the Massachusetts Bay Colony was short of corn, traders went into "the wilderness" to buy supplies from the Indians. These traders passed west to south through Watertown, Waltham and Woston to Five Paths in Wayland, to Framingham, and westward. They soon met a band of Indians who were willing to sell corn to them.
The new travellers were rather amazed to find such a well- beaten pathway in such a country, but it soon became evident to them that this path was the main highway of travel for the Nipnit Indians who became regular providers for the Bay Colony.
The Old Connecticut was such a fine pathway that it soon became the main artery of travel through to the Connecticut Valley. From 1633 until the late eighteenth century, small group: of courageous settlers were to be seen along the Old Connecticut Path going into the sunset to find their "promised land".
These settlers were really appreciative of good land, so they soon began to notice the splendid opportunities that the land along the Old Connecicut Path offered. From Reeves Hill, an outlook point in Wayland, they soon discovered the rich pas- ture lands to the west, and returned to Watertown with tales of a land of opportunity to the west of the "Path".
By 1637, these travellers were straying from the main trail into some of the bypaths that led into the Musketaquid district which was to become Sudbury and Wayland. They found the Indian name which means "grassy ground" or "meadow brook" described this new land perfectly as the district was a rich, fertile valley which they used for pasture lands and agriculture.
* NOTE:
Extensive research failed to give first use of term Five
Paths.
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Rice Meeting
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Mill Road
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Herbert Pelham.
PROY 21:45 REUSE #
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"THE SUDBURY RIVER "_ -
I am sorry that the name of the river that runs through Wayland has been changed from the descriptive Indian name of MusketAquid to plain, unromantic Sudbury River. One branch of this river which rises in Hopkinton and one in a large cedar swamp in Westboro, winds tortuously through Framingham where it almost forms a complete circle. It enters Sudbury on the south- east corner of the town, and winds its way until it forms about one-half of the boundary between Sudbury and Wayland.
After the river leaves Sudbury, it, with the Assebet River, makes the Concord River. It skirts the borders of Lincoln, Car-
lisle and Bedford. It flows into Billerica, where it is used for power. Then in Lowell it enters the Merrimac River and goes "on: to the sea" at Newburyport.
An interesting fact to notice in connection with the Sudbury River is that small boats used to pass from Boston through the Middlesex Canal, which connected the Middlesex River, into the Concord River and then into the Sudbury River. In Wayland the banks along the many sharp curves of the river are covered with rich meadow grass, but in Cochituate the banks of the stream are covered with but sparse grass and shrubbery with many swamps. The waters of the river move very slowly so there is hardly any evidence of current.
The waters of the river used to abound in perch, pickerel, bream, horned pout, and eel, and muskrats and otters lived on its banks.
One of the social functions of the late summer season in later colonial and Civil War days was the duck hunting along
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the Sudbury River. Now, owing to the scarcity of ducks along the banks there is little or no duck-hunting along the smooth- flowing Musketaquid.
THE ORIGINAL INHABITANTS
In the early seventeenth century, it is believed that a SWEPT OVER THE INDIANS terrible scourge swept over the Indians of Massachusetts and New England. Thousands of red men died, and consequently their numbers were greatly diminished. Later, in 1633, it is supposed that a terrible epidemic of smallpox swept over the Narragansett and Pequot Indians. Although there are no known facts to sub- stantiate this belief, it is very probable that these pestilences reached inward to the inhabitants of Wayland.
When the very earliest explorers came into the Musketaquid section, there were very few Indians. In fact, the absence of Indians was very noticeable. There were, however, several small encampments still remaining. One of the largest of these was on the shores of Cochituate Pond near to the falls that are now a part of Saxonville. This was the largest of a group of small Indian settlements.
The natives lived very simply in rude bark shelters. They built their encampment around a central fire and council lodge. The red men lived mainly by hunting and fishing, as this region offered a rich supply of fish and game such as : bass, pickerel, pouts, eels, perch, deer, pheasants, partridges, ducks, geese, and smaller fur-bearing animals. They did, however, engage in a very rude form of agriculture, and raised corn as their chief product.
*NOTE: 1963 - At this time (and for a number of years previously ) no duck-hunting is permitted owing to the fact that the area of the Sudbury River has been made a preserve for wild life. HET
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Cochituate is one of the few remaining names of pure Indian extraction in this immediate vicinity. Its full meaning is - - "place of rushing torrent" or "wildly dashing brook".
SAILING WESTWARD FROM OLD ENGLAND
From 1633 until 1637, there was a continuous stream of traders going from Watertown to the western part of the state. These travellers brought back tales of a land to the west of Old Connecticut Path in the Musketaquid Valley, so the people of Watertown were soon planning for a settlement in this district. Early in 1637, the first settlers care into the Musketequid region. Oddly enough, these people were not from Watertown, as was originally planned, but most of them came directly from Eng- land. They came from such towns as Lavenham, Sutton, Warwick- shire, Barkhampstead, Hertfordshire, Sandwich, and Cambridge.
These early settlers, as we might guess, were Puritans. They left England because of political and religious unrest, and came to our country to find a haven of rest from this strife. Most of these people were folks of a very fine character. They had the outstanding qualities needed for settlers in a new country They were practical, perserving, self-reliant, religious folk who left comparative comfort in an already established home to come to a new, unknown land full of perils and trials just for the sake of a few very high ideals - and for this we honor them.
HOME, OUR HOME!
The first home of these courageous Puritans were vastly dif- ferent from the well-built homes of the mother land. The differ- ence must have been almost enough to discourage these hardy people
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The First Church in Wayland - 1640
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when the soft, white blanket of winter wrapped them in its stillness miles from other settlements.
Their homegwere of the very rudest type. They were rough cabins of logs with cracks and chinks filled with moss. The scant, pine furniture was grouped around a very large-mouthod BROADENING HEARTH REACHED ALMOST HALFWAY ACROSS fireplace whose broadoning hearth reached almost halfway across the small cabin. Along the plain log wall were arranged the few household utensils, their very necessary firearms and tools.
Their life in these rude, cabins could not have boon very comfortable or joyous, and I cannot help but think of Longfellow' poem when I picture them on chill winter evenings clustered about the open hearth:
"Toiling, rejoicing, sorrowing, Onward through life he goes; Each morning sees some task begun, Each evening sees it close."
"LET US PRAY"
Because these early settlers had come to a new country and had risked all of their possessions, even life, for religion, it seems only natural that one of their first actions would be to build a church.
As early as 1640, less than three years after the first settlers came, these people had built a meeting (house) or church. Before this their services had been held at different homes in the neighborhood.
This meeting house was a simple affair, thirty feet long and ten feet high with a width of only sixteen feet. It was a crude frame building but to them it must have seemed a dream come true.
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Reverend Edward Browne, who lived at Wayland Centre, was the first pastor of this new church that was built where the old North Cemetry is today.
The church was a cross between a Congregational and a Cal- vinistic church. The Congregational form of service was used, but the Calvinistic creed was observed.
This "little church in the wilderness" had a congregation of fifty or sixty families. These people (would ), indeed must have looked to their church for strength when the hardships of life pressed too heavily upon them.
A TOWN DIVIDED
In June 1778 the people of Sudbury met in the east meeting house to decide a very important question. John Tiltow and many others had petitioned for a division of the town, and when a vote was taken at the town meeting, it was voted that Sudbury should be divided into Sudbury and Fast Sudbury. Then a com- i. mittee was chosen to decide upon the boundary line between these two sections that had quarreled over the church. £ This committee could not agree, so in December 1779, a special town meeting was called.
At this town meeting the people decided to petition the General Court of the state for the division. The western part of the town petitioned against the division at the same time. Nevertheless, in April 1789 anract was passed authorizing this separation. The boundary line was finally selected, and the Sudbury River formed about one-half of it between East Sudbury and Sudbury.
From that time on, until 1835, this east portion of that divided settlement was called East Sudbury.
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INCORPORATED
EAST SUDBURY FOUNDED 1635
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835
Wayland's Town Seal
INCORPORATED
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EAST SUDBURY FOUNDED 1635
1835 / 0841
Wayland's Town Seal
29:"
THE SEAL OF WAYLAND
Although Wayland, then East Sudbury, separated from Sudbury in 1780, it was not until 1835 that Wayland was incorporated under the name of Wayland. In 1835, however, Wayland became a legally recognizedtown, and was given its seal.
Its seal bears a very interesting story. Through the mid- dle of the seal runs the Sudbury River which is representative of the early means of livelihood and also symbolical of the division between Sudbury and Wayland. On either side of the river stand two figures, two Indians on the west and two Puri- tans on the east. This, of course, represents the white man's coming in from the east to buy the land from the Indians. The Indian" standing nearer the east and who seems to have assumed command, is Karto, the splendid leader of the Indians in this district. It was from him that the settlers purchased their land. In the background rising against a silhouette of Nobs- cot are several Indian tepees showing the red man's mode of living.
Around the outer edge are given the date of Wayland's founding, 1635, of its separation from Sudbury, 1780, and its incorporation as a town in 1835.
I am proud of my seal for it shows plainly the honest and "square shooting" of those hardy men who were its first white settlers.
THE KING PHILIP WAR IN WAYLAND
In 1675 when news spread over the Massachusett's settle- ments that King Philip's Indians were on the warpath, the Way- land settlement began to erm itself. Previous to that date
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Wayland and Sudbury had taken definite steps towards defend- ing themselves in any emergency. Throughout the settlement, the people had built several garrisons which were made of wood and lined with brick. The largest of these were the Browne Garrison, and the Haynes Garrison, although Reverend Edward Browne, the first preacher, fortified his house to its fullest extent. Besides these garrisons there was one block- house quite near the Haynes Garrison which was fifteen feet square and strongly built.
The "Natick Praying Indians" under Netus, their chief, were very much against the war, but nevertheless King Philip soon made East Sudbury or Wayland his objective.
On the night of April 20, 1675, "the soft tread of the mocassins as the dusky squad stole silently about these fortified garrisons were too quiet for even the ears of such anxious listeners in the ominous stillness of that solitude." Soon, however, the stillness was broken.
The Indians attacked and took possession of all of Sud- bury and burned the houses to the ground. However, the peo- ple were all safely inside the garrison houses which were still uncaptured.
Soon the Indians turned their attention to capturing the garrisons with the Haynes Garrison receiving more attention. The Indians tried all their ways of destroying it but were unsuccessful. £ Inside men and women alike took up arms against the marauding red men.
At the minister's garrison in the southern part of the town, the people did not have such a hard time. Because it was spring, the ministers garrison was surrounded on three
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The Haynes Garnaon
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The Browne Garrison
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sides by the Sudbury River, and the Indians had a much more difficult task attacking it.
No lives were lost in these skirmishes and with the arri- val of reinforcements from Watertown and Concord, the people . ..
of Wayland and wore saved from as possible defeat.
THE OLD TOWN BRIDGE
When the settlers first came to Wayland, they found that bridges were very necessary because the Sudbury River was such a circuitous stream. As early as 1643, two bridges had been built in Wayland. In the section near Heard's or Pelham Pond, in the region now called Pelham Island, was a bridge which was originally no more than a log placed across the water by the Indians.
.The most historical bridge, however, is the one between Sudbury and Wayland, now called the Old Town Bridge. In 1643, at this point was built a small wooden bridge. Prior to this time, there had been a ferry operated by Thomas Noyes to help tra- vellers across the Sudbury.
In 1645 this bridge was built larger, and the ferry was discontinued. This bridge is said to be the first frame bridge in Middlesex County and the oldest four-arch bridge in the state .*
It was at this bridge that the King Philip forces were finally turned back with the help of a few staunch Concord men who bravely met their death and were buried on the east side in
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Wayland. On this spot where they are supposed to have been buried, a stone has been erected in memory of these brave men who turned the tide of the war, and drove King Philip back from Wayland and Sudbury.
".WAYLAND'S TAVERNS"
Wayland was, of course, on the main thoroughfare from Water- town, Waltham, Boston and Roxbury, to points in the Connecticut River Valley. The journey to these western parts was a long, tedious ordeal, and perhaps the bright spots on the way were the taverns. Wayland had quite a few important taverns, and the Parmenter Tavern was the first.
Although the Parmenter Tavern was the first, the most famous was Pequod House which was built in 1671. This tavern was a common halting place for troops in the French and Indian wars. Marketers on their way to the seaport towns made merry at its high bar.
The stage coaches changed horses here, and the coming of thecoach was an event to be looked forward to. "The sound of the post horn as it announced the near approach of the coach was the signal for hosteler and house maid to prepare refreshments for man and beast."
If these old inns were but able to talk, what tales they would tell! The tavern is to me one of the most romantic relics of our colonial day. Mr. Longfellow has best expressed it in these lines :
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"As ancient is this hostelry
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Built in the old Colonial days When men lived in a grandor way With ampler bospitality; A kind of old Hobgoblin Hall, Now, somewhat fallen to decay, With weather stains upon the walls, And stairways worn, and crazy doors,
And creaking and uneven floors, And chimneys high, tilted and tall. "
THE SHOE INDUSTRY IN WAYLAND
When the shoe industry first started in New England, many little shoe shops sprang up in the little villages. , These little shops have been called appropriately enough, "ten-foot shops".
In these little "ten-foot shops" men worked at their task of finishing the shoes which they had taken from the larger shops in adjoining towns. There were several of these in Wayland, one near what is now the Tilson Farm on Commonwealth Road and one back of the Legion Memorial Hall ( in Cochituate).
These men who worked in their little shops soon gave way, however, to the larger mills. Wayland did not escape the epide- mic of shoe manufacturing that spread over the New England states. Two, very large factories were built, and as a direct result. the south end of Wayland, or Cochituate, grew in population.
The two shoe shops in Wayland wore the W. and J. M. Bent Shoe Shop which occupied the whole square by the Blue Ribbon Garage. This shoe factory was the largest one in the state at the time. The brogans, men's heavy working shoes, which were manufactured at the Bent shop were sent by a six-borse team to the Potter, White, and Bailey Shoe Company in Boston.
The other larger shop, the Arthur Williams Shoe Company, was behind the Cochituate Grammar School. This shop turned out two thousand pairs of workingmen's shoes a day.
these shoe shops served their purpose in that they built up Cochituate, but after a fifteen year period of prosperity they moved and took with them the only real industry Wayland has ever known.
TODAY'S INDUSTRY*
When the first settler came to Wayland in 1636, their chief industry seemed to be providing themselves with the requisites of life, but as time went by, they soon began to supply Boston, Roxbury, and Watertown with farm products. They supplied corn, vegetables and dairy products to these larger towns. Even to- day this market gardening of Wayland is the chief industry, and anywhere in the stalls at Dock Square and Faneuil Hall Mar- ket one can find the produce of the Wayland farmers.
With the exception of the great shoe period of industry in Wayland in and about 1880, Wayland has been first, last and always an agricultural community.
TRANSPORTATION'S DEVELOPMENT
From the earliest, crudest form of travelling by foot, Wayland has gone far in the development of transportation. The history of transportation in Wayland is actually the universal evolution of world transportation for it has gone through all stages of growth.
The first settlers came either on horseback, or by foot. Then soon regular stage coach lines passed through Wayland from Boston to Worcester over the old State Road. An interesting
#NOTE: Remember that this account is the product of 1933, and does not take into consideration the arrival of such -- plants as Raytheon, and the like, which are far larger in their industry than the early shoe industry of Cochi- tuate. HET
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In.
fact to note is that according to the Old Blue Laws no coaches were allowed on the road on a Sunday.
FFrom 16501750 there was little change except for some improve- ment in the coaches themselves; but in 1750 the first horse -car line was run through Wayland. Its regular route was from Natick
through Cochituate to Wayland. For forty years the horsecar was the chief mode of travelling in Wayland, but in 1890 the first car line from Natick to Wayland and Saxonville was built. Until (1892) 1922, this electric car line was used, but in this year, the Boston and Middlesex Street Railway Company had the tracks removed and substituted motor buses for electric cars.
Stage coach, horse car, electric car, all played their part, but they were not the only modes of travel for in 1870 the Massachusetts Eastern Railway Company built a single track line through Wayland from Boston to Wayland and Worcester. The town, at that time, undertook the financing of the road, as most towns were required to do, and for almost three decades Wayland weltered in a debt so deep It seemed impossible to pay off bè- cause of the $35,000.00 bond issue they backed.
The last step in the development of transportation has been the building of the Natick-Wellesley airport for who knows to what use this shall be put when we all take to the air as the fastest way of arriveing at our destination ?*
** NOTE: This account makes no mention of the now infrequont B&W Bus lines between Boston and Worcester on Rte. 20, men the vanishing, or vanished, railroad which serves (servo: commuters to Boston twice a day, at most. The account does not make any mention either of the advent of the automobile, or its impact on public transportation. HET
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THE GROWTH OF THE SCHOOLS
After the settlers had provided for the physical and spiri- tual growth by providing food and churches, they turned their attention to the intellectual growth of their younger members. In the beginning of the eighteenth century, interest in educa- tion became widespread. In 1725, a free school was built, and a law was passed that every precinct should have a school. By
1735, there were two schoolmasters in each of the precincts. Then in 1751 the selectmen voted to have all the grammar school (? sense -- something omitted in original here) HET
The educational movement lost its supporters for a time due to war and general financial difficulties, and for almost a cen- tury the school system remained unchanged.
In the middle of the nineteenth century, the town began to consider the subject of secondary schooling. For several years intorost was great, so in 1854 the town provided for a high school which was built on Bow Road in Wayland, thon it later moved to Odd Fellows Hall at Wayland Center. Tho inconvenience of this arrangement soon became evident to the Wayland people and the present building was built in 1887. (The "present building" rc- fers to what was called the Old Conter School, grados 1-12, which is at present boing used as a Junior High School Annex, and Offices of the Superintendent of Schools. HET)
The nood of a better grammar school in Cochituate resulted in the present buildings being built in 1910.
Progress still goes on for even today one of the main items in the town warrant is a measure to provide for the building of a newer, finer structure in which to help our boys and girls to get more from life.
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PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS WHICH LED THE EARLY PEOPLE TO CHOOSE WAYLAND FOR A SETTLEMENT
- Rich, grassy, fertile meadows along the Sudbury River.
- Presence of fish for food in Sudbury River.
- Close proximity to Old Connecticut Path.
- Timber lands which afforded wood for shelter and fuel.
- Use of hills such as Reeves' Hill for Indian lookouts.
- Use of water power at Nill Pond by Thomas Cakebread for grind- ing corn into meal.
POINTS OF INTEREST, MONUMENTS, AND OLD NAMES, ETC.
- The Old Town Bridge (see chapter on King Philip's War)
- Monument near Old Town Bridge
- Old North Cemetery
- Sears House: Pelham Island Road, first house in Wayland.
- Mrs. Nellie Rice Fiske's home on Rice Road.
- Aunt Cynthia 's Crotch, near Legion Hall corner (in Cochituate)
- Widow John's Corner (Fiske Corner, today)
- Revolutionary marker on Mansion Inn corner (Mansion Inn no longer exists, but is the corner of Plain Street, on Rte. 126. HET )
HOW COCHITUATE IS RELATED TO THE TOWNS SHOWN ON THE ACCOMPANYING MAP
1. Wayland : Cochituate really is a part of Wayland and comes under its jurisdiction. We use Wayland's library (Now, there is a branch library in Cochituate. HET)
2. Natick: Serves as a shopping center. Supplies labor in its
box factory, shoe factory, baseball and steel fac- tory. Offers recreational advantages because of its theatre, dancing school, clubs, etc. (NOTE: Wayland now has an expanded shopping center, as does Cochituate. Also, the theatre in Natick, for all practical purposes, no longer exists, as such, since the advent of TV, and the subsequent economic difficulties of the motion picture industry. HET)
3. Wellesley: Offers educational advantages to students enter- ing Wellesley College.
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4. Framingham; Offers work in Dennison factory, mills, stores. etc. Serves as a shopping center. Offers edu- cational advantages in its schools and colleges. Offers educational and recreational advantages in its theatres, civic league, clubs, etc.
5. £
Boston: Supplies employment in stores, offices, factories, etc. Offers educational advantages in its schools of higher learning. Offers many recreational ... advantages
6. Waltham: Gives employment. Gives recreational and educa- tional opportunities.
7. Worcester: Offers educational and recreational advantages. Gives much employment.
ADDITIONAL NOTATIONS; all in the handwriting of Mrs. Mabel Draper, curator, Historical Society
1. p. 98, ANNALS OF SUDBURY, WAYLAND, AND MAYNARD, by Alfred S. Hudson.
"In 1854 a high school building was erected at the centre, on the road to Cochituate, a little southerly of the Ortho- dox Congregational Church."
NOTE: an old photograph of this building, at the Heard House (tayland's Historial Society Headquarters, open Tues. and Thurs. afternoons, 2-4), shows it as located on the site of the present school annex. It was moved to its present loca- tion shortly before the so-called "Center School" was built in 1897.
The only school on Bow Road was known as the "Street School". It was moved to its present location .in 1843 from a place on Old Sudbury Road just above Mr. Burbank's house. The old school house is now the home of the Jonal (or Jonah? ) family. It was a district school.
2. Edmund, not Edward Brown. Pequod House built in 1771 by Elijah Bent.
3. FIVE PATHS: to Cochituate; to Framingham; to Weston; to Wayland. Hearsay : the 5th path is a little road leading to the Parris House, the oldest house in town - 1669.
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Le minstan
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Wayland ---- watertown
V. .. Cambridge
Riverside .
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Dosta
Wellesley ----
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-> Roxbury
Nantucket
North - Weymouth
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Worcester
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974.44 Walsh. W Wayland; an c. 2 historical geography
974.44 Walsh. Wayland; an
c.2 historical geog.
BPL ILL HYDE PARK BR
MAR 3076
VARO -1581 DEC9 80
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