USA > Massachusetts > Middlesex County > Acton > Acton in history > Part 11
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GEOLOGICSKETCH OF ACTON.1 -- Acton, unlike some of the neighboring towns, owes the principal part of its natural scenery to the irregular surface of the rock strata which form its foundation. The contour, through the action of the various atmospheric agen- cies, had nearly reached its present form before the glacial period, and it was but slightly modified by the action of the ice during that period. Rising to its greatest elevation near the centre of the towu, the slope to the northward received the greatest force pro- duced by the motion of the ice toward the south, which resulted in grinding down and polishing the surface of the rock and in making the slope to the north more gentle, while the slope to the south was left steep and often ragged.
The rock is a micaceous gneiss, often merging into mica schist firmly stratified, with a strike north 60° east, and a very steep dip to the northwest. This rock is a member of that crystalline series which forms the oldest portions of the earth's crust. Above this solid rock is the loose material known generally as earth-that is, the accumulation of gravel, sand, clay, loam, etc., which was brought to its present position and deposited by the agency of the ice sheet. Portions of this material were accumulated under the ice in a comparative thin layer over nearly the entire surface of the country. In certain places, however, it was built up, by a process not yet understood, into lenticular masses, with their longer axes parallel to the motion of the ice or nearly north-south. This gave rise to a prominent feature in our topography, the class of hills known as drumlins, and of which the
1 By George Barton, a native of Acton, and geologic teacher in the School of Technology, Boston.
hill just west of West Acton Village, the two south of South Acton, and Strawberry Hill, toward the north- east part of the town, are typical examples. On the surface of the ice and throughout its mass was a large amount of earth and rock, which was scattered over the surface of the country as the ice disappeared. This being in loose form, and easily acted upon by the floods produced by the melting of the glacier, was . washed over and separated into distinct areas of sand, gravel and clay. These washed-over portions natur- ally accumulated in the lower levels, giving rise to the sand and gravel plains which extend along the courses of Nashoba and Fort Pond Brooks, and to the southeast merge into the larger areas bordering the Assabet River. Another and very peculiar feature of the washed-over material is the kame. This was formed by the small boulders and pebbles accumulat- ing in the channels of rivers running upon the ice, and which, upon the disappearance of the ice sheet, were deposited upon the surface of the country, form- ing long, narrow, winding ridges of coarse gravel. A very fine example of this occurs in Acton, extending from the extreme southeast corner of the town, near the powder-mills, with occasional gaps by the ceme- tery near the Centre, and thence nearly parallel to and just west of Nashoba Brook, nearly to Carlisle line.
The streams which flow through the town still fol- low generally the valleys formed by them before the advance of the ice sheet, but in a few cases their courses have been slightly changed by the accumula- tions deposited by the glacier. The larger ponds oc- cupy pre-glacial valleys ; but the smaller ponds, like Grassy Pond in the north and Sinking Pond in the southeast, simply occupy small depressions in the surrounding sand plains.
THE ARTIST'S VIEW OF ACTON.2-The surface of Acton, like that of most Middlesex towns, is suffi- ciently broken and varied in its character to possess a fair share of picturesque localities. With the neighboring towns of Westford and Littleton, it forms an elevated range of hill country similar to that formed by Harvard and Bolton, only of lesser height. Within its boundaries and those of its neighbor towns are found some of the largest ponds of Middle- sex. Although unlike Concord or Sunbury, which are flat and meadowy, and which have the benefit of a river to supply their most beautiful points, this town may be said to possess a landscape not inferior to them.
From a picturesque point of view, the near vicinity of running water is most favorable for producing in- teresting places. The variety of tree forms found in . such localities, with the different crops on the culti- vated lands adjoining, are enhanced by the winding course of the stream. Though without a river, this town has two mill streams which in a great degree re- place one. Two sections of the town are crossed by
2 By Arthur F. Davis, resident of the town.
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large brooks. Both West and South Acton are tra- versed by Fort Pond Brook, and the frequent dams erected for mill purposes create a succession of charming ponds.
The finest stretch of this stream is perhaps that from South Acton Village to the road leading to Concord Junction at Hanson's. There it bends and twists its way through a fine succession of rocky and woody hollows, with here and there an interruption in the shape of a mill. In this section we are sure it is equal to any similar water-course in Middlesex in beauty. Throughi West Acton it creates by its way- ward course many interesting places, but is not so picturesque as the locality just mentioned.
As one comes along the highway leading from East Acton to the Centre, he crosses a stream con- verted by a mill-dam just below into a long, shallow pond, which extends northward some distance. This is Nashoba Brook, and, although smaller than the other, is the most picturesque stream within the town.
Nashoba, from its source in Westford, comes down a long, winding valley into the meadows of East Acton. Where it enters Acton it is a quiet stream, flowing unnoticed through stretches of low land until it reaches the first mill, some two miles from its head-waters. At this place, where is a saw-mill, are found some rare bits, considered from a painter's point of view.
Three tributary brooks enter Nashoba within the territory of Acton. The first enters near the Carlisle boundary; the largest, Nagog Brook, the outlet to Nagog Pond (this name is not Magog, but Nagog. The old Indian name is a good one) joins it a mile or so below the first mill-dam. Just below this is a smaller rivulet, which drains the meadows north and west of the Centre. The territory which lies between the first and third mills embrace the finest and most picturesque spots on the stream.
The old Jonathan Wheeler place, which is in this neighborhood, is particularly notable as being one of the most beautiful localities in the town. Just be- low the third mill the brook is crossed by a bridge a few rods south of the old Revolutionary bridge (now gone), over which the minute-men marched to Con- cord via the Strawberry Hill road and the fields. Still farther down the stream is the long pond first mentioned, with its wide reach of intervale on either side and picturesque surroundings of the old mill and dam which creates it.
Both our Acton brooks are tributary to the Assabet River, and unite their waters with it just over the Concord line. Although, like other streams, ours are perhaps the most attractive in the spring and fall, yet no season will be found unattractive about them. Each has its peculiar charm, which, if noticed, can never fail to give pleasure to the observer. Each nook and corner in their vicinity will amply repay the effort made to visit them, and a spare hour spent about them is looked back upon with interest.
The pond region belonging to Acton is not exten- sive. There are only two small ponds-Grassy and Sinking Ponds-which are entirely within the town liniits. Grass Pond is unique in having a singular sedgy growth about its margin, and is a pretty little sheet of water, famed for its lilics with pink-tinted leaves, which grow in great profusion.
Sinking Pond is a minute reproduction of Walden, as it used to be before the building of the railroad and the advent of the modern pic-nic ground. The water of this pond, which has no visible outlet or in- let, is very clear and pure. Scarcely any vegetable matter appears about its borders, and it is surrounded by a high ridge of scrubby sand-hills.
Nagog, of which Acton possesses the larger part, is the first lake in this section in point of size, its length being about two miles and its width one mile. Its waters are quite clear and deep, and are broken only by one small island near the southern end.
There are many fine groups of trees about this southern end, which is wild and woody. Here are the greatest number of choice spots in early spring days, when the young leaves of the birches first green the wood, and the brilliant oriole hangs her nest on delicate pensile limbs over the water.
The shore on this side is fringed by quantities of blueberry bushes and is rocky, without a beach. Back from these the hills rise up in broad bush-grown swells to the highest point of Acton-Nagog Hill, as it is called.
The most vital and peculiar feature of our Acton landscape is found in its apple orchards. These are the most interesting part of the natural scenery here. Other towns, doubtless, share with Acton in this re- spect, but in none of them, in Middlesex at least, does the apple-tree reach such a picturesque state. The farmers do not think, many of them, that the chance and irregular groups of wild apples springing up beside the road, side wall, or in corners in the pastures, are worth consideration. However, there is no more beautiful combination of color in the land- scape than that offered by these trees in the time of their bloom.
Wild apples are proverbially famous for the deli- cacy and fragrance of their bloom, which is also of richer color than that of the cultivated varieties. Cultivated orchards, of course, are in greater number than these wild trees, and are rightly paramount in commercial importance. Although planted as they are in checker-board forin for economy of space and ease of cultivation, nature early asserts her magnifi- cent arrangement and leans the trees in different di- rections. There is nothing commonplace about the apple-tree wherever found. Its limbs are crooked and full of surprising twists, and its spray, though coarse, is full of characteristic kinks. With the pos- sible exception of a few varieties, it never forms a regular cylindrical head, but with its growing years increases in the beauty of its irregular outline. The
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orchards are, in short, most typical of our rocky, hilly country, and are its crowning beauty.
The magnificent blooming tree is a perpetual re- proach to those who only consider it after its fruit is packed away in a cellar or in barrels ready for mar- ket. The aboundant growth of wood and orchard af- ford the birds sufficient protection and food to enable them to multiply without molestation in Acton. Consequently, our ornithological list embraces most of the species found in inland New England, with the exception of the sea birds, a few of which visit our ponds and brooks in the early spring or fall. The large family of wood warblers in particular thrive here; the catalogue often comprises upward of twelve species and, doubtless, a more practical observer might extend the list.
In the flora, too, Acton offers particularly rich op- portunities. The varied character of the country af- fords protection to a surprisingly wide variety of plant growth. Among the trees we have nearly all found in Massachusetts. One, however, the true pa- per or canoe birch, is well-nigh extinct here, only a few scattered specimens remaining in town.
GAME IN ACTON .- The hills, woods, brooks and ponds of Acton have been noted from earliest dates for the frequent visits of the disciples of the gun and rod. The Indians for generations had the first chance on these grounds. We need not go to the books to be sure that they were in goodly numbers and in trim for luck among the fins, the furs and the feathers.
The apostle John, when he went on his missionary tours among the Indians, had to come to these parts, for he was sure to find an audience along the Nashoba waters and the " big brook." These Indians could sing. Eliot had good success in that line. Wilson relates that at their meeting "the Indians sung a Psalm, made Indian by Eliot in one of our ordi- nary English tunes melodiously." In 1689 there were twenty-four Indian preachers. In 1676 there were 567 praying Indians at Nashoba plantation.
James Spear, with his Indian choir, sung Psalms at one of Eliot's meetings May 14, 1654. There has always been something in the atmosphere or in the ground or in the spot in this vicinity congenial to music. We have heard fish and game stories among the veterans of our own day, and have heard them sing and whistle and blow their horns on their home- ward beat ; but those red men of the past, if they could speak, would easily silence these modern tongues.
The earliest records show that the brooks were once stocked with some varieties not now common.
Captain Daniel Tuttle's mother, Harriet Wether- bee, sister to Edward Wetherbee, Senior, used to go down to the brook, below the dam, and throw out shad and alcwives in her day. They had at one time, on the Assabet, at Southeast Acton, a fish warden and fish weirs.
As early as 15th of February, 1739, there was an
article in the town warrant "to know whether the town will insist on Mr. Faulkner's opening his dam 30 days in a year, as ye law dirccts, where alewives and other fish pass in great plenty."
There used to be a deer's man appointed by the town to look after the deer and decide upon questions relating to the matter, which shows the deer were here. There have always been self-appointed private wardens to look after the dears, but these were bona- fide deer.
Men who hunt and fish for sport are noted for their quiet, modest ways, and it is difficult to get any state- ment from them on their luck, but by hard pressing, a few items have been secured, which may be of in- terest to the public. Worse records even than these could be had, if the right men could be interviewed by the right man. They did not intend to have their names mentioned, and so are not responsible for the publishing of the inglorious tale of their life record :
Elnathan Jones: pickerel, 3000; perch, 3000; trout, 200 ; bass, 100 ; largest pickerel, 61/2 lbs. ; largest bass, 5 lbs. At one lucky trip the average weight of the perch, 11/2 lbs., several weighing 2 lbs. ; foxes, 30 ; gray squirrels, 200.
Hiram Hapgood in ten years: bass, 20; pickerel, 200; perch, 400 ; pouts, 100 ; crows, 1.
J.K. W. Wetherbee: bass, 10; pickerel, 1000; perch, 2000 ; pouts, 2500 ; gray squirrels, 500 ; raccoon, 1 ; hawk, five feet across I'rom tip to tip.
Swift Fletcher : pickerel, 3000 ; the largest number at auy one time, 167; pouts, 2500; bsss, 100 (three welghing over 4 lbs., not one over 5 lbs.) ; foxes, 100; raccoons, 7; ducks, 30; gray squirrels, 600; sold 105 skins one year for a robe for Captain Whitcomb ; partridges, 2000 ; rabbits, 1000 ; pigeons, 400; Otter, 1.
Fifty years ago pigeons were abundant in the woods, and during some seasons made it lively for the hunts- men, who would have great sport in shooting them upon the wing as they flew in flocks over certain lo- calities.
The pigeon-stands were quite common, where, by nets and proper baiting, they could be caught in large numbers.
The stocking of Nagog Pond a few years since by the town with bass has introduced a new variety in the fishing sport.
On the 1st of July, when the permit is issued for trying the luck on these delightful waters, there is a decided fish smell in this vicinity. The most sober inen in town-deacons, ministers, lawyers, justices of the peace, senators and representatives-doctors-the moderator himself-may be seen rigging their poles and reeling to and fro-with their lines, if per- chance, they may strike the spot where they are sure of a prize.
Just watch the justice a moment. He is leaning over the boat. He hcars the click of the reel as his line spins out through the ruffled waters. What are all his cases in court now ? There is only one case on the docket just now, and that must have all the nerve and muscle. You may laugh at him and call him a fool, and off his base; but the question fairly holding the court is, bass or no bass.
CAPT. DANIEL TUTTLE.
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ACTON.
THE 19th OF APRIL, 1861 .- Again the historic day returns, rich with its patriotic memories. We hail its presence as we would that of an old and endeared friend come back to the family hearthstone. It rc- calls events which should never be forgotten while the government remains or its annals stand upon the imperishable record.
In the War of the Revolution, without the 19th of April, there might never have been the 17th of June, and without the 17th of June there might never have been the 4th of July, and without the 4th of July the stars and stripes would never have floated o'er land and sea to the joy of many generations. To the citi- zens of Acton and vicinity this day has been for over a huudred years, of all other days in the year, the most marked. Its yearly advent has been celebrated with new and old rehearsals of what occurred at the North Bridge at Concord, with the ringing of bells, the firing of salutes, the parade of military, orations, bonfires and general glorification. The old patriots who were at the bridge in 1775, when Captain Davis fell at the head of his command, have told it to their children and their children's children. The monu- ment which stands upon the village green is but an embodiment, in solid native granite, of the sentiment which has thus been alive among these hills and val- leys for over a huudred years.
When the telegram came to Captain Daniel Tuttle, on the evening of April 15th, to have his company report the next moruing at Lowell, armed and equip- ped for war service, it found a response prompt and earnest from every man.
Though scattered in different towns, and not ex- pecting the summons, the bells were rung in the night, messengers sent in all directions post-haste, equipments forwarded, carriages procured, overcoats provided-for it was a cold, cheerless April night- and at 7.30 o'clock on the morning of April 16th, Captain Tuttle was able to report to Col. Jones, of the Sixth Regiment, his whole command ready for duty.
Farms, shops, stores, homes, families, friends, plans, had been left behind in an instant, and they were on their way to destiuies which none could foretell. They had played the soldier on the parade-ground in peaceful days, in holiday attire. It now meant busi- ness. The country was in a death-struggle all at once. Its very capitol was in danger of capture or destruc- tion by rebel hands.
Captain Daniel Tuttle was born February 14, 1814, on the heights which overlook the village and town, one of the oldest of a large family of children. His father, Francis Tuttle, Esq., was for a long time au officer and influential citizen of the place. The cap- tain was elected to command the Davis Guards in the years 1855, 1857, 1859, 1861. He was twice postmas- ter. He was forty-seven years old at the outbreak of the war, and exempt by age from military duty. He was a Breckenridge Democrat in the preceding can- vass for the Presidency against Lincoln. He had at
the time a large farm on his hands, a wife and numer- ous children-some of them young.
At the opening of a new season, and with all his cares so pressing, it seemed impossible for him to leave; yet when the summons came there was but one decision. When seated in his wagon, just as he was about to leave, he said to family, neighbors and townsmen, as a parting word, "God take care of you all."
In those dark, ominous moments of suspense, the appearance of the old Sixth Regiment in Boston, in tlic early morning after the evening's summons, and its steady march down Washington Street, with knap- sacks, overcoats, flashing bayonets and beating drums, on their way to the seat of war, and the cheering and almost frenzied crowds which accompanied every step, was a scene which it is worth a life to witness. No one not present can know the enthusiasm of that occasion.
Their march down Broadway, New York, was a repetition of the same scene, only on a grander scale, and in a city whose citizcus were not supposed to be so largely in sympathy with the soldier. The appear- ance of the old Sixth Massachusetts in their streets, made up of all parties, and with each man's life of- fered for sacrifice, united the divided city, and they became as one man in saying "The Union shall be preserved." The passage through Philadelphia was in the night, or there would have been another repe- tition of the same boundless cheer and God speed the right, from the surging crowds of that ever loyal city.
Baltimore was reached on the 19th of April. It was the North Bridge of division between the contending sections of the land. The city overflowed with bitterness, and cursing against the Union, and the men who came to defend her.
"On this morning," says the historian, " the streets were filled with a scowling, angry mob, as the cars, eleven in all, containing the Sixth Massachusetts Regiment, rolled into town. The cars were drawn by horses across the city from one railroad to another. As they penetrated farther into the city the crowd be- came more dense, and the faces grew blacker with hate. Stones, brickbats and all kinds of missiles were thrown through the windows of the cars. At first the soldiers bore it patiently and without resist- ance, until all but two of the cars reached the station. These two, separated from the others, were surrounded by a yelling crowd, that opposed their passage. The officers consulted and concluded to disembark the men and march them in solid column to the station. The brave fellows went on through a shower of stones, bricks and scattering shots.
" At last, just before they reached the station, the colonel gave orders to fire. The soldiers discharged their guns among the crowd and several of the mob fell dead or wounded. The troops reached the station and took the cars. The scene that ensued was terrific. Taunts, clothed in the most offensive language, were
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hurled at the troops by the panting crowd, who, breath- less with running, pressed to the windows, presenting knives and revolvers and cursing up into the faces of the soldiers. Amid such a scene the Massachusetts regiment passed out of the city, having had four of their number killed and thirty-six wounded.
"On this very day, the 19th of April, eighty-six years before, the first blood shed in the war of the Revolution had stained the grass in front of Lexing- ton meeting-house, and on the Concord plains.
"On the second anniversary, long to be remembered, the first blood in the Civil War flowed in the streets of Baltimore, shed from the veins of the descendants of these early patriots."
THE DAVIS GUARDS received at home, on their return, Aug. 10, 1861. The Davis Guards arrived at South Acton at about 8.30 o'clock, Saturday morning. A large crowd had collected to welcome them home. After cordial greetings a procession was formed and proceeded to the Centre in the following order : Col. W. E. Faulkner, chief marshal, assisted by Henry Wilder, James Wetherbee and John H. Sanborn ; National Band of Worcester ; Union Guards, Capt. A. C. Handley, 50 men ; Liberty Guards, Capt. S. Willis, 40 men ; Drum corps ; Hayward Guards, Capt. Daniel Jones, 62 men ; Lowell Brigade Band (this band barely escaped with their lives at Baltimore); Davis Guards, Capt. David Tuttle, 52 men; Concord Artil- lery, Capt. Prescott, 54 men; Detachment of Concord Artillery, with field-pieces, Capt. M. Hobson, 12 men ; Chief Engineers of Concord Fire Department ; Hook- and-Ladder Co., Charles Stowell, foreman, 10 men ; Independent Engine Co., Jonas Melvin, foreman, 60 men.
A little out of the village a procession had been formed, under the direction of Samuel Hosmer, Esq., of the citizens of Acton and the adjoining towns, awaiting the arrival from South Acton.
Upon the arrival of the military they formed in the rear, and were thus escorted into town. Upon the arrival of the procession in town it gathered around the speaker's stand, when prayer was offered by the chaplaiu, Rev. Alpha Morton, after which Dr. John M. Miles, in behalf of the town, welcomed them in an eloquent address. This was responded to in be- half of Capt. Tuttle, by Dr. Harris Cowdrey.
Col. Faulkner made a brief address to the audience. About 12.30 o'clock the companies formed into line, and marching to the monument, three cheers were called for and heartily given for the American flag, and at the same time a new, beautiful banner was run up to the top of the monument by Willie Boss, from which point, as if by magic, it sprang into the air, the band playing the " Star Spangled Banner." Hon. Charles Hudson, of Lexington, then delivered a very able address.
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