USA > Massachusetts > From the Hub to the Hudson : with sketches of nature, history and industry in north-western Massachusetts > Part 9
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FROM THE HUB TO THE HUDSON.
peaks. Now you see the reason why the wind blows so furiously here in winter. The north-west gales coming up the Hoosac Valley are stopped in their course by the northern spur of the hill over which we have passed; and instead of following the river to South Adams they take this shorter course through the Notch. At its southern end the Notch grows nar- row and if you stand at the very extremity of it, where it opens into the south Adams Valley on some windy day in March, you would be able to understand why it has been called the Bellows Pipe. It may occur to some travelers that no name has been given to the ridge over which we have just climbed,-which runs parallel with the Greylock ridge and extends from the marble quarries at North Adams nearly to the village of South Adams. Until now it has been nameless, as it certainly does not deserve to be. A mountain that affords so grand a prospect, and the highest peak of which rises not less than two thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea-nearly three times as high as the famous Mount Holyoke might claim at least the barren honor of a name. By what name shall it be called ? That gallant soldier whose heroism is recorded in this chapter,-who held what Mr. Everett called the Thermopylæ of New England, so bravely for so many hours, against such fearful odds, is without honor in the country he defended by his valor. The soldier deserves a monument ; the moun- tain deserves a name ; why may we not fittingly write the soldier's name upon the mountain, and let MOUNT
I37
THE VALLEY FROM THE BLUFF.
HAWKS perpetuate the memory of a man whom Massa- chusetts cannot afford to forget.
When we emerge from the Notch, we follow the road around the base of Mount Williams to a point on the western slope of the hill, where we turn sharply to the right and descend. If, however, we are not too weary, we shall find it to our account to drive west- ward for a mile or more along the road that follows the top of the bluff. Near the foot of Prospect, we may halt upon the top of a declivity where the best view is obtained of the Taghkanic range. The bold outline of these beautiful hills, the deep ravines that furrow their sides, and the transverse ridges that are built like buttresses against their solid wall, are grandly shown at this point. From any point of this bluff, as well as from the road by which we descend when we return, the view of the Hoosac Valley, overlooked by the beautiful Williamstown upon its classic heights, holding in its lap the busy Blackinton and Greylock, and parted by the winding river that turns with . equal facility the wheels of the mills and the sentences of the sophomores, is a view not to be missed by any so- journer among the hills of Berkshire.
MOUNT HOPKINS
is the highest peak of the Taghkanic chain. As you pass over the hill at the Cemetery, going toward Wil- liamstown, it lies directly before you. One of the in- dentations in the horizon is cleared of timber for some distance; on the right of this clearing are two bold
I38
FROM THE HUB TO THE HUDSON.
peaks that are nameless ; on the left is Mount Hopkins. Its twin summits, with but little distance or depression between them, bear the name of the honored President of Williams College and his no less honored brother, Professor Albert Hopkins, who for many years has occupied the chair of Natural Philosophy and Astron- omy in Williams College; whose enterprise built the Astronomical and the Magnetic Observatories ; whose taste adorned the College grounds ; whose name is the synonym of the truest Christian integrity, and whose love of nature has qualified him to be her chief inter- preter in all this region. No man knows the beauty of Berkshire so well, no man loves it with so pure an enthusiasm as Professor Hopkins. The tribute of re- spect which is paid to him in bestowing his name. upon . this mountain is but a slight recognition of what he has done to lead his neighbors and his pupils into the knowledge and the love of the true, the good and the beautiful.
The road to Mount Hopkins leads through Williams- town ; turns to the left, just beyond the site of the old church ; a mile further on, descends to the left, at an- other parting of the ways, into a deep ravine; at the end of another mile, turns to the right through a beauti- ful wood ; after emerging from which, it passes an old school-house, and keeps to the left up a hill, the top of which is reached by difficult climbing, when we find ourselves in the clearing upon which we looked from the Cemetery hill. At this point, the eastern view of Greylock, the Hopper on its western side, the Adams
139
FROM THE TOP OF MT. HOPKINS.
Valley, the Hoosac Mountains beyond, and the western view of the deep valleys and the billowy hills stretch- ing away for thirty miles toward the valley of the Hud- son, are to a lowlander somewhat notable. Turning to the left, into the pasture, we follow a wagon track up a steep acclivity, and pass through a wood into a clearing. An old cellar marks the site of a farm-house which once stood here. What could have induced any human being to build for himself a habitation upon this mountain top it is difficult to guess. We pass through another wood, and emerge at length into a clearing upon the summit of Mount Hopkins, from which the view is perfect in every direction. On the north are the Green Mountains of Vermont; on the east Greylock, whose grandeur you never have known till you have looked upon him from this summit; on the south the Taghkanic range and the valleys that divide it, and on the west the magnificent reach of cul- tivated hills. The boats on the Hudson can be seen with a glass on a clear day. The view on the south is perhaps the longest remembered. Here as hardly anywhere else in this region one gets an impression of the stupendous forces that have reared these moun- tain ridges.
This summit is two thousand eight hundred feet above tide-water, and it is reached in a carriage, with- out great difficulty, by a two hours' ride from North Adams. The tourist should be provided with a com- pass, a field-glass, a lunch and warm wrappings; he should get an early start that he may enjoy the western
!
.
140
FROM THE HUB TO THE HUDSON.
view with the sun at his back, and he should drive homeward at the close of the afternoon.
Of the other excursions that may be made from North Adams the mention must be brief. Among those more distant we may mention the drive to Mount Anthony near Bennington, where from an observatory one hundred and fifty feet high an extended and di- versified view is obtained of the whole of this moun- tainous region.
The excursion to Pittsfield, through Williamstown and Lanesboro, passing Pontoosuc Lake, is easy and delightful. To make it perfect, cross the Taghkanic range from Pittsfield to New Lebanon, visit the SHAK- ERS, spend the night at the Springs, and return the next day through Hancock and South Williamstown.
Snow Glen is a deep fissure on the western side of the Taghkanics, beyond Williamstown, where snow may be found in midsummer. The western prospect is similar to that from Mount Hopkins, but less beauti- ful. The carriage road passes within two miles of the glen, and the rest of the journey must be made on foot.
Among the drives in the immediate vicinity of North Adams, one of the most beautiful follows the north branch of the Hoosac to Stamford; returning leaves the valley road at a crossing near a school-house, and follows the base of the Hoosac Mountain, passing one road that turns to the right, and after that keeping to the right till it reaches the " Five Points" a mile east of the village of North Adams.
The view from the farm-house of Mr. Joseph Wheeler,
141
EXCELSIOR !
whose red buildings are seen from the village on the side of Mount Adams is a delightful one. In short it may be said of the drives as of the walks, that there is no road leading out of North Adams from which you may not gain, without traveling far, prospects which, to use the Frenchman's climax, are either mag- nificent, sublime, or pretty good.
TO THE TOP OF GREYLOCK.
We have been under the shadow of Greylock long enough to have some desire to climb to his summit. To have had this view first would have dulled our en- joyment of the scenes upon which we have been look- ing. Moreover, this tramp to the top of Greylock requires some physical stamina, and it is fair to sup- pose that those who have spent a week in the bracing air of these Berkshire Hills are in better condition for such an undertaking than they were when they came. There was good reason, therefore, for keeping the good wine till the end of the feast.
At the time of the writing of these pages it is diffi- cult to give full information as to the best way of as- cending Greylock. Three different roads have been followed, all of which have their advantages. One climbs Bald Mountain, south of the Hopper ; another ascends the southern side of the mountain from South Adams ; the third leaves the Notch Road at the house of Mr. Walden, winds round the northern end of Mount Williams, passes through a clearing known as Wilbur's Pasture between Williams and Prospect; then climbs
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142
FROM THE HUB TO THE HUDSON.
the ridge on its western side, and follows it southward to the clearing on the top of Greylock. At present these roads are all bad ; a long tramp must be taken after carriages and horses are left behind ; but move- ments are now on foot to improve one or more of them, so that it may be possible to reach the top on horse- back if not in carriages. The view from the summit is not so good as it would be if a tower were erected there. The top of the mountain is cleared, but the forest that surrounds the clearing, while it does not greatly interfere with the distant view, shuts out from our vision the valleys in the immediate neighborhood, and without a sight of these the prospect is incom- plete. A structure of some sort, forty or fifty feet in height, would give us both the near and the dis- tant landscape. Several years ago such a tower was erected, but through accident or mischievous design it was destroyed by fire. It is hoped that another may be erected early in the present season.
Of the roads to the top of Greylock, the one which ascends from South Adams is said to be the easiest ; but for grandeur of scenery either of the others is to be preferred. No tourist should fail to visit the Hop- per whether he ascends the mountain by that route or not. Following up Money Brook from the South Wil- liamstown road you find yourselves at the entrance of this stupendous amphitheatre of hills. The gorge by which the brook flows out, between Prospect on the north and Bald Mountain on the south is very nar- row; and these two mountains, together with Greylock
143
MONEY BROOK AND THE HOPPER.
which rises directly before us as we enter, constitute the three sides of this wonderful gulf. Ascending this brook for a mile and a half you may find upon its southern branch the most remarkable waterfall in this region. The water comes down from a great height in successive leaps; the rocks over which it tumbles rise one above another in semicircular tiers like the seats in a theater; and their sides are always green with the most beautiful hanging moss. This is a cas- cade which has been visited by very few persons, and the writer of this book is not one of them. You have this account, therefore, at second hand, but it is none the less reliable on that account.
It will not do, however, to attempt the exploration of Money Brook and its cascade on the same day in which we climb Greylock. That must be a separ- ate excursion. It is enough before you climb Bald Mountain if you ascend the stream for a little way, that you may gain some adequate impression of the loftiness and steepness of the close mountain walls that form the sides of this enormous gulf.
Ascending now to the top of Bald Mountain, follow its naked summit nearly to its most northerly point, and there the gulf opens before you,-a yawning abyss from which people with nerves are apt to shrink. The chasm is more than a thousand feet in depth, and from the point where you are standing the four sides seem to converge to a point at the bottom. With the ex- ception of a few land-slides this gulf is wooded on all sides from base to summit. The wonder is that these
144
FROM THE HUB TO THE HUDSON.
slides are not more frequent, and that the mountains are not denuded of their forests, so precipitous are their sides. Occasional patches of black spruce re- lieve the lighter foliage of the slopes. Probably this world does not contain a more gorgeous show of au- tumnal coloring than is visible here in early October.
Passing on from. Bald Mountain north-westerly we reach at length the summit of Greylock, and stand upon the highest land in Massachusetts. An enthusi- astic person can hardly be trusted to tell what is visi- ble from this summit. "I know of no place," says President Hitchcock, "where the mind is so forcibly impressed by the idea of vastness and even of immen- sity, as when the eye ranges abroad from this emi- nence ! " Immensity ! no smaller word will fit the scene.
The physical geography of the surrounding region is such as to give to this view all the elements of sublim- ity. A single mountain peak or range, in the midst of a comparatively level country, may afford a prospect of extent, variety and beauty ; but it cannot show us the glories that Greylock reveals from his summit. Here is a belt of mountains extending from the Connecticut River nearly to the Hudson-a distance of fifty or sixty miles-and from the sources of the Connecticut River to Long Island Sound. . "To regard these high- lands," says Dr. Palfrey, " as simply ranges of hills would not be to conceive of them aright. They are vast swells of land of an average elevation of a thou- sand feet above the level of the sea, . . . from which,
145
THE CROWNING GLORY.
as from a base, mountains rise in chains or in isolated groups to an altitude of several thousand feet more." The two mountain ranges which pass through these highlands-the Hoosac and the Taghkanic chains- have, according to the same authority, "a regular in- crease from south to north. From a height of less than a thousand feet in Connecticut, they rise to an average of twenty-five hundred feet in Massachusetts, where the majestic Greylock, isolated between the two chains, lifts its head to the stature of thirty-five hun- dred feet." It will be seen, therefore, that Greylock commands a view of exceptional grandeur. Down at his feet lies the valley of the Hoosac, nearly three thousand feet below ; Pittsfield, with its beautiful lakes, and many smaller villages, are seen in the valleys and on the adjacent slopes ; south-westward the eye sweeps over the top of the Taghkanics, away to the Catskills beyond the Hudson; north-westward the peaks of the Adirondacks, in Northern New York, are plainly visible ; in the north the sturdy ridges of the Green Mountains file away in grand outline; on the east Monadnock and Wachusett renew their stately greeting, and Tom and Holyoke look up from their beautiful valley ; south- ward Mount Everett stands sentinel at the portal of Berkshire, through which the Housatonic flows; and all this grand circuit is filled with mountains. Range beyond range, peak above peak, they stretch away on every side, a boundless expanse of mountain summits. Standing here, and taking in with your eye all that is contained within the vague boundaries of the horizon,
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146
FROM THE HUB TO THE HUDSON.
you receive one of the grandest if not the very first impression you ever had of distance, of immensity, and of illimitable force. It is well if one can see the sun- set and the sunrise from this eminence. With a bed of hemlock boughs for a couch and an army blanket for a covering, any robust person of either sex will sleep soundly after the fatigue of the ascent, and a cloudless evening and morning will make amends for any amount of discomfort.
It will be better to return by a different route from that by which we ascended. The road which follows the ridge northward, then descends to the west into Wilbur's Pasture, and winds round Mount Williams to the east, will give us the best outlook. The view from Prospect, the top of which is easily reached from Wil- bur's Pasture, is one that we must not miss. Let us hear President Hitchcock :
"On turning northerly, and proceeding to the ex- tremity of the open ground, we come to the steep margin of the mountain, and in a moment the beauti- ful valley and village of Williamstown burst like a bright vision upon the eye. I have rarely if ever experienced such a pleasing change from the emotion of beauty to that of sublimity as at this spot. The moment one fixes his eye upon the valley of Williamstown, he cannot but exclaim, 'How beautiful!' But ere he is aware of it, his eye is fol- lowing up and onward the vast mountain slopes above described, and on the far off horizon he wit- nesses intervening ridge after ridge peering above
147
GOOD-BY TO GREYLOCK.
one another, until they are lost in the distance, and unconsciously he finds his heart swelling with the emotion of sublimity."
Whether the route we have chosen for the ascent and descent of Greylock will be the one selected for improvement cannot now be stated; but it certainly affords more varied and satisfactory views of the scenery of the Greylock group than any other. If the roads were tolerably good, the tour of the mountain might easily be made in a day; and in the views from the bottom of the Hopper, from the top of Bald Moun- tain, from the summit of Greylock and from Prospect there would be glory enough for one day.
DOWN THE HOOSAC TO THE HUDSON.
Away from this pleasant valley some faces must turn at last. The shadow of Greylock that has fallen like a benediction upon the weary, must be forsaken for the shorter and hotter shadows of brown-stone walls; and the walks and drives that led to so many mountains of beatitude must be exchanged for the level weariness of city pavements. From the Troy and Boston rail- road station you trundle slowly out through the little tunnel, and soon the broad slopes of Mount Adams and the beautiful curves of Williams and Prospect are left behind as you follow the beautiful river down to- ward the sea. The river and the railroad pass through a corner of Vermont; the two or three villages named Pownal through which you pass, are in that sturdy little State. The two or three Hoosacs which follow are in
148
FROM THE HUB TO THE HUDSON.
the State of New York; the larger of these villages being known as Hoosac Falls and distinguished chiefly in these days as the place where the Walter A. Wood Mowing Machine Company has its extensive machine shops. The battle of Bennington was in this town of Hoosac, and the heights upon which it was fought are in view from the railroad just beyond Hoosac Junction. Hoosac Falls is the only important town between North Adams and Troy. The region through which the road runs is a most delightful one, however ; much of it fertile and highly cultivated. The Taghkanic Moun- tains on the one side and the Green Mountains on the other, draw close to the river as we pass through Ver- mont, but beyond Hoosac the Green Mountains retreat to the north and you look away to the right across a beautiful open country. Still the river windeth at its own sweet will through the meadows, and still you fol- low it, glad of its pleasant company. Its volume is swollen since you knew it first among the alders in the Adams valley; but unlike some whose fortunes grow, its added floods have robbed it of neither gentle- ness nor grace.
" Sing soft, sing low, our lowland river, Under thy banks of laurel bloom; Softly and sweet as the hour beseemeth, Sing us the songs of peace and home.
" The cradle-song of thy hill-side fountains Here in thy glory and strength repeat ; Give us a taste of thy upland music, Show us the dance of thy silver feet.
149
CANTABILE-DIMINUENDO-FINALE.
" Into thy dutiful life of uses
Pour the music and weave the flowers ; With the song of birds and bloom of meadows, Lighten and gladden thy heart and hours.
" Sing on ! bring down, O lowland river, The joy of the hills to the waiting sea ; The wealth of the vales, the pomp of mountains, The breath of the woodlands bear with thee."
But the railroad that was glad to woo the river when the way was hard among the hills, has found that the world is wider, and coolly withdraws to the southward. From the heights along which it leads you, the valley of the Hudson soon appears broad and bright with verdure; from the rocky bluff beyond the valley, the waters of the Mohawk tumble down the cataract that turns the mill-wheels of Cohoes; the twin villages of Waterford and Lansingburgh greet you from their lowly seat by the Hudson; there are street lamps, pavements, flagmen at the crossings ; the speed slack- ens; a vast and smoky roof, with massive iron trusses, hides the sky, and your journey ends where the jour- ney of Aneas begun-within the walls of Troy.
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ADVERTISEMENTS.
BRIGGS & BOLAND, No. 4 Wilson Block, NORTH ADAMS, MASS., Merchant Tailors,
MANUFACTURERS OF AND DEALERS IN LADIES' CLOAKS AND CLOAKINGS. DEALERS IN Ready - Made Clothing AND GENTS' FURNISHING GOODS. Agents for Singer's Sewing Machines. H. P. BRIGGS. M. BOLAND.
L. M. BARNES & CO., DEALERS IN Fine Gold and Silver Watches,
JEWELRY AND GOLD PENS. 18 k. Plain Rings made to order. Silver Ware, &c. ALSO AGENTS FOR PIANOS, MELODEONS AND ORGANS Of the standard makers. HOPF VIOLINS AND STRINGS.
New Sheet Music received weekly. Particular attention paid to Repairing Fine Watches and Jewelry, at No. 5 Wilson Block, NORTH ADAMS, MASS.
ADVERTISEMENT.
WILSON HOUSE.
NORTH ADAMS, MASS.,
Is one of the largest and best appointed Hotels in the State. During the last two months it has been refitted, decorated, and
put
IN COMPLETE ORDER THROUGHOUT.
THE HOUSE IS FURNISHED WITH
Hot and Cold Water Baths.
The Post Office, the Telegraph Office and a Billiard Room are in the Hotel Building.
WILSON HALL,
The largest in Western Massachusetts, is connected with the Hotel.
The proprietors will spare no pains to make the House pleasant and attractive to all who may favor them with a visit
STREETER & ROGERS, PROPRIETORS.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
WILLIAM MARTIN,
DEALER IN
LUMBER, Ready-Made Clothing, AND GENTS' FURNISHING GOODS,
Main Street, opposite Wilson House, NORTH ADAMS, MASS.
JEWETT & RAND,
DEALERS IN
Boots, Shoes and Rubbers,
No. 6 WILSON BLOCK, MAIN STREET,
NORTH ADAMS, MASS.
First-class Custom Work made to order, in latest city styles, and every article warranted.
M. C. JEWETT.
L. C. RAND. .
SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY, SPRINGFIELD, MASS.,
OWN AND CONDUCT AN EXTENSIVE
Book and Job - Printing Office,
BOOK BINDERY,
AND
BLANK BOOK MANUFACTORY,
INCLUDING AN ELECTROTYPING ESTABLISHMENT AND A MANU- FACTORY OF PHOTOGRAPH ALBUMS.
THEIR establishment occupies one of the largest buildings on Main street, Springfield, and, in capacity and completeness, has no superior in all New · England.
They run twenty-five different Printing Presses, between fifty and sixty ma- chines of all kinds, and employ nearly three hundred workmen and women.
Every description of Printing, from Cards and Handbills to Books; from the simplest and plainest to the most intricate, elegant and costly.
BINDING of all sorts and in every style.
BLANK BOOKS of every fashion, made to order, or on sale, wholesale and retail.
PHOTOGRAPH ALBUMS, from 25 cents to $25 each, singly or by the quantity, by mail or express, at lowest manufacturers' prices.
Books stereotyped, printed, bound and published.
LEGAL BLANKS printed to order, or on sale in any quantity.
In brief, all Job Work and Manufacturing ever done in Printing Office and Bindery, is performed at this establishment, promptly, of the best materials, by the best of workmen, and in the best manner known in either art.
Orders by mail as faithfully attended to as those left in person.
PATENT COUNTING-ROOM CALENDAR.
MESSRS. BOWLES & COMPANY manufacture this, the most convenient Counting- House Calendar in use, which is also a desirable means of advertising, for Insur- ance Companies, Bankers, Merchants, and business men generally. Orders filled at short notice, in lots of from 500 to 50,000, with the business cards of parties ordering on each leaf, printed in such a manner that the advertisements cannot be detached and destroyed as long as the Calendar is in use.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
THE Travelers' Insurance Company OF HARTFORD, CONN.
CASH ASSETS,
$1,150,000.
Insures against ACCIDENTS causing death or total dis- ability.
Accident Policies written by any authorized Agent for the month or year, insuring $500 to $10,000 for fatal accident, or $3 to $50 per week for loss of time caused by wholly disabling bodily injury. For merchants, professional or business men, commer- cial travelers, and most of the trades and mechanical occupations the cost is but $5 to $10, annually on each $1,000 insured and $5 weekly indemnity. It is but five years since the Company was organized, yet it has issued 160,000 policies, and has paid nearly
ONE MILLION DOLLARS
under claims for death or injury by accident.
THIS COMPANY ALSO GRANTS
LIFE AND ENDOWMENT POLICIES
ON THE LOW RATE CASH PLAN,
Combining ample security and cheapness of cost under a defi- nite contract. The Life Department of the Travelers was or- ganized in July, 1866, and up to April, 1869, it had issued over Six Thousand Life Policies, a larger number than any other Life Company of the same age, with one exception.
JAMES G. BATTERSON, President.
RODNEY DENNIS, Secretary. GEORGE B. LESTER, Actuary.
CHARLES E. WILSON, EDWARD V. PRESTON,
Assistant Secretary. Superintendent of Agencies.
New York Office, 207 Broadway ; Boston, 89 Washington street ; Philadelphia, 417 South Fourth street ; Western Branch 80 La Salle street, Chicago; Pacific Branch, 424 California street, San Francisco.
.
ADVERTISEMENT.
PLAIN THOUGHTS ON THE ART OF LIVING. Designed for Young Men and Women. BY WASHINGTON GLADDEN.
I vol., 16mo. $1.50.
CONTENTS-The Messenger without a Message-Work for Women -Dress - Manners-Conversation - Habits - Health and Physical Culture-Mind Culture-Success-Stealing as a Fine Art-Companionship and Society-Amusement-Respect- ability and Self-respect - Marriage -The Conclusion of the Whole Matter.
This book has been cordially welcomed by the press, as treat- ing with much ability, freshness, and earnestness several of the problems which young people are meeting daily.
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" If anything can supply the want of common sense in life, this book can do it. And it is a very valuable adjunct to that indispensable commodity .- Al- bany Journal.
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" There is more solid, practical advice to young men and women in this little volume than most boys and girls ever receive from parents, teachers, and preachers .- Catholic Telegraph.
For sale by all Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the Pub- lishers,
FIELDS, OSGOOD & CO., BOSTON.
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