Gazetteer of the state of Massachusetts, pt 1, Part 17

Author: Nason, Elias, 1811-1887. cn; Varney, George Jones, 1836-1910, ed
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: Boston, B. B. Russell
Number of Pages: 742


USA > Massachusetts > Gazetteer of the state of Massachusetts, pt 1 > Part 17


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Other sources of entertainment and intelligence are the excellent lectures of all kinds frequently given in the numerous halls and the vestry-rooms of the churches and of the Christian associations. Many of these are free, though of equal value with those which re- quire an admission fee. The Young Men's and the Young Women's Christian Associations and the Young Men's Christian Union (especially the last) are well known for their liberality in this re- spect. The most valuable free lectures, however, are those given in courses, and from two to four a week, through all the colder third of the year, at the expense and under the direction of the Lowell Insti- tute; this was endowed by John Lowell, junior, by a legacy of $250,000, its opening course of lectures having been given in 1848.


The issues of the Boston printing press are characteristic of New England, and a credit to the city as an intellectual centre. There are about 150 book publishers, some of whom send out editions of several hundred different books each year; and several add to these monthly magazines, weekly journals, or quarterlies. Including news- papers, daily and weekly, there are published in the city nearly 250 periodicals, -of which some 45 are religious, 14 scientific, 3 relate to law, 3 to medicine, 4 to music, 2 to health, 11 or more are theo- logical, 9 are commercial, 10 educational, 7 relate to schools, 15 are


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juveniles of which 11 are religious ; about a dozen are distinctively political, 3 are in German and 2 in French. The ethical standard of journalism in Boston is high, and its literary quality superior.


The number of churches in the city is 234. Two of these are Ad- vent churches ; 29, Baptist ; 2, Christian; 36, Trinitarian Congrega- tional; 26, Unitarian ; 2, Congregational; 24, Episcopal; 1, Re- formed Episcopal ; 27, Methodist Episcopal; 3, Methodist; 1, Friends; S, Jewish; 7, Lutheran 2, New Church . (Swedenbor- gian) ; 9, Presbyterian; 1, Reformed Church (German) ; 32, Roman Catholic; 2, Spiritualist; 7, Universalist; and 13 of various denom- inations. The estimated present value of the church buildings (not


BOSTO


YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION, BOSTON.


including the land) is $3,963,000. Christ Church (Episcopal), on Salem Street, erected in 1723, is the oldest church edifice in the city. From its tower (in which there is now a chime of eight bells) Paul Revere sent out his lantern signal, and General Burgoyne witnessed the battle of Bunker Hill. The Old South Church, on Washington Street, was first occupied for public worship on the 26th of April, 1730. It is preserved as a relic of the early period of the nation, and is used for the display of lesser relies, and for lectures on historical and sociological subjects. King's Chapel, on Tremont Street, was first used for divine service on August 21, 1754. It contains several beautiful memorial tablets. Adjoining it is the


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oldest burial place in the city. This church is a plain and solid edifice of dark granite, with a massive square tower surrounded below the entablature by wooden Ionic columns. It is valued at $25,000; while the lot in which it stands is estimated to be worth $514,000. Park Street Church, occupying a commanding site on Tremont Street, was consecrated January 10, 1810. It has seats for about 1,200 persons. Its spire rises 218 feet above the pave- ment, forming a conspicuous feature in the distant view. St Paul's Church, on Tremont Street, consecrated June 20, 1820, is con- strueted of fine gray granite, in the Grecian Ionic style. The Bea- con Hill Church, though secluded, is perhaps the most unique in its appearance of any in the city. It is a union church, and a com- mon resort of the patrons of the benevolent and re- ligious institutions of which Dr. Charles Cullis has been the chief pro- moter. Tremont Temple is the home of a Baptist society ; but it has a busi- ness-like front, and its several halls are used for secular meetings and en- tertainments, as well as for religious purposes. The Methodist Church on Tremont Street was dedi- cated January 1, 1862. It is built of Roxbury stone, in simple Gothic KING'S CHAPEL. BOSTON. style, and is remarkable for its fine proportions. The Central Church on the corner of Berkeley and Newbury streets (Trinitarian Congregational) was dedicated in 1867. It is constructed of Roxbury stone with sandstone trimmings, in a characteristic Gothic style. Its steeple is 236 feet in height, the tallest in Boston. The First Church in Boston (Unitarian), near by on the same street, was used for the first time in Decem- ber, 1868. It is a beautiful edifice, especially noticeable for its fine carriage porch. The Arlington Street Church (Unitarian) is a charming building of brown freestone in the English style at the Wren period. It has a striking interior after the Corinthian order. In its tower is a chime of bells. One of the prin- cipal landmarks of Commonwealth Avenue is the "Brattle-square Church," now occupied by the First Baptist society. It is a fine building of cream-colored sandstone, and remarkable for its noble tower. Trinity Church (Episcopal) on Copley Square, was consecrated February 9, 1877. It is of dark Dedham granite, with brown freestone trimmings. Its central tower is 211 feet in height. The edifice is a fine example of French Romanesque, and is valued


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PARK STREET CHURCH, BOSTON.


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at $500,000. There is little more land in its lot than is occupied by the building, yet it is valued at $320,000. The New Old South Church, on the same square, is one of the most conspicuous edifices in the city. Its architecture is North Italian Gothic, and its abun- dant ornament gives it a somewhat oriental effect. The tall and rather striking tower (248 feet in height) has the appearance of leaning slightly away from the main edifice. The building alone is valued at $368,000. The Church of the Immaculate Conception, on Harrison Avenue, was dedicated in 1861. It is built of granite, and has a brilliant interior finish with a combination of Ionic and Corin- thian forms. The Boston College is connected with this church. The buildings of the church and college cost about $350,000. The


TRINITY CHURCH, BOSTON.


Cathedral of the Holy Cross, commenced in 1867, is one of the most spacious and splendid church edifices in the metropolis. It will contain about 5,000 people. The material is Roxbury stone. One of the towers, if completed according to design, will have an altitude of 300 feet; but there is some doubt regarding the safety of the foundation. The First Spiritual Temple, on the corner of Exeter and Newbury streets, is a handsome but somewhat curious struc- ture. It is built of brownstone, and is largely Romanesque in its architecture. Its value is estimated at $200,000.


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The various sections of the present city of Boston have a history of their own. Soon after its annexation in 1804, South Boston was connected with the city proper by a bridge across the channel at the "Neck" at Dover Street. It was opened in March of the same year with a military display and great civic "pomp and circum- stance." The bridge was 1,550 feet long and its cost $50,000. Later a substantial iron bridge took its place. A second bridge at the foot of Federal Street was built in 1828. The magnificent iron bridges erected still more recently, extending from Harrison Avenue and Congress and Swett streets to South Boston, seem to furnish all necessary connection between the inner and the seaward sections. At the time of the annexation, South Boston (earlier a part of Dor- chester) possessed but ten families; but each successive bridge added largely to its population. Its most rapid growth, however, followed the establishment of the street railroad system in 1854. About the margin is much "made " land. Near the centre is the abrupt eminence known variously as Telegraph Hill, from its having been used as a marine signal station; and Mount Washington, from its having been fortified by General Washington when he invested the British army ; and as Dorchester Heights, under which name it was known until a comparatively recent date. Two squares north- easterly, on a lower eminence, is the Perkins Institution for the Blind. Four streets farther in the same direction, on anotlier eleva- tion, is Independence Square, a pretty park occupying about two squares. Across the east end of the island is laid out the Marine Park, which, it is hoped, may be extended to Castle Island. On the north side of the island are the House of Correction and the Insane Hospital. A large portion of the space between these and the foreign docks connected with the New York and New England Railroad is occupied by various manufactories, and by the Alger iron works. Here have been produced the largest cannon ever made in America.


East Boston is noted for its ship-yards, founderies and sugar refineries. Here is the landing place of the Atlantic steamships, and the terminus of the Grand Junction Railway. It formerly bore the name of "Noddle's Island," from the first known resident. Mr. Maverick (who, later, became the owner) had a fort mounting four guns, on the high ground here in 1630. In 1814, Fort Strong was erected on the spot now occupied by Belmont Square. At the out- break of the Revolution Mr. Thomas Williams was the sole resi- dent; and the British, descending upon the island, carried off his flocks and herds and burned his farmhouse. The island at this period contained about 660 acres of land, not reckoning the flats (since filled up), and was separated from Boston (Shawmut) by 132 rods of water. The first ferry boat was authorized in 1637. As - late as 1833, the entire population comprised only eight persons. In 1836 the Eastern Railroad built its road and a depot on the island, and in 1839 the Cunard line of ocean steamships made East Boston their landing; and the place grew rapidly, so that in 1879 there were 17 miles of streets. These, from the first, have uni- formly been named for our own country towns and eminent men.


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The higher portions afford pleasing views of the harbor, and have many fine residences. Maverick Square is the most important busi- ness centre.


Charlestown was the capital and the earlier place of residence of Governor Winthrop and his associates. The Indians called the place Mishawum. At the time of the battle with the British, there, Charlestown had some 300 dwellings and 150 to 200 other buildings. The land at the southern part rises from the water into an emi- mence formerly called Breed's Hill, where the battle was fought; the position being taken instead of Bunker Hill; and here, too, stands Bunker Hill Monument commemorating it. The real Bunker Hill is a little northward and considerably higher. It is now occu- pied by a handsome Roman Catholic church. Bunker Hill Monu- ment was begun in 1825, and completed in 1843. The base of the structure is 30 feet square, tapering to 15g feet, where the angle of the summit begins. Its entire height is 221} feet. The shaft is hollow, and contains a spiral staircase of 295 steps, ascending to a chamber at the top, where are four windows from whence beau- tiful views may be obtained. The cost was $150,000. On the south- east side of the peninsula is the United States Navy Yard, occupy- ing 833 acres of land.


Roxbury is mentioned by William Wood, the first historian of New England, in 1633. He says: "It is something rocky, which it has the name of Rocksberry." None will dispute its being rocky in parts; for " Roxbury pudding-stone " is familiar to the eyes, as the term is to the ears, of all Bostonians, not only in its native bed, but in many of the finest buildings of the city. What is now Washing- ton Street, in this district, was formerly "The Street " of Roxbury, where the business was concentrated. Roxbury was the native place of Generals Warren, Heath and Greaton, the residence of General Dearborn, and of many wealthy people, a few of the fine old houses yet remaining. As a place of residence, the Roxbury district is found to have great attractions, and is rapidly filling with attractive dwellings.


The Dorchester district is generally elevated, good views of the bay and of the surrounding localities being attainable from the upper rooms of many of the dwellings. When, in June, 1630, the company of the " Mary and John," including two clergymen, Revs. Meverick and Wareham, came to this place, the Indians called it "Mattapan; " but the company quickly named it Dorchester, after the town of this name in England. They set up a church soon after, but its site is now unknown. It is stated that the first water- mill in America was set up in Dorchester, and that its citizens were the first to engage in the cod fishery. The quaint town-hall still remains. Other and admirable features are the ancient meeting- house and the magnificent soldiers' monument on Meeting-House Hill; the Lyman Fountain, on Eaton Square; its noble trees and fine gardens ; its quaint old burial place; Grove Hall and its benev- olent institutions (Dr. Cullis').


West Roxbury was detached from Roxbury and incorporated as a


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town in 1851, and a part of Dedham was annexed in the following year. Brook Farm Phalanx was established on picturesque ground in the western part, in 1841. This establishment is now the German Orphan Asylum. Jamaica Pond, a beautiful sheet of water about 56 acres in extent, is a principal feature of this district. Overlooking it and the towns for miles about is Bellevue Hill, 334 feet above sea- level, and the highest point in the city. Handsome public and pri- vate buildings and abundant ornamental vegetation, with rows of great trees along the streets, make this one of Boston's most agree- able purlieus.


Brighton is now, as it has been since the Revolution, the chief cattle market of New England. Its chief objects of note are the Abattoir,-the place of the slaughter of food animals; the Cattle- fair Hotel; the Old Mansion of Peter Faneuil, its enormous horse- chestnut tree in front; and beautiful Evergreen Cemetery, with its soldiers' monument. Allston is a pleasant modern village, where terminates the "Mile-ground; " Bigelow Hill affords fine views of sea and neighboring villages; and Chestnut Hill Reservoir, where Beacon Street fairly ends has an attractive marginal driveway. Originally this section of Boston was called "Little Cambridge." It was incorporated in 1807; and annexed to Boston in 1873, being now Ward 25.


Boston (the city proper) was called by the Indians Shawmut, which is supposed to have signified "a spring of water; " but the early white settlers called it " Trimountaine," from its three hills. It was purchased of William Blackstone, the sole inhabitant; and a settlement was commenced by some colonists from Charlestown on the 17th day of September, 1630. They called their settlement Boston, from the old town in England from which some of them had come. This com- pany organized under a large tree in Charlestown under the name, "First Church of Christ in Boston." The Rev. John Wilson was the first min- ister, and the first meeting-house was erected in 1632. The society (now. Unitarian) occupies a very elegant church on the corner of Marlborough and Berkeley streets. The second church was organized June 5, 1650; and the Rev. Jolm Mayo (or May- hew) was settled over it November UNITARIAN BUILDING, Corner Beacon and Bowdoin Streets. 9, 1665. £ He was succeeded by Rev. Increase Mather, D.D., May 27, 1664. The first house of this society, called the "Old North," was burned by the British, January 16, 1776. After several removes and various fortunes the society, in 1874, dedicated a new and elegant edifice of freestone, situated on Boylston Street, near Dartmouth, and is now Unitarian.


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The succession of pastors in this society, following Increase Mather, is Cotton Mather (1635-1728), Joshua Gee (1723-48), Samuel Ma- ther (1732-41), Samuel Checkley, Jun. (1747-68), John Lathrop


Old Trinity Church, Summer Street.


SCENE IN THE GREAT FIRE, IS72.


(1768_1816), Henry Ware, Jun. (1817-30), Ralph Waldo Emerson (1829-32), Chandler Robbins (1833-74) Robert Laird Collier (1876- 78), Rev. Edward A. Horton (1880). The third church was organ- ized May 12, 1669, and its building, known as the Old South, was


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first occupied for religious services on April 26, 1730. The society now has, instead, a beautiful church edifice on the corner of Boyl- ston and. Dartmouth streets, known as the New Old South.


The first Baptist church was organized in Charlestown May 28, 1665, when Rev. Thomas Gould was chosen pastor. After various locations it erected a fine house of worship on Somerset Street, Beacon Hill, whose tall spire was a landmark for many years. The Jacob Sleeper Hall of Boston University occupies its site, the society having, in 1877, united with the Shawmut Avenue Baptist Church, which was organized in 1856.


The first Episcopal church in Boston was organized in 1686; and at the time of the Revolution King's Chapel was its house of wor- ship. The officers of the British army in Boston, and their families, formed the larger part of the congregation; and on the evacuation, in 1776, the services were discontinued. In 1786, the remnant of the society resumed religious services, with James Freeman as "reader." He was the first American Unitarian, known as Rev. James Freeman, D.D .; and under his ministry the society became


Unitarian. The second Episcopal church is that which still wor- ships at Christ's Church on Salem Street at the North End; which settled its first rector, Rev. Timothy Cutler, D.D., December 29, 1723. The third Episcopal church (Trinity) had its beginning in April, 1728, laid the corner stone of its first church edifice at the corner of Summer and Hawley streets April 15, 1734, which was opened for worship on August 15, 1735.


The first Universalist church was organized in 1785; and the Rev. John Murray was settled over it October 24, 1793.


The first Roman Catholic was established in 1788, and the mass was first celebrated on November 22 of that year.


A Methodist society was formed in 1792, and in 1795 erected a chapel in the north part of the city.


The first Christian church was organized in 1804, and Elder Abner Jones became the first minister in the same year.


The African Baptist church was organized in 1805. The Freewill Baptist church became such in 1834. The German Evangelical church was organized in 1840; the Lutheran, in 1841; the first Pres- byterian in September, 1846; and the New Jerusalem church was organized on August 15, 1818.


The first public school was established in 1635; and the first town-house was completed in 1659.


Incensed by the arbitrary measures of Sir Edmund Andros, the royal governor, the people, on the 8th of April, 1689, rose in arms, and seizing him and a part of his council, put them into prison, and restored the former magistrates to their offices. This was the com- mencement of that resistance to kingly authority which eventually resulted in the establishment of civil liberty throughout the country. The population of the town in 1700 was about 7,000; and the Eng- lish style of dress and living generally prevailed. It was probably then the richest town in America. The celebrated George White- field visited the place in 1740; and it is said that as many as 23.000


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persons were present at his farewell sermon on the Common. He was bitterly opposed by many of the Boston clergymen. The Old Town Hall was burned in 1747, and the building at the head of State Street; and now called "The Old State House," was soon after built. During the same year the town was thrown into great excite-


LIBERTY TREE.


ment by the impressment of some of its mechanics by the squad- ron of Commodore Knowles, then lying in the harbor. The mili- tary companies were called out ; and, after various demonstrations, the commodore threatening to bombard the town, the men were finally restored. During the ten years prior to 1776, Boston was the principal theatre of those eventful scenes which preceded and


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opened the Revolution. The passage of the Stamp Act in 1765 threw the people into great excitement; and the appointment of Andrew Oliver as distributor of stamps caused the first popular out- break. The British troops arrived to maintain order on September 30, 1768; and the place was changed into a garrison.


Collisions between the people and the British soldiers became more and more frequent. A boy named Christopher Snyder was killed in one of these encounters February 23, 1770; and over the head of his coffin were inscribed the words, " Innocentia nusquam tuta." On the 5th of March occurred the Boston Massacre, in which five unarmed citizens were killed by the British soldiery on State Street. In December, 1773, was formed the Boston Tea-Party, -and some thirty men, disguised as Indians, went on board of some ships laden with tea on which there was a heavy duty, and emptied 240 chests and 100 half-chests into the dock. In January, 1775, General Thomas Gage had in Boston eleven British regiments and four companies of artillery; and after the battle of Bunker Hill, June 17, the town was brought into a state of siege, when the inhabitants experienced great hardship and suffering. On the morning of March 5, 1776, General Washington appeared with his well-protected batteries on Dorches- ter Heights, commanding alike the town and the harbor; and then, with the evacuation of the place by the circumvented and outgener- alled Howe, which followed on the 17th, expired the last vestige of British authority in Boston.


Boston was incorporated as a city in 1822 ; and Hon. John Phillips was the first mayor. The first building erected in Boston as a place of amusement was built in 1756. It was named Concert Hall, and is still standing. The next was the Federal Street Theatre, completed and opened in 1794.


The system of steam railroads, first coming into practical operation in Boston in 1834, furnished the needed means of growth in her commerce and wealth ; and notwithstanding the business depression of 1837 and 1857, she has made wise and successful use of her advan- tages.


When the war of the Slaveholders' Rebellion came, Boston took a very active part, furnishing men and money in unstinted measure. No less than 26,119 men, of whom 685 were commissioned officers, were sent by this city alone into the service of the army or the navy ; and the splendid monument in the central part of the Common wit- nesses to their noble service.


The growth of the city was for a time retarded by the immense conflagration of November 9 and 10, 1872. This commenced in a large building on the southwesterly side of Summer and Kingston streets, continuing with unabated fury until about 65 acres of the business portion of the city, comprising 776 buildings, were laid in ruins, and property in buildings and merchandise to the amount of $73,500,000 was destroyed. The fire extended northerly, sweeping everything before it, as far as the new post-office, and easterly to the wharves. The scene of the conflagration was grand and fearful be- yond description.


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This check to the growth of the city was brief ; and larger and finer buildings of brick, iron, or stone have taken the places of those swept away ; streets and avenues are, in many instances, widened ; and the reconstructed section of the city under many points of view surpasses the old. The commercial area has been greatly enlarged southward and westward. The outward movement of residences, and the occupation of suburbs as residences by merchants, lawyers and many in other pursuits, has been made possible by the rapid transit afforded by the numerous lines of steam railroads and street cars.


The number of eminent people whom Boston may claim for her own by birth and education, or by their early and prolonged residence, would fill a biographical dictionary of respectable size ; of whom only a few can be mentioned in these pages : -


John Hale, Charlestown,born in 1636, James Freeman, D.D., Charlestown, Rev. Increase Mather, D. ! )., born 1639, 1759, John Cotton, 1640, Samuel Dexter, LI .. D., 1761,


Joseph Dudley, Roxbury, 1647,


Sir Roger Hale Sheaffe, 1763,


Cotton Mather, D.D., 1663,


Col. Thomas Handasyd Perkins, 1764,


John Alford, Charlestown, 1686,


Harrison Gray Otis, 1765.


William Cooper, 1694,


Mather Byles, D.D)., 1706,


Thaddeus Mason Harris, D.D., Charles- town, 1768, John Phillips, 1770,


Joseph Green, 1706, Benjamin Franklin, LL.D., 1706.


Josiah Quincy, LL.D., 1772,


John Pierce, D.D., 1773,


Benjamin Gorham, Charlestown, 1775,


Thomas Hutchinson, 1711,


Daniel Fowle, 1715, Samuel Adams, 1722,


Thomas Prince, 1722,


Samuel Cooper, D.D., 1725,


Stephen Badger, Charlestown, 1726,




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