USA > Massachusetts > Franklin County > Greenfield > History of Greefield, shire town of Franklin county, Massachusetts, Vol. II > Part 38
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as far as Bellows Falls, when there was what was called " a good pitch of water."
With inexpensive engineering at difficult parts of the river, between Hartford and the mouth of the Deerfield, and stern- wheel steamboats to tow the barges on the " reaches," quite rapid work was done. The boats used wind as much as pos- sible,-having a large main and top sail, very effective when the wind was in the South on the upward trip, or in the North on the way down ; but when the winds were adverse the nu- merous crew worked up stream with " set poles;" this was called " a white ash breeze," and was severe and exhausting labor.
Allen, Root & Co. in later years, controlled the freighting of all this part of the river. They had a steamboat that ran from the head of the South Hadley canal to Montague, tow- ing the loaded boats ; the boat for Greenfield left the tow line at Deerfield river and made Cheapside with the white ash breeze.
Those who hear this story of the past will readily believe that our rivers had a deeper and more equal flow of water in those days. When the Green River Works were built, nearly seventy years ago, the stream was larger than it is now, with a steady water power all summer. The rainfall has not less- ened, but the heavy forests have been destroyed ; these held the precipitation, and long delayed the melting snows, which now run from the denuded hillsides, washing the soil into the valley and making sudden freshets; the unshaded springs dry early, and the river beds show narrow channels and reaches of sand.
It is to be deplored that our grandfathers did not borrow more Dutch money, or tax themselves and bond posterity, to deepen the channel of the Connecticut and make canals about its falls, at a time when there was no powerful influence to prevent such improvements.
Whoever sees the enormous traffic on the rivers of Ger-
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many, like the Elbe, becomes aware of the great economy in the use of natural waterways, when their channels are deepened and the flow regulated by jetties.
When Greenfield patiently looked for the arrival of boats for its supply of heavy goods the world was not in a hurry. Except on a few main lines of travel the country was work- ing and dreaming, much as it had always done. The last century was well advanced when railways began to change the relations of communities, but the movement was rapid and soon the isolated town with its varied industries was but a memory. Steam has made us citizens of every state and participants in the general bounty of nature.
Greenfield has had a fair share in the prosaic and noisy " prosperity " of recent years, but it was a sweet and restful place in its youth. A former inhabitant, if called to life, would think the present town a realm of enchantment, with roads cut through the bowels of the earth, and miraculous means of locomotion; he would start with surprise to see light and water springing into sight at turning a handle or touching a button. Perhaps, when his wonder subsided, he would miss something of peace and quietness. The changes are material, physical and mechanical ; what seemed impossible has become common- place ; men and women are unchanged.
While Greenfield has kept pace with the country it has happily never had the intoxication, and consequent reaction of a " boom." Hard times have always touched it lightly. Its important industries have had no experience of failure and reorganization. It has been fortunate in its citizens and in its families. Its remoteness from larger towns has been to its advantage and tended to the development of self-depend- ence. I regret that circumstances prevent me from ending my days where they so fortunately began.
In my long absences from the valley of the Connecticut I have ever had the feeling of an exile. The scenes of child- hood have our first and last affection :
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" Dearer thy hills, though clad in autumn brown Than fairest summits which the cedars crown, Sweeter the fragrance of thy summer breeze Than all Arabia breathes along the seas ! O happiest they whose early love unchanged, Hopes undissolved, and friendships unestranged, Tired of their wanderings, still can ever see Love, hopes, and friendships, centering all in thee."
AFTER NOTES
The great celebration of the 150th anniversary of the in- corporation of Greenfield has come and gone, and with the gradual disappearance of the decorations Greenfield once more takes up its wonted life, and the June 9 observance becomes a memory. But it is a memory that will be a life-long endur- ance to every citizen of Greenfield who was present Tuesday. Without doubt it was the most brilliant day in Greenfield's history. A coaching parade, which many good judges call the best they ever saw here or elsewhere, historical exercises that commanded the presence and the utterance of two such distinguished speakers, the general accessories of music and fireworks and an enormous crowd constitute the climax of Greenfield's experience of public observances.
The affair is remarkable for the unity of feeling which it has developed. All the help that was needed was forthcom- ing, and the number of workers was very large indeed and represented all interests and social circles of Greenfield. It is characteristic of such affairs in Greenfield that all the com- mittees and workers seem to pull together, and to this much of the success of this affair is due.
The general committee, consisting of Judge Fessenden, W. G. Packard, E. B. Blake, Judge F. M. Thompson and C. R. Lowell, has had the brunt of the battle, and deserves the very greatest credit for hard and efficient work. A heavy responsibility also fell upon the Coaching club, which assumed
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charge of the parade. Had things gone wrong, the Coaching club would have come in for blame ; with things right, it is natural that the officers of the organization feel pleased that their work has been so successful. They do not, however, claim more than their fair share of credit, recognizing that the success of the celebration is due in the last analysis to the loyal support of the citizens of the town. The Coaching club desires particularly to thank those who worked upon the flowers and who decorated private residences.
The whole proceeding went off with the smoothness of clock-work. It was evident that every detail had been carefully thought out in advance, and difficulties had been met. As a result there were no hitches and no delays.
The arch that spanned Main street has been generally pro- nounced a harmonious and satisfactory structure. It was simple in design, and did not err by the over ornateness so often characteristic. There was a reserve about the use of decora- tions that made it striking and effective. When lighted the effect was particularly beautiful.
It consisted of a horizontal top supported by two columns, the whole covered with white and decorated with gilt scrolls and brackets and trimmed with festoons and wreaths of laurel and with flags. Above was a representation of the town seal. The figures 1753-1903 were spelled out by the electric light bulbs. The base of each column was eight by nine feet, the height of columns 29 feet, the opening of the arch 29 feet high and 26 wide. The total height was 41 feet. There was also an arch at the railroad station bearing the inscription 1753- Welcome-1903, and decorated with bunting. The colors most used in the street were red, white and blue, and with white and yellow.
The good work of the decorators is worthy of special com- ment. The bunting was put up by the American Decorating company of South Framingham. About five tons of bunting was used, and $7,000 worth of stock was put upon the build-
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ings. A force of 15 men was employed. The decorators who undertake such jobs have a rather laborious time, and get little opportunity to share in the jubilation for which they help prepare. They worked day and night, shifts of men being so arranged as to give everyone his sleep except the head dec- orator. The work was continued through Sunday. When all is in place the decorators are always so tired that they lie down to sleep, while the crowd is enjoying their work and celebrating the occasion. The work of pulling down the bunting began Wednesday, and all would have been down Thursday night had it not been for the rain. The town has never looked better at the hands of any decorator. The flags thrown across Main street heightened the gay effect. Almost everyone along the line of march displayed flags and some undertook more elaborate displays.
The early morning excursion of the Grand Army veterans to Poet's Seat was an outing that the former soldiers greatly enjoyed. The affair seemed to bring back their war expe- riences ; they exchanged jokes, called each other " powder- monkey," and other terms of endearment, and went through the regular military motions as if they were in service once more. The old gun kicked mightily on one discharge, re- coiling into the bushes about eight feet.
A good-sized delegation of the newspaper men of Massa- chusetts responded to the invitation extended through the publicity committee. Landlord Eels generously provided them headquarters at The Devens, and refused to make any charge. At noon the party was entertained at the Mansion House. The guests included the following : W. L. Hill, Athol Transcript ; Col. Edgar J. Bliss, Boston Correspondent ; John M. Grainey, Boston Post; Fred W. Main, Springfield Republican ; W. F. Leitch, Jr., Easthampton Enterprise ; L. N. Clark, Westfield Times and Newsletter; R. W. Water- man, Athol Chronicle; G. L. Munn, Easthampton News ; J. H. Whiting, Gardner Journal; F. E. Howe, Bennington
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Banner ; J. S. Whitman, Orange Enterprize & Journal ; F. W. Ward, Winchendon Courier ; J. F. Temple, Shelburne Falls Echo.
Many Greenfield people kept open house on anniversary day, serving luncheon all the afternoon to the friends that happened in. Mrs. William G. Packard entertained about 50 in that way, and Mrs. Henry D. Packard and Mrs. A. C. Deane were two of a number of others that assisted in like fashion.
Nathan D. Allen, deputy warden at the state prison, wit- nessed the celebration.
Mrs. C. A. Deal made 58 hats for women participating in the parade.
The children gathered upon the common for the parade made a pretty sight. The settees they used were appropriated by visitors after the parade, and offered a welcome rest to the weary.
The presence of some of the honored men of the older gen- eration was noticeable. George Sheldon, George W. Horr of Athol, Samuel O. Lamb of Greenfield, and Rev. Dr. Lyman Whiting of East Charlemont, made an interesting quartet.
Although many of the visitors had excursion tickets, Ticket Agent C. J. Fisk and Assistant Zeiner were kept on the jump for over an hour supplying the crowd with tickets for the even- ing train out of Greenfield.
Judge Thompson has been a busy man these days. The newspaper men and others looking for historical information have been constantly running to him. The Judge has met all inquirers cordially, and it is impossible to stick him on a point of Greenfield history.
Judge Fessenden has done very valuable work for the cele- bration, as his influence has counted heavily in securing the distinguished speakers who graced the day. William G. Packard has been secretary of the committee, and has been
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overwhelmed with work for the past few weeks. His grasp of details has helped greatly.
Greenfield luck on rainy parade days has turned at last. It has been a rainy week, and the exception of Tuesday from the showers that have fallen every other day since Sunday is a piece of good fortune that could not have been expected. We ought to be happy, for we have the needed rain and a good parade day too.
Chances to sit down were greatly in demand. The curb- stones along the courthouse and in front of the Washburn house are always favorite resting-places on such occasions. Every step along Main street was utilized, and some tired visitors were seen trying to find rest in the projections of the big trees on Main street, just above the roots.
The two electric roads took in about 25,000 fares Tues- day. Only an approximate estimate can be made of the number of people that came to town by trolley, but the street railway people believe that they brought from 6,000 to 8,000 people to Greenfield. The greatest crowd came from Turners Falls. One single-truck car carried 151 people. The cars on the Northampton line were crowded as far as Whately.
The guests of Greenfield express themselves in the warmest way as to the success of the affair. Senator Lodge and Gov- ernor Bates were very much pleased with the proceedings, which they praised in highest terms. They liked the people, and gave warm expression to their pleasure before leaving town. Their opinion is the universal one. The newspaper men spoke very warmly and are now engaged in booming Greenfield through their respective sheets. James H. New- ton wrote from Holyoke to a member of the general commit- tee saying that the parade was the best he ever saw.
CHAPTER LXXV
MRS. MARY P. WELLS SMITH'S RECOLLECTIONS
P ERSONS who have been feeling habitually young for the last fifty years or so experience a slight shock on being asked to furnish reminiscences for the town's 150th anniversary, they having observed that such tasks are usually assigned to " our oldest inhabitant." But the behest of our venerable friend, the Gazette and Courier, must be obeyed. Fragments that chance to remain in memory of mother's talk carry me back well towards the first quarter of the century. When Boston had its first steam railroad grand- father Coleman, as the highest sarcasm on what the farmers felt the growing pretensions of " the Street," remarked ironi- cally, " I suppose now Greenfield will think it must have a railroad !" The great event of the winter on grandfather's farm was the hired man's annual trip to Boston, driving down a big sleigh laden with fresh pork, beef, butter, and other prod- uce, to be exchanged not only for groceries and dry goods, but for such rarities as fresh fish and oysters, otherwise unob- tainable. The children never failed to be up in the winter darkness at 4 A. M. to see the sleigh set off on this eventful journey, which consumed a week, going and returning.
The farmers confidently predicted bankruptcy for my father on account of his extravagance in sending his daughters to boarding school, to the famous female seminary kept by the Misses Fiske at Keene, where the pupil who had not left any food on her plate to which she had helped herself received a silver salt spoon at the end of the year. But my mother had
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to long in vain for a piano, a luxury not to be thought of, even by her indulgent father. The first piano in town, and the only one for some time, was bought by Col. Gilbert of the American House for his daughter Martha.
Miss Filley, the village's sole milliner for many years, was a noted character. I well recollect her, and her peculiarity of calling everyone " my dear," she having been heard so to ad- dress a ribbon-peddlar, "No, my dear, not any to-day." Lucius Nims, as a tiny boy, having had the misfortune to en- ter Miss Filley's with his mother, the canny old lady said, " What a beauty you are, my dear ;" and thenceforth " Lutie's " life was made miserable by the other boys, who dubbed him " Miss Filley's beauty."
My earliest recollections of the village carry me back to one cattle show, when Uncle Lucius Nims brought a two horse wagon load of children down, and drove us around town to see the new streets. One was Franklin street, which then had but two or three houses, none on the east side. The young elms, recently set out by Henry Clapp, I think, were still slender saplings, and Park street was not. We drove to the end of Pleasant street, fenced off at the brow of the hill where it now meets Chapman street, and looked off across the fields to the new tool factory, an object of much interest then. Conway and the adjacent streets were just beginning, stimu- lated by the advent of the new business.
As a child I gazed with awe and admiration on the Clapp place with its great green lot, where stood a real statue against a pretty clump of trees, and a fancy summer house, feeling that it undoubtedly rivalled the Oriental magnificence de- scribed in my favorite Arabian Nights. And the village girls wore white pantalets every day. No wonder if they felt as superior as we country girls fancied.
For years my father's house on Davis street, three doors above Pleasant, stood at the end of the street, with nothing north but the Pierce farm. From my apple tree seat in the
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garden I gazed over the peaceful green fields and groves to the blue Leyden hills beyond, or watched old Mr. Pierce, John and Charles, getting in big loads of hay from land now covered by streets and houses. The section where now run Highland avenue, James street, etc., was then a hillside pas- ture, across which we strolled to Bears' Den.
The Greenfield of my youth was not only a much smaller but a much simpler place than now. We girls of 16 or so, attending the Congregational church in Mr. Headley's day, felt in winter well dressed in our figured delaine dresses and plaid woolen shawls folded cornerwise, with dark blue ribbons and capes replacing the lighter summer trimmings of our white straw bonnets. Custom demanded no more, and so we were satisfied. Dressmaking was easy. Any woman could make the skirt of her own dress, which was full and plain, merely hemmed or faced at the bottom, gathered at the top, and innocent of gore, flounce or ruffle. All the trimming re- quired was some fancy galloon, ribbon, or " taste " around the sleeves or their caps, and buttons down the waist fronts. At a tea party, if the hostess, in addition to the inevitable hot biscuits, tea, preserves, and three or four kinds of cake, added cold tongue or even perchance escalloped oysters, why, that was a tea party indeed. But ah, the good times at those by- gone tea parties at Mrs. Aiken's, Mrs. Lamb's, the Davis's, the Osgood's, the Leonard's, and many another hospitable home ; the bright talk of bright people, the wit, the kindness, the flow of good spirits,
" The eyes that shone, now dimmed and gone!"
Usually at Judge Aiken's we closed the evening, at his re- quest, by gathering around the piano and all singing to- gether " Auld Lang Syne."
The grandest occasions in town were the occasional court parties, held during court sessions, in honor of judges and lawyers from abroad. I recollect some delightful "Court
MRS. MARY P. WELLS SMITH'S REMINISCENCES 1171
parties " at Judge Grinnell's, the Davis's, the Stevens', Judge Mattoon's, and other houses, and how overcoming was the honor to the young girl, a bank clerk, in being taken out to "refreshments " once by General Devens. Great men in those days were demi-gods. One had not yet learned that the great are only human beings, after all, like the rest of us, and the more truly great, the more simple and unpretentious.
The first public labor I recollect is waiting on a table at a dinner party held in Davis block one cattle show by Mrs. W. T. Davis in aid of the Kansas sufferers. Three bright- eyed, wide-awake children had a candy table in aid of the cause on the sidewalk by the entrance. As I recall them running upstairs, all eager excitement, to report progress to their mother, it is hard to realize that they are now Mrs. John Conness, Mrs. Admiral Clarke, and Captain George Davis.
In the war times of the sixties, when the 5 2d regiment was encamped on Petty's plains (on the present fair grounds), the whole town was devoted to the soldiers. Puddings, pies, all imaginable delicacies were showered upon the camp. When October came, and it was rumored that "the boys" were cold, stoves enough were sent over to warm every tent. No wonder Prof. James K. Hosmer said to me, with characteristic enthusiasm, " Our life is a perpetual picnic." Then came the bleak, cloudy November day, when the venerable Dr. Chandler stood in the end of a wagon, and raising his hands to heaven, commended the departing regiment to God's care, and " the boys" marched off to war, some never to return, many to suffer for life the effects of hardships and exposure. Little of picnics or pampering did "the boys " know after leaving Greenfield. How we all worked in the sanitary com- mission ! Throughout the war the Greenfield branch worked faithfully, doing much sewing, sending many barrels of food and clothing to the front, and much money too. Over $800 was raised during the last year alone.
Perhaps it is only the fond antediluvian partiality of an
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oldest inhabitant which makes the Greenfield of other days, small and simple though it was, seem of a finer intellectual atmosphere than that characterizing our lively town of to-day. The tone of the town, or the times, perhaps, somehow tended to make ambitious young people feel that the thing to do was to know, to read the best books, keep up, so far as pos- sible, with the highest thought of the time. Uncle Lucius' big sleigh, almost as big as his kind heart, often brought loads of young folks down from the Meadows on sparkling cold winter nights to attend lectures by Emerson, Starr King, George W. Curtis, Wendell Phillips, Beecher, and other noted speakers. Thackeray gave one of his lectures on the Four Georges in Washington hall, and was entertained by Geo. T. Davis, whom he pronounced the best conversational- ist he met in America. Dr. and Mrs. John F. Moors often entertained parties of young folks at their ever-hospitable home, showing pictures brought from Europe in those days when a European trip was the rare privilege of the favored few, having Shakespeare readings, and in many ways exerting a strong influence for culture.
The young society people of those days, Mary Hall, Colo- nel Geo. D. Wells, Judge Charles Allen, and the rest, bent their energies to building up the Greenfield library, by means of a big library fair, for which Mrs. Whiting Griswold edited a paper, " Library Leaves." I recollect, as a high school girl, looking out of the window (the school was then kept in Davis block, over Kellogg's grocery) and seeing a certain dig- nified young lawyer, now an ex-judge, running up the middle of Main street with a tea-kettle in his hand, some emergency having arisen at the library fair. Probably many others feel as I do, that the best part of their education was derived from the Greenfield library, opening as it did to our youthful eagerness the best in standard literature. Miss Harriet Stone was for many years its librarian, succeeded by Miss Fanny Moody.
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The boarding schools kept by the Misses Stone and Rus- sell were for many years centres of refinement and culture here. But, after all is said, the best thing about old Green- field was the people themselves. As I recall many of them the heart glows with admiration, and gratitude, too. It was, indeed, a " liberal education " only to have known them. Name after name rises to memory. But the oldest inhabit- ant is proverbially garrulous, once started on the dangerous topic of the good old days, and it is quite time to desist from these random recollections.
MARY P. WELLS SMITH, In the Gazette and Courier.
YESTERDAYS IN GREENFIELD
The following is Judge Charles Allen's letter to the Gazette, giving some political reminiscences and describing an enter- tainment at the home of Geo. T. Davis when Thackeray sung :
The receipt of two requests for letters in connection with the celebration is slightly embarrassing, but I will try to meet them both. My regard for the Gazette and Courier is of long standing. When it was under Mr. Eastman's manage- ment, he brought it to a high standard. He was sometimes thought to be rather gruff in manner, but I found him to be not only a kindly but a liberal man, and very ready to grant reasonable favors. I always respected him. The character of the paper was maintained and improved by his associate and successor, Eben A. Hall, who made it one of the best jour- nals of its class, if not the very best in New England. From his sound judgment and wise direction he is well entitled to be called the " judicious " Hall, even as in Elizabethan times the same epitaph was bestowed upon Richard Hooker.
What shall I say of the Greenfield of to-day ? Everybody takes pride in its schools, its cemetery, its streets lined with fine trees and flanked with well-kept private grounds. The
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chief single treasure amongst its trees is the elm on the Hovey place. No old resident can ever look upon it without a thrill of admiration. Fifty years ago it had a rival-possibly a superior-in the elm, now perished, in the meadow of Cheapside, which was once measured by Alfred R. Field, with myself as engineer's helper. The dimensions, behold, are they not written in the chronicles of the " Autocrat of the Breakfast Table?" This noble tree I knew well, for, during one summer, I used to pass and repass it every day in walk- ing to and from the Deerfield academy. The schools in Greenfield I suppose were not as good then as they are now, and during a part of my three years at the Deerfield academy other Greenfield boys were there ; amongst them, Charles P. Stone, John Stone, George D. Wells and Henry B. Clapp, while from Colrain came Adams C. Deane, afterwards of Greenfield. George Fuller the famous artist was also there.
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