USA > Massachusetts > Franklin County > Greenfield > History of Greenfield : shire town of Franklin county, Massachusetts, Vol. II > Part 39
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I wonder how many Greenfield men there are who now re- member General Charles Devens' speech on the Fourth of July, 1854, delivered from the balcony of Barnard A. Newell's house in the Log Plain district, with the audience scattered about on the grass in front. I have never heard a more brilliant im- promptu address of rollicking fun from anybody on any oc -- casion. The gathering was partly of a picnic character, the house and grounds were thrown open and the festivities were graced by the presence of Mr. and Mrs. Newell, then at their best in personal appearance, and surely no fairer couple entered a Greenfield church on a summer's Sunday. The address was delivered with occasional rests, and was renewed from time to time as the listeners clamored for more. The substance of it was that the people were tired of ordinary partisan methods and machinations, and there had been a great popular uprising, and our fellow-citizen, Barnard A. Newell, a plain man, a practical farmer, who had been seen actually at work in the field hoeing corn by a credible witness who himself had caught the hoe from his fainting hand, had received the nomination for president of the United States ; and there was a detailed enumeration, largely founded on the occupations of those who were present, of the various important business interests which would rally to his support. After a rest, this was followed by the reading of imaginary letters from different prominent statesmen of opposite political views, all hailing the people's nomination with enthusiasm and promising to support it. Amongst these was one from Lewis Cass, and one from Charles Sumner with comical scraps of Latin introduced. There was in fact a certain verisimilitude in the style of them all. Before the speech ended the fame of the candidate had spread to foreign lands, as shown by a very Frenchy letter of congratulation from Alphonse Lamartine. Finally the speaker wound up with the sentiment,
" The Farmer of Log Plain, my boys; the Farmer of Log Plain ! We've drank his health full twenty times, and we'll drink it once again."
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This last statement need not be taken too literally. . It was poetical, and the number twenty was obviously hit upon from rhythmical necessity.
There are few, also, who now remember an entertainment at the house of George T. Davis on Christmas eve, 1855, when Mr. Thackeray was present. Toward the close of the evening Mr. Thackeray sang in rather a monotonous chant his song of " Little Billee," and also his song called " A Credo," beginning :
"For the sole edification Of this decent congregation, Goodly people by your grant, I will sing a holy chant,
I will sing a holy chant. If the ditty sound but oddly, 'Twas a father, wise and Godly, Sang it so long ago. Then sing as Martin Luther sang, As Doctor Martin Luther sang : ' Who loves not wine, woman and song, He is a fool his whole life long.'"
I rather think this had not then been published, and at any rate it seems to me that it was quite new to all who heard it.
Mr. Davis was a generous entertainer, and made Green- field pleasant to many notable persons. At his table have sat Emerson, Holmes, Lowell, Theodore Parker, Thomas Starr King, James Freeman Clarke, President C. C. Felton, E. P. Whipple, George W. Curtis, Samuel Bowles, Bayard Taylor, Dr. J. G. Holland, Rufus Choate, George Ashmun, Wendell Phillips and John A. Andrew. So many I think I can recall and just now forget many others. It was a good thing for Greenfield to have Mr. Davis live in it. But it is time to stop. When I get upon those days there is danger of running on indefinitely. " Claudite jam rivos, pueri, sat prata biberunt," which may be freely rendered, "Stop now the flow of talk, my boys; Greenfield has soaked enough."
CHARLES ALLEN.
Boston, May 26, 1903.
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GREENFIELD'S PUBLIC DEMONSTRATIONS
Every child of Greenfield can heartily join in the com- memoration of the 150th anniversary of incorporation.
It celebrates a century and a half of quiet advance from the usual small beginnings, with the prospect of still wider influence and greater population. It will probably not be long before Greenfield will join the group of Massachusetts cities. I greatly regret that my health will not permit me to make one in the happy scenes of the day.
The town has not been notable in the past for celebrations. It has not been forthputting ; it has been modest and retiring ; let it now speak up and tell its origin and history.
As the shire town of Franklin and the centre of a wide farming region we had many important gatherings in early days, but they were political conventions of both parties, with speeches out-of-doors, or regimental " musters" for the coun- try towns before the middle of the century, were very military. " Training " after the ear-piercing fife and spirit-stirring drum was a thrilling form of country dissipation.
Among the old-time fifers were Philo Temple, also a notable fiddler, and Wood and Eddy. Among the " snare " drummers were Mann and Chandler ; the last was a son of the life-long minister at Nash's mills.
There was a bass drummer of great majesty of deportment, whose rotund figure increased the importance of his drum. This man varied his occupation by lecturing on phreno-magne- tism, assisted by a young cutlery grinder, who had the power of tumbling into trances and proving the truth of phrenology by acting out the characters indicated by the " bumps " when they were touched by the finger of the professor. " Combative- ness " was the most exciting of these demonstrations, though " veneration " was more amusing.
Of course there was a medical money value to these gifts and surprising revelations of disturbed interiors, for the magnetized confederate had the power, since transferred to
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the X-ray, of seeing through people ; the professor, having such direct information, could advise treatment without guess- ing, which gave him an enormous advantage over the " regular " practitioners. I believe it was not uncommon to hear that the heart and liver were on the wrong side of the body and that the kidneys had floated round to the front. Surgery was then too timid to prove the contrary. These irregular prac- tices raised the ire of Dr. Stone and the elder Dr. Deane, who had a close trust and medical trades' union ; they warmly de- nounced all mesmerists, Thompsonians, water curers and other innovators and poachers on the domain of pure science. Phrenology with " examinations of the head," was a common subject of lectures. Fowler and Wells were the great men in this "science." These things have passed by, but they will all come up again in some modified or exaggerated form before the end of the century.
Summer conventions were usually held in Pine grove, a part of the town whose beauty has been ruined by improve- ments. Pierce's grove was also used. I believe it is still a charming place, but not as rural as when it was the annual resort of wild pigeons. Fourth of July was celebrated on and about the present common, as more convenient to the taverns. It gave space for the tent where oysters, brought in kegs by the slow conveyance of the times, were stewed in large kettles in mid-summer. " Father Antic the law," had not yet begun to regulate the public appetite, and ptomain poisoning had not been discovered.
The liberty pole stood on Main street in front of the common. One year, in the forties, it was thought best to examine the soundness of the upper pole. A carpenter, who was always ready for any hazardous work, ascended to the top of the mast, and standing on the narrow stage, began some reckless operation that ended in a cracking and swaying of the upper pole, which fell its length into the thronged street. The old carpenter came down with it, breaking his neck.
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This was apparent without a doctor's opinion, for his face could be turned to his back. It was wisely concluded to save time by having him shaved of a three or four days' beard before taking him home. A door was procured and he was borne to Brockway's barber shop, which was on the south side of the street next to Pierce's tin shop, and under Miss Chloe Filly's millinery emporium. Here standing in the door, we awe-struck boys watched Brock- way shave the large, old-fashioned face, whose usual red- ness had so suddenly faded to the ashy hue of death.
Miss Filly had a wonderful sign. It was a fac-simile of a fashionable bonnet with bows, streamers and flowers, all done in tin. This work of art was executed at Pierce's shop. It was painted by "Count" Mark, whose sign painting was remarkably good.
At the northwest end of the common was the town pump, a time and weather-scarred monument standing on a solid timber platform over a large well. Here the farmers from the hills refreshed their stout oxen that patiently stood in the street with loads of wood, hay or other produce. Col. Wright's, afterwards Maj. Keith's, tavern was the farmers' resort. Military titles were highly valued, and such minor honors as lieutenant and ensign may be noticed on old gravestones. The editor of the Gazette and Courier was a colonel. I have a document containing the names of three leading citizens in 1801, Col. Daniel Wells, Capt. Isaac Newton and Major John Russell. Such citizens shaved their faces every morning. Few men wore any sign of whiskers, and no one wore a moustache. The hair was worn longer than now by all young men ; many old men brushed their hair so that it stood up as in the portraits of Gen. Jackson ; some still combed it back and had it braided in a cue, which was wound and tied with black ribbon, and stuck out over the coat collar. The fashion was rapidly going out in my boyhood, though my grandfather never gave it up. Wigs
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were worn more than they are now by men, sometimes even to cover gray hair.
Professional and well-to-do men wore what we now call the dress coats of black cloth. On dress occasions or at evening parties the younger men wore blue dress coats with gilt but- tons. I remember seeing my father dressed in one of these coats, of rather light blue, with nankeen waistcoat and panta- loons strapped under patent leather " pumps." He wore a ruffled shirt and a heavy, white " neckcloth," the tie of which was concealed. This was in daylight in the late summer, probably, for it was the occasion of the Whig convention of 1840. He was then forty-three years old.
I recall a figure of about that period, a very handsome young man, his face full of vivacity and engaging expression, who was dressed in a light blue "swallow-tail," with gilt but- tons, a white waistcoat and duck pantaloons strapped under patent leather boots. His hat was a Leghorn straw. He is now a venerable grandfather, and I wonder what he would say if he saw one of his descendants thus arrayed !
A young man bare-headed, in a golf suit and sweater would have been followed by a mob in 1845. Boys had to be dressed very nearly alike; any variation met with adverse criticism which took the form of nick-names and possibly rough usage. Lord Fauntelroys were not tolerated in that early democracy. JOHN E. RUSSELL.
RECOLLECTIONS OF SAMUEL O. LAMB
Mr. Lamb came to Greenfield from Charlemont in 1843, and entered Whiting Griswold's law office. His lectures at the Girl's Club, as reported by the Gazette and Courier, follow.
Mr. Lamb began his first lecture by referring to the changes that had taken place in the sixty years of his residence in Greenfield. At that time. the population was but 2,000; now it is over 8,000. Then the town voted but $1,200 for its schools ; to-day it votes $40,000. The total appropriation in
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those days was but about $3,000 ; to-day it is $95,000. Taxes now are probably paid with as little complaint as in the earlier days.
Mr. Lamb spoke of the houses that were standing in Green- field 60 years ago, and begun with Main street at the west end. As far as he could remember, there was at that time no building between the Green river bridge and B. B. Noyes' house. On the site of that house there was a dwelling, large, old-fashioned and square in shape, and with a chimney in the centre. That house belonged to Samuel Wells, of a well known family. There is a tradition that that house was a way-station on the underground railway that brought so many negroes from slavery to freedom. The residents were at one time involved in some trouble for harboring slaves.
" From that house up to the house where Mr. Henry E. Goodell now lives there was no dwelling. The property be- longed to the Isaac Newton estate and was rented for farm purposes. On the site of the Goodell house was the George W. Mark place. Mr. Mark was a noted man, by profession sign and house painter, and in those lines as talented an artist as ever lived in Greenfield. But he aspired to be a painter in more artistic directions. His house was once a part of the old tavern that stood where the Mansion House now is. That part of the house used to be employed for singing schools and dancing schools and the like. In the rear of the house was an unpretentious building called Mark's gallery, in which were displayed specimens from his artistic hand. The place was a centre of attraction to visitors from far and near, who used often to ask each other if they had been to Mark's gal- lery. Mark had a thorough appreciation of the principles of his art, but when he came to apply them he seemed to be al- together lacking in judgment. His pictures are now in the hands of Judge Franklin G. Fessenden, and where exhibited last year at the Old Home week loan collection. One of them, representing the west end of Main street in a snow-
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storm, seemed to me to present a fair view of Greenfield as it was at that time in such circumstances. The house next be- longed to Misses Lucy and Eunice Billings, grand-daughters of Rev. Edward Billings, first settled minister at the Congrega- tional Church, who was here from 1754 until his death. These ladies by intelligence and industry and economy worked successfully at the tailor's trade, and the garments they made must have formed a display equal to that of the garments shown at the funeral of Dorcas of old. They were interested in the church, in society, and in missions, to an advanced age. At their death the house descended to Miss Sarah P. Smead, and the house was lately sold and removed, and the Holy Trinity rectory now stands on that site.
Next came the house of Peter T. Sprague, near the site of Holy Trinity Church. Sprague was a unique character. I never have seen a man who resembled him in personal ap- pearance or tone and character of mind. He was odd to ec- centricity. I was for some time his tenant, and I found him methodical and exact. He was the author of many quaint and original sayings. There was one remark of his which was used so frequently that it became a byword. He would use it at the close of any long discussion, saying " Well, there's a thousand things to everything, and you can't always tell." He was a dealer in shoes, and used to give some whimsical expressions of his personality in the newspaper advertisements of the day. He was a man of money, and had enough to be able to accommodate the many who in those days were look- ing for small loans. That was a time when banks did not exist, and people depended upon their neighbors for loans. When a man came in whom he did not want to accommodate, and yet whom he did not want to turn away, Sprague, who called one of his pockets " this world," would slap that pocket with his hand and say, "I'd be glad to accommodate you, but there's not a dollar in this world that I can lay my hands upon."
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This side of Sprague's house a ravine came up through the bluff, and the end of this ravine came to the highway, and there was only a footpath on which to cross. The place was not well taken care of. There was a plank there for the ac- commodation of pedestrians. When the railroad was built the house now the Aiken place stood near where the arch now is and was occupied by Col. Spencer Root, well known for his ability and high position in the business and social com- munity. The house was purchased by Judge David Aiken, and placed on its present. site, where he lived until his death.
Joseph Severance's place came next. He had a hat store. He was a fine-appearing man, straight, erect and would attract attention anywhere by his carriage. He made his best appear- ance on horse-back, as he was an accomplished rider. He always used to have a good horse. I remember how his gray horse looked as its master rode him up the street. The beast looked as if he knew that he had a man on his back, as if he were proud of it. He used to remind me of a picture of the Duke of Wellington and his favorite iron horse. His shop was near the site of the house of Dr. Charles L. Fisk.
Near-by was a low one-story house occupied by David Willard and his interesting family of two or three sons and two or three daughters. He was a gentleman of the finest sensibilities, was well versed in the English classics, and had as fine a sense of propriety in the use of the English language as anyone I ever met. He was an enthusiastic admirer of nature. He loved the birds ; knew the note of every bird that flew. That house was moved into the section between the railroad and Wells street.
Near-by stood a two-story building, the lower story oc- cupied by a printing office, and I think the Democratic paper was printed there for a time. The house was moved up Fed- eral street, and now forms a part, I think, of the house oc- cupied by J. H. Lamb.
This side stood the fine residence of Asher Spencer, one of
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the solid men of Greenfield, largely interested in the business matters of the town. He was interested in some of the lines of stages that touched Greenfield. His house stood on the present site of the town hall, and was moved to Congress street, where it now is the third on the right .*
Next came a barber's shop kept by Hezekiah Green, a negro, who made money at his trade which he lost by selling liquor illegally. The next building was on Arms' corner. It was a two-story wooden structure, with pillars, and with its end facing the east. It was occupied as a store by Jones and Page. It stood there until a few years ago, when it was re- moved to the corner of Main and Chapman street, by George A. Arms. It was a famous building, and there George T. Davis had his law office for a time.
Next came the Newton place, a fine residence, with a yard full of bushes and flowers. Just inside the fence was a well of fine water. Many a time I have gone to that well to get water. When the courthouse was built, the house was re- moved to the rear, where it now stands.
The Hollister house was then a ladies' school. The build- ing had extensions to the north and the west to accommodate the pupils. One of these was torn down by Mr. Hollister, and one was moved into Newton place, and part of it was, I think, formerly occupied by the Girls' club. Reverend L. L. Langstroth was teacher there. He was preceded by Mr. Jones. The school was well attended and popular.
Clay hill was then a quagmire, a hard road to keep in re- pair. I have seen a horse settle into the mud there up to his belly, and he had to be pulled out by a gang of men. Near the site of the Union house stood the old jail. When the new jail was built, now occupied by Mr. Emil Weissbrod's house and factory, some of the old stones were moved from this jail, and were placed in the bank wall in front of that
* At the time of its removal it belonged to Jones, Mitchell & Co. [Ed.]
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place. The jailer was David N. Carpenter, who was raised in Leyden, and who had remarkable ability, although he had no advantages of education. He was deputy sheriff and postmaster from 1845 to 1861, and a democrat well known throughout the state. He was once, I think, a delegate to the democratic national convention. He had great strength of character and a fine presence.
Opposite the jail was a gambrel roof house of the type com- mon at that time. It was a historic house, and once stood where Mr. George L. Jewett's house on Main street now is, only farther back from the road. It was moved to the site opposite the Union house by John K. Ortt, a popular shoe dealer, who had a store in the Hovey block. When the rail- road grounds expanded, the house was moved down on Deer- field street, where it now stands, looking much as it did then.
William Wilson was at that time one of the well known business men. He lived in a house nearly on the site of the Hotel Albert, and his house was later moved up Olive street, where it is now used as a tenement house. Next on Clay hill came a blacksmith shop kept by David Long, an enter -ยท prising blacksmith. Miles Mitchell, a jeweler, had a shop about on the present site of the Franklin house. Near by was another low building, where lived. Charles Sandford. There I boarded for some time after coming from Charle- mont, as Mrs. Sandford came from that town. Then came the building that had the law office of Judge Richard E. New- comb, and his brother, Horatio G. Newcomb.
Then came Dexter Marsh's house. He was one of the best known men in Greenfield. He had no education of the schools, but he had a fine mind, and was studious in habits and character. He was closely identified with the study of the bird tracks near Turners Falls, in which he took a great interest, and thereby became a member of various scientific societies in this country and abroad. He collected a cabinet
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of such curiosities that was visited by people from all around, and to see which he generally charged a little admission. It was a great pity that this cabinet was not kept for Greenfield. Marsh was a laborer, made gardens, sawed wood, and was jan- itor of the Second Congregational Church. He died early. The cabinet was sold.
Near the present site of Richard O'Hara's store there used to be a flight of stone steps instead of an evenly graded side- walk. The building occupied by the Gazette and Courier was the old courthouse from 1812 to 1848. R. E. New- comb was judge of Probate, George Grinnell was register, Henry Chapman was clerk of courts and Almon Brainard was register of deeds.
The brick building now occupied by Allen's Sons included, besides the Allen & Root store, the store of T. O. Sparhawk, and Lewis Merriam's book store. Mr. Merriam kept an ex- cellent book store sixty years ago. It is matter for some won- der that at that time Greenfield had two good book stores, for Col. Ansel Phelps also kept one. Any book published could be gotten at Merriam's store in a few days. Merriam was a good business man. He came from Brookfield, and was post- master of Greenfield from 1861 until his health failed.
Over the book store the Gazette and Courier was then printed by Phelps and Eastman. S. S. Eastman was for many years the managing man of the paper, and possessed fine bus- iness ability. He gave the Gazette and Courier the high character it has ever since maintained. He was an ardent politician, severe against the democrats and loco-focos, but a good neighbor and good citizen. Though we were on different sides of the political fence I respected him highly. The history of that paper would be a very interesting study.
Allen's store was the same as now, except that it had then two stories, with a steep ridge running north and south. The firm of Allen & Root was known as synonymous of honor and fair dealing. The Pierce block was about as now. . A
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drug store was kept where B. F. Webster's market now is by Reed and Seymour. Mr. Reed was the son of Samuel H. Reed. Dr. L. D. Seymour was a physician. The store was a favorite resort for the younger element, as both the proprie- tors were young men. At about that time High street was opened and Mr. Henry W. Clapp had sold off a number of lots. Dr. Seymour bought the lot where now the house of James Deane is. Some one ridiculed him for taking a lot so far out, asking him why he did not go to Gill to buy a lot. The livery stable building was about as now. Where the Odd Fellows' building is was a cabinet maker's shop, kept by Miles & Lyons, both good workmen. On the site of the Masonic building was a house owned by Miss Charlotte Wil- lard that has been torn down and scattered. Passing by the Unitarian Church, this building came next .* Next came a low house owned by Samuel Pinks. Next was the Metho- dist Church, where the Wm. W. Davenport house now is. I remember coming to Greenfield once before 1840 to attend a meeting in that Methodist Church, conducted by the Aboli- tionists. Rev. Orange Scott spoke strongly, but a great im- pression was made on my mind by the remarks of Henry B. Stanton, whose enthusiasm made an impression on me that time has not effaced. Stanton became an associate of Rufus Choate. The Methodist Church was moved to the lot be- tween the Arms block and the Cohn block, on Main street, and was changed over by Wendell T. Davis into a hall for dancing, with a spring floor.
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