USA > Massachusetts > Middlesex County > History of Middlesex County, Massachusetts : containing carefully prepared histories of every city and town in the county, Vol. I > Part 41
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1 This sketch of Bedford is condensed from the author's mate- rials for a larger history now in course of preparation. - ED.
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mile towards Boston, called Hill's Crossing. Near this depot quite a village is springing up. Just one mile west another depot was built, called Waverley, about which a large village has been built, having a store, post-office, a handsome brick school-house, and a meeting-house. A branch of the same railroad passes from Waltham through the southeast part of Belmont, giving another depot, called Mount Auburn, about which another large village has risen. It lies between Mount Auburn Cemetery and Fresh Pond, having a post-office, sev- eral stores, a school-house, a large conservatory, marble-yard, and meeting-house. Much the largest village is about the central depot, where there is a meeting-house, store, post-office, high school, and grammar and intermediate school-houses. All the villages are in a thriving condition. Many of the houses are very elegant and costly. There are no manufactories in the town.
In shape, the town is somewhat like an hour- glass, the two ranges of hills making the frame, the valley easterly the bottom, resting on Spy Pond (in Arlington), Little Spy Pond, and a part of Fresh Pond, which are in this town, with a marshy meadow between them. The contracted part, near the cen- tral depot, is formed by a rocky spur of Wellington Hill and a spur from Meeting-House Hill, between which is a deep gorge, made by a stream called Hassam's Brook, having just room enough for itself and the Fitchburg Railroad. Then it expands into a meadow and sandy plain for the upper portion.
In the westerly corner of the town is an exten- sive meadow, most of which is in Waltham and Lexington, and anciently called Rock Meadow. It was evidently a lake during the glacial period, but was drained by cutting a channel down a rocky gorge, in which now flows a rapid stream, called Beaver Brook. It has been called Beaver Meadow by modern residents, because they have discovered the remains of a beaver-dam, showing that these industrious and sagacious animals had enjoyed a happy home there before they were disturbed by the early settlers. This brook is supplied by the watershed of the surrounding hills and numerous springs in and about the meadow. It runs south- east about half a mile, making the dividing line between this town and Waltham, then turns south- west and empties into Charles River. On this stream Thomas Agar built a fulling-mill in 1662, and in 1690 Thomas Rider built a corn-mill near it ; but both have gone to decay, in consequence of the decrease of water. The eastern valley of
the town is drained by three brooks. Hlassam's Brook, taking its rise in the meadows near Waver- ley village, runs east through the gorge with the railroad, and soon receives two other brooks, Haslett's and Frost's, coming down from Welling- ton Hill, when, passing entirely through the town, it unites with Menotomy River (now called Alewife Brook), which drains all three of the ponds men- tioned into Mystic River.
Agriculture is the principal business of the town. Most of the inhabitants are wealthy and thriving farmers, cultivating all kinds of fruit and vegetables for the city of Boston. They manage business in the most skilful and profitable manner, in hotbeds under glass, during the winter months, in order to compete with the products of Southern climates, which rapid transportation enables Southern plant- ers to put into Boston market in advance of our seasons. Some farmers are engaged producing milk for the city, and some in raising fancy stock.
While some of the farmers are raising lettuce, dandelions, and spinach in the month of January, others are cutting and storing vast quantities of ice from the ponds, for home use and exportation to Southern climates. For this great business our ice-merchants are indebted to the genius and enterprise of Frederick Tudor, who in the year 1805 was the first to conceive and demonstrate the practicability of shipping ice to equatorial cli- mates.
When the town was first incorporated there was only one religious society, called the First Congre- gational Society, principally supported by Unita- rians, and under the pastoral charge of Rev. Amos Smith, A. M., who was installed October 28, 1857. A new meeting-house had been built, and dedicated the same year. He continued with them about sixteen years, and resigned March, 1872. In Oc- tober, 1873, the society installed Rev. Harvey Bates, who resigned September 18, 1876. Soon after, March 28, 1877, Rev. Ivory Waterhouse was installed, who still continues the pastor.
A meeting-house was built in the village of Waverley, and dedicated January 13, 1870, by the Orthodox society, and Rev. J. W. Turner was in- stalled. After his resignation, April 26, 1873, Rev. J. W. Ewell was installed, December 10, 1874, and resigned March 6, 1878. Rev. W. H. Teel was then installed, July 3, 1878, and still con- tinues with the society. These religions societies have Sabbath schools, with libraries. In the East Village, near Mt. Auburn, the residents, being
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mostly Irish Catholics, have erected a small chapel just over the border, in Watertown. This town makes liberal appropriations for the support of education. The graduated plan of the state is adopted. There are four grammar and seven intermediate and primary schools, and a high sehool.
Six years ago the town established a public library, which now contains 3,200 volumes; amount of annual appropriation $ 700, which, with occa- sional donations by individuals, will form a respec- table library in a few years.
The number of inhabitants at this time (1879) is about 2,400. It is worthy of record, that most of the lands in the three portions taken from the old towns to make Belmont are still held and occupied by the descendants of the original owners or grantees at the first settlement of those towns.
It appears in the histories of these towns that Watertown made the final division of land among the proprietors in the year 1636, and Cambridge in 1685. Some grantees bought out others in order to enlarge their domain, and by thrifty man- agement held their lands for their heirs. Some- times large estates were divided among them; some- times one son would take the whole, paying off other heirs, and thus, by a sort of feudal tenure, have been lords of the soil for six or seven generations.
All that part taken from Waltham was a grant to Dr. Philip Shattuck, son of William of Water- town, one of the first settlers in 1630, Waltham being then part of Watertown. He was a distin- guished physician, and prominent in the affairs of the town. He was frequently appointed to offiees of trust and responsibility.
Lambert, progenitor of the Chenery family, first settled in Dedham, but soon removed to Water- town. His descendants of the fifth generation now occupy the estate bought of William Shattuek, a grantee, by his son John. The latter was killed by Indians in the town of Northfield.
A solitary heir, of the sixth generation from Hugh Clarke, now occupies a portion of his grant. One family of Livermores, of the sixth generation from John, are still tilling the soil of their ancestor. Several families of Brights, of the sixth generation from Deacon Henry Bright, are still cultivating tlie soil of his broad aeres. He was owner of large tracts by purchase and by grants. A farm oecu- pied by Samuel Barnard was granted to his an- cestor John, a proprietor in 1634. One of that family, by the name of Samuel, was one of the
Boston " Tea Boys," and a major in the Revolu- tionary army. Ilis cousin Jonas was also said to beone of the "Tea Boys." Several families of Stones, of the seventh and eighth generation from Deacon Simon Stone, are enjoying the fruits of lands purchased by their ancestor Moses.
On the territory taken from Arlington, formerly called Menotomy, and a part of Cambridge, are now living the descendants of the first settlers of about 1685. They were the Wellingtons, descendants of Roger of Watertown, Lockes, descendants of Wil- liam of Woburn, Hills, from Abraham of Charles- town, Frosts, from Edmund of Cambridge, Preu- tices, from Henry of Cambridge, Richardsons, from Edward of Woburn, Perrys, from James of Charles- town, Fillebrowns, from Thomas of Cambridge.
Many individuals of all the sections have been prominent for ability and sound judgment, being frequently elected by their fellow-citizens to offiees of trust in town affairs, to the General Court, and other responsible positions. Nor were they want- ing in courage and patriotism in times of peril with the hostile Indians, or to risk their lives and for- tunes in the Revolutionary times. In our late eivil war this town furnished its quota of soldiers, fifty being citizens and twenty-three substitutes.
Among the early settlers Jeduthun Wellington, of the fifth generation from Roger, was quite con- spicuous in this thinly settled region. He was considered a kind of oracle, being consulted about town affairs and in legal matters. He was often ealled upon to draw legal documents, being a magistrate. He was seleetman for many years, and elected to the General Court from 1780 to 1806. He was a colonel of militia, and a man of great energy and strong will.
But the Hill family furnished the most distin- guished character. Isaae Hill was the son of Abraham, and of the sixth generation, born April 6, 1789, in that part of Arlington set off to Belmont. He was rendered unfit for agricultural labor by lameness, caused (tradition says) by his father having thrown him downstairs, when a small boy, in a fit of insanity, to which he was occasionally subject. At fourteen he was apprenticed to the Amherst (N. H.) Cabinet. He went to Concord in 1809, purchased the American Patriot, changed the name to New Hampshire Patriot, and made it the organ of the then Republican party. It was supported by the ablest men of the party, and had a great influence for twenty years. In 1828, after filling various posts in the New Hampshire legis-
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HISTORY OF MIDDLESEX COUNTY.
lature, he failed of an election to the United States Senate. In 1829 President Jackson appointed him Second Comptroller of the United States Treasury. lle was elected United States Senator 1830 to 1836, and Governor of New Hampshire 1836 to 1839. Ile was Sub-Treasurer at Boston 1810 to 1811, and for a long time Pension Agent.
In 1840, with his two oldest sons, he established Hill's New Hampshire Patriot, which they pub- lished till 1847. He also published the Farmers' Monthly Visitor during the last fifteen years of his life. He died at Washington, D. C., March 20, 1851, aged sixty-three.
BILLERICA.
BY FREDERICK P. HILL.
HE little colony first established by the Puritan fathers at Sa- lem, within ten years after the arrival of Governor Winthrop and his company had stretched itself along the shore to the northward, had touched hands with its sister colony of Ply- mouth, and, finding the im- mediate vicinity of the. coast insufficient for the wants of its increasing popula- tion, had begun settlements on the frontier, at Con- cord, Sudbury, and Woburn.
The country in the vicinity of the Shawshine River was prospected as early as the year 1637 by order of the General Court; and five years later 1 a grant was made to the town of Cambridge, of " all the land upon Shawshin River, and between that and Concord River, and between that and Merrimack River, soe that they erect a village there within five years, and soe as that it shall not ex- tend to prejudice Charlestown village or ye village at Cochittuate nor ye farmes formerly granted to the now govenour of 1,260 acres, and to Thomas Dudley Esq". 1,500 acres, and 3,000 acres to Mrs. Winthrop."
Little effort was made to establish the desired settlement, and in the following year the court made an unconditional grant to Cambridge of the described territory, excepting only such lands as had previously been given to "the artilary com- pany or others, provided the church and present Elders continne at Cambridge; " but it was not until some seven years later that the beautiful meadows and wooded hill-tops which were the
1 This renewed a grant of 1641 of similar tenor. - ED.
portion of Billerica began to come under the do- minion of the settler's scythe and axe.
The country thus granted was called Shaw- shine, - said to signify meandering, - from the stream so named by the aborigines in describing its course.
It is evident, however, that the pioneers preferred the more familiar, homelike name of Billerica, in remembrance of the old town in Essex, Eng- land, whence some of them are believed to have come ; for in 1650 reference was made by residents of Woburn to lands " on the east side of Billerica," and a petition from the inhabitants to the General Court in 1654, asking for a further grant of land, especially requested that the settlement might bear the name of " Billericay."
From this time the growth of the infant settle- ment was assured. The inhabitants were so far increased in number as to form a body politic, and adopt suitable measures for their government and the care of life and property. The earliest records of the town in existence bear date from this year, and evince by their simple and vigorous style, their wise and careful apportionment of public duties, and their regard for civil and religious rights, the sterling character of the men who founded this ancient town of Billerica.
In 1655 the inhabitants again petitioned the General Court, " requesting Immunities and free- dome from all publick rates and charges at Cam- bridg," and that the land might belong entirely to them, for "ye better encouragment and carry- ing on publick charges that will necessaraly there fall out." An agreement was made between the town of Cambridge and the progressive inhabitants of the young settlement, and on the 29th of May,
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1655, the court confirmed the arrangement and granted the petitioners' request.
The names of those who signed the proposi- tions on the part of the new town were "Ralph Hill, Sen"., Willm ffrench, John Sternes, Willm pattin, george ffarley, Ralph Hill, Jur., John Croe, James Parker, John Parker, Jonathan Danforth, Henery Jeifts, Willm Chamberlin and Robert Parker," who were "the present inhabitants."
The territory thus granted was of great size, almost unexplored, surrounded by unknown and treacherous savages, made up of rocky hills, rank swamps, verdant meadows, rippling brooks, and slowly winding streams.
Additional grants were made to the town in 1656 of lands on the Concord River, known as the " Blood Farms," and of eight thousand acres lying at Natticott on the Merrimack. This last large tract of land was soon after sold to William Brenton, and the proceeds used to purchase the land in town owned by the non-residents.
The years immediately succeeding the incorpora- tion the records show to be full of action. Town orders were passed regulating the division of lands, according equitable privileges on common property, fixing the rates for town and county taxes, pre- scribing the limitations and rights of those who wished to become inhabitants, laying out the high- ways, settling minor questions of where the cattle should be driven to feed, and ordering how the swine should be " yoaked and rung."
Particular care was given to prepare the way for the establishment of a church and ministry. It was thought needful to protect their dearly bought privilege of freedom in state and religion, and it was agreed that " What person or persons soever propounde themselves to be granted amongste us to Prake of the privilidge of the comans divisions, if not knowne to us he or they shall bringe with them a sertificate from the place from whence they come such a testamoney as Shall be Satisfactory to of town or Selecte p'sons." This right to ad- mit or reject a proposed inhabitant was jealously - guarded for more than a century. The right of suffrage was also strictly cared for, and it was ordered that any person who should presume to give his voice or his vote in " ordering of herds, schooles, or in ye dispose of any of or towne previ- lidges," if he were not qualified, should be subject to a fine of five shillings.
Soon after the beginning of the settlement the inhabitants bought of Thomas Dudley, their hon-
ored ex-governor, the land which had been given him by the General Court, consisting of fifteen hundred acres; and this tract was taken as a basis, or measure, to reckon from in the distribution of meadows, woodlands, and other rights.
No person was permitted to take from the com- mon land more than one twelfth part of this farm, to consist of one hundred and thirteen acres of upland and twelve of meadow ; and only such per- sons as owned a share or less were termed proprie- tors with the right to general distribution. It was agreed, also, that the land owned by any inhabitant should not be sold or given away, even to his cliil- dren, without the consent of the town ; thus more perfectly to secure the peace and safety of their little community. Besides the grants mentioned there had been given, before the settlement, exten- sive farms to Harvard College, the church of Cam- bridge, Mr. Richard Daniel, Mr. Thomas Oakes, and other prominent men of the time.
It was in the vicinity of these farms, on the bor- ders of the pleasant Shawshine, that the first settlers had erected their simple homes. But now, in prop- erly laying ont the town, the high land overlooking the placid waters of the Concord - in the Indian, Musketaquid, or river of the grass-ground - was chosen, and time has proved the wisdom of the selection. Billerica then was of great size, includ- ing within its bounds the present town of Tewks- bury, portions of Bedford and Carlisle, and that part of Lowell called Belvidere; yet the " township," so distinguished for the reservation of home-lots, was of comparatively small extent. It was laid out from the north line of Mr. Dudley's farm, the boundary of which is still known by the name of Churnstaff Lane, and followed the course of the Concord about one mile, the river forming its western boundary. The common land spread beyond its northern and eastern limits, there being about one square mile in the home municipality.
.The principal surveyor was Jonathan Danforth, although Ralph Hill, Sr., George Farley, and oth- ers occasionally made surveys. Danforth was one of the esteemed fathers of the town, a man of emi- nent ability, of rare and sincere Christianity. To him, perhaps more than to any other, was the town indebted in those early days for wise and discrimi- natiug judgment and devotion to its affairs.
The town lots having been divided and home- steads built, the choice of a minister was the next important matter to be decided. The inhabitants, I in 1658, made provision for building a house for
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the minister, and suitable allotments of land, both for the ministry as glebe, and as a gift in settle- ment, were carefully reserved. The house was built under the direction of John Parker, one of the most honored citizens, and among the charges fifteen shillings were paid " to henry Jefts for briks 300 for ye minister's Chimley."
The choice of a minister fell upon the Rev. Sam- uel Whiting, a young man fresh from Harvard College, cultured, pious, and animated with the divine spirit of liberty. The invitation to Mr. Whiting was ehcerfully accepted, and an agreement was made between the freemen, nineteen in num- her, and himself to settle him with them. A liberal arrangement was made for his support, -£ 40for the first two years, £50 for the second two, £60 for the third; and they further promised "to better his maintenance as the Lord should better the estates of his people." This was no idle promise, for the next year it was "agreed by the major prt of the Towne that Mr. Whiting shall have £50 for this yere for his maintenance and caring down corne and makinge a well and hovill for his catell : which is 10 £ more than or agreement."
In the autumn of that year he came to live among them, and continued in his saered office be- loved and revered by all, until his decease, a period of over fifty years.
During the first few months it is supposed that the preaching was in private houses ; but in 1659 the inhabitants agreed " that there shall be a meet- inge hous built : this winter follinge : thirty foote Longe: and : twenty and foure foot wide: and twelve foot hige : and the studs to be 3 foot asunder : the sids and eands shall be covered wth bords : and the Roof wth thateh." The location selected was a little east of the present edifice of this venerable parish, the land having once been granted to Cap- tain Daniel Gookin, superintendent of the Indians, but exchanged by him for a farm in the southern part of the town. The meeting-house was built, therefore, in the winter of 1660, but it was not until the 27th of April, 1663, that the church was regularly organized, " when ye Counsell of Elders and messingers from other churches " were present, and not until November 11, nearly seven months later, that the ceremony of ordination was per- formed, and the pastor solemnly installed after the simple but impressive manner of the Puritan faith.
A decade had passed since the morning grected the smoke from the first hearth-places in the valleys of the Shawshine and Concord, and the records
give evidence that the residents had made many improvements in eivil and religious affairs. Every freeman was made to feel his personal responsibility in the conduct of business, and a penalty of one shilling was ordered for non-attendanee at each town-meeting, which was set for the " first second day " of every month, "to begin : about the sunn one our and a halfe hy." In 1657 John Parker had been "aprooved Clarke of ye Writts." The next year William Tay was chosen town-clerk; and in the succeeding year Jonathan Danforth was ordered to keep the town's books. He continued for ahout twenty years to perform the duties of clerk, greatly to the advantage of all who have fol- lowed him in that office. Although it is probable that selectmen, or " townsmen," as they were fre- quently ealled, were chosen prior to 1660, no record of the fact is extant until that year, when John Parker, Lieutenant William French, Ralph Hill, Sr., Thomas Foster, and Jonathan Danforthi were " eho- sen Selectmen for ye yere inseuinge."
In the course of the next year the difficult ques- tion of seating the people in the meeting-house was settled, and it was agreed that "ye Towne doe apoynt Left. Willm ffrench : and John Parker, Ralph Hill, senr., and William Tay to sitt in ye Deacons Seate and also ye Towne doe apoynte and impower thease four men joyned wth Mr. Whitinge to apoynt ye reste of ye inhabitantes and proprietors, there severall places where they shall sitt in ye meetinge house acordinge to there best disereteans." The method followed far into the next century was to seat according to age and the amount of rates paid, giving to age the preference.
With that regard for the morals of their children characteristic of the Puritans, the fathers of the town ordered " yt Leiftenet Willm ffrench : and Ralph Hill, sen'., doe take care and examin the sevr" families in or town, whether : there childern and Servantes, are, Taught : in ye prieepts, of : relidi- one in readinge and Lerninge there Catieise acord- ing to ye law of ye euntry," - and from time to time this injunetion was repeated.
Very soon after the first locating a military company was organized, of which all able-bodied men between the ages of sixteen and sixty were members. In 1660 " Simon Burd : was sworne: Clarke of o" Trayne bande, by Captin Gookin," and a slight fine was imposed for "not trayning" upon persons who were absent on the regular field days. The higher officers were appointed by the General Court, and it was considered a great
PUBLIC LIBRARY
Assault on Billerica.
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honor to receive a commission ; but the subordinate officers were usually elected by the towns : thus, in 1661 " Thomas Foster was chosen Eldest Cor- porall, George ffarley, corporall, Samuell Kempe Drumer and Willm Hamlitt Clarke," of the com- pany here. The titles, once given, were generally borne through life. The officers wore swords, and carried partisans, sometimes known as leading- staves. The sergeants bore halberds, and the com- mon soldiers muskets with matchlocks, besides a pair of bandoleers, or powder-pouches, for each sol- dier. In nearly all trainbands there were some pikemen, who were the tallest men in the company. They carried pikes, the handles of which were of wood ten feet in length, and defensive armor was worn by them, ordinarily consisting of " a sufficient corselet, buff coat, or quilted coat."
The records of the town in the ten years which had passed show that the Concord and Shawshine rivers had been well arched with substantial bridges; that known as the "Great Bridge " over the Con- cord having first been built near the "Fordway " previous to 1658. It was removed farther up the stream a few years after, and again, at a later period still, to its present site. Saw and grist mills were very early built, not only on both rivers, but on various small brooks in different parts of the town. To guard the heavy slumbers of the tired workers iu the village, a watch was ordered to patrol nightly whenever there seemed to be danger of invasion from the dreaded savages.
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