History of Norfolk County, Massachusetts, with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men, Part 165

Author: Hurd, D. Hamilton (Duane Hamilton) ed
Publication date: 1884
Publisher: Philadelphia, J. W. Lewis & Co.
Number of Pages: 1534

USA > Massachusetts > Norfolk County > History of Norfolk County, Massachusetts, with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men > Part 165

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White estate, is the residence and grounds of Walter C. Cabot, which are quite extensive.

Next in order is Hyde's Hill, on the southerly side of Newton and nearly opposite Clyde Street. This | seen some of the other hills of the town, also famous hill is occupied as a farm by William J. Hyde, and is three hundred and nine feet above high-water mark.

The third highest hill is on the westerly side of South Street, nearly opposite Grove Street, near the standpipe of the Brookline Water-Works, which is three hundred and six feet in height.

From this last-named point, running northwest and southeast westerly of Newton Street, is a long range of highland called Walnut Hill, or Denny's Hill, with an average height of two hundred and eighty-three feet.

Hill, but which has lately been known by the name of Goddard Heights. This land has been owned in the Goddard family for a long time, hence the name. Abijah W. Goddard is the present proprietor.

We next come to Corey's Hill, a beautiful elevation of several acres in extent, all of which are cultivated to the summit. In 1869 an avenue was built over this hill to Brighton, that the many visitors might have an easier ascent to the top. A fine macadam- ized road-bed was thoroughly built, with paved gut- ters, and a plank walk laid for pedestrians. Previous to this time it was only a rough path. This land has been owned in the Corey and Griggs families for a long time, till of late new owners have appreciated the location and erected residences on the same. Some have resorted thither upon the advice of their phy- sicians, and with satisfactory results to their health ; for, curious as it may appear, the air is warmer in the winter season by four to six degrees on the hill than in the valley below, while the cool, refreshing breezes of summer are soft, cheering, and refreshing. This hill, from its peculiar position and prominence, is destined to become more and more sought after as a place of residence by those who appreciate widely-ex- tended views.

On some fine afternoon in summer-time let the reader start from the easterly end of Summit Avenue on Beacon Street and by slow degrees make the ascent. As he nears the summit the prospect widens, till he sees a beautiful panorama spread out before him in nature's loveliness at his very feet. Let us notice a few only of the many fine objects to be seen from the | highest point on the hill. Looking to the southwest we see the famous Chestnut Hill Reservoirs, two around the same, the granite-arched entrance to the inclosure, and the fine borders of granite, and grass, so charming to the eye. Farther to the left may be for their location and the views to be had from the same, as Aspinwall's, in near proximity to where we stand, while farther away are Fisher's, Lyman's, Chestnut Hills, and Goddard Heights at the extreme south part of the town, and as we turn our eye still farther are the villages of Dedham, Hyde Park, and Roxbury Highlands, with their towering church spires distinctly seen. Passing these and still farther away, our eyes catch glimpses of the Blue Hills of Milton, from which Massachusetts derived her name, and again to the north of these are Dorchester Heights, rendered famous in the Revolution, and then the full bay is spread out before you, with the

Another high elevation is that south of Goddard Avenue and north of Newton Street, two hundred | and seventy-eight feet high, sometimes called Avon white sails of large and smaller craft floating back

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and forth on the blue waters, while steamers are lively bearing hundreds on excursions of pleasure to near and remote places, while now and then the majestic floating-palaces bound for foreign countries may be seen. Directly to the east may be seen the gilded dome of the State-House, with Beacon Street dividing the waters of the Back Bay, and the elegant resi- dences crowded on both sides of the same, also broad Commonwealth Avenue, which, together with the many fine residences, public buildings, and churches in the new section of the capital city, makes a fine picture.

To the left of the city we cannot fail to notice that ever-to-be-seen granite monument, standing on the ground rendered memorable by the battle of Bunker's Hill. A little stretch of the vision to the north of this colossal structure are the cities of Malden and Somerville, and the towns of Everett, Arlington, and many others. Casting our eye to the left of the above-named places, we see the tall chimneys of East Cambridge, showing enterprise in the manufacturing business.

To the north of where we now stand is the seat of learning named in honor of John Harvard, with the numerous buildings belonging to the same, while farther on to the westward may be seen the tower and cemetery of Mount Auburn, and the tall chimney of the United States Arsenal at Watertown, from whence, if it be near sunset, we may hear the gun and see the smoke of the powder. To the north of this eminence, in the distant view may be seen the snow-capped White Mountains of New Hampshire rising majestically, also the towering " Monadnock" is distinctly visible, while to the west in solitary gran- deur is the lofty " Wachusett." From this elevation over forty church spires may be counted. And while we have named some of the many distant views, we will mention a few of those near at hand. With the exception of the rocky conglomerate ledge at Rox- bury, there are but few of the rough, ragged rocks or barren cliffs in this vicinity, but large, regular rolling swells of land, all crowned with verdure to their sum- mits, while their slopes are covered with fruit-trees. The valleys between these hills are fertile, adorned with grass and grain of every kind, and flowers of every hue ; gentle rills wind through the meadows, marking their courses by a fresher green and a belt of luxuriant growth,-these all blend in perfect harmony, and pre- sent a prospect fraught with all that is rich in agri- culture and pleasing in rural scenery. With this charming prospect is spread before you the presence of hundreds of handsome dwellings, many of them of the " Queen Anne" and Italian Villa style of ar-

chitecture, and are embowered in groves of fruit and ornamental trees. The business portion of the town or village is a short distance to the southeast on the one hand, nestling at the foot of the mount, while on the east and north is the beautifully winding and cir- cuitous Charles River, up which Winthrop and his party made explorations, also the rural settlements at Longwood. The rear slope of this hill contains a natural growth of woods, while the surrounding pros- pect is beautified by evergreen foliage of many a shade, orchards laden with fruit, vintages bearing the ripening clusters, and if it chance to be late in au- ! tumn, all is lighted by the rich tints of the maple, - birch, beech, and elm. Another and remarkable feature of the view is its uninterrupted distinctness in the lines of avenues and streets, all of which are clearly defined, while to the ocean the picture expands with equal breadth and beauty. Within a few years, on one of the large buttonwood-trees, which were the last of the many trees remaining on the summit of this hill, was a tin signal used by the United States Coast Survey as a point from which they made their calcula- tions. This drive over Summit Avenue was the fav- orite drive of Professor Agassiz. On his first visit to this place early in the afternoon, he was so charmed with the view that he remained till dark to take in the inexhaustible richness of the prospect ; for four succeeding days he took the same drive, and ever afterwards it was his most frequent place of visitation.

President Eliot is often seen on horseback commun- ing with nature alone on this grand height, and is said to have pronounced this one of the most delightful spots in the country.

One of our own townsmen, who has had an ample opportunity of observation, a gentleman of taste and culture, says, " In all my travels in Europe never have I seen so much loveliness as presents itself to the eye from the summit of Corey Hill.

Another has written : "To depict the beauties of this place, or to make manifest to others the inward emotions and ecstasies which well up in the bosom of every appreciative beholder, would be an attempt to portray that which is indescribable."

The air of the hill-tops is pure, The water is sparkling and clear ; No home hath the city, I'm sure, Like ours in the spring of the year.

The next prominent elevation is that well known as the Aspinwall Hill, of little less height than some of the other eminences in the town, but none the less beautiful. This land is on the southerly side of Washington Street, and extends from Cypress Street on the east to Beacon Street on the west, and to the rail-

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road on the south, and embraces something like ninety acres of land, originally forming the Benjamin White farm.

In 1788, Dr. William Aspinwall purchased about forty acres of the highest portion of the hill, and in 1803 erected the mansion-house on the same, now occupied by a grandson of the doctor, of the same name. The view from this mansion commands a fine landscape picture for miles around, and although not as high as some others, the scenery is delightful. Recent enterprise is developing portions of this hill, by building superior streets and laying out the lands for residences, which we notice are now coming into market through the Aspinwall Land Company, an association organized for the purpose of placing some of the best land, for the erection of fine buildings, to be found in the town. The surface of this hill is well covered with wood, consisting of the sturdy oak, chest- nut, and walnut.

Among the lesser heights of the town may be men- tioned " Bradley's" Hill, formerly called " Walley's" Hill, from Thomas Walley, who resided near the cor- ner of Cypress and Walnut Streets. Capt. Bradley purchased this property about 1820, and erected upon the same several small tenement-houses, or bought and removed thither old houses, till the settlement became notorious. Our readers will not forget the "Sham Meeting-House" which he erected on the highest part of the hill, in which Capt. Bradley would imi- tate church worship from an old pulpit which he had, and from which he would hold forth on the Sabbath by treating " all around." This church, so called, was an old barn, with a spire erected on the same, so that a stranger would at once suppose it to be a church, while it was only a carpenter-shop. In this kind of | oddity Mr. Bradley delighted. Just previous to his death a Mr. Hart purchased the premises and re- moved the buildings to other localities, and the land now belongs to the " Goddard Heirs." This is a de- lightful spot of land, and will no doubt eventually be used for elegant residences. It lies just south of the railroad and Aspinwall Hill.

A short distance to the southwest of the last-named locality is another high spot of land called " Fair- mount," situated on the south side of Dudley Street, and on the southerly side of the old Boston reservoir. The prospect from this hill, like all the hills in Brook- line, is fine, but quite limited in comparison with many of the higher hills. The north side of this is covered with residences, and there are more fine locations here to be found.

To the north of the village of Brookline, and near to the village of " Allston," is an elevation known as " Babcock Hill," on which is a mansion-house, which has formerly been occupied as a private residence, where at one time Holmes Hinckley, Esq., of the " Boston Locomotive-Works," had his home, and later occupied by Shadrach Robinson and the Hon. Alanson W. Beard, late collector of the port of Boston, but is now a hotel, known as the " Hawthorne House."

Rivers and Ponds .- The town of Brookline is well watered by numerous small streams, some of which are not of sufficient size to be dignified by the

Fisher's Hill, sometimes called Henshaw Hill, is two hundred and forty feet high, and is near the cor- ner of Brighton and Boylston Streets, has a fine broad | distinctive name of a river. The principal stream is top, from which the view of the surrounding country | the well-known "Charles River," which formed the is exceedingly elegant, and on account of the eleva- tion and near proximity to the town, the Brook- of the line between Boston and Brookline in 1855. line Water-Works have erected a reservoir for the supplying water to her citizens. The ease with which the ascent may be made by carriage to the summit of | this hill makes it a place of resort for pleasure-driving.

to a base crowd, and generally winding up the service | seldom occurs in the history of rivers. By this phe-

north boundary of the town previous to the change This river, which has been called " Massachusetts," -the Indian's name of which was " Quinobequin,"- rises in Hopkinton and Milford, and flows through the towns of Bellingham, Franklin, Medway, Medfield, Sherburne, Natick, Dover, Dedham, Needham, New- ton, Weston, Waltham, Watertown, Brighton, Brook- line, Cambridge, and Charlestown, to Boston Harbor. The tide extends up about four miles from Boston to Watertown. It is au exceedingly circuitous river, encircling in its course the larger part of the city of Newton, the centre of its channel forming the bound- ary line on the north, west, and south of that city. The falling off from its natural direction at Dedham, and leaving one-third of the water to continue a route seemingly concordant with its general course, is a very extraordinary circumstance in its nature, and such as nomenon the towns of Brookline, Boston, Brighton, Newton, Roxbury, Dorchester, and a strip from the towns of Dedham and Watertown, form an island, or rather are circumscribed by the waters of Charles River, Mother Brook, Neponset River, and Boston Harbor. In one portion of this river it is so singu- larly circuitous that in passing from Dover to Sher- burne over its bed in a straight line to its estuary or outlet is fourteen miles, while, taken by the serpen- tine course of its water, it measures thirty-eight and a half miles.

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The next in order for size and importance is the well-known " Muddy River," having its source as an outlet for " Jamaica Pond" and " Ward's Pond," in Roxbury, and the ground around Chestnut Street, ! runnng in a northerly and northeasterly direction into the "Back Bay," sometimes called " Charles River Bay," the centre of the stream forming the boundary line between Roxbury (Boston) and Brook- line. The early settlement of the locality called " Muddy River" was named from the fact that this river was naturally muddy, owing to its peculiar loca- tion. At one time in the history of the early inhab- itants there were two landings on this stream, known as "Cotton Landing" and " Aspinwall's Dock," where bricks and wood were landed. In order to a proper understanding as to how these docks were of use, the reader must bear in mind that the course of navi- gation was unimpeded up this channel as far as the bridge near the old railroad station.

Another small stream commences in the vicinity of Chestnut Hill Reservoir, and following the line of the New York and New England Railroad in an easterly direction, it empties into Muddy River near the works of the Brookline Gas Company. A small creek has : its rise near W. B. Cowan's farm and the vicinity of Warren Street, running in a northerly direction, and between the old reservoir belonging to the city of Boston, and Fairmount, and so on to the last-named stream, near Cypress Street Station.

The next stream has its origin in the easterly border of Brighton District, and follows in an easterly direction through the farms of the late James Bart- lett and Deacon Thomas Griggs, but a short distance | north of Washington and School Streets, and through the land of Aspinwall, where it enters Muddy River, just south of " Aspinwall Avenue."

There is also a small creek starting in the low ground near Beacon Street, in the late Marshal Stearn's (now William Stearn's) land, and running northerly to "Swallow Pond," so called, at the corner of Freeman and Essex Streets, and from thence on to Charles River, into which it empties a short distance west of " Cottage Farm Station."

through what is well known as " Bald Pate Mead- ows," through the south part of Newton by Palmer's, through " Brook Farm" to Charles River, near " Cow Island." This stream was known as " Pond Brook," or " Palmer Brook."

A small stream known as " Smelt Brook," having its source in the northeasterly corner of Brighton Dis- trict, and then running northerly across Brighton Avenue and the Albany Railroad, it empties into Charles River. This forms the boundary line be- tween Brookline and Brighton at the extreme north- west corner.

Ponds .- There are but three sheets of water in the town, viz. : the original " Boston Reservoir," on Boylston Street, the " Brookline Reservoir," on the summit of " Fisher's Hill," and one pond known as " Swallow Pond," sometimes called " Hall's Pond," where it is said they have never been able to find any bottom.

Trees and Shrubs .- William Wood's description in the earliest settlement of New England well de- scribes this section :

" Trees both in hills and plaines, in plenty be, The long livd Oake, and mournful Cypris tree, Skie-towering Pines, and Chesnuts coated rough, The lasting Cedar, with the Walnut tough ; The rosin-dropping Firr for masts in use ; The boatman seeke for oares, light, neat grown, Sprewse, The brittle Ash, the ever-trembling Aspes, The broad-spread Elme, whose concave harbors waspes ; The water-spongie Alder, good for nought, Small Elderne by th' Indian Fletchers sought, The knotty Maple, pallid Birtch, Hauthornes, The Hornbound tree that to be cloven scornes, Which, from the tender Vine oft takes its spouse, Who twinds imbracing arme's about his boughes. Within this Indian Orchard fruits be some, The ruddie Cherrie and the jettie Plumbe, Snake murthering Hazell, with sweet Saxaphrage,

Whose Spurnes in beere allays hot fevers rage, The diars [dyers] Shumach, with more trees there be, That are both good to use and rare to see."

Boundaries .- In 1632 considerable accessions were made to the town of New Town (now Cam- bridge) by the arrival of Rev. Mr. Hooker and his company, numbering forty-seven in all, who removed

Another stream rises in the low ground around | from Mount Wollaston by order of court. They re- Hammond Street, and running southerly of " Holy- | moved to New Town with the impression that New hood Cemetery," and uniting with the waters leading Town would be the metropolis of the colony. In May, 1634, scarcely three years from their beginning, they complained of straitness for want of land, espe- cially meadow, and requested leave to look for en- largement and removal, which was granted. Mes- from " Hammond's Pond" at the southwest corner or outlet of the pond, and running southerly through the meadows to the west corner of Brookline, where there was a sufficient accumulation of water at Newton Street, in early days, to drive a water-wheel in the | sengers were sent in different directions to explore, saw-mill of Erosamon Drew, on the dividing line be- , and, from the flattering accounts about Connecticut, tween Newton and Brookline; thence passing on on the 4th day of September they asked leave to

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HISTORY OF NORFOLK COUNTY, MASSACHUSETTS.

remove to Connecticut. The question of their re- moval occupied the attention of the court for several days ; the principal reasons for their removal were want of accommodations for their cattle. "So as they were not able to maintain their ministers, nor could they receive any more of their friends to help them."

After hearing the argument the court put it to vote upon the question of their removal to Con- necticut, and of the deputies fifteen were in favor of their departure and ten against it. The Governor and two assistants were in favor of granting their request, and the deputy and all the other assistants opposed to their removal. Upon this state of things there grew up great differences of opinion between the Governor, the deputies, and the assistants. And in consequence of the disagreement the whole court agreed to keep a day of humiliation to seek the Lord, which was done, Rev. Mr. Cotton preaching the ser- mon from the text Haggai ii. 4: " Upon the strength of the magistry, ministry, and the people," after which things went on smoothly, and the congregation at New Town (now Cambridge) came and accepted of the enlargement of land that had previously been tendered to them by Boston and Watertown.

The enlargements of land granted by Boston and Watertown to quiet the people in New Town (now Cambridge) were what is now Brookline, Brighton, and Newton, excepting that portion which had pre- | viously been assigned to individuals.

These grants, or donations, of land to New Town were made upon condition that Mr. Hooker's com- pany should not remove, as appears by the following, which is a true copy of the record,-Sept. 25, 1634 :

" Also it is ordered, that the ground aboute Muddy Ryver, belonging to Boston, & vsed by the inhabitants thereof, shall hereafter belonge to Newe-Towne, the wood & Timber thereof groweinge & to be groweinge to be reserved to the inhabitants of Boston, provided, & it is the meaneing of the Court, that if | Mr. Hooker & the congregacon nowe setted here shall remove hence, that then the aforesaid meadowe ground shall returne | to Waterton, & the ground att Muddy Ryver to Boston."

After the enlargement of New Town was settled (in April, 1635), Ensign William Jennison was chosen to set out the bounds between New Town and Roxbury, whose report is as follows :

" The line between Roxbury and New Town is laid to run southwest from Muddy River near that place called ' Nowell's Bridge' a tree marked on four sides, and from the mouth of the River to that place; the south side is for Roxbury, and the north for Newtown.

" WILLIAM JENNISON."

This line was intended to carry out the gift of Boston to New Town, by which the whole of Muddy River, more or less, became a part of New Town, and so remained nearly two years. In the early part of

the summer of 1636, Mr. Hooker, Mr. Stone, and about one hundred men, women, and children, com- posing the whole of Mr. Hooker's congregation, left New Town, and traveled one hundred miles through a trackless wilderness to Connecticut. They arrived safely at Hartford, and laid the foundation of that city.

When Rev. Mr. Hooker and his congregation re- moved to Hartford, the proviso that had been placed in the grant of land to them-viz., that the lands should revert to Boston if they remove from thence --- took effect immediately, and a committee was appointed to settle the boundaries between New Town and Muddy River, who made the following report in April, 1636 :

"We whose names are underwritten, being appointed by the Court to set out the bounds of the New Town upon Charles River, do agree that the bounds of the town shall run from the marked tree, by Charles River, on the Northwest side of the Roxbury bounds, one and a half miles North east, and from thence three miles northwest, and so from thence five miles Southwest; and on the Southwest side of Charles River, from the Southeast of Roxbury bounds, to run four miles on a Southwest line, reserving the proprieties to several persons, granted by special order of the Court. " WILLIAM SPENCER. " NICHOLAS DANFORTH. " WILLIAM JENNISON."

The above description was undoubtedly intended to restore the territory of Muddy River to Boston, or as much of it as the committee judged expedient.

At the General Court, held March 2, 1638,

" It is ordered that New Town shall henceforward be called Cambridge."

After the changing of the name of the town the report of the above-mentioned committee-Spencer, Danforth, and Jennison-was not satisfactory, and the towns of Boston, Muddy River, and Cambridge appointed committees Dec. 20, 1639, to settle the boundary lines.

Here follows the doings of the said committee :

" We whose names are underwritten being appointed by the towns to which we belong, to settle the bounds between Boston (Muddy River) and Cambridge, have agreed that the partition shall run from Charles River, up along the channel of Smelt Brook to a marked tree upon the brink of said Brook, near the first and lowest reedy meadow ; and from that tree, in a straight line, to the great red oak, formerly marked by agreement, at the foot of the great hill, on the northermost end thereof ; and from the said great red oak to Dedham Line, by the Trees marked by agreement of both parties this 2. 8. 1640 (August 2, 1640).

" THOMAS OLIVER, " WILLIAM COLLBRON, " For Boston.

" RICHARD CHAMPNEY, " JOHN BRIDGE,

"GREGORY STONE, "JOSEPH ISAAC, ' THOMAS MARETT, " For Cambridge."

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History of Norfolk County, Massachusetts, with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men, Part 165

Author: Hurd, D. Hamilton (Duane Hamilton) ed Publication date: 1884 Publisher: Philadelphia, J. W. Lewis & Co. Number of Pages: 1534

Author: Hurd, D. Hamilton (Duane Hamilton) ed
Publication date: 1884
Publisher: Philadelphia, J. W. Lewis & Co.
Number of Pages: 1534