USA > Massachusetts > Plymouth County > Scituate > History of Scituate, Massachusetts, from its first settlement to 1831 > Part 3
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BROOKS.
mile in length, which comprises many acres of excellent arable land. Nearly a mile above the river's mouth, is White's ferry, (see ferries), where is a wharf and a small village on the Marsh- field side. Here vessels have been built, and many that have been built above, here receive their rigging. The river's width may be estimated as follows in ordinary tides : at Union bridge seven rods-at King's landing eight rods-at Little's bridge nine rods : it expands below to a half mile in width, where it is now called fourth cliff bay, and formerly "New harbour :" here the channel divides, and unites again a mile below : a half mile above its mouth it is fourteen rods in width. The channel at the mouth often shifts its place, owing to the nature of the sandy bottom, and to the violence of the stream and the tides. It seldom affords more than nine feet of water, even when there is but one channel: but it often happens that there are two channels when the water is something less. This fact accounts for the difficulty and expense of carrying out the vessels built upon this river : and yet only in part, for there are shoals above, over which vessels of 200 tons and upwards must be lifted with gondolas or heaved with kedges. The principal are Will's shoal at the upper part of the New harbour marshes, and the Horse shoe shoal.
Formerly, it is said, salmon were taken in this river. Bass have been abundant until within a few years: they are taken chiefly in winter. Shad and alewives are still taken, but they are gradually diminishing.
BROOKS.
Between Scituate and Hingham is a chain of hills, from which the brooks that rise, flow both easterly and westerly.
Bound brook, received its name, from being in part, a northern boundary of the Plymouth patent. Its principal tributaries are Merritt's brook and Groundsel brook in Scituate, and Hezekiah Tower's brook or pond in Cohasset. It falls into the Gulph between Scituate and Cohasset.
Musquashcut brook, rises in the great Musquashcut pond, in the Conihassett territory of Scituate, and unites with Bound brook, in the Gulph.
The first Herring brook has its rise in George Moore's pond or swamp, and Brushy hill swamp, and falls into North River at New harbour marshes. Its whole length is scarcely three miles. The second Herring brook rises in Ridge hill swamp,
22
HARBOURS.
Dead swamp and Black pond, and falls into the North River at a point about equally distant from the first and third Herring brooks. The third Herring brook falls into the North River about two and a half miles above. This is the line between Scituate and Hanover. It rises in Valley swamp, on the bounds of Hingham, where is a spring of extraordinary copiousness. It receives several tributaries, viz. " Assinippi or Rocky water," and Hugh's cross brook, from Hanover, and Marget's from Scituate. Its whole length may be five miles.
Satuit brook, or Stony brook from which the town received its name, is a small stream scarcely a mile in length, and falls into the harbour. These brooks are not sufficiently copious to afford an unfailing supply of water for the mills. The third Herring brook is the most abundant, and the second is the least so : but they all have failed in times of extraordinary drought. It was an object of the early planters, to seek the vicinity of these brooks, in locating their farms.
HARBOUR.
Scituate extends about eight miles on the sea shore, including the beach on the east, and the glades on the west. Nearly in the centre of this line, is the Harbour. It is small and difficult of access, on account of a bar at its mouth. It affords about ten feet water at the bar, in ordinary full tides, but at low tides cannot be passed with vessels of any considerable burden. Here are two wharves and a considerable village. The two points which form the harbour, are Crow point on the south- east, and Cedar point on the north-west. On this latter, is a Light-house, erected in 1811, showing two steady lights, white above and red below. "The four cliffs so well known to mariners, are all on the south of the Harbour, showing sandy fronts."
The harbour was within the Conihassett grant : but the town of Scituate enjoyed the privilege of landing : and two landings there, are still the Town's property. For an account of the early settlement here, see Conihassett Grant.
NEW HARBOUR.
The North River had obtained the name of New Harbour before 1636. Vessels undoubtedly early wintered in fourth
23
FISHERIES.
cliff bay, and found good moorings at "Pincin's bank." We are unable to give much account of the foreign trade from the North River. "In 1681, the Bark Adventure of 40 tons, sailed from the North River for the West Indies. She was owned by Scituate and Marshfield people. (Hist. Soc. Col. Vol. 4. 2d series.)
The fact that the River would form an excellent harbour, were it not for the shifting bar at its mouth, has given rise to various proposals for a remedy. It has often been in serious agitation, to cut a ship channel between the third and fourth cliffs : but the nature of the ground renders it probable that the same obstructions would there be met. At this present time, there is a petition before Congress, for a grant to improve the navigation by a canal from the River to the Old Harbour. It is estimated that $15,000 might cover the whole expense. Congress ordered the survey, and it was completed in July 1829. We are waiting the result with considerable interest, because it is confidently calculated by many, that it would improve the water both of the river and the harbour, and avoid > every shoal that now impedes the navigation. The tides of extraordinary height flow through this proposed route, as has happened in October 1829, and several times before. Stetson's tide mill at the harbour was swept through this route, and carried to Marshfield shore in the great snow storm Nov. 1786.
BRIGGS'S HARBOUR
Received its name from Walter Briggs, an early settler in that vicinity : and was so called as early as 1650; and sometimes also called Strawberry cove. It is a small cove formed by the extreme north-east point of Scituate, called the glades. We believe that vessels of small burthen were anciently built there, and fishing and coasting craft used to winter there. The Indian name of this little harbour was Mishquashtuck, sometimes written in our Records Musquashcut.
FISHERIES.
We first notice the fisheries of the streams. It is reasonable to conjecture that the first alewives were taken in the first Herring brook, as some of the earliest settlements were near that stream. These fish ascended this brook to George Moore's
24
MACKEREL FISHERY.
pond, and as the stream was narrow, they were easily taken in nets. They continued to ascend this brook until the mills prevented them in late years, by not being provided with suita- ble sluices. Recently, an attempt has been made to restore them, but without much success.
Mr Hatherly had " a herring wear" on Musquashcut brook near his house in 1640. We believe that a few of these fish find their way through the gulph to the Musquashcut pond, at the present day.
On Bound brook was formerly an abundant alewive fishery. As late as 1794 an Act of General Court was procured by Scituate and Cohassett, for renewing the fishery, by provid- ing sluices at the mills, regulating the time and manner of taking them and removing the obstructions to their ascending to Hezekiah Tower's pond, to which "they formerly ascended abundantly, to the great advantage of said Towns." We believe the act was repealed in 1800, and the fishery is extinct. In the second Herring brook these fish used to ascend to Black pond : but they have long since been repelled by the mill dams. Smelts continue to visit this brook. They are taken in the latter end of March. In the third Herring brook, these fish used to ascend to Valley swamp. But here they have been destroyed in like manner as above.
The shad and alewive fishery in the North River has long been a subject of controversy between Scituate and Pembroke, and is so at present. In their ascending to the Matakeeset Ponds, they used to be taken in great abundance. Since an Act of Court in 1761, permitting seines to be drawn in the North River, it is alleged that they have been fast diminishing. Whether this, or the mills at Pembroke, or some unknown cause has produced this effect, we know not, but certain it is that these fisheries were reduced to comparatively little value in 1825 : but since that time the fish have increased.
In 1639, the Colony Court granted "liberty to Mr William Vassall to make an oyster bank in the North River sixty rods in length, near his farm there called the 'West New-land,' and ap- propriate it to his own use, &c." (Col. Rec.) This was near Little's bridge. We believe the project did not prove successful.
MACKEREL FISHERY.
We have shown before, that the ship William set up a fishing station at Scituate in 1633. This was doubtless the cod fishery :
25
MACKEREL FISHERY.
and mackerel were taken at that time, chiefly for bait. They were taken with the seine; and it is stated in Historical Col- lections, Vol. 4. p. 127. 1st series, that the settlers at Hull first taught the Plymouth Colonists, to take them at Cape Cod by moon light.
We find the following Court order, June, 1670 : "Whereas we have formerly seen great inconvenience of taking mackerel at unseasonable times, whereby their increase is greatly dimin- ished, and that it hath been proposed to the Court of the Mass. that some course might be taken for preventing the same, and that they have lately drawn up an order about the same, this Court doth enact, that henceforth no mackerel shall be caught, except for spending while fresh, before the first of July annu- ally, on penalty of the loss of the same, the one half to the informer, and the other to the Colony."
In 1680, Cornet Robert Stetson, of Scituate, and Nathaniel Thomas of Marshfield hired the Cape fishery for bass and mack- erel. In 1684, the Court enacted a law " prohibiting the seining of mackerel in any part of the Colony;" and the same year leased the Cape fishery for bass and mackerel to Mr William Clark for seven years, at £30 per annum.
Subsequently to 1700, it is certain that the mackerel were very abundant in the Massachusetts Bay. It was not uncommon for a vessel to take a thousand barrels in the season. The packing, as it is called, was chiefly done at Boston and Plym- outh until late years. The vessels of Scituate now pack at our harbour. George Morton, who came from Plymouth in 1730, was the first cooper of whom we have heard, at Scituate har- bour. Our vessels now find them less abundant, and farther from their former haunts. They used to set into the bay early in May, and again in autumn : but now they are found at Block Island channel in May-at George's Bank and Nan- tucket shoals in the summer, and at Mount Desert and along the shores of Maine in the autumn. Those first taken are lean, and favour the commonly received opinion, that they lie in the muddy bottom, in the winter : but towards the winter they are found well fed, fat and delicious. The full grown mack- erel vary in weight from one to two and three pounds. The fattest, taken in the autumn, are not generally of the largest size.
In 1770 upward of thirty vessels were fitted out of Scituate, in this employment. We believe there are now about thirty- five annually fitted out, of various tonnage, from 50 to 150 tons : and carrying from six to fifteen hands. The number of barrels
4
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NAVIGATION.
taken by our vessels in 1828 was something more than 15,000. A writer in the Historical Society's Collections gives the follow- ing description of these fish, and of these fisheries, Vol. 4. 2 series, p. 232. "The aboriginal name of this fish is Wawun- nekeseag, a plural term signifying fatness- a very descriptive and appropriate name. The mode of taking these fish is, while the vessel is under quick way and the helm secured, when all are engaged at the long veered lines, of which it is said, that one man will attend three, and it may be more .*
They are a capricious and sportive fish. In cloudy and even wet weather, they take the hook with most avidity. They are very partial to the colour of red; hence a rag of that hue is sometimes a bait. A small strip of their own flesh taken from near the tail, is used with most success.
In early times, the shores of our bays were skirted with forest trees, quite to the water's edge. In the month of June, when all nature is in bloom, the volatile farina of the forest trees then floats in the air, and occasionally settles on the smooth surface of the seas. Then it is, that this playful fish, attracted by this phenomenon, leaps and bounds above the surface of the water. So again, at a later season, in July and August, winged insects, carried away by the south-west winds, settle and rest on the bosom of the ocean, a welcome herald, it is said, to the mackerel catcher. Such are the habits of many fishes : and hence the use of the fly as a bait, by the angler of the trout streams."
NAVIGATION.
The first account which we have gathered of enterprise in Navigation, was in 1633, when the ship William, Capt. Trevere, traded to Hudson's River, probably exchanging goods for furs. In 1646, there appear to have been several vessels at the Harbour, which carried on a coasting trade with the Natives,
" The first manner of taking Mackerel, was by seining by moon light. This perhaps was first practised by Mr Isaac Allerton and his fishing com- pany at Hull, as early as 1626. After a half century the mode of fishing was changed to that of drailing, with long lines, while the vessel was under easy way : and this mode has been changed, within these last twenty years. The mode of fishing generally practised now, is to invite the fish around the vessel, while lying to, by throwing out great quantities of fish cut in small pieces, and to take them with short lines, held in the hand, and drawn in with a single motion of the arm. By this method, it is thought that thrice as many fish may be taken, in a given time, as by any former method.
27
SHIP BUILDING.
and to Europe and Jamaica. Mr Hatherly, Isaac Chittenden, Thomas Ensign, John Woodfield, Edward Jenkins, and a great part of the substantial settlers had some interest in this trade. In the River, Capt. Collamore and the Wantons carried on a considerable trade before 1670. But we are not able to make any very accurate statement of the number of vessels engaged in fishing, coasting, and foreign trade in those early times.
We will briefly subjoin a statement of the business at this time. From the Harbour thirty-five vessels are fitted out for the mackerel fishery : some of them being of 100 tons burthen and upwards, and employed also in winter in the southern coasting, carrying lumber, fish, &c. and bringing grain and flour. Two regular packets from the Harbour carry on an almost daily intercourse with Boston. From the river, four regular coasters sail, principally to Boston, but making an occasional voyage to Maine. The persons who have the greatest interest in Navigation at present, are Messrs. Dunbar at the Harbour ; Messrs. Jenkins and Mr John Beal : almost all the substantial citizens have some interest in the trade.
SHIP BUILDING.
The first ship-builder at the Harbour, who conducted the business with spirit, was Will James. He commenced about 1646. He dug a dock, into which his vessels were launched, which even now, bears his name. It was at the North town landing, and in front of the present dwelling of Jesse Dunbar, Esq. After him, Job Otis (though we are not sure that he was a shipwright) conducted the business of building and navi- gation on the same spot, and continued it since 1700. Few vessels have been built there for the last fifty years. We believe that vessels had been built first on the River, and at a place afterward called Hobart's landing, by Samuel House, (see North River). And we have already named the principal ship-yards and shipwrights, in describing the River.
Many of the whale ships which have been employed for the last half century or more, by the people of New Bedford and Nantucket, have been built here. They generally rate from 300 to 350 tons. The largest, that we have known, was a merchantman, built by Mr William Delano, A. D. 1812, of near 500 tons. An average of the amount in twenty years may be nearly as follows: twelve vessels built per annum,
/
28
AGRICULTURE.
rating from 70 to 350 tons : the average cost of carrying them out of the River, may be estimated at $1 per ton.
The timber is gradually diminishing in the vicinity, and yet has not become so scarce, but that ship building might still be a flourishing business, were the obstructions of the river removed. We are told, from good authority, that near a century ago, it was a general remark, that the building materials were so far exhausted, that the business must soon fail. The late aged and respectable Mr Elisha Foster used to say, that about 1760, his friends earnestly dissuaded him from his design to become a shipwright, for the reasons above. But never, we believe, was the business conducted more successfully, than by him, until 1800 and later; and by his sons since.
The North River was celebrated for its ship-building in the early annals of the Colonies, and has held its ascendency until late years. It has been famous for the education of shipwrights, who have emigrated, and established their business along the whole coast, from New York to the farthest boundary of Maine. Scarce a ship-yard, or Navy-yard can be visited in this whole range of coast, without meeting many workmen, who themselves, or their fathers, were educated at the North River.
The families, at present most actively engaged in the busi- ness, are Barstows, Ford, Copeland, Fosters, Souther, Cud- worth, Torreys, James, Tildens, Briggses, Turners, Delano, Clap : the ancestors of whom, for many generations, have been employed in the same business.
AGRICULTURE.
The cultivation of the soil was not an object of prime atten- tion with many of the early settlers : being situated about the harbour and along the banks of the river, their first enterprises were those of navigation and the fisheries. The lands were cleared very slowly. Those lands upon the cliffs which had been improved, we believe, as Indian planting land, and the salt marshes, which were covered with a natural crop of grass, and the mellow intervales near the river, had all been laid out as early as 1636. The remaining part of the territory, it was thought, offered little encouragement to the planter. Hence it was, that in A. D. 1637, the settlers began to complain of "the straitenesse of their boundes," and the "want of lands proper for cultivation." The same circumstances, referred to above, have hardly ceased to exercise an unfavourable influence on
29
MANUFACTURES
agriculture. The soil in general is of a good quality, but rug- ged and stoney : a more ready subsistence can be gained from the seas, and the salt marshes produce an abundance of forage, though of indifferent quality. We can however state a favour- able fact, viz. that salt meadow has fallen in value more than fifty per cent. within the last twenty years, owing princi- pally to the better cultivation of the uplands. There are some farms at present, under a high state of cultivation ; and skill and science begin to exhibit a respectable influence. The ancient Williams farm, north of the Harbour, enjoys peculiar facilities of sea manure, and in the hands of the present pro- prietor has become very productive. Capt. Samuel Barker obtained a premium from the Plymouth County Agricultural Society, for the best crop of rye in the County in A. D. 1830. Richmond Jacob and Nathaniel Cushing also obtained premi- ums the same year, for the general improvement of their farms. Col. James Curtis received a donation in 1829, for the general improvement of his farm : and Thatcher Tilden, a premium for the best crop of rye.
MANUFACTURES.
The want of permanent mill streams must forever forbid the people of this Town from engaging largely in those manu- factures that are conducted by water power. Domestick manufactures were formerly carried on to some extent, but these have ceased, from causes that we need not name. The · manufacture of Nails was commenced in 1825, by Lemuel and Samuel A. Turner, on the first Herring brook. The easy subsistence gained from the seas, operates against enterprise in domestick manufactures, as it has operated against the inter- ests of agriculture. In 1720, the Town granted two acres of land on the Indian head River, between Pine Hill and Rocky run, to Joseph Barstow and Benjamin Stetson, "for the accom- modation of a Forge or Finery." (see mills).
In 1692, the Town granted the privilege of Satuit Brook to set up a fulling mill. We believe it was never built.
Bricks were first made on the West side of Colman's hills. In 1643, near John Palmer's, South of the Church hill. In 1700, near Henchman's corner, one half mile west of the South Meeting-house. In 1770, on the south-west of Cord- wood hill. Near the same time and also later, on the west side of Hooppole hill. For several years past there has been an
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PARISHES.
extensive manufacture on the south side of Jacob's mill pond, by the families of Jacob and Collamore. Also on the west of Mount Blue, bricks have been made.
John Copp had a distillery in Scituate, "allowed to sell not less than 10 galls." (Col. Rec. 1666.) Deacon George King manufactured malt extensively from 1710 forwards,
PARISHES.
The north or first Parish in Scituate must be considered as originating in the first settlement of the Town. The earliest parish records having been lost, we are unable accurately to state when they first procured the services of a preacher, or levied taxes for the support of publick worship. Mr Saxton had ministered there (though not ordained) sometime previous to 1634. But a church was not regularly formed, a minister settled, and a Society fully organized, until Jan. 18, 1634, O. S. The first house for publick worship had been erected some years earlier, but we are without data as to the year. In the laying out of lands in 1633, the Meeting-house is mentioned. It stood about one half mile south-east of the harbour on an eminence. The place is marked by the old burying ground, in "Meeting-house lane," and the foundation may still be traced. This house stood during the ministry of Messrs. La- throp, Chauncey, Dunster and Baker. About the time of Mr Baker's death, which happened 1678, the house had become ruinous, and the house of worship in the south or second Par- ish, (the origin of which will be noted in its proper place) was small and out of repair ;* and the two Societies having become reconciled, after a dissension of thirty-two years, propositions were made for uniting the two Societies, and building one commodious house for worship. The propositions not having succeeded, as we shall show in our notes on the second parish, we may venture to assume the year 1682 for the date of the erection of the second house of worship in the first parish. This house was erected on the same spot where the former house had stood, and lasted during the ministries of Mr Cushing and Mr Pitcher.
October 1, 1707, "Voted to build a new meeting house upon some part of the meeting house hill, not to be farther west than where the ways meet below Lieut. Buck's shop." This
* They were covered with thatch, as were most of the first dwelling houses.
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PARISHES.
place "where the ways meet " was the four corners, in front of the old parsonage. It was also voted "that the cost should not exceed £300 with the old meeting house." The Agents chosen were Capt. Israel Chittenden, Capt. Benjamin Pierce, Mr Samuel Clap, Mr David Jacob and James Cushing. There arose a severe discussion on the subject of the situation of the house. The west section of the parish had become populous, and demanded it as their right to have the house nearer to the centre of the population; and in the mean time the building was delayed. In 1708, the people at the west end, made known their case to the General Court by a Memo- rial. The same year a Committee of the Court viewed the premises, and heard the pleas of both parties on the spot. Their report was against removing the house farther west : and it was erected on the scite of their two former houses. August 1709, we find the following vote : "The Society im- powered Mr Joseph Otis to finish the meeting house by pewing of it, and also to appoint two and two to a pew (where they do not agree to couple themselves ) each couple paying the cost of building the pew." We believe this house was not plastered, for the following item appears in the parish accounts that year : " Allowed Joseph Bates 12s for filling chinks in the meeting house."
March 17, 1729, "The Society in consideration of the great difficulty that the Society labour under, by reason of the meet- ing house standing so near to the easterly part of the precinct, and that the house wanteth repairing, the sd Society agreed to take down the sd house and remove it to a certain piece or `gore of land betwixt two highways, which two highways open from that which goeth by Balch's towards Cohasset, the one by James Cudworth's house, the other by John Otis's, which piece of land is the N. W. part of a 20 acre lot, and since exchanged with the Town; provided sd gore of land can be obtained." February 9, 1730, "The Society voted to accept the piece of land where they want to set their meeting house, by way of gift from Mr Nicholas Litchfield." Agents were appointed at the same time, to remove and rebuild the house. But the inhabitants of the easterly section, were now roused to opposition, and appealed in their turn to the General Court. In 1733, a Committee of the Court repaired to the place, and having admitted the parties to a hearing, reported against the removal. In the mean time the agents chosen to contract with workmen, had made a contract with James Stetson of Hingham : the undertaker had proceeded to purchase materials,
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