USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > South Boston > History of South Boston (its past and present) and prospects for the future, with sketches of prominent men > Part 27
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CHAPTER III. TOPOGRAPHY AND THOROUGHFARES.
Many surface changes - District originally much higher, and had several hills - Three. distinct elevations to the present district - Improvements in contemplation - Streets - How laid out - Principal streets - Andrew square - Retail section - Residential streets.
F ROM a topographical point of view South Boston has undergone more and greater changes than any other district in Boston, and even at the present time some of the most important of these are now being consummated, while others, equally as great, are only in their embryotic state.
These great changes have not been confined to the mere razing of a hill or elevation, a trivial change in some particular part of its outline, or to the filling in of hollows among its various hills, past and present. To express these topographical changes briefly and in a complete and distinct manner, it can be said that all these combined have had their share in giving South Boston its present appearance, both as regards elevations, depressions and variations in its outline.
Originally South Boston was much higher than it is at present and at frequent intervals hills of considerable height rose from its sur- face. Its outline at this time was much smaller, and, as at the present time, was marked by few if any indentations.
Its many years of growth, coupled with business activity and the great and continuous increase in population, have all played their part in bringing to the district its present form, both in outline and surface, and though, perhaps, it has suffered some from an artistic standpoint, it is generally conceded that what changes have been made have added both to the comfort and convenience of its residents as well as to the general betterment of business interests.
Owing to the many changes of the past, already mentioned, we find South Boston of today with but three distinct elevations to which the term hill can be applied -Telegraph Hill, Mt. Washington and Broadway Hill.
Besides these there are various other elevations throughout the dis- trict, but none that could rightfully be called hills, being merely eleva- tions reaching to the general level rather than rising from it.
Both Telegraph Hill and Mt. Washington combined were known in years past as Dorchester Heights, and also as the "Twin Hills," but this title being vague, distinct titles were given each in order to distinguish them.
Telegraph Hill is the highest of the three and is situated about in
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IHISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
the centre of South Boston, east and west. Mt. Washington, named for General George Washington, is a short distance northeast of Tele- graph Hill and includes the territory between Dorchester, East Third, I, East Fourth and G Streets.
Broadway Hill, known in its early history as "Bush Tree Hill," is next to Telegraph Hill in height. This elevation is bounded by L, East Second, O, and East Fourth streets, and a part of its surface is laid out as a park, known as Independence Square.
Owing to the presence of these hills many of the streets throughout the dis- trict are hilly, as they either lead directly to these emi- nences or connect with thor- oughfares that do. Among these may be mentioned some of the most important ave- nues, including Broadway, Dorchester Street, Fourth
K STREET, (Looking South fiom East Sixth Street.) Street, H Street, G Street and many others.
There areno depressionsin the district worthy of notice, as the few that did exist have since been filled in and are covered with build-
EAST BROADWAY. (Looking east from L Street )
ings at the present time. The same can be said of the fields and meadows that once made this district famous as a pasturage.
The greatest change in its outline was occasioned by the filling in
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
of the flats on the northwest which added greatly to the size of the dis- trict and likewise the coastline. Marine Park and the Strandway also increased the amount of territory and to some extent the coast line.
Through various other improvements now in contemplation, includ- ing the completion of the Strandway, the construction of a parkway on the present site of the New York, New Haven & Hartford roadbed, the completion of Cove Street Extension and similar changes, all of which will necessitate the raising or lowering of street grades, will bring about extensive changes in the general surface of South Boston in the vicinity of these places.
EAST BROADWAY. AT EXTREME POINT (Looking east from O Street )
THOROUGHFARES.
South Boston's present importance is undoubtedly greatly due to the excellence of its highways, as such a feature of either town or city is always of inestimable value.
The laying out of the district received attention many years ago when the population was diminutive and consequently the territory but, sparsely settled, so that the plan of arranging the streets in regular form was accomplished without difficulty.
4-24 Next, the naming of the streets received attention and for a time it was thought best to call certain streets after the mayors of Boston. This idea was abandoned for a much better one, the alphabetical, and the streets that crossed these were given numerical names.
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
Generally speaking the streets run north and south, east and west, or to be more accurate those east of Dorchester Strcet, are cither north to south or east to west, while those west of Dorchester Street run northwest to southeast, or northeast to southwest. This difference in direction is occasioned by the peculiar form of the district which turns due east at Dorchester Street. The principal strcets running north and south are alphabetically named from A to Q Streets inclusive, with the exception of Dorchester Avenue [ and Dorchester Street.
The principal streets from east to west, with the ex- ception of Broadway, are numerically named from First to Ninth Street in- clusive. These streets were to be built upon and accordingly provis- DORCHESTER STREET. (East from Broadway ) ion was made for rear entrances by laying out narrower thoroughfares at the rear of each. These latter are almost as thoroughly occupied now as the main streets.
The numerically named streets are crossed by Dorchester Street, and this being centrally located the numerical streets east of it are designated by prefixing the word "East" and those west of it "West." In this manner the district is divided, making it much more convenient for strangers to locate objective points and this, coupled with the manner of naming the streets, makes it a simple matter to find any particular point in the entire district.
North of West First Street and from Fort Point Channel to E Street is a large section of territory known as the Commonwealth Lands, all laid out in streets, but little built upon as yet. South of both East and West Ninth Streets is the section formerly known as Washington Village. Dorchester Street runs through the centre of this section and is intersected by many small streets until Andrew Square is reached where it terminates. South of the square is Boston street and the con- tinuation of Dorchester Avenue. Both extend south and are con- nected at frequent intervals by short streets. East of Dorchester Avenue is a tract of land upon which some streets have been laid out and others have been only planned.
There are three important thoroughfares in South Boston- Broad- way, Dorchester Avenue and Dorchester Street. Likewise there are
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
three important centres, and two of the above named streets meet at each.
There is probably more traffic of all kinds at West Broadway, Division Street and Dorchester Avenue than any other place in South Boston, and hundreds of street cars, inward and outward-bound, pass this point daily.
The junction of East Broadway, West Broadway and Dorchester Street is also a very important point, having almost as many car lines passing this point as the other, besides being an important retail busi- ness centre.
Andrew Square is also an important point, Dorchester Avenue, Southampton Street, Boston Street, Preble Street and Dorchester
Dorchester Avenue. Southampton Street.
Dorchester Street.
Preble Street.
ANDREW SQUARE.
Street all entering the square from various directions. The car traffic here is also large, car lines running on three of the above named streets.
West Broadway, and East Broadway between I and L streets, rep- resent the bulk of the retail trade in its various branches. Other streets, however, including Dorchester Street, Dorchester Avenue and D Streets, also have busy retail sections.
Dorchester Avenue, East and West First Streets and intersecting or adjacent streets, as well as Boston and Granite Streets, are the busy manufacturing thoroughfares, where an endless variety of articles is turned out every day.
There are many pretty residential streets, including the greater part of East Broadway, East Fourth Street, East Fifth Street, Thomas Park, K Street, and various other thoroughfares.
All of these streets receive much attention, and, generally speaking, are in good repair. Residential streets as a rule are macad-
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
amized and the business streets paved with granite blocks, although in some places asphalt has been used.
A feature of West Broadway is the bicycle paths of asphalt close to the curbings running from B Street to E Street.
Summer Street Extension is practically a street of bridges, there being five bridges along this thoroughfare, the largest of which spans twenty-one sets of tracks of the Midland Division of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad, being one of the largest bridges ever constructed for the purpose of eliminating a grade crossing.
Covington Street is another thoroughfare that is something of a novelty. Being exceptionally steep, the street was graded as far as
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COVINGTON STREET, (Looking Toward Thomas Park )
practicable, and then a series of flights of steps were built, completing the thoroughfare which extends from East Eighth Street to Thomas Park.
Mr. William J. Feeley was an earnest advocate for this improve- ment.
It is generally conceded that K Street from East Fourth Street to the water is the prettiest street in South Boston. Its long rows of trees on either side, whose branches and foliage intermingle, forming a long arbor terminating in an expanse of water, is a scene, the beauty of which is difficult to equal.
Thomas Park is another thoroughfare whose numerous and pretty trees add greatly to its appearance. G Street, Linden Street and other streets in this vicinity are also beautified by their many verdant and shapely trees.
CHAPTER IV.
PARKS AND BOULEVARDS.
Marine Park, City Point - Establishment begun in 1876-Progress of the plans-Q Street widened - Piers - Castle Island secured for park uses - Boat service -Head- house - Public landing -Thomas Park - Small memorial erected - Independence Square - Commonwealth Park - Lincoln Park -M Street Playground - Gym- nasium planned- Boulevards - The Strandway - Extent and area - Features of the Strandway -Columbia Avenue - Location.
T HE benefits of parks as recreation places, as well as the beauty they lend to their surroundings, were realized many years ago, and with the rapid occupancy of great tracts of land by buildings of various kinds and the natural increase in population, these benefits become more and more evident.
Marine Park is the largest of the five recreation grounds within the boundaries of South Boston, and is the only one that comes under the municipal system, the other places, with the exception of Common- wealth Park, which comes under the Bath Commission, being under the direct care of Superintendent William Doogue, of the Public Grounds Department.
It was not until 1876 that the first steps were taken to lay out this territory at City Point as a park, and three years later, October 13, 1879, the Board of Aldermen passed an order for a joint committee on public parks to obtain and submit to the City Council an estimate of the cost of land for park purposes embracing the territory between the easterly line of Q Street, extending north to south and east to the Harbor Commissioners line.
The area within these lines consisted of 1,763,006 square feet, of which 1,553,844 were flats valued at half a cent per foot, and 209, 162 square feet of land, valued at from six to thirty-five cents per foot. The estimated value of the area was $39,600 and the buildings thereon $11,000, making a total of $50,600. The actual cost, however, has amounted to $232,972.57, and the work of construction up to date has cost $1,047,675.06.
The City Council passed a bill November 17, 1881, authorizing the City Treasurer to borrow $100,000 for the construction of a marine park at City Point, and the Mayor approved the bill December 24, 1881.
It was not until 1883 that the work of construction began, and during that year the surface and upland were graded, old cellars and depressions filled in, and a complete topographical survey and plan of the land taken, and the same of the flats between City Point and Castle Island. The expenditure for the first year amounted to $2,000.
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
During this year many suggestions were made, among the most important being that of connecting Castle Island with the mainland and making it a part of the general park plan ; another was the construction of a two-story pier to extend into the water from the southeasterly end of the park, with landing stages and accommodations for bathers. A petition was also sent to the Legislature asking for the use of the flats.
MARINE PARK - Looking Toward Farragut Statue. (Showing Boulevard.)
MARINE PARK - Entrance From the Strandway. (Looking West From Head-House,)
The following year all but two of the buildings on the land had been removed. The Studio building was moved to the street line, and was fitted up as a refectory and shelter, all sides of the building being provided with spacious verandas. During this year the building of Q Street to its full width was urged, and the Legislature was again petitioned for the flats east of Q Street.
In 1885 the Legislature granted the use of the flats for park pur- poses. A contract was made October 23, for the construction of a
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
temporary wooden pier, 1,200 feet long, from the southeast corner of the park, the outer end of which was afterward to be the inshore end of the proposed iron pier, to serve for a promenade during the construction of the permanent iron structure.
The work on the structure began shortly afterward and continued, with but little delay, until its completion the following year. The structure completed was 1, 166 feet long, 30 feet wide and cost $10,960.
Q Street was widened during this year, making it a 90-foot thorough- fare, and during 1886 it was extended to the north, and East First Street to the east, so that both streets connected at the northwest corner of the park. During the months of May and June of this year a section of the pier 354 feet long was roofed, to afford protection from the rain and sun.
During the season of 1887 an extension of the flats was granted for park purposes, and steps were taken regarding the addition of Castle Island. The pier had in the meantime proved such an attrac- tion that the commissioners decided that they were justified in taking steps regarding the construction of the iron pier. The matter of estab- lishing an aquarium at the park was brought before the commissioners this year and they voted in favor of it. On July II, a contract was made for the construction of a permanent iron pier extending from the end of the wooden pier.
This work began on September 9, the contract calling for an iron structure of twelve spans of 741 feet, with an option of five extra spans of 308 lineal feet, to be supported by iron columns filled with concrete. The work was continued with but few interruptions, the additional spans being added and a small artificial island constructed at the end as a terminal.
In the meantime the matter of an aquarium had received attention and a large section of the flats was filled in adding much additional territory to the park and constructed in a way that left three large ponds which were to be used in connection with the aquarium. In these it was proposed to place amphibious animals and marine mammalia, including porpoises, seals, walruses and the like. The work on the ponds was not finished until the summer of 1893.
Various improvements were made from time to time. The matter of securing Castle Island for park uses had been constantly urged, and finally May 1, 1890, the United States government granted its use. The matter of constructing a bridge from Marine Park to the island was immediately proposed, but there was considerable delay in the matter. The work was finally begun July 14, 1891, but was not fin- ished until June 2, 1892. The structure cost $13,973.06. The draw spans a navigable channel 50 feet in width. The bridge and Castle Island were first opened to the public July 29, 1892. Electric arc lights were placed along its entire length, old buildings at the island were removed and many other improvements were made.
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
Probably the largest crowd that had assembled at the park up to that time was the throng that was present at the unveiling of the hand- some Farragut Statue, June 28, 1893. The statue occupies a site at the junction of the main boulevard and the park road leading to the entrance opposite Broadway.
During this season all the old buildings, with the exception of the hospital and commander's house, were removed from Castle Island, and during the summer months a large shelter tent occupied the easterly side of the island which was at the disposal of the public. A plank walk was laid from Broadway to the end of the bridge, a much-needed improvement.
Much attention was given to foliage, the laying out of drives, grading of the beaches and similar improvements during the season of 1 894.
MARINE PARK - Looking Toward Broadway. (Farragut Statue in Foreground.)
Another attractive feature was added to the park in 1895, when the boat service between Marine Park and Castle Island was installed. A small landing was constructed on the easterly side of the park, and from here small launches made trips to the island at stated times. Since then the service has increased, and at present launches also run to North End Park and to Squantum, these additional lines having been started in 1899. Another attraction at the park that season was the "floating theatre," which was moored to Castle Island Bridge. The novelty of the thing evidently proved to be its great attraction, for after it had worn off, the attendance greatly decreased, and the theatre was finally towed away.
The construction of the Headhouse began in 1895, and on June 17, 1896, it was opened to the public. In addition to this the new iron pier was also completed in that year and was opened to the public two days after the Headhouse.
The Headhouse is a picturesque building, the style being that of the medieval municipal council houses of German cities, and is a fac-
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
simile of the German government building at the Chicago World's Fair. It is constructed of wood and is two and half stories in height, having double gables on all four sides, the whole being surmounted by a cupola containing a clock, while extending from this is a pinnacle bearing a copper mermaid as a weather vane.
The exterior of the building is composed of plastered panels which depict the traditional and historical tale of Massachusetts Bay, in
MARINE PARK- Beach and North Side Head-House ard Pier.
MARINE PARK. - Head-House and Bathing Brach.
" sgraffito " work, an Italian art, by which, through incising, or scratch- ing, through different layers of varied colored cement, designs in fig- ures and arabesque are produced according to the desired effect.
On either side of the building are long flights of steps leading to promenade platforms which flank the building on either side and lead directly to the pier. Beneath and between these platforms are 500 dressing and shower bath-rooms for bathers which connect directly with the beach, designed for a general public bathing place. Under the promenade are offices for park keepers and other officials.
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
On the ground, or terrazzo floor, of the building itself is the general waiting room, with toilet and retiring rooms for men and women. On the second floor adjacent to the promenades are two large cafes, a cor- ridor and service rooms. On the third floor is a restaurant and kitchen.
Various improvements at the Park have been made since. In 1899 the plank walk running from Broadway to Castle Island Bridge was taken up and replaced with a broad walk of cinders and macadam, with planted sections on either side. Additional seating facilities were provided from time to time and additional shrubbery added to the planted parts of the park.
One of the most recent improvements was the construction of a public landing at the southwest section of the park. It is a staunch structure built upon piling and provided with a deep channel. An artistic building was later constructed on the landing to serve as an office, and when it was finished the landing on the Pleasure Bay side was removed and the park boats have made use of the new landing since that time. Two drinking fountains and a band stand are recent acquisitions.
It is expected that in the near future Castle Island Bridge will give place to a permanent roadway to the island, as has already been pro- posed, an improvement long desired and of inestimable benefit.
The total area of Marine Park, Castle Island, land and flats is 288 acres.
It was the presentation of the South Boston Memorial in 1847, to the City of Boston, that was directly responsible for the laying out of that part of Dorchester Heights, now known as Thomas Park, being named for the Revolutionary hero, Colonel John Thomas, who was in charge of a detachment at that place during the siege and evacuation of Boston by the British in March, 1776.
It was not, however, reserved especially or wholly as a recreation place, but a portion of it was used for the construction of a reservoir, for up to 1849, South Boston depended upon wells and springs for its water supply. The reservoir, therefore, was the principal reason for the reservation of this section. In its construction the advantages it offered for recreative purposes were not overlooked, and when the reservoir was completed its grassy slopes had paths leading to its surface where a carriage drive encircled the reservoir.
The reservoir which was recently removed occupied the easterly side of the park and a public demonstration marked its opening, which occurred November 20, 1849.
Sometime after this the section west of the reservoir was levelled, paths were laid out on its surface and approaches made to it from the street at various places. Its high banks were later seeded and many handsome trees were planted on top and around the base of the enclosure and an iron fence was erected level with the street that encircled the park.
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
It was then given over to the public as a recreation ground and has been devoted to such purpose since. The reservoir was emptied and razed in 1899 to provide a location for a high school, the handsome structure that now occupies the site.
A small granite monument was erected on the westerly section of the grounds but a short distance from the reservoir section in 1877 to commemorate the evacuation of Boston. This was supplanted by a massive marble shaft in 1900 the corner stone being laid by Governor
THOMAS PARK. (On Dorchester Heights. )
Crane on May 25, of that year. Independent of the old reservoir site, Thomas Park contains 190,000 square feet.
Independence Square like Thomas Park owes its being to the South Boston Memorial. This land and much more was kept for the use of the several institutions that were in close proximity to it and it was shown, that some sixty acres were being reserved for these insti- tutions where one or two would suffice. It was also shown that reserving such a great amount of land prevented the continuation of several im- portant streets.
Upon investigation by the city authorities these facts were made known and in 1854, the great stockade that enclosed the territory was removed and later on all the streets that heretofore had ended abrubtly,
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HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.
were continued to the water, the institutions enclosed with sufficient land to answer their purposes, and the large square bounded by East Second Street, N Street, East Broadway and M Street, was set aside for park purposes.
The section reserved for the park soon received attention for after the several streets had been put through, it was found that in order to have the park levelled it would have to be built up some on the East Second Street side and this was done, after which paths were laid out,
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