USA > Massachusetts > Franklin County > Bernardston > History of the town of Bernardston, Franklin county, Massachusetts, 1736-1900, with genealogies > Part 6
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CHURCH STREET LOOKING EAST.
49
FIRST ROADWAYS.
No known plan of these early roads is in existence. In the Massa- chusetts State Archives, Vol. 12, p. I, is this plan protracted Mch. 26, 1795. It would almost appear that this was a State paper prepared with especial reference to the location of the churches, inasmuch as many roads known to have been then laid out are not therein delineated. The votes taken regarding the early roads are here given at length, inasmuch as they tend to show, not only the loca- tion of the roads, but also who were the families in town, and, to a certain extent, the places of their habitation.
Probably the first recorded action on highways was in 1740, when it was ordered that highways be laid out wherever the committee should deem it advisable. The old "King's Highway " was pre- sumably the first road and ran from the Burk Fort east, the river being forded, through a portion of the lot known now as the " Town Farm" to Deacon Sheldon's Fort upon Huckle Hill. Thence a road ran south-east to the Lt. Sheldon Fort. Some of the other ear- lier ones were from Lt. Sheldon's, in the east part of the town, to the sawmill, probably what was called the county road ; a part of the way this nearly concurred with the present Northfield road, one of the exceptions being that it ran around by the place now owned by Mr. George Parmenter. Other roads ran from the county road by the sawmill to Simeon Hall's; from the sawmill to Sg. Allen's ; from Moses Scott's to Deacon Sheldon's; from Samuel Hastings', probably on Huckle Hill, to Dry Brook; from the county road to Amasa Sheldon's ; from Benjamin Green's southward ; from Deer- field to Colrain (which road passed through Fall Town), from or near Major Burk's north as far as Samuel Connable's. The first road to Greenfield ran nearly parallel with the present main road, but further to the east, down by Mr. P. L. Cushman's, and is to-day known as the " Back Road to Greenfield," or "Lamp-black Street."
In 1764 it was voted that a road be laid out from the bridge by the sawmill to Lt. Sheldon's ; from house lot No. 16 down by Moses Scott's house ; that the road from the bridge to Lt. Sheldon's be established ; that the road laid from the county road by the saw- mill to Simeon Hall's be a town road.
Dec. 31, 1765, voted that Moses Scott, Deacon Sheldon, Major
50
VOTES RELATIVE TO HIGHWAYS.
Burk, David Rider, Amasa Sheldon, be a committee for the preser- vation of timber on the several roads in town.
1766. Among the existing roads at this date were those from Moses Scott's to Sgt. John Severances'; Samuel Hastings' to Daniel Slate's ; The country (county ?) road to Amasa Sheldon's ; the saw- mill east to the country road ; the sawmill to Joseph Slate's and Sgt. Allen's ; Deerfield to Colrain; road to the west part of the town; road to Elijah Sheldon's lot, above the Fairweather farm ; from the country road the west side of Fall River to Ichabod Warner's.
1767. Road from James Couch's to Michael Frizzell's lot, No. 73, Ist division, be confirmed ; from the sawmill to Joseph Slate's, and thence toward Sgt. Allen's, be confirmed as far as the " slow at the swamp;" from the south-east corner of Simeon Hall's lot, No. 80, Ist division, up to the Province line.
1769. Road by Simeon Hall's up to Thomas Wooley's and from this road down to Ichabod Warner's house be confirmed.
1770. Road from David Ryder's corner of the garden fence down to ye road that comes from the sawmill ; from the corner of the garden fence west 25 degrees S. 58 rods to Daniel Dexter's lot ; from the north-east corner of Ezekiel Foster's house to the south line of Benjamin Green's land.
1771. Road across Aaron Field's and Thomas Gilley's lot, then across Dry Brook, and so up sd Dry Brook to Samuel Hastings' north lot, then up by west end of said Hastings' lot and the west end of Daniel Slate's lot to Elias Parmenter's lot.
1774. To confirm road up to David Smalley's and so to David Page's land; to confirm the road from Nehemiah Andros's log- house up to his lot, through David Rider and William Fox's land, sd Rider to have $4.00, and wood on road through his land ; con- firm the road to Ichabod Warner's viz., from Simeon Hall's to Prov- ince line ; to Moses Smith's land so as to leave Samuel Ellis's house one half a rod to the west of the road; to build a bridge over Fall River on the road from Major Burk's to the meeting house, to be done out of the highway work, Major Burk, David Rider and Moses Scott to be a committee to build said bridge; voted that all the men that live north of the north-west branch of Fall River shall be
·
51
VOTES RELATIVE TO HIGHWAYS.
allowed to do their quota of highway work towards building a bridge over said branch on these terms: that Hophni Rider will give two days' work ; Ichabod Warner, four days; Simeon Hall, two days ; Jacob Orcutt, one day; Samuel Cunnable, Jr., one day ; David Smalley, two days' work toward building said bridge and if above mentioned work does not finish it, it must ly by till further order. Voted that John Burk, Moses Scott and Remembrance Sheldon be a committee to determine where Benjamin Green, Jr., shall build a house on the sawmill yard, and what he shall give for the land if they think there is room for a house and not incommode the mill yard.
1776. To confirm the road from the slab bridge across Dry Plain to the road west of Samuel Hale's. It comes into said road at the bridge, a little north of Samuel Hale's house.
1777. To confirm the road going by Joshua Wells' house to the Guilford line.
1779. To confirm the road laid from the south line of the town east of Lemuel Robbins' house, and so north to the pole bridge on Dr. Cushman's land.
1786. That a road be laid out from Zebulon Allen's west to Ley- den ; also from Ichabod Warner's to the sawmill yard.
1789. To lay a road across Fall River from the road on the east side to the road on the west side, just north of Daniel Loomis'; to build a bridge across James Couch's brook, where the county ' road is laid.
1803. To discontinue the road from Tute Hollow, so called, by the Casey house to the Gill line.
1811. To discontinue the road from Dry Brook to Deacon Snow's.
1814. Voted to procure five scrapers and that it be left with the surveyors to purchase them.
Prior to the Revolution an act was passed which in some degree anticipated the work of the modern rural clubs and improvement societies, inasmuch as by it all were prohibited from cutting any trees located within the bounds of the highway. Had it not have been for this wise regulation, some of our most attractive drives might, probably would, have been despoiled of much of their nat-
52
BRIDGES.
ural beauty. The improvements on the roads have been continu- ous, and to-day, go where you will about the town, they are found to be in excellent condition, and conceded to be among the best to be found in the county. Winding in and out, following the trend of river and brook, between and over the mountains, prettily wooded in many places, well shaded a greater portion of the way, one needs but a soul in harmony with Nature to deeply appreciate the ever changing panorama with which the eye is constantly greeted on a drive about our beautiful town.
Bridges .- One of the first, if not the first bridge to be built in town, was across Fall River, near or on the site of the present iron structure at the village. In 1740, Caleb Chapin, John Hitchcock and Josiah Scott were chosen to build a bridge " near the sawmill." Later on, in 1744, the committee upon bridge-building was Gershem Hawks, Ebenezer Sheldon, Jr., Moses Scott, Noah Wright, John Burk and Peter Newcomb. Probably the first bridge was built under the direction of one or both of these committees. In the Connable Genealogy, mention is made of three bridges being con- structed across Fall River by Samuel Connable, one of the first set- tlers. The first, built in 1741, was the first in town, the second, in 1750, and a third in 1760, located near the sawmill.
During the period of the Indian wars, and the subsequent com- parative desertion of the town, ruin and decay became apparent on all sides. Upon the dawn of peace in 1760, the settlers returning, devoted their attention to the restoration of order, and Samuel Connable and Moses Scott were chosen to rebuild the bridge, the price agreed upon being 27£ ($90.00.) For this sum they were to pitch the timbers above water mark and take any further precau- tions which would render it more durable. About 1780 it became " evident that further repairs, or possibly a reconstruction of this structure, must be soon forthcoming, and March 3, 1783, it was de- creed that the bridge should be made 12 feet in width between the posts, that it should be " what is called a Hook Bridge and planked with sawed planks for a covering 3 inches thick."
March 7, 1774, it was voted to build a bridge on the road from " Major Burk's to the Meeting House," which has been since known as the " Burk Bridge." Hitherto the river at this point had been forded. Now a substantial iron bridge spans the river.
53
BRIDGES.
In 1800 there is mention made of repairing the old bridge across Fall River near Dr. Ryther's sawmill. In 1774 there was one also to be built across the north-west branch of Fall River upon the site of the one now near the home of Mr. A. C. Brown. The 26th of the December following, it was voted to build a part of the bridge over Fall River, on the Greenfield line, provided that Greenfield will build their part, the building to be done the ensuing summer. Presumably this plan was not then put into execution, from the fact that July 26, 1781 - seven years later - it was voted to " Raise the sum of 4f ios. to pay the master workman for framing this town's part of the bridge at the Iron Works, and to purchase rum for the raising of the Bridge." The iron works here referred to occupied a position near or on the site of E. S. Hurlbert's factory, the territory being upon what was then the boundary line between Bernardston and Greenfield. This bridge was once the scene of what would have, in the majority of cases, proven a serious acci- dent. In April, 1797, as Mr. Consider Cushman, with a cart, yoke of oxen and a horse, was crossing the structure, the sleepers gave way, precipitating Mr. Cushman and his teams into the stream some 15 to 20 feet below, amid the fallen timbers. In an almost miracu- lous manner Mr. C. and his animals escaped unhurt, and his cart was found to be intact. So says Lt. Gov. Cushman, who also adds that Bethan Dickinson was an eye witness of the affair, and that P. L. Cushman, Ist., soon appeared with proffered assistance. The bridge was not immediately repaired, and the next August the re- mainder was swept away by the "August Flood." This flood caused much devastation along the course of the river. Heavy and pro- longed rains quickly raised the waters, converting them, for the time being, into a most turbulent torrent, and so suddenly did this rise occur that in some cases it is said that cattle were surrounded and carried off, while the mills and bridges from the source to the mouth of the river were, almost without exception, swept away. This is the only occasion upon which damage to so great an extent has been wrought by our ordinarily peaceful stream. The bridges were soon rebuilt and about 1870, the wooden bridge across the river at the village was replaced by the present substantial iron one. At the north part of the town, across Newcomb brook, iron has also superseded the wood, and, without doubt, as the older
54
MILLS.
bridges yield to time and decay, the stronger and more durable material will come into even more general use.
Mills .- The proprietors of this township early recognized the advantages to be derived from the water power in their possession, hence we find this note in the record of their second meeting, held October 6, 1736, at the home of Mr. Stebbins at Northampton: "Att ye same Time itt was Voted that the Committee shall take effectual care In Laying Sd Home Lotts out that they preserve and not Lay out any Stream or Place or Places sutuble and sufficient to set any mill or mills upon, but that they may be preferved for ye Good and benefit of ye Proprietes and so be att their disposi- tion."
Further action was taken at a meeting held May 5, 1737, as fol- lows : Messrs. Ichabod Allice, Jonathan Hoit, Samuel Field, Eben- ezer Sheldon and Benjamin Munn were chosen a committee to " Take effectual care there be a saw-mill erected in sd place speed- ily upon ye Falls In Fall River In That Place upon sd River be- tween where ye entervail or Meddow land Is, or Lyeth upon sd River and yt the Man or Men ye committee agree with to Sett up sd Mill Shall have ye sole benefitt of ye.sd streem half a mile up sd River from ye Middle Falls in sd River for ye benefit of ye Proprietors, for a sawmill and a grist mill, and that no man shall erect or sett up any mill or dams; viz. either saw or grist mill be- low ye Mill or Mills the man or men The sd Proprietory committee shall agree with so near his sd mill or mills so as any way to dem- nifie him In ye Improvement of his sd Mills." In October ensu- ing, it was voted to raise the sum of 406, the same to be applied toward the erection of the sawmill, and the above mentioned com- mittee were empowered to agree with Joseph Mitchell, or some other person to undertake the work, the succeeding summer. A grist mill was likewise projected, to cover the cost of which a tax of Ios. a person was imposed. The saw mill was the first to be completed, but at what date there is nothing upon record to show. We may suppose that the committee having the matter in hand executed their commission promptly. That some portion of the work was speedily accomplished is shown by the entry made June 13, 1799, when the statement was made that certain meadow
55
MILLS.
lands were overflowed because of the mill dam having been con- structed ; those whose property was thus inundated were granted the privilege of making an exchange for any undivided lands they might prefer, the said exchange to be made at their own expense. Whether any availed themselves of this opportunity is unknown. This mill was located just south of the present iron bridge, and occupied that position until about 1870. Among the later owners was Job Goodale, who leased the property to his son-in-law, Zebina Newcomb. September 15, 1879, the Newtons of Holyoke bought and shipped away all the mill machinery from this old sawmill, and the building itself was torn down the next month.
At intervals the grist mill project was agitated, but with no defi- nite results until March 6, 1775, when Samuel Connable built a "Corn Mill " upon the north-west branch of Fall River. At a much later date one was put in and run in connection with Mr. Goodale's sawmill.
The second sawmill was built on the Newcomb brook by Captain John Connable, and in the raising of the same he had only the assistance of his daughter Molly, and the "Old White Mare." This location is connected in a most vivid manner with the Indian ter- rors experienced by the older town of Deerfield, inasmuch as near here one of the Deerfield captives-an infant-was most cruelly thrown down into the gorge, thus meeting its death at the hands of its captors, they being en route to Canada. On this brook was a shop owned and operated by Solomon Newcomb and located about a half mile above the Connable mill. Here was made almost all articles for domestic use, from turned woods, such as churns, cheese presses, chairs, &c.
A short distance below the Connable mill stood the gin distil- lery. Into this Ezra Newcomb put gearing and started a saw and shingle mill. He sold to Ralph Cushman, and he, in turn, to George Thompson. The latter sold the gearing to Sheldon Wright and Gaines Green, who, later, transferred it to a mill which they had built on Branch brook, near Galusha Newton's farm. The mill was sold about 1846-8 to Zenas Cutler, who took down the building, moved it to his place, and transformed it into a barn and hop house.
The waters of West Branch turned the mill wheels owned by
4
56
MILLS.
Socrates Sheldon, who finally sold his interests to Oliver and Rug- gles Bagg. Huckle Hill's representative in this industry was John, son of Deacon Daniel Slate, who, about 1840 or 1845, built a saw- mill on Dry Brook; this only had an existence of two or three years. At about the same time, Stephen Gore built another on Burk Flat, which was successively sold to Joseph Cheeny, Col. Aretas Ferry, Henry Park and Lucius M. Weatherhead. It is now owned by a Mr. Welcome and is one of the two still running. George Alexander had a sawmill on the brook north of P. L. Cush- man's fish-pond, the dam being where the present one is.
In the west part of the town, upon Mill brook, Increase Sumner Hale owned and operated a sawmill. As the weight of years bore heavily upon him, his son, Hartly, succeeded to its management and removed it to a position opposite the depot, utilizing steam as motive power, and combining with this a gristmill. Later another change was made, purchasing in 1880 the mill site and power of the mill formerly owned and operated by Chauncey Slate, whose mill had been burned. Here a good water power was available and Mr. Hale steadily increased his business, finally removing his sawmill to this location. These mills were sold from his estate to Chas. Barber, by whom they were operated until destroyed by fire July 22, 1899. Upon this site he has erected a sawmill which is now oper- ated by John Chapin. The grist mill was built on the west side of the road, fitted out with all modern improvements, a large ele- vator built in, the power being transmitted from the river by cables. To the milling business he has added trade in flour, grains and coal.
These mills, in connection with the one now owned by Mr. Wel- come two miles north, are the only ones which check the ceaseless flow of the streams in their oceanward course.
Taverns .- To one inclined to make close inquiry regarding the establishment and ready adaptability of houses of public entertain- ment for different purposes, in former times, many interesting facts are revealed. Not only did they serve to provide accommo- dations for the travelling public, but also as a place for keeping relays of horses upon the various stage routes, as a convenient place of assemblage, at which all the absorbing topics of the day were
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.
TAVERNS.
discussed, and the town, lacking other suitable public buildings, as a place in which to hold their annual meetings. Certainly the old time taverns in this place were used for these very purposes. And who that has read Irving's Rip Van Winkle, does not recall the peaceful scene there depicted -the venerable white-haired, white-bearded old man, sitting calmly smoking beneath the spread- ing branches of the old tree by the village inn, either with the children by his side or else discussing the political situation ? And having read, who is there so lacking in imagination as not to be able to see just such scenes re-enacted under the spreading branches of the fine old trees about the old Chase Tavern at North Bernards- ton, or at the New England House at the village? Trees, noble specimens of their kind, which have been mute witnesses of scenes, peaceful and warlike, joyful and sorrowful! Trees lending to the place a charm of their own and inseparably associated with the places in memory!
As early as 1760, Elijah (or Elisha) Sheldon, kept a tavern near Huckle Hill and this, no doubt, was the first one here. Upon the farm now owned by the Frizzell Bros., and near the site of Burk Fort, Major John Burk kept, in 1763, a tavern, which fact was an- nounced by a shield shaped sign, having painted upon its centre a decanter and glasses, while large letters surrounding this design declared that here was provided " Entertainment for Man and Beast. John Burk." This sign was preserved and by Mr. Richard H. Hoyt presented to the P. V. M. A. of Deerfield, and can now be seen in the Society room. This hotel was a part of the original Burk Fort, it having been removed from its first location and a front built on.
In the house now owned by Mr. Abbott Brown in North Bernard- ston is recognized what was for years known as the "Connable Tav- ern." For many years this house was kept by Mr. Brown's maternal grand-parent, Capt. Jonathan Connable, and was presumably opened to the public about the year 1800. A half mile further north, and the same distance south from the Vermont line, stands the old "Chase Tavern," long used as a post for changing horses upon the Brattleboro stage route. This had a number of owners, among others being a Mr. Root, son of Major Root, Col. Wright of South
.
58
NEW ENGLAND HOUSE.
Deerfield, Rufus Chase and his son Sanford, Sage Newcomb and his son-in-law Ford, and lastly Mr. E. C. Newton. Since about 1882 the house has been closed to the public and is now occupied as a private dwelling. About 1795 Ruel Willard came from Greenfield to live upon his landed estates. He returned to Greenfield, and again in 1805 removed to Bernardston to his farm and tavern stand, where he died May 24, 1806, ae. 54. This was located on or near the place owned by the late Frederic Chapin.
The present hotel, the " New England House " at the village, had its beginning near the opening of the ninteenth century, when it was kept by Major Webster, who sold it to P. L. Cushman, who was the proprietor many years. Among those who succeeded him were Lt. Gov. Cushman, John N. Purple, P. L. Cushman, 2nd, from 1847 to 1850, and Willard Owen. The latter gentleman was born July 10, 1820, died November 29, 1892, and his body brought back to Ber- nardston for burial. For some time the stand was kept by Eli C. Fox, who sold in April, 1864, to Isaac P. Morrison of Brooklyn, N. Y. The October following it was purchased by Mr. John San- derson and Col. Ferry and by them leased in December of that year to William Bascom: Succeeding the last named as lessees were Henry C. Denham and Joseph Scott. The later lessees have been Mr. O. C. Allen, who assumed control in November, 1879, and by whom it was most successfully conducted for about 10 years, and Mr. H. Taintor. About 1888 or 1890, the property was sold to Frederick K. Clough and was leased by him to Mr. Frank Turner. The present owner and proprietor is Mr. R. B. Reed, who came here from Vernon, Vt. He has taken a deal of professional pride in refitting the house throughout with all modern conveniences to be found in large places and the same spirit of improvement has been displayed in the barns and ice houses. The large and rapidly grow- ing number of patrons from surrounding towns bears ample testi- mony to the luxurious cuisine and service there provided. The town is to be congratulated upon having one of the best hotels in Franklin County.
Stages and Railroad .- The first means of conveyance succeeding the primitive method of horse back riding, was by stages, the ad- vent of which was hailed as a marked advancement. The appear-
RAILROAD BRIDGE.
59
STAGES AND RAILROAD.
ance of the stage was the signal for an unwonted activity, and when it is considered that all communication with the outside world came through this avenue, can it prove after all, a source of wonder? In the thirties, the stage line between Greenfield and Brattleboro, passing through Bernardston, was operated by Asher Spencer, a resident of Greenfield. He had what was designated as the " Tele- graph " or fast line, carrying the through New York mail north- ward. On this line it was required that seven miles an hour be covered, no account or allowance being made for inclement weather or the poor condition of the roads. For failure in this direction a forfeiture of $100.00 was exacted. For this service the best of horse flesh was procured and special coaches made in Albany, N. Y., were used. The drivers were only allowed to carry six inside passen- gers and an extra charge was made for travel. The ordinary coach line was running, in addition to the "Telegraph " line and by far the largest part of the travel was done by means of the latter. The usual rates of transportation were about five cents a mile. In sum- mer there were three stages daily each way ; during the winter but two.
This was the manner in which we must imagine our ancestors travelling up to the year 1846. At this date the Connecticut River, now the Boston and Maine, railroad, was opened, passing through Bernardston, and from thence the stage was an institution of the past. This railroad is the only one passing through the place and its excellent service is fully appreciated by its patrons.
Industries .- Bernardston has always been, and probably will be, essentially an agricultural and educational town. Its natural ad- vantages all foretell this. From time to time manufacturing indus- tries have sprung up, suited to the needs of her inhabitants, and this is something traceable in the early history of all pioneer towns -the very demand creates its fulfillment. Towns of much size being remote from each other, and far from Boston, which during the 18th century was the principal market place, the people of nec- essity made for themselves, so far as possible, all articles needful for common or daily use. Thus we see why so many tanneries and shoe shops, scythe-snath and blacksmith shops, saw and grist mills and such like industries had an existence. In the following account
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