USA > Massachusetts > Middlesex County > Somerville > Somerville, past and present : an illustrated historical souvenir commemorative of the twenty-fifth anniversary of the establishment of the city government of Somerville, Massachusetts > Part 8
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City Clerk, Charles E. Gilman ; City Treasurer and Collector, Aaron Sargent; City Solicitor, Selwin Z. Bowman; City Engineer, Charles D.
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CYRUS F. CROSBY. PERSON DAVIS. FRANCIS HOUGHTON.
JOHN G. HALL. HORACE HASKINS. JACOB T. GLINES. AUSTIN BELKNAP. CHARLES S. LINCOLN. ROBERT A. VINAL. CHARLES T. GILMAN.
LAST BOARD OF SELECTMEN OF SOMERVILLE, 1871.
WM. H. FURBER. JACOB T. GLINES. C. E. GILMAN. AARON SARGENT. SELWYN Z. BOWMAN. PERSON DAVIS. DANIEL E. CHASE. CLARK BENNETT. GEO. O. BRASTOW. J. G. HALL. HORACE HASKINS. JOHN R. POOR. The First Board of Mayor and Aldermen, and Officers, 1872.
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Elliot ; City Physician, William W. Dow ; Clerk of Council, Solomon Davis ; City Messenger, Jairus Mann; Chief of Police, Melville C. Parkhurst ; Superintendent of Streets, Franklin Henderson; Chief of Fire Department, James R. Hopkins ; Assessors, John C. Magoun, Sabin M. Smith, Thomas Cunningham ; Superintendent of Schools, Joshua H. Davis.
REAL ESTATE.
The building of horse-railroads and introduction of water, sewers and gas gave a wonderful impetus to real estate transactions, which even the financial depression occurring a few years later failed to check. The erection of Masonic Block in Union square by Thomas Cunningham, Robert A. Vinal, C. S. Lincoln and Philip Eberle was the precursor of im- provements. In 1870 Pythian Block was built, followed soon by Warren Block, Odd Fellows Block, Hill Building, and the block adjacent on Somer- ville avenue, all of which were erected by Ira Hill, who was associated in some of these enterprises with Col. Elijah Walker, Maj. George R. Abbott and Charles E. Lyon. Mr. Hill alone, or with his associates, laid out and built over several tracts of land in the years from 1870 to 1874. Among these were the Warren and Columbus avenue districts, the territory east of Walnut street between Boston street and Highland avenue, including the Grandview, Pleasant and Summit avenue estates, and large tracts in West Somerville on Holland and Elm streets, through which they laid out Wal- lace, Chandler, Winter and other streets. The energy of Mr. Hill in devel- oping real estate has seldom been surpassed in the town or city.
Some sections of the city developed slowly and continuously, as East Somerville, and Spring and Central Hills, which were among the first sec- tions lotted for the market, the latter two by the enterprise of George O. Brastow, who was the pioneer in the development of those sections, fifty years ago. Other parts of the city grew rapidly, as Union, Davis and Gil- man squares and their vicinities.
Among other earlier real estate ventures while Somerville was a town may be mentioned the lotting and building up of the property between Webster avenue and Prospect street, and west of that street, the Oak and Houghton street district, the owners being Francis and Amory Houghton, the projectors of the Glass Works. Another section opened up by Mr. Amory Houghton was the land between Somerville avenue and the Fitch- burg railroad, west of Dane street to Park street. The Dane, Hudson and Vine streets territory, and the Joseph Clark estate on Newton, Clark and other streets were also put on the market before the war.
During the war real estate languished, but revived a few years after, so that the period from 1869 to 1875 saw many old estates laid out and built over. Among these were the Putnam, Prescott and School streets territory, formerly the Jotham Johnson estate; the Vinal avenue, Quincy and Church streets territory, formerly the property of Robert Vinal ; property on Pros- pect Hill, built over and marketed by Maj. Granville W. Daniels; the Newton street, Concord avenue and Springfield street district, owned by
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John O'Brien, and the Clarendon Hill territory by John W. Vinal and others.
Then came another period of business and real estate depression, which lasted till about 1880. The estates that have been laid out and put upon the market since that time are numerous, the larger ones being the Stickney estate on Broadway and School street, the Oliver Tufts property between School and Central streets, the George W. Ireland estate on School and Summer streets, the Hawkins (or Lake) properties on Somerville ave- nue and Washington street ; part of Mrs. M. P. Lowe's estate on Summer street, the R. P. Benton land on Avon and Berkeley streets, the Wyatt (brick-yard) land on Washington street, the Osgood Dane property on Somerville avenue and Granite street, the A. W. Tufts et al. property on Pearl street, the John Runey estate on Cross street, the Wheeler estate ("Ox pasture") in East Somerville, the Harrington and Brine land on Spring Hill, the Russell estate on Elm street, the Charles Robinson prop- erty on Central and Medford streets, the Trull estate on Oxford street, the "Clark and Bennett land " on Central and Gibbens streets, the J. C. Ayer estate on Highland avenue, the Nathan Tufts (Powder House) property, the J. M. Shute estates on Somerville avenue, Central and Cambria streets and Westwood road, the Stearns estate (Polly Swamp) north of Highland avenue, the lands on the northerly slope of Spring Hill, laid out originally by R. H. Conwell, and the adjacent estate of J. D. Prindle. Most of the foregoing have been built up within the last ten or fifteen years, and gener- ally with a class of houses creditable to the builders and the city.
STEAM RAILROADS.
The principal factor in the unprecedented growth of West Somerville was the building of the Lexington and Arlington railroad. The Lexington railroad formerly branched from the Fitchburg not far from Fresh Pond, but in 1870 its route east of Alewife Brook was changed so as to connect with the Lowell railroad at Somerville Junction. Several years later the Massachusetts Central obtained its location over the Lowell and part of this new Lexington branch, which, meanwhile, had been extended to Con- cord. With the exception of the " Mystic river" freight track across the Asylum grounds, these two steam railroads were the only permanent ones built in Somerville since the war.
A railroad branching from the Boston & Maine across the Ten Hills farm, thence to Winchester and beyond was projected and partially graded and afterwards abandoned. It was known as the " Mystic Valley Railroad."
STREET RAILROADS.
An extension of the Broadway tracks over Winter Hill to Medford via Main street was early made. It was, like the others, a side track T-rail road, and was run by the Charlestown & Medford Railroad Company. The selectmen ordered it to the center, but the company neglecting or refusing,
EZRA D. SOUTHER.
IRVING L. RUSSELL.
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its location in Main street was revoked. In 1884 the Middlesex Company reopened this line, the change to the center of the street meanwhile having been made.
In 1881 the Charles River Street Railway was organized, and soon it laid tracks in Summer and Bow streets and through Union square and Webster avenue to Cambridge street, and others in Newton, Springfield and Beacon streets. It was built as an opposition to the Cambridge, whose tracks its charter gave it the right to use from Cambridge to Boston. It was a popular line, but not being a financial success, in 1886 it was consoli- dated with the Cambridge. The same year the Middlesex, which leased or ran several of the other Somerville roads, combined with the Highland (a South Boston line which ran in competition with the Metropolitan), taking the name Boston Consolidated. Meanwhile the Elm street tracks had been extended up Holland street to Broadway.
In 1886 two rival companies for Somerville patronage, the Cambridge and the Consolidated, petitioned for locations in Cross and Medford streets and Highland avenue to Davis square, and in Pearl and Medford streets to Central street. The contest for these locations was vigorous but the Con- solidated won, and by the close of 1887 had laid tracks in most of these streets.
WEST END RAILWAY.
" The West End Street Railway Company" was the outgrowth of the West End Land Company, formed by Mr. Henry M. Whitney and others for the development of real estate along Beacon street in Boston and Brookline by making that thoroughfare a broad boulevard. To ensure success in this enterprise a charter was procured for a "West End Street Railway " over the proposed boulevard location. The opposition to this line by other street railways resulted in the West End Railway acquiring controlling in- terest in all the other roads excepting the Lynn & Boston, and obtaining legislation by which they were all consolidated under the management of the West End, which was finally consummated on November 11, 1887.
In or about 1889 the overhead electric system of propulsion was intro- duced, after a careful examination had been made by Mr. Whitney of its workings in Richmond, Va. It was first applied on the Beacon street and Brookline routes and soon became general. Within a few years the West End road has made many improvements in the Somerville service, among which may be mentioned the increased number of trips, especially on the West Somerville line, the extension of that line to Alewife Brook, and of the Medford street line to Magoun square, the recent opening of the new line from Highland avenue via Medford street and Somerville avenue to Boston, together with improved road-bed, more easy riding cars, and a new and liberal system of transfers.
WIDENING OF SOMERVILLE AVENUE AND BROADWAY.
The most important highway improvements since 1872 have probably been the widening of Somerville avenue, and paving it, and the adjacent
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thoroughfares, and the widening of Broadway. Somerville avenue was formerly fifty feet in width, but in 1873 the County Commissioners laid it out anew seventy-five feet wide from East Cambridge to Union square and seventy feet from Union square to North Cambridge. The lines were so run that only one or two shade trees and very few buildings required re- moval. The avenue, over two miles in length, was rebuilt to its new width in 1874 at a cost for land damages of $86,000, and for construction of about $90,000.
Broadway was widened and straightened on its northerly side in 1875, making it two hundred feet in width opposite the park. This measure met with serious opposition, speculative motives being ascribed to its originators. It was built in 1874 and 1875, and cost about $75,000 for land and construc- tion.
BROADWAY PARK.
With the Broadway widening was associated the laying out and con- struction of the Broadway park : they were mutual enterprises. The park scheme originated with the owners of Convent hill, Messrs. Klous and Lord. It met with fierce opposition, and its effect on local politics was volcanic, resulting, in 1876, in a complete overturn of the city government which in- augurated it, and in the election of an anti-park administration. The feeling against the park was so strong that, after its opponents came into power, it was even proposed to lay it out anew into lots and sell it for building pur- poses.
Most of the ground which was filled over for the park was an old marsh, so soft and deep that, in building the fence around it, the posts were set on piles and a timber structure on piles built to sustain the curbing of the pond, the bottom of which has a double flooring of boards covered with gravel to prevent the paving sinking into the mud.
MILLER'S RIVER.
Previous to 1855, and perhaps for some years after, Miller's River was a comparatively pure stream ; it was the fishing and bathing place for that section of the town. In 1855 Mr. John P. Squire purchased a lot of land on the East Cambridge side of the river, and built his first establishment, its product being one animal daily. At first this caused little or no annoy- ance, but the phenomenal growth of Mr. Squire's business, and the building shortly after of another similar establishment by Mr. Charles H. North, followed later by other concerns, soon changed the Miller's River district into a malodorous and unenviable locality. It was several years, however, before complaints became general. The first reference to this nuisance by the selectmen was in their report of 1869; and in their report of 1870 they say, "Slaughter Houses, Pork and Lard factories, are questions to be con- sidered .... Shall they be erected and maintained on or near our main thoroughfares and in the midst of a crowded population ? .. . Does our town become more attractive, wholesome, or desirable as a place of resort or residence ? " etc.
WALTER C. MENTZER.
Residence of WALTER C. MENTZER, 36 Cherry Street.
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Cambridge meanwhile had taken action in the matter, and in 1872, by the combined efforts of the two cities, an act was obtained, supplemented by others, providing for the abatement of the nuisance by the construction of a trunk sewer through Somerville avenue, and the filling of the Miller's River basin. This work was begun in 1873 and completed in 1874; the sewer, eight feet in diameter inside, being one of the largest ever built in Boston or vicinity.
OTHER EVENTS.
Among the many events, municipal or otherwise, which have occurred since Somerville became a city, may be mentioned the semi-centennial celebration of 1892, described elsewhere, the agitation for annexation of this city to Boston, the movement for a soldiers' memorial building, and the consideration of the subject of more parks and of boulevards.
ANNEXATION.
The question of annexation to Boston has been informally considered and discussed, on several occasions, by the citizens of Somerville, so far, without definite result. In 1893 it received greater attention than ever be- fore. The merging into and becoming an important factor in a great metropolis has, to some, alluring features, and those who favored it worked zealously to accomplish the measure ; but the sentiment of the city has not as yet seemed favorable to its achievement.
PARKS.
The subject of parks and boulevards has often engrossed the attention of the citizens and city government. A movement to preserve that vener- able structure, the Powder House, resulted in its gift to the city with a small tract around it, by the owners, the purchase of more land, and the laying out of the grounds, which were named the " Nathan Tufts Park," in honor of the former owner, whose heirs presented it.
The foundation for another park has been laid by the purchase of the "Wyatt pits " estate near Washington street, which probably will ere long gladden the denizens of that section with its lawns and walks. In 1891 the trustees of the estate of J. C. Ayer offered a tract of land opposite the Highlands station, on the Lexington railroad, for park purposes, but in the unusual agitations and troubles of that year the matter was laid over by the city government and there rests.
In the spring of this year, 1896, another park was proposed on the southerly slope of Prospect Hill to include the revolutionary remains and site of the old " citadel." The suggestion was received with much favor, a public meeting was held, and an association formed to further the project.
No more appropriate spot could be found for a memorial building to commemorate the services and sufferings of the soldiers of two wars, the Revolution and the Rebellion, than this, their old camping-ground.
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TUFrs COLLEGE.
The desirability of a denominational institution of learning had been under discussion for some time among leading Universalists of America ; but the first step taken for its realization was by the Rev. Thomas J. Saw- yer of New York City, now of Somerville.
In the spring of 1847 he wrote to the Rev. Hosea Ballou, 2d, of Med- ford, and the Rev. Thomas Whittemore of Cambridgeport, in relation to it, and soon after issued circulars, calling for a convention in New York on the 18th of May. At this meeting the need of such an institution was fully considered and decided upon, and a board of fifteen trustees elected.
The Rev. Otis A. Skinner was appointed agent to solicit funds, the required amount being one hundred thousand dollars, all of which was subscribed before the close of 1851.
It was at first proposed to locate the College in New York State, in either the Hudson or Mohawk Valleys. Meanwhile Mr. Oliver Dean, of Franklin, Mass., who afterward founded Dean Academy, by offer of liberal endowment, endeavored to secure its location in that town.
It was destined to overlook none of the fair valleys of the Hudson, Mohawk or Charles, but that of the romantic Mystic ; for the liberal offer of Mr. Charles Tufts of Somerville, of twenty acres on Walnut Hill, was ac- cepted as the most desirable place, from its view, surroundings, and prox- imity to a great metropolis. Mr. Tufts' gift of twenty acres was soon increased to one hundred, supplemented by an additional tract of twenty acres from Mr. Timothy Cotting of Medford.
In appreciation of Mr. Tufts' generous gift, the College was given his name. Other liberal donations were also received ; among the most prom- inent givers were Sylvanus Packard, Thomas A. Goddard, and Doctor William J. Walker. Mr. Packard's gifts and bequests amounted to between three and four hundred thousand dollars, and Dr. Walker's to about two hundred thousand.
In 1852 the charter for the college was obtained. It bears the signatures of three historic names : N. P. Banks, Speaker of the House ; Henry Wilson. President of the Senate ; and George S. Boutwell, Governor. The incorpo- rators were B. B. Muzzey, Timothy Cotting, and Richard Frothingham, Jr. At a meeting of the trustees on July 21, 1852, Rev. Thomas J. Sawyer was unanimously elected president, but he declined the office, and the choice then fell on Rev. Hosea Ballou, 2d, who retained the presidency until his death in 1861.
On July 23, 1853, the corner-stone of the first building, " Ballou Hall," was laid. The day was beautiful ; large awnings surmounted with Ameri- can flags were provided for the ladies, a special train was furnished by the Lowell railroad, and between fifteen hundred and two thousand persons were present. Among the exercises was a hymn written by Mrs. N. T. Munroe, a prominent member of the first Universalist Society of Somerville. Three students commenced study in 1854, though the building was not completed and formally opened until August 22, 1855.
TUFTS COLLEGE.
CHARLES H. TAYLOR.
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The attendance upon the opening exercises was large, six hundred or more arriving by special train. A banquet was spread for nine hundred guests, among whom were Mr. and Mrs. Tufts, and hundreds were turned away. The first toast given was to their most honored guest, "Charles Tufts, the venerable founder of Tufts College; may the fruition of his proj- ect gladden his heart through all his earthly journey," to which the com- pany responded by rising and giving cheers. The exercises closed with the singing of " From all that dwell below the skies."
In 1862 Rev. A. A. Miner was inaugurated as the second president and successor of Mr. Ballou, deceased. Dr. Miner held the office twelve years, resigning in December, 1874, and was followed in March, 1875, by Rev. Elmer H. Capen, its present president.
Many other bequests have been made beside the ones mentioned ; those from the State, from P. T. Barnum, and from the estate of the Honorable Charles Robinson being the most important. The founder of this institu- tion was a citizen of Somerville, as is its president and are most of its pro- fessors. Most of its landed possessions are also here, with some of its buildings, its campus and its principal avenues of approach; and thus with Medford, Somerville shares the renown of this " First Universalist College in the World."
Charles Tufts was a descendant of Peter Tufts, who settled in Malden previous to 1638. Mr. Tufts lived on the northerly side of Washington street, west of the Lowell railroad, which his property adjoined ; the house is still standing.
OLD LANDMARKS.
Many mementos of former days still remain. Our hills are yet here, though from most have disappeared all traces of their revolutionary occupa- tion. Until within a few years remains of old forts and breastworks were visible; those on the Central Hill park were dug away in 1878 regardless of protests ; the " Fort " on this park is modern, and was built in 1885. It has no history and is not on the lines of the revolutionary works, although with- in their enclosure. The cannon in it were used in the defenses of Washing- ton during the Civil War. On an estate on the opposite side of Highland avenue old breastworks were still in existence in 1892, where now is an apartment house. There was also an old redoubt on the top of a ledgy knoll near Mystic avenue, commanding a long reach of Mystic River; a few years earlier, a little higher up Winter Hill stood another redoubt, since dug down in excavating the ledge. On the southerly slope of Prospect Hill revolutionary traces still remain, -tradition says they were the old tent-holes of 1775, or perhaps of the Burgoyne prisoners. These are all that are now left in the city.
There are many houses of a century or more ago, some prerevolution- ary, among these Mr. Blaisdell's on Somerville avenue, where Samuel Tufts lived in 1775, and which was later General Greene's headquarters, and the Oliver Tufts house on Sycamore street, the headquarters of General Lee.
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In 1890 the city erected tablets on many historic spots, they were as follows : -
On Abner Blaisdell's house, Somerville avenue : " Headquarters of Brigadier-General Nathaniel Greene, in command of the Rhode Island Troops during siege of Boston. 1775-6."
On the Oliver Tufts house, Sycamore street, now owned by Mrs. Flet- cher : " Headquarters of Major-General Charles Lee, commanding left wing of the American Army during the siege of Boston. 1775-6."
On the stonework of the battery, Central Hill park : "This battery was erected by the city in 1885, and is within the lines of the 'French Redoubt,' built by the Revolutionary Army in 1775, as a part of the besieging lines of Boston. - The guns were donated by Congress, and were in service during the late Civil War."
On Prospect Hill: "On this Hill the Union Flag, with its Thirteen Stripes-the Emblem of the United Colonies- First bade Defiance to an Enemy, January 1, 1776. - Here was the Citadel, the most formidable work in the American Lines during the siege of Boston : June 17, 1775, to March 17, 1776."
On Elm street, corner of Willow avenue : " A sharp fight occurred here, between the Patriots and the British, April 19, 1775. - This marks British Soldiers' graves.'
On Washington street, corner of Dane street : "John Woolrich, Indian trader, built near this place in 1630. - The first white settler on Somerville soil."
At junction Broadway and Main street : " Paul Revere passed over this road, in his midnight ride to Lexington and Concord, April 18, 1775. - Site of the 'Winter Hill Fort,' a stronghold built by the American Forces while besieging Boston, 1775-6."
On Washington street opposite Rossmore street : "On this Hillside James Miller, Minute-man, aged 65, was slain by the British, April 19, 1775. -' I am too old to run.'"
Though required improvements may sometimes sweep away ancient monuments, yet those interested in local history view with regret the often- times needless destruction of landmarks which recall so vividly the story of the past.
Nature and circumstance have given Somerville an admirable location. On the north and west are the classic halls of Tufts and of Harvard ; to the south and east, the metropolis and the heights of Bunker Hill. In the near valley ebbs and flows the silent Mystic. In their midst is Somerville " on her seven hills," each crowned with a historic halo, and from each extends a beautiful and widening landscape, thick with villages and cities, fading among pleasant hills and valleys in the misty distance.
HIS HONOR ALBION A. PERRY.
GEORGE I. VINCENT.
HISTORY OF THE CITY GOVERNMENT.
BY GEORGE I. VINCENT.
CHAPTER XII.
FIRST BOARD OF OFFICERS. - STATISTICS OF POPULATION, VALUATION, ETC. - ABATEMENT OF THE MILLER'S RIVER NUISANCE. - MAYOR FURBER'S ADMINISTRATION. - ERECTION OF NEW POLICE BUILDING. - CONSTRUCTION OF THE BROADWAY PARK. - GREAT SANITARY IMPROVEMENT. - MAYOR BELKNAP'S ADMINISTRATION. - CONSTRUCTION OF LARGE SEWERS. - COMPLETION OF THE PUBLIC PARK. - FIRST CONTRIBUTION TO THE SINKING FUND. - ADMINISTRATION OF MAYOR BRUCE. - RECONSTRUCTION OF BRIDGES. - ADMINISTRATION OF MAYOR CUMMINGS. - IMPROVEMENTS ON CENTRAL HILL. - ERECTION OF NEW BUILDING FOR THE PUBLIC LIBRARY.
SOMERVILLE became incorporated as a city under an act of the legisla- ture, chapter 182 of the Acts of 1871, which was approved by the governor, April 14, and accepted by the voters of the town, April 27, 1871.
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